I’ve seen tactical bassin uses all braid and then 8 foot or so leader for all their set ups. But many people on the tour seem to spool up with all fluro/ the other half does braid backing them fills the last 1/4 or so of the reel with fluro. I guess what I’m asking is what is the best appoarch and why?
On 4/12/2018 at 9:41 PM, GoneFishingLTN said:But many people on the tour seem to spool up with all fluro/ the other half does braid backing them fills the last 1/4 or so of the reel with fluro.
Please clarify. Are you asking about backing? Or leaders? Or both?
I gave up on fluoro. I just don't like it. I either use all mono (for trebles) or braid with no more than a 5' mono leader. The water here has a permanent stain most places. I'll use all braid for frogs and maybe jigs/worms if it's heavy cover or really grassy or if my leader breaks and I'm out in the kayak. I've only broken 2 braid-to-mono leaders at the knot. I waited too long to retie it. I'm still not really convinced that fish here are shy of braid.
I’m trying to ask what is the best approach. Is it what tactical does with all braid and just a fluro leader or is it something else?
I try and use them all - with good knots I don't think it matters - like most of fishing what you have confidence in is what will work for you. Try them all and build confidence one way or the other.
On 4/12/2018 at 10:33 PM, GoneFishingLTN said:I’m trying to ask what is the best approach. Is it what tactical does with all braid and just a fluro leader or is it something else?
If you look through the "Fishing Rods, Reel, Line and Knots" forum (which is where I expect this thread to end up shortly), you will find a few dozen discussions on this very topic, and you will probably read enough conflicting answers that you will realize that it's most a matter of personal preference. Like almost everything about bass fishing, there is rarely a "best" way to do anything, because too many methods work to catch bass.
I personally prefer to put the fewest knots possible between my reel and my lure. Less weakening of the line, and less time to change baits when change is needed. I snip off about a foot of line to account for any wear, then tie direct. The only place I use braid at the moment is on my spinning rod.
Why are some people adamant about not using regular floro for leader? What is the difference between floro and leader floro? and also mono vs. leader mono?
I think you should do what you have confidence in. There are ups and downs about everything. They generally are fishing clear lake. May what works best for them but will work every where else as well. Is it necesary I cant say. Just falls upon what you feel whats best.
May be something useful in these couple of ancient threads:
I use a 6-7 foot flouro leader since I fish lakes with really clear water.
Never a leader. The weakest part is the knot. I will use a mono backing so the line doesn’t spin on the spool, but never a leader.
I run exactly what tactical does. All braid on all my setups and then either a mono or flouro leader based upon technicque I'm setting the rod up for. Only ever broke one knot but that was with a Uni-uni. I now use the crazy Alberto knot and I've never had one problem with it on hundreds fish, and ive bent hooks straight with it. I see no downside to this. I replace line wayyy less, cast farther, and Have much more sensitivity.
On 4/12/2018 at 10:47 PM, RPreeb said:If you look through the "Fishing Rods, Reel, Line and Knots" forum (which is where I expect this thread to end up shortly), you will find a few dozen discussions on this very topic, and you will probably read enough conflicting answers that you will realize that it's most a matter of personal preference. Like almost everything about bass fishing, there is rarely a "best" way to do anything, because too many methods work to catch bass.
^^^ Best answer!
Your style, the current conditions and type of fishing all impact this. All will work some are better than some depending on your equipment. How good are your knots.
What I am asking is, is Floro leader material different than just Floro? Some people say don't just use any floro for leader. Why is that? Sorry for all the questions
On 4/13/2018 at 1:41 AM, All Day Fishing said:What I am asking is, is Floro leader material different than just Floro? Some people say don't just use any floro for leader. Why is that? Sorry for all the questions
It's supposed to be, or at least believed to be, but I've seen some independent testing that suggests that's not always the case. Generally leader material is expected to be bit stiffer with better abrasion resistance. Personally, I don't bother with it, but can understand why some do.
On 4/13/2018 at 2:43 AM, Team9nine said:It's supposed to be, or at least believed to be, but I've seen some independent testing that suggests that's not always the case. Generally leader material is expected to be bit stiffer with better abrasion resistance. Personally, I don't bother with it, but can understand why some do.
In the case of Seaguar it is different than most lines, save their Finesse and Tatsu lines, in that it's a dual formula resin. Seaguar is the only maker to make their own resins specifically for the purpose of fishing line. For leader material, they use a hard outside resin, and and a softer interior formula. It's supposed to offer better abrasion resistance than reel fill (it does), while still being supple. Leader doesn't seem what I'd call supple, compared to reel fill, though I bet they are using more of the tougher outer resin.
So flouro coated flouo. Charge twice the price
On 4/13/2018 at 3:18 AM, Angry John said:So flouro coated flouo.
Not coated. It's a dual resin extrusion.
On 4/13/2018 at 3:42 AM, J Francho said:Not coated. It's a dual resin extrusion.
Just having a giggle.
J Franco is correct. It has a core of one material then an outer layer. It is a way for Seaguar to find line qualities between all abrasion resistance and all concern over suppleness. Seaguar is one of only 3 or 4 fluorocarbon makers I'd even consider. Most of the rest? My guess a whole lot of them are private labeled lines from someone else.
