I suck at cranking. 2024
fourbizz reply :
I've known it for awhile, but after getting schooled with a crank this weekend, I need to get better with them.
I would like to know everyones favorites for the following conditions.
0-3 feet, clear water, heavy vegetation
3-6 feet, clear to muddy water, sparse to medium vegetation/wood
6-12 feet, clear to muddy, rocky
12-18 clear, rocky
also what are the deepest diving 2.5 -4" baits out there? currently fishing DD22's.
guest reply :
Hey Biz,
I admire someone with your hefty stringers admitting he needs to improve. Most people with your #'s would feel like they knew it all.
Crankin' be fun!!!!!
For shallow that manns baby 1 minus is the gold standard, but heavy vegetation NEVER lends itself to crankbaits.
3-6 feet with clear - balsa baby!! - muddy - big noisy and wide wobble
same for the others. The normans, LC BDS, RC series, etc. and my personal for off color or deeper water the wiggle or mag warts. don't forget to run em right into that wood. then pause, and hang on.
jb_adams reply :
I too suck at crankbaits. My new Avid rod is a 7ft crankbait rod. Says so on the rod. I can feel the crankbait wiggling but that's about it. I've set the hook before because I thought I had a small bass.
I usually hang them up on structure or something. I can never seem to get them to crank on the bottom. I've tried slow starts & fast starts. I feel like I'm just swimming it through the water and not retrieving it the right way. I've heard of the idea of letting run into a tree or stump and then let it pause. I can't seem to get that working right either. Maybe one day I'll get better at them.
As for favorites, I love the Normans in all series. Why? Because everyone I know that loves cranks loves the Normans. Plus they are made not too far from me so I try to keep the money at home! 
What are the appropriate colors for clear water? (I know natural but I'm questioning that now). Here's a reason. Most of the best crankbaits on my lake are brightly colored but the water is clear. Why is that?
CJ reply :
0-3 heavy veg:LC LV-7(vib)I haven't found a lipped crank that doesn't plow up grass,doesn't mean there ain't one
3-6 clear water:Bomber Flat A , Rapala Shad Rap
3-6 stained:BDS 3 , Bandit 200
6-12 Rapala DT14 , Bomber Fat Free Shad
12-18 Rapala DT16 , Bomber Fat Free Shad, LC D-20 Flat(it's the deepest diver I fish)
Red reply :
i dont have alot of crankin experience, but this year the LC Fat BDS2 in american shad has done me good in pretty heavy vegetation....actually i was looking at my log last night, and this bait has been my best producer for keeper fish....and good numbers too...i run it along the weedlines and above them, when it hits the weed tops...i stop and let it float up a bit then continue...strikes have come on the pause, and while just crankin along...some as soon as it hits the water and other right before i pick it up....great lure
Cliff
Branuss04 reply :
QuoteI suck at cranking.
Tell me something i don't know.... j/k buddy. Well a wise lanky white guy once told me, go with rapala DT series, you can't go wrong.... he was right, until I broke down and bought some LC's. Bought two, a DR, and a D20, and lost both. Liked them better than rapala's, just not the price. went with spring craw for 6-12 and american shad for deep. I took the D20 to the middle of the Applegate pond with the tube and knocked them dead in mid-august (Super clear water). I got it stuck around 16 feet down or so, and could see it, so i thought hey, it's 105 out, it's a $17 lure, why not try to get it.... boy was I wrong, After two uncesseful attempts of diving down, i decided that I didn't like the feeling of my head being crushed by the pressure. But I recommend the LC's, there on my wish list again.
Siebert Outdoors reply :
0-3 feet, clear water, heavy vegetation
manns minus series
3-6 feet, clear to muddy water, sparse to medium vegetation/wood
bandit 100-200
6-12 feet, clear to muddy, rocky
bandit 200-300. I prefer 300 in this type of water with 10lb line you want that bait bumping in the rocks. If the bill isnt getting chewed up your not fishing it right.
12-18 clear, rocky
bandit 300 to dd22 same theory as above
if you fish the deeper divers in shallow water vary the retrieve speed so the bait bumps the bottom and change your rod angle to cause the bait do stay shallower. Fish the crank slow enough to stay in contact with the bottom is how I've always had the best results. BTW line size will vary action and depth of the bait.
thats pretty much the majority of what I use. I'm gettin into some custom wood baits an love them.
WBFishing reply :
You are not alone. During my off time before the 08 seasons start, I am going to give myself a clinic on just jigs, jerkbaits, and improve my cranking.
