Hey guys! New to bass fishing but not to fishing itself.. I was wondering if it is a good idea to put a jig (football, swim, finesse,) on a snap swivel? I don't own a boat so I fish from shore. I like moving around and trying different colors, sizes, trailers, etc. as I move around. Will putting a jig on a snap swivel affect it? Or would it be a better idea to tie on straight?
Straight to line.
I only fish soft plastics and i direct tie almost everything.I will use a swivel when i go weightless with soft plastics to reduce line twist.
I rarely, if ever, use a swivel. I feel like snap swivels will break or open before line breaks in some cases. Swivels can, a lot of times, negatively affect the action of the bait you are throwing as well.
No swivel, Palomar knot. Swivels are mostly iffy -- you can buy some heavier-duty ones -- but you want that straight connection of line to hook.
I use the cheaper Wal-Mart locking standard snap swivels on my what I call dead lures they don't do any side to side movement. Like jigs, worms, carolina rigs, brushogs etc. get the standard locking snap swivel. With my spinnerbaits, inline spinners, crankbaits, topwater spooks, etc. I use the ball bearing snap swivels. So they will hinge faster movement wise. I figure I get a little more free side to side wiggle with my crankbaits.
Plus I can change out my baits much faster than trying to tie when I can just about see the line with out my eye glasses on in the daylight. Forget about tying knots at night in the dark. Before I fish in the dark I retie all my rod setups snap swivel wise.
TIP;
When using the locking snap swivels or just knots RETIE OFTEN. After every decent size bass is caught please retie. Knot failure isn't an option. Don't lose a new PB or that fish of a lifetime.
I almost always tie directly to the lure. The only exception is when I'm casting spoons. For those, I use a ball bearing swivel (no snap, thanks) attached to the spoon with a split ring. The only place I use a snap is on blade baits (Silver Buddy-type baits) where I'll attach a Duo-Lock snap.
Tom
I 99% of the time use a snap (no swivel) and I've never had a problem with them or catching fish with them on there. The ones I use are bulk snaps from ebay too so they are nothing special.
I've just got my first jig hooks — a set of Owner shaky head. I tied directly to the line. I can't see how a snap swivel would help other than convenience, but the negative trade-offs (many mentioned above) would probably outweigh the benefits.
As a new angler myself and a bank fisherman with only one rod/reel to boot, I was really interested in different snap swivels. I tried several of them — traditional snap swivels, Norton Quick Twists, and Normal Speed Clips. Ultimately, I've eliminated them all with one exception.
They either messed up the action of the lures, resulted in line-and-treble-hook tangles, and/or were just too fiddly. The jury is still out on the Normal Speed Clip and a topwater spook type lure (using it instead of a split ring).
Finally, I've found that my main lure choices required such different setups that it was easier to cut and retie. There was no time savings using a snap. What i really need is a second rod and reel.
Good luck!
I'll have to add that I mainly fish from the bank where carrying more than one rod would be an inconvenience, and also from a kayak, where space becomes an issue on carrying more than 2 rods. Being able to unclip one bait and clip another on quickly while in current can make a big difference when you are floating past a good hole on a river.
Jigs should be tied direct to the line. Since this is a "feel" bait, you don't want anything between the rod tip and the bait.
On 9/19/2013 at 10:31 PM, J Francho said:Jigs should be tied direct to the line. Since this is a "feel" bait, you don't want anything between the rod tip and the bait.
Forgot to mention this too. Swivel will GREATLY reduce your feel fishing a jig, or any other bait that you just sense bites with.
And to whoever said you should retie often whether using a swivel or not, doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose of using a swivel? If you are going to retie the knot all the time anyways why would you deal with all the negatives of a swivel?
I tie directly to the line except when I know I will be fishing a lot of crank baits. In that case I will have a snap on one of my rigs.
