I just started bass fishing last summer and am gearing up for this coming spring. Can anyone reccommend what brand(Seaguar/Sunline/etc), and # of line for the lures in the question. I rather would run straight line, no leaders. Thanks!
Deep diving cranks - 12 lb. Sunline Sniper FC
Jigs medium size - 16-20 lb. Sunline Sniper FC (cover dependent)
Spinner/chatterbaits - 14lb. Sunline Sniper FC
One line for all? Id say 15# sunline sniper. It will hurt the cranks by a foot or two of depth, but give you enough abrasion resistance for the jigs. Its a huge comprimise to ask that much of one rod and line, but im guessing its your only rig currently.
On 3/7/2017 at 5:52 AM, junyer357 said:One line for all? Id say 15# sunline sniper. It will hurt the cranks by a foot or two of depth, but give you enough abrasion resistance for the jigs. Its a huge comprimise to ask that much of one rod and line, but im guessing its your only rig currently.
I've got a seperate rod for each, definetely helps lol.
12# Yo-Zuri Hybrid. If you want to go flouro id say 12 or 15# Sunline Assassin
On 3/7/2017 at 4:11 AM, fishballer06 said:Deep diving cranks - 12 lb. Sunline Sniper FC
Jigs medium size - 16-20 lb. Sunline Sniper FC (cover dependent)
Spinner/chatterbaits - 14lb. Sunline Sniper FC
I 2nd this.
I use 15 lb Seaguar invisx for cranks, chatterbaits and spinner baits. I used the same line last year for jigs but I didn't catch many fish with them. It wasn't anything to do with the line, just being impatient and wanting to use something I was more familiar with. This year I'm gonna try 50 lb power pro with a 15 lb invisx leader on the jig rod. I was the same as you, multiple setups but wanted a good all around line for simplicity, and the invisx performed very well for me.
Trilene Big Game 12 lb test.
Treble hooks: Sunline Shooter Defier Armilo http://www.sunlineamerica.com/shooter-defier-armilo/
Single hooks: Seaguar Tatsu #10, #12 or #15 https://seaguar.com/shop-direct/shop_seaguar/tatsu.html
On 3/7/2017 at 6:08 AM, Justin L. said:I've got a seperate rod for each, definetely helps lol.
Ok. Gotcha. Wasnt sure since you said you were just beginning last summer. In that case i prefer
12# abrasx for cranks
16-18# sniper (i prefer tatsu most but out of my budget) on the jigs
12-15# invisx for spinner/chatterbait, unless you throw a buzzbait then you id go with 14# suffix seige mono.
On 3/7/2017 at 4:11 AM, fishballer06 said:Deep diving cranks - 12 lb. Sunline Sniper FC
Jigs medium size - 16-20 lb. Sunline Sniper FC (cover dependent)
Spinner/chatterbaits - 14lb. Sunline Sniper FC
I'm still new to the game but things are slowing sinking in. The recommendations above I can understand but have a couple of q's about line selection.
Regarding line for deep diving Cranks (DD-22 & SKT Mag 120) - I know floro is great as it sinks and thinner is better to get down but instead of going with the 12lb Sunline Sniper recommended above does it make any sense to go with 30#braid with a nice long floro leader. My thinking is you will get a farther cast with braid, better bite sensitivity and braid is thin enough so water resistance I don't think will be an issue for obtaining deep depths, but that is only a guess.
Ditto that above philosophy on my Topwater rod. Use 30# braid w/mono leader. Braid for the distance and mono for the floatation as apposed to straight mono.
My Megabass Jerkbait rod - I have #30 Suffix 832 with a 20#floro leader. Again the same philosophy, braid for distance and floro for stealth.
I have 10# 832 Suffix on my Spinning NRX rig for finesse fishing but plan on putting floro leader on for stealth. I would guess 8lb leader ??
Suggesting using the 30# braid weight as I know lighter thinner braid will cut in spool so thinking of choosing 30# to alleviate
this problem and still get great casts. Since I have VERY little baitcasting time not sure what the "cutoff" of "too thin a braid" is ?
As you can see I am a big braid fan. This is still all new to me so look forward to your recommendations.
If I am off base just tell me. Thanks.
P.S. I do have a 1000 yard spool of Seaguar Inviszx so if that can be used in any of the equations above.....
On 3/8/2017 at 3:27 AM, fishraptor said:Regarding line for deep diving Cranks (DD-22 & SKT Mag 120) - I know floro is great as it sinks and thinner is better to get down but instead of going with the 12lb Sunline Sniper recommended above does it make any sense to go with 30#braid with a nice long floro leader. My thinking is you will get a farther cast with braid, better bite sensitivity and braid is thin enough so water resistance I don't think will be an issue for obtaining deep depths, but that is only a guess.
