So we got my brother the inflatable pontoon and it looks great. However, we can only fit one in the trunk and have no vehicles with which to tow or the like.
So I think I'm going to go with a yak - which means I'll need a roof rack for my car.
I'm about 280lb, 6"1'. A 12ft is probably what I will need. A sit on top is my preference. Comfortable seat a must.
So while I've been looking around the $600 Mark, most reviews are saying they're of questionable quality. So, how much should I budget for a good kayak? Not a top of the line, but something I could use on rivers and lakes?
Also, what brands as I'm very new to kayaks in general. Is there anything to stay away from?
What do you wish you knew when you got your first kayak?
Appreciate your help folks.
I don't have first hand experience with the sub $600 retail kayaks, but I've read they're generally fine except for comfort. They usually have awful seats. Generally the higher the seat, the more comfortable it will be.
Fortunately you can generally get "high end" brands close to that price if you buy used. I'm not sure how close this is to your location https://columbus.craigslist.org/boa/6110365703.html. I've heard its very comfortable with a high seat and stable enough to stand on. The width would probably make it a bit slower than a narrow kayak that you can't stand on. I have a narrow kayak, the Wilderness Tarpon 120, and I would trade it in for something wider. Bed fishing would be much easier if I could stand and see 20 feet out...
Its a bit over your budget, but you might be able to negotiate on pricing. Also you avoid tax by buying used. It took me a month of craigslist browsing to finally find my kayak at a really good deal.
Another thing that strongly influences comfort would be the PFD. I went to the store and asked for the "best kayak PFD". They directed me to this:
But it is awful for fishing kayaks because the rear interferes with the seat. Look for either a thin life vest or something with nothing on the lower back like this:
I wouldn't say 600 is my budget, it's just what I figured I could come up with quickly.
That's why I'm asking what I should budget for a good one.
So you think around 850 would be able to net me a good kayak?
What I suggest is for you to spend some time reading all of the previous threads on kayaks. There are hundreds of them on here, get a good consensus of the ones that keep surfacing and what people think of them. I have personally read at least a dozen on more on the topic of Kayaks just in the last few months.
Next I suggest you research what outfitters and big box stores carry kayaks, and who has demo days. Go demo some. Nothing teaches you more about fishing or boating then seat time. Something that I may love may drive you crazy.
Lastly, do some research and see if you can find a fishing guide that offers Kayak fishing trips. I have one here in MD. He supplies the yak, and gear needed to use it and you can fish with your gear or some of his. He offers 4 and 8 hour trips. If I wanted to figure out things that I like and things that I did not then I would try some of these options.
$1500 is a solid bet for a killer boat/paddle/pfd.
Might want to look at the Ascend 12t or the Vibe Sea Ghost 130. Don't forget to factor in paddle cost, Pfd and anything else most people use while kayak fishing like an anchor trolley, a kayak cart etc. There are Facebook groups for Ascend kayak owners and Vibe kayak owners which will provide you a plethora of information regarding those two brands. Also tons of YouTube videos out there. Good luck!
Make sure to include the costs other that the kayak, like paddle, pfd, safety gear (flag, light, whistle etc.), roof rack, and any mods you might want to do (anchor trolley is a basic one that will do a lot of good). I think you can get all that done for under 1000 if you look around. I use a 500 dollar sit in and it does what I need just fine. I've done a bunch of mods to it and I had to get roofracks and I upgraded my paddle so again, definitely under 1000 all in all.
$1,000 is probably the price line for getting something really good. I think you can find what you need for around $800 though but that would be the low end for something comfortable and stable.
Like others have said $1000-$1500 will get you a good setup that you won't want to upgrade after your first outing. What I was looking for when I upgraded my kayak was a stadium style seat, 12ft or longer, a wide enough hull to stand in and a low hull weight so I could carry it if I didn't want to use a cart. A transducer ready hull was a plus but not a requirement.
