Needing Help With Lunkers In Lily Pads 2024
Texfisherman reply :
So we're on a lake that has tons of monster bass in it.
This lake has lily pads extending out atleast 20 feet from the shoreline, all the way around the lake.
We were working the edge line of the lily pads with 1/2 oz. spinnerbaits, wacky-rigged worms on weedless hooks, and t-rigged worms.
Every time we hooked into a monster bass, it immediately headed to the lily pads and wrapped around one of them.
We would keep heavy tension on the line as we moved the boat in on the location. But by the time we had dug around the lily pad where the bass was, the bass had magically disappeared.
Any advice on preventing this? We lost 3 big bass in one day due to this exact situation.
Other info: 10 pound mono test, spinning rod and reel, medium-action rod, can't think of anything else.
^^ If it's possible to keep using the 10 pound test and still address this situation, I would prefer it.
Thanks
North Ga Hillbilly reply :
I think switching a stiff MH or Heavy rod and stepping it up to 50# braid or heavier is going to be one of the better plans.
NGaHB
dale.m reply :
I'd switch to at least a 30 lb braided line and a rod that has enough backbone to rip them out of the lilly pads.
Texfisherman reply :
Thanks for the prompt replies. Any suggestions on a good heavy-action spinning rod/reel for working braided line?
I tried working with braided 30-pound recently and it kept slipping on the spool as if it weren't actually attached.
mod479 reply :
Like the previous posters have said, spool up with some braid. I like power pro in green for fishing weeds/pads. Even 20lb braid will have a smaller diameter than your 10# mono. It will saw those lily pads up as you apply pressure, and that is what you need to do...get them out of those pads as quick as possible. Otherwise they'll just bury themselves in there deeper.
mod479 reply :
The braid spinning on your spool is an easy fix. Leave about 50 feet of monfilament on your reel, and attach your new braid with a double uni knot.
Texfisherman reply :
Outstanding. Thanks, everyone!
senko_77 reply :
Texfisherman, you got all the advice you need in the above posts.
Another thing I will add about the braid slippage is to wrap a strip of of packing tape around the mono. I do this for two reasons. One, it keeps the knot thats connecting the mono to braid from sticking out and snagging the line coming off your reel on the cast, and two, it has helped the slippage for me even more than just using the monofilament backing.
Good luck man. Like everyone said, pulling fish out of lily pads with 10lb mono is next to impossible. Braid seems like your only option.
Texfisherman reply :
Thank you, Senko_77. I will be trying the double-uni knot with a strip of packaging tape.
Maybe next time I'll get to post a pic of one of those monsters on this site.
MagicMoment reply :
I would try flipping those lily pads using a good sized hook (5 aught off-set shank at least). 65# braid also and a heavy action rod.
Also if you need visual help with catching these monster bass, PM me the lake address.
james 14 reply :
Once a bass gets down in the pads you're done. You've got to rip him out as quickly as possible. This holds true with any emergent vegetation...not just pads. I learned the hard way on a fish that about pulled me in the lake when I was flipping a grassline ealier this year. I lost her when she got in the grass. Since then I've turned my hooksets into an effort in pulling fish up to the surface and out of whatever they're in. I've already seen it pay off in my landing fish in situations where they used to get off.
The bottom line, as mentioned above, is that you can't do this with 10lb mono and a medium action spinning rod. You may not have to go the route of using braid and heavy action rods but you certainly need to up your tackle a bit. Put braid on that spinning rod and use a leader to fit whatever situation you're fishing. A 20lb flouro leader with a 30lb braid mainline will give you much more control over those fish. You can even go straight braid depending on the water color, how deep in the pads you're fishing and how slow of a retrieve you're using.
AK-Jax86 reply :
When I was back in Jersey I lost a MONSTER in the lilly pads. It jumped out of the water twice and then made a v line right to the Lilly pads and snapped my line I also lost my favorite spinner bait, this was about 2 or 3 years ago.
But someone said it before there is nothing like using a top water frog and getting a bass to strike it right out of the wate through the lillys
SmokeRise1 reply :
How much do you want to spend on a new rod? There are plenty out there that will work for you in this situation. Berkley Lightening Rod Shock is specifically designed for braid and will only run you like $50. I have one setup with 30lb PowerPro with a casting reel that I use with Rage Toads and Shads on pads all summer and it performs just fine.
LunkerLust reply :
I learned the hard way, fishing in and around pads and heavy weeds. At first you will break the line, when you start using braid you will strip the gears in your spinning reel. If you get a cheap baitcaster, you will strip the gears in that too! All this on 4 - 6 lb Ct bass. I can't imagine how tough it would be to haul double digit Texas bass out of the water.