0-3 ft -- mann's minus 1 or dt 6
3-6 ft -- rapala dt 6
6 to 12ft-- rapala dt 10
12 to 18-- rapala dt 16
I know that dt 6 seems like over kill in that shallow water, but i want mine bumping something where it is bottom or whatever. I try to keep all my colors in bluegill or some type shad-I live in South Central Alabama. I have caught some big spots on a dt 16 in bluegill. Good Luck.
Jimzee reply :
I tell ya what, lately I have been on a Rapala DT kick. I have been fishing the heck out of the DT 3 and the DT 7 in the silver and black color. I get some weeds on them but that is to be expected right? I guess the deepest I fish with cranks is the DT 16 series. I can't say I have been killing them on these but they have caught some of my biggest fish this year. I fish a few other types like the Lucky Crafts and Jackell but the fish seem to like the DT series a little better.
TournyFish001 reply :
I tear my friends up crank'n all the time, hope this helps ya;
0-3 Lucky Craft LVR Mini; these little lipless Lucky's are kinda hard to find but a great bait for shallows
4-6 Speed Trap 1/4oz
7-12 Daiwa thin lip the deep diver one, says 5+ feet but I can get 8+ easy with it
12+ I like the Luhr Jensen baby hotlips 1/4oz
The_Natural reply :
You need a lot of cranks to confidently cover those areas, and some categories listed require drastically different baits (in my experience) based on water temp/season. Water temp and season have the most impact on how I want my bait to behave. I'm mainly listing mainstream baits, but in the place of the wobblers, I may have a WEC or Brians B tied on.
0-3ft clear; heavy vegetation (I'm assuming warmer water here...they won't be there in clear water when it's cold)- cb50 in 'ghost minnow green' (or any natural 'ghost' shade unless it's cloudy). BDS 1 in ghost minnow/american shad, or rootbeer/chartreuse shad depending on sunshine or cloud cover. The new minus 1 elite series offers a 'ghost minnow' and baby bass pattern that I own and would throw also. It just needs to come right over the top of the grass without being too intrusive.
0-3ft stained; early spring cool/cold water- warm sunny days can lead to bass migrating surprisingly shallow on riprap and rocky points...a tight wiggling cb100 or speed trap will score bites. Shad or craw colors will be fine...
0-3ft stained; heavy cover (late/post spawn through fall)- BDS 1 and 2, B1 and B2, and (enter your favorite fat wobbler here). Both the BDS 1 and 2 or the B1 and B2 run about 3ft on 15lb test (what I recommend in this scenario). My favorite BDS colors are carmel apple and peacock, while the traditional chartreuse/black back or green apple work well for the Bagleys (any bluegill/perch imitator).
3-6ft clear/cooler water- who am I kidding...I'm throwing a flashminnow . I will have a moonsault cb100 in pearl ayu or chartreuse shad tied on as well (if there is cloud cover), or the same bait in ghost minnow or american shad if it is sunny.
3-6ft stained/cooler water- moonsault cb100, speed trap, Berkley Frenzy shallow diver...shad/craw...
3-6ft stained/late spawn through post spawn- RC 1.5 and 2.5, BDS 1 and 2 ( I tend to throw the RC when the water temps are in the middle 60's to 70, and the BDS after that). RC colors; copper perch and purple perch; BDS in carmel apple or peacock. You can substitute the B2 for the BDS 2 in the late spawn or postspawn.
3-6ft clear/late through post spawn- RC 1.5/2.5 in bull bream or copper perch; BDS 1 and 2 in ghost minnow/american shad or chartreuse shad/rootbeer depending on cloud cover. The Zoom sweet pea in baby bass really excels here...the fry are around, and the bass know it. The sweet pea is little, unassuming, and retrieved right just says 'eat me'...'I've lost my adult male guardian' .
6-12ft stained/cold or cool water- deep little N or Rapala DT flat below 55...Berkley Frenzy medium diver, moonsault cb200/250, or anything that is loud with a tight wiggle seems to work well between 55 and 60. Below 55...shad patterns. Above that...shad, craw, or firetiger all have their place.
6-12ft clear/cold or cool water- Jerkbait time! Seriously though, I will have a wiggle wart tied on for those clear, rocky lakes (craw patter of course). A moonsault isn't a bad idea (Moonsaults are basically robust rattletraps with diving lips). Shad or craw colors would be my game...
