Stock Vs Clean Reel Video 2024
rippin-lips reply :
I've seen a few posts about aftermarket bearings,new reels not casting well ect. A properly cleaned and lubed reel will give you good gains alone. I took this last minute today after servicing my reels. Stock daiwa lexa 100 vs the same reel after a complete tear down and cleaning. Adding grease to the gears and moving parts. Flushing and re oiling all the bearing and a drop or 2 to the worm gear. Sorry if this is in the wrong place. Also I don't do this for a living so I'm sure someone like DVT or Trey could get you even more out of your reel with their services. This is also a $90-100 reel which I figured would be a better comparison then other higher end Daiwas I have.
http://youtu.be/J3dgpoXMjgk
MacP reply :
Dude, are you me?
My wife disagrees, but I think your voice sounds like mine. Maybe, the voice I hear in my head at least.
Thanks for the video. I think it's impressive how well reels can work with just a simple cleaning. With some fine sand paper, good grease and good oil and 10 minutes to spare, you can make nearly any stock reel perform better!
rippin-lips reply :
On 12/11/2013 at 12:12 PM, MacP said:Dude, are you me?
My wife disagrees, but I think your voice sounds like mine. Maybe, the voice I hear in my head at least.
Thanks for the video. I think it's impressive how well reels can work with just a simple cleaning. With some fine sand paper, good grease and good oil and 10 minutes to spare, you can make nearly any stock reel perform better!
Haha as far as I know I'm me. In my head my voice sounds different then what I hear on recordings. I haven't tried sanding on anything because I don't wanna screw it up. Yeah I just use reel butter and lightning oil. This reel doesn't have a bearing supporting the spool shaft where it goes in under the tension cap either. I'm thinking of trying to locate one that'll fit. Should make it feel a bit better.
MacP reply :
I use Reel Butter Grease and Oil and Lucas Oil Reel Oil. No complaints from them. I sand spool edges mostly. Sometimes, I'll polish drags too.
rippin-lips reply :
After speaking with Trey Harpel of Threeltuning I've been told that a 3x8x4 bearing will replace that busing. Just so happens I have one out of my zillion since I upgraded to boca os bearings. It fits and I could tell a small difference just by spinning the handle.
Hi Salenity reply :
Humm, I see what the places your making gains and they are great however I like to grease those spots. If I just use oil on the gears by the end of the year they would be out of oil? Or at least I'd think?
I'd concentrate on the bearings and and spool shaft that is going to give you your gains in casting
Flush your bearings then Add 1 drop of oil and clean the spool shaft and leave it dry.
I'll try and find the link to the shimano video it's helpfull to get one tuned up...
Hi Salenity reply :
Hi Salenity reply :
Lots of good info
rippin-lips reply :
On 12/11/2013 at 1:34 PM, Hi Salenity said:Humm, I see what the places your making gains and they are great however I like to grease those spots. If I just use oil on the gears by the end of the year they would be out of oil? Or at least I'd think?
I'd concentrate on the bearings and and spool shaft that is going to give you your gains in casting
Flush your bearings then Add 1 drop of oil and clean the spool shaft and leave it dry.
I'll try and find the link to the shimano video it's helpfully to get one tuned up...
That video is the basic stuff that at a minimum anglers should do to their reels. Along with flushing the side plate and spool bearing. I'm also not a fan of q-tips because they can leave fibers behind. I use these foam applicators women use for eye shadow. Just for peace of mind. Might be overkill but oh well.
Also never did I say I use oil on the gears. Only gear that gets oil and not grease,is the worm gear. That's because grease attracts dirt and the worm gear is open to the elements. Main gear and moving parts like the pinion gear,yoke,ect get grease. Bearings get flushed and re oiled. That's a good series of videos though that should help a beginner not be so scared to do their own maintenance.
thehooligan reply :
First thing i do when i buy a reel is clean it, the makeup applicators is a good idea. The qtips do break down pretty quickly. I should start cleaning stock bearings, ive got so used to just buying boca os bearings, and i just picked up a set of the hawgtechs to try...
Hi Salenity reply :
My fault I assumed you just oiled the gears and that's why it was running so free...
I have a new Tatula R that I need to clean, I'm not looking forward to it it's not one of my favorite things to do but with hard water it's something to do... Like I need another project.
rippin-lips reply :
Not looking forward to it? Only take you 15-20 minutes. I love toying with my reels. I sit down in front of the tv and do it during the games on Sunday.
rippin-lips reply :
On 12/11/2013 at 10:10 PM, Hi Salenity said:My fault I assumed you just oiled the gears and that's why it was running so free...