Ditto that above philosophy on my Topwater rod. Use 30# braid w/mono leader. Braid for the distance and mono for the floatation as apposed to straight mono.
My Megabass Jerkbait rod - I have #30 Suffix 832 with a 20#floro leader. Again the same philosophy, braid for distance and floro for stealth.
I have 10# 832 Suffix on my Spinning NRX rig for finesse fishing but plan on putting floro leader on for stealth. I would guess 8lb leader ??
Suggesting using the 30# braid weight as I know lighter thinner braid will cut in spool so thinking of choosing 30# to alleviate
this problem and still get great casts. Since I have VERY little baitcasting time not sure what the "cutoff" of "too thin a braid" is ?
You're talking a totally different animal whenever you're talking crankbaits. A DD22 is fine to throw on 12lb. fluoro, as it only weighs 5/8oz. However, that SKT MAG120 weighs in a 3.25oz. That's one big hunk of weight to be thrown on any line or rod. I would go no less than 20lb. fluoro if using a SKT Mag120. If you are going to throw that lure, you're going to need a specialized setup specifically for throwing that big of a bait. Whenever I suggested 12lb. fluoro for "deep diving" crankbaits, I was talking more along the lines of DT's, XD's, Wiggle Warts, DD22's, Shad Raps, etc.
As for throwing heavy cranks on braid with a fluoro leader, I do not suggest this. I learned this the hard way trying to throw DT16's one day. It worked fine for a few casts, eventually the shock and stretch from the casting motion broke off the heavy lure and sent it sailing off into never-ever land. This method may work fine for baits under 1/2oz. but I have had bad luck throwing 3/4oz+ lures with 12 and 14lb. fluoro leaders. It may work better if I were to go up to heavier line, but at that point I'm going to kill my depth and action of the bait.
As for your jerkbait setup, you're really killing the action of your jerkbait using a 20lb. fluoro leader. Anything higher than 12lb. test for jerkbaits will hinder the action and depth. I personally use 10lb. for my jerkbait needs 90% of the time.
On 3/8/2017 at 3:27 AM, fishraptor said:I'm still new to the game but things are slowing sinking in. The recommendations above I can understand but have a couple of q's about line selection.
Regarding line for deep diving Cranks (DD-22 & SKT Mag 120) - I know floro is great as it sinks and thinner is better to get down but instead of going with the 12lb Sunline Sniper recommended above does it make any sense to go with 30#braid with a nice long floro leader. My thinking is you will get a farther cast with braid, better bite sensitivity and braid is thin enough so water resistance I don't think will be an issue for obtaining deep depths, but that is only a guess.
Ditto that above philosophy on my Topwater rod. Use 30# braid w/mono leader. Braid for the distance and mono for the floatation as apposed to straight mono.
My Megabass Jerkbait rod - I have #30 Suffix 832 with a 20#floro leader. Again the same philosophy, braid for distance and floro for stealth.
I have 10# 832 Suffix on my Spinning NRX rig for finesse fishing but plan on putting floro leader on for stealth. I would guess 8lb leader ??
Suggesting using the 30# braid weight as I know lighter thinner braid will cut in spool so thinking of choosing 30# to alleviate
this problem and still get great casts. Since I have VERY little baitcasting time not sure what the "cutoff" of "too thin a braid" is ?
As you can see I am a big braid fan. This is still all new to me so look forward to your recommendations.
If I am off base just tell me. Thanks.
P.S. I do have a 1000 yard spool of Seaguar Inviszx so if that can be used in any of the equations above.....
30# suffix 832 braid is the same diameter of 12# invisx flouro. So no size/casting advantage there, just another leader knot to fail, plus braid floats.
Some topwater straight braid is perfect, but for walking type baits straight mono just works better, plus the little bit of stretch is normally better for treble lures.
Braid is great line, but it has drawbacks too. It has very little resistance to abraision for one, and the lack of stretch can be a drawback as well as advantage for some presentations such as cranks and moving lures. Its not a cure all, otherwise its all anyone would use.
I would use the invisx you mentioned for both the crankbaits and jerkbaits. The finess setup you mentioned sounds good though. Braid is much better on spinning tackle to avoid twisting and coiling.
I'll give another nod to 16lb sniper but my second choice would be 30lb braid with a leader depending on the conditions.
