Back into it: Looking for guidance on a setup. 2025

Nattyboh74 reply :

Hey guys,

So as most of us, we have fished when we were younger with anything that we got our hands on. A rod was a rod... Now that Im a bit older and life's slowing down some, Im looking to get back into Bass fishing. I went to Bass Pro and there are WAYY too many options to choose from. Ive done some reading on here and and get a general idea on whats what, but Im looking to stream line a bit, rod/reel wise.

I would be fishing 95% from the shore. so Id say make the decision on that. Also 95% bass fishing, maybe some Crappie/Perch ( if you can mix them into the same catagory... )

Ive never used a bait caster and dont want to learn as of yet. So Id be looking for 2-3 rod/reel setups for now. I dont want to spend much, but also I dont want something cheap. There is a lot of technology out there that you could take advantage of by bumping up just a bit, budget wise. So whatever would fit that bill, Id be interesting in checking out. I guess around 100$ for each rod..?

Id be fishing plastic worms ( senko, lizard etc ) on one rod, top water ( poppers, frogs etc ) on one and another for heavy stuff like cranks, spinners ( would jigs fall in here? ). I dont know where to go with this all, hence the post. I wanted to ask people that have experience in this as I dont want to buy something and it just does perform, or I mismatch components.

Could there be a rod that would take the place of all three? That would get me out there sooner and save money. Or many just two rods, one worm and one hard bait?

I would also need reels obviously, but only spinning. Now is it worth to say spend more on a rod and go cheaper on a reel or vice versa? There has to be a balance point somewhere... Any and all help, Id appreciate it.

Thanks guys. Looking forward to reading some stuff here.

RichF reply :

First off, welcome to the forums and back to bass fishing!

I'm not much of a spinning rod guy but I can offer a little help, I think. The $100 rod market is massive nowadays and not one that I have a ton of experience with in all honesty. I know some of the most popular rods in that category are going to the Abu Garcia Veritas, *** *** Blacks, and the Dobyns Fury line. Two rods that I think would cover most of the techniques you mentioned would be a 7'0 medium and 7'0 medium-heavy. They won't be perfect for everything but they're a good start. The medium could be used for small cranks, small topwater plugs, jerkbaits and light texas rigged plastics like senkos. The medium-heavy could be used for small spinnerbaits/bladed jigs, possibly frogs, and lighter jigs. Big, heavy stuff, IMO, is tough with spinning tackle.

Braid would be a good choice for line. Maybe 15lb on the medium and 20lb - 30lb on the medium heavy. A lot of guys will suggest a fluorocarbon leader also. As for reels, I'm a big Shimano fan, so I would recommend them. You can get some pretty decent ones on sale right now in the $60 - $100 range. Look at the Sahara, Symetre, or the NASCI in the 2500 size. Another decent sub-$100 reel is the Pflueger President and President XT. Those are really popular and run $60 and $80 respectively.

Nattyboh74 reply :

Thanks Rich, appreciate it. Yeah there is a lot out there to learn now that Im looking to get back into it. Too many options and confusion sets in fast, haha. How is the Mojo St.Croix? I was sad to see it was made in Mexico, as Im a big pusher of pro-USA made gear ( in all hobbies, when possible ). Fenwick HCM any good either? All in all thanks for the post.

RichF reply :

I'm a big St. Croix fan and I would definitely give a nod to the Mojo, especially now that they're made on a SCIII blank. Never tried any Fenwicks but I've heard pretty good things. Check out the flea market forum. I just saw a couple Fenwick Aetos spinning rods for sale. That's one of Fenwick's top tier models. Again, I've never used one, but they get rave reviews for their aesthetics and performance.

Nattyboh74 reply :

Once again thanks. Hopefully I'll get more people in here!

I'm always down to buy good used stuff, I don't have a problem with that.

new2BC4bass reply :

Did you read this stickie?