I have a new Tatula R that I need to clean, I'm not looking forward to it it's not one of my favorite things to do but with hard water it's something to do... Like I need another project.
That's what a properly greased/oiled reel does.
Not looking forward to it? Will only take you 15-20 minutes. I love toying with my reels. I sit down in front of the tv and do it during the games on Sunday and Monday.
rippin-lips reply :
On 12/11/2013 at 8:13 PM, thehooligan said:First thing i do when i buy a reel is clean it, the makeup applicators is a good idea. The qtips do break down pretty quickly. I should start cleaning stock bearings, ive got so used to just buying boca os bearings, and i just picked up a set of the hawgtechs to try...
I wanted to try them out but they didn't carry the 3x8x4 for my zillion so I had to go with bocas.
J Francho reply :
EXCELLENT demonstration! This is a video I took of a properly greased and oiled reel after full cleaning. A tip about grease applicators: trim fibers of a small art paint brush down to about 1/8". I find that a flat, somewhat stif bristle brush around 1/4" wide works best for greasing gear teeth. As far as cleaning the reels, I completely disassemble every single part, and scrub them using a degreaser and toothbrush. About the only thing I use a Q-tip for is to get the last bits of junk out of small round or tubular parts. The parts rinsed thoroughly , so I'm not worried about cotton fibers.
Here's a reel that pretty much behaved like rippin-lip's before reel. Dramatic, to say the least.
rippin-lips reply :
Yeah same here. A mix of purple power and some water plus a toothbrush. I'll have to try the paintbrush tip. Sounds like it might work a bit better.
rockchalk06 reply :
Excellent info and video guys. I remember that video Franco. That is what made my start cleaning my own reels. Not to take away from DVT or any other pro tuners. Cleaning and properly lubing it will make it literally feel like brand new reel provided nothing else is wrong.
J Francho reply :
Mike at DVT and I are friends offline. We chat on the phone regularly, and we pretty much do the same thing to the reels. I don't do too much outside of my own reels and a few friends anymore. If I didn't clean them myself, I'd trust Mike with my gear.
J Francho reply :
On 12/12/2013 at 2:08 AM, rippin-lips said:Yeah same here. A mix of purple power and some water plus a toothbrush. I'll have to try the paintbrush tip. Sounds like it might work a bit better.
I like Purple Power, but here's something I found to be quicker and more powerful. Wear dish gloves though, unless you want dishpan hands. Seriously, it's rough on the skin, though claims to be non irritating.
https://induscoltd.com/shop_now/?slug=product_info.php&cPath=22_25&products_id=51
rippin-lips reply :
I might give that a shot too. Yeah they say the same about purple power but if you ever used it full strength you know it dries your hands out bad. I swish all my parts in a jar of alcohol after I scrub them with pp just to remove any residue. The reel in your video flies. Makes mine look like it was never cleaned haha.
J Francho reply :
It's 100% stock. No polishing or tuning. I used the Bantam Oil that comes with the reel. Nothing fancy. Funny part is, this was not the best performing reel. I kept the best of four Chronarchs for myself. That reel really flies.....
rippin-lips reply :
It's impressive to say the least.
Preytorien reply :
I'm new to baitcasters, just got my first one this year. I'd like to give it a good cleaning and such, but I've never done it, and I'm a bit intimidated by it.
Are there any great instructions/videos on how to do that?
Maybe you guys could help out. What are the parts I need to oil vs what parts to grease?
How do you flush and re-lube sideplate and spool bearings?
Anything else I've missed I should do?
Thanks, I'd like to get my reel in great shape before next season hits me.
rippin-lips reply :
No need to be intimidated by it. Yes the first time it can seem like it's hard but honestly there's not much to a reel. #1 have the schematic out. #2 lay the parts out as the come off. Bearings get oil and the worm gear. Gears get grease along with moving parts. The side plate bearing comes out. The spool bearing comes off with the proper tool. If not you can use a soda cap and sit it down inside of it. Not optimal but it'll work. I scrub all my parts with a toothbrush and degreaser. Rinse them and let them dry. This link is just the basics and will be enough to help your reel perform better. http://www.tackletour.com/articlereelmaintenancedaiwatdsol.htmlOn 12/12/2013 at 3:44 AM, PSN81 said:I'm new to baitcasters, just got my first one this year. I'd like to give it a good cleaning and such, but I've never done it, and I'm a bit intimidated by it.
