Money saving tricks, ideas, and homemade stuff 2024
Glenn reply :
Please share some of your money savers.
For example, instead of those nail weights for flukes and worms. I cut up lead core solder into different size pieces. You can also wrap solder around the hooks of a bait to add weight instead of buying suspend strips or dots
A-Jay reply :
I like to pump at least one full tube of Megastrike into my boats gas tank when I top off.
It makes the best fish attracting out board motor exhaust ever . . . . . . .
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Kidding . . .
A-Jay
Mike L reply :
Only use twist lock hooks when rigging moving soft plastics
Don't assume that every crank or jerk bait is tuned out of the package
Don't leave plastics hooked when storing your rods
Always use line conditioner when spooling fluorocarbon line
Try useing a punch skirt when rigging your punch rig
Mike
slonezp reply :
Money saving idea? Change hobbies. This one is too dang expensive
.ghoti. reply :
Do NOT buy that first high end rod and reel.
Bluebasser86 reply :
Find a friend with a boat instead of buying your own.
"hamma" reply :
Money saving idea's??? A fly tying vise, and a cheap one at that, a cheap one you say? Yeah,.. thats what I got, the hooks on most bass gear we use are quite heavy duty compaired to a light fly hook. Buying a mid range or even a high end vise may just be a wasted venture as these thicker heavier hooks over time might just ruin that nice vise's jaws. If you want a high end one? Ask about the jaws for heavier hooks,.... I paid about 20 bucks for mine, over 30 years ago, and im still using the same vise and its original set of jaws.
This vise has paid for itself that first year, and over and over again every year since. I've been tying my jig skirts on so they dont slide down the hook, on a missed hookset due to the slippery scent I use, also spinnebaits as well. Albeit a tricky venture on spinnerbaits but worth it.(elastics work well to hold the strands) Then I got into tying "custom" colored skirts for both, and then hair and maribou jigs for weather like now.
Add some powder paint and a free toaster oven mom was throwing away? Now you're really cookin,..lol Some of the custom jigs I made not only kept winters cabin fever at bay, but yeilded some incredible creations. Jigheads that now match the alwive, herring, shad, and even bluegill colored plastics almost to the "t". Since they appeared so lifelike, I even started adding eyes. Finish it all off by sealing it all with some "tough as nails" clear nail polish. and you've got a long lasting jighead to present those small slugos, power worms, and custom handpours that will give you an advantage in gin clear waters. Just be sure to hit it with a scent before you use it. The scents of making it will scare fish away, but if you add that scent on there? and it becomes a killer lure, outfishing plain old black jigheads by far. I must add that jigcraft.com was a huge help.
The vise also works for tying hackle on trebles, another good tip
The true money saving tip? when done fishing make sure you remove any plastics off any type hooks. Usually,.. they will rust the hook kinda quick like
This winter I will start tying hook holders on the rods I have that dont have them, with the thread and maybe nail polish "sealer" I use now, hope this works, maybe I'll even look into the right rod eye sealers out there for a professional type fix. I image a question on the rod building threads wont hurt for that scenario.
webertime reply :
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Morris-Products-100-Pack-15-625-in-L-Nylon-Mounting-Cable-Ties/4618376
Hook keepers...
QUAKEnSHAKE reply :
Mend-it
Mend-it
Mend-it
Has saved me hundreds of $$$ on soft plastics--paddletails, ikas, senkos--plus fixed 2" slash in my pvc rain jacket
Jon G reply :
always use backing on your reels.
Wayne P. reply :
Trolling motor transducer cable guard. Prevents damage to the cable when fishing in hard cover:
CrustyMono reply :
1. Use backing to save line
2. Use line conditioner to save florocarbon
3. Use Yum Dingers instead of GYBs
4. Use braid on spinning reels and tie leaders
5. Melt used soft plastics and use them again
6. Use a cheaper rod for topwater because you don't need sensitivity; therefore, you can get away with lower modulus blanks
Spankey reply :
On 11/28/2016 at 1:32 AM, CrustyMono said:1. Use backing to save line
2. Use line conditioner to save florocarbon
3. Use Yum Dingers instead of GYBs
4. Use braid on spinning reels and tie leaders
5. Melt used soft plastics and use them again
6. Use a cheaper rod for topwater because you don't need sensitivity; therefore, you can get away with lower modulus blanks
Not sure how true this is but I heard along time ago they came up with the color camo from melting down a batch of soft plastics and reusing them. If this is true, what a color, because Berkley Camo has always been a good color for me. Just something I heard in the past.
georgeyew reply :
I use a small piece of silicone tubing on the hook and above the trailer to keep it from sliding down. This trick has extended the life of my trailers significantly. I also use the tubing at the bottom of the bend on texas rigged worms to keep them from sliding.
