Sorry if this has already been covered
Does anyone use braid with fluorocarbon leaders.I have been trying this out. the sensitivity is awesome but the zero stretch with a fish on makes them feel like everyone of them weigh 10 pounds. It feels like it puts a lot if stress on the rod witch it probably is.
To also be truthful the leader length is excessive.
I used to. Honestly braid with flouro doesn't do anything that straight flouro won't do and without the annoying zip through the guides. It's just my opinion but I couldn't stand it. I just switched to straight hybrid which I'm also not a big fan of (on my flipping rig) and I just ordered abrazx.
Braid with FC leader is hands down the most popular line combination on this site and amoung pro's using finesse spinning presentations.
The belief is FC is invisiable to bass that might shy away from straight Braid or mono and the majority of anglers believe FC stretches less and has greater abrasion resistance then mono line.
The fact is FC has weaker knot strength, less abrasion resistance and equal stretch to mono.
It's my opinion that anglers pay more for FC and get little for there investment.
Popularity trumps logic.
Tom
I do. I use Gamma Edge FC in 6, 8, and 10# tests.
Also use, and a little more often, Yo-Zuri Hybrid line
in 6, 8, 10 and sometimes 15# test.
I do use a leader with braid at times, although it's not often fluoro. The only time I use it is with spinning gear. I only use straight braid with casting gear. Loosen your drag with this combination, that will reduce the strain on your rod and reel, and also on the line and your knot. I always want my drag to slip a little when running a braid/leader combo.
I'm a little confused by the leader length is excessive comment. Do you not add your own leader? I tie my own leaders on and will do them anywhere from the standard 2-4 feet, up to 10' or more if I'm fishing deep and need the sink rate.
All I use anymore unless I’m fishing heavy cover and then it’s straight braid. Your leader length can be as little as 6-12” up to 6-12’ if you want to. A longer leader will have more stretch and I usually stick to about 4-5’ and for me it works well. I want the stretch for treble hooks. Leaders are usually 8-15# test and are a mix of mono,copoly, and fc. Depends on the situation. I’d say 80% of the time it’s 12# big game mono though.
I started using braid to floro this year and I’ve really been enjoying the way it performs. I use 50lb strike pro braid to a 12lb seaguar blue label leader material. My leader usually starts at around 8-12 feet to allow for plenty of re-ties before it needs switching. I make the connection with an Alberto knot (super easy to tie, and has never failed on me). I use this primarily for jig/worm techniques, but I will throw a moving bait like a bladed jig or a spinnerbait on it too. As for the stress on the rod goes, maybe the rod you are using is not the correct tool for the job, what are the specs on it (power, action)?
Last summer I used straight braid and had no problems catching fish. Mostly 30 lb with 50 or 65 for my frogging. I never had a line snap.
This year on a whim I started using 14 pound test flouro leader on my plastics and on my jig rods. A couple weeks ago I was in my kayak and caught a monster that put of a great fight. As it was nearing the boat the leader snapped right in the middle. I took the leaders off all my rods and am back to straight braid.
As Tom stated it is very popular. Also as Tom stated, it's a good way to squeeze a little more $$ out of us anglers. I'm sorry but I'm old school. When I need braid, I throw braid. Straight braid, no leader. And 35lb braid is the highest test I throw. I don't buy into fish being line shy. When I don't need braid I throw good mono and in a few cases fluro. As I have said, I am a finesse guy through and through and adding additional knots to achieve....?????? More sensitivity? Not really. Strength? Not needed. IMHO, it gives more failure points without a lot of added value. You put braid on for it's lack of stretch and then add a leader so that it will stretch???? I'll stick to my straight lines......But that is just me.
If you run a leader, is a better option to run the cheaper a stiffer FC that has more resistance to abrasion? I was going to try Tatsu or sniper full spool, but if only using a leader then the sniper would be better right?
Does anyone ever have a knot issue when casting the knot through the guides?
