I have yet to catch a fish on either of mine, one is bigger than the other.
I used to be able to walk the dog, easily -- but now, all it does is "pop" basically? The head lifts up and then just smacks down in a straight line-no matter what I do.
What could the problem be and any suggestions on what to do or what to buy?
Maybe taking on water?
If you want a bait that really walks, get a Spro Bronzeye shad, you won't have any problems walking that thing.
What color do you recommend?
I have the Nasty Shad and like it really well but with regular frogs I prefer black.
Get black and never look back!
On 8/11/2014 at 1:21 PM, Bluebasser86 said:
If you want a bait that really walks, get a Spro Bronzeye shad, you won't have any problems walking that thing.
Also the KLT mouse- walks like a dream with very little effort. One of the better walking and fish-producing hollow bodied baits I've used.
Also OP it really depends on your setup. If you've got a MHXF rod and 30lb braid, different sized frogs and baits will walk better than if you've got a HXF & 55lb on the reel. You are going to have to try different stuff, different "bounce" or cadence and different levels of force with your baits and really learn each of them because they are all different. You may not even have a setup that allows you to walk a frog- too moderate of a rod, thin mono or both and it'll be too soft and the bait will just porpoise like you've described.
So it really depends on a lot of things to be honest. You really haven't given us a ton of information to go with.
6'6" Sojourn Medium Fast with 10# mono
Make sure you're twitching your rod tip in a downward motion as well as making sure the bait gets slack after each twitch to allow the bait to turn. Pad Crashers are just about the easiest walking hollow bodied frog I've found. Another thing you might want to check, is that both legs come out inside the two hooks.
anybody else recommend a spro shad?
On 8/11/2014 at 12:56 PM, The All-Star said:I have yet to catch a fish on either of mine, one is bigger than the other.
I used to be able to walk the dog, easily -- but now, all it does is "pop" basically? The head lifts up and then just smacks down in a straight line-no matter what I do.
What could the problem be and any suggestions on what to do or what to buy?
I don't use pad crashers, but when I see this happen it usually is one of two things. Water is getting into the frog or sometimes some frogs have weight located towards the bottom back and it fell out.
On 8/11/2014 at 11:22 PM, The All-Star said:6'6" Sojourn Medium Fast with 10# mono
There's your problem right there.
You're trying to walk a frog with a setup that is not supposed to be throwing anywhere near that size nor does it have the backbone to set the hook. Most people throwing frogs are AT MINIMUM a MH/Fast or XFast rod and more commonly a Heavy Extra Fast rod and a minimum of 30-40lb braid (more commonly 50-65lb braid!) for it's zero stretch, durability in heavy cover and ability to drive home double hooks as well as bounce a lure like you'll need to make it walk.
You could throw that thing all day and I can pretty much guarantee you'll never set the frog hooks with it even if you do manage to get it to walk somehow. I'd recommend using another topwater bait or getting a heavier combo to handle the big baits like that.
I was able to make it walk when I first bought it, and idk--other baits walk really well with what I use
On 8/12/2014 at 2:38 AM, The All-Star said:anybody else recommend a spro shad?
I prefer the regular spro frog to the shad, I can see it better in the water. The shad sits really low to the water and I can't always tell what it's doing
My Pad Crasher has holes in it from a few toothy critters, and I can't even walk it that great cause of my non dog walking prowess. I porpoise all the time and I'm still getting blow ups.
On 8/12/2014 at 2:38 AM, The All-Star said:anybody else recommend a spro shad?
X 1000!!! Of freakin course I do, it's a great bait. I love the fact that it sits so far down in the water ( practically flat or level with the waters surface) as this gives it a totally different look than any other frog style bait that's out right now. If you can half way walk a frog then you don't need to be able to "tell what it's doing" because trust me it's doing it's thing.
My #1 color is Spooky Shad - it's a stone cold killer.
#2 Wicked Perch
#3 Nasty Shad
#4 Killer Gill
I think with these 4 colors you pretty much have all your bases covered.
If the lure and the equipment you've been using are the same, then I would look at what you may be doing differently. Standing vs. sitting, or a different rod angle can not only change the retrieve, but your view of the slack you need in your line. Not attempting to place the blame on you, but sometimes we fail to look at the operator and assume it has to be the equipment when something changes.
On 8/12/2014 at 3:11 AM, Master Bait said:There's your problem right there.
You're trying to walk a frog with a setup that is not supposed to be throwing anywhere near that size nor does it have the backbone to set the hook. Most people throwing frogs are AT MINIMUM a MH/Fast or XFast rod and more commonly a Heavy Extra Fast rod and a minimum of 30-40lb braid (more commonly 50-65lb braid!) for it's zero stretch, durability in heavy cover and ability to drive home double hooks as well as bounce a lure like you'll need to make it walk.