Also make sure that you are well under the max weight capacity. At 280 I wouldn't consider any kayak that didn't have a max capacity of at least 450lbs. If i were you, the vibe sea ghost 130 would be the kayak I would compare everything to when considering other options. It has a rudder, stadium seat, high weight capacity, rotomolded, a low hull weight for what it offers and it's under $1000
The budget will depend on the right kayak for you IMO. First you need to figure out what you want from one, then find the one that best matches your expectations. Buying used can knock some cash off and sometimes you can find a previous year leftover for a discount.
I differ from some guys in that I wanted a faster kayak VS one stable enough to stand in.
I wanted my yak to get me to spots a couple miles away quick and without wearing myself out. Paddling up a fast flowing river I made a good choice in buying a faster yak. My friends with slower kayaks have a much harder time paddling back upstream to the boat ramp while Im cruising right along. Another advantage is pointing the front of the kayak against the river flow I tend to stay in the same spot longer than the slower kayaks which drift off during a cast and retrieve. I still drift off but not as quick and maintaining my position is a lot easier.
Don't forget to budget in the lightest paddle you can afford if you plan to make long trips or be out for hours.
You're right a comfortable seat is a must. My Tarpon 120 seat starts to irritate me after about 3-4 hours in. My brothers cheap plastic kayak with molded in seat kills my back after every trip to the point where it is sore the entire next day.
I bought a Mustang MIT100 inflatable PFD and am happy with the comfort and reputation for safety.
For roof rack I got the basic Yakima round bar rack with JayLow carrier. Im happy with that system overall even though I feel its overpriced for what you're getting. It has held my yak securely for hundreds of miles at high interstate speeds and its easy to load and unload the yak with the carriers positioned on the side of the car.
Do a lot of reading online to see what people like, and if you can find a place to try a few before you buy. I have let a few people try mine at the boat ramp.
At 210 lbs I found my Tarpon 120 didn't like a lot of heavy gear in with me before it started to ride lower in the water and the performance suffered. Even though the weight rating says it should be fine what they don't tell you is the more weight you load up the lower the yak sits in the water and the more the yak pushes the water instead of cutting. I once put a small 60 lb kid in my yak and he flew around in it because the yak was sitting so much higher and had less weight (momentum) to overcome. I assume a kayak designed to carry more weight should be faster with a heavier person than one with a lower weight rating even if the lower rated kayak is a faster design, but thats only an assumption.
One more thing to consider. Every time I go out in my kayak Im so glad I did a lot of research before buying anything. The kayak is a pleasure to paddle and fish out of. It has a good compromise between stability and speed and has adequate comfort for a few hours. The Werner paddle I bought has a light swing weight and suits my high angle paddling style and is efficient with stiff fiberglass blades that don't flex under power strokes. The roof rack is easy to load/unload and securely holds my yak at any speed and driving conditions. When Im out and the wind is blowing me all over the place causing me to make constant corrections the kayak corrects quickly and easily. I get frustrated using my brothers cheap kayak and cheap heavy plastic paddles for any distance and fighting the wind and current. Choose your gear wisely the first time and you will save money in the long run from not having to spend twice.
Having said that you don't have to go broke getting a good setup. I have paddled a Perception Pescador 12 with a Bending Branches Angler classic paddle and it was nice for the money the guy spent. He caught the kayak on sale for $400 at Academy and bought the paddle used on Craigslist. He had about $520 invested in those two items and I felt it was a phenomenal value for the money spent. I cant say how the seat was over time since I only paddled it for 5 minutes but it wasn't as good as my Tarpon seat, but that could be replaced down the road.
Good luck brother, and tight lines.
The thing I've learned after owning eight or nine kayaks is that EASY is best. A kayak that's easy to store, easy to transport, easy to paddle and easy to sit in for long periods gets used. The same thing is true with paddles. You should spend the $125 or so needed to get a super light paddle with a carbon fiber shaft and nylon blades.
The two kayaks that I still own are easy. My Hurricane Santee 116 Sport weighs weighs only 36 pounds. It's not really a "fishing kayak", but I never think twice about throwing it into the back of my Jeep and going fishing in it. My second kayak is an inflatable Hobie i9s with a Mirage pedal drive. If your brother had gotten one of these, you could have gotten one, too. Both of them would have fit in the trunk. However, neither of these kayaks is inexpensive.
