I had a bad experience with "won't name brand" 10lb FC on a 4000 reel size spinning setup.
I have a Tatula ct Type R/St. Croix premier with 10lb Trilene XL and caught my PB last weekend. I'm very happy with it's castibilty.
This setup is mainly just for 1/4 T Rigs. Should I give FC another shot?
I just found this and I'm wondering what some Veteran FC users opinion on this article.
http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/the-truth-about-fluorocarbon.html
Considering I wrote it, I think rather highly of it ? Tried to be as objective as possible. Has been referenced by numerous similar articles written later. Personally, I use fluoro on 90% of my baitcasters, but If XL works for you, don't change. Congrats on the PB by the way!
-T9
LOL wow! Small world!
On 4/6/2017 at 10:30 PM, Team9nine said:Considering I wrote it, I think rather highly of it ? Tried to be as objective as possible. Has been referenced by numerous similar articles written later. Personally, I use fluoro on 90% of my baitcasters, but If XL works for you, don't change. Congrats on the PB by the way!
-T9
I'm just wondering if there will be more sensitivity when a bass sucks up a t-rig on FC
I agree with Team9nine, if you like XL and don't have a problem. Continue to use it! You don't need to follow what everyone else does.
On 4/6/2017 at 10:41 PM, TX-Deluxe said:LOL wow! Small world!
I'm just wondering if there will be more sensitivity when a bass sucks up a t-rig on FC
Yes, there will, but you also have to be willing to live with the trade-offs (generally stiffer lines, poorer knot strength, etc.). Many new FC formulations coming on the market to address the "issues" now days.
Flouro and me do not play well together. I am getting old, I don't think we are ever going to get along.
Have you ever tried Trilene XT? I much prefer the strength of XT over XL. The only time I use XL would be for something very light on a spinning reel.
When I fished saltwater (Atlantic Ocean), I fished with Big Game Mono, Braided Nylon,
Braided Dacron, Monel & Lead-Core line. But in freshwater lakes and streams,
I fished exclusively with Berkley Trilene XL from about 1950 to year 2005.
In 2005 I switched from nylon monofilament to braided polyethylene, where I remain today.
Without a doubt, nylon monofilament is a great line material (and its many copolymers).
My major gripe with mono is its "insane stretch" and its tendency to "bird nest" with spinning gear.
Braid of course, solved both issues.
As for fluorocarbon, it's tendency to self-cleave results in unstable knot-strength,
something I can't condone. In addition, fluorocarbon is as wiry as some of the tieable steel leader
I use for toothy critters. Furthermore, the last time I tried Tatsu fluoro, I found myself
taking a step backward during the hook-set, to compensate for line-stretch (braid spoiled me).
There's a long list of advantages to using a line with 'thin diameter', and fluorocarbon's
FAT diameter is several negatives rolled into one. When fluorocarbon is taken out of the equation,
it's no longer necessary to spit on your knots or wipe line-conditioner on your fishing line.
All that said, different anglers prefer different lures and different hooks,
so it stands to reason why we'd also prefer different line materials.
Roger
If its not broken don't try and fix it. The handling alone is not worth the change if its not limiting your catch rate. Knot strength and having to use special knots is a PTIA. You may want to try a co-polymer if your in the mood to try something new, but FC is only worth while if you need what it can provide to include its drawbacks. I am a huge fan of YHB and going back to it now that I am not fishing gin clear water.
Sensitivity is the biggest upgrades from any mono to FC. FC for bottom baits i think is a must in scenarios you wouldnt use braid. Personally i use FC on 24 of my 30 casting combos. The only time i use mono is for topwater, and only for whopper ploppers and prop baits at that. Any bottom contact bait and any moving bait you get more sensitivity/feel when using them. Moving bait wise it really helps in being able to feel what the bait is doing, or more importantly what it isnt doing. Being able to feel if a crank or chatterbait for instance has some weeds on it will make the difference in a wasted cast or something you can rip and create that erratic action needed to get a bite. Bottom contact wise, it just makes a huge difference feeling everything. You can tell much easier what you are dragging across, if you are hitting something hard like rock vs something that gives like wood, etc. I would say try a spool of Seaguar Red Label, you can get a 200yd spool for around $13, put it on one of your bottom contact combos, and use it side by side with another combo using the same bait to see if the difference is worth it to you.