Further North reply :
Buy used.
- Used boats
- Used reels
- Used rods
...or just buy them on e-Bay, unused, but not current models.
Used boats alone will save tens of thousands of dollars...
whitwolf reply :
While I buy old discontinued Rebel baits, the thing that has saved me more money than anything is this; as I fish from year to year I know exactly what I like to fish and what works for me. Yes, I still buy some things that strike my fancy but the simplification of bait selection has saved me hundreds of dollars a year.
I also now take care of my equipment on a much more regular schedule. I have reels that are over 20 years old that are in excellent working condition. I do have many newer reels but If I have a problem my back-ups are more than adequate.
The last thing I want to share is this: I tend to fun fish more and more and simply having fun, taking In the sights and sounds of nature, and never taking for granted the time I get to spend on the water, well, you can't "buy" that.
jonnysmith reply :
I use wallmart fishing equipment..my most productive lure has always been a silver spoon ..my secret weapon that never fails is a casting net.bait bucket.live bait what ever i catch on the net and a bobber..ive got the most fish that way
roadwarrior reply :
Pocket Rocket: 3 oz bell weight & large paper clip as a lure retriever. About a 95% success rate!
the reel ess reply :
When using Trick Worms, the nose of the worm will get chewed up after a couple catches. Just bite (or tear) off about 1/2" from the nose and re-rig the worm for a couple more bites. Fish really don't care.
Use thin gauge wire to tie around skirts on baits so the rubber band doesn't rot off. Many times I've pulled out a spinnerbait that hasn't even been used and lost the skirt soon thereafter. If you do lose the skirt, grab a fluke or soft swimbait of the same color make do in a pinch. You can use a toad or craw on a buzzbait.
The Carolina Keeper is a small section of what looks like very thick weedeater cord with a slit cut down the middle. You compress it with pliers and slide your line through it. It acts as the swivel on a C rig and you can adjust the leader length without retying any terminal tackle. If you break off you only lose the bait instead of your whole rig.This is maybe more time saving that $.
the reel ess reply :
On 11/28/2016 at 1:32 AM, CrustyMono said:1. Use backing to save line
2. Use line conditioner to save florocarbon
3. Use Yum Dingers instead of GYBs
4. Use braid on spinning reels and tie leaders
5. Melt used soft plastics and use them again
6. Use a cheaper rod for topwater because you don't need sensitivity; therefore, you can get away with lower modulus blanks
I do 1, 3, 4 & 6. Except I don't use leaders for the most part. My topwaters, cranks, spinnerbaits and buzzbaits rods are Berkley Lightning Rods that I bought on clearance. Light and insensitive.
TriCityBassin' reply :
On 11/27/2016 at 10:57 AM, .ghoti. said:Do NOT buy that first high end rod and reel.
nothing but the truth! I bought 3 Cumaras and Fenwick Elite Tech....ruined me for life.
1. Don't succumb to peer pressure and ignore advertising. if you have gear that you LIKE...you don't need to replace it.
2. Quality/price...make your own stuff whenever possible. Jigs, spinner baits, etc. For the money, you come out on top.
3. Be a scrounger! If one of my boys or I break a spinner bait, crank, etc. I will pull every part i can off of it. Split rings, BB swivels, blades (Especially) all come off. I have a really good collection of blades now so I can switch up as needed with no EXTRA cost.
4. Put backing on your reels and use a leader to braid whenever possible. Good Fluorocarbon is expensive!
5. We are bass fishermen...we gonna buy stuff! Spend time on the inter-web searching for closeouts, buyouts, clearance etc. I have found some really high dollar stuff for 75% off sometimes. Not always, but it was fun searching too.
um mm......i ran out but may have more. great thread!
Scarborough817 reply :
if you have an old broken rod turn it into a line spooler instead of buying one i can post pics of mine tonight when i get home
roadwarrior reply :
On 11/28/2016 at 11:04 PM, TriCityBassin' said:2. Quality/price...make your own stuff whenever possible. Jigs, spinner baits, etc. For the money, you come out on top.