Are there any great instructions/videos on how to do that?
Maybe you guys could help out. What are the parts I need to oil vs what parts to grease?
How do you flush and re-lube sideplate and spool bearings?
Anything else I've missed I should do?
Thanks, I'd like to get my reel in great shape before next season hits me.
rippin-lips reply :
This is a great video that'll show you what needs to be done. Warning this is as far down as you can get a reel. You don't have to go quite this in depth to improve your reels performance.
J Francho reply :
I recommend a muffin pan to hold parts from each subassembly. Like this:
Bass Junkie reply :
On 12/12/2013 at 4:13 AM, J Francho said:I recommend a muffin pan to hold parts from each subassembly. Like this:
Very nice! And a great approach as well, it's much more difficult to lose parts this way versus a flat surface 
I have always loved the look of the Vientos.
J Francho reply :
They aren't my favorite to assemble, lol.
Bass Junkie reply :
On 12/12/2013 at 4:44 AM, J Francho said:They aren't my favorite to assemble, lol.
I can imagine, especially with the Twitchin' Bar assembly 
They still look good enough that I consider picking one up every now and then.
J Francho reply :
Get a red Smak Tune. Way cooler.
Bass Junkie reply :
On 12/12/2013 at 4:46 AM, J Francho said:Get a red Smak Tune. Way cooler.
And probably somewhat easier to acquire in new shape too... Thanks for the idea
J Francho reply :
Yummy!
Bass Junkie reply :
On 12/12/2013 at 5:21 AM, J Francho said:Yummy!
Now THAT is a gorgeous combo 
Loop_Dad reply :
On 12/12/2013 at 3:44 AM, PSN81 said:I'm new to baitcasters, just got my first one this year. I'd like to give it a good cleaning and such, but I've never done it, and I'm a bit intimidated by it.
Are there any great instructions/videos on how to do that?
Maybe you guys could help out. What are the parts I need to oil vs what parts to grease?
How do you flush and re-lube sideplate and spool bearings?
Anything else I've missed I should do?
Thanks, I'd like to get my reel in great shape before next season hits me.
I did my first flush and lube this summer and since then I did all 7 BCs I have. After first one, the rest is easy.
When I did my first one, the spring flew away and spacer behind the bearing misplaced (and didn't know that was missing for awhile.) So until you get proficient doing this, find yourself nice clean desk with lots of lights and concentrate on what you are doing. Also study the schematics of the reel. Rippling-lips can do while he watches TV because he knows what he's doing.
DogBone_384 reply :
Question is, who's doing the laundry? Sounds like the washer is going in the background.....
rippin-lips reply :
I'm doing laundry. I'm standing in front of it in the video.
Delaware Valley Tackle reply :
On 12/12/2013 at 4:46 AM, Bass Junkie said:I can imagine, especially with the Twitchin' Bar assembly
If given a choice I'll assemble 10 twitchin' bar reels over 1 flippin'switch
The Rooster reply :
I usually use an old white T shirt or a dish towel to lay parts on while cleaning a reel. The grease on them makes them stick to the cloth and not slide or roll around so nothing gets lost. I clean each piece thoroughly and reassemble the reel one part at a time so there is no residue of cloth fibers on the parts. Also those two cloth choices keep fuzz to a minimum on any parts anyway, plus they give me a place to wipe my greasy tools and fingers off on, and the white color makes parts show up easily against it so I don't miss a piece. I lay all parts out in order of the way they came off so reassembly is just the reverse order of how they're laid out. I couldn't use a muffin pan unless I knew COLD where every part went and in what order, which I don't. It would jumble the parts up too much for me and I'd have something reassembled wrong. But doing it this way I also don't need schematics, which also means I can do any reel of any brand or model, even if I've never seen it before, and also while watching TV. However, this method also takes me about an hour or more per reel. I don't mind this but I only try to do one per day due to the time. I clean 5 for myself, sometimes more, and usually one or two for a friend each year.
The Rooster reply :
Also, when removing springs under tension, use a white plastic bag and put the reel inside it. If the spring flies off unexpectedly, it will stay inside the bag hopefully. Saves a lot of stress this way. White bags make finding it easier too. Or use a gallon sized freezer bag so you can see through it. Might be harder to get two hands inside to work but it saves your neck and back trying to scrunch down to see inside a bag to work. The only other choice is to be really careful, or work in a solid white room with no furniture, lots of light, and have a big magnet to find that tiny spring after it goes airborne. LOL
Edited by The RoosterThe Rooster reply :
One final tip that's easier said than done with greasy fingers is to take cell phone pics as you go. If you forget how a part goes on it helps to have a photograph to refresh your memory. I get more from pics than I do schematics since it shows it assembled instead of blown up.