A couple lower cost rods that get good reviews are the Berkley Lightning and Lightning Shock and the Ethos H20 rods...which go on sale a few times a year. The Veritas 2.0 for a bit more is also well liked. In the $100 range I like my Fenwick HMG rods. There are several rods at this price point that are said to be pretty good for the money....such as the Powell Inferno and Falcon Bucoo. A few here have been recommending the Dobyns Fury at $110. Sportsman's Outfitters still has a couple models of the original Tatula spinning rods left at $110. I've not used a Tatula spinning rod, but own a few of the baitcast rods and have to say they are extremely nice. Personally I think they were well worth the $150 list price.

I am going to assume that $110 is going to be the most you would be willing to spend so I will forego mentioning any higher priced rods. There are 2 things you should do. 1) Keep an eye out for closeout sales and 2) keep an eye on the For Sale forums. Both can lead to some pretty good deals. My most expensive rod was on closeout. A $300 Daiwa spinning rod for $75 shipped.

EDIT: Stickie says "Baitcast rods", but it would still apply for spinning rods.

Nattyboh74 reply :

Thanks. So just transfer the info from that thread and replace baitcaster with spinning and it'll all be the same?

I'm just having a hard time figuring out the medium light etc and the fast etc options..

And I'd probably get two rods , one worm and one crank

new2BC4bass reply :

According to what ww2farmer says, the Lightning Shock is quite versatile.

Read posts from fishnkamp and smalljaw67

My only experience is with the original Lightning. It is a 6 foot spinning rod rated 1/8-3/8 oz. that caught more fish in my youth than all the fish I have caught since getting back into fishing in '09. I do have a 6' MHF Lightning baitcast rod that is dedicated to spinnerbaits.

As I said, I like my HMG rods. Fenwick makes a 6'6" & 7' MF rated 1/4-3/4 oz. that should work for plastics. I have a couple ML rods, but don't feel they are as versatile as a Medium for bass fishing. Guess it would depend on the weights you plan on using. BTW, that 1/4-3/4 oz. rating is what I consider a MH in my baitcasting rods. Most of my Medium baitcasting rods top out at 5/8 oz. Some ML spinning rods top out at the same weight.

As you have already discovered, there are plenty of options open to you. Some of the store brand rods can offer good value for the money. I can't help you with store brand rods although I do have 3-4 of Cabela's Prodigy casting rods. They are a decent rod....especially considering I got them on sale.

Nattyboh74 reply :

More info... Thanks

d-camarena reply :

A really good kayak rod is the berkley amp. Cheap and durable

bigfruits reply :

id get 2 $175 rods and work up from there, especially if you think you are in for the long run. Avids or Mojos maybe. if you ever decide to upgrade from that, they will make excellent moving bait rods. buying used is not a bad idea, you will still have the goldstar plan.

$100 will still get you a great rod if you are not sure how often you will go fishing. i'd still only buy two to start.

6'8"-7'3" Med Fast spinning

6'8"-7'3" MH Fast casting

no problem if you want to go spinning on both. a cheaper spinning reel is better than a cheaper BC reel in my opinion. id look at shimano.

you can get away with a fast rod with shallow and med diving cranks but i wouldnt use braid.

not that you asked but Yo-Zuri Hybrid is a great all-around line and very cheap.

WRB reply :

I am not a fan of using spinning outfits for lures that require line ( mono or FC ) over 10 lb test or .010 diameter. For me spinning tackle for bass are finesse presentations. Line over .012 dia or bass lures weights over 3/8 oz I prefer bait casting.

Gary Yamamoto of Gary Yamamoto Custum Baits, GYCB, was a successful professional tournament bass and he only uses spinning tackle, so that proves it can be done.

If I had to use 3 spinning outfits they would be a ML (medium light), M ( medium) and MH (medium heavy) rods between 6'6" to 7' long, lots of good choices around $100-$120.

Reels, I would use a size 1000/1500 for the MH, 2000/2500 for both M & MH rods. I prefer Shimano spinning reels, pick a model within your budget.