You could throw that thing all day and I can pretty much guarantee you'll never set the frog hooks with it even if you do manage to get it to walk somehow. I'd recommend using another topwater bait or getting a heavier combo to handle the big baits like that.
Yep. You need 50 pound braid for even your average 1 - 2 pounder in slop or cover, and a heavy action rod, trust me.
On 8/12/2014 at 2:20 PM, iceintheveins said:Yep. You need 50 pound braid for even your average 1 - 2 pounder in slop or cover, and a heavy action rod, trust me.
Nope, not even close. I generally use a MHXF and 30lb braid but that's the absolute minimum I'd use for frogs, jigs and weed cover in general - and even then I mostly use smaller profile frogs. With a Medium/Fast and 10lb mono (biggest thing is the line stretch he's getting out of that though) there is no way you're going to walk that full size frog- and if you can't walk the frog there's no way in aych-eeh-double-hockey-sticks both those hooks are getting sent home on that backbone and line stretch when something does nail it- and beyond even that is the slim to none likelihood that the fish won't utterly obliterate that mono on the first lily pad stem should a miracle occur and a hook find it's way through lip somehow. Sorry for trying to be helpful though, my mistake. I'll keep my common sense to myself next time.
I mean it's a great setup for other treble baits and such, just not for walking frogs and heavy cover. Would you have the guy out there all day wasting his time and money? Use that setup for what it's set up for, and froggin' simply isn't it. The weeds are extremely unforgiving and frogging heavy cover requires consideration of all factors. Trust me, I really do wish there was another way around that haha
haha thanks Master, I appreciate that.
I'm hoping that doesn't stand true for rage toads or zoom horny toads?!
On 8/12/2014 at 11:09 PM, The All-Star said:haha thanks Master, I appreciate that.
I'm hoping that doesn't stand true for rage toads or zoom horny toads?!
Hey anytime, I just don't want you to be wasting your time out there. Even when you have all the right stuff frogging can still be frustrating so every dimension of preparation you take out, it makes it exponentially more difficult on you as an angler to try to make work!
Horny toads and such- it will work slightly better, but the hooksets may still be problematic (especially with double toad hooks and such) and the heavy cover will still absolutely annihilate the line. It's the stretch in your line that will not transfer energy for ideal hooksets, and once they're in there mono in that diameter simply won't handle the cover with any regularity or predictability in a positive sense.
It's not just about getting the bait out there to do its thing, it's about everything that happens once a fish hits it, especially with real weed cover in the equation. In this case I'd have to say I would not throw anything at or over heavy cover or pads in general with 10lb mono since my trust level in being able to land the fish I may hook would be very low. If you want to throw horny toads in open water, that may work but again hook sets may not happen the way you'd like because of blank flex and line stretch. I'd really recommend a more stout rod and braid for zero stretch and increased durability in presentations like that. It's not that they will *never* work, but that by not taking all factors into account, you reduce your chances of boating that fish you really want to catch.
I personally use braid for even my light finesse baits and t-rigs since you feel a lot more and the hooksets are far more consistently good. I'd keep mono for treble baits and vibrating cranks, etc where the line stretch is desirable and would honestly not try to use it for heavy cover presentations at all where it is a massive liability.
I hope that helped and was not too babbly. Sometimes I over complicate when I try to explain myself.
I disagree with many people suggesting a heavy rod. I have caught plenty of fish on medium with #30 braid. Would a heavy rod help in some situations? Probably but not needed.
On 8/12/2014 at 3:11 AM, Master Bait said:There's your problem right there.
You're trying to walk a frog with a setup that is not supposed to be throwing anywhere near that size nor does it have the backbone to set the hook. Most people throwing frogs are AT MINIMUM a MH/Fast or XFast rod and more commonly a Heavy Extra Fast rod and a minimum of 30-40lb braid (more commonly 50-65lb braid!) for it's zero stretch, durability in heavy cover and ability to drive home double hooks as well as bounce a lure like you'll need to make it walk.
You could throw that thing all day and I can pretty much guarantee you'll never set the frog hooks with it even if you do manage to get it to walk somehow. I'd recommend using another topwater bait or getting a heavier combo to handle the big baits like that.
x2 , if it's going to be a dedicated frogging rod, heavy F or XF( i prefer fast vs extra fast but either will work well ) with at least 40lb braid , personally 50-65lb even better. that would be your best bet , a 6'6 medium rod with 10lb mono is really not going make your frogging a very enjoyable experience. frogging is one of those techniques you need the right equipment and i'm not from the belief that you need a different rod for every different type of bait but frogs aint one of them
On 6/22/2015 at 9:12 AM, BucketMouth15 said:I disagree with many people suggesting a heavy rod. I have caught plenty of fish on medium with #30 braid. Would a heavy rod help in some situations? Probably but not needed.
