I hear all this buzz about softer glass rods for crankbaits or traps. I suppose I understand why they can be good, due to being softer and letting the fish have a better chance of grabbing the bait.
Are they really worth it though? Couldn't you buy a typical composite rod with moderate action or use higher stretch line?
The best crankbait fisherman on the planet (KVD) uses a mix of glass and graphite rod, I think the composite is also the way to go, that being said I do have some just glass rods and some just graphite rods that i use for cranking, but most are a combination.
Mitch
Are they worth it? Yes. It keeps them buttoned up when they hit, IMO.
It's all personal preference. a lot of people don't like glass rods because they were notoriously heavy. a lot of people do like them though because they like how they fish. some rod manufactures now build some very nice light weight glass rods that some people are turning back to them. it wouldn't hurt to try both if possible.
I have a Reese S-Glass crankin rod and really feel I have landed fish on that rod that I wouldn't have on a graphite rod. Just barely hooked fish stay buttoned a little better on that soft rod. I throw a ton of traps in spring and fall. If you have never held and shook a true parabolic rod like a glass rod, you need to. It's a whole different feel. I will say that you lose sensitivity with a glass rod and they are heavier than graphite. So, if you like to feel your way around the bottom, a composite rod may be a good compromise.
And if you are going to find one to try, make sure it's a true glass rod. I bought one of those teal blue Clunn s-glass crankin rods (it was only $20...) but it's nothing like the parabolic Reese glass rod I have. You'll know the difference as soon as you shake it.
I actually prefer graphite. I don't find myself losing a lot of fish with it either. I just use a rod with a moderate action and it works find. Just fight them really carefully and you won't have an issue.
I have tried a composite rod and I just can't stand it. You lose so much sensitivity, and that is something I personally can't stand.
To me the material isn;t as critical as the action being moderate but mine is a composite Kistler helium micro guide and i like it when paired up with braid. I definitely keep more fish buttoned up with this set up than i did with a standard MF rod with mono.
I use a couple of older model Lamiglas glass crank bait rods and I really prefer them.
The action is very different from graphite and even composite. It's an acquired taste.
Some anglers who have tried and didn't like glass report that these rods are less sensitive.
I'd say that it's a different type of feel. Very subtle but still effective.
I prefer to use braided line with these rods. Cranking with glass dampens your feel so the fish has plenty of time to get the bait. The Braid serves to aid in hook sets, especially on long casts and the thinner diameter usually associated with 10-20lb braid allows the bait to reach a decent depth.
My description may or may not be the same way you see or feel the action of these rods. The only way to know is to use one.
The number one concern to me is getting fish to the boat. Using these glass rods with braid (and good after market hooks) has reduced my percentage of lost treble hook bait bass dramatically.
A-Jay
I like the glass rods, since switching to them I have lost way way less fish cranking.
I have a rick clunn glass rod, the 7'8 version and it's a heavy big rod, but I like it pretty well, I'm sure there are better choices, but it gets the job done for me. I only throw my deep divers and bigger lipless cranks on it.
I also use Powell diesel 7'0 rod and it's light as a feather, I use it for squarebills, smaller lipless cranks, and jerkbaits. It's a great feeling rod and I love it.
The glass rods let you fight a fish that's not hooked very well, and get it in the boat, something I couldn't do with graphite style rods that I used to have.
Only if making longer cast easier and increasing your strike to landing bass ratio.
Tom
It's funny cause Dobyns rods are known to have some excellent glass rods yet Gary himself only uses graphite. It really does come down to preference. I have a 705cb graphite which I use for most stuff but a 765cb glass for deep divers.
When the bait is really deep and far away, I feel the glass helps keep them pinned for the long ride back lol. Furthermore, the glass helps compensate for the fluorocarbon I use to get extra depth. With the 705cb, I use mono to compensate for the graphite.
Glass or graphite or a combination thereof. The sole key is that it is a slow enough rod that you wouldn't even consider fishing plastics or a jig on it. I have both, use both for different techniques.