Because you plan to use multiple types of lures that will twist your line using spinning reels and you fish from shore, I would use braid main line with mono leaders. I also like Fins WindTamer braid, 12 lb for ML, 20 lb for M & MH. Any premium mono in 6 lbs for ML, 10 for M and 15 for MH.

Tom

Nattyboh74 reply :

Good stuff there. It's late here, so tomorrow I have more research to do.

I may end up getting mojo's... But may get just two rods. I can add more if I see the need.

If I were to get two, maybe a med and med/light?

Fast or extra fast? This would be if getting two rods.

http://m.basspro.com/St-Croix-Mojo-Bass-Spinning-Rod/product/2244876/

Nattyboh74 reply :

Also on a side note, again this is all new to me again. I see the braided line you can step up on weight and go to a smaller diameter line. Great.

But reading about using straight braid seems to be a no no. I don't trust my self on using leaders yet. Although the Alberto knot seems easy... I guess when storing the rod, you can reel in that Alberto knot without issue? Stupid question, but thought I'd ask.

So is there a line that will work and not need a leader?Just get mono or FC ? Is that what that Yo Zuri recommendation was towards?

fishwizzard reply :

If I were staring over I would buy a singe 6'6" M/F spinning rod, any major brand in the $100 range. Look for a used Shimano Stradic FJ/FK reel in either 1000 or 2000 size.

This is probably the most "middle of the road" combo out there and after fishing this for a season you should have a really good idea what you want your next rod to to be in terms of power, length, and action.

Darren. reply :

Welcome aboard!

First. Braid. Straight braid is not a no-no, plenty do it and

with great success. For ME, I don't like cutting into my

pricey braid so I always use a leader anywhere from 4-15#

test.

I'm a mostly-spinning guy, and I would not recommend one

rod for all the techniques you want to throw. Plenty of good

rods can be had at $50-100, with the $100 being the sweet

spot in quality/sensitivity of blanks. I have St. Croix (USA-made)

models in MLF and MLXF - Premier and Legend Tournament.

The Premier is a fine rod. I've been using mine for Ned rigs,

wacky, and so forth. Plenty sensitive and around $120.

I also use Bass Pro Carbonlites. Excellent for $100 and often

on sale.

Actions: ML/F or ML/XF, M/F or M/XF, MH

You can get away with jig, cranks and such on a M power rod

but it isn't optimal. Look for MXF if you're going with one rod.

MH would be better.

Nattyboh74 reply :

Darren,

When you say I can get away with them on a M rod, what do you mean? Should I be going heavier or lighter? I could get by with two rods, no?

I know I'll be using plastic worms no doubt, but I'd like to use crank baits , jigs, spinners if possible too. Just to open the borders of what I COULD be fishing with if that makes sense.

And on line, are you saying that to use braid, but run a leader?

Appreciate it fellas. Great community here...

RichF reply :

You will be able to cover a lot with a medium and medium heavy spinning. Just remember, jigs, cranks, and spinners can mean a lot of things. What specifically do you plan on throwing? Small cranks will be fine on spinning but I wouldn't throw anything that runs deeper than 6ft. Deeper diving cranks won't be fun to throw on spinning tackle. There are also a million different types of jigs and not all of them will work on spinning tackle. Same with spinners. Are you talking about inline spinners or spinnerbaits? Oh, and straight braid is completely fine. I used it for years when I was younger and had zero issues.

It's best to not get too crazy with gear until you start getting more experienced. There's so much stuff out there, it will make your head spin pretty quickly.

Nattyboh74 reply :

I would want to use whatever would work on those rods. If I can run a 6' diver, then okay that's it. Same with spinners, I'd like to throw spinner baits of possible.

I guess I should get two rods MF MH F and then pair them up with line and then find baits that are compatible

Darren. reply :

On 6/2/2017 at 9:20 PM, Nattyboh74 said:

Darren,

When you say I can get away with them on a M rod, what do you mean? Should I be going heavier or lighter? I could get by with two rods, no?