I don't think this is generally the case at all. As a specific example, pouring and assembling your own jigs probably requires a hundred jigs or more to break even if you assign $0 for your time. This certainly can be fun, but not "cost effective".
the reel ess reply :
Pfleuger Trion is the best spinning reel for the price ($40) I have seen, IMO.
When the end of your braid gets old and highly visible reel it off one reel onto another and you'll be using the new end (for maybe three more seasons as it lasts as long as you can stand to look at it). Use cheap mono for backing of course. No need to use up the whole spool of braid on one reel.
Berkley Big Game!!!
1/2 or 3/4 oz spinnerbaits are all you need. If you try you can get by with just a few and mix and match skirts and blades as needed. I don't mean that's the only bait you need. Just that a couple SBs will suffice.
I use a kayak. $600 vs whatever you can stand to pay for a bass boat that depreciates faster than a new car.
Turtle135 reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 12:13 AM, roadwarrior said:I don't think this is generally the case at all. As a specific example, pouring and assembling your own jigs probably requires a hundred jigs or more to break even if you assign $0 for your time. This certainly can be fun, but not":cost effective".
I agree with this. As something of a "jig addict" I always have one tied on. What I like in a jig changes from season to season and year to year. I would wind up buying many molds. What I find more cost effective is to purchase finished jig heads and then tie my own skirts. A finished jig with a trailer then costs me about $ 1.50 on average.
adam lancia reply :
Cut your old senkos into 1/2" long chunks and stuff a piece into the nose of your tubes. It makes it much easier to t-rig them, especially if you use hooks with a spiral bait keeper like an Owner Twistlock.
Used gear is a huge money saver, especially if you like high end gear.
Same with mono backing on reels.
WIGuide reply :
Use a section of tooth pick stuck through your jig trailer at the bend of the hook to keep it from sliding down. Saves a ton of money on trailers.
DrMarlboro92 reply :
If you are a bank Or kayak/canoe Fisher, go buy an 8ft long piece of 6" Pvc pipe, then order conduit carrier kits from Amazon for $50. stuff a bit of polyethylene foam in the ends, and many a strip across the bottom, and you now have a locking, extremely durable rod carrier for your truck under $100 instead of paying $3-500 for the exact same thing.
One that everyone knows, is when your braid starts looking old and used, spool it into another reel. now you have new braid without having to go buy any more.
Do you like crank baits as much as I Do? If so you know that line test means a lot when fishing them. Buy a few spools for your reel, then spool them up with different test line and take them with you. now you no longer have to respool your rod when you need a few extra feet on the dive. this one costs a bit up front, but it saves money down the road.
Find a fishing buddy who likes to fish as much as you do. That way, you can split costs on fuel. It's very useful for those of us who have to drive a ways to the lake.
Buy some mend-it. You will keep soft plastics twice as long, and if you are as cheap as i am that trailer you cut 1/2 inch off of can now be put back together And used on it's own.
Are you a big coffee drinker? save the grounds and once they are cool marinate your soft plastics in them (I've thrown a crank bait or two in there before as well). congratulations as you now have coffee scented lures without buying anything.
IndianaFinesse reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 12:24 AM, the reel ess said:
I use a kayak. $600 vs whatever you can stand to pay for a bass boat that depreciates faster than a new car.
Or you could do what I did, for another ~$400 you could get a decent used 14 foot aluminum boat with a small outboard and a trolling motor, plus they often come with things like anchors, fish finders (mine came with two) bilge pumps, rope, etc. It is way better than using a canoe or kayak like I used to, well worth the extra money in my opinion.
Oh, and those little motors don't burn squat for gas, my 9.9 hp motor only burns about half of a gallon per trip at most.
burrows reply :
On 11/28/2016 at 1:32 AM, CrustyMono said:1. Use backing to save line
2. Use line conditioner to save florocarbon
3. Use Yum Dingers instead of GYBs
4. Use braid on spinning reels and tie leaders
5. Melt used soft plastics and use them again
6. Use a cheaper rod for topwater because you don't need sensitivity; therefore, you can get away with lower modulus blanks
#6 is the best tip.
CrustyMono reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 3:37 AM, DrMarlboro92 said:Are you a big coffee drinker? save the grounds and once they are cool marinate your soft plastics in them (I've thrown a crank bait or two in there before as well). congratulations as you now have coffee scented lures without buying anything.