Preytorien reply :
Great advice.
Also, I saw an older post that Francho wrote a while back concerning cleaning and re-lubing. I'll be using this as a guide for sure. Thanks Francho!
"Pull the spool tension cap and friction spring to get to bearing part #4343. You should be able to get it off without removing the handle or star drag - just position the points of the star on either side of the cap. Then open the palm side plate, and gently pry off the bearing retainer clip part # 32 to get to the second spool bearing part #4343. I good tip to remove that retainer clip is to do inside a big ziploc bag. They have a tendency to go flying! Soak them in acetone in a small glass jar. Swirl them occasionally, and check for bits of junk in the acetone. Change out the acetone until no more junk floats in the acetone. Pull them, let them dry for ten minutes or so on some paper towel, then give them a ten minute bath in 70% rubbing alcohol. Pull them out, and let them dry again for ten minutes or so. Add one drop of Bantam Oil to the inner edge of the race, and gently spin the bearing on a pencil to distribute the oil. Let them sit on paper towel for another ten minutes to let any excess oil drain. Reinstall the bearings, putting the parts in reverse order that you removed them. Lastly, do not oil the brake drum. It may work great at first, but the oil will degrade in this application, and get a little sticky. I prefer the brake race simply be clean. Dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol, and gently clean the inside race."
DogBone_384 reply :
On 12/12/2013 at 11:16 AM, rippin-lips said:I'm doing laundry. I'm standing in front of it in the video.
Your wife has you trained like mine has me ?!?!?! The Horror!
rippin-lips reply :
On 12/12/2013 at 10:34 PM, DogBone_384 said:Your wife has you trained like mine has me ?!?!?! The Horror!
Not married here. That's why I'm doing my own laundry haha.
DogBone_384 reply :
On 12/13/2013 at 12:04 AM, rippin-lips said:Not married here. That's why I'm doing my own laundry haha.
I've got it good: wife is from Philippines. I do laundry because we both work 2 jobs....
Trey Harpel reply :
On 12/11/2013 at 1:25 PM, rippin-lips said:After speaking with Trey Harpel of Threeltuning I've been told that a 3x8x4 bearing will replace that busing. Just so happens I have one out of my zillion since I upgraded to boca os bearings. It fits and I could tell a small difference just by spinning the handle.
yup it works!
ALWAYS good to clean a brand new reel as they just dump oil and grease from factory is some reels(shimano more so then Daiwas) from my experiance.. Lexa is a solid reel and you would love the tatula..
rippin-lips reply :
I plan on getting one before next spring. I'm holding off just incase Santa brings me one lol
MacP reply :
I picked up a mint Abu 6501 C3 from a forum member today at a great price. First thing I did when I got home was take that sucker appart, take old grease out, put new grease and lube on her. Cleaned up the excess and watched her spin. It was a three fold improvement over the condition I got her in. Which was pretty much stock and slightly used.
Now, I gotta get a power handle so I can fight those muskys 
Bass Junkie reply :
On 12/12/2013 at 12:19 PM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:If given a choice I'll assemble 10 twitchin' bar reels over 1 flippin'switch
Really? I've maintenanced several Quantum's with the Flippin' Switch and never had too many issues. Frustrating yes, but not what I would anticipate the Twitchin' Bar being 
J Francho reply :
The Twitchin' bar is just a second handle/main gear, with an AR bearing attached. Lots of parts, but doesn't require three hands, and five opposable thumbs to get the side plate back on, lol.
daiwaguy reply :
On 12/12/2013 at 4:13 AM, J Francho said:I recommend a muffin pan to hold parts from each subassembly. Like this:
I should send you a few of my Viento reels. I havent attempted them because of the Twitchin Bar. LOL. I like your idea here.
Hi Salenity reply :
ok, you've shamed me into cleaning some of my reels again Lol!On 12/12/2013 at 12:14 AM, rippin-lips said:Not looking forward to it? Only take you 15-20 minutes. I love toying with my reels. I sit down in front of the tv and do it during the games on Sunday.
I'm starting with the quadruplets. I cleaned and relubed the one on the left 2 years ago and it still looks and works great. The other 3 were bought as manufacturer refurbished reels that were supposedly gone through by Lews. Notice those 3 have 3 different lubes? They also have Lots of different parts inside.
