New At Drop Shot Rigging: Question 2024
MobyGrape reply :
I'm new at drop shot fishing. I've watched various youtube videos explaining drop shot rigging. Not everybody uses the same techniques. My question is, am i required to use a specific "drop shot hook & weight"? Couldn't i use any #1 hook & any type of weight as long as it's between 1/4-3/8 oz. weight?
Angry John reply :
The weights are designed to slide off if hung up giving you back the rest of the rig. The hook is your choice as i have used a lot and a few good ones. Are you running a standard nose hook or texas rigged on a heavier setup. I sometimes run the gamy finess wide gap with the weed guard.
Edited by Angry JohnRoLo reply :
As long as it provides the desired weight (usually 1/8-1/2 oz), any sinker can be used with a drop-shot rig.
However, one of the big advantages of the drop-shot rig over its predecessor the dropper rig,
is the 'drop-shot sinker', which is an adjustable sinker. A 'drop-shot sinker' is not only sacrificial
(breakaway without losing the whole rig), but the distance between the bottom and the hook can be
repeatedly readjusted without any retying.
Your favorite #1 hook would be fine for drop-shotting as long as it's not a heavy wire hook,
which causes bait droop and an unnatural delivery. Nose-hooking is by far the most popular rigging,
but in weedy areas you can also Texas rig your bait. For instance, Roboworm offers
a drop-shot rebarb hook for T-rigging.
Roger
MobyGrape reply :
I haven't tried any type of drop shot rig yet.
Darren. reply :
Agree with @RoLo, drop shot weights offer the advantage
of not losing the entire rig...
But they are not required. In fact, I've been testing out a
method from Gary Senft (AZ bass pro) in which he slides
a bobber stop on the line first, then his hook, then another
bobber stop (no knot).
Then at the bottom, you actually tie on a weight - this can be
any weight, honestly, but some are better than others at
coming through rocks, and so forth.
The bobber stops on either side allow "infinite" adjustment of
the distance from hook to weight.
My testing has been 100% successful thus far. Once the bass
takes the bait, set the hook as normal for DS (reel down and
lift, or sweep). The bait slides down to the weight and you bring
the bass in, unhook, reset hook, done. (I don't use barrel swivel).
WRB reply :
You can rig it anyway you want but the results may not be what you expect.
Almost everyone over fishes the drop shot rig until they learn it's nearly a dead stick presentation with small rod tip movements.
Unless you are using line over 12 lb test, fishing water over 30' deep and in the wind, you rarely need a weight over 1/4 oz. 1/8, 3/16, 1/4 drop shot weights with a built in swivel line clip are inexpensive and recommend you use them. Aaron Martens method of node hooking and wacky hooking works great, watch his video.
I use Owner Mosqiuto size 1 hook for nose and wacky hooking finesse worms. Owner #5133 size 1/0 or 2/0 for weedless hooking depending on the soft plastic body diameter. Sunline 7# Super Sniper FC line, 2 power fast action spinning outfit for the majority of my drop shot presentations.
Tom
RoLo reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 1:37 AM, WRB said:You can rig it anyway you want but the results may not be what you expect.
Almost everyone over fishes the drop shot rig until they learn it's nearly a dead stick presentation with small rod tip movements. Unless you are using line over 12 lb test, fishing water over 30' deep and in the wind, you rarely need a weight over 1/4 oz.
As Tom suggests, "overworking" the bait is Drop-shot Enemy No.1 (something I learned the hard way)
Most lures are activated by raising the rod-tip, but the best way to activate a drop-shot bait
is by lowering the rod-tip, which activates the bait while still maintaining bottom contact.
Normally, a lure is activated by lifting and dropping the bait, but when nodding the rod-tip
on a drop-shot rig, your bait moves down first, then back up when you tighten the line.
Roger
Fishin' Fool reply :
On 6/4/2017 at 12:03 PM, MobyGrape said:I'm new at drop shot fishing. I've watched various youtube videos explaining drop shot rigging. Not everybody uses the same techniques. My question is, am i required to use a specific "drop shot hook & weight"? Couldn't i use any #1 hook & any type of weight as long as it's between 1/4-3/8 oz. weight?
Yes you could use any hook you want as long as it's a Gamakatsu split shot/drop shot hook in a size 1 and a 1/8th or 3/16th tungsten cylinder weight. Now you have all my secrets 
Dorado reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 8:08 AM, RoLo said:
As Tom suggests, "overworking" the bait is Drop-shot Enemy No.1 (something I learned the hard way)
Most lures are activated by raising the rod-tip, but the best way to activate a drop-shot bait
is by lowering the rod-tip, which activates the bait while still maintaining bottom contact
Roger
That is such sound advice. For me, that is one of the most important components
fishwizzard reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 12:00 AM, Darren. said:Agree with @RoLo, drop shot weights offer the advantage
of not losing the entire rig...
