Float 'n Fly - folks tried it? 2025
CybrSlydr reply :
With the weather getting cold as well as water temps, I'm thinking of trying the float 'n fly technique.
Anyone have experience with it?
Fishingmickey reply :
I'm curious also!
FM
CybrSlydr reply :
I did read a rather lengthy article on here about the technique, which is what got me interested (after hearing about it on another fishing forum).
roadwarrior reply :
https://www.bassresource.com/fishing/float-n-fly.html
CybrSlydr reply :
Yup! That's the article I read.
Jig Man reply :
I did it for a few years. I caught everything but bass on it so I quit trying.
TnRiver46 reply :
I can't make it work. Berkeley gulp minnow on 1/8 oz head or hair jig without bobber works way better for me. Honestly my catch rates go to almost zero every single time I attach a bobber to my line
WRB reply :
The traditional float n fly uses a fixed 7/8 dia pear shaped bobber and it's a difficult rig to cast using standard bass rods.
My background using Thill slip bobbers with a bobber stop for trout fishing is easily adapted to use for float n fly presentations using Spro Phat Fly with standard length bass rods and works for me.
Tom
CybrSlydr reply :
Yeah, I don't get why the author of that article is so down on slip bobbers. Seems like a natural modification to the original formula.
camman reply :
I’ve used a slip bobber as well and the SPRO phat fly as well. Caught a ton of 8-10” Spots...nothing bigger
CybrSlydr reply :
Is there much difference between using the 1/16 and 1/8? I'd go with 1/8 just because it'll cast better with the bobber.
WRB reply :
You loose action with a slip bobber on the downward wave movement technically but It doesn't seem to be a big factor with the right bobber when sitting still riding waves. Moving the bobber after the cast requires the jig to slide up through the bobber before the bobber moves forward, the jig doesn't stay down at the set bobber depth and that does take more time.
Tom
CybrSlydr reply :
So I've selected 3 of the SPRO 2-packs, two of the Thill slip floats in 7/8" and some bobber stops - anything else I might consider? What about scents? I've read they can help.
Team9nine reply :
On 12/4/2018 at 5:52 AM, CybrSlydr said:Yeah, I don't get why the author of that article is so down on slip bobbers. Seems like a natural modification to the original formula.
He mentioned it in the article, and Tom touched on it. Fixed line for best detection of lift bites, working the jig by working the float (too easy to overwork with a slip float), and guaranteed depth control during the entire retrieve. Not saying it won't work, just not optimal.
WRB reply :
Be careful using scent on hair jigs it can gum up and stick the hair together, you want hair to breath giving it movements.
Tom
Paul Roberts reply :
I have, and it has worked for me, for LM's in ponds. I've only used it -resorted to it- during mid-winter when the water gets really cold (~40F) and catching gets really tough here. Prior to this, with warmer water (up through the 40s), like TnRiver46, I do just fine casting hair jigs and grubs.
For FnF, I use a 9-1/2ft 6wt fly rod, with an UL spinning reel. The length lets me fish a long enough lead below the float. Slip-bobbers can be rigged to work, but my waters are shallow enough the long rod covers it. I'm using braid bc it floats making it easier to mend to the float, which can help keep the jig from skating along bc of surface currents. I use fluorescent yellow braid bc I can easily see what the surface currents are doing. I run a mono/FC 6# (.009) leader about the depth of the water in length.
I tie my own jigs, and haven't yet strayed much further than fine nylon "craft hair".
Any weight jig is fine, it just has to be able to be able to be supported by the float. I use longer bullet or quill-shaped floats that will sit vertical with a matched jig. I like it to sit low in the water, so that the float is sensitive -doesn't take much to take it under. I also know the depths I'm fishing and I try to place the jig above the bottom. That way I'm asking the fish to move up to take the jig, figuring they'll turn to go back down making detection easier. I experiment with depth to see if they'll come up. I usually run my jigs 2 to 3 feet off bottom.