Why not YoZuri hybrid ? 8 lbs would be my choice, more user friendly than 10 lb and ridiculousy strong, better sensitivity than plain nylon.
You won't catch me trying to talk you into using it. I prefer mono or co-polymers. There are quite a few goods ones....Big Game, XT, Yo-Zuri, CXX, Platinum, AN40, McCoy, XXX, etc., etc.
Congratulations on your PB.
When Trilene entered the primium monofilament line business their competition was DuPont Original Stren back in the '60's. Trilene came out 2 mono lines; XL for extra limp and XT for extra tough. Trilene XL targeted the spinning reel market, XT was promoted for baitcasting reels. Stren has lost market share, Trilene gained market share with XL and XT.
Do you know what the difference is? XL is a smaller diameter line, 1 lb test smaller than XT and over the years I can't determine any other difference....same line.
Back to your question, FC line has a higher memory per diameter then Nylon mono like XL and doesn't absorb water like mono does. Dry line doesn't lay onto the reel spool like a wet line does and impacts line management or casting issues. FC requires a wetting agent like KVD or Tangle Free line lubricants to allow water to wet the line and lay onto the spool.
FC line is heavier and tends to sink in water, mono is lighter and tends to float. FC has a lower coeffient of drag going through water, creates less bow in the line than mono. Bass are not line shy fish so the lower refraction of light is meaningless. The big hurdle with FC line is cost and lower knot strength than mono. FC does give you slightly better feel or contact with bottom contact lures like jigs and soft plastics, the down side is knot strength.
Only you can determine what is best for your type of fishing.
Tom
Palomar good on FC?
I'm thinking fisherman are tinkerers(is that even a word) by nature .
I chose XL thinking less memory even on a casting setup.
Really good opinions Gentlemen
There are only a few knots that have good knot strength with flouro. The SD jam seems to be a favorite. I snell when ever possible
On 4/7/2017 at 12:32 AM, TX-Deluxe said:Palomar good on FC?
When you're tying to the eyelet of a plug with 3 treble hooks,
you may not be too thrilled with a Palomar knot.
Roger
On 4/7/2017 at 12:32 AM, TX-Deluxe said:Palomar good on FC?
I'm thinking fisherman are tinkerers(is that even a word) by nature .
I chose XL thinking less memory even on a casting setup.
Really good opinions Gentlemen
Yes, the Palomar is a good knot to use with FC if tied correctly. The biggest thing is to make sure you don't cross the line over itself and also to make sure you wet the line. Here is a good video that discusses this...
I use the Palomar knot on both FC and mono for single hook applications where only the hook goes through the loop. For all other applications I prefer the San Diego jam knot for FC becuase it's a easy knot to tie correctly on larger size lures and jigs. Knot strength is a problem with FC, tie your knots carefully and always wet the line before clinching it tight to prevent line damage.
Tom
If what you're using now works and gives you confidence, stick with it.
I like Fluoro and don't have many issues with it. I use a palomar knot almost exclusively and don't have issues with it. 6lb for spinning gear. 10lb for weightless plastics. 12lb for moving spinners and swim jigs, an minimum 15lb for any weighted jigs that are fished off the bottom.
I wrote off FC after the initial run came out and anyone who tried those first ones knows why - they were bad.
My Spinning gear applications are all Braid (and leader) No Exceptions - Any & All Nylon there is just a PIA.
Revolving spool tackle is a mix of braid, mono & I've tried a few coploy products; as copoly stocks were exhausted, I chose not to resupply.
As the most recent FC products had reportedly improved, and despite swearing it off, I gave FC another shot (last season).
I found that I liked it for sub-surface moving baits presented on a moderate or moderate fast stick; mostly treble hook baits, spinnerbaits & vibrating jigs.
As long as I am willing to condition the line as needed, re-tie often and of course pay the piper, FC had become a viable tool for me.
That said, FC presents less than 50% of my baits and Braid & Mono share the majority of the work load.
Finally, whenever I am fishing in a place that is known for super large / fish of a life time Trophy Bass, I use Mono.
I just make shorter casts.
A-Jay
I tryed FC once and didn't care for it due to knots not holding and or breaking, this was last summer.
I use mono, Trilene xl and xt and can't find any diffrence between the two. Smallest I use is 12# but like the 14# the best.
I use it on all baits except my frogs, frogs get PP braid.