A MXF rod will have a stiffer tip, for a stouter hookset than a MF rod. I meant if you only get one, you can get away with a MXF. MHF would be more ideal for heavier lure.

I know I'll be using plastic worms no doubt, but I'd like to use crank baits , jigs, spinners if possible too. Just to open the borders of what I COULD be fishing with if that makes sense.

And on line, are you saying that to use braid, but run a leader?

Yes. That's ideal to me as #1 you save cutting/retying your braid when you need to tie on a new lure or hook. #2 being able to change leader pound test means you can do different presentations. Tough bite, go with a 6 or 8# copoly or fluoro leader. In tough timber? Tie on a heavier pound test. You can vary the length as well. I tie one to two arm lengths. Some like shorter, some longer. Some go really long like 20' (Gary Yamamoto). I think of it as a versatile utility for spinning gear. Saves money since u only cut in to the leader to retie (unless u tie new leader). I like 10# and 15# test Power Pro or Power Pro Super Slick 8. I tie Yo Zuri Hybrid and Gamma Edge fluoro the most as my leader line.

Appreciate it fellas. Great community here...

MickD reply :

Rods are rated by two different characteristics, power and action.

Power refers to how much force it takes to deflect it. Heavy takes more than medium heavy takes more than medium takes more than medium light etc. A measure of this is the recommended lure weight and the recommended line pound test. The most important thing is to get a power that is about in the middle of the lure range you plan to use. That way the rod will load properly on the cast and will cast more easily.

Action refers to where in the rod the initial deflection takes place. The descriptive terms are fast, medium, and slow, with extra thrown in to describe the ends of the action spectrum. If the initial deflection is limited to the tip and doesn't go far down the blank, that is an extra fast or fast action. A medium fast goes farther down the blank. A medium goes even farther. A slow will show deflection going way down the blank. Traditional fly rods are an extreme of the descriptor "slow action."

Jigging, finesse fishing of plastics, spinnerbaits are fished best with fast or extra fast action, with the power dependent on the weight of the lures to get good loading.

Treble hook baits, cranks, surface, etc, are fished best on a medium action or medium fast. These actions may be a little easier to cast. But more important than action is the matching of the power to your lure weights. If I were going to cast a large range of lures I would get two different powers in either fast or medium fast, or one of each depending on my lure plans. Since you are fishing from shore with a long line, it would be better to go with faster actions rather than slower in order to get a better hook set.

Since you are sort of new, don't bother trying to get a baitcaster to work. I love to use them, but I've been doing since I was a kid, and they are not difficult for me. But to start with BC is not something I would recommend if you want to fish instead of get frustrated.

Since you are shore fishing go with straight braid (for distance) at first, mottle the last few feet of line with a sharpie to camoflage it, and stick with about 15 pound test of a name brand braid. You will have to learn a couple good knots for braid, as it is slicker than mono and the right knots are critical . No way around it. Don't go above 15 pound test as it will cost you distance. Stay away from flourocarbon line, too many troublesome variables. Many can make it work, many more cannot. FC leaders are ok because they don't get onto the reel. Double uni knots are easy and reliable for tying FC leaders to braid.

With spinning the rod is more important than the reel, IMO. Your first priority should be to get the rod power you want, then the action, then the reel. Don't be afraid of BPS and Cabelas or other companies' combo deals. They are a good way to save $$. I would stick to name brand reels like Shimano, Daiwa, and Abu garcia. There are others as well. Some reel servicers do not service off brand reels.

There are many opinions on this, and there is merit in many of them. This opinion of mine is my attempt to take into consideration first and foremost your description of your background and what you are trying to accomplish.

Nattyboh74 reply :

Thanks for that reply. Explained a lot. Let me ask you think. I was thinking of the St.croix Avid since it's lifetime warranty and made in the USA.

Should I spend more on say the worm rod or a cranking rod, if that makes sense?

If there is a bass pro cheap-er rod out there then I could save money that could go toward everything else.

