Help Me Maximize My Casting Distance. Reel Upgrades, Bearings Etc? 2024
Roadblock reply :
I would like to maximize my casting distance so I can spend more time cranking and less time casting. Also it would be nicer to pull my baits over a greater distance to increase the chances of actually getting more fish!
I have a 2014 Shimano Curado 200I on a St. Croix 7" Crankbait Mojo Bass rod. I'm currently running 20lb Power Pro Slick 8 line, I also have the same line in 15lb but I've not tried it yet.
If I had to guess, I'm casting 60~75 feet? I use 5/16 and 3/8 crankbaits.
Looking at some Hawgtech bearings for my reel. Would those make a noticeable difference?
Was watching this video, seems less drag would help..?
Alonerankin2 reply :
I don't know if it matters really, but I can throw 3/8 crank about 100' on a loomis CBR but I don't throw braid... It's either yo #8 or copoly.. Much less than that and I now throw it on spinning, I use to could throw 1/8 ristos bout 60' but it was hard ( calcutta 50 )... Not sure on the bearings, I do fine with my stock bearings
bootytrain reply :
What are your brake settings
iabass8 reply :
flush your bearings and use a super small drop or oil or adjust your brakes/get better /w your thumb. I had the mojo crankbait rod years ago and used a 200 sized curado at a time on it. I could cast a kvd 1.5 (around 3/8oz) further than I ever wanted to. By the weights you described, I'm assuming you're using shallow cranks. Distance is the least of your concerns. Accuracy>distance.
Loop_Dad reply :
Not familiar with your rod and no experience with Curado I, but if you are correct about your estimate of casting, and if your rod is of correct range for the lure weight, I would bet you're using too much break. I back off the break way more than what the manual say and control the over run by thumb (at the peak of the speed and at the end especially.)
Actually what is the lure rating of the rod?
Roadblock reply :
It's rated for 3/8 to 1oz, Medium-Heavy action.
I have the brake set to 2 on, 2 off and then the adjustment knob is at setting 2.
I don't think the brake is the issue because if I don't manually brake my spool it will spit out line after the crankbaits hit the water so the point of bird-nesting.
Most of my cranks are shallow, yes. I think the deepest I use it 5 feet. I prefer most of them around 5/16 in weight. Been using Ike's Rapla DT-4's a lot lately.
I can cast them father on my Shimano TX-110Q (1985 era spinning reel) and a Quantum Smoke PT40 spinning reel.
This is my FIRST baitcaster and I'm still learning. I have gotten casting down to the point that I can put them where I want them within the range I know it "can" cast for me, I'm no longer getting backlash or anything either. I pretty much have casting down, I just expected it to go father.
Bluebasser86 reply :
Send your reel to DVT and have him supertune your reel, it's made a HUGE difference in my casting distance.
CJV reply :
On 8/11/2014 at 12:24 PM, Roadblock said:It's rated for 3/8 to 1oz, Medium-Heavy action.
I have the brake set to 2 on, 2 off and then the adjustment knob is at setting 2.
I don't think the brake is the issue because if I don't manually brake my spool it will spit out line after the crankbaits hit the water so the point of bird-nesting.
Most of my cranks are shallow, yes. I think the deepest I use it 5 feet. I prefer most of them around 5/16 in weight. Been using Ike's Rapla DT-4's a lot lately.
I can cast them father on my Shimano TX-110Q (1985 era spinning reel) and a Quantum Smoke PT40 spinning reel.
This is my FIRST baitcaster and I'm still learning. I have gotten casting down to the point that I can put them where I want them within the range I know it "can" cast for me, I'm no longer getting backlash or anything either. I pretty much have casting down, I just expected it to go father.
If this is your first casting reel then I would suggest you get better at using it. Chucking a square bill a mile should be the least of your concerns. Understand the entire reel cast control knobs, breaks, free spool, etc like the other OP said accuracy>distance especially with a square bill and targeting cover. You don't need to upgrade bearings because I have three curado I's all with stock bearings my actual square bill rod is on a jackall poison adrena 6'6" medium and I can bomb an LC 1.5 .... The rod your using has a lot to do with casting distance and the specific rod your using is so so and pretty tip heavy which may have something to do with your end result as it's a medium heavy rated for 3/8-1oz and you stated your primarily casting 5/16-3/8
Learn your reel, flush those bearings, try a different rod possibly and see if your results are similar. Tight lines
Roadblock reply :
Well as far at the casting learning curve, this reel took me about 3 casts to figure out. What I mean is, how cast without back-lash or bird nests. I only get those if I let it get those now.