A new fairly inexpensive kayak that just came on the market and looks like it would be easy is the Pelican Catch 120 NXT. While Pelican isn't one of the more prestigious brands, this kayak looks like it's well thought out. The only really significant omission I see is the lack of a molded-in transducer scupper, but you could easily install a through-hull transducer in it. I'd also put keel guards on the lower portions of the double keel. Unlike polyethylene, it's hard to put a good patch on laminated Ram-X. However, I think that the weight-savings of the Ram-X are worth the extra precautions needed.
http://www.pelicansport.com/en/products/kayaks-2017/sit-top-kayak/catch-120nxt-new
On 5/1/2017 at 2:17 AM, CybrSlydr said:I wouldn't say 600 is my budget, it's just what I figured I could come up with quickly.
That's why I'm asking what I should budget for a good one.
So you think around 850 would be able to net me a good kayak?
$850 should land you a nice, previously-used higher end kayak
by Native Watercraft (Slayer, Ultimate), Wilderness Systems (Ride,
ATAK, Commander), Ocean Kayak, Feel Free (Moken, Lure), and
other brands.
If at all possible, try to demo several before plunging into the
kayak fishing world. Comfort is relative to the person helming
the yak and what I/we find "comfortable" may not be what you
find comfortable.
But #1 get a good PFD. I have been using the Bass Pro Ascend
for a number of years and it has done well. It is a bit of a knock
off, but a good knock off. If you buy at a kayak shop, oftentimes
they will offer bundles, or discounts on anything you buy at the
store when you buy the kayak. Many great ones to choose from.
After PFD, you want a good paddle. Touch/feel and ask the folks
in the store what they recommend. Heavy paddles make for tired
arms after a day on the water....
Buying a pre-outfitted, fishing-specific yak is not necessarily the
route to go, either.
Why? Because an engineer made the choices of where the fishing
accoutrements were to go (usually with input from real fishermen).
Again, where they want stuff may not be most practical for you.
So fish a yak for a while and listen to the "hey, I wish this were here
instead of there" voices in your head. That tells you what you'd like.
A non-fishing-specific kayak is usually less expensive, too. I'm not
saying *don't* go that route, though. I'm a tinkerer and care about
where stuff is. If that's not a worry to you, then by all means, ignore
my advice to the contrary
Thanks everyone for their responses - I'm sorry it's taken so long for me to get back on here!
I've been thinking about the kayaks and doing a lot of reading.
I don't think I've got a lot of interest in standing on a kayak. When my brother and I went out on a canoe together (classic aluminum canoe) the thing just twitched and swayed with every movement. I did NOT like that one bit - so staying seated is most likely what I would do.
Seating comfort would then be paramount to me - and those Feel Free with the Gravity seats look incredible - but you can stand in them and that's not something I'm interested in.
That Vibe Sea Ghost looks incredible for the price - but again, standing isn't really something I'm concerned with.
I'd also looked at the Pelican Premium Enforcer 120X but it's only rated for 350lbs and that's a bit close for comfort for someone my size. lol
What times of the year are typically good to look for used kayaks? I assume fall/winter when folks are looking to get rid of ones they just bought and no longer want? Aside from Native, Feel Free, Ocean, Wilderness Systems, Vibe, Pelican, etc. what are other good brands? Feel a bit silly saying, "Aside from those 7, what else?..." lol
Again, thanks for all your help folks!
On 5/16/2017 at 8:58 AM, CybrSlydr said:Thanks everyone for their responses - I'm sorry it's taken so long for me to get back on here!
I've been thinking about the kayaks and doing a lot of reading.
I don't think I've got a lot of interest in standing on a kayak. When my brother and I went out on a canoe together (classic aluminum canoe) the thing just twitched and swayed with every movement. I did NOT like that one bit - so staying seated is most likely what I would do.