Like moguy1973 I don't have a boat, and I only carry 2 rods max. I don't use a swivel per say, but I use this kind here.....
http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-FastLock-Bass-Snap/product/7816/
....and I've never had any kind of issue whatsoever. I've never even had one remotely bent. I use 50lb braid on my baitcaster and once when snagging "something immoveable" underwater (I think the old housing from a water fountain), it actually broke my wide gap Gamakatsu senko hook before it broke my line, knot, or snap. No lie. It was shocking. It popped and sounded like a .40cal going off.
I've heard the same arguement that fish can "see" the snap. My guess is that if you're using a spinnerbait with all its flash, vibration, and color, or a crank that makes more vibration than a imbalanced washing machine.... some little ole' snap isn't going to be what turns off the bite.
The only thing I have witnessed is that it does in-fact cause some cranks to have different action. But I'm not a big crankbait guy, so it doesn't influence my decision all that much. Being able to switch a bait at a moment's notice (and not having 9 rods lined out in front of me) is worth more to me than the perceived negatives.
In some rare cases, when I know a frog is the ONLY thing I'll be throwing, I'll tie directly to the line. But that's the only case I ever do that.
I am for rotating baits until I find a pattern.
I was almost exclusive tie-direct until last year. I use snaps and snap swivels often these days. The swivel part is probably not needed for me, but I use them since I have some in my box. I tend to use heavier baits in general and not much of finesse fisher man. And the way I fish, I do not believe I am loosing sensibility, even with jigs. If you are on lighter set up the effect might be bigger. Try for yourself in a shallow clear water to see how you feel when your bait bumps into a small rock and to see how snap swivels interfere with the signal you get on your rod. In my test, I didn't see the diff.
One thing, don't use cheap no brand hardware. I tested these hardware myself. I picked up a bag from local store and was shocked how easy it was to break. I have confidence (for now) that my hardware will not break before my hook straightens out.
I'll use snaps for cranks and spoons, but that's simply to use a stronger Palomar knot with fluoro. Otherwise, I can tie a Uni knot in about the same time it takes to open a snap, remove the bait, add a new bait, and close it.
I tried using swivels when switching between different lipless crankbaits quickly, as I had heard someone say to do that in a video, but I didn't like it. I don't know that I would use them otherwise.
I use swivels except when targeting mackerel. I always use leaders, lures get a loop knot and jigs get a clinch knot. I retie or replace a leader only when needed.
Swivels and snaps will make some baits actions change. Especially swimbaits. If you must, use a snap as there is less chance of them breaking and coming open and then only use the Owner Cross lock snaps or their welded snaps as they are made from stainless steel and less likely to break or come open.
Thanks guys!
Verdict: I found that it was a better idea tying my jig and trailer direct. The presentation looked better. And I had this feeling it was going to snap off during my cast. Then again I went light (8lb. Fluoro, 1/4 ounce strike king swim gig, berkley 4"pit boss,) was practicing my techniques! Yea, it looked better without the snap and felt better. I find the snap swivel come in handy when I use spinner baits! Thanks again guys for all the info! Didn't catch my PB but was able to brush up on my techniques! Next technique I'll be practicing is the art of Texas rigging!!
I always tie directly to the line...the snaps are handy to save a few seconds, but it encourages not checking your line for damage, subsequently losing fish....
I would never ever use snap swivels their way to risky they can open up any time and may loose you the fish of a life time.
I usually keep a snap swivel on one rod and use that for spoons, spinners and spinnerbaits. All the rest of my rods are straight to line.
I use interlock swivels I forget the size but its heavy gage wire. Too many standard swivels have come undone for me and I switch up lures alot so swivels are a must. Never had a problem not feelin any strikes etc.
Only thing I will warn is, I've used every type of connector even the tactical clips and NONE of them is foolproof with walk-the-dog.
That is, walkin-the-dog, I've had every kind of connector fail.. coastal, interlock, tacticals, etc.. u name it..
I still use interlock.. just use my pliers and crimp it shut..but for walkin.. I'd say for most.. better to tie direct.