Speaking of multiple layers, Keitech is now doing this same thing with one of its worms where it has a different material density in the core area and another for the outside skin. Pretty cool.
For lines and lures, this just gives us more range of options.
Brad
My understanding from Seaguar is that it isn't layered, exactly. It's more a transition. That's probably what contributes to what I feel when I refer to Tatsu and Finesse "locking down" with a measured amount of stretch. I'm not really sure how to say it, so.. At any rate, those two reel fill lines and the leader material are made different than most other reel fill lines. I hope that was all as clear as mud.
Also, I feel like I recall someone doing something similar to the Keitech baits. Berkley, maybe? Anyone recall?
I'm not exactly sure what the question is, but Tactical advocates greatly different leader lengths depending on the technique. I would argue if you want to debate straight fluoro vs using a long leader it probably be dependent on your personal preference and fishing style. I personally do what Tactical does and run all braid to a leader, although I am never running a leader longer than 8 feet usually. But that's because of the techniques I am usually using. I don't jig spoons in 50-60 feet of water like they talk about in their leader video where they run 40 foot leaders. All that being said, I've always felt rod choice was the most important factor for a technique. You can run 12lb mono all day fishing crankbaits on a pool cue and you will struggle to land fish, or you can frog on a parabolic medium rod and run 65lb braid, and you probably won't hook a single fish.
Yeah sorry everyone for the confusion. Basically all I was saying is I’m a bit confused because
1. Tactical does all braid at different test (technique depending) then either a small leader of some sort either fluro or mono
2. Some do like half the spool of mono backing then whatever fluro they want (side note do they change the pound of mono backing like tactical does technique depending?) what pound of mono is good for backing/also What band to you reccomend?
3. And lastly some people just run all fluro then leave half of what they put on for the backing for next time.
So I was wondering what is the most common one that the pros do. I would think tactical does the braid because it’s cheaper in the long run? So they save a little money with clients Ik it also has some benefits But figure that’s the main reason
People that back their Bradenton with Mono of FC do so to save money and stop slippage.
Others will use all braid the first time spooling and replace the last 75-100 yards as nessessary. The theory is that longer cast are generated with braid.
I used to back my braid set-up with mono and have since changed to all FC since I do take rods to the coast and want the strength of braid, right up to the moment that I get spooled.
Another thing to consider is that many now are going to shallow spools, and that is reason enough to tie braid to the spool
I used to use mono backing, but have gone straight braid
over the past couple years. All reels have braided mainline
and all reels have a leader of either Gamma Edge fluoro or
Yo-Zuri Hybrid. Braid is more cost effective for me as it
will last much longer, and using a leader means I cut into
the mainline less when changing baits...
I never worry about my knot, 100% confidence in the
uni-to-uni. Can't remember last time it broke on me.
I think the blonde dude on tac bassn uses braid to leaders and the other only on spinning gear. I think its a personal preference that people develope over time. Personally i only use leaders on spinning tackle. I am considering useing short mono leaders for top water trebble hook baits.
I may have already posted this, that the pro bass anglers often throw straight fluorocarbon on casting and spinning reels . . . because they have line sponsors and many of them have unlimited access to these lines. Expense is not an issue. So, they change out often, and fresh fluorocarbon after a good stretch is pretty decent line for casting and other handling issues. Where most of us "mortals" have issues is how it performs over time when it sits on a reel.
The "knot being the weakest link" idea. So very true. But, if you re-tie a leader always taking out a fresh leader, even re-tying on the water if you are fishing areas known to be rough on lines, or have caught quite a few fish . . . a junction leader knot is likely to be at least equal to, not inferior to, the issues with abraded line from wear and tear on well-used lines. My point here is a fresh 8' leader, the knot required to attach it, is likely no more problematic, no more susceptible to breakage than the last 8 feet of any straight mainline fished with (braid, mono or fluoro) that is all nicked up. Leaders do require good knots. If you can't tie one very accurately, you could have issues for sure.
A 150 yard spool of, say, Seaguar Invizx, will give you 56 eight feet leaders. Pretty cheap used this way.
Brad
Braid as backing? Never heard that one.
I use braid for main line on every setup for 2 reasons. I want the 'give' to be in my rod, not my line, and braid IMO is much easier to handle and cast due to no line memory. Typical leader length for me is 5-8 ft.
I only use a bit of old mono to lock the braid to the arbor. I don’t back my fluoro reels with anything. The connection knot is annoying. For braid, no leader in weeds, leader for wood and rocks.
On 4/17/2018 at 8:51 PM, Brad in Texas said:A 150 yard spool of, say, Seaguar Invizx, will give you 56 eight feet leaders. Pretty cheap used this way.
Only if you can tie them with a 3" tag...
There is no right or wrong, it comes down to preference really. I like braid to leader because it casts better (less line twist) and you can switch up your leader size as appropriate. Running straight flurocarbon can be a little cheaper and quicker to spool up as you don't have to buy mono backing, braid than leader.
Line choice really is very personal. If you don’t know any better, and what you’re using is working, then that’s the best. It’s when you encounter some situation where things are failing and you’re losing fish that we all try to find the culprit and fix it.
Its not the line. It’s the system. Look at everything, and figure what’s what. No ones advice in here is wrong, but it might not take into account what’s going on under the water in your lake.
Theres a a ton of experience in these threads. Distill that into your system.