I do two types of fishing. I cast near something up close by shore, near downed trees or grass. When I'm doing that I like to put the bait in a pretty specific place. I've gotten that down to about a 1~3 foot radius depending my distance. I can pretty much put them where I want them. When I'm fishing like that, distance isn't important. Normally I'm using cranks that go say 4~5 feet down.
Then sometimes I cast out in deeper 15~20 foot water where I want to put the baits out there as far at I can. Normally I'll run something like a 3/8 buzz-bait, or a 3/8 lipless sinking crank and let it drop down and when I'm using baits like that I would prefer to cover more ground so to speak. Accuracy isn't really important, but distance is so I've got more distance to run the baits before I have to cast again.
Will start by flushing the bearings and see where that gets me and maybe try playing with the brake some more.
bootytrain reply :
Leave the external dial at 1, and are you using an overhead casting stroke or sidearm? Overhead goes much farther for me. Also if you are using a great casting lure try to go down to one brake.
Delaware Valley Tackle reply :
The single biggest problem here is that the rod is heavy for the baits you're casting if distance is the main concern. The guys at Hawgtech are great guys and their bearings are good quality as far as I can tell, but the internet is loaded with these "free Spool" videos and they are a little deceiving although not intentionally in most cases. Free spool contributes to casting distance UP TO A POINT and that's it. An object of a given weight, mass and profile will only fly just so far no matter what you launch it with or how much/little drag is put on it. A spool that spins 90 seconds doesn't translate to a lure that will fly 90 seconds or anything close. The most effective ways to improve free spool listed by value:
1. Deep cleaning w/flush and proper oiling of stock bearings
2. Super Tuning (solid spool shaft reels only)
3. ABEC 5 ceramic hybrid bearings run dry. Reel spools are not fast enough, for long enough to benefit practically from higher rated bearings. ABEC5 are better than most stockers and the ceramic balls are lighter, rounder and harder. The trade off is they are a little louder which puts some people off. Adding oil to ceramic bearings counteracts some of the benefit. Timing the free spool and comparing between steps 2 & 3 will show much less improvement than over box stock.
The real keys to casting distance lie in the rod, line and bait.
new2BC4bass reply :
Like Mike said....too light for the rod. St. Croix rods are known for being slightly underrated. I don't own any St. Croix rods, but do a couple Abus....another rod company known to underrate their rods. I have a 7'6" MHF rated from 3/8 oz. I won't use it for 3/8 oz. or 1/2 oz. for that matter. My 6'10" HF Quantums will outcast that rod with 1/2 oz. lures. Your crankbait rod should have a softer tip so it should handle 3/8 better than my Abu rod. It is my understanding that a rod usually performs best with lures in the mid-range of its rating. Not something written in stone, tho as I have some that handle the low end weights quite well....especially my Falcons and Fenwicks.
Better bearings will help with lighter lures. By themselves they probably won't add much distance (if any) using weights within that rod's rating. Adding a super tune to the bearing upgrade as Mike suggested will give you the biggest gain in distance. Not only will the spool spin freer, but the super tune will allow you to cast with lighter brake settings...which will increase distance more than just a bearing upgrade ever could going by my limited experience. Some say a bearing upgrade isn't needed for heavier weights. I say take advantage of every little bit of possible gain if price is within reason. I find that my brakes are set significantly lower on all of my tuned reels.
WIGuide reply :
On 8/11/2014 at 12:24 PM, Roadblock said:It's rated for 3/8 to 1oz, Medium-Heavy action.
I have the brake set to 2 on, 2 off and then the adjustment knob is at setting 2.
I don't think the brake is the issue because if I don't manually brake my spool it will spit out line after the crankbaits hit the water so the point of bird-nesting.
Most of my cranks are shallow, yes. I think the deepest I use it 5 feet. I prefer most of them around 5/16 in weight. Been using Ike's Rapla DT-4's a lot lately.
I can cast them father on my Shimano TX-110Q (1985 era spinning reel) and a Quantum Smoke PT40 spinning reel.
This is my FIRST baitcaster and I'm still learning. I have gotten casting down to the point that I can put them where I want them within the range I know it "can" cast for me, I'm no longer getting backlash or anything either. I pretty much have casting down, I just expected it to go father.
