I am thinking of doing some modifications to a 16x48 jon boat. Are there any must do's or must don'ts I should know about before I get started? I just basically want to make a deck in the front with some compartments underneath, and a deck to cover the back battery area. Any info on what materials work best would be greatly appreciated as well!
I am now working on my third build. From the first two I have learned a alot.
You can use 3/8 or 1/2 plywood with no problem at all.
I also used 2x2 treated pine for my subfloor and it works great.
The added weight of the wood subfloor didn't slow the boat down any.
Here's a few pictures.
In the first two pics you will see a 1/4" aluminum bracket bent over the bench. If you are going to install a pedistal this is a must because the aluminum from the bench is nowhere near strong enough to hold you up.
That looks like the same carpet we put in the bottom of my boat last year....and is that a Kobalt utility knife I see laying there? Shopping at Lowe's were we?
Wayne
QuoteThat looks like the same carpet we put in the bottom of my boat last year....and is that a Kobalt utility knife I see laying there? Shopping at Lowe's were we?
Wayne
lol
Yep. They are about to open a new Lowes less than 2 miles from my house. I'm in big trouble with this next build.
PS. That's Lowes Carpet too.
I have put many decks in my boats. Improving on them each time.
Fist off make it strong enough, but don't make it so heavy it weighs your boat down.
I use wood for floors and sides,( 1/2 inch plywood for floors and the thinnest stuf I can find for the sides) but I use aluminum angle (that I buy at Home Depot, Its only a 1/4 mile from my house. I am in real trouble) I use the angles for the frames, they are stong, very lite, and are easy to work with
One thing I will tell you about, that is overlooked by many, is carpet.
you can buy cheap stuff or spend lots of $$ on it. Just do one thing when you look at carpet, take a lure with you, a heavy one with trebels hooks( Rat-L-Trap works good). Pick your carpet and drop the lure on it. If it sticks and is very hard to get off the carpet. don't get it. just think if you carpet your boat and everytime up drop a lure it gets stuck in the carpet and you have to rip it out. It will drive you crazy, The carpet will not last long., and you will bend a lot of hooks. I made this mistake the first time I made a deck in a boat.
Thanks for the info. How do you connect the wooden frame to the aluminum of the boat? Also, on a boat like that, how do you mount the front trolling motor?
HPBB: For the aluminum angle frame....how do you attach to the boat, weld it?
Thanks Again
I have read that the chemicals in treated lumber react with the aluminum and cause structure problems...
Any one else heard this????
John
MarVaBc
Ho do I attach the Alunium fram to the boat? I use stainless bolts or screws
some I don't attach to the boat. They just sit in their place.
I have also heard this about treated wood
I was told that marine grade treated wood, which is very $$$ will not react with Aluminum, but pressure treated or "wolmanized" ( don't know how to spell that) wood will react.
The wood I use is regular untreated wood. i then coat it with "Tompson Water seal" It will not react to the metal and it wooks great on the wood.
Is that the old arsnic treated lumber or the new new copper stuff?
I am not sure, am trying to find the site I read this on,, will keep you posted.
Either type of PT plywood could cause a reaction when fastened against the metal. This has to do with the "salts" in the preservative. Also PT plywood is usually not as a good a grade = less plys, more knot holes, = less strength per pound. Trust me on this, use a good five or seven ply plywood and coat both sides and the edges with some clear polyurethane or other sealer. T. M. licensed contractor and building inspector
Gene,
Here is the link I was reading
http://www.finishing.com/281/30.shtml
The specifications for pressure-treated lumber have changed. The new ACQ lumber has a high copper content and corrodes fasteners and aluminum that were protected formerly. We are starting to use ceramic coated fasteners. What kind of barrier can be used to protect the aluminum extrusions and aluminum coil from interaction with the ACQ lumber? Will wrapping the lumber with tyvek or some other building wrap be sufficient?
That's some good information TM. I will use poly from now on. That will lower my cost to. The good new about my past builds is I used brackets that seperate the treated lumber from the aluminum hull.
QuoteQuoteThat looks like the same carpet we put in the bottom of my boat last year....and is that a Kobalt utility knife I see laying there? Shopping at Lowe's were we?
