rod selection for kayak 2024
thinkingredneck reply :
I fish from a kayak. That limits me to 2 rods, ideally, as that is how many rod holders I have behind me. To carry more gets awkward, and anything that sticks out in front of me, like a rod lying down or in a front rod holder, can cause a wrapped line and lost fish. Don't ask how I know this. I read the "rod selection, the basics" thread and it helped a lot in clarifying my thoughts concerning rod selection. I mostly fish a relatively shallow, heavily stained to muddy reservoir with a lot of pads, wood and other vegetation. Currently, my primary rod is a mh bait caster fast rod with 65lb test braid and 15 lb yozuri hybrid leader--when I use a leader. I also have a medium baitcaster that I have 12lb fluro on and a medium spinning rod with 25 lb braid plus leader. I use the mh rod for single hook baits and toads. I am comfortable with worm fishing, but don't have a lot of knowledge or confidence in "reaction" baits, other than toads. If I were limited to one of the other rods for treble hook lures, and or soft swimbaits, which rod would you suggest? I appreciate any advice.
Scrapiron reply :
I posed this similar question a couple of months ago (3 rods instead of 2 on a kayak). I would take the spinning rod but spool it with 10# braid. That would give you a larger variance of weights/lures to use. It also, depending on whether you use a RH or LH baitcaster, would allow you to switch reeling hands- which I find beneficial during a long day on the water.
Delaware Valley Tackle reply :
I have a setup for every conceivable presentation in bass fishing. I never take them all with me on an outing, rather I anticipate conditions, season, location etc and take the two I'll fish that day. If I'm unsure I have one or two extra in the vehicle so I can swap out.
Caliyak reply :
I might be different than most. I only take 3 rods; heavy, MH and spinning rod. no matter what lure I decide to use, I will tie it on to one of the three. I've read and done enough kayak fishing to know that one rod can handle multiple techniques.
For example; my heavy can handle swimbaits, frogging, t-rig creatures for flipping/pitching and any heavy lure. My MH does almost everything else including buzz, t-rig worm, t-rig for cover, crank baits and so on. Spinning does senkos, small swimbaits, poppers and so on. Is it perfect? nope. But, I catch fish and fish don't care about our rods, they want to eat.
3crows reply :
Uh, hmmm, uh, your oldest and most expendable one(s).
What goes up must come down and one goes out on a kayak might not come back in on a kayak.
Frenchman83 reply :
I will generally carry 3 of the following MH casting, M casting, M spinning, and ML spinning. Depending on line type for the casting I can get multiple presentations out of 1 rod.
Boomstick reply :
I think my setup would work well for you. #1) MH/F casting, either with 30# or 40# braid (although I have 50# on mine currently) or 15-17lb mono. #2) M/F spinning, 20# braid to avoid line twist and add a 8lb fluro leader as necessary. I can throw smaller baits and crankbaits on the spinning rod as well as using it for finesse techniques. Ideally, I'd add a casting rod for cranking, but on a budget it works.
Also find something that is cheap, in the event you should lose it.
thinkingredneck reply :
Thanks, I have been using my mh baitcaster for worms, jigs, and frogs. My spinner for treble hooks and weightless worms/ finesse, but sometimes I like the medium BC rod with mono or fluro for cranks, spinners and weightless plastics. I think I just like BC rods better as I have more accuracy with them.
the reel ess reply :
On 8/17/2017 at 2:11 AM, thinkingredneck said:I fish from a kayak. That limits me to 2 rods, ideally, as that is how many rod holders I have behind me. To carry more gets awkward, and anything that sticks out in front of me, like a rod lying down or in a front rod holder, can cause a wrapped line and lost fish. Don't ask how I know this. I read the "rod selection, the basics" thread and it helped a lot in clarifying my thoughts concerning rod selection. I mostly fish a relatively shallow, heavily stained to muddy reservoir with a lot of pads, wood and other vegetation. Currently, my primary rod is a mh bait caster fast rod with 65lb test braid and 15 lb yozuri hybrid leader--when I use a leader. I also have a medium baitcaster that I have 12lb fluro on and a medium spinning rod with 25 lb braid plus leader. I use the mh rod for single hook baits and toads. I am comfortable with worm fishing, but don't have a lot of knowledge or confidence in "reaction" baits, other than toads. If I were limited to one of the other rods for treble hook lures, and or soft swimbaits, which rod would you suggest? I appreciate any advice.
I have a crate that I zip-tied some more rod holders in that I carry in the rear well. My kayak has bungee cord over the rear well so I hold it down with those. I can now carry up to 7 rods. I usually carry at least 6 for bass. I'll sometimes throw in a light spin combo for places with very small bass or good panfish.