Spinning reels usually cast farther than baitcasters because there is nothing controlling how fast the line comes off the spool and there is virtually no drag. As far as the rod goes, you're using baits that are at the lower end of it's weight rating so they are not going to cast as far as those in the middle. Also, as far as breaks are concerned, this is where you need to train your thumb. All of my reels are set so that you need to thumb them when the bait hits the water. You may not like them that way, but you get some more distance out of them that way.
fishballer06 reply :
On 8/11/2014 at 9:25 PM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:The single biggest problem here is that the rod is heavy for the baits you're casting if distance is the main concern. The guys at Hawgtech are great guys and their bearings are good quality as far as I can tell, but the internet is loaded with these "free Spool" videos and they are a little deceiving although not intentionally in most cases. Free spool contributes to casting distance UP TO A POINT and that's it. An object of a given weight, mass and profile will only fly just so far no matter what you launch it with or how much/little drag is put on it. A spool that spins 90 seconds doesn't translate to a lure that will fly 90 seconds or anything close. The most effective ways to improve free spool listed by value:
1. Deep cleaning w/flush and proper oiling of stock bearings
2. Super Tuning (solid spool shaft reels only)
3. ABEC 5 ceramic hybrid bearings run dry. Reel spools are not fast enough, for long enough to benefit practically from higher rated bearings. ABEC5 are better than most stockers and the ceramic balls are lighter, rounder and harder. The trade off is they are a little louder which puts some people off. Adding oil to ceramic bearings counteracts some of the benefit. Timing the free spool and comparing between steps 2 & 3 will show much less improvement than over box stock.
The real keys to casting distance lie in the rod, line and bait.
I agree with him. The fact of the matter is; your spool can spin forever if you want it to, but in reality, gravity pulls down on everything at the same rate, no matter what.
NathanW reply :
Spool less line and cast overhead.
iabass8 reply :
On 8/11/2014 at 2:04 PM, Roadblock said:Well as far at the casting learning curve, this reel took me about 3 casts to figure out. What I mean is, how cast without back-lash or bird nests. I only get those if I let it get those now.
I do two types of fishing. I cast near something up close by shore, near downed trees or grass. When I'm doing that I like to put the bait in a pretty specific place. I've gotten that down to about a 1~3 foot radius depending my distance. I can pretty much put them where I want them. When I'm fishing like that, distance isn't important. Normally I'm using cranks that go say 4~5 feet down.
Then sometimes I cast out in deeper 15~20 foot water where I want to put the baits out there as far at I can. Normally I'll run something like a 3/8 buzz-bait, or a 3/8 lipless sinking crank and let it drop down and when I'm using baits like that I would prefer to cover more ground so to speak. Accuracy isn't really important, but distance is so I've got more distance to run the baits before I have to cast again.
Will start by flushing the bearings and see where that gets me and maybe try playing with the brake some more.
If the extent of your casting reel experience is having the brakes set to the point where the lure barely falls from your rod tip and you aren't thumbing the spool during a portion of the cast(i.e you will have to stop the spool /w your thumb before it hits the water and feather it during a portion of the cast), then you are ( i don't mean any offense here) still a beginner using a casting reel. Albeit you have figured out the very basics of how to cast, there is so much more to make things more efficient /w the brake settings. Flush the bearings and do it right. My shimanos are set on 1 brake and on occasions 2 /w a very loose spool. with that particular rod you are using and a 3/8oz lipless crank (again, no offense) if you aren't able to absolutely bomb that bait into the the proverbial next county, the issue is you. Clean the bearings and learn to use less brakes for distance. As for the buzzbaits, bladed baits create a lot of wind resistance which will diminish a lot of distance when casting overhead or trying to "huck" it out there. cast side armed and lower.
On 8/12/2014 at 12:14 AM, NathanW said:Spool less line and cast overhead.L
And don't do this
kikstand454 reply :
Do not super tune your curado. It is a better reel than you are a caster as it is. ...no need to make it even better. All that will lead to is more frustration for you and increased brake settings as you fight to control the super tuned goodness.
Your problem lies in your rod. That, combined with inexperience is limiting the overall distance your light lures are capable of. Its a sticky situation as going to a medium rod will then make it not as suitable for other things you may use it for. That's why people end up with 17 rods. Lol.
The rod you have is best used with lure weights in the middle or upper end of its recommended rating. Put a 1oz jig on there and see how far it goes!
Delaware Valley Tackle reply :
I'm not trying to sell Super Tuning to a beginner baitcaster, but in reality the user of a Tuned reel actually often ends up using less breaking due to the decreased effort it takes to get the spool turning.