On 3/7/2017 at 7:06 PM, roadwarrior said:Treble hooks: Sunline Shooter Defier Armilo http://www.sunlineamerica.com/shooter-defier-armilo/
Single hooks: Seaguar Tatsu #10, #12 or #15 https://seaguar.com/shop-direct/shop_seaguar/tatsu.html
Hard to argue with this...but must say, I think you should reconsider. You could accomplish much more if you went with braid and a handful of leaders. Given some of the knots options, I don't see the benefit of you decision
I have been experimenting with braid/ leader combinations on several rigs and you are right!
This is "generally" the way to go. However, I think some presentations are still better with a
single mainline. I REALLY hate braid in the wind.
On 3/8/2017 at 4:02 AM, fishballer06 said:
You're talking a totally different animal whenever you're talking crankbaits. A DD22 is fine to throw on 12lb. fluoro, as it only weighs 5/8oz. However, that SKT MAG120 weighs in a 3.25oz. That's one big hunk of weight to be thrown on any line or rod. I would go no less than 20lb. fluoro if using a SKT Mag120. If you are going to throw that lure, you're going to need a specialized setup specifically for throwing that big of a bait. Whenever I suggested 12lb. fluoro for "deep diving" crankbaits, I was talking more along the lines of DT's, XD's, Wiggle Warts, DD22's, Shad Raps, etc.
As for throwing heavy cranks on braid with a fluoro leader, I do not suggest this. I learned this the hard way trying to throw DT16's one day. It worked fine for a few casts, eventually the shock and stretch from the casting motion broke off the heavy lure and sent it sailing off into never-ever land. This method may work fine for baits under 1/2oz. but I have had bad luck throwing 3/4oz+ lures with 12 and 14lb. fluoro leaders. It may work better if I were to go up to heavier line, but at that point I'm going to kill my depth and action of the bait.
As for your jerkbait setup, you're really killing the action of your jerkbait using a 20lb. fluoro leader. Anything higher than 12lb. test for jerkbaits will hinder the action and depth. I personally use 10lb. for my jerkbait needs 90% of the time.
Exact same problem happened to me with braking off a crankbait. Is using a braid-leader setup for jigs better than straight braid/fluoro? I just dont like throwing braid-leader because I feel like the leader knot is gonna break my guides when a cast... I used to fish it and the leader knot just felt "unsafe". Any reccommended knots?
On 3/7/2017 at 4:11 AM, fishballer06 said:Deep diving cranks - 12 lb. Sunline Sniper FC
Jigs medium size - 16-20 lb. Sunline Sniper FC (cover dependent)
Spinner/chatterbaits - 14lb. Sunline Sniper FC
For fishing 5xd/bandit 250, would 10# be better or worse?
On 3/8/2017 at 8:03 PM, Justin L. said:Is using a braid-leader setup for jigs better than straight braid/fluoro? I just dont like throwing braid-leader because I feel like the leader knot is gonna break my guides when a cast... I used to fish it and the leader knot just felt "unsafe". Any reccommended knots?
I never use braid/leader for jigs. It's either straight braid, or straight fluoro.
I use two different knots. The Seguar knot and the Alberto knot. Both have worked well for me. I usually only tie a leader about 15-24" long, but I know some guys will tie on a 10 foot leader. Because of the way I tie shorter leaders, I do not reel the knot up into the guides because it can weaken/damage both the knot and the guides. And if you use micro-guides, getting a knot to pass through is definitely a struggle.
QuoteFor fishing 5xd/bandit 250, would 10# be better or worse?
You can use 10lb. for cranks, sure. You'll certainly get better depth from the lure. However, the thinner the line, the more abrasion can effect the strength of that line. I'm one who normally grinds his crankbaits on the bottom, so I like have the comfort of a slightly thicker/stronger line.
On 3/8/2017 at 8:03 PM, Justin L. said:Is using a braid-leader setup for jigs better than straight braid/fluoro? I just dont like throwing braid-leader because I feel like the leader knot is gonna break my guides when a cast.
I use straight braid in stained water for jigs and havent noticed a difference. I use straight FC just as often.
I prefer straight FC or straight nylon for all moving baits. You really have to experiment to see what you like.
For one line to handle the baits in the subject, I'd go with sniper FC, probably 12#. That will be good for everything except heavy baits, heavy cover, frogs and topwater.
On 3/9/2017 at 12:11 PM, bigfruits said:
I use straight braid in stained water for jigs and havent noticed a difference. I use straight FC just as often.
I prefer straight FC or straight nylon for all moving baits. You really have to experiment to see what you like.