I tried E Glass, then S Glass, then went back to a M action graphite. The E Glass was too heavy and the S Glass was not different enough from a M action graphite to get exited about. I have better feel of what the crank is doing with graphite and I can cast more accurately with it too. Casting a glass rod is different because they load so slowly. Other guys love glass, so it boils down to what is important to you and how comfortable you are using one. To your other question, yes, the rod, the line, your reel, and even your fishing playing style all effect how often fish come unbuttoned. The combined action of Mono on a graphite rod might be very close to a glass rod with fluoro, or even softer than a glass rod with braid. It just depends on the specifics.
All you can do is try one to see if it's a fit. Personally, I wouldn't buy one until I got a chance to fish with one.
On 1/30/2014 at 10:52 AM, BobP said:
All you can do is try one to see if it's a fit. Personally, I wouldn't buy one until I got a chance to fish with one.
This is often hard to do but really is the best advice.
A-Jay
Thanks everyone! I've been looking at st croix mojo bass glass rods, st croix rage rods, and duckett cranking rods. I wish I could just test them all out then make my choice.
I am also on the boat of the composite rods, part glass, part graphite. I am fan of the composites rather than the full glass because the graphite does help with feel a bit more than just straight glass. I use both the 7' and the 7'6" Veritas winch rods, which are composites. The 7' for shallow cranks and square bills and the 7'6" for the deep divers. The parabolic bend really does keep tension on the hooks and helps you land the fish. Not to mention the casting distance is pretty sweet and just an added bonus. I've fully bought into the idea for glass in the cranking world.
A GOOD glass rod like the former Lamiglas SR705 is plenty sensitive enough for cranks, casts well and has plenty of back bone. The slower action really keeps them buttoned up.
On 1/30/2014 at 9:28 PM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:A GOOD glass rod like the former Lamiglas SR705 is plenty sensitive enough for cranks, casts well and has plenty of back bone. The slower action really keeps them buttoned up.
That's the one.
A-Jay
It really is all about the action more than anything. A rod that flexes nearly its entire length will protect hooks and line better than one that flexes at the tip only.
Theres tradoffs, which is why there are so many rods. A tip flex rod will rocket a bait out of the boat where a full flex can but you will really be overpowering the rod itself to do so.
On 1/30/2014 at 9:38 PM, jhoffman said:It really is all about the action more than anything. A rod that flexes nearly its entire length will protect hooks and line better than one that flexes at the tip only.
Theres tradoffs, which is why there are so many rods. A tip flex rod will rocket a bait out of the boat where a full flex can but you will really be overpowering the rod itself to do so.
I am not sure i agree about the casting part. I can really launch on my composite rod but it is a different type of cast as you have to allow the rod to load which takes a little more time than on a tip flex or faster action rod. It reminds me more of chucking a rig that is heavy out there for catfish, more of a heave or lob but it will definitely go a long ways.
On 1/30/2014 at 10:27 PM, flyfisher said:I am not sure i agree about the casting part. I can really launch on my composite rod but it is a different type of cast as you have to allow the rod to load which takes a little more time than on a tip flex or faster action rod. It reminds me more of chucking a rig that is heavy out there for catfish, more of a heave or lob but it will definitely go a long ways.
KVD doesn't seem to do this
KVD doesn't do what?
For deep diving lures the Lamiglas SR705R is THE BOMB!
Otherwise, for most cranking I'm using graphite: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing_lures/pinnacle-optimus-xlt-dhc-review.html
On 1/30/2014 at 11:10 PM, flyfisher said:KVD doesn't do what?
Doesn't seem to lob it out there like a catfish rig. He just whips it's out there.
I wasn't as clear as i could have been, it isn't a lob as much as it is allowing the rod to load properly which is a little slower rather than your classic flick it out there.
On 1/31/2014 at 4:30 AM, aprw1 said:He just whips it out there.
On 1/31/2014 at 5:03 AM, Smokinal said:
Garret, If your looking at St.Croix, take a look at the 7' premier crankinbait rod. I had one for a few years and love it. About $140. Good luck.
On 1/31/2014 at 3:30 AM, roadwarrior said:For deep diving lures the Lamiglas SR705R is THE BOMB!
Otherwise, for most cranking I'm using graphite: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing_lures/pinnacle-optimus-xlt-dhc-review.html
The 705 is great but the 765 is THE BOMB!!