With proper weighting (small spit shot) you can even rig a quill to stand or rise if a fish moves up with the jig. I haven't bothered to do this bc I use the method so infrequently; I just haven't worked things out to that kind of precision. When the water gets that cold, ice-up is imminent so the window for FnF is short here.
CybrSlydr reply :
On 12/4/2018 at 6:17 AM, Team9nine said:He mentioned it in the article, and Tom touched on it. Fixed line for best detection of lift bites, working the jig by working the float (too easy to overwork with a slip float), and guaranteed depth control during the entire retrieve. Not saying it won't work, just not optimal.
I got that, but I didn't think they were as big a deal as he made them out to be. Then again, I've never really tried it, so my experience is nil.
On 12/4/2018 at 6:20 AM, WRB said:Be careful using scent on hair jigs it can gum up and stick the hair together, you want hair to breath giving it movements.
Tom
Do they make like a... solid that you could put on the hook then? Something solid that would slowly dissolve and not gum up the hair?
Team9nine reply :
Never seen any of the hardcore FF guys around here use a slip float. In fact, most still customize their own bobbers by cutting in half and adding weight instead of buying the plastic pear-shaped ones. Try the slip float and see how it goes. Buy a fixed float just to have something to compare to. I'm guessing you'll go fixed in the end if you stick with it long enough and use it on different waters or situations. A lot of control lost with a slip float. I've used Thill floats but always with the rubber collar to peg the line in place, essentially becoming non-slip.
CybrSlydr reply :
On 12/4/2018 at 6:38 AM, Paul Roberts said:I have, and it has worked for me, for LM's in ponds. I've only used it -resorted to it- during mid-winter when the water gets really cold (~40F) and catching gets really tough here. Prior to this, with warmer water (up through the 40s), like TnRiver46, I do just fine casting hair jigs and grubs.
For FnF, I use a 9-1/2ft 6wt fly rod, with an UL spinning reel. The length lets me fish a long enough lead below the float. Slip-bobbers can be rigged to work, but my waters are shallow enough the long rod covers it. I'm using braid bc it floats making it easier to mend to the float, which can help keep the jig from skating along bc of surface currents. I use fluorescent yellow braid bc I can easily see what the surface currents are doing. I run a mono/FC 6# (.009) leader about the depth of the water in length.
I tie my own jigs, and haven't yet strayed much further than fine nylon "craft hair".
Any weight jig is fine, it just has to be able to be able to be supported by the float. I use longer bullet or quill-shaped floats that will sit vertical with a matched jig. I like it to sit low in the water, so that the float is sensitive -doesn't take much to take it under. I also know the depths I'm fishing and I try to place the jig above the bottom. That way I'm asking the fish to move up to take the jig, figuring they'll turn to go back down making detection easier. I experiment with depth to see if they'll come up. I usually run my jigs 2 to 3 feet off bottom.
With proper weighting (small spit shot) you can even rig a quill to stand or rise if a fish moves up with the jig. I haven't bothered to do this bc I use the method so infrequently; I just haven't worked things out to that kind of precision. When the water gets that cold, ice-up is imminent so the window for FnF is short here.
I fish reservoirs, so a slip bobber makes most sense to me - the depth varies a lot at the places I fish (though if there are actually fish there or not is anyone's guess... lol). Since fish are deeper during this part of the year, I could need anything between 10-30ft of leader.
I'm also trying to make this work with the equipment I have - I have a 7'3" MH baitcaster (1/4-1oz) and could repurpose my Deeper rod (a 7ft Pflueger combo rod that came with the reel) for this.
I currently have 10lb InvisX on the baitcaster and 40lb catfishing line on the deeper rod.
Bankbeater reply :
I've used a wacky rigged plastic worm and senkos under a floater before. Light tackle worked best for me, but I couldn't seem to catch anything but dinks.