Wayne
lol
Yep. They are about to open a new Lowes less than 2 miles from my house. I'm in big trouble with this next build.
PS. That's Lowes Carpet too.
I thought it looked familiar. I have a P/T job at Lowe's in the evenings. Gotta have extra income to pay for all the toys.
Wayne
I got a question for you guys:
How do you cut the plywood to match the contours and angles of the boat?
Use a big sheet of cardboar and make a template then trace it onto the plywood.... best way I have found.
Hello!
Happy New Year!
QuoteI got a question for you guys:How do you cut the plywood to match the contours and angles of the boat?
It's kinda hard to explain but to qualify it. I was raised by an engineer who taught me to build things but forgot to teach me how to explain how I built them.
I find the center line of the boat and run a tight string down it. Then I measure from the string to the edge of the boat every 10 inches and transfer that measurment onto my wood that also has a centerline drawn. Then I connect the marks and start cutting.
The best thing I did on my boat, and I will do it on every build, is to buy a peice of an anti-fatigue runner from Lowes and glue it down under the carpet in the places that I will be standing the most. This has made those long days of fishing very comfortable.
QuoteThe best thing I did on my boat, and I will do it on every build, is to buy a peice of an anti-fatigue runner from Lowes and glue it down under the carpet in the places that I will be standing the most. This has made those long days of fishing very comfortable.
There it is the #1 do
Nice.....thanks for the good advice.
TM is right in MY opnion pt plywood is way overrated, first its the bad cuts of wood and injected with chemicals to NEVER make it rot. I have a Nitro now but I build my first jon and just used nice ab plywood and it is still going strong (my buddy bought it from me). I would suggest trying to find a plywood with as many layers of ply you can find. My local homedepot has 4 ply 1/2" ply that is twice as strong as the typical 3 ply and its around $2 a sheet more. I do belive you can also get a 5 or maybe a 6 ply 1/2 plywood (could be mistaken, but I had a very reliable sorce tell me you could), but you would have to probally have to have them order it for you. Then I would take the addvice and either coat it with a good waterproofer or paint it with a good oilbased paint. I would also suggest using aluminum angle instead of wood if you can swing it. Wood works just fine dont get me wrong but aluminum is very light and lasts forever. Also I love the idea of an antifatige mat below the carpet. Also you will want to use ss screws or rivits with anything in contact with the aluminum.
Also another thing I did with my first boat is coat the entire inside of the boat with heculiner (paint-on bedliner). I did add just alitte weight but really helped seal up the boat and seemed to help dead'in a lot of sound. Plus and maybe its all in my head, but it did seam to stiffen the boat up alittle beacause I did remove the rivited in seats.
Also the old preasure treated lumber (ACQ) did not eat steel or aluminum near as fast as the new pt lumber (ACQ). Acq (the new and only pt now avaliable) lumber is any metal's nightmare. Only thing that will withstand its abuse is either double dipped hot galvinized or stainless steel.
Dave
Don't get stuck in the Home Depot/Lowes rut when shopping for plywood. See if there is a good local lumber company or cabinet makers supply near you. Sometimes you can find a little better grade of plywood in such a place and sometimes it's cheaper than the big box stores. Always look for exterior grade with an odd number of plys, ie 5,7,9 .
QuoteThe best thing I did on my boat, and I will do it on every build, is to buy a peice of an anti-fatigue runner from Lowes and glue it down under the carpet in the places that I will be standing the most. This has made those long days of fishing very comfortable.
where is this located in lowes? and how much does it run?
i need a few of these
thanks
Flooring Department. I work in Hardware at Lowes, so I am not sure of the price.
QuoteQuoteThe best thing I did on my boat, and I will do it on every build, is to buy a peice of an anti-fatigue runner from Lowes and glue it down under the carpet in the places that I will be standing the most. This has made those long days of fishing very comfortable.where is this located in lowes? and how much does it run?
i need a few of these
thanks
Look around the plastic carpet runners. It comes in a black roll. You have them cut it off for you.It is around 5 or 6 bucks a foot.