Seating comfort would then be paramount to me - and those Feel Free with the Gravity seats look incredible - but you can stand in them and that's not something I'm interested in.
That Vibe Sea Ghost looks incredible for the price - but again, standing isn't really something I'm concerned with.
I'd also looked at the Pelican Premium Enforcer 120X but it's only rated for 350lbs and that's a bit close for comfort for someone my size. lol
What times of the year are typically good to look for used kayaks? I assume fall/winter when folks are looking to get rid of ones they just bought and no longer want? Aside from Native, Feel Free, Ocean, Wilderness Systems, Vibe, Pelican, etc. what are other good brands? Feel a bit silly saying, "Aside from those 7, what else?..." lol
Again, thanks for all your help folks!
I can attest that standing in my Native Ultimate is a much
different experience than standing in my old 16' Grumman
aluminum canoe. On that I put outriggers to give me some
stability. On my Native Ultimate, I don't need outriggers. It
is FAR more stable than was my canoe. Again, the Ultimate
and the Wilderness Systems Commander are hybrids, a cross
between kayak and canoe.
For other brands, look at Bass Pro Ascend yaks. Get decent
reviews, priced low, a bit heavy, but functional and will get
the job done, standing or sitting.
I started with an Ascend 128T that was $649 at the time. It's a great kayak for the money. It's BIG, stable, and has an ALL DAY comfortable seat.
I upgraded to a FeelFree Lure 11.5 a year later. It was $1,100 at the time. Also stable and has an awesome seat.
They're both excellent kayaks but the Lure's fit and finish matches its price over the 128T.
On 5/16/2017 at 8:58 AM, CybrSlydr said:Thanks everyone for their responses - I'm sorry it's taken so long for me to get back on here!
I've been thinking about the kayaks and doing a lot of reading.
I don't think I've got a lot of interest in standing on a kayak. When my brother and I went out on a canoe together (classic aluminum canoe) the thing just twitched and swayed with every movement. I did NOT like that one bit - so staying seated is most likely what I would do.
Seating comfort would then be paramount to me - and those Feel Free with the Gravity seats look incredible - but you can stand in them and that's not something I'm interested in.
That Vibe Sea Ghost looks incredible for the price - but again, standing isn't really something I'm concerned with.
I'd also looked at the Pelican Premium Enforcer 120X but it's only rated for 350lbs and that's a bit close for comfort for someone my size. lol
What times of the year are typically good to look for used kayaks? I assume fall/winter when folks are looking to get rid of ones they just bought and no longer want? Aside from Native, Feel Free, Ocean, Wilderness Systems, Vibe, Pelican, etc. what are other good brands? Feel a bit silly saying, "Aside from those 7, what else?..." lol
Again, thanks for all your help folks!
Make sure not to turn down a kayak just because it's know for being able to stand on. You want a comfortable and stable kayak. Standing is just an added benefit that you can take advantage of or not.
On 5/1/2017 at 2:17 AM, CybrSlydr said:I wouldn't say 600 is my budget, it's just what I figured I could come up with quickly.
That's why I'm asking what I should budget for a good one.
So you think around 850 would be able to net me a good kayak?
You want something you'll be happy with for years. Double your budget, and get some significant seat time in several boats.
Looks like we actually have a local shop that sells Feel Free, Wilderness Systems, Hurricane, etc. kayaks. Marietta Adventure Company.
Think I'll stop by after work and check them out.
On 5/17/2017 at 12:17 AM, CybrSlydr said:Looks like we actually have a local shop that sells Feel Free, Wilderness Systems, Hurricane, etc. kayaks. Marietta Adventure Company.
Think I'll stop by after work and check them out.
Now that's a plan. Demo! Or if they don't have a demo
program sit in each kayak and get the feel, comfort,
lack of comfort, and so forth. I didn't get to demo my
Ultimate, but I did do a lot of sit-in time at the store
which is how I made my decision.
http://www.mariettaadventurecompany.com/rentals
They even do rentals and tours.
Sounds similar to the place near my house I used to teach out of. Get plugged in with them!