CKFishin reply :
Thanks guys... As if I needed to try and teach myself something else lol...
Gonna have to go get some real cleaning supplies and grease tomorrow so I can finish...
I decided to learn on the cheapest reel I have... The 200e's aren't getting touched yet.
rippin-lips reply :
Well you have it all torn down so you're 40% done. Just clean everything real good and grease/oil what gets it. Then put it back together.
This is a good thing to teach yourself. You accomplish a few things. #1 a better performing reel. #2 you don't have to pay anyone to do it. #3 your reels will last you longer now. For me I fell right into it. I've built cars for years including the engine so after selling my last car, this gave me something to tinker with. Plus you can upgrade some reels so that fit the bill for me.
Jaheff reply :
I have a question for you Francho...
In the video you show the handle, in gear, spinning so free with no resistance.Some of my best casting reels ( 50e) i have wont even make three revolutions
around as i like to use heavier grease on my gears cause of the feel of it not being so free and having some resistance. My question is, am i loosing performance from using heavier grease, cause i like the feel? Or are you just bench testing with everything backed of in the video?
rippin-lips reply :
One of the reasons for doing a full clean and re grease/oil is because the factory is known to use too much and it costs you performance. So by using a thicker grease I would say you are basically doing the same thing. To answer your question,yes. That's my thoughts on it from a mechanical stand point.On 12/15/2013 at 1:48 AM, Jaheff said:I have a question for you Francho...
In the video you show the handle, in gear, spinning so free with no resistance.Some of my best casting reels ( 50e) i have wont even make three revolutions
around as i like to use heavier grease on my gears cause of the feel of it not being so free and having some resistance. My question is, am i loosing performance from using heavier grease, cause i like the feel? Or are you just bench testing with everything backed of in the video?
Preytorien reply :
Well, my reel clean didn't give the results I thought it would.
I didn't manage to lose any parts or anything, I was very, very careful.
I cleaned the gears, the pinion, and the worm gear in Simple Green. I soaked the bearings for ~15minutes a piece in acetone. Then soaked them in 70% alcohol for about 10 minutes. Then lubed them with the oil that came with my Curado. I re-lubed the gears and worm gear with grease, nothing heavy. Cleaned the brake tracks (didn't oil them). I cleaned the inside of the worm gear with a q-tip with most of the cotton pulled off, it's sparkly clean.
It seems to behave just the exact same as it did before. Maybe just a smidge better. But nothing to jump up and down about.
Maybe I won't notice a huge improvement. This is a brand new reel. I don't have a rod for it yet, and it's never even been spooled with line.
Anything you might see I'm missing?
Hi Salenity reply :
It depends on what your expectations are. Have you checked the free spool? Press the button and thumb the spool. That is what affects the casting distance... If you flushed and properly oiled it the free spool should be allot better.
I have a Core50 I cleaned a couple years ago and it still spins fast when you turn the handle but it doesn't have enough lube in it for me because it's not buttery smooth.
Preytorien reply :
Yea, it spins a bit more, but nothing like in Francho's video 
Maybe that's setting the bar high.
Either way, it's nice and clean now. It didn't really have all the "packed grease" like I keep hearing, it was actually quite clean inside.
I love the reel, and I'm very excited that it's in my arsenal, so I am pretty satisfied with the way it works out of the box. I was just hoping I could get a bit better freespool.
rippin-lips reply :
Not to burst anyone's bubble but the free spool of a reel doesn't matter. Set your brakes and spool tension on what they'd normally be on when fishing,then check your free spool. Tell me how fast it is.... Unless you are extremely good with your thumb and use no brakes and little spool tension,free spool is a mute point.
PSN81 - what reel did you clean up? It's 50/50 on grease vs oil on the worm gear but grease WILL slow it down vs oil and it also attracts debris.
My lexa got better but nowhere like Francho's reel but it's also 2 reels on different price levels. Now my Steez is just like his video. Just keep that in mind too. Maybe try one of your better reels now.
Preytorien reply :
When I have the spool tension knob where I'd likely have it, the drag set where I'd like it, and the brakes where I'd like it.....
The freespool isn't too great.
Let me ask you this....
When I soaked the bearings, the water didn't look dirty...at all. Granted these are brand new bearings. Shimano A-RB bearings. Do I need to disassemble them from the races and such, or just simply plop them in acetone/degreaser?