6-12ft; early spring/cool stained water- Moonsault cb200 and 250, Berkley Frenzy medium diver, and the DT flat all in shad patterns (a lot will swear on craw patterns, and I can't argue against this; however, I generally stick to shad).
12-18ft; clear and cold- wiggle wart walked with light line (craw pattern)
12-18ft; clear and summertime- dd22 pretty much rules, unless you have a Tapp or other similar bait. Shad or Table rock shad.
12-18ft; stained and cold- deep little n or dd22, but I'm usually throwing a deep suspending jerkbait or LV500max
12-18ft; stianed and warm- dd22 in any flavor.
burleytog reply :
3/4 Hot Lips are the deepest divers I've used. When a DD22 or Fat Free Shad won't get there, a Hot Lips will.
As for the Rapala cranks (as is with all cranks), subtract 2-3'. The DT16 might get to 16' with 4 lb. test. Good crank nonetheless, but not a 16' diver.
roadwarrior reply :
Shallow: Mann's -1, Bomber Square A, Norman Fat Boy.
3-6': Bagley BII
6-15': Fat Free Shad, Yo-Zuri Vibe
15'+: DD22, Mann's Stretch 15+, 20+. 25+
cart7t reply :
0-3ft - Floating Rat-L-Trap
3-8ft - I have a variety of crankers, Some rebel wee R's, Bandits, Normans and Bagleys.
6-12ft - Deep Little N, Original Wiggle Wart
12 + - I've got some fat free shads and DD22's.
Catt reply :
Add my name to the list of Sucks at Crankin :
And after reading all these variables and choices y'all talk about jigs being hard to learn
What I hate the most is if I even think about throwing a Crank I'm hung up, how y'all avoid getting hung?
jwo1124 reply :
I wouldn;t recommend using a crankbait near heavy vegetation. I'd say they're ok around wood and rocks, but it's a pain getting weeds and other greens out of treble hooks. Especially when they wrap around the lip and get tangled in the tie ring.
I just started cranking a lot this year. I have had luck with Strike King Pro Model cranks which come in shallow 4 ft., medium 8ft., and deep 12 ft. They have good action and aren;t that expensive. I am a gid fan of rapala's. Between their minnows (husky jerks, original floater, x-rap, and their new twitchin rap, : http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?id=0036966120820a&navCount=1&podId=0036966&parentId=cat600383&masterpathid=&navAction=jump&cmCat=MainCatcat20166-cat600383&catalogCode=2UG&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat600383&hasJS=true
then their wide array of crankbaits and their skitter pop and skitter walk, you have the majority of the water column covered. Their deep tail dancer will go to 25-30 ft. depending on what size model you use. I'm not sure if this is on the cast or trolled...but I'm sure with the huge lip on these babies, on a nice long cast you could get it down there.
I only have two beefs with Rapala: 1.) Their Lures are expensive averaging about 6-7 dollars. Not that 6.50 is a lot of money, but 6.50 x 20 lures...and you're looking at about $250, which is a lotta scratch to a college kid. And thats not a lot of lures when you take into considertion getting the same lure in a couple different color patterns. 2.) They give approx. diving depths like 5-11 feet. They dont list 5' cast 11' trolled so it leaves some gray area. I haven't bumped bottom until getting close to shore with the minnow rap which is listed as 5-11, so I'm guessing that the 11' is a trolling depth. Which doesn;t really play a huge roll in bass fishing cuz no one trolls for bass...
So to answer you're question, spend sometime looking over some tackle outfitter's websites, check out diving depths and get some Rapala's that fit your fishing needs.
BassHunter69 reply :
QuoteAdd my name to the list of Sucks at Crankin :And after reading all these variables and choices y'all talk about jigs being hard to learn
What I hate the most is if I even think about throwing a Crank I'm hung up, how y'all avoid getting hung?
catt,
when you hit that cover stop the retrevie let the crank raise then start retevie again many times ive had bass bang on that pause especially right on brushpiles i'd go with a timber tiger its built just for that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
jb_adams reply :
What colors?
Before someone says natural or shad & bluegill colors for clear and brighter colors for stainded and muddy.....
I ask my question again. Why is it that some bright colors work well in clear water? I know specifically a yellow with baby-blue backed Rapala works well in clear water. Or a yellow with purple back Norman D14 or Thin-N works.
Why is this? Is it because it's something different the fish don't normally see? The old theory is that fake colors will get ignored in clear water but these bright colors work half the time.