You're a big person, I would get something longer than 12'. I wish I would have spent more money on my first yak. I'm obsessed with fishing so I don't mind spending the $$$
Stopped by the store after work and came away very impressed. Spoke with two young ladies who were quite knowledgeable about kayaks - one of them even grew up fishing for trout in the mountains of WV.
So I got a lot of good advice and info from them as well as learned about their rental/shuttle service. They do self-guided trips on some local waterways with a shuttle service so they can bring the boat to you if you can't haul one. All I'd need to do is call ahead and schedule a day to take one out. Pricing looks quite good as well. http://www.mariettaadventurecompany.com/rentals
They also have a 3 month layaway, which I figure I'll utilize once I decide upon a boat. I'd rather pick a boat, PFD and paddle and then pay like... $200 every two weeks until it's paid for than save it up (because saved money for one thing is typically spent on something else... lol).
Now all I need to do is figure out which boats I'm going to demo.
On 5/17/2017 at 7:58 PM, CybrSlydr said:Stopped by the store after work and came away very impressed. Spoke with two young ladies who were quite knowledgeable about kayaks - one of them even grew up fishing for trout in the mountains of WV.
So I got a lot of good advice and info from them as well as learned about their rental/shuttle service. They do self-guided trips on some local waterways with a shuttle service so they can bring the boat to you if you can't haul one. All I'd need to do is call ahead and schedule a day to take one out. Pricing looks quite good as well. http://www.mariettaadventurecompany.com/rentals
They also have a 3 month layaway, which I figure I'll utilize once I decide upon a boat. I'd rather pick a boat, PFD and paddle and then pay like... $200 every two weeks until it's paid for than save it up (because saved money for one thing is typically spent on something else... lol).
Now all I need to do is figure out which boats I'm going to demo.
Excellent! You're definitely on the right path here. Will find
the right yak among their selections.
That's a great plan. Pics of the demo rides!
It looks like the biggest issue I'm going to run into is finding a roof rack for my car.
Keep your eyes peeled on craigslist. Even if it's the wrong model, you may only need to but the risers. Don't waste your money with J-hooks or cradles. Just put some pipe insulation or pool noodles, and strap her in. Takima and Thule are the two best brands.
Why are roof racks so d**n expensive???
I'm looking at nearly $500 for Yakima!!!!
Good God. Do I really want to fish this badly?...
To answer your question: YES - you want to go fishing that badly!
I got a "pro deal" on my Thule. Even with a deep discount, I had sticker shock.
On 5/18/2017 at 12:46 AM, J Francho said:I got a "pro deal" on my Thule. Even with a deep discount, I had sticker shock.
No kidding! I saw $229 and figured, "Well, more than I'd like but it's doable". Then you find out, oh, that's just the BARS. If you want to actually MOUNT the things, you have to buy the clips. But wait - there's more! On top of the clips, you have to buy the base mounts too!!!
Highway freaking robbery. I might just put a couple pieces of foam rubber on my roof and tie it off through the doors...
Pro tip: roll down the windows, and run the straps though them. Ask me how I know how well this works, LMAO.
On 5/18/2017 at 1:22 AM, J Francho said:Pro tip: roll down the windows, and run the straps though them. Ask me how I know how well this works, LMAO.
Is that rather than opening the doors and closing them on top of the straps?
I won't ask how much the window replacement set you back. lol
I did it to a buddy's truck. No windows were harmed, just my ego, lol.
On 5/17/2017 at 11:25 PM, CybrSlydr said:Why are roof racks so d**n expensive???
I'm looking at nearly $500 for Yakima!!!!
I struggled mightily with that question. I've come to accept it, however. I figure that to some degree, we're paying Yakima and Thule for superior engineering and materials. But I suspect a large part of that $500 is for insurance and liability. A lot of risk involved in that sort of consumer product. Fact is, however, that my Thule gear (three cars worth of racks, Hulivator, cross bars, straps, etc.) has performed flawlessly. And lasted extremely well. Goes on easy. Comes off easy. The lock options add even more to the cost...but work better than I imagined.