I use a custom built on the Lamiglas blank used in the 765. It isn't too heavy, has plenty of sensitivity and flexes beautifully for big baits with a lot of drag. That extra 6" really allows you to bomb casts. I don't use it for shallow baits but it is perfect for deep baits.
I have a mojo bass cranking stick in 7'8 mh m and really like it I've never had a real problem losing fish on itOn 1/30/2014 at 12:12 PM, Garret88 said:Thanks everyone! I've been looking at st croix mojo bass glass rods, st croix rage rods, and duckett cranking rods. I wish I could just test them all out then make my choice.
Tight lines
Andrew
I used to use a carbonlite medium with moderate action. I lost too many fish with it. Then I got a mojo bass glass and never looked back. Surprisingly sensitive and keeps them hooked.
What about a brand like Dobyns? They offer a rods like the 705CB and 705CB glass. Does the softer glass offer any more advantage? Both rods have the parabolic bend of a crankbait rod.
Have used the Lamiglas crankin rods in Glass and they're awesome.
Tight Lines
I have a Mojo 7'4 S-glass for mid to deep diving cranks and I just got the 705cb Glass rod during winter. I prefer glass rods for the forgiveness especially if you have a tendency to set the hook like Hulk. Being that I fish a lot of slop and weedy lakes, I'm always driving the hook pretty hard so the glass rods have helped compensate there for my mistake habits. For me, they've kept a lot of fish buttoned up where as if I was using a graphite stick I may have lost some. I like the whippy action for launching baits too.
I haven't used the Dobyns yet, but it is certainly one of the lightest glass rods I've ever picked up and it just feels good in my hands. I think it really boils down to preference and how you fish so it may require trying both out at some point.
A short answer to the question is that, in my opinion, fiberglass crank bait rods are more trouble than they are worth. The Lamiglass rod other guys are touting this thread, aren't sold here in the KC Metro area. So I can't speak to how good a rod that is. However, every glass rod I'v ever touched and/or fished with were pretty heavy compared to a similar length graphite rod. I know I've got a couple of them and they are gathering dust in my shop, in the pile of retired rods.
I've been using a pair of 7', M, BPS Crankin' Sticks for a couple of years now for SB's and CB's and have no complaints. They seem to be well made and deliver as advertised.
Picking out any rod is subject to the tastes, demands and expectations of the angler and no other technique specific rod is more subjective than a cranking rod. I do not want to come across as some expert on the subject, i'm not. I will offer this, after fishing bass for 40 plus years and having the opportunity to fish about 400 models of rods and build my own, I found what I want in a rod and that includes a crankbait rod and why.
The one primary characteristic that is critical is a moderate action. The exception might be a squarebill rod. Some people refer to it as parabolic. You can achieve this action by employing several different materials or combinations of materials. You can go glass, like the mentioned Lamiglas and St Croix, composite like the Quantum or Dobyns "glass" and or go with an all graphite model with a moderate or parabolic design.
Iv'e fished Lamiglas, Loomis, Fenwick, Quantum, BPS, Dobyns, St Croix, Pinnacle and a host of others and found some models that perform the way I want. Here is where it gets complicated but very simple. The material in glass is SLOWER to react than graphite materials. You can have a 7 foot moderate action rod with the same bend and flex in glass that a graphite blank may have. The glass is slower to react or reflex than the graphite comparable. I know this this because I fish both.
When you decide what reflex you want, it will streamline your search significantly. If you want moderate actions, that's easy, there's a bunch of offerings. If you want moderate and a quicker reflex or reaction, then look at all graphite. If you want the slower reflex then glass is your material and composites can provide the best of both characteristics for you. I have four rods designated for cranking in three different materials and two different lengths. Fishing rods are frustrating. Just when you think you are dialed in, something new makes you question what your are using now. Ask yourself the right questions, you will make the better choice. Once I understood this, selection was pretty easy and I think I am a more effective crankbait angler than I used to be as a result.
If things continue to improve at home, I just might get to use my rods this year.
Doug
I use the Skeet Reese Cranking Rod, and I have to admit that I'm glad I got it... It may not be the "Top of the Line" rod, but I haven't lost a fish on it yet... My opinion is... It's a must have set up in the rod box.