I've had the same braid on some of my spinning reels for the past 5 years. Other than some fading color and the occasional cutback because of fraying, no need to change the line out.
This comes up often on here and my opinion never changes.
I don't use a leader or use mono for anything.
Straight flouro for everything except 2 techniques and do not have the list problems that some of you guys keep posting about. I did at one point but that was years ago.
Granted, line conditioner helps for the less expensive brands and you must be careful taking out a backlash. But the overall advantages of it far outweigh the disadvantages both real and percieved..
Try them all if you can and Use what you have confidence in...Opinions are just that.
Mike
wow thanks guys for all the replies very helpful , to answer a question earlier I'm using this set up on multiple rods.
but the one I mostly use is a Scheels outfitters rod 6' med SPA2-601MT.I have this also on a frog rod and a flipping stick.
my main reasoning for using the leader is for sensitivity and presentation, I fish a lot of heavily fished man made lakes, so I figure it may give me a little bit of an advantage.
I do get a little bit of interference with the leader knot hitting the eyelets when reeling in the line but I do not think it effects my casting distance. I need to shorten my leader length because its way to long its more like I'm using fC with a braid backing.
I don't think FC feels anything like mono. ( not trying to stir up anything just my humble opinion) this is also the first year I have tried this combination & I do value the opinion of those with more experience than myself.
I like the option of having both fluoro and braid readily available on my flipping combos. Just this last weekend we were out fishing and the southern part of the lake was clearer, with little to no vegetation, but had more timber, we ran to the north side and it was stained with some weeds. I left my leader on for the southern part and cut it off for the northern side because we were fishing more grass and less wood than we were earlier in the day. Also, I Will always go heavier than normal on my leaders on my heavy cover combos. 20lb big game is on way to large for me if I was to spool up with only that. But it works great for leader material since it is hardy and rigid and help a me pull fish out away from cover.
Took WRB' s advice and started using mono leader instead of flouro. So far, the difference I've noticed is that my FG knot lasts forever (maybe my knot skills have improved, maybe it's the line). And mono is way cheaper. No complaints here. Oh yeah, using flouro my 6 foot leader would become 7 feet long after a few good snags. Using mono, the leader stretches but returns for the most part.
I use a copoly leader, I fish some really clear pits, I think it’s more in my head than anything, but it does seem to help keep the line getting wrapped up when using a treble hook bait.
This is one of the most vexing questions. Lots of conflicting opinions. Last year I tried mono, braid and fc , all straight, plus braid with leader. Caught fish on all. I like the feel of braid with bottom baits. I have had no knot issues with the Alberto knot when I use a leader, and a leader gives me more confidence. I hate the knot going through the guides. I guess I am conflicted (or maybe afflicted).
On 5/12/2018 at 8:07 PM, thinkingredneck said:This is one of the most vexing questions. Lots of conflicting opinions. Last year I tried mono, braid and fc , all straight, plus braid with leader. Caught fish on all. I like the feel of braid with bottom baits. I have had no knot issues with the Alberto knot when I use a leader, and a leader gives me more confidence. I hate the knot going through the guides. I guess I am conflicted (or maybe afflicted).
I feel the same way. I have gone to a lot of spinning gear but have broke off 2 really nice fish and 1 not so big in the last 3 weeks after being wrapped around some wood using light mono. So now I have a mixture of straight mono, straight braid, and braid with a mono leader. I haven't noticed a difference in bites in any of the 3. I'm using about a 10 turn albright knot and have tried the FG knot too but am really close to going straight braid, but most of the pros use a leader right?...so there has to be a reason.
On a side note, I landed two 3lbers wrapped in timber with 20lb straight braid since so thats why I'm very close to going all braid on spinning gear. Even if it costs me a bite or two because of line visibility (which is still up in the air for me) I don't like putting a weak link in the chain anymore.