It always boils down to one's own choice based on past history. I do not use any kind of snap/swivel to attach lures, I will use a duolock for freshwater fishing and sometimes in saltwater but usually a loopknot. I don't ever recall having any kind snap or snap/swivel combination ever failing. I have seen other fishermen using inexpensive barrel swivels and have seen them pulled apart few times, but pretty rare and these were on saltwater species. The barrel swivel IMO is no more than a line connector, I use BB or power swivels which I feel reduce line twist much better.
On 9/27/2013 at 12:58 PM, SirSnookalot said:It always boils down to one's own choice based on past history. I do not use any kind of snap/swivel to attach lures, I will use a duolock for freshwater fishing and sometimes in saltwater but usually a loopknot. I don't ever recall having any kind snap or snap/swivel combination ever failing. I have seen other fishermen using inexpensive barrel swivels and have seen them pulled apart few times, but pretty rare and these were on saltwater species. The barrel swivel IMO is no more than a line connector, I use BB or power swivels which I feel reduce line twist much better.
I had a swivel wire ripped out of a barrel on me .. had to go into the drink to fetch my expensive lure.
Opened my eyes to what can fail on a connector..
On 9/27/2013 at 10:33 PM, einscodek said:I had a swivel wire ripped out of a barrel on me .. had to go into the drink to fetch my expensive lure.
Opened my eyes to what can fail on a connector..
If I used anything for quick change it would be a duolock style snap, I have never had one open or fail in any manner. Swivels used as line connectors are rated by pounds. Power swivels are not expensive and come in all poundages and they are surprising small. I have some pretty small ones rated at 90 and 100#, I don't seem them being pulled apart, a knot has a better chance of failing.
I'm somewhat different than most folks. I have a condition called Essential Tremors, which means that my hands shake. Trying to retie a simple knot like the Palomar while on the water can be a fifteen minute ordeal for me. For that reason, most all of my rods are pre-rigged with Duolock snaps with no swivels I haven't noticed any appreciable difference in my catch ratio. I think it all boils down to personal preference, and nothing more.
On 9/20/2013 at 3:15 AM, J Francho said:I'll use snaps for cranks and spoons, but that's simply to use a stronger Palomar knot with fluoro. Otherwise, I can tie a Uni knot in about the same time it takes to open a snap, remove the bait, add a new bait, and close it.
When bank fishing it takes more time before and after actual tying. (Finding a spot to put the back pack down, putting the back pack down, putting the rod down, getting the pair of scissors out ...and reverse of everything. ) It probably don't take much time if you actually time it with stop watch, but if you rotate enough baits, you become tired of it and eventuality get lazy about changing the baits. At least that's what happened to me.
When fishing from a boat with lots of rods, this is not much of an issue.
I fish both from bank and from a boat.
I personally want the least amount of possible points of failure. To me, a swivel or snap is an avoidable point of failure. I have had them pop open on me before, I just had the cross lock style snap on a ZMan Chatterbair pop open on a 6lber recently. Plus, swivels and snaps collect weeds, can change the suspending or floating characteristics of a bait, and in my eyes reduce the realism of a presentation. Besides, I retie quite a bit, and every time I change a lure I want the confidence that I have a solid, strong, new knot. The added time is minimal at best, and is redeemed by the added confidence I get.
On 9/19/2013 at 2:33 PM, 702bassdude said:Hey guys! New to bass fishing but not to fishing itself.. I was wondering if it is a good idea to put a jig (football, swim, finesse,) on a snap swivel? I don't own a boat so I fish from shore. I like moving around and trying different colors, sizes, trailers, etc. as I move around. Will putting a jig on a snap swivel affect it? Or would it be a better idea to tie on straight?
The real reason why you want to go straight to line is so that you are not changing the presentation of the lure. Having a swivel can add weight to the presentation. It can also cause the presentation to swim differently, etc....
Stop being lazy and just learn to tie a knot quick and fast. Beside that, tying a new knot will ensure you that you are getting a good knot before you cast out a new/different lure.
I only use a t-bar snap when crank baiting. The right size can not only allow you to switch cranks quickly but give your cranks a little more wobble and action. Other than that... Always tie directly to bait. No questions asked