TournyFish001 reply :
I don't know about others but I don't think color is a huge deal when crank'n- don't get me wrong I tend to stick to the rule of certain colors to certain water clarity and sunny or cloudy ect... This does not change my choice when using my favorite colors tho- I mainly try and match what lives in the water- where I fish there are a lot of Crappie, Yellow Perch and of course crawdads- so anything remotely close to those I throw no matter what the water clarity or weather conditions are. For Crappie I throw a lot of Chartruse shad and for perch a lot of yellow cranks- up here it seems that red craw patterns work well too.
.ghoti. reply :
fourbiz, if you haven't already, take a look at the post Chris put up entitled Crank'n. Everything you need to get started is right there.
I'll add one thing. Use a good graphite rod. I know a lot of people say that graphite is not the right choice for cranking; fiberglass is what you're "supposed" to use. Well, I don't buy it. A good graphite rod will transmit the vibrations a lot better. And, a lot of crankin is all about the feel. I've never used a glass rod that came close the the level of feel that graphite delivers. Maybe there are some out now that do this. I don't know; I haven't bought one, and I'm not likely to do so, anytime soon.
An erratic path through the water is the other key. Crank it, pause it, rip it, twitch it; do anything put just wind it in. Move your rod tip up and down, side to side, make the bait change directions. Deflecting off something is the best. That's where the feel factor comes into play. You need to know what the bait feels like. With a good sensitive rod and a little practice, you'll soon know what's going on at the end of your line.
Cheers,
GK
jb_adams reply :
QuoteAn erratic path through the water is the other key. Crank it, pause it, rip it, twitch it; do anything put just wind it in. Move your rod tip up and down, side to side, make the bait change directions. Deflecting off something is the best. That's where the feel factor comes into play. You need to know what the bait feels like. With a good sensitive rod and a little practice, you'll soon know what's going on at the end of your line.Cheers,
GK
There's a straight answer I've been looking for as well. I've heard that you can't just throw it and reel it in. I never knew if I was crazy for twithing, jerking, and such. I feel like I'm making the thing break dance instead of fishing....(if anyone still remembers breakdancing).
As far as colors, Bill Dance says..."Why would your throw a bait that looks just like the other thousands of shad in the lake? Throw something that looks a little different but something the fish would want. Make it stand out instead of blending in perfectly". I think this argument has been debated a lot and will continue to be debated. I was just curious if everyone else feels natural in clear is the best way.
I'm starting to agree with Bill Dance based on my own experience. Clost to natural but slightly different and slightly brighter yet still believable that it's real.
TournyFish001 reply :
I think retrieve is the most important aspect of cranking- as far as color goes that is a confidence thing with some added influence on local forage.
BassHunter69 reply :
QuoteQuoteAn erratic path through the water is the other key. Crank it, pause it, rip it, twitch it; do anything put just wind it in. Move your rod tip up and down, side to side, make the bait change directions. Deflecting off something is the best. That's where the feel factor comes into play. You need to know what the bait feels like. With a good sensitive rod and a little practice, you'll soon know what's going on at the end of your line.Cheers,
GK
There's a straight answer I've been looking for as well. I've heard that you can't just throw it and reel it in. I never knew if I was crazy for twithing, jerking, and such. I feel like I'm making the thing break dance instead of fishing....(if anyone still remembers breakdancing).
As far as colors, Bill Dance says..."Why would your throw a bait that looks just like the other thousands of shad in the lake? Throw something that looks a little different but something the fish would want. Make it stand out instead of blending in perfectly". I think this argument has been debated a lot and will continue to be debated. I was just curious if everyone else feels natural in clear is the best way.
I'm starting to agree with Bill Dance based on my own experience. Clost to natural but slightly different and slightly brighter yet still believable that it's real.
ive found that to help when nothing else works
roadwarrior reply :
When you are on or near structure and/or cover, sometimes you can just chunk and wind. My PB was caught on a Fat Boy with a straight, steady, parallel retrieve along a drop. This area could also be described as "open water over structure." Bass were staging in the deeper water picking off bluegill that ventured a little to far from the bank. The strike was a solid feeding bite, violent and aggressive.
jb_adams reply :
So basically just throw something and eventually......you'll get lucky!