JeziHogg reply :
Lighter aftermarket spools help as well.
http://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/
Roadblock reply :
OK I just went threw all of the posts, thanks guys for the feedback!
I reset the spool tension for each bait. I have it set pretty loose for each one. If I hit the button the baits DROP! If I don't thumb brake the spool it will backlash. I have to feather the spool before it touches down or I would get backlash. I was under the impression this was the correct way to run them. If I ran it any tighter it would seem like it would cause drag? I almost have it setup so that the spool outruns the bait, it's border line.
If I tighten the tension it almost would feel like the bait was pulling the spool.
WdyCrankbait reply :
I would suggest start with the cheaper solutions and work your way up the ladder depending on results vs. $$.
Supertuning is great! I have my three Curado E's all done by DVT, they are awesome. But, one thing, I really dont need all the distance because I am at the limit of my hook setting range at the end of the cast. Basic maintenance and cheaper solutions can work as well.
Good luck!
Wdy
Tim Kelly reply :
Your rod is too heavy for the 3/8 baits to work optimally. The cheapest and most effective way to cast further with your outfit is to cast slightly heavier baits. Heavier baits cast further anyway and with you rod the whole thing will be a lot easier. Baits in the 1/2 to 3/4 range are what you want. KVD 2.5 would be a good starting point.
roadwarrior reply :
As others have already stated, the issue is the rod not the reel. You really need a Medium Power/ Moderate
Action rod to launch those weights. Specifically, I own and recommednt the St. Croix Avid AVC70MM and
Pinnacle DHC5-701CAMCB: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing_lures/pinnacle-optimus-xlt-dhc-review.html
I would also suggest swapping out the braid for #12 Sunline Super Natural Monofilament.
iabass8 reply :
On 8/12/2014 at 4:46 AM, Tim Kelly said:Your rod is too heavy for the 3/8 baits to work optimally.
On 8/12/2014 at 5:17 AM, roadwarrior said:As others have already stated, the issue is the rod not the reel. You really need a Medium Power/ Moderate
Action rod to launch those weights.
Have either of you actually use the 7' MHM.....
The rod handles 3/8oz squarebills (a 1.5) with absolute ease...not to mention a 3/8 oz lipless crankbait,....
I also thought both the mojo and LTB 7'MHM were terrible rods for the kvd/lc 2,5..
Tim Kelly reply :
No, but I have the mojo 7'4" medium moderate glass crankbait rod and know what that's like, a medium heavy is going to be stiffer. Even my medium rod is happier with 1/2 than 3/8 and if the OP is new to baitcasting gear and looking for maximum distance then trying to throw 3/8 on a relatively stiff rod is not going to be as easy as it might be with a better balance between the bait and the rod.
iabass8 reply :
On 8/12/2014 at 5:33 AM, Tim Kelly said:No, but I have the mojo 7'4" medium moderate glass crankbait rod and know what that's like, a medium heavy is going to be stiffer. Even my medium rod is happier with 1/2 than 3/8 and if the OP is new to baitcasting gear and looking for maximum distance then trying to throw 3/8 on a relatively stiff rod is not going to be as easy as it might be with a better balance between the bait and the rod.
That is literally the first time I've ever heard of the St. Croix MHM being referenced as a "stiff" rod...
Unless you are casting inside a garage or throwing your bait at a wall, there is absolutely not one instance a 3/8oz lipless crankbait cannot be thrown a "country mile" on the mojo MHM. (same goes for a kvd 1.5) The rod loads just fine into the blank to cast those baits.
Tim Kelly reply :
So rather than just saying the guy needs to practice more, what would your helpful advice be for the OP? Do you think a heavier bait would throw less well or less distance?
J Francho reply :
Get a super clean from a pro, and practice. Simple as that. No upgrades necessary. If you want to add performance, concentrate next on the drag. Then for smoothness, a light handle with bearing knobs. After all that, and you still want to soup it up, better bearings, and a light weight spool.
iabass8 reply :
On 8/12/2014 at 6:06 AM, Tim Kelly said:So rather than just saying the guy needs to practice more, what would your helpful advice be for the OP? Do you think a heavier bait would throw less well or less distance?
Ive already suggested clean and flush the bearings earlier in the post..
Im only chiming in again because somebody with the glass mojo is suggesting(or even for some reason comparing) the graphite MHM crankbait rod is "too stiff" to throw a 3/8oz lipless crankbait or 1.5 which is asinine.