But they are not required. In fact, I've been testing out a
method from Gary Senft (AZ bass pro) in which he slides
a bobber stop on the line first, then his hook, then another
bobber stop (no knot).
Then at the bottom, you actually tie on a weight - this can be
any weight, honestly, but some are better than others at
coming through rocks, and so forth.
The bobber stops on either side allow "infinite" adjustment of
the distance from hook to weight.
My testing has been 100% successful thus far. Once the bass
takes the bait, set the hook as normal for DS (reel down and
lift, or sweep). The bait slides down to the weight and you bring
the bass in, unhook, reset hook, done. (I don't use barrel swivel).
This is breaking my mind. I just bought a small pile of tackle to give dropshotting a go, but this looks like such less hassle.
And add me to the "over-works the lure" club.
Crestliner2008 reply :
Even though I've been drop shotting for more years than I care to think about, I gotta admit, I've just learned something new! Using bobber stops instead of a knot. Excellent idea. Do they make bobber stops in clear plastic?
A final thought. I now believe the drop shot is more of "do nothing" or "dead sticking" approach. When I first started using this techinique, I would jiggle it almost constantly. Now I know better. Just let it sit. You'll get bit.
Darren. reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 8:27 PM, Crestliner2008 said:Even though I've been drop shotting for more years than I care to think about, I gotta admit, I've just learned something new! Using bobber stops instead of a knot. Excellent idea. Do they make bobber stops in clear plastic?
A final thought. I now believe the drop shot is more of "do nothing" or "dead sticking" approach. When I first started using this techinique, I would jiggle it almost constantly. Now I know better. Just let it sit. You'll get bit.
Not that I have seen. I ordered a batch of 100 off Amazon the other
day, and they are *supposed* to be cylindrical instead of oval like
most that we find in stores. They are supposedly thinner and go
thru guides better.
Oh, ordered them in black.
Todd2 reply :
I've only been throwing a DS for a couple of years but it's worked it's way up in the rotation. My experience has been a little different. I've seen days where shaking seems to work better, but I shake with intervals of pauses on slack line. I like the 3/16 oz thin finesse type weights.
As far as the bobber stop trick...I'm trying to wrap my head around that. I'm trying to figure how how dealing with two bobber stops is easier than just tying a Palomar knot with a long tag end that you can adjust drop length by snapping on a DS weight where you want. Not being critical..because it's working, just curious.
Darren. reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 9:48 PM, Todd2 said:I've only been throwing a DS for a couple of years but it's worked it's way up in the rotation. My experience has been a little different. I've seen days where shaking seems to work better, but I shake with intervals of pauses on slack line. I like the 3/16 oz thin finesse type weights.
As far as the bobber stop trick...I'm trying to wrap my head around that. I'm trying to figure how how dealing with two bobber stops is easier than just tying a Palomar knot with a long tag end that you can adjust drop length by snapping a DS weight where you want. Not being critical..because it's working, just curious.
For one, there's no line twist with the bobber stop method.
The hook spins freely. Granted, you can buy spin shot hooks,
but bobber stops are cheaper.
Another positive that I've found is adjusting the hook - you
have more options than simply changing where the weight
is located. If you have the spin shot hook with the ability
to snap in a new length of line-to-weight, then that's a
solution; however, this is ultimately less work.
As well, when walking a shore, or in a kayak and you want to
stow the rod for another technique, or to move locations, you
can slide the hook down to the weight and not have the weight
swinging around getting hung up on your rod, or other rods.
Yeah, you can take off the weight, then reattach, but with
this, you can have your cake and eat it, too...
It's just another rigging method that some will like, others may not.
reerok reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 9:56 PM, Darren. said:
It's just another rigging method that some will like, others may not.
Thanks for sharing this method. I definitely want to try it as I have a deep fear of tying palomar knots with super light flouro. The slightest little burn or twist and there just isn't much knot strength left. This double bobber stopper trick could completely eliminate that.
No one has asked so I will: Is there really enough tension from the bottom stopper to plant the hook in the bass's mouth? Obviously the answer is yes or else you wouldn't be sharing this but it just seems in my feeble brain that the hook would slide down the line instead of stick.
