With braids getting smaller and fish getting bigger, this problem is more prevalent than ever. Too many times when using braid and setting the hook, the line pulls out of the small gap between eye and hook shank. Have lost many fish because of this not to mention the rig which nowadays if using top of the line products like Tungsten weights etc.,can be a headache and expensive to say the least. Fished for 45 yrs and know every knot in the book and and nothing short of glue will keep the knot from sometimes sliding into the gap when a fish has the bait jumbled up in his mouth. Also the crimping method leaves a small divot in the end next to the gap and unless you ck it often, it will hold the knot in the divot right next to the gap. I now have to crimp each of my hooks individually prior to use.
Is there anyone else who have noticed this, or am I just too picky?
If they could just close the gap
www.ragetail.com
Agreed 100% since I mostly use braid.
I take a piece of heavy mono or fluoro and tie a knot on first,then cut it off to "block" the gap. Most times though I just tie the braid on 2 or even 3 times then cut the line at the knot and slide the pieces over and dont have any problems after doing that.
Most times if I cut a hook off to fish something else or change sizes I just leave the knot on the hook then its ready next time I tie it on.
There is absolutely nothing worse than laying back on a pig and hearing that "pop"!!!!
Even still though...why cant the makers come up with a design with no gap at the line tie :-?
I don't fish braid much, however try tying a piece of mono with just a standard over hand knot on that side of your braid so that the mono prevents the braid from slipping through, as the mono will not.
Hope this helps my friend.
Take care,
Steve
I was a little too late. ;D
The following is a link to a hook (Reaction Innovations BMF Flippin' Hook) that has the eye welded closed for this very reason:
http://www.***.com/descpageRIHOOKS-RIH.html
Take care,
Steve
QuoteI don't fish braid much, however try tying a piece of mono with just a standard over hand knot on that side of your braid so that the mono prevents the braid from slipping through, as the mono will not.Hope this helps my friend.
Take care,
Steve
Thats a good idea Steve, using the mono as a keeper. Still don't like the thought of having to do that though.
On the Reaction Inno hook, would be nice if it was a worm style hook withe J offset below the eye. If it was, I would own a bunch of'em.
www.ragetail.com
QuoteAgreed 100% since I mostly use braid.I take a piece of heavy mono or fluoro and tie a knot on first,then cut it off to "block" the gap. Most times though I just tie the braid on 2 or even 3 times then cut the line at the knot and slide the pieces over and dont have any problems after doing that.
Most times if I cut a hook off to fish something else or change sizes I just leave the knot on the hook then its ready next time I tie it on.
There is absolutely nothing worse than laying back on a pig and hearing that "pop"!!!!
Even still though...why cant the makers come up with a design with no gap at the line tie :-?
Hey Finatic, sounds like tying a few extra knots ahead is gonna be the answer. Thanks
www.ragetail.com
QuoteI was a little too late. ;DThe following is a link to a hook (Reaction Innovations BMF Flippin' Hook) that has the eye welded closed for this very reason:
http://www.***.com/descpageRIHOOKS-RIH.html
Take care,
Steve
Those are some really good hooks. Also, you can buy hooks for braided line
I use a double palomar. The knot is pretty fat. I have not really had an issue with this.
QuoteI use a double palomar. The knot is pretty fat. I have not really had an issue with this.
This is the knot that I use with braid with best results and use Tungsten and normally 3/8 or better. Have had it beat on the double palomar and frey it badly pretty quick. Thanks
www.ragetail.com
Are you guys having this problem with Owner and Gamigatsu? I use Owners almost exclusively and haven't had that problem with suffix braid.
I don't get to fish but once a week though.
Snell the line on the hook with a uni-knot especially when using a heavy tungsten weight. That way the sinker can't come in contact with the knot and the knot is not in the hook eye so it can't slip out. Put the line through the hook eye from the point side when starting the knot.
just close the gap with pliers
I've never had the problem much - but wouldn't a drop of super-glue on the gap solve the problem?
Stringjam, no, super glue is too thin to fill the gap and it's too brittle when set up to offer any resistance to the line slipping thru. Even using super glue on the knot to keep it from working it's way around to the gap won't last but a couple of casts since working the lure and weight will break it loose. Without snelling, filling the gap with another knot before the final tying-on works the best.
tCR, the gap cannot be closed with pliers since there is really no gap, it's the small contact area of the wire end to the shaft that is the problem. The wire has a blunt end and that is resting against a curved surface which is the round wire the hook is made of.
Why don't you all fish the superline hooks by Gamakatsu????? Aren't they welded shut as well? Theyare meant for braid and what not....
QuoteWhy don't you all fish the superline hooks by Gamakatsu????? Aren't they welded shut as well? Theyare meant for braid and what not....
Superline is a darn good hook but....not welded shut. :-/
MattStrykul, I just checked all my Gammy Superline hooks under magnification and none are welded. The wire is a heavier guage than the non-superline hooks
Might take a little time but couldn't a guy solder the gap shut? Or would heating up the hook a little compromise the strength? Couldn't be any worse than pouring melted lead around a hook. Heck maybe I just thought of another bait to sell......custom hooks...... ;D ;D ;D ;D
Harshman
The Gammy superline hooks are absolutely perfect, nothing more needed.