Loop_Dad reply :
On 8/12/2014 at 4:46 AM, Tim Kelly said:Your rod is too heavy for the 3/8 baits to work optimally. The cheapest and most effective way to cast further with your outfit is to cast slightly heavier baits. Heavier baits cast further anyway and with you rod the whole thing will be a lot easier. Baits in the 1/2 to 3/4 range are what you want. KVD 2.5 would be a good starting point.
+1.
Go buy a bait in that range and try. This should solve your problem. If not, report back and we can help.
Or go exchange the rod for M if the store let you so you can use the lures you already have.
new2BC4bass reply :
On 8/12/2014 at 3:21 AM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:I'm not trying to sell Super Tuning to a beginner baitcaster, but in reality the user of a Tuned reel actually often ends up using less breaking due to the decreased effort it takes to get the spool turning.
This is exactly what I stated in my post. What I didn't mention was that all my tuned reels were Daiwas. I have been told that the results of super tuning a Shimano is much more apparent than on a Daiwa. I have to run my brakes on a Daiwa factory reel in the 8-10 area for most of the models I have. The tuned reels run with 4 or 5 brakes on. This is still more than most people run, but I never said I was an expert. 
I also run very little spool tension. Much less than what is always suggested as the right way to set up spool tension.
Today I got to spend about an hour with my Curado 51E that Mike super tuned and installed upgraded bearings and a Carbontex drag. I have always had to run my Shimano reels with more bakes on than most people (normally at least 3). Probably because I also run spool tension very light on these reels too. I have finally worked my way down to 2 brakes on with the factory Shimano reels. That is where I started with the tuned 51E.
Trying for maximum distance didn't gain a whole lot, and resulted in the line rising on the spool. What I often refer to as "fluffing". Backing off on the power of the cast resulted in a much better feeling cast and distances nearly the same. I set the brake to one. After 4-5 casts to get use to the lower brake setting, I was getting the same distance as a hard cast with 2 brakes on, but with much less effort. This did require paying attention to my casting stroke to keep the line from "fluffing". Smooth is a key word when you are running with very little spool tension.
OP:: Running the spool loose like you are will help with distance, but requires more skill with the thumb and is what we all strive for (more skill with the thumb). Set to where the lure slowly drops will help with overruns and backlashes, but naturally will decrease maximum distance a bit. A friend uses nothing but Shimano baitcast reels. His tension is set up so he doesn't need a thumb on the spool at the end of a cast. He also has an awesome swing. His casting distance is very good. The first thing he does when he picks up one of my reels to try is tighten spool tension.
It was mentioned elsewhere to use less line. That should help with overruns/backlashes, but a full spool will give you more distance. Another poster stated he achieved longer distances with an overhead cast. So did I for awhile. Now it makes no difference whether I use a side arm roll cast or an overhead cast. Heck, a roll cast with either hand is about the same. Only with an overhead cast is my right side casting distance longer than the left side. I did spend a lot of time last summer practicing them all.
Smallmouth Hunter reply :
Flush the bearings, train your thumb, don't whip the heck out of the rod when you cast
Roadblock reply :
I flip, I do not whip! I actually cast farther flipping than whipping. I was under the impression flipping under hand or over head two handed was preferred but always a flip, never really a whip.
Flushed the bearings. It's a new reel but it's possible they had gummed up oil in them. Who knows how clean the Malaysian factory is and how long the reels sat before I bought it. Obviously it's a current model but still.
I'm not sure I trust those numbers on the St. Croix rods or any rod either as being a good indicator of what weight bait I have to use. For example, I have the 7" MHM Mojo Bass rod and I just picked up the 7" MHM Eyecon Walleye rod lastnight to compare it to. Exact same rod other than color. Same SCII blanks, same everything. One is rated 3/8 to 1oz, the other is rated 1/2 to 3oz but someone told me they were the SAME rods so I called St. Croix Customer support and they confirmed this.
Eh anyway I may play around with different lines too but I've got my brake set loose and I've pretty much got thumb control down. I have to feather my line lightly to avoid backlash so I'm very sure the baits are not dragging the spool. I also have to stop the spool as my baits make water contact or I spit out a ton of line and backlash. I reset the tension with each bait and I prefer very loose. Loose gets me the best distance.
related Fishing Rods Reels Line Knots topic
most viewed Fishing Rods Reels Line Knots topic
© 2024 - fishing.qciss.net. All Rights Reserved.