On 5/12/2018 at 12:58 AM, WRangler506 said:If you run a leader, is a better option to run the cheaper a stiffer FC that has more resistance to abrasion? I was going to try Tatsu or sniper full spool, but if only using a leader then the sniper would be better right?
Does anyone ever have a knot issue when casting the knot through the guides?
With micros smaller than about 5 mm the double uni knots will probably be annoying to most anglers with most line strengths that we normally use. To get the absolute smallest knot, learn the FG. It takes some time and practice, but if you want the smallest (and strongest) knot, it is the one. Some use the Alberto, but I've never been able to make it reliable-comes loose with rigorous snapping of swimbaits off the bottom. Yup, my issue, maybe not yours.
What I do is use the double uni with guide and leader combos that work OK, and the FG for the others.
On 5/12/2018 at 8:24 PM, Todd2 said:I don't like putting a weak link in the chain anymore.
Using straight braid is a trade-off for strength. While you don't need a line to leader knot, the knot of the braid to the lure becomes critical, and not all knots will work well with braid. The palomar is one of the best, but unless doubled, it also has problems reported. It also takes a lot of line when tying on a large lure, or one with more than one treble. Doubling it makes it about twice as hard to tie. I prefer to use a leader and the terminal knot is a piece of cake. And reliable.
I broke of my whopper plopper that was killing them today on a tiny “stump” just under the water, it was maybe 1” in diameter. Broke the leader trying to get it off of it, luckily I was able to get it back, so I went straight braid and actually pulled a chunk of stump off and bent a hook on a 110 plopper. I’m done with leaders on my casting rods!
On 5/12/2018 at 10:32 AM, LionHeart said:Took WRB' s advice and started using mono leader instead of flouro. So far, the difference I've noticed is that my FG knot lasts forever (maybe my knot skills have improved, maybe it's the line). And mono is way cheaper. No complaints here. Oh yeah, using flouro my 6 foot leader would become 7 feet long after a few good snags. Using mono, the leader stretches but returns for the most part.
You are tying better FG knots, I suspect.
There is one thing for certain and that is that most monofilament lines absorb water and it weakens them, knots, too. As mono absorbs water and then dries, it'll create havoc (like a pair of blue jeans washed then dried) with knots so best to re-tie often else expect some slipping and breakage.
High quality fluorocarbon lines don't absorb water.
You are spot on regarding the different characteristics of stretch between the two. There is a difference between elasticity (what monofilaments have) and plasticity (what fluorocarbons have).
While I use braid to fluoro short leaders for most of my finesse stuff, for spinning tackle in general, I have often been under the impression that people try too danged hard to use fluoro maybe because the pros often do. But, a mono leader works great.
Brad
On 5/12/2018 at 6:46 AM, Mindspread said:wow thanks guys for all the replies very helpful , to answer a question earlier I'm using this set up on multiple rods.
but the one I mostly use is a Scheels outfitters rod 6' med SPA2-601MT.I have this also on a frog rod and a flipping stick.
my main reasoning for using the leader is for sensitivity and presentation, I fish a lot of heavily fished man made lakes, so I figure it may give me a little bit of an advantage.
I do get a little bit of interference with the leader knot hitting the eyelets when reeling in the line but I do not think it effects my casting distance. I need to shorten my leader length because its way to long its more like I'm using fC with a braid backing.
I don't think FC feels anything like mono. ( not trying to stir up anything just my humble opinion) this is also the first year I have tried this combination & I do value the opinion of those with more experience than myself.
What kind of knot do you tie your braid to the flouro leader? I use a uni to uni knot. It casts really well and doesn't give much if any resistance reeling back through the guides. It's also a pretty strong knot. The FG knot is supposed to be the strongest and maybe even thinnest main line to leader knot to use. I haven't tried it yet because it looks to be kinda hard to tie and takes some time also. The uni to uni knot is pretty simple and fairly quick to tie. Hasn't failed me yet.