I have zero worries about equipment loosening...or failing....The peace of mind is worth at least some of that price premium...to me, at least.
I'm going through those pains now! Bought a used Subaru that someone took the crossbars off of. I also found out that "flush" style roof racks are really hard to get crossbars for. It's been a painful learning experience so far and I havent even made a purchase yet.
I'll also say thanks for all the information on kayaks from this post. It created some buzz around some kayak names that I was able to do my own research. I'm now ready to buy (on craigslist), but have to figure out this crossbar fiasco first. Really dont want to buy a kayak and it comes off going down the interstate.
On 5/19/2017 at 9:05 AM, CrispyGlock said:I'm going through those pains now! Bought a used Subaru that someone took the crossbars off of. I also found out that "flush" style roof racks are really hard to get crossbars for. It's been a painful learning experience so far and I havent even made a purchase yet.
I'll also say thanks for all the information on kayaks from this post. It created some buzz around some kayak names that I was able to do my own research. I'm now ready to buy (on craigslist), but have to figure out this crossbar fiasco first. Really dont want to buy a kayak and it comes off going down the interstate.
I'm almost to the point where I'll see if my back seats folded down offer enough room to have the thing sticking out my trunk a reasonable distance and then bungee the thing down.
On 5/20/2017 at 12:48 AM, CybrSlydr said:I'm almost to the point where I'll see if my back seats folded down offer enough room to have the thing sticking out my trunk a reasonable distance and then bungee the thing down.
That's what I do. Just find out what the long load law is in your state. In Connecticut, you must put a red flag of not less than 12 square inches at the end of the load if it projects more than four feet beyond the back of the vehicle. And at night, you need a red light.
My kayak actually doesn't project more than four feet beyond the back of my Jeep, but I put a red flag on it, anyway, because I figure that most cops probably don't know the law. No offense to my cop, buddies intended.
There's a Jackson Big Rig for sale, $1000.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/KayakBassFishing/
I bought the Ocean Kayak Malibu II XL Angler last year through Cabelas. It's 13.5 feet long, and 35 inches wide. It comes with two padded seats and two rod holders because its large enough for two, but seats can be removed to fish solo also. Great Kayak. Only Weighs 75 lbs. I bought the Thule 883 Glide and Set rooftop kayak carrier for it. Works great and no problems transporting it on my Subaru Outback. The Glide and Set even makes it easy to load and unload on my own.
On 5/20/2017 at 1:36 AM, J Francho said:There's a Jackson Big Rig for sale, $1000.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/KayakBassFishing/
That's a LOADED deal!
On 5/20/2017 at 1:33 AM, PECo said:
That's what I do. Just find out what the long load law is in your state. In Connecticut, you must put a red flag of not less than 12 square inches at the end of the load if it projects more than four feet beyond the back of the vehicle. And at night, you need a red light.
My kayak actually doesn't project more than four feet beyond the back of my Jeep, but I put a red flag on it, anyway, because I figure that most cops probably don't know the law. No offense to my cop, buddies intended.
Looking at my car, I'm not sure I could do it.
Not a whole lot of distance from the trunk to the back of the front seat (and I can't put that down since my brother would be sitting in it). I have a feeling it would be sticking out way too far.
A note on the roof rack.
Yes its overpriced, and no its not made with top materials or design. Actually my Yakima J-cradle pads started tearing after 3 months of use and the clips on the rear didn't fit my car like they were supposed to and I had to add some leather spacers to get them to clamp down properly.
Having said that securing the kayak to my car is very easy and makes a big difference after a long, tiring day of fishing. You're already worn out from paddling out, fighting wind, fighting fish, casting all day, and paddling back. I tried ratchet strapping the kayak to my car a couple times and it sucks. It takes what feels like forever to get things situated and secured. Putting a kayak flat on the roof of a car by yourself is a pain. With the roof rack and J-cradle I can throw the kayak in the cradle and have it strapped in less than 5 minutes and its sitting on its side which is how you want the kayak to protect it from oil canning.
