Any rebels out in the world tht use braid with crankbaits
I use braid on my cranks. Dead serious.
Lol that's what I'm saying braid on crankbait a is frowned upon for some reason?
Truthfully, it isn't the best line to use as it floats so you lose some depth, which can be important when deep crankin. I just cant stand fluoro, which sinks, and I love the no memory of braid. I use a fluoro leader and catch tons of fish on my braid so....
I use braid for small shad raps with a 7' medium light spinning rod.
The amount of braid floating is not going to impact the depth your crank can run but the smaller diameter of the braid will get your cranks deeper with a higher strength than comparable mono or flouro. You also have to consider that most, if not all crankbaits are floating and that flotation is much higher than any braid is. I use braid on my crank bait set up and have zero complaints. I use 8lb diameter power pro super slick and would go smaller but my bait caster doesn't like braid skinnier than the 8lb diameter.
Yeah I like 30lb braid for crankbaits too, I'll try a co-poly or something every now and again but always go back to braid...
I was wondering when this topic was going to come up. It's only been 4 days since the last time this was asked.
I don't. Because I'm old school I use mono for everything except for worms/jigs and flipping.
Yes, all the time, and have for years. Frankly I am tired of talking about it.
When I get up tomorrow morning, I'm going to start a new topic asking what the best $100 rod is.
On 12/31/2014 at 9:14 AM, Smokinal said:Truthfully, it isn't the best line to use as it floats so you lose some depth, which can be important when deep crankin.
That's a big misconception. Braid is not so buoyant that it would keep a bait from running as deep as it can. A small bare hook will cause braid to sink. Using a thinner braid will actually let crankbaits runs deeper than they would on mono. Some guys depend on the stretch of mono or fluoro to keep from losing fish. I use only braid because I like the lack of stretch, the increased sensitivity and the added depth I get.
I don't think you can be fully effective with only one type of line for crankbaits. lol
A forgiving rod (parabolic), and your drag correctly adjusted, braid works for me.
Real men use log chain. Gets them baits deep, son. Almost zero stretch.
I don't spend 6-15$ a bait to risk not using braid. 30lb to prevent digging on the spool and good to go.
I wonder when the Elite Pro's will catch on to the benefits of braid and cranks, seems like one of them should have known by now......................
Does braid even float? Like I know it will stay on top of the water but is it actually buoyant, if you cut a piece of braid off and push it under the water I don't think it will float back to the top... At least with powerpro
What I want to know is are fake Senkos as good as the real thing???
^ lol "fake senkos"
On 12/31/2014 at 2:29 PM, Fisher-O-men said:What I want to know is are fake Senkos as good as the real thing???
Depends if you throw them on the BEST, or MOST SENSITIVE 100 dollar rod.
I use 10 lb braid on my spinning rod and use it for lipless cranks and I can launch them
On 12/31/2014 at 11:37 AM, Jaheff said:A forgiving rod (parabolic), and your drag correctly adjusted, braid works for me.
Ding ding.....I use medium action baitcast rods with 8 lb diameter braid for all my cranking. Braid gets the bait deep, you feel every little bump off structure, and the rod creates enough "give" to prevent trebles from pulling on a fish.
No reason not to. Squarebills around grass, I love to fish braid as long as I can get the bites. I find that a lot of the time I need to switch to mono once the water gets clear. I know that a lot of people don't believe that makes a difference but I like to make money.
I fish braid.....period. If I'm in an area where I might get hung up a lot or crystal clear water, I might use a Fluoro leader.
I've been using braid for all applications for a couple of years now and think it works just fine , I prefer 20# but that's me ....
I've tried it. Works better on a slower action rod, a little lighter in power than you'd use with fluoro or mono. As always, set the drag to the bait and rod, not the line. I didn't care for the feel of the bait when deflecting off objects. My preference is to use a strong copoly like CXX or a quality fluoro like Tatsu, but my time trying something new tells me braid works fine, and not taboo as many (myself included) have said.
I've always used braid with everything. With cranking I used a glass rod and had no worries. Something's gotta give: line, rod, drag. I always heard that braid was the most sensitive on a tight/taut line so I always thought why not use the most sensitive line? Just make up for the non-stretch with the rod/drag.
Use a softer rod, glass preferably, if your going to use braid. The only major drawback with it is that if the bait gets stuck its harder in my experience to use the bow and arrow line popping trick to get the bait loose.