CybrSlydr reply :
Anyway - aside from the assortment of hair jigs and the bobbers, anything else you fine folk think I should pick up as well?
WRB reply :
The problem FC main creates with bobber is the line sinks between you and the bobber creating a belly in the line killing any subtitle strike detection other then watching the bobber go under. Mono line is the way to with F n F or braid with a FC leader.
The F n F is really a light line (5 lb to 7 lb) presentation where a spinning outfit works good for me.
Tom
CybrSlydr reply :
On 12/4/2018 at 7:45 AM, WRB said:The problem FC main creates with bobber is the line sinks between you and the bobber creating a belly in the line killing any subtitle strike detection other then watching the bobber go under. Mono line is the way to with F n F or braid with a FC leader.
The F n F is really a light line (5 lb to 7 lb) presentation where a spinning outfit works good for me.
Tom
You know, I did notice that when I was fishing. There'd be quite a large bow in the line and it felt pretty heavy on the end of the rod.
I'll look into some mono.
Team9nine reply :
On 12/4/2018 at 7:27 AM, CybrSlydr said:I fish reservoirs, so a slip bobber makes most sense to me - the depth varies a lot at the places I fish (though if there are actually fish there or not is anyone's guess... lol). Since fish are deeper during this part of the year, I could need anything between 10-30ft of leader.
I'm also trying to make this work with the equipment I have - I have a 7'3" MH baitcaster (1/4-1oz) and could repurpose my Deeper rod (a 7ft Pflueger combo rod that came with the reel) for this.
I currently have 10lb InvisX on the baitcaster and 40lb catfishing line on the deeper rod.
You're in trouble if those are your only two options tackle wise. Better off not even trying, but that's just an opinion, obviously. Will be very frustrating trying to fish this on heavier tackle. As Tom mentioned, this is supposed to be a finesse option with light line, almost always spinning gear. Several guys around here use crappie rods (the long 8'-10' models) as an economical alternative rod (often $20-$35). Also, this technique is primarily designed to catch suspended fish, so regardless of how deep your waters are, it's rare to ever have to go much over 12', even in waters like Dale Hollow where you have 125' plus of water depth available. The more active suspended fish are almost always shallower. If you have to go deep, most guys that do that will switch to live shiners on a vertically fished down line - often a split shot rig, but I've seen guys use baitcasting equipment with heavier sinkers for this successfully.
Bluebasser86 reply :
I don't exactly float n' fly, but I catch a lot of bass early each year while trout fishing with micro jigs under a bobber. I caught my biggest this year with a 4.5 pound fish on a 1/80th oz Turner Jones micro jig. I have done a little of the real thing with a Spro Phat Fly though and it does work if you have the patience.
Brad Reid reply :
One of the best primer videos on this technique is given by Matt and Tim. I believe this is similar to what Tom suggests in a post or two above and you can see it here. I haven't watched the video in a while but I recall Matt and Tim use different sorts of bobber stoppers to achieve the same result.
And, if you search their videos, there is another I believe with more details regarding how to rig it up, the specifics.
Looks like a nice technique, as they say in the video, once water temperatures get cold, 50 degrees or colder.
Brad
Matt and Tim on Float N Fly
B-Dozer reply :
Or just go for the real deal, a fly rod.
Once you try it, "you'll" be hooked. ????
Oregon Native reply :
Have done quite a bit of it and it's fun and have caught some toads both out west and here in Tennessee. It fishes a little slower than I like but it is so fun. I actually use a ten foot rod for the fixed float....just like the one I used for steelhead. It's rated 4-8 I believe. Four or six lb leader and a 1/8 or 1/16 home tie. It is fun watching a bobber. I have had better luck and feel like I'm more active just throwing a 1/8 fly on a light spinning rod...counting down and bringing it in slow and waiting for the tick....Do this with eight pound braid and six pound leader usually.