I personally do use a leader at least for very clear smallmouth fishing. Usually 3ft if AbradeX. At this point I can tie uni to uni knot in 30 seconds and it is slightly easier to tie on new lures instead of braid but not a huge deal in that regard. I have heard the fluro is more abrasion resistant as well which is nice because when I am using it I am is usually running a jig or tube through rocks for smallmouth.
If I'm going for Larry's on a dingy water lake I don't bother with leader
On 5/13/2018 at 10:51 AM, MichaelCopeland said:What kind of knot do you tie your braid to the flouro leader? I use a uni to uni knot. It casts really well and doesn't give much if any resistance reeling back through the guides. It's also a pretty strong knot. The FG knot is supposed to be the strongest and maybe even thinnest main line to leader knot to use. I haven't tried it yet because it looks to be kinda hard to tie and takes some time also. The uni to uni knot is pretty simple and fairly quick to tie. Hasn't failed me yet.
The double uni is, in my opinion, the knot to use if your guides will pass it cleanly. Depends on the line, leader, and guide sizes. The FG is fine if you get to where you can tie it reliably. There are a number of ways to tie it, and I've tried a few of them. The video link shows what I think is the best method because it is easy to keep the weaves in proper orientation, easy to get 20 of them, easy to tie the half hitches. With some other methods I've had trouble keeping all the "stuff" together, and often my knots failed.
On 5/13/2018 at 10:51 AM, MichaelCopeland said:What kind of knot do you tie your braid to the flouro leader? I use a uni to uni knot. It casts really well and doesn't give much if any resistance reeling back through the guides. It's also a pretty strong knot. The FG knot is supposed to be the strongest and maybe even thinnest main line to leader knot to use. I haven't tried it yet because it looks to be kinda hard to tie and takes some time also. The uni to uni knot is pretty simple and fairly quick to tie. Hasn't failed me yet.
Double Uni knot, the FG knot looks a little complicated but I will give it a try. I don't remember the name of the knot I'm using to tie the lure to the FC you guys may know the name, you put a loop through the eye of the hook or lure then pinch in your finger to make another loop wrap it three times then thread it back through the loop at your fingers pull everything tight and trim the three ends.
Im still trying to wrap my head around the whole FC/Mono leader thing with a braid backer. Im new to super lines in the past 12 months.
Aside from needing a line to sink or float for specific techniques. Why the need for a perceived advantage of the fish not being able to see the line, on a chartruese colored piece of plastic. With treble hooks and a split ring hanging off of it.
Who here uses or has used Big Game Mono? 14-17 lbs BG is like working with welding wire and what, millions of fish have been caught with it?
Now we have braids that are 6lbs diameter and 20lbs test and people are still buying into the "FC is invisible and Im going to tie a second knot, into a knot critical appilcation anyway". By the time you get into a braid, that would equal the diameter of 15lbs mono. You have a breaking point, that is greater than the vast majority of fresh water world records.
Again, I dont understand it, but there are many things I dont understand. Im not knocking anyone that is tieing up a leader. Clearly the guys who fish to pay the bills do it and that is often enoungh for others to justify it.
I run 8lbs NanoFil on everything aside from my worm/crawfish rig and it has 20lbs Sufix 832(6lbs mono dia) in bright yellow. So, Im clearly a little odd on the matter to start with.
On 5/13/2018 at 11:06 PM, Mindspread said:Double Uni knot, the FG knot looks a little complicated but I will give it a try. I don't remember the name of the knot I'm using to tie the lure to the FC you guys may know the name, you put a loop through the eye of the hook or lure then pinch in your finger to make another loop wrap it three times then thread it back through the loop at your fingers pull everything tight and trim the three ends.
Not sure which knot you're referring to. Surgeon's knot?
Anyhow, as for the Double Uni, it's actually one of the
easiest to tie, once you see how it goes, you'll see why.
The FG may be the smallest, but it's also the longest for
bass fishing. And, though some here have success, I
could never get it to hold using 10 or 15# braid and
leaders from 6-15# test.