Do's
1. Set a realistic budget, and stick to it. decide what you have to have, then work on the rest.
2. Make sure you reinforce the pedestal base mount. You're probably fatter than you'll admit.
3. Use the correct gauge of wires.
4. Use S/S fasteners.
5. If you install carpet use Marine carpet for boats.
6. Use glue AND staples (S/S ones) to secure the carpet to wood.
7. Buy the best materials you can get.
8. Use etching primer if you paint. And a good quality primer and paint. Expensive and worth it.
9. Plan your build and try to think ahead so you do things in the proper order. If you want to paint the boat, get the hull prepped, and paint it before you start installing things. Don't ruin new carpet with new paint.
Don't...
1. Not Get help. A fresh set of eyes are great and may spark ideas you didn't think of.
2. Borrow on the experience of others. Save money, time, and stress.
3. Deck to the gunnel on narrow boats. They will tip, you will swim.
4. Forget to make the trailer part of the conversion. The boat spends most of its time on it. Do it right.
5. Forget that you will see every mistake or flaw. If you're a perfectionist, expect to spend a lot of time and money.
I enjoyed converting my boat almost as much as I like fishing from it. I'd do another one if it wouldn't cause my wife to divorce me.
QuoteMY 12'
how long did this process take? what mistakes did you make, and what would you do differently?
thanks
My buddy bought a 14' x 48" Lowe and we would like to deck it. We want to leave the benches in and deck it at that level. Is this to narrow? We plan on adding a short pedestal seat so the CG is important. We fish pretty calm waters.
We both are fairly set on decking it high if at all possible, at the same time I dont want to toss reason out the window. Any and all advice is welcome. If I can't deck it that high, how high can we go. If we have to remove the benches to attain this, can someone run me through the process of patching the holes etc.
You should be able to deck it to the top of the benches no problem at all.... If you are worried about CG then take it out, and both of you stand on top of the benches and cast, If you feel fine doing that, then you will be fine. However, remember, decking will add weight and some stability as it sits in the water.
I don't think thats to narrow nor would decking it that high be a problem. I decked a boat for one of my buddies right below the gunnal. The deck ran the entire length of the boat. It was a little weird at first running the motor and sitting so high (I didn't care for it) but It worked just fine. We fished some pretty nasty water and never once did I ever feel unsafe. I could be way wrong here (not very good at physics) but I wounldnt believe being higher in the boat would make it anymore unstable than sitting down in the boat. Like I said I could be wrong it just seems the weight would be the same, atleast It never seemed to make a difference in any decked boat I've been in. Have fun building a new boat, and don't forget to take progress pictures.
I wouldn't use bed-liner. I like it where your feet rest and where the motors mount but NOT ON THE BOTTOM. Didn't do it's job, added weight and DRAG and didn't last ( we have to drag the boat for a couple feet where we launch. We now have a small portable, wheeled, set up we "roll" it in with now.)
I would have chosen to go with a large 24v motor instead of multiple 55's
I would not have taken so much time to get all the glue off the floor (Orbital sander) had I realized that the floors cover all that (DUH!)
This year I am thinking of making a removable front deck w/ leaning post for when I fish alone. I am still thinking of how to mount a small foot control motor on a front deck that is:
-Securable
-removable
-do-able without changing anything regarding the current set up.
-Very clean looking, I don't want it to look like an "add on" like it will actually be. I want to be able to lift it into place, lock it in and fish.
I can do it, I'm just giving it extra thought before I do.
Good point on standing on the benches and the extra weight adding stability also. I certainly will take lots of pictures. Thanks for all the help.
only problem with a jon boat is u cant put a large outboard on them. But they are cheap, easy to modify and work well for the average bass fisherman
What does a large outboard got to do with catching fish?
FYI: Alweld builds a 28' long x 70 flat bottom Jon boat which is rated for a 200 hp.
I would rather cross the lake in a 30hp rather than a 10hp. But with size comes weight.
QuoteI would rather cross the lake in a 30hp rather than a 10hp. But with size comes weight.
I'd rather be in front of a reliable 10, than a questionable 30. But with reliability comes possible lack of speed.....
QuoteQuoteI would rather cross the lake in a 30hp rather than a 10hp. But with size comes weight.I'd rather be in front of a reliable 10, than a questionable 30. But with reliability comes possible lack of speed.....