Tight Lines
Paul Roberts reply :
On 12/4/2018 at 7:27 AM, CybrSlydr said:I fish reservoirs, so a slip bobber makes most sense to me - the depth varies a lot at the places I fish (though if there are actually fish there or not is anyone's guess... lol). Since fish are deeper during this part of the year, I could need anything between 10-30ft of leader.
I'm also trying to make this work with the equipment I have - I have a 7'3" MH baitcaster (1/4-1oz) and could repurpose my Deeper rod (a 7ft Pflueger combo rod that came with the reel) for this.
I currently have 10lb InvisX on the baitcaster and 40lb catfishing line on the deeper rod.
I agree with Team9nine that FnF really is a specialized way of fishing. Doesn't mean you can't come up with something that might work, but people end up going to the right stuff, and refining even further as they go. This could be frustrating fishing without the right stuff.
My experience with slip-bobbers is in steelheading. This was done with several types of gear from nearly UL to M casting gear, but all those rods were over 8ft long. Problem is, to feed line through the float after you've casted it, you need to be able to keep line off the water as the surface tension of all that main line laying on the water, will negate the weight of your jig. It'll just hang there under your float. One way to help reduce this issue is to add extra weight, either a heavier jig, or split shot above it. I found that if you add a good #4 split shot a ways up from the bait (depending on rod length, it'll help counter that surface tension. Such stuff makes casting even more of a hassle, hence the specialized equipment.
It's pretty much a finesse method for several reasons:
-Cold water is dense/viscous so thin lines really help, in presentation and detection.
-You may be fishing deep for winter bass so thin lines really help, in presentation and detection.
-Small -even tiny- lures work best in such cold water (See Bluebasser's post above).
I think trying to get by with standard bass gear is like trying to force a square peg into a round hole. If your fish are really shallow, say less than 8ft, and you can deal with trying to cast an ungainly, heavily counter-weighted, slip-float rig, you might catch some fish. Try it. It would also help to fish close to the boat, so you don't have to keep much line off the water. But I think if you decide to actually add this method to your range of versatility, you'll be heading towards the right stuff.
Lots of our fishing can be handled with a range of gear -you don't need specialized, technique-specific gear- but as things get really cold, things get more challenging in terms of presentation and detection. And FnF is meant to deal with the worst case scenario.
TnRiver46 reply :
On 12/4/2018 at 6:54 AM, CybrSlydr said:I got that, but I didn't think they were as big a deal as he made them out to be. Then again, I've never really tried it, so my experience is nil.
Do they make like a... solid that you could put on the hook then? Something solid that would slowly dissolve and not gum up the hair?
Shad wax is what you use to dress a hair jig. Also float and fly can be casted on regular gear from a boat where you can slap the water on the back cast to load the rod. It still helps greatly to have a long spinning rod specially designed for float n fly. No clue how you can cast a fixed float and long leader from the bank . I imagine it would be beyond frustrating.
CybrSlydr reply :
So it sounds like unless I can commit to the whole shebang, I should probably save my money then. Makes sense - especially since this technique is so specialized.
I just wish I didn't have to drive 3 hours to try and catch steelhead during the winter. lol
BrackishBassin reply :
On 12/5/2018 at 1:53 AM, TnRiver46 said:Shad wax is what you use to dress a hair jig. Also float and fly can be casted on regular gear from a boat where you can slap the water on the back cast to load the rod. It still helps greatly to have a long spinning rod specially designed for float n fly. No clue how you can cast a fixed float and long leader from the bank . I imagine it would be beyond frustrating.
Fishing from the bank is where the slip bobbers become essential. Especially if you’re dealing with any sort of trees or brush around you.
BassWhole! reply :
Not float and fly per se, but I do a slip bobber thing with a 6'6" med spinning rod. I'll use hair jigs, but also crappie jigs, and salt water weighted flies (and sometimes minnows). I usually fish 8-12' deep or so. I don't do it a lot, but it usually works well.
related Fishing Tackle topic
© 2025 - fishing.qciss.net. All Rights Reserved.