I have one rod with micro guides, my SC Legend Tourney.
I normally use smaller diameter lines with it, and the
uni-to-uni goes through just fine, so long as the tag ends
are tightly cropped. Just FWIW.
Meant to add that part of the issue people have with using
a leader, and being concerned it is the weak link, is the
breaking strength. Those tests you see online are not, shall
I say, real world tests unless your drag is locked down.
Point being, a properly set drag will go a long ways toward
keeping that "weak link" attached. I can't remember the
last time I broke at the leader knot. Honestly. The entire
system, from drag, to rod strength, to lines is important.
I view braid as a necessary evil on spinning reels but really do not like to use it. I am trying it on a few casting reels this year and so far I am not liking it at all. I have been tying leaders and fishing it straight and neither way seems better then just straight fluoro or mono. I am having the most success with the thickest stuff I am using, 55lb Suffix, and having the worst with the thinnest, 30lb J-Braid.
On 5/14/2018 at 12:05 AM, Darren. said:Not sure which knot you're referring to. Surgeon's knot?
This topic drives me bonkers, for the simple fact that I don't know which way to go.
Last year, I went straight braid and the 2 previous were braid to a metal leader. This year, on my cranking set up, 40lb braid to 12lb FC leader and now I'm thinking of going straight FC. My frog/pitch/swimbait rod was going to get 60lb braid to 20 FC leader for pitch/swimbait(jigs). Now I'm thinking, I'll move the 40lb braid to my frog set up and w/ 20lb FC leader (double uni or alberto knot for me, whichever is more cooperative that day.
On 5/14/2018 at 7:49 PM, Mindspread said:
Klein's knot looks like a version of double line Pitzen to me...
On 5/15/2018 at 2:25 AM, Dangerfield said:This topic drives me bonkers, for the simple fact that I don't know which way to go.
Last year, I went straight braid
Just curious, what did you not like about straight braid, I'm trying that out now and its really growing on me more and more.
On 5/15/2018 at 2:41 AM, Todd2 said:
Just curious, what did you not like about straight braid, I'm trying that out now and its really growing on me more and more.
It worked great in certain situations, and I think that's a big part of the convo. It has it's moments. Works really well with glide baits, swimbaits (hard) and most topwater like a WP or a spook style. I certainly can't go straight braid on my cranking rig or throwing ultra light lures. I'm on the fence, if I want to pitch/swimjig without a leader or not...yet.
I like the way straight braid casts, I think it comes out of a baitcaster a little smother, I don't really have an issue with light mono such as the good ole 10lb berkley . But I have issues with some of the heavier mono and FC. So I figure the FC leader would give me the best of both worlds.does it really offer and advantage as far as will I catch more fish with a leader or straight braid or straight mono or would it had made a difference on whether or not a particular fish would have struck or not. Who knows, I think the more Important thing is to use what you have the most confidence in weather it has a real advantage or not.
I tie the FG knot and have good success with it. Not terribly complicated once you tie it a half dozen times or so. It does have a very small diameter when properly tied. On occasion I will tie a FC leader to main line braid when I want to use a rod that’s spooled up with good braid and don’t want to waste it.
I will agree that FC somehow got the reputation of having little to no stretch and being the preferred line for jigs and T-rigging for non braid applications. However, FC most certainly has a noticeable amount of stretch, not a ton mind you, but a noticeable amount, and may not be so different from mono. I have never fished mono over 12 lbs, but I would assume 17-20 lb mono has some beef to it and less stretch then say 6 lb mono. That being said, I’ll stick with FC, it is very translucent under water, and the sensitivity is nice.
3 years ago i started using braid plus a big game leader. Never looked back, i use this setup for everything. From ned rig to a 10 inch hudd. I tie a leader big enough to last a fishing day. The only reason i tie a leader is to be able to break off when i snag. Try breaking 80lb braid, the rod will bust in half way before the hook or braid gives
On 5/11/2018 at 7:40 PM, Dens228 said:Last summer I used straight braid and had no problems catching fish. Mostly 30 lb with 50 or 65 for my frogging. I never had a line snap.