Bottom line if it work for you (ohh and nice catch sir) and you feel confident with it don't change it.
Hope this helps you sir.
here is my opinion and personal experience on the matter..... I grew up fishing mono. used trilene xl a lot. I have settled on trilene big game as my favorite mono. years ago when flouro first came out I tried it. used the same knots I used with mono and treated it the same. I had a bad experience and went back to the trusty mono. over the next 4 years or so, I started putting pieces of the flouro puzzle together, learning what knots I should be tying and what techniques to use it with. I slowly started replacing some techniques with flouro. the first was cranking. I got used to it and couldn't imagine fishing mono. it was more sensitive and I could get a little deeper with my baits. the next was shakey heads and finesse baits. now I am at the point where the only thing I use mono for is texas rigs, Carolina rigs and topwater. I knew there were benefits to flouro with some of my techniques and I wanted to exploit them it just took me a while to realize that I could not tie the same knots or leave it on the reel for a long period of time before I had to change it.
my point here is, you may have had a bad experience with flouro and im in the same boat as you. I had about 20 bad experiences with it before I figured out how to use it. however, if you are confident with the mono and that is what you like, stick with it. I know for me, I could hardly catch a fish on flouro in the beginning because I didn't have any confidence in it. once the confidencd started increasing so did the fish catches. if your confidence is with mono, you will probably catch more with it anyway.
FC is my "all around" line. Only use mono for topwater since I tried sniper FC. Braid for frogs and jigs in heavy cover.
It sinks is reason enough for me! I don't have 20+/- some odd yards laying on the surface I have to reel in to get line taught enough to set the hook.
On 4/7/2017 at 4:35 AM, dam0007 said:It sinks is reason enough for me! I don't have 20+/- some odd yards laying on the surface I have to reel in to get line taught enough to set the hook.
Solid point.
I'm probably going to spend this entire season with T-Rigs on my casting setup.
I don't want to lose much distance with something over 12lb.
Recommendations for. Daiwa Tatula CT Type R?
I'm going to give it another go with FC
I use Flouro on every combo I have except for punching / frogs (braid) and cranks / spinnerbait (Yo Zuri) and do not have the problems with it that some of you guys keep posting about, here and in a dozen other threads. I just don't get it.
After trying 3 other brands I've settled on Sunline.
Sniper for 14# and down with a single SDJ knot.
Shooter 16# and up tied with a double.
I've rarely had a problem with a knot not holding and it's supple enough for me right off the spool, but I do use Line & Lure especially when I want to bomb a cast with it.
If I'm not carefull picking out a backlash, yes it will kink but the advantages of useing it far outweighs all the negatives.
Don't use mono anymore for anything, just don't see the need for it.
Mike
On 4/6/2017 at 10:14 PM, TX-Deluxe said:I had a bad experience with "won't name brand" 10lb FC on a 4000 reel size spinning setup.
I have a Tatula ct Type R/St. Croix premier with 10lb Trilene XL and caught my PB last weekend. I'm very happy with it's castibilty.
This setup is mainly just for 1/4 T Rigs. Should I give FC another shot?
I just found this and I'm wondering what some Veteran FC users opinion on this article.
http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/the-truth-about-fluorocarbon.html
Take that FC and burn it. Braid for that spinning reel. Stop wasting your money on FC. LOL
On 4/7/2017 at 6:51 AM, Caliyak said:Take that FC and burn it. Braid for that spinning reel. Stop wasting your money on FC. LOL
A tad blunt perhaps, but no argument here
On 4/7/2017 at 12:32 AM, TX-Deluxe said:Palomar good on FC?
I'm thinking fisherman are tinkerers(is that even a word) by nature .
I chose XL thinking less memory even on a casting setup.
Really good opinions Gentlemen
Any softer mono type line will have less memory. I also like Sufix Elite and Sunline Super Natural for that reason. A friend suggested AN40 and I have it on several casting reels. Currently trying Izorline XXX but haven't used it enough yet to form an opinion.
On 4/7/2017 at 6:21 AM, TX-Deluxe said:Solid point.
I'm probably going to spend this entire season with T-Rigs on my casting setup.
I don't want to lose much distance with something over 12lb.
Recommendations for. Daiwa Tatula CT Type R?
