What line are you guys using for the most part. I dont have time to order anything, as I plan to go fishing this weekend...and will pick stuff up tomorrow if now today. Most likely at my local Academy, Walmart, local Chucks Bait & Tackle. Just need advice on a good fluro carbon...ive only used like three;
Viscious....low down was knot strength wasnt to great.
Berkley Vanish Flurocarbon....that stuff sucks...
Seaguar Invizx too much stretch...and I noticed a decrease in weakness of line after fishing it in reallly muddy water.
What would you guys suggest
For flouro, I liked berkley 100%. Its pretty good. Theres alot better I'm sure.
I just use yozuri hybrid/ultrasoft now. .... and PPbraid.
If you're in a rush, berkley big game is a good mono. So is tripplefish camo if they have it.
My lines ive been using lately are
Sufix performance braid
Pline floroclear
Pline cxx
maxima ultragreen mono
yozuri hybrid
All pretty affordable and great lines. My flouro recommendation would be sunline sniper.
Guess it all depends on what's available at those stores you mentioned.
I don't have a lot of experience outside of XPS Fluoro (pretty good); Vanish - for leader material only, if I'm desperate (never); Seaguar Red Label (meh, not bad, not great, sufficient), Vicious - returned it....
The only way I use fluoro, mono, or copoly these days is as a leader.
But to be honest, my first choice would be either P-Line Floroclear (fluoro-coated copoly), or Yo-Zuri Hybrid again, as a leader-only. The only fluoro I'm using is XPS.
I'm using 30lb regular yellow Power Pro with a 12lb Berkley 100% Fluoro leader where necessary.
If we're talking fluro and you don't like InvisX, try Seaguar AbrasX or Sniper Pro.
If you stick with Sunline or Sufix you should be good to go.
In this order:
Tatsu
InvisX
i used sufix 832 and Slick8
also use Seaguar Tatsu Fluoro
I dont ever touch mono anymore
Currently I'm using:
8lb Berkley Trilene mono
20lb Spiderwire Stealth braid
40lb Power Pro braid
Sniper (US and JDM)
Shooter
Tatsu
Toray Polyamide Plus
Defier and Defier Armilo
Rarely use anything else. Sniper is far and away the best value of the bunch.
I bought some Sniper...still need to decide one a braid thinking i may with suffix or powerpro
I use fluoroclear and sufix fluoro for leaders on 832 braid
Yo-zuri hybrid, 10#
Silver Thread, 10#
Izorline Platinum, 12#
Izorline Platinum, 10#
Sunline FC Sniper, 12#
Seagaur Invisix, 12#
Seagaur Red Label, 6#
Seagaur Smackdown, 40#
Power Pro, 65#
P-Line CCX, 17#
I really have no loyalty. Some I like better than others, but I just buy whatever is on sale when I am buying line.
If you're going to Academy and don't want to spend a lot of money, try the Sunline Super in the blue box. It's by far the best budget friendly fluoro I've used.
I use Tatsu and Sunline Sniper on most of my reels. Tatsu is the better of the 2 but it costs a lot more.
If I'm not using braid I like suffix siege
For braid I like power pro and 832.
I used to use straight fluorocarbon on everything but recently I've switched to suffix 832 with a p-line shinsei leader ,been loving it great braid & line.
Shocked no one has mentioned Gamma fluorocarbon, stuff is absolutely incredible. I have used only Sunline Sniper and Gamma for a long while now, both are great, although doubtful they sell either at your local shops...
Sufix 832 & P-Line CXX.
I try to keep things simple. Out of all the fluoros I've tried over the years I've settled on Sniper. To me it offers the best performance vs cost.
Power pro = braid
Sniper = fluorocarbon
Yozuri = copolymer
6# Nanofil
8# PP
10#PP
20#PP
10# PPS8S
15# PPS8S
20# PPS8S
20# Sufix 832
40# Trilene Pro braid
10# Sniper FC
12# Sniper FC
30lb power pro
12lb big game
P - line 100% fluoro.
Yo-Zuri.
Yo Zuri Hybrid and Power Pro 40 lb braid.
Seagur Invizix 12#
Silver Thread AN40 8#
Power Pro 30# with an 8# fluoro leader
Suffix 832 40#
Power Pro SS 50# I got this for free the other day so I spooled it up. I am not sure about it. I think I like normal PP better.
Izorline Platinum 15#
Yo-Zuri Hybrid 15#
Yo-Zuri Hybrid 12#
Yo-Zuri Hybrid 30# !!! Bought it on accident and just put it on swimbait reel to try it.
Suffix Seige 20#
Suffix Elite 8#
P-Line CXX 20#
Power Pro 20# and 30#
I think that might be it. I am probably forgetting something.