BassHunter69 reply :
QuoteSo basically just throw something and eventually......you'll get lucky!
i'm always getting lucky
islandbass reply :
Man, I am the opposite of you. I started out bass fishing with cranks and didn't throw a soft plastic until nearly my second season in fishing. I am very comfortable with cranks but this year I forced myself to expand into soft plastics. Learning the drop shot has been a great plus and I'm off to more soft plastics like t-rigs. As a matter if fact, I've only thrown a cb twice this season and I guess I still have my touch. Caught a nice 4 lber in a 30 minute outing about 3 weeks ago. ;D
The cb recs that have been given are pretty much what I use.
jb_adams reply :
Well thanks to this thread, I picked up a few more crankbaits to add to my collection. Thanks baitmonkey....you never let me down! :
So I bought more Norman "Thin Little N" cranks in "root bear" and a "smoke ghost". Also picked up a Worden's Timber Tiger DC-16 in "olive black lake craw". That thing is just mean looking! It has deflectors on the bill so it's supposed to be a great crankait for timber and rocks. It supposedly even backs up when it hits something. I read a few online reviews on it and they say it's an awesome crankbait and very versatile.
I'll give it a try this Sat. on a new lake. Going scouting for a new place to fish.
Thanks again guys for all the posts here. This has given me a newfound confidance in my crankbait collection and inspired me to start crankin'.
BassHunter69 reply :
QuoteWell thanks to this thread, I picked up a few more crankbaits to add to my collection. Thanks baitmonkey....you never let me down! :So I bought more Norman "Thin Little N" cranks in "root bear" and a "smoke ghost". Also picked up a Worden's Timber Tiger DC-16 in "olive black lake craw". That thing is just mean looking! It has deflectors on the bill so it's supposed to be a great crankait for timber and rocks. It supposedly even backs up when it hits something. I read a few online reviews on it and they say it's an awesome crankbait and very versatile.
I'll give it a try this Sat. on a new lake. Going scouting for a new place to fish.
Thanks again guys for all the posts here. This has given me a newfound confidance in my crankbait collection and inspired me to start crankin'.
the timber tiger dc-16 is a great bait thats one of them ive been looking for myself since its great in timber,brushpiles,rocks etc.
Stringjam reply :
QuoteI've known it for awhile, but after getting schooled with a crank this weekend, I need to get better with them.I would like to know everyones favorites for the following conditions.
6-12 feet, clear to muddy, rocky
12-18 clear, rocky
also what are the deepest diving 2.5 -4" baits out there? currently fishing DD22's.
12-18: Poe's Comp Cedars 4400 - - still my alltime favorite deep crank, and I've fished just about every one I can get my hands on.
As far as the deepest - - Poe's Comp Cedars 4500LR......there are a few others that will get as deep (3/4 Hot Lips, Mann's 30+), but NONE of them have caught as many fish for me as this one. It is also the easiest to get down there, with the least amount of strain - - VERY important if you're going to throw one all day. It is a true 20'+ diver.
dink reply :
Good post Fourbizz.
I too am crank-challenged but I am learning slowly.
I like 'em lipless for shallow grass clear to stained. My personal faves are the old Spot "one-knockers". I have six of these in various colors that have been like gold for me. Since I don't throw cranks much, I can't offer too much in the way of advice. The Bomber Fat A and Flat A have both been productive in the shallow to mid depths and Poes 400s and Bagley DB3s for deeper stuff.
The_Natural reply :
The erratic, rip and slow down...rip then slow down- works for me quite a bit. If you have ever been crappie fishing and let a minnow go...that is how they behave. A fish will chase them for a second as the minnow darts forward, and then it will slow down for a second after it thinks it has eluded the predator. However, in the Summertime, a big wobbler such as a B2 reeled in at a slow and steady pace can work equally well, because big bass tend to be lazy, and they think it is easy to pace and eat a big, slow shad rather than one darting around. You just have to experiment...
Stringjam reply :
QuoteThe erratic, rip and slow down...rip then slow down- works for me quite a bit. If you have ever been crappie fishing and let a minnow go...that is how they behave. A fish will chase them for a second as the minnow darts forward, and then it will slow down for a second after it thinks it has eluded the predator. However, in the Summertime, a big wobbler such as a B2 reeled in at a slow and steady pace can work equally well, because big bass tend to be lazy, and they think it is easy to pace and eat a big, slow shad rather than one darting around. You just have to experiment...