That said I'm looking forward to giving this a go. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
lmbfisherman reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 10:13 PM, reerok said:
Thanks for sharing this method. I definitely want to try it as I have a deep fear of tying palomar knots with super light flouro. The slightest little burn or twist and there just isn't much knot strength left. This double bobber stopper trick could completely eliminate that.
No one has asked so I will: Is there really enough tension from the bottom stopper to plant the hook in the bass's mouth? Obviously the answer is yes or else you wouldn't be sharing this but it just seems in my feeble brain that the hook would slide down the line instead of stick.
That said I'm looking forward to giving this a go. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
My feeble brain is saying the same thing. My brain says the tension from the bottom bobber stop, can it really be enough to get a good hookset. On top of that, what if the bass is a biggun, it just seems like it would be an issue. Of course if people are using it, it must not be a problem! reerok if this works out let me know! No offense Darren I'm sure you wouldn't post something that doesn't work, but my silly brain would like confirmation!
J Francho reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 10:13 PM, reerok said:I definitely want to try it as I have a deep fear of tying palomar knots with super light flouro.
You need to get over that. It's the least cutting knot around. Only cinch the line from the tag end. NEVER the main line.
*******************************************
Further notes about drop shot, specifically deep, vertical drop shot, over 15' deep. Straight fluoro, no leaders. I start at 1/2 oz., and sometimes go up. I don't want my bait to move. Since you aren't casting (it's strictly vertical) the heavy weight is fine on a ML or M rated rod. I'm not married to any particular size hook. Match the hook to the size of the bait. I'll use anything from 1/0 down to a #6 for smallmouth bass. They all work equally well. The Gammy Split Shot hooks are good, as are the Owner Mosquito hooks. Bait wise, use a floating bait if you're after a subtle presentation - pretty much completely still. If you want to twitch, or do the lift-drop presentation for more active fish, then a sinking bait works best.
reerok reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 10:27 PM, J Francho said:
You need to get over that. It's the least cutting knot around. Only cinch the line from the tag end. NEVER the main line.
*******************************************
I know I do. And I use it for my drop shot knots every time I'm on the water. I just scarred myself a few years back when I first started drop shotting and I broke a few off because of lazy knot tying. I'm learning, but I have one thick head with a peanut sized brain.
Off subject: I did switch to the double pitzen knot for flouro tied directly to lures. So far for me it has superior strength and durability (on flouro only!). It's also easier to tie with large treble hook baits. That said, the palomar remains my go to knot in most other situations.
Darren. reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 10:13 PM, reerok said:
Thanks for sharing this method. I definitely want to try it as I have a deep fear of tying palomar knots with super light flouro. The slightest little burn or twist and there just isn't much knot strength left. This double bobber stopper trick could completely eliminate that.
No one has asked so I will: Is there really enough tension from the bottom stopper to plant the hook in the bass's mouth? Obviously the answer is yes or else you wouldn't be sharing this but it just seems in my feeble brain that the hook would slide down the line instead of stick.
That said I'm looking forward to giving this a go. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Yes. And I was VERY skeptical at first, too. I was watching Gary Senft's
show on Amazon Fire TV when he was detailing his method and fishing
with it, catching some really nice AZ bass. Did some googling on it to
see if others used it and some had, everyone with success, that I recall.
So Gary recommends the black bobber stops because they're better with
the light line. I have use light line with long poles and used yellow and
red stoppers but they were way too loose (meant for thicker line), so they
would be a problem.
Probably like me, you guys just oughta try it as an experiment.
Another tip, I am using regular DS pencil weights and some teardrop, to
properly do this I have to open up the eye so I can tie a regular knot like
a uni, or palomar. Otherwise I fear the pinch would cause an issue with
the pressure of the hook and fish pushing on it.
J Francho reply :
I'm not sure I follow the logic here...though I'm sure it works fine.
You modify the clip, making it non-adjustable, so you can rig the hook to be adjustable? I mean you solved a problem that didn't exist. The dropper length is adjustable as long as the tag end. It doesn't make any difference if you shorten the dropper length by moving the sinker up the tag line. Fish don't care if there's extra line after the sinker.
Just seems like a fussy solution to a non problem.
Crestliner2008 reply :
Can someone give a link to these black, slimmer bobber stops?
Darren. reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 11:51 PM, J Francho said:I'm not sure I follow the logic here...though I'm sure it works fine.
You modify the clip, making it non-adjustable, so you can rig the hook to be adjustable? I mean you solved a problem that didn't exist. The dropper length is adjustable as long as the tag end. It doesn't make any difference if you shorten the dropper length by moving the sinker up the tag line. Fish don't care if there's extra line after the sinker.
Just seems like a fussy solution to a non problem.