Anyone else do this? I know that Strike King does this and it works pretty well.
MIbassyaker reply :
It seems kind of obvious, but I haven't seen it mentioned (although basically the same advice as The Reel Ess' trick worm, er..trick): When you have 4"+ creature baits, fish them on a texas rig first. Then, once the nose gets torn up, cut off the first 1/2" and use as a jig trailer. I do this with Rage tail space monkeys and Zoom baby brush hogs all the time.
And invest in a lure-retriever!! It will pay for itself almost immediately.
DrMarlboro92 reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 12:43 PM, MIbassyaker said:
And invest in a lure-retriever!! It will pay for itself almost immediately.
Can confirm. I took my bucca shad out for the first time, got it hung submerged tree, and thanks to having my $5 knocker i came out not being $50 even more broke. in fact thanks to this, the only bait I have lost this year was a rattle trap that snapped on the cast.... d**n nicked line.
Edit: hell to even think about it... I've dredged up 3 rods this year with it. only one was mine... So score.
Catt reply :
Some people call em Marsh Anchors or Cajun Anchors
Cajun's call em Throw Down Poles!
You can drill a hole & attach a shackle.
Or weld a nut on top
Vary the length to hold larger boats
Tie one end of the rope to the pole the other to your boat, when you wanna anchor simply throw it down kinda hard & you're anchored!
the reel ess reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 8:45 AM, IndianaFinesse said:Or you could do what I did, for another ~$400 you could get a decent used 14 foot aluminum boat with a small outboard and a trolling motor, plus they often come with things like anchors, fish finders (mine came with two) bilge pumps, rope, etc. It is way better than using a canoe or kayak like I used to, well worth the extra money in my opinion.
Oh, and those little motors don't burn squat for gas, my 9.9 hp motor only burns about half of a gallon per trip at most.
I have a bigger boat, just don't use it. That's a matter of opinion. I can load it by hand and put it in anywhere I like and it burns no gas, requires no battery and give me exercise. Plus I know that I catch more and bigger bass from it since I mostly fish smaller waters. Don't get me wrong, I'd like to have what you have for fishing a little bigger places. But for now there seem to be other toys I want more. If I did spend the extra, and I probably will one day, I'd get a better kayak. 
It's my thing.
scaleface reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 8:03 PM, Catt said:Some people call em Marsh Anchors or Cajun Anchors
Cajun's call em Throw Down Poles!
You can drill a hole & attach a shackle.
Or weld a nut on top
Vary the length to hold larger boats
Tie one end of the rope to the pole the other to your boat, when you wanna anchor simply throw it down kinda hard & you're anchored!
Will this work in hard clay ?
I fish small conservation dept lakes more than my home lake {Mark Twain } save tons of gas money and catch more fish and bigger fish . The one I fish the most has free boats . I hook up a trolling motor , depth finder , take some marker buoys and fish it just like large reservoirs for a fraction of the cost .
Catt reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 9:55 PM, scaleface said:Will this work in hard clay ?
I fish small conservation dept lakes more than my home lake {Mark Twain } save tons of gas money and catch more fish and bigger fish . The one I fish the most has free boats . I hook up a trolling motor , depth finder , take some marker buoys and fish it just like large reservoirs for a fraction of the cost .
Depends on the size boat, depth of water, & weight of the rod
Mine is a 3' × 1/2" stainless steel rod, it holds a 16' x 52" Alweld in 5-6' of water.
Any material rod works great, I've see em 6-8' long holding 18' bay boats.
scaleface reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 11:25 PM, Catt said:Depends on the size boat, depth of water, & weight of the rod
Mine is a 3' × 1/2" stainless steel rod, it holds a 16' x 52" Alweld in 5-6' of water.
Any material rod works great, I've see em 6-8' long holding 18' bay boats.
I have a 22 foot Lowe and need something to hold in 20 foot of water with a hard clay bottom . My fluke anchors do not dig in and they skip .
Catt reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 11:32 PM, scaleface said:I have a 22 foot Lowe and need something to hold in 20 foot of water with a hard clay bottom . My fluke anchors do not dig in and they skip .
20' of water is out of range for a throw down pole!
J Francho reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 11:32 PM, scaleface said:I have a 22 foot Lowe and need something to hold in 20 foot of water with a hard clay bottom . My fluke anchors do not dig in and they skip .