Go with it Harshman,
www.ragetail.com
I agree and use the Gammy superline hook now and it is definitely better than the others but it too has failed at the gap, just not as often. Wayne P's idea about snelling is good, cause that would alleviate the problem as well. thanks
www.ragetail.com
never had the problem
I wouldn't put the jaws of pliers anywhere my knot or line for that matter, your begging for abrasion that way
QuoteI wouldn't put the jaws of pliers anywhere my knot or line for that matter, your begging for abrasion that way
You are on the money Muddy, been there done that and lost my T-shirt along with the fish. Tried vice press and aluminum inserts to avoid abrasion with better results. Lot of work though. Wow, we go to great lengths just to hold those big slimy critters, "Aint They Beautiful"?
Steve
www.ragetail.com
Oddly enough, I can't say that I remember that happening to me.
I would imagine that something else had to take place first,
to allow the hook to pivot around and expose the wire-slot.
Not for nothing, I've never had a uni-knot slip on me, but I've heard others with that complaint.
I always suggest that they pre-tighten the uni-knot before the final tightening and it will NEVER slip.
But now you've got me wondering; is it possible that their knot slipped through the wire-slot in the eyelet?
Things that make you go, Hmmmm
Roger
THANK GOD! i thought i was crazy. i lost 4 fish the other day at a pond and almost all were on the hookset. i was using power pro 50# with palomar knot. i thought i was tying the knot wrong but on the last fish i lost i could see the knot still tied but no hook!
We are paying for high end products and recieving junk.
All the solutions are enabling hook companys to not invest in there proccess.
Notice over and over Gammi's and Owners with gap problems take a look at your hooks the ones that are a problem send them to the company and demand good products.
Garnet
A real easy solution is to use a Durlock snap. The snap will not pull though the gap of the eye..
QuoteWe are paying for high end products and recieving junk. All the solutions are enabling hook companys to not invest in there proccess.Garnet
That reminds me of the jig-makers who are too cheap to bust the paint out of the eyelet.
They just dip the jigs in paint, then package them after they're dry.
They actually benefit from this shoddy practice by selling us "Eye Poppers" to finish THEIR job
Roger
QuoteNotice over and over Gammi's and Owners with gap problems...
I know what you mean but, I guess it's a matter of perspective. I've been using those same "problem" Owner hooks since the early 80's... with no problems. They were designed before today's superlines were out and popular. I still use mono and Owner is still my hook of choice.
I do see your point with gammy, they advertise "superline" hooks so they ought to be made for it.
QuoteTHANK GOD! i thought i was crazy. i lost 4 fish the other day at a pond and almost all were on the hookset. i was using power pro 50# with palomar knot. i thought i was tying the knot wrong but on the last fish i lost i could see the knot still tied but no hook!
I used power pro 50 as well and had the problem, not the lines fault. so I changed to a larger dia to avoid it. Didn't help that much. Snelling the hook seems to be the best answer.
www.ragetail.com
QuoteThat reminds me of the jig-makers who are too cheap to bust the paint out of the eyelet.They just dip the jigs in paint, then package them after they're dry.
They actually benefit from this shoddy practice by selling us "Eye Poppers" to finish THEIR job
Roger
I know a certain bait maker that takes the time to clean out every jig eye that I they make.......no jig buster needed here
Harshman
That's another pet peeve, after chipping the paint in the eye of the jig, it leaves small sharp paint edges that are instant stress points for your line. I remove all of the paint from the eye area to avoid this type of problem as well. Are we being too picky?
www.ragetail.com
the knot slipping through the opening in the hook eye has been a real pain at times, especially when I'm using 10 lb Power Pro. What I've done is just take a needle nose pliers and is squeeze the eye closed. Seems to work on the lighter hooks just fine. Never really had that problem with 30 and up lb test Braid. Although, I've worried about it from time to time.
Yeah Joel, and the bigger the hook it seems the bigger the gap. but I've found that on these larger hooks, so much pressure is required to crimp with pliers that it will often leave a sharp abrasion on the hook, so I try to avoid that as well. Thanks just the same
www.ragetail.com
Quotenever had the problem
x2
lol funny you mention the "superline" design hooks because that was just what i was using only i was using mustad. the package had the "made for superline" garb on it. im a huge owner fan myself but found these "superline ewg" hooks on clearance at wally world for $1 a pack. they were hard to pass up!
QuoteQuoteNotice over and over Gammi's and Owners with gap problems...I know what you mean but, I guess it's a matter of perspective. I've been using those same "problem" Owner hooks since the early 80's... with no problems. They were designed before today's superlines were out and popular. I still use mono and Owner is still my hook of choice.
I do see your point with gammy, they advertise "superline" hooks so they ought to be made for it.
I have been fishing a lot of years. I use Eagle Claw hooks most of the time. Have not had that problem with these hooks. In fact have never had a problem with Eagle Claw hooks at all.
The best part is they are made in America
Forgot to mention I use mono, FC but mostly Power Pro. From UL to heavy Surf.