If there's a dock nearby I'll leave the combos I might not use on the dock. If I need them I'll go get them.
Subaqua Adinterim reply :
On 8/17/2017 at 7:56 AM, 3crows said:What goes up must come down and one goes out on a kayak might not come back in on a kayak.
On 8/17/2017 at 11:42 AM, Boomstick said:Also find something that is cheap, in the event you should lose it.
Just take about 6-8" of copper water pipe insulation, (the small diameter grey stuff that comes in 6' lengths at home improvement stores) and place it above the grip in front of your reel on your spinning rod or on the split grip part of your casting rod behind the reel. This is a low cost way to fish without worrying about losing your gear.
J Francho reply :
On 8/17/2017 at 11:42 AM, Boomstick said:Also find something that is cheap, in the event you should lose it.
Actually, my full cork grip Avids and full rear cork Dobyns float. So, in that case, the added expense pays off, should you drop one.
Boomstick reply :
On 8/17/2017 at 8:19 PM, RichPenNY said:
Just take about 6-8" of copper water pipe insulation, (the small diameter grey stuff that comes in 6' lengths at home improvement stores) and place it above the grip in front of your reel on your spinning rod or on the split grip part of your casting rod behind the reel. This is a low cost way to fish without worrying about losing your gear.
I didn't mean that cheap lol
On 8/17/2017 at 9:18 PM, J Francho said:
Actually, my full cork grip Avids and full rear cork Dobyns float. So, in that case, the added expense pays off, should you drop one.
Well that's a pretty sweet then!
J Francho reply :
As long as the reel is less than 8 oz., which most are these days, they stay at the surface. Now my split grip G. Loomis....uh, yeah that spent a week at the bottom the lake. I did get it back with a snagging hook.
fishwizzard reply :
Huh, I have never tried to see if my combos float or sink, I guess I just assumed the weight of the reel would drag even a full cork rod down. I hate dealing with rod floats, if I can get full cork rods to float then my entire kayak arsenal might have to be rethought.
J Francho reply :
I found out by accident, lol.
thinkingredneck reply :
I habe contributed one rod and reel to the rez
fishwizzard reply :
On 8/18/2017 at 1:24 AM, J Francho said:I found out by accident, lol.
That must have been an emotional rollercoaster for a few seconds there.
OP, my main concern for kayak rods is a short butt section. I don't stand to cast and always wear a PFD, so longer butts really get in the way with casting and general rod handling. I also like shorter rods as I can move about overhead cover with less hassle with my rods stored vertically. I don't care so much about casting distance as I can just drift over closer to my target. I limit myself to four combos, but rarely use more than two of them.
J Francho reply :
On 8/18/2017 at 1:46 AM, Bunnielab said:That must have been an emotional rollercoaster for a few seconds there.
Off topic, but yeah. Nearly had a hearty attack. 7' Medium Mod Avid with a Daiwa Alphas R, spooled with Tatsu, and a $25 JDM crankbait tied on.
"Oh no!!!! ...........Wait, that thing floats? Phew."
More related, I get the short rear grip thing, though wearing an inflatable helps, and I mostly stand. Even sitting, I have a Commander 140, and the perch helps.
Subaqua Adinterim reply :
On 8/17/2017 at 9:49 PM, Boomstick said:On 8/17/2017 at 8:19 PM, RichPenNY said:
Just take about 6-8" of copper water pipe insulation, (the small diameter grey stuff that comes in 6' lengths at home improvement stores) and place it above the grip in front of your reel on your spinning rod or on the split grip part of your casting rod behind the reel. This is a low cost way to fish without worrying about losing your gear.
I didn't mean that cheap lol
You may laugh - even out loud if you want. I won't take offense. I was just offering a practical solution that I know works. I have relatively inexpensive stuff - rods like Abu Veritas and SC Mojo, with Pflueger reels. Several years ago I lost 3 rigs when I dumped my kayak. Even though that stuff was less expensive than what I'm currently using; it was a terrible experience.
By using the foam insulation (and it doesn't take a very long piece), I don't worry if something slips into the water; which it has a few times. I can just reach in and grab it because it floats. Hopefully my suggestion will help someone, and save them a rod and reel combo.
Boomstick reply :
On 8/18/2017 at 9:16 AM, RichPenNY said:You may laugh - even out loud if you want. I won't take offense. I was just offering a practical solution that I know works. I have relatively inexpensive stuff - rods like Abu Veritas and SC Mojo, with Pflueger reels. Several years ago I lost 3 rigs when I dumped my kayak. Even though that stuff was less expensive than what I'm currently using; it was a terrible experience.