I highly discourage anyone from strapping a kayak on a roof rack without proper carriers. That can damage a kayak, especially in the heat.
To save money I bought everything online on sale except the carriers. Amazon had the bars cheaper than anywhere I could find and REI was running a sale on the Q-clips and towers. I skipped the locks which should have been included for the price. My brother has the same rack and bought the locks. The locks can be easily defeated.
So after all the reading, I think I've narrowed my choices to my top three.
In no particular order...
1. FeelFree Lure 11.5 (or 13.5)
2. Wilderness Systems Radar 115
3. Wilderness Systems Ride 115
They all meet weight requirements (at least 400lb) and are appx. the same price ($1300ish).
I think I'm leaning towards the Radar for it's expand-ability: easy to mount fish finder (eventually), potential for a pedal or motor (doubtful due to price...), and a hand-operated rudder lever. It's also rated at 450lbs, so plenty of room to add bits and bobs (and me). It's also 11.5ft, so it's a bit shorter and would be easier to rack on my car. It's also 82lb vs nearly 100 for the others.
I would rate the Ride higher, but it doesn't have the pre-built fish-finder spot. It's also rated at 500lb which is even better. If they made a Ride 115 with the pre-built electronics console, I think that would be my choice.
The Lure 11.5 has from what I've read, the most comfortable seat on the market. I'm just concerned that it also has the lowest capacity rating at 425lb. However, it does have the pre-built electronics pod the Ride doesn't - and I could go with the 13.5 since it's load capacity is higher at 500lb - but it's also 2ft longer and that much harder to rack.
You pretty much hit on three great boats. I've been in them all. I agree, the Radar is the most feature packed. It's a also the most recent design, released this year. The Ride and Lure are 5+ year old designs.
Well, I won't be purchasing one until probably tax season next year, so everyone has time to come out with a new design for 2018.
Glad to see my reasoning hit on a few good boats!
I have the Perception Pescador 12'. It's a decent ride for about $550. Its major drawbacks are the seat and the stability. It's plenty stable enough to sit and fish, but you wouldn't want to stand and fish much. It has a padded seat with a back, but it's decade-old technology. There are better seats available now than there were then. I believe this model would be a decent budget-based kayak that would at least remedy the seat issues.
http://www.basspro.com/Ascend-12T-SitOnTop-Kayak/product/170284/
The Pescador pro looks like a decent tradeoff as well. This is a 10' model, but the weight capacity is pretty high.
http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/perception-pescador-pro-100-fishing-kayak#repChildCatid=3342502
On 5/24/2017 at 10:21 PM, the reel ess said:I have the Perception Pescador 12'. It's a decent ride for about $550. Its major drawbacks are the seat and the stability. It's plenty stable enough to sit and fish, but you wouldn't want to stand and fish much. It has a padded seat with a back, but it's decade-old technology. There are better seats available now than there were then. I believe this model would be a decent budget-based kayak that would at least remedy the seat issues.
http://www.basspro.com/Ascend-12T-SitOnTop-Kayak/product/170284/
The Pescador pro looks like a decent tradeoff as well. This is a 10' model, but the weight capacity is pretty high.
http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/perception-pescador-pro-100-fishing-kayak#repChildCatid=3342502
Thanks for the suggestions - though I'd have to go for something a bit bigger.
I'm 6'1" and about 280lbs, so 325lb capacity just isn't enough for my big butt. I'm looking at Kayaks with a minimum 400lb capacity just for safety sake, higher/drier ride and cargo.
I just bought a Radar 135. Only complaint is that it seems to be designed for giants. No joke, even 6'4" owners have complained about the long reach to their crate/gear in the back. It might be less of an issue for the Radar 115. There's a pretty active facebook group. I watched the comments for a while before deciding to buy it myself. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1395601647122486/
Just trim the seat back on the sliders. Or do you need it forward for better weight distribution?
On 5/25/2017 at 1:33 AM, J Francho said:Just trim the seat back on the sliders. Or do you need it forward for better weight distribution?
I have the seat forward due short legs (~5'8") and pedaling.