This year on a whim I started using 14 pound test flouro leader on my plastics and on my jig rods. A couple weeks ago I was in my kayak and caught a monster that put of a great fight. As it was nearing the boat the leader snapped right in the middle. I took the leaders off all my rods and am back to straight braid.
It's either your knot, or your line guides, or bad batch of floro...
I've straightened out (not completely but bent it out enough to free me from a log and ruin the hook ) a 3/0 gamakatsu with cheap 10lb seaguar red label as a leader.
On 5/11/2018 at 10:47 AM, WRB said:The fact is FC has weaker knot strength, less abrasion resistance and equal stretch to mono.
The fact is, this statement is an opinion. And it is always best to avoid generalizations with any statement. It is absolutely misleading to state that ALL monofilament lines have greater knot strength, more abrasion resistance, and equal stretch as ALL fluorocarbon lines. Purely opinion, to which everyone is entitled to.
Some FC lines are more abrasion resistant than mono and some less. Some stretch more than, equal to, and less than mono. As far as knot strength, the only 'fact' is that a properly tied knot is stronger than an improperly tied knot; braid, mono, or FC. Therefore, the more knots you have to tie between you and your lure, the greater chance for failure.
Like others, I firmly believe that FC is more sensitive than mono for slack line presentations and nothing beats braid for tight line sensitivity. Each type of line has its strengths and weaknesses. JMHO.
On 5/17/2018 at 2:42 AM, fishindad said:The fact is, this statement is an opinion. And it is always best to avoid generalizations with any statement. It is absolutely misleading to state that ALL monofilament lines have greater knot strength, more abrasion resistance, and equal stretch as ALL fluorocarbon lines. Purely opinion, to which everyone is entitled to.
Some FC lines are more abrasion resistant than mono and some less. Some stretch more than, equal to, and less than mono. As far as knot strength, the only 'fact' is that a properly tied knot is stronger than an improperly tied knot; braid, mono, or FC. Therefore, the more knots you have to tie between you and your lure, the greater chance for failure.
Like others, I firmly believe that FC is more sensitive than mono for slack line presentations and nothing beats braid for tight line sensitivity. Each type of line has its strengths and weaknesses. JMHO.
I have tested a lot line using diameter, not label pound test, as the equalizer and stand by what I wrote as a generalized statement of fact. You also need to factor in impact strength. Comparing anything performed poorly verses properly is misleading statement. Fortunately my career field gave me the use of very highend aerospace test equipment to control forces applied for personal use.
Until some organization sets up standardized test methods and procedures all line data is subjective. I believe line should rated by American Wire Gage using diameter and referencing break strength.
Then we have over 20 years on the water experience with FC line to factor in.
I have stated many times that fluorocarbon line is has less coeffient of drag going though water then either Nylon monofilament or braid of equal diameter, that is a fact and what most anglers feel as less stretch and better lure/bottom contact feedback.
Less belly in the line equals better feedback.
The clinch, Trilene and Palomar knots precede FC line for fresh water fishing applications. Can anyone name all the knots developed for FC line? Tell why so many knots were developed for FC if knot strength isn't the cause.
I still use FC line for a few presentations where feedback can outweigh knot failure.
Tom
PS, I plan on giving P-Line Tactical 6# and 12# a trail, similar dia's to both Sunline and Seaguar FC.
As stated many times before, I've used Flouro (Sniper and Shooter) for years and can honestly say I can't remember having a knot (SDJ) fail solely based on the line.
The line has broke because I was careless in checking for knicks and scrapes but that's my fault.