I agree, Natural.....sometimes erratic is not the way to go. If you ever watch David Fritts deep cranking in the summer, you NEVER see him impart any jerky rod action to the lure, only variations of retrieve speed using the reel. He's a pretty good crankbait fisherman from what I hear...
jiangtao reply :
I started cranking this year and I'll have to say that from my own experience the Bomber Fat A in the brown craw pattern has put more fish in the boat than any other. Having said that.... they don't make 'em like they used to. I started out using the original color from about 20+ years ago, but I guess the turds that be decided to change the color to a lighter one and I have yet to land anything on them. The older ones were darker and that was my go to in murky conditions. I also should add that for the money you can't beat Norman lures. I am an avid Rapala fan, but I have yet to land anything on a shad rap, but the original floaters are the way to go! The original floaters have landed me Skipjack Herring, Hybrid Stripe, LM Bass, Rainbow Trout, Crappie, White Bass, Yellow Bass, Spotted Bass, big Bream, and Chain Pikeral. If anyone from Bomber is reading this PLEASE make the brown craw like you used to!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
dodgeguy reply :
i crank rocks a lot and you will get hung sometimes.do not pull harder and jam the lure in more.bring your boat around behind the bait and pull it out.sometimes if you are using cranks that float up just let the line go slack and they will float up.a good sensitive graphite rod is a must so you can feel the bait and let it climb up and over the rocks.i generally crank slow and just play touchy feely with the rocks.it usually gets interupted by a fish.
The_Natural reply :
QuoteQuoteThe erratic, rip and slow down...rip then slow down- works for me quite a bit. If you have ever been crappie fishing and let a minnow go...that is how they behave. A fish will chase them for a second as the minnow darts forward, and then it will slow down for a second after it thinks it has eluded the predator. However, in the Summertime, a big wobbler such as a B2 reeled in at a slow and steady pace can work equally well, because big bass tend to be lazy, and they think it is easy to pace and eat a big, slow shad rather than one darting around. You just have to experiment...I agree, Natural.....sometimes erratic is not the way to go. If you ever watch David Fritts deep cranking in the summer, you NEVER see him impart any jerky rod action to the lure, only variations of retrieve speed using the reel. He's a pretty good crankbait fisherman from what I hear...
I say big bass can be lazy, but I guess it relates to people as well. I was sitting on the couch last night, and would have loved some Sonic or something, but I didn't want to go pick it up. I just ended up drinking more beer...that worked
BassHunter69 reply :
QuoteQuoteQuoteThe erratic, rip and slow down...rip then slow down- works for me quite a bit. If you have ever been crappie fishing and let a minnow go...that is how they behave. A fish will chase them for a second as the minnow darts forward, and then it will slow down for a second after it thinks it has eluded the predator. However, in the Summertime, a big wobbler such as a B2 reeled in at a slow and steady pace can work equally well, because big bass tend to be lazy, and they think it is easy to pace and eat a big, slow shad rather than one darting around. You just have to experiment...I agree, Natural.....sometimes erratic is not the way to go. If you ever watch David Fritts deep cranking in the summer, you NEVER see him impart any jerky rod action to the lure, only variations of retrieve speed using the reel. He's a pretty good crankbait fisherman from what I hear...
I say big bass can be lazy, but I guess it relates to people as well. I was sitting on the couch last night, and would have loved some Sonic or something, but I didn't want to go pick it up. I just ended up drinking more beer...that worked
now thats a decent fishermen on his day off ;D ;D
jb_adams reply :
I took my 6yr. old son out for perch jerking this afternoon and we were on our way out of this cove. It's got deep water on the main cove and tree stumps etc. I've seen fish on the graph before in this area so I thought it would be a good spot to try out the new cranks.
I tied one on today to give it a try. It's a Norman DD14 in my new favorite color...."rootbeer". I threw it a few times trying to adjust the tension knob on my baitcaster and I noticed the bait was running hard right. So I was adjusting the crank to correct this before I got to the mouth of the cove I was coming out of. Before I even got to the mouth, a bass just nailed a straight cast to the bank...nothing special retrieve. Talk about getting someone interested in crankbaits! ;D My third cast with this new bait and I almost landed a nice sized tournament bass. I was so geeked out over the ordeal after catching hand sized perch all day that I tried to "Bill Dance" the bass in the boat and lost him. He would have gone 18 inches or better easy. He was a really niced sized bass for this lake.
SO.....needless to say, I started combing that area pretty hard. My only problem now is getting hooked up. I could feel nips and nibbles and I'd prematurely set the hook. I have to say, I love the new "rootbeer" color for clear water. It's pretty natural looking and within 10 mins. I almost landed 2 tournament keepers. The second one got off too. Gotta learn to drop the rod tip and let it run a little to keep from jumping.
So.....I'll be using cranks pretty heavy now this fall. All it took was one lucky cast and now the baitmonkey is whispering to me.
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