I've already found some suggestion on that facebook group, which I'll try to implement
Gotcha. I had a similar issue with the original PBG. The crate sat way back. I guess it didn't bother me all that much.
IMO a Wilderness Systems Ride 135 would be a perfect kayak for you especially if you can find one used.
Trust me, go as long and narrow as you can get away with.
My Tarpon 120 fits fine on my small Japanese car and does not extend beyond the front or back. A Tarpon 160 would still be no problem on my car.
I know a guy that car tops two kayaks on a Miata. I looks hysterical, but completely kosher. He does use bow and stern tie downs. I didn't bother with them on my Maxima with a 14' boat.
They do offer a ride 115 with the electronics console but you will need to either find it used or a left over at a dealer. Look for a ride 115x or max.
The radar I have found the same as above that it's not short guy friendly. At the demo show I took both the 115 and 135 out for a few hours did some fishing and racing against the native guys.
Im 5'8 and had the seat all the way forward maybe .5-.75" left on the track to move up. But like mentioned above you can't reach your crate if stored in the back well area. I moved mine to the area behind the seat and left the well open problem solved but not the way I would like to do it.
Its A great boat other wise it's quick maneuverable tracks great stabil it's just not for short people.
Another thing to consider is if you fish with several rods out in front of you so you can just grab and throw follow ups or you have a search bait on one and another rigged with a jig or something to pick a area apart you won't be able to do this from a radar. Could cut a bullwinkle in half to hold one rod on top of the pedal drive and hold the other in your hand the rest the time but that would be the max.
I was dead set on getting the radar this year but have decided against it. I'll be getting another ATAK this year just in 120 to go with my 140 and then be putting a torqeedo 403 light on it.
On 5/26/2017 at 12:03 AM, clayton86 said:They do offer a ride 115 with the electronics console but you will need to either find it used or a left over at a dealer. Look for a ride 115x or max.
The radar I have found the same as above that it's not short guy friendly. At the demo show I took both the 115 and 135 out for a few hours did some fishing and racing against the native guys.
Im 5'8 and had the seat all the way forward maybe .5-.75" left on the track to move up. But like mentioned above you can't reach your crate if stored in the back well area. I moved mine to the area behind the seat and left the well open problem solved but not the way I would like to do it.
Its A great boat other wise it's quick maneuverable tracks great stabil it's just not for short people.
Another thing to consider is if you fish with several rods out in front of you so you can just grab and throw follow ups or you have a search bait on one and another rigged with a jig or something to pick a area apart you won't be able to do this from a radar. Could cut a bullwinkle in half to hold one rod on top of the pedal drive and hold the other in your hand the rest the time but that would be the max.
I was dead set on getting the radar this year but have decided against it. I'll be getting another ATAK this year just in 120 to go with my 140 and then be putting a torqeedo 403 light on it.
Thanks for the tips!
Currently, I have two rods but I only ever bring one with me. I also share a large tackle box with my brother, so I'd only have one or two trays of lures/baits.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Plano-Molding-Storage-Case-External-Dimensions-18-Length-X-9.5-Width-X-11-Height-Tackle-1-728000/41256795#about-item
So I wouldn't even have a milk crate or anything to bring along. I'm currently a pretty minimalist angler. lol
On 5/26/2017 at 3:48 AM, CybrSlydr said:Thanks for the tips!
Currently, I have two rods but I only ever bring one with me. I also share a large tackle box with my brother, so I'd only have one or two trays of lures/baits.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Plano-Molding-Storage-Case-External-Dimensions-18-Length-X-9.5-Width-X-11-Height-Tackle-1-728000/41256795#about-item
So I wouldn't even have a milk crate or anything to bring along. I'm currently a pretty minimalist angler. lol
I'm sure that will all change lol
I just made some adjustments and now can get to my crate fairly easy or get a new rod. Just a bit longer stretch than my Tarpon 120, but still safe. My old position required me to lean way over to get to it... felt pretty sketchy in the wind or current.
Color me jelly, Mr. Pedal Drive.