Get a couple of 15# mushroom anchors, or fill a big coffee can with Quickcrete, and stick a long eye bolt with two nuts and big fenders in it before it dries.Tie a rope to the eye bolt. Done.
Mosster47 reply :
1. Buy high end gear used. It's out there. Be patient and save yourself a fortune.
2. Figure out a Senko alternative. At $1 a pop there are so many cheap and easy alternatives that only require minor tweaking.
3. Have a storage system that preserves your bait. I have plastics that are 30 years old that are still in perfect shape.
4. Stick to four colors. There are like 82 colors of straight tail Roboworms. I think there are more Senko colors than that. If you're throwing a lipless 99.9% of the time craw, lava, and lava craw are going to catch the same fish.
5. Regularly Scheduled Maintenance. If you have a boat replace your lower end oil, air filter, and fuel filter every year. Change your impeller every 100 hours or two years, etc. A couple hundred bucks a year to keep everything running will be much easier to deal with than replacing a power head or lower unit way before you were planning.
lo n slo reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 11:43 PM, J Francho said:Get a couple of 15# mushroom anchors, or fill a big coffee can with Quickcrete, and stick a long eye bolt with two nuts and big fenders in it before it dries.Tie a rope to the eye bolt. Done.
nice
i've used old window weights before. 3 rigged together with aluminum wire, or even duct tape, can weigh up to 25 lbs. wrap your rope around them and they stow easily in a small johnny.
J Francho reply :
My buddy still uses window weights to drift for smallies.
fishwizzard reply :
Assuming you guys have lead window weights, you would be far better off selling them to a bullet/jig caster and buying some thing cheaper to use as an anchor.
RB 77 reply :
On 11/27/2016 at 1:12 AM, Glenn said:Please share some of your money savers.
For example, instead of those nail weights for flukes and worms. I cut up lead core solder into different size pieces. You can also wrap solder around the hooks of a bait to add weight instead of buying suspend strips or dots
I do the exact same thing for a nail weighted presentation.
On 11/27/2016 at 11:49 PM, Jon G said:always use backing on your reels.
Yup! Always...
lo n slo reply :
On 11/30/2016 at 11:27 PM, Bunnielab said:Assuming you guys have lead window weights, you would be far better off selling them to a bullet/jig caster and buying some thing cheaper to use as an anchor.
the weights i've used were all made of iron but i do like that idea.
Yeajray231 reply :
On 11/30/2016 at 7:51 AM, Mosster47 said:1. Buy high end gear used. It's out there. Be patient and save yourself a fortune.
2. Figure out a Senko alternative. At $1 a pop there are so many cheap and easy alternatives that only require minor tweaking.
3. Have a storage system that preserves your bait. I have plastics that are 30 years old that are still in perfect shape.
4. Stick to four colors. There are like 82 colors of straight tail Roboworms. I think there are more Senko colors than that. If you're throwing a lipless 99.9% of the time craw, lava, and lava craw are going to catch the same fish.
5. Regularly Scheduled Maintenance. If you have a boat replace your lower end oil, air filter, and fuel filter every year. Change your impeller every 100 hours or two , etc. A couple hundred bucks a year to keep everything running will be much easier to deal with than replacing a power head or lower unit way before you were planning.
How do you store your plastics ?
Mosster47 reply :
On 12/1/2016 at 1:24 AM, Yeajray231 said:How do you store your plastics ?
Bulk stuff in Ziploc freezer bags stored in a duffel bag. My ready to go stuff is in Plano 3700 boxes.
slonezp reply :
Don't think I saw this one. When using braid on a baitcaster you can get twice the life out of it by putting it on a different reel. Once you believe the has seen better days, put the reel in freespool and tie the end to the spool of an empty reel and you can now fill the empty spool. All the braid that never saw the light of day is now on the outside of the spool and the well used line is on the bottom of the spool.
the reel ess reply :
Cinder blocks make good, cheap pontoon boat anchors. If you lose one you're out about 40 cents. On a really breezy day, use two.
KDW96 reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 11:25 PM, Catt said:Depends on the size boat, depth of water, & weight of the rod
Mine is a 3' × 1/2" stainless steel rod, it holds a 16' x 52" Alweld in 5-6' of water.
Any material rod works great, I've see em 6-8' long holding 18' bay boats.