Also when you're talking about the weight of the lure, and matching it to the power of the rod. Is there a chart out there for say a med. fast and med. heavy rods?

Are those two rod weights good or should I get med heavy and med light? Or another combo?

Can I truly get by with two rods now and honestly be alright? If so, which one of the avid would suffice, length etc wise?

Thanks Mick

Edited: I think I'm going with a Pflueger President 6930 ( or is the 6935 better for bass ) . With 12# power pro, maybe go with 15#? I don't need to do line backing as of yet, right?

Maybe there is another reel around that price that may be better?

bigfruits reply :

you want to spend more on your plastics rod as the sensitivity will be more important. for moving baits its not needed but is nice to have!

cant vouch for the presidents but ive heard good things about them.

the power of the rod not only matters for lure weights but also the type of stuff you will be throwing the baits into.

what part of the country to do you live in? if you have a lot of grass and a lot of cover to fish in, youre going to want a MH. ML is only good for finesse and light moving baits. not good at getting heavier hooks buried. i would not fish any of the baits in your first post on a ML except a small topwater maybe.

There are some big differences in power ratings between different manufacturers. A St. Croix Med, for example, is more powerful than a G Loomis Med.

i'd buy the third rod after youve spent some time fishing your local waters and decide if you need a heavy for the heavier cover and/or larger baits or a med light for finesse fishing and light weight trebles.

Nattyboh74 reply :

Thanks buddy. I'm located in Maryland and will be fishing in central MD and the rivers and creeks for bass, 95% of the time.

I think two avids may be the best bet, what seems to be good quality, beat warranty. It's one rod forever essentially.

I think I would be using more plastic worms than cranks. But I'd like to be able to throw a frog or spinnerbait/buzz or popper. Hence me getting two rods.

MickD reply :

I agree that your finesse rod, where sensitivity is of most importance, would be where to put the money, like the Avid. Rods for cranking are not critical for sensitivity. I also agree that ML is not a good power to buy if you are limited in the number of rods. Its value is too limited. But I would not recommend a MH power unless you are going to cast lures in the range that the MH recommends. You want the rod to load properly. Longer rods generally will give you longer casts. You asked about backing. A few things to know about braid. It is very slippery, so if you try to tie it directly to the spool, it tends to slip, causing the whole spool of line to rotate relative to the spool. So many use backing of mono, also with a piece of tape , to fasten the line to the spool securely, then tie the braid on with double uni knots (easy/reliable knot). Keep the knot well buried so it doesn't catch the line when casting. braid lasts a long time, often years. when it gets looking sort of worn, cut a few feet off, then reverse it on the spool and you're good to go again. Two Avids would be great.

On 6/3/2017 at 9:13 AM, Nattyboh74 said:

Also when you're talking about the weight of the lure, and matching it to the power of the rod. Is there a chart out there for say a med. fast and med. heavy rods?

There is no chart. Keep in mind that power ratings are sort of subjective. As stated by someone a St. Croix medium power will be a little more powerful than most others. I would give priority to the lure weight recommendations.

Pflueger reels are highly regarded by many on this forum, and they are smooth, have good drags. I have one and the only thing I dislike about it is that it appears that the spool lip is located farther forward relative to the stem than Daiwas and Shimanos. This is personal preference, but you might want to evaluate this in person, reels in hand.

You can easily get by with only two rods. Get started that way, then let your experience guide you as to whether you need more.

Nattyboh74 reply :

Thanks Mick,

So my intentions were to pick up two Avids, for some reason I thought that they were 149$. Thats why I was amazed for $20 more I could step up to a USA made rod with liftime warranty bersus the MOjo Bass.

I think I'll get the Mojo bass rod instead. seems to still get great reviews.

With that being said, they only have four options:

ML/EF

M/EF

M/F

MH/F

Would the recommendation of buying a MH/F and M/F still stand true, or would the recommendation change/should I go ML?