If I'm building a jon boat, it's most likely for an electric only lake. I'll take a 101 on the bow. With stealth comes fish ;D
LBH,
I believe Minn Kota makes a mount for bowmounts that alow the motor to be removed from the boat for storage. A friend has one on his boat and it does not look to bad and holds up quite well to daily abuse. He fishes saltwater with his boat.
TD
QuoteLBH,I believe Minn Kota makes a mount for bowmounts that alow the motor to be removed from the boat for storage. A friend has one on his boat and it does not look to bad and holds up quite well to daily abuse. He fishes saltwater with his boat.
TD
Mine comes off too. Just takes a 1/2 inch socket, and wrench. ;D
Thanks guy, but I was talking about the whole front deck being removable
Quoteonly problem with a jon boat is u cant put a large outboard on them. But they are cheap, easy to modify and work well for the average bass fisherman
Well I only have a 6hp I guess that makes me below average bass fisherman.
As some might remember I started on a 1436 flat jon in the beginning of summer but failed to complete it at all do to health issues. In a way Kinda glad I didn't finish it, more I realize I'd rather turn it into a all electric. I would have regreted My idea finish jon gas powered, The gas fumes made me sick and Only two lakes allow gas, the rest are electric, so hassle reasons would've sucked
Nothen better than pulling up-unload and take off fishen
QuoteQuoteonly problem with a jon boat is u cant put a large outboard on them. But they are cheap, easy to modify and work well for the average bass fishermanWell I only have a 6hp I guess that makes me below average bass fisherman.
Shoot, my freshwater boat doesn't even have a gas engine,....I must REALLY suck,lol
I live in Northern Virginia. Can anyone give me an idea of where to buy aluminum angle at the best price? Any other money saving tips would be great. We need to buy some Olive Drab paint this week. Thanks
-Josh
Since I live in FL I couldn't tell you where to go. I know around here i called a few sheetmetal /welding shops and was able to find a place that actually sells metal to the public. Not quite as cheap as going striaght to the dealer but they sell by the ft. I don't need a 20 ft stick of aluminum angle, which will be what you have to buy from the metal supplier.
I did find an online supplier though before i decided to look localy w w w .speedymetals.com/default.aspx
I want to put a deck on top of the seats on my jon boat. its a 14 foot 55 inch wide deep v. is it going to be unstable? also is there any way to attach a transom mount trolling motor to the bow?
thanks
bassmaster6
bassmaster6,
I have heard that 55in is about the minimum width for decking a v-hull, although I can't personally tell you for sure. As for the transom mount troller, Cabela's sells a mount for this. You can probably find it online, if not, let me know and I will get you the specifics when I have them handy.
A question while I am modding my jon.
I am planning on screwing 3/4" plywood to the tops of my bench seats. Will this be enough support for a 13" pedestel like the swivel-eze 3/4" seat posts and bases?
You guys have some great advice in here, I will be working on a LOWE 14' V Hull soon and needed the help of you guys. Thanks and I now my 2yr old son will be happy to see Daddy fixing his(my boys) boat. I will also take many pics. and post also.
This is all good information. I am going to start my winter project in a week or so. Need to work up a plan first to save some time and money in the future I think. Keep the hints, tips, and experience coming!
QuoteA question while I am modding my jon.I am planning on screwing 3/4" plywood to the tops of my bench seats. Will this be enough support for a 13" pedestel like the swivel-eze 3/4" seat posts and bases?
I put plywood on top of my bench seats to attach my seats. I wanted to use 3/4" but used 3 layers of 3/8". It looks as though it will be sturdy enough. So I would think that the 3/4" will be alright to use.
Backpain I had 13" pedestals on my 14 ft Jon in my opinion they were to high was getting a lot of rock side to side. If you work at it you can remove the bushing and cut the post down I did this inch at a time till it was stable for me. That number was 9" after you find the right height all you have to do is put some RTV on the bushing push it in to the post and your good to go.
I've got a 14'42" G3 with a 30 horse. Used 3/4" Ply wood and it weighs the boat down way tooo much the front deck we built is way too heavy after putting the trolling motor on and getting your tackle in. It takes forever for the boat to plain out but it makes an ideal boat for small ponds and lakes that would tear up a big boat.