Additionally, I don't have any other oil other than the oil that came with this reel. Francho recommended it. Would be equally as well off to use Reel Butter or something else I have lying around?
You mention using oil, rather than grease, on the gears? Will that wear off quickly or anything? I was using a medium viscosity marine grease, as I figured it'd be good for keeping parts exposed to water working well. I use it a lot on more static parts of the bikes I build.
Thanks in advance for the help, I'm pretty much relying on you guys for the direction on this! Fingers crossed! 
rippin-lips reply :
I just soak all my bearings. Swishing them in the jar from time to time in degreaser. Sometimes I use brake cleaner because it'll break down anything. I'll pull them out and spin them on the end of a pencil. You should be able to tell if they're clean. Noticeably louder and spin very well. That oil is fine but use lightly. 1 drop is all you need. THE WORM GEAR ONLY is what I use oil on and not grease - not gears in general. Any gears inside the reel get grease. Just enough to get in the teeth about 1/2 - 3/4 around depending on how big the gear is. I then spin the reel a bunch and wipe away anything that is extra. I use reel butter grease but there have been numerous brands mentioned. For oil I use boca lightning oil but again you have many choices. Watch those YouTube videos again if you have to. The 2nd and 3rd go over re lubing the reel.On 12/15/2013 at 9:55 AM, PSN81 said:When I have the spool tension knob where I'd likely have it, the drag set where I'd like it, and the brakes where I'd like it.....
The freespool isn't too great.
Let me ask you this....
When I soaked the bearings, the water didn't look dirty...at all. Granted these are brand new bearings. Shimano A-RB bearings. Do I need to disassemble them from the races and such, or just simply plop them in acetone/degreaser?
Additionally, I don't have any other oil other than the oil that came with this reel. Francho recommended it. Would be equally as well off to use Reel Butter or something else I have lying around?
You mention using oil, rather than grease, on the gears? Will that wear off quickly or anything? I was using a medium viscosity marine grease, as I figured it'd be good for keeping parts exposed to water working well. I use it a lot on more static parts of the bikes I build.
Thanks in advance for the help, I'm pretty much relying on you guys for the direction on this! Fingers crossed!
Preytorien reply :
A couple of updates....
I soaked the bearings in acetone, then alcohol, then dried, then used Reel Butter. I used a very minimal amount of grease, but enough to keep it from being noisy, and I used the Reel Butter on the pinion gear.
It's a pretty noticeable difference. I'm not sure which application made the most difference, the Reel Butter, or the fact that I soaked the bearings for much longer, using less grease, cleaning everything a bit more thoroughly, or just a combination of them all. Either way, it's quite a bit better, and now the inside is even cleaner than it already was. Thanks for the help guys, I'm very happy with the results this time around.
Also, I tried with another reel of mine the test of using a wax-based dry lubricant. While the concept is good, the application of it is in need of some refining. It's not easy to get enough in the gear teeth without also getting it all over the rest of the gear. I didn't attempt it with bearings. The area though where it actually did very well is the line guide bar and it's worm drive. Those are elementally exposed pieces, so the dry lube seems to do a good job of not caking, but yet it provides good friction reduction. However, as I mentioned in a post prior, I wanted to see how cleanup was. Using acetone as a solvent, it cleanly and quickly broke down and removed the wax-lube. I'm sure gasoline, lighter fluid, Purple Power, or Simple Green would do the exact same. So I'd say on those two parts it's pretty useful, as for the rest of the reel, I'd probably stick to the tried-and-true grease/oil applications.
J Francho reply :
Good report. The worm drive was actually a place where I figured the wax might be a good place. I'll try some on my own reels. Currently, a dip in ATF, wiping off the excess, and installing has been working like a charm.
ClackerBuzz reply :
Mike@DVT gave me a great tip i enjoyed this year. i said i was worried about doing damage while removing the spool bearing so i'd probably buy the special pliers. he said i didn't have to remove it but could fill a small vertical container with acetone to soak it while on spool. i use a Shapie marker cap and just soak for 2 min, spin..repeat a few times. works like a charm. i even found a small clear cap and you can see the dirt and oil plane as day. tks Mike.
(per his warning acetone can damage ur line so cover it well with tape etc. i tape my braid and make sure not to spin the bearing like superman and it works great. but i would cover it extra well if i had very expensive fluoro on spool)
rippin-lips reply :
Yeah I've done that before but investing $35 in the hedgehog studios spool pin tool is one of the best purchases I've made. It makes life a lot easier if you are doing this to multiple reels a few times a year.
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