I'm going to give it another go with FC
before @iabass8 jumps in on my recommendations lmaoooo(I'm notorious for fishing too light in many scenarios) 12lb Sniper has been my go to Jig/Trig line 3 years and running. If I'm worried about abrasion I jump to Shooter in same test. Rarely do I go higher than 12lb with exception of C Rig I run 16. But yeah 7, 10, and 12. Are pretty much the main tests I go with. If you want to save $5, Assassin has been great for me I like it for moving baits. Also I tie a modified San Diego jam knot.
On 4/7/2017 at 8:44 AM, dam0007 said:before @iabass8 jumps in on my recommendations lmaoooo(I'm notorious for fishing too light in many scenarios) 12lb Sniper has been my go to Jig/Trig line 3 years and running. If I'm worried about abrasion I jump to Shooter in same test. Rarely do I go higher than 12lb with exception of C Rig I run 16. But yeah 7, 10, and 12. Are pretty much the main tests I go with. If you want to save $5, Assassin has been great for me I like it for moving baits. Also I tie a modified San Diego jam knot.
I'm cuious...How do you modify your SDJ knot?
Thanks
Mike
Congrats on your PB,Been using a long time.Probably never change .
Line is a very personal choice, and opinions about what the data means is less important than what your hands tell you. For years, decades really, Trilene was fine and worked well for me. I tried a super line when it first came out, but couldn't really adjust to it. Later, I tried a different mono, simply out of curiosity. Times had changed, and there were better lines than Trilene. Clearly, since they changed the formula a couple times since. So, that's a case where technology had changed, and newer lines were just better made than the old stand by.
Other times, the line becomes a limitation, and something different is better solution. Braid and slop is a good example of this. T9's article highlights exactly why I started trying out fluorocarbon lines for drop shot, and other finesse presentations - being able to detect the "thump" of a fish taking your bait.
I'm not a big proponent of wholesale changes to your game, when it comes to fishing. Rather, I see it as an evolution, brought out by discovery of newer, maybe better products. Or overcoming fishing challenges with a more suited product. For the most part, I like to add to my game, not change it. That's my advice here.
Agree with @J Francho There is no perfect line. With any of the major line types, you are gaining some specific benefit(s), but sacrificing something in exchange. The real question we all have to decide for ourselves is whether those benefits we gain by using a certain line type outweigh the negatives (or can the negatives be satisfactorily accommodated). The "right" answer will be different for each of us.
-T9
O.P.
Only you can answer this question. You will need to try some different lines and decide which you like best.
Before we go down the dark road of this line vs that line. When I started fishing I used DuPont Magnathin. Yeah my age is showing. I be leaved at the time is was less visible to the fish, Ya I know.
I caught fish, even though the stretch was enormous on that line. I fish mostly Fluorocarbon now, but decided to spool up one of my bait casters with Berkley Big Game last week. You know what, the next day I caught just as many fish? On a gin clear lake by home!
I have seen people take big fish on 50# braid with no leader, on crystal clear lakes on a sunny day. Fishes brains are very little after all, as long as you are presenting the bait properly they will bite it
I guess what I am trying to say is, don't buy into what others are saying, fish what you like. After all it is your mini vacation, play it like you want to.
I think this forum is populated by a bunch of happy masochists, trying and trying to make FC work well. Just kidding a bit, but hear me out. FC, especially the ones that are supposed to solve the problems of FC are very expensive. Then it is touted for having better sensitivity than mono, and for being more invisible in the water than mono. Has anyone seen any really decent data on either of these supposed advantages? Even if there is a difference, is it enough to justify all the hassles? Is it significant? While many of us are facing the frustrations trying to have the most invisible line available, others are tying directly to braid and doing well. Like the previous post. And many others.
And what about FC disadvantages? Get a backlash with FC, and that's very easy to do, and you just may break the line before you get it untangled. And knot strength is often suspect.
I'm dropping out of the frustration, using only braid and mono for casting, still using up some FC for leaders. But when I need more leader material it will be hard mono or leader grade FC. I'm not a masochist, so I wasn't having much fun trying to make FC work.
@ MikeD
I agree with you 100%
Fluorocarbon does have advantages, one is it is less visible in water, but you will find no good data to prove fish really care if something is hanging off the end of the bait.
Fluorocarbon has as much stretch than mono. Some brands like Invizx even more than mono.