Well, yeah, I suppose, John, but it's just something I've been
trying and it works pretty darn well. I disagree with "fussy
solution" though. Why? because I don't tie long leaders in
general, so I don't leave long tag ends.
So the way I drop shot, this is actually a good solution. A problem
that did exist is line twist. This does eliminate that. Already mentioned
other swivel hook solutions, but this is just an option, not the be-all
of dropshotting techniques....
As for the weight being tied on, so what. I mean really, it doesn't
matter if it is tied on or not. Clip makes it easier to lose in event
of a snag. What was done prior to that invention? You get snagged
in rocks with a TX rig, you probably lose the whole rig, right?
On 6/6/2017 at 12:00 AM, Crestliner2008 said:Can someone give a link to these black, slimmer bobber stops?
This is what I'm going to try. Not out a whole lot of $ if they don't
work out. Edit: $6.99 with Prime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBDTCW0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edited by Darren.Crestliner2008 reply :
Thanks Darren.
Darren. reply :
On 6/6/2017 at 12:13 AM, Crestliner2008 said:Thanks Darren.
I'm supposed to get my order by Wednesday. Not sure I'll be able
to test them then, but will at least get an idea of the quality, and
if they're as narrow as said.
Choporoz reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 9:56 PM, Darren. said:As well, when walking a shore, or in a kayak and you want to
stow the rod for another technique, or to move locations, you
can slide the hook down to the weight and not have the weight
swinging around getting hung up on your rod, or other rods.
Actually, this is not at all insignificant to me. I tend to leave a DS rod rigged for extended periods and it is unwieldy.
Add me to the list of charter members of the 'Move it too much club'....I do not have the patience for dead/very slow presentations....but I'm working on it.
J Francho reply :
Put a hairband on the butt grip of the rod, and slip the weight under that when you tore the rod. You can still do the twist the line over the blank a few times with this as well.
ib_of_the_damned reply :
On 6/6/2017 at 1:13 AM, J Francho said:Put a hairband on the butt grip of the rod, and slip the weight under that when you tore the rod. You can still do the twist the line over the blank a few times with this as well.
I used to use a small velcro strap to secure the rig to my rod or took the hook, and hooked it in the open end of the DS weight then hooked that into the closed loop hook keeper.
Then I started buying rods with the open ended hook keeper, then just slip the weight in the hook keeper and tighten the line. WAAAAAY easier!
J Francho reply :
I find when using a heavier weight, they slip out of the open end hanger. Been doing the hairband thing for over decade - works great.
Todd2 reply :
On 6/6/2017 at 1:52 AM, J Francho said:Been doing the hairband thing for over decade - works great.
Hairbands had their big run in the 80's... 
As far as line twists, I don't have any issues like I read about on here. Almost makes me think I'm doing something wrong. I am using 8-10 Original Stren. I know, using mono on a DS is heresy..but it works great for me.
WRB reply :
Eye Surrender makes a 5" X1" Velcro strap to hold heavier drop shot weights on the rod handle, little pricey but they work.
Tom
J Francho reply :
On 6/6/2017 at 2:16 AM, Todd2 said:I know, using mono on a DS is heresy..but it works great for me.
Not at all. Was "drop shotting" with mono on a Zebco 33 and 5-6 combo before the name was coined. It's we all learned how to fish up here, as kids. Most would use snelled hooks, but my grandfather said for kids, it was better to have the hook directly connected to the rod, with no slack. That way kids could feel a light bite better. The only real difference is running the tag end back through, which was something I used to laugh at my uncle for doing. Imaging that?
On 6/6/2017 at 2:16 AM, Todd2 said:Hairbands had their big run in the 80's...
It's funny, because I am also a musician. I started in punk bands, though. Blue mohawk. 
Darren. reply :
On 6/6/2017 at 1:41 AM, ib_of_the_damned said:I used to use a small velcro strap to secure the rig to my rod or took the hook, and hooked it in the open end of the DS weight then hooked that into the closed loop hook keeper.
Then I started buying rods with the open ended hook keeper, then just slip the weight in the hook keeper and tighten the line. WAAAAAY easier!
Used velcro, as well. Got to be a pain at times. For rods w/o an open
hook keeper I put on a Fuji hook keeper.
Darren. reply :
On 6/6/2017 at 12:13 AM, Crestliner2008 said:Thanks Darren.
Well they came in, here are some pix. 100 pack.
They are definitely thinner at the core than the other ones
I've used, so should come thru the guides well. I've got a
tangled drop shot my youngest was using yesterday to retie
and I'll add these on.