Bottom line, spend at least $100 on a good baitcasting reel (I like Revos), and maybe $60+ on a BC rod, and you should be able to muscle them into the boat, before they get dug in to the weeds.
This ain't no game!
"Lunker Hunter" reply :
I wish I had this problem good luck on the tips given so far.
JamesD reply :
I'm no expert, but LunkerLust seems to have a good point.
Y'all can say what you want, but I swear by my Ugly Stik... it's been a fantastic rod for me, plenty powerful at 7' (spinning) for just about anything I want to do with it. I run an old Shimano TX1200 rear drag spinner with big gauge 20lb test mono line and the drag set to where I can barely spin the spool by thumb... I've YET to lose a fish to any under-water-hazards with this combo. I also pull the fish out of the water on hook set. Even some larger 4-5lb bass come flip-flopping out of the water...
Now, if you're interested in a baitcaster? I won't recommend any of these low-pro deals, I will tell you that there are some REALLY good deals on ebay for Daiwa Millionaire, older Shimano calcutta style reels, and Abu Garcia 5500-7000's. I mean like sub $75 prices on all of these.
I doubt you will run into any issues with any of those reels. Also... the Ugly stick comes in a 7' and 7'6" casting versions available at your local walmart or academy for $29.99. I'm sure Bass Pro would carry them too...
anyway, Just my two cents.
scrutch reply :
IMHO... You need braid and a rod with more backbone to turn those fish around before they get into the pads. A med heavy or heavy would help a lot. Not sure of your budget but ducker makes some good rods with a lot of backbone with a softer tip.
Sean MD reply :
I have a 7 ft MH baitcast that I use as my flippin' stick specifically for lily pads and heavy cover.
On 6/20/2012 at 12:58 AM, senko_77 said:Another thing I will add about the braid slippage is to wrap a strip of of packing tape around the mono. I do this for two reasons. One, it keeps the knot thats connecting the mono to braid from sticking out and snagging the line coming off your reel on the cast, and two, it has helped the slippage for me even more than just using the monofilament backing.
I've never heard of this, but it sounds interesting. Can you explain a little more? How wide is the strip of packing tape? Do you leave just enough on either side for the knot to move around?
Thanks!
Texfisherman reply :
Lots of great advice here, and I utilized all of it (and caught a monster bass)! I love the medium-heavy rods now and couldn't imagine going back to medium.
The only thing I didn't do was the packaging tape around the mono. I wish I had done it though, because that tape would push that knot down, more evenly with the surface. Right now, when I cast, the line is rubbing against the double-uni knot and it's reducing my casting distance greatly. It still works fantastically, but I'm gonna re-tie my spools, this time using the tape.
RHuff reply :
Old thread but definitely a current topic. I lost a couple of big fish last year in tournaments too on jigs that got me locked in the pads. One was when i pitched a jig beside a stump that was sticking out of a pad field. I let the jig fall vertical by the base of the stump and it hit it on the fall. I never could see the fish because I never got it up to the surface but it was strong. I held tension on the line and went into the pad field after him but when I got there the jig was locked around the pad stems and the fish was long gone. The only real solution is to get to the surface as soon as you set the hook. I am gonna switch from my MH to a H/F and 6.6:1 with 12lb drag Lew's to the newer Super Duty in 8.3:1 with 20 lb drag. I'm also gonna upgrade from 30lb braid to 65lb braid to see if that helps this year. I know for a fact one of those fish would have won me the tournament.
Smalls reply :
If I’m fishing within 20 feet of thick lily pads, I’ll throw even a spinnerbait on a heavy rod with heavy braid. I know exactly where they plan on goin once I hook em and if I can stop em, I will.
flyfisher reply :
I hate the tape deal on a spool. In warmer weather it will gum up. Just tie the braid direct to the spool. I tie a big loop and girth hitch the spool in the opposite direction of the line rotation when reeling in. Once you get a few layers in, push the knot down into the spool of line and keep reeling. It is super important on a braid set up to keep the line as tight as possible when spooling to prevent the spinning issue.
All that being said. don't be afraid to throw a fluke in those pads and be ready to go in and get the fish...i have caught many citation sized largemouth here in VA doing just that.
the reel ess reply :
That much drag isn't really necessary. My frog rod is a Cabela's Tourney XT frog model with a Lews LFS Tournament MB reel with 14 lb of drag. It gets the job done, but it's mostly the rod. That frog model rod is a pool cue. But that stump in a lily field is a killer spot, ain't it?
If you fill half the spool with cheap mono you can save some $$$ on the braid and it won't slip on the spool.
NHBull reply :
I like 4 strand braid for grass and pads, it just cuts better and I don't need to use 65lb
RHuff reply :
On 12/21/2018 at 8:07 AM, the reel ess said:That much drag isn't really necessary. My frog rod is a Cabela's Tourney XT frog model with a Lews LFS Tournament MB reel with 14 lb of drag. It gets the job done, but it's mostly the rod. That frog model rod is a pool cue. But that stump in a lily field is a killer spot, ain't it?