I'm interested in getting a jon boat, and doing this. What should I look for in buying the boat itself?
QuoteI'm interested in getting a jon boat, and doing this. What should I look for in buying the boat itself?
In my opinion a 42 inch width should be the minimum. Stay within the weight capacity and you should be fine.
I've got an old jon boat I was planning on redoing. It had been repainted at one point but now all the paint is peeling off. What is the best way to remove the paint chemical or a wire brush on an angle grinder? Also if I chose not to repaint it would leaving the aluminum exposed cause any problems? Thanks for the help guys
QuoteI've got an old jon boat I was planning on redoing. It had been repainted at one point but now all the paint is peeling off. What is the best way to remove the paint chemical or a wire brush on an angle grinder? Also if I chose not to repaint it would leaving the aluminum exposed cause any problems? Thanks for the help guys
If it's already peeling, a wire brush on a grinder should make short work of it. Bare Aluminum once exposed to air will start to oxidize immediately and becomes it's own best protection. Don't expect the boat to remain shiny though after you've removed the paint. As it oxidizes, it will turn a grayish color. The paint is probably peeling because the prepwork was never done correctly, or the wrong paint is being used. If you're going to use the wire cup brush and take it down to bare metal, make sure to use a self-etching primer like zinc chromate (or similar) before you apply your paint. Not sure of the forum rules, but there is a great site (who also mentions this site) that is specific to Tin Boats if you want some great ideas on painting a jon with numerous boat modifications.
QuoteI am now working on my third build. From the first two I have learned a alot.You can use 3/8 or 1/2 plywood with no problem at all.
I also used 2x2 treated pine for my subfloor and it works great.
The added weight of the wood subfloor didn't slow the boat down any.
Here's a few pictures.
that is the sweetes jon boat I have ever seen....inspires me to get a jon boat upgrade over my canoe and pimp it out like that... good stuff
QuoteI'm interested in getting a jon boat, and doing this. What should I look for in buying the boat itself?
I look for either an old Bass Tracker or a Fisher. If they have trees growing out of them it's even better.
QuoteI'm interested in getting a jon boat, and doing this. What should I look for in buying the boat itself?
I guess part of that depends on the bodies of water you will predominantly fish, as well as your desired outcome (cosmetic and function) when you are finished. As a general rule, flat bottoms are the most stable but don't do too well in big water, V-Hulls are good in big water, but usually don't offer as much stability if you intend to have a casting deck, and the modified-V is right in between and is my preference. The vast majority of lakes I ever fish are either electric only or have a 10hp restriction. Your budget will have alot to do with what you will be looking at. If I were looking for one, I'd be looking for an all welded, modified v, but would be open to buying a riveted boat too if the price was right (which I did). In either case, I would ask the seller if the boat has any known leaks, and if you happen to see the boat at night and there are no decks, you can take a buddy with a flashlight/spotlight and have him shine the light inside the boat while you are underneath. Don't forget to go over the trailer good too, as replacing wheel's hubs, and tires will usually cost at least $200-$300 dollars. If you're not in a rush, take your time buying one. There are deals to be had right now and most of them are on boats that are fish-ready. Once you get a boat and are ready to start modding it, ask for advice along the way. I've learned so much from others and am thankful I didn't try to pioneer my buildout, as I would have undoubtedly made some bad decisions along the way. Go over the hull carefully and look for any corrosion/holes. Take note of what (if any) accessories that work which come with the boat like seats, pedestals, pumps, lights, graphs, trolling motors etc..because I have found that it's the little things that add up quick in doing one from scratch. The outboard (if offered) will also have a big impact on the value of the purchase. Take into consideration that it's tough to buy just a bare hull and build it out completely and expect someone to be willing to pay you the cost of what it was to build with the amount of "ready to fish" boats on the market for less. I took on the project because I like tinkering and couldn't afford to buy what I wanted all at once, not because I thought I would save money on a boat. Keep an eye on craigslist, and certainly if you drive by a house with a boat next to it or in the back yard that has trees groing in it, there's a good chance you could get a good deal on it. Good Luck!