I can't imagine fishing most of the stuff I fish with frogs on a medium rod. How the heck do you get them back-boned out of crap? I'm not saying you need a Heavy, but a MH should be minimum if you fish in cover at least. I wouldn't even throw one in open water on a medium.
I'll jump on the band wagon here, Heavy fast with 65lb braid, and a relatively fast reel. I will say though, because I'm not one either that thinks you ned a rod for every single technique, but for frogging, it just makes it easier, and I do use this rod double duty as a punching outfit.
Its the "porpoise" action, and it can work. Im not big into my spro shad. Its just kinda subtle.
Mine was working fine today
On 6/24/2015 at 2:53 PM, Bluebasser86 said:Mine was working fine today
Hey what's that Garmin bracelet you have on your wrist? Some of the new products they're coming out with are unbelievable.
On 6/24/2015 at 6:48 PM, massrob said:Hey what's that Garmin bracelet you have on your wrist? Some of the new products they're coming out with are unbelievable.
It's a remote for my Virb Elite. I can turn it on, start/stop recording, and take pictures by pushing a button on my wrist instead of on the camera.
No braid stretches. Those who say you need 50# braid min don't realize the 20# braid won't stretch. But a stiff rod will help.
I broke down last night and bought a Pad Crasher in each size and some 50# Power Pro to go with it. I'm going to dedicate a rod to it.
I don't understand this fascination with making hollow body frogs walk the dog. I don't know where you guys throw yours, but I throw mine in the absolute muck and I sure as heck ain't worried about making it do tricks. I HATE the action of the Scumfrog dogwalker they have out now. If I'm walking, it's in open water with something that rattles and makes a ton of noise. Do you really throw hollow bodies in open water?
On 6/25/2015 at 5:04 AM, Jaderose said:I don't understand this fascination with making hollow body frogs walk the dog. I don't know where you guys throw yours, but I throw mine in the absolute muck and I sure as heck ain't worried about making it do tricks. I HATE the action of the Scumfrog dogwalker they have out now. If I'm walking, it's in open water with something that rattles and makes a ton of noise. Do you really throw hollow bodies in open water?
Yes, I walk through boat docks that have the problems of floating sparse weeds, thr frog skips well, also sometimes around blue gill beds walk it almost in spot and wait for a biggen thinking it's a wounded gill....
On 6/25/2015 at 1:06 AM, the reel ess said:No braid stretches. Those who say you need 50# braid min don't realize the 20# braid won't stretch. But a stiff rod will help.
I broke down last night and bought a Pad Crasher in each size and some 50# Power Pro to go with it. I'm going to dedicate a rod to it.
20# test braid is too thin for baitcasters, it will dig into itself often. would probably work for a newbie on a heavier spinning setup.
On 6/25/2015 at 1:06 AM, the reel ess said:No braid stretches. Those who say you need 50# braid min don't realize the 20# braid won't stretch. But a stiff rod will help.
I broke down last night and bought a Pad Crasher in each size and some 50# Power Pro to go with it. I'm going to dedicate a rod to it.
20# braid is very thin though and has a tendency to dig into itself worse than a heavier braid. Plus it takes more to fill the spool than a heavier braid. It's more of a performance issue for me. I don't know anyone who thinks lighter braid stretches? I use braid down to 10# on my spinning gear for the simple fact that it doesn't stretch and I can get better hooksets with light tackle.
On 6/25/2015 at 5:04 AM, Jaderose said:I don't understand this fascination with making hollow body frogs walk the dog. I don't know where you guys throw yours, but I throw mine in the absolute muck and I sure as heck ain't worried about making it do tricks. I HATE the action of the Scumfrog dogwalker they have out now. If I'm walking, it's in open water with something that rattles and makes a ton of noise. Do you really throw hollow bodies in open water?
It's not so much straight in open water, but most of the grass I fish is just within the first few feet of the shoreline. So when I clear those weeds I'll walk the bait slowly right at the edge of the grass, then quickly the rest of the way to the boat. Being able to walk a bait in holes in the grass is a big bonus to because I can impart action on the bait without moving it forward very far. I had them hit the bait as I was walking it just past the weedlines a couple times on Tuesday.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCnI8jFuAEE