If you fill half the spool with cheap mono you can save some $$$ on the braid and it won't slip on the spool.
You think it was the braid slipping rather than the 12lb drag slipping?? I assumed I needed a stronger drag.
WRB reply :
It's a common problem with braid spinning on the spool arbor if the spool doesn't have holes. One wrap of black electrical tape the width of the spool solves the problem. Mono backing isn't needed, go with direct braid. With direct braid you turn it around each year, both spinning and baitcasting reels.
Regarding big bass in pads, you need the proper tackle.
Tom
the reel ess reply :
On 12/21/2018 at 11:10 AM, RHuff said:
You think it was the braid slipping rather than the 12lb drag slipping?? I assumed I needed a stronger drag.
Quite possibly. I don't ever use a whole spool of braid. I use Big Game mono as backing line and join the braid to it with a double uni knot.
RHuff reply :
On 12/21/2018 at 8:34 PM, the reel ess said:Quite possibly. I don't ever use a whole spool of braid. I use Big Game mono as backing line and join the braid to it with a double uni knot.
I had the drag as tight as I could get it and I could not pull it with my hand, but when the fish was locked down under the pads as I would pull back the spool was giving. I assumed it was the drag, but it very would could have just been braid slipping too.
Fairtax4me reply :
65lb braid I tie a knot through the holes in the spool to keep it from slipping. If it doesn't have holes I use a few yards of heavy Mono, but half a spool is far to much when using heavy line.
Just because you can't pull it and make it slip doesn't mean it wont slip when a fish is on the other end and that line has been wet.
It doesn't take half a spool of mono to keep it from slipping either. 10 yard or so is usually plenty. Fill the rest with braid. For lighter braid (30lb or under) I do this rather than tying directly to the spool.
For big fish in pads, You just can't let them get in the pads or you'll lose them almost every time. Heavy Braid, Heavy Rod. Cross their eyes with the hook set and get the head of the fish turned AWAY from the pads and force that fish to come to the boat. Your next weak link will be bent hooks. Do some research because there is TONS of info on fishing these methods. Put down the noodle rods, pick up the crane and winch, it will pay off.
WRB reply :
On 6/20/2012 at 12:12 AM, Texfisherman said:So we're on a lake that has tons of monster bass in it.
This lake has lily pads extending out atleast 20 feet from the shoreline, all the way around the lake.
We were working the edge line of the lily pads with 1/2 oz. spinnerbaits, wacky-rigged worms on weedless hooks, and t-rigged worms.
Every time we hooked into a monster bass, it immediately headed to the lily pads and wrapped around one of them.
We would keep heavy tension on the line as we moved the boat in on the location. But by the time we had dug around the lily pad where the bass was, the bass had magically disappeared.
Any advice on preventing this? We lost 3 big bass in one day due to this exact situation.
Other info: 10 pound mono test, spinning rod and reel, medium-action rod, can't think of anything else.
^^ If it's possible to keep using the 10 pound test and still address this situation, I would prefer it.
Thanks
Hunting elephants with a BB gun!
Heartland reply :
Just like everything else, you have to use the proper tools for the task.
TnRiver46 reply :
Pads are a heartbreaker. Heaviest rod and line possible and hope for the best! As far as the problem you are having with the backing knot in the spool, I always keep enough braid on the spool to bury the knot deep enough to where it never effects the cast. When the knot starts effecting distance, it's time to add more braid
new2BC4bass reply :
On 6/28/2012 at 9:55 PM, Texfisherman said:Lots of great advice here, and I utilized all of it (and caught a monster bass)! I love the medium-heavy rods now and couldn't imagine going back to medium.
The only thing I didn't do was the packaging tape around the mono. I wish I had done it though, because that tape would push that knot down, more evenly with the surface. Right now, when I cast, the line is rubbing against the double-uni knot and it's reducing my casting distance greatly. It still works fantastically, but I'm gonna re-tie my spools, this time using the tape.
I use the Uni Knot for all lines to lures. For splicing lines I like the Alberto.
On 12/21/2018 at 11:10 AM, RHuff said:
You think it was the braid slipping rather than the 12lb drag slipping?? I assumed I needed a stronger drag.
Yes. More than likely it was the line slipping.
Yup another old post sees the light of day.........again. Happens all the time at this time of year. Expect to see more before next season. 
soflabasser reply :
I do well using 30-50 pound test braid when fishing in areas with heavy aquatic vegetation.
related General Bass Fishing Forum topic
previous topic
most viewed General Bass Fishing Forum topic
© 2024 - fishing.qciss.net. All Rights Reserved.