I made some out of 36in rebar, 1inch round. Had a solid 1 1/4 ring welded to one end. My grinder made the tip real nice. works very well,i never did way it though
dragger201 reply :
On 11/28/2016 at 9:15 AM, whitwolf said:While I buy old discontinued Rebel baits, the thing that has saved me more money than anything is this; as I fish from year to year I know exactly what I like to fish and what works for me. Yes, I still buy some things that strike my fancy but the simplification of bait selection has saved me hundreds of dollars a year.
I also now take care of my equipment on a much more regular schedule. I have reels that are over 20 years old that are in excellent working condition. I do have many newer reels but If I have a problem my back-ups are more than adequate.
The last thing I want to share is this: I tend to fun fish more and more and simply having fun, taking In the sights and sounds of nature, and never taking for granted the time I get to spend on the water, well, you can't "buy" that.
GOSPEL!!!
On 11/28/2016 at 9:49 PM, the reel ess said:I do 1, 3, 4 & 6. Except I don't use leaders for the most part. My topwaters, cranks, spinnerbaits and buzzbaits rods are Berkley Lightning Rods that I bought on clearance. Light and insensitive.
I got 3 of those Berkleys and I like 'em.................alot. I gotta get me one more rod and that's gonna be another Lightning.
"hamma" reply :
If you like the lightning rod? they just re-introduced their series one rods,,..A quality rod before, im sure even better now.
the reel ess reply :
On 12/4/2016 at 4:20 AM, "hamma" said:If you like the lightning rod? they just re-introduced their series one rods,,..A quality rod before, im sure even better now.
There was a time in my fishing "career" where I thought Lightning was a top quality rod.
I have older MH and a M 6-6 BC rods and a newer M spinning rod. All of them are for presentations that don't require sensitivity. In fact, you can benefit from the lack of sensitivity.
bigfruits reply :
buy good gear the first time.
"hamma" reply :
I have a couple lightning rods, they are both Med Heavy and are used for "sensitive" presentations, and I have no issues with them at all. one is a 7 ft spinning and the other a casting 7 ftr.
Now, although when I fish alone I set them up for jig fishing, or maybe even a worm, and sometimes a jerkbait. I do leave them home when I go with another angler, exception being my daughters, as I let them use the spinning rod. When they graduate to baitcasters, the 7 ft baitcaster will get the nod.,... (this coming spring)
I do get the sensitive thing as I do have some really sensitive gear for bottom bouncing, but still dont negate the lightning rods at all. They may be a less expensive rod, But there is yet to be a rod built with more money, time, and testing involved in its design. I have taught all 3 of my daughters to fish both searchbaits and bottom bouncing and we all have used the lightning rod for both with success. A jighead with a plastic, to a jerkbait, that spinning rod has done it all. It provides "enough" sensitivity to warrant its use for any and all the lures we've bottom bounced with.
It may not be the "best" but for the money? try and beat it, it's just not going to happen. I do have a cheaper shimano convergence heavy action that come close, but still not "better".
I rarely spend alot of money for a rod, and im kinda surprised I dont have any of the newer shock series yet. But I dont fish braid, and thats what these shocks are designed for. Even the techniques that dont "require" alot of sensitivity, will benefit from some. Topwaters, spinnerbaits, jerkbaits and even crankbaits fished on a rod with some sensitivity, are better served this way. The feel of a fish after a topwaters hit is crucial, same goes for the other 3 lures. At least,.. I believe this to be benefitial in these less sensitive demanding techniques.
Big fruits point holds some merit, the better your gear the better its going to serve you. But money is what it is and not all of us can afford GLoomis rods. And I am one of these anglers, So I buy what I can, when I can, and make due. My most expensive setup is a original shimano crucial telescoping c-rig/jig rig rod (thats actually a Gloomis blank) and a shimano 201 calcutta reel. Awesome setup, I love using it and it's yet to fail me in almost 20 years. But I also have some much less expensive setups that see even more use and kicks bass.
Since this thread is about money saving, heres a trick or tip for checking a rod out before buying it.
I will check its tip but appyling pressure to the rods tip with one finger only, and push up by the handle checking its parabolic bend and action, then I will hold the handle as if i'm fishing it, and very lightly touch the floor with the rods tip, sliding it back and forth "feeling" its sensitivity. The feeling transmitted will tell you how sensitive it really is, ,... do this with several different makes and models and you will see what I mean, a whip or 2 like your casting will give an idea of how the rod loads a cast.