On a side note: Maybe I should step up to a St.Croix Avid in M/F for Finesse/Worm and get something cheap like a $50 rod ( Berkley Lightning Rod ) for cranking stuff? Would still use the Pflueger Pres. reel, Or would the two Mojos be a better all around?

fishwizzard reply :

I am likely to be the lone vote for ML, but I love fishing small, light plastics. Most of my favorites are so thin/soft that hooksets are not an issue with a good sharp hook. I do fish a lot of spots with open water or very sparse cover, so your local conditions might not be as favorable, but I really enjoy the light stuff. I would honestly go MH and ML, so you still have a lot of lure options at both ends.

Nattyboh74 reply :

Im also located in MD. Just saw that. I thought maybe a M and MH would be close in specs. The ML and MH would spread it out a bit. But Im going to base my decision off the mass. I would most likely be fishing worms and top water most often. Jigs would be nice too.

fishwizzard reply :

The same. So yea, a ton of the little ponds and lakes around here are good for finesse bassing. Even the Little Pax has enough smaller bass to be interesting. However, I am finding that I am needing heavier gear than I first thought in order to keep my options open during the summer. A lot of spots get enough cover to really limit lure options. But honestly, while there are some nice fish around here, they take a lot of work. Being able to grab a light rod and go catch a dozen one to two pounders on a Ned or small spinnerbait has saved many afternoons for me. I do own a decent M/XF spinning rod, but I only really use it for flukes and more often than not I grab a lighter or heavier option on my way out the door.

Nattyboh74 reply :

Yeah, that is ONE thing that did scare me away a while back from fishing. There wasnt much going on here size wise. Im hoping if I get back into it, it wont be that all over again!

Nattyboh74 reply :

Thanks Mick,

So my intentions were to pick up two Avids, for some reason I thought that they were 149$. Thats why I was amazed for $20 more I could step up to a USA made rod with lifetime warranty versus the MOjo Bass.

I think I'll get the Mojo bass rod instead. seems to still get great reviews.

With that being said, they only have four options:

ML/EF

M/EF

M/F

MH/F

Would the recommendation of buying a MH/F and M/F still stand true, or would the recommendation change/should I go ML?

What size Pflueger PrResident reel on both rods? Go 30 or 35? 15 and 20# respectively?

EDITED:

I updated a new thread: Im pretty much ready to buy in the next day or so: See the link below.

LCG reply :

I have a st Croix mojo bass 6'8" mxf and 6'9"fenwick hmg mlf.

I find this a versatile set up. St Croix is perfect for finesse and the fenwick doubles as finesse, small jerkbaits and cranks, and in line spinners.

Quarry Man reply :

On 6/2/2017 at 12:00 AM, RichF said:

First off, welcome to the forums and back to bass fishing!

I'm not much of a spinning rod guy but I can offer a little help, I think. The $100 rod market is massive nowadays and not one that I have a ton of experience with in all honesty. I know some of the most popular rods in that category are going to the Abu Garcia Veritas, *** *** Blacks, and the Dobyns Fury line. Two rods that I think would cover most of the techniques you mentioned would be a 7'0 medium and 7'0 medium-heavy. They won't be perfect for everything but they're a good start. The medium could be used for small cranks, small topwater plugs, jerkbaits and light texas rigged plastics like senkos. The medium-heavy could be used for small spinnerbaits/bladed jigs, possibly frogs, and lighter jigs. Big, heavy stuff, IMO, is tough with spinning tackle.

Braid would be a good choice for line. Maybe 15lb on the medium and 20lb - 30lb on the medium heavy. A lot of guys will suggest a fluorocarbon leader also. As for reels, I'm a big Shimano fan, so I would recommend them. You can get some pretty decent ones on sale right now in the $60 - $100 range. Look at the Sahara, Symetre, or the NASCI in the 2500 size. Another decent sub-$100 reel is the Pflueger President and President XT. Those are really popular and run $60 and $80 respectively.

This is very helpful! i like the OMN and a nasty, looks solid for 225$ rod reel line

3866

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