Fluorocarbon does transmit feeling better due to it's density, but in the reverse, doesn't that mean the fish can feel you also?
Braid Floats, very visible, makes noise going over reeds and wood "Sawing sound?" but fish don't seem to care. The 8 layer braid is less noisy though.
Mono is more visible to bass but they don't seem to notice?
Mono has stretch, so you don't feel everything as well as Fluorocarbon, but nether does the fish. Just reel in the slack and set the hook.
Mono floats, so it's ideal for top water presentations and treble hooked baits.
Fish are dumb, don't overthink this more than it needs to be.
Use what you like.
On 4/7/2017 at 6:21 AM, TX-Deluxe said:I'm going to give it another go with FC
good idea. another tool in the box.
im not sure why so many are having issues with FC. I use it on spinning and BC with no problems.
I tried to give fluoro a real shot. I used Tatsu and Shooter on a bunch of different rigs and phased it out completely as a main line last week. To me, it's just awful as a main line. "Give it a couple of squirts of whatever and it's ok." If you need to carry a spray bottle around to cast a spinnerbait the line sucks. I do like it as a leader on my braid though. The low-vis property is a bonus and it lacks stretch like braid keeping my delivery consistent.
It's the equivalent of needing a pound of sugar and caramel in coffee or fish drowned in lemon juice, vinegar, and tartar sauce. You don't like coffee or fish. Order something you like next time.
Mono will work great as long as you are dialed into your equipment.
On 4/7/2017 at 9:24 PM, Mike L said:
I'm cuious...How do you modify your SDJ knot?
Thanks
Mike
Lmaooo I don't do it right haha
pinch > 7 wraps > then skip passing it through loop near eyelet and go through loop I created at the pinch. hasnt failed me yet.
I felt I had some stretch over the weekend with the XL. I'm sure wind was also contributing to my weak hooksets .
They say these new copolymer have less stretch over mono...Can anyone confirm this?
I just canr drop $20-40 On line yet. ( I don't fish for money)
..Id rather buy my kid something cool from the toy aisle....LOL
On 4/12/2017 at 12:01 AM, dam0007 said:Lmaooo I don't do it right haha
pinch > 7 wraps > then skip passing it through loop near eyelet and go through loop I created at the pinch. hasnt failed me yet.
That's a good not!
I think it's called the Pitzen 16/20.
I used to tie that also and never had problem either. I just figured passing through 1 extra loop would make it that much better. Just have to take more care in cinching it down.
Thanks
Mike
On 4/12/2017 at 1:30 AM, Mike L said:
That's a good not!
I think it's called the Pitzen 16/20.
I used to tie that also and never had problem either. I just figured passing through 1 extra loop would make it that much better. Just have to take more care in cinching it down.
Thanks
Mike
Just googled it! Exactly it's a Pitzen knot I use. Learn something new everyday! Lol yeah it's finicky when you cinch it if you don't pull Main and tag end snugly simultaneous. That bottom wrap may get pulled up under the other wraps especially if you have more than 5. I typically do 7 8-12lb and 5 or 6 wraps for anything higher. Braid and mono I stick with palomar.
On 4/12/2017 at 12:30 AM, TX-Deluxe said:
They say these new copolymer have less stretch over mono...Can anyone confirm this?
This is from a article I read here. It would appear that fluorocarbon stretches about the same as mono, some brands more.
Whatever the topic, don't try to be convinced if you aren't. Read and listen with an open mind then make your own decision factoring in your own experience. So many times evidence offered is anecdotal with correlation but not necessarily causation. Arguably the most important aspect is confidence in what you're doing rather than the details.
On 4/13/2017 at 8:24 AM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:Whatever the topic, don't try to be convinced if you aren't. Read and listen with an open mind then make your own decision factoring in your own experience. So many times evidence offered is anecdotal with correlation but not necessarily causation. Arguably the most important aspect is confidence in what you're doing rather than the details.
Exactly right...I think we all can agree to this!
Mike
in the past i tried fc and tungsten weights separately and thought "whats all the hype?". i have since bought a really nice rod and when i went back to fc i was like wow!!. then adding tungsten i was like wholly ****!!!!. i think it takes all the little things to add up for it to become that wow moment..
all that said several of my rods still use old school stren and im ok with that too.
I'm not a fan of either line. I like the P-Line CX. Give it a try.
note: I do note use spinning reels.