I've been doing this for over 30 years and have yet to buy a rod I'm dissapointed with. I have found that a inexpensive doesn't always mean "cheap" by any means. If a rod offers a place to touch the blank while reeling, and is made from a graphite or better blank, then its most likely a "decent" rod as far as feel goes. Add on a graphite reel seat, fugi guides, and im happy.
scaleface reply :
I have 5 Lightning rod's . 2 original 5'6'' med hvy casting , 1 original 6'0'' med hevy . casting , 1 6'0'' light action spinning . Then i have a 6'6'' med hvy but its a later generation and I never shined up to it much . Its just not the same quality .
CrustyMono reply :
This thread went from Money Saving Tricks to Berkley Lightning Rod!
Alan Reed reply :
The biggest money tip I can offer is don't by every lure that is out there. I know lots of people that have bought lures and they have never really even thought about using them when Luton the water.
Bassfishnc18 reply :
Use the wacky tool with o-rings for wacky rigging.
Use off brand stick baits ( bps, yum dingers, big bite baits, etc) instead of GYB senkos.
Fish less with hard baits as they are generally more pricey than soft plastics or jigs.
IndianaFinesse reply :
On 12/5/2016 at 1:19 AM, Bassfishnc18 said:Fish less with hard baits as they are generally more pricey than soft plastics or jigs.
On the contrary, soft plastics are the baits that you have to buy the hooks, sinkers and the actual bait separately, which adds up quickly. Plus on an average day of fishing you might go threw at least a bag or two of plastics, while with hard baits you can use them forever.
JRammit reply :
instead of buying expensive drop shot weights, use cheap split shots... Tie a simple over hand knot at the end of your line and the weight won't slide off
Bassfishnc18 reply :
On 12/5/2016 at 2:47 AM, IndianaFinesse said:On the contrary, soft plastics are the baits that you have to buy the hooks, sinkers and the actual bait separately, which adds up quickly. Plus on an average day of fishing you might go threw at least a bag or two of plastics, while with hard baits you can use them forever.
True but when fishing hard baits established around cover the will get hung and thats where it becomes expensive, losing 3-4 cranks one day which can add up to 60$ or more.
IndianaFinesse reply :
On 12/5/2016 at 4:51 AM, Bassfishnc18 said:True but when fishing hard baits established around cover the will get hung and thats where it becomes expensive, losing 3-4 cranks one day which can add up to 60$ or more.
That could be true if you don't put the amount of effort into retrieving snagged lures that I do, I always carry a plug knocker and if that doesn't work I will swim for it, even if it's ten feet down or way back underneath a dock. It is extremely rare that I have to break off on something, the only time I have to is if it's snagged in water over ten feet deep and I can't get it out with my plug knocker.
Outdoor Zack reply :
On 11/29/2016 at 12:24 AM, the reel ess said:Pfleuger Trion is the best spinning reel for the price ($40) I have seen, IMO.
I think so as well
On 11/28/2016 at 11:24 AM, the reel ess said:Berkley Big Game!!!
Great line for the price. I got a 1700 yd. spool a while ago at wally world for like $5. Enough mono for me for 2017 at least
geo g reply :
I'm a plastics fisherman 90% of the time. When my senkos, trick worms, Zoom centipedes, speed worms, u-tails, Beavers, creature baits ect., Get torn up at the nose I will turn them around and rig them the opposite way. Sometimes just bite off a half inch where they are torn up, works perfect! Fishing 300 days a year this really saves a bunch of money. When their really torn up on both ends, you can wacky rig in the middle. The more torn up the better the action, as they fall through the water column. I love when their torn-up in the middle, because now the action really increases as you jerk and slack the bait. Get the max out of your baits and at least a 50% discount at the same time. I guarantee the bass don't care!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Oklahoma Mike reply :
If you bank fish and sometimes end up with lures in trees, or even for boat fishing banks with heavy tree lines, here's a handy retrieval tool I made:
Go buy a telescoping pole that's made for changing light bulbs http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bayco-11-ft-Pole-Light-Bulb-Changer-Kit-with-Attachments-CE-600SDLB12/100354521
Toss the accessories and attach a loop of webbing to the top of it. I used a cut off piece of a webbed tactical belt. Now you have a tool that you can use to snag the hooks of your hanging lure and pull them out of the tree. As a bonus, the pole collapses to around 4-5' - holding it with the webbed loop at the top, it can now also double as a walking stick, which can be handy for pond fishing if you are hiking in and out.