BassThumb reply :
Another tip for stowing a dropshot while not in use is to attach a small crankbait clip to the eyelet of the sinker. When you're finished using the bait, open up the clip and attach it to the hook-keeper on the rod.
This has been my routine this year and last, and I see no disadvantage to it. The sinker doesn't get lodged in the rocks any more than it would without the clip.
reerok reply :
On 6/8/2017 at 4:14 AM, Darren. said:
Well they came in, here are some pix. 100 pack.
They are definitely thinner at the core than the other ones
I've used, so should come thru the guides well. I've got a
tangled drop shot my youngest was using yesterday to retie
and I'll add these on.
How are they working? They look good and if you recommend them I'll pull the trigger on an order.
Thanks Darren.
Darren. reply :
On 6/13/2017 at 8:45 PM, reerok said:
How are they working? They look good and if you recommend them I'll pull the trigger on an order.
Thanks Darren.
So far so good! Only tested 'em once, was about 1 hour
using that rod setup. No fish on it, but a ton of snags
and the rig held up extremely well under those circumstance.
The grass was pretty thick in the areas I was fishing it and
I did bring in a lot of grass on both the hook and the weight.
A few times the grass was heavy enough to slide the hook
down to the weight, as it would do with a fish on.
Hard to beat for the price.
chadmack282 reply :
On 6/5/2017 at 12:00 AM, Darren. said:Agree with @RoLo, drop shot weights offer the advantage
of not losing the entire rig...
But they are not required. In fact, I've been testing out a
method from Gary Senft (AZ bass pro) in which he slides
a bobber stop on the line first, then his hook, then another
bobber stop (no knot).
Then at the bottom, you actually tie on a weight - this can be
any weight, honestly, but some are better than others at
coming through rocks, and so forth.
The bobber stops on either side allow "infinite" adjustment of
the distance from hook to weight.
My testing has been 100% successful thus far. Once the bass
takes the bait, set the hook as normal for DS (reel down and
lift, or sweep). The bait slides down to the weight and you bring
the bass in, unhook, reset hook, done. (I don't use barrel swivel).
i love the idea of bobber stops it gives your hook more freedom to move & rotate.
BUT it seem to me the hook could work its way down the line causing the bobber stopper to slide down the line while catching larger or/& fierce fighting fish.
is that not a problem or concern?
Darren. reply :
On 6/14/2017 at 10:03 AM, chadmack282 said:i love the idea of bobber stops it gives your hook more freedom to move & rotate.
BUT it seem to me the hook could work its way down the line causing the bobber stopper to slide down the line while catching larger or/& fierce fighting fish.
is that not a problem or concern?
Actually, according to Gary Senft, that's part of the allure
to this setup. I've caught many using this, and the hook
does slide down, but there's plenty of power to set the
hook in the position you set it.
NHBull reply :
On 6/14/2017 at 8:51 PM, Darren. said:
Actually, according to Gary Senft, that's part of the allure
to this setup. I've caught many using this, and the hook
does slide down, but there's plenty of power to set the
hook in the position you set it.
Darren, can you post a link or point me in the right direction for the bobberstops.
thanks
Darren. reply :
On 6/14/2017 at 9:16 PM, NHBull said:Darren, can you post a link or point me in the right direction for the bobberstops.
thanks
Here ya go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HBDTCW0/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
fishwizzard reply :
I ordered a pack of them today, going to give it a shot this weekend.
chadmack282 reply :
On 6/14/2017 at 8:51 PM, Darren. said:
Actually, according to Gary Senft, that's part of the allure
to this setup. I've caught many using this, and the hook
does slide down, but there's plenty of power to set the
hook in the position you set it.
so u tie a knot on your drop shot weight then?
i just reread your original post & see u do use a knot on DS weight, makes perfect sence to me now.
GrumpyOlPhartte reply :
One possibility for making length-adjustable weights for drop shot weights is to use a bullet or egg sinker with a rubber t-stop. After tying the hook to your line, slide a sinker onto the "tag" end, insert a t-stop, snug it up, and trim the t-drop. If you're worried that the sinker will slide off the line too easily, tie a figure-8 knot (or other bulky knot) at the end of the line.
I use this to employ steel sinkers for which I have substituted tungsten sinkers. They are probably less sensitive for feeling the bottom, but I do not have enough experience to appreciate the difference. The big plus for me is that the distance of the weight is easily adjustable and, in my limited experience, less likely to break the tag end while adjusting. Oh, yeah, and did I mention, "inexpensive"? And, of course, lead sinkers work too, where legal.
I realize the tag end may extend past the sinker as it is moved up the line, but I can live with that.
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