Mike
On 5/17/2018 at 4:08 AM, WRB said:I have tested a lot line using diameter, not label pound test, as the equalizer and stand by what I wrote as a generalized statement of fact. You also need to factor in impact strength. Comparing anything performed poorly verses properly is misleading statement. Fortunately my career field gave me the use of very highend aerospace test equipment to control forces applied for personal use.
Until some organization sets up standardized test methods and procedures all line data is subjective. I believe line should rated by American Wire Gage using diameter and referencing break strength.
Then we have over 20 years on the water experience with FC line to factor in.
I have stated many times that fluorocarbon line is has less coeffient of drag going though water then either Nylon monofilament or braid of equal diameter, that is a fact and what most anglers feel as less stretch and better lure/bottom contact feedback.
Less belly in the line equals better feedback.
The clinch, Trilene and Palomar knots precede FC line for fresh water fishing applications. Can anyone name all the knots developed for FC line? Tell why so many knots were developed for FC if knot strength isn't the cause.
I still use FC line for a few presentations where feedback can outweigh knot failure.
Tom
PS, I plan on giving P-Line Tactical 6# and 12# a trail, similar dia's to both Sunline and Seaguar FC.
Tom, I'm not totally disagreeing with your sentiments about FC lines. Like you, and many others here, I have lots of years of fishing experience with all 3 modern "types" of lines available to us. Could an angler get by with just monofilament line? You bet. The late Billy Westmoreland and Buck Perry (just to name two old timers) could fish the pants off anyone now using only mono (heck, those two only needing a single lure; hoss fly and spoonplug, respectively). But, and this is a big but, for all the headaches that come with FC lines, it does have significant, measureable qualities superior to mono or braid. One wouldn't use FC for topwater nor braid for cranking because they aren't the best choice for those respective presentations. Mono floats, FC not so much. Braid has little stretch, mono is like a rubber band, comparatively. As Mike L. alludes to, almost all the issues people (myself included) have with FC knots breaking or backlashes causing nicks and kinks - these are due to operator error, not the line itself. FC requires MUCH more care and accuracy when knot tying and casting. If one is a low maintenance person and rarely wants to retie, backlashes often, etc, then FC is not for you. A lot of the posts about FC vs mono are from novice or rookie anglers who have only used mono and think they can treat FC like mono. You can't, it's apples to oranges. But if you want to "up your game" and take advantage of all the qualities each type of line has to offer, one needs to put in the time on the water and learn "the hard way" by not treating all line the same as mono. Try convincing saltwater flats guys casting flies to bonefish and permit that FC leaders/tippets aren't getting them more fish, lol. A Mart was one of the first guys to introduce FC to the BASS Elite guys and look how that caught fire. You can bet the learning curve was the same for guys used to using mono all their careers but how many now fish with FC?? A Mart has years of on the water experience with FC so he was ahead of the game.
Sorry, long post but bottom line is we each eventually figure out if it is "worth it" to fish FC (or braid). IMO, if one is willing to put in the time to learn, and pay attention to details, then FC can definitely help anglers put more fish in the boat. If it's too much hassle or cost, no harm no foul.
On 5/17/2018 at 7:38 AM, fishindad said:for all the headaches that come with FC lines, it does have significant, measureable qualities superior to mono or braid.
Measurable or perceived...most of the fluorocarbon advantages we use to read about have been busted. Braid beats Fluoro in low stretch, sensitivity, abrasion, knot strength. Fluoro wins the visibility and quiet awards if those are important to you.
My debate has been braid vs mono for a while, but that's my take on it..all 3 will catch fish.
I target bass that outweigh the line test being used for decades with mono line without ever breaking off a bass due to knot failure. If you look at my top 5 bass they were all caught using 10 lb mono (Big Game or XT) on long casts over 90' away from the boat. I can't say I never broke off a DD bass using FC line because I more times then putting in the boat using 10 to 12 lb FC. It's not my knot tieing or handling, it's the FC line. These big bass are very strong and must be kept under control or they get into things that end badly.
Tom