hunterPRO1 reply :
on a paddle tail swimbait get to torn up to texas rig i use them as a trailer on a spinner bait or buzz bait
Jon P. reply :
instead of buying lead moulding gear and ingots just buy epoxy and tungsten powder, make a 50/50 mix of epoxy and tungsten, spray UMR mould release on your lead mould and poor that cheap stuff in
MassYak85 reply :
Buying multiple spools instead of buying multiple setups and just having different line you can switch out can save a lot. It can also save on line costs if you are someone who changes line out frequently to achieve different running depths on crankbaits.
A-Jay reply :
On 12/9/2016 at 1:36 AM, MassYak85 said:Buying multiple spools instead of buying multiple setups and just having different line you can switch out can save a lot. It can also save on line costs if you are someone who changes line out frequently to achieve different running depths on crankbaits.
Yes Sir ~ I started doing this for my casting reels on the first trip south of the border a while back. Definitely allowed me to get quite a bit off flexibility out of the four rods I chose to pack. As it turned out - it's a 20 pound Mono Only deal but it was still a good thing having some options.
Now I still use the casting reel multiple spool deal a ton on my home waters. An Especially effective system when virtually ALL my reels are very similar (Brand / model) in that they will all accept the same spools interchangeably. When fishing several days in a row, on different bodies of water, some habitats may be vastly different and each demands different techniques and or presentations. If I want to fish a certain stick but need a different type or size line, a quick spool change and I'm back in the game. Helps in zeroing in on the right depth with certain cranks as well.
My biggest challenge may be identifying each spool correctly. Currently keeping each spool in small zip lock bags labeled with the line type & size. Not keeping that deal straight really defeats the whole purpose.
A-Jay
Bass Turd reply :
On 12/9/2016 at 1:01 AM, Jon P. said:instead of buying lead molding gear and ingots just buy epoxy and tungsten powder, make a 50/50 mix of epoxy and tungsten, spray UMR mold release on your lead mold and poor that cheap stuff in
How do the actual weight of your epoxy/tungsten powder compare to what the weight is supposed to be. In other words you pour your mixture in a one ounce led mold. What does it actually weigh?
Jon P. reply :
I've never measured the weight differential, it never really occured to me. but if you find the volume of 1 oz. of pure lead, divide that volume by two, and calculate the weight of that volume in tungsten and then in epoxy, add the weight of the epoxy and the tungsten, you should get your answer.
roadwarrior reply :
On 12/9/2016 at 4:05 AM, Jon P. said:I've never measured the weight differential, it never really occured to me. but if you find the volume of 1 oz. of pure lead, divide that volume by two, and calculate the weight of that volume in tungsten and then in epoxy, add the weight of the epoxy and the tungsten, you should get your answer.
I don't follow this line of reasoning...pv/2 = t+e
MassYak85 reply :
On 12/9/2016 at 4:35 AM, roadwarrior said:I don't follow this line of reasoning...pv/2 = t+e
I think he's saying that if a 1 ounce lead jig had a volume of X, that to get the weight of his special jigs you would need to add the weight of tungsten that would occupy X/2 and the weight of epoxy that would occupy X/2. Assuming he did indeed use a 1 to 1 ratio of tungsten and epoxy resin by volume.
Jon P. reply :
On 12/9/2016 at 6:53 AM, MassYak85 said:I think he's saying that if a 1 ounce lead jig had a volume of X, that to get the weight of his special jigs you would need to add the weight of tungsten that would occupy X/2 and the weight of epoxy that would occupy X/2. Assuming he did indeed use a 1 to 1 ratio of tungsten and epoxy resin by volume.
thank you, I'm not the best with words or math
livin2fish reply :
If the dog (choke chain) collar plug knocker for cranks has already been listed, disregard this post. Parts: Choke chain (make loops that will catch CB hooks), broken Ugly Stick cut down to first eye, retired cranking reel, 65# or larger (old) braid, large clip but small enough to not slip over crank bait, two heavy zip ties (one will work if strong enough). This probably will work best from a boat where you can position directly over the lure you are trying to retrieve. Sometimes trebles will need to be replaced but not often.
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