For one line to handle the baits in the subject, I'd go with sniper FC, probably 12#. That will be good for everything except heavy baits, heavy cover, frogs and topwater.
So just for reassurance, 12# sniper would be good for 1/4oz bitsy flips to 3/8 football heads?
bitsy bugs yes, 3/8oz football should be OK. there are better options for jigs to cover.
Food For Thought:
Braid has a specific gravity of 0.97, in other words, braid weighs only 3% less than water.
As a result, its more accurate to think of braid as neutrally buoyant line,
rather than high-floating line. When you combine neutrally buoyant line with a very thin diameter,
you've got a line that cuts through water just as it cuts through weeds.
When a lure is allowed to freefall to the bottom, a lure tied to fluorocarbon will make bottom contact
slightly ahead of a lure tied to braid.
On the other hand, as soon as you move the lure forward, water-resistance supersedes the influence
of specific gravity. When a lure is retrieved or trolled, the lure tied to polyethylene braid
is going to run deeper than the same lure tied to fluorocarbon.
This is due to the water-resistance generated by fluorocarbon's obese diameter,
which handily overrides any difference in specific gravity.
Roger
On 3/10/2017 at 5:02 AM, RoLo said:
Food For Thought:
Braid has a specific gravity of 0.97, in other words, braid weighs only 3% less than water.
As a result, its more accurate to think of braid as neutrally buoyant line,
rather than high-floating line. When you combine neutrally buoyant line with a very thin diameter,
you've got a line that cuts through water just as it cuts through weeds.
When a lure is allowed to freefall to the bottom, a lure tied to fluorocarbon will make bottom contact
slightly ahead of a lure tied to braid.
On the other hand, as soon as you move the lure forward, water-resistance supersedes the influence
of specific gravity. When a lure is retrieved or trolled, the lure tied to polyethylene braid
is going to run deeper than the same lure tied to fluorocarbon.
This is due to the water-resistance generated by fluorocarbon's obese diameter,which handily overrides any difference in specific gravity.
Roger
I am no expert by any means, but I have been using braid at the Cape for years and I agree TOTALLY with Rolo's comments above and have been using that thought process in my selections that I use. Now if we can just get them to make invisible "clear" braid all of our problems will be solved. We can throw all our knot books away, except for the one that holds out lures on.
On 3/10/2017 at 8:29 AM, fishraptor said:I am no expert by any means, but I have been using braid at the Cape for years and I agree TOTALLY with Rolo's comments above and have been using that thought process in my selections that I use. Now if we can just get them to make invisible "clear" braid all of our problems will be solved. We can throw all our knot books away, except for the one that holds out lures on.
I cannot get excited about 'invisible line', not until they invent 'invisible swivels',
'invisible weedguards', 'invisible rattleboxes', and oh yeah, invisible 'treble hooks'
I use Seagaur invisx or tatsu at 15 for all of those but shallow crankbaits and jerkbaits, which get 10. Top water gets 15 pound Seagaur rippin for mono. I used to use senshi.
Sunline Deifer Armillo Nylon 13 lb for a state of the art mono or Big Game 12 lb will work for all your presentations noted.
The reason braids floats is it's braid with very high surface tension and air content. Bass are rarely line shy fish why do you think a transparent braid would be a panacea line? Braided transparent Nylon line was popular back in the 50's.
Tom
12lb CXX. You can straighten out the hook on your chatter bait with it.
On 3/10/2017 at 5:02 AM, RoLo said:
Food For Thought:
Braid has a specific gravity of 0.97, in other words, braid weighs only 3% less than water.
As a result, its more accurate to think of braid as neutrally buoyant line,
rather than high-floating line. When you combine neutrally buoyant line with a very thin diameter,
you've got a line that cuts through water just as it cuts through weeds.
When a lure is allowed to freefall to the bottom, a lure tied to fluorocarbon will make bottom contact
slightly ahead of a lure tied to braid.
On the other hand, as soon as you move the lure forward, water-resistance supersedes the influence
of specific gravity. When a lure is retrieved or trolled, the lure tied to polyethylene braid
is going to run deeper than the same lure tied to fluorocarbon.
This is due to the water-resistance generated by fluorocarbon's obese diameter,which handily overrides any difference in specific gravity.
Roger
Absolutely spot on. One caveat to think about though is that if you use braid for slow slack line presentation it's tendency to float will give a very different direction of pull to a flurocarbon line in the same situation. Sometimes this is a disadvantage, sometimes an advantage. The fluoro will be a much more direct or possibly even downwards movement where the braid will tend to lift a bait off the bottom more.