Really I would like to just change every non braid reel to CXX of different sizes. It has great sensitivity and very little stretch. They memory can get pretty crazy though but that is the price you pay for such a great line. I need to just start buying the 3k spools so I can respool all the time
All my spinning reels and one baitcaster have Sufix Elite mono except for one or two that have Stren mono, all in either clear, lo-vis green, hi-vis yellow, and one in hi-vis clear blue. I had fluorocarbon on my new stradic but after a few weeks I ripped it off the reel and put on Sufix Elite mono. I'm into kayak and bank fishing and I want all my reels and line to be multi purpose and I feel mono is the ultimate multi lure line out there. Anyway, I really love that Sufix Elite mono.
McCoy Mean Green - Copolymer
Regular PP - Braid for punching, flipping
Sunline FC Sniper - Fluoro
Old school basser...
Spooled up some Sunline Defier Armillo and used it for a full day. Hands down the best non fluorocarbon/braided line I've ever used. Casts and handles like an absolute dream. Not to stretchy, and the dark smoke color is super nice. Beyond impressed.
Yo-Zuri. Until it proves me wrong. I decided this year that hybrid is all I need....for now. I spent some time with P-Line...mainly because the rebates earlier this year made it nearly free. It has been pretty good, but not quite as good as Yo-Zuri. P-Line seems to have a little more memory and slightly more prone to kinking/breaking on the reel. All in all, however, I am very comfortable simplifying my line inventory.
I use mostly 15lb inviz x.
I'm pretty sure I know the problem, but can someone else chime in on this:
I have some Berkley 10# Fluoro on my spinner/swim rod. (I know some use heavier around structure, but I fish it open water most of the time). Anyways, I tied a palomar knot and it broke literally every time I pulled tight. I spit on it, etc. Still snapped. I finally got it tied right (or so I thought) and my first hook set, I snapped the line. What gives?! Is it bad line? Does line go bad over the course of one summer (I don't use it often, maybe once a week if that). I've noticed that I have problems w/ the same line whenever I tie an improved cinch knot too. All my other lines (Stren 17# mono and Seagar 20# fluoro) work just fine w/ the same knots. Should I dump the 10# and get something else? Or am I doing something completely wrong when I tie the knots?
Braid--Power Pro
Floro--Invisex on B/C, Tatsu on Spinning
Co Poly--Yo Zuri
Mike
I've been using McCoy xtra clear. My favorite overall line atm. Tremendous value. A more supple yozuri hybrid (another great line.)
On 9/9/2014 at 9:39 PM, BassOnKlinger said:I'm pretty sure I know the problem, but can someone else chime in on this:
I have some Berkley 10# Fluoro on my spinner/swim rod. (I know some use heavier around structure, but I fish it open water most of the time). Anyways, I tied a palomar knot and it broke literally every time I pulled tight. I spit on it, etc. Still snapped. I finally got it tied right (or so I thought) and my first hook set, I snapped the line. What gives?! Is it bad line? Does line go bad over the course of one summer (I don't use it often, maybe once a week if that). I've noticed that I have problems w/ the same line whenever I tie an improved cinch knot too. All my other lines (Stren 17# mono and Seagar 20# fluoro) work just fine w/ the same knots. Should I dump the 10# and get something else? Or am I doing something completely wrong when I tie the knots?
I don't think you can really use a palomar on fluoro. It crosses it self all up and makes the knot break. I know sdj is very good for fluoro and I am sure improved clinch would work also.
On 9/9/2014 at 9:39 PM, BassOnKlinger said:I'm pretty sure I know the problem, but can someone else chime in on this:
I have some Berkley 10# Fluoro on my spinner/swim rod. (I know some use heavier around structure, but I fish it open water most of the time). Anyways, I tied a palomar knot and it broke literally every time I pulled tight. I spit on it, etc. Still snapped. I finally got it tied right (or so I thought) and my first hook set, I snapped the line. What gives?! Is it bad line? Does line go bad over the course of one summer (I don't use it often, maybe once a week if that). I've noticed that I have problems w/ the same line whenever I tie an improved cinch knot too. All my other lines (Stren 17# mono and Seagar 20# fluoro) work just fine w/ the same knots. Should I dump the 10# and get something else? Or am I doing something completely wrong when I tie the knots?
When you tie it and cinch it down, does the tag end or main line look kind of like a curly cue? If it does there's too much heat in the knot meaning your cinching it down to fast and/or it's not lubricated enough. Honestly though, it sounds like you may have just got a bad spool of it as even a poorly tied palomar should give you more strength than that.
On 9/11/2014 at 7:42 AM, hatrix said:I don't think you can really use a palomar on fluoro. It crosses it self all up and makes the knot break. I know sdj is very good for fluoro and I am sure improved clinch would work also.
You can successfully tie a palomar knot with fluoro. I do all the time and haven't had any issues with it. I use all the way down to 6lb test too and haven't had an issue with break-offs.
In response to OP:
I keep it simple.
Fluorocarbon = Trilene 100% for baitcasters 100% XL for spinning
Mono = Trilene XT for baitcasters and XL for spinning
Braid = haven't settled on one yet