By using the foam insulation (and it doesn't take a very long piece), I don't worry if something slips into the water; which it has a few times. I can just reach in and grab it because it floats. Hopefully my suggestion will help someone, and save them a rod and reel combo.
I'm sorry, I totally misread that. I was at work and read it too fast it too fast as a "redneck engineering" type solution aka homemade rod, which wasn't what you were suggesting at all now that I read it again. Foam insulation seems like a good idea though.
Scrapiron reply :
I use homemade leashes on all rods on my kayak. I do unleash the one rod I am using, since I don't like the leash (paracord) when fishing. I've dumped and lost a rod/reel, so lesson learned. I may try to pipe insulation thing however.
bholtzinger14 reply :
Here is my crate. I have consolidated the lure selection and made room for my anchor and other items, but you get the point. I carry 6 rods though b/c I hate to retie.
thinkingredneck reply :
Nice. The eagle talon has a rear space that is too narow for a standard milk crate. I did mount three rod holders to a cooler. Thanks for the idea.
GrumpyOlPhartte reply :
@Bunnielab: I have a hassle with longer butts on rods since I fish from a sit-in kayak. I found that Manley rods with an adjustable butt have made my life easier. Very quick and easy to extend and retract as required. Just mentioning this in case you are interested. Great customer service if you have questions. I'm hoping to replace a couple more rods since anything with over a ten-inch butt is an accident waiting to happen in my situation.
thinkingredneck reply :
I have also gone with shorter butt rods. I don't stand in my kayak, either. I mostly use a St Croix MF BC rod. I also have a couple BPS tourney special, one M and one Heavy. I have an Abu spinning rod with a handle that is too long. A Fenwick that is a tad long. I am embarassed to admit it, but I am having good luck using an Ugly stick spinning rod, medium. Fun to use. The older I get, the less trendy I am.
RPreeb reply :
On 8/21/2017 at 1:12 AM, thinkingredneck said:I have also gone with shorter butt rods. I don't stand in my kayak, either. I mostly use a St Croix MF BC rod. I also have a couple BPS tourney special, one M and one Heavy. I have an Abu spinning rod with a handle that is too long. A Fenwick that is a tad long. I am embarassed to admit it, but I am having good luck using an Ugly stick spinning rod, medium. Fun to use. The older I get, the less trendy I am.
I'm not that embarrassed to admit that I have an Ugly Stik baitcaster. It was inexpensive, and I figure that there has to be something to them to have been a best seller since the mid 70's. Since I'm a "general purpose" angler, it suits me just fine along side my BPS MH 3 piece 7' spinning rod. These 2 rods are what I'll be going out with my in my canoe. I don't say that this is right for anyone else, but it's fine for what I do.
HookRz reply :
On 8/17/2017 at 8:19 PM, RichPenNY said:
Just take about 6-8" of copper water pipe insulation, (the small diameter grey stuff that comes in 6' lengths at home improvement stores) and place it above the grip in front of your reel on your spinning rod or on the split grip part of your casting rod behind the reel. This is a low cost way to fish without worrying about losing your gear.
Doesn't this deaden the sensitivity? It seems it would have the same effect as a silencer on a bowstring, that is, dampening vibration.
fishwizzard reply :
On 8/20/2017 at 2:31 PM, GrumpyOlPhartte said:@Bunnielab: I have a hassle with longer butts on rods since I fish from a sit-in kayak. I found that Manley rods with an adjustable butt have made my life easier. Very quick and easy to extend and retract as required. Just mentioning this in case you are interested. Great customer service if you have questions. I'm hoping to replace a couple more rods since anything with over a ten-inch butt is an accident waiting to happen in my situation.
I looked at the Manley rods, but wasn't sure how the added butt weight would affect the balance and didn't want to make my rods any more likely to sink. I use floats but prefer the small ones. I ended up getting a pair of custom spinning rods from a company in PA called SmallieStix. The owner is a huge kayak fisherman and specializes in short-butt rods. I have also found the the old Fenwick Smallmouth Elite rods have really short butts as well, so I picked up a pair of them when they were being cleared out.
But now with the revelation that a full cork handle might float a combo, I am gonna take a second look at my kayak arsenal.
Arlo Smithereen reply :
I carry anywhere from six to eight rods with me on my yak. Once I establish a pattern though, I'll usually end up using two or three mainly. But that changes daily. One day it may be a buzz bait/swim bait/creature baits that get the bite, the next day it might be a hollow body frog/square bill/swim jig type day. I want to have all those options and more available to me because I hate not having all my tools and I hate stopping to retie/change lures. Once I figure out which two or three rods I'll mainly be using I stow the rest behind me out of the way.
Also, I prefer my kayak rods no longer than 7'. I like 6'6" even better.
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