I just got my baitcasting reel. What should I know before my 1st cast? 2024
Wizzlebiz reply :
I just recieved my baitcasting reel. I have spooled it with 30 lb braid. What do I need to know before I make my 1st cast with it? I have never used one before.
Thanks.
new2BC4bass reply :
Set spool tension and brakes. However, we can't give any advice until we know the model reel you bought.
Hammer 4 reply :
Which one did you get, i.e. make and model..? I'd suggest if you haven't already, check out youtube for guides on how to set up, and use a baitcasting reel, will save you some time and frustration..
BaitFinesse reply :
How to pick out a backlash.
Wizzlebiz reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 7:29 AM, Hammer 4 said:Which one did you get, i.e. make and model..? I'd suggest if you haven't already, check out youtube for guides on how to set up, and use a baitcasting reel, will save you some time and frustration..
This is the model I purchased.
islandbass reply :
Take off the braid... now, lol. You're going to waste it. Put on 10-14# mono. That is priority #1. I am speaking from real experience. I also spooled my first baitcaster with 30# braid too. I also come from a spinning background. The time to take the thumb off the spool is much sooner than when you remove your forefinger off of a spinning reel. If you attempt an over hand cast, I can practically guarantee that you will slam your first cast into the ground in front of you and waste the braid.
Use at least 1/2 oz bass casting weight to learn with.
Lastly, I hope you bought a baitcaster whose handle is on the same side as what your spinning reels have. If not, I'd exchange it. There is no need to reprogram yourself unless you had planned on becoming proficient fishing both ways.
Wizzlebiz reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 8:20 AM, islandbass said:Take off the braid... now, lol. You're going to waste it. Put on 10-14# mono. That is priority #1. I am speaking from real experience. I also spooled my first baitcaster with 30# braid too. I also come from a spinning background. The time to take the thumb off the spool is much sooner than when you remove your forefinger off of a spinning reel. If you attempt an over hand cast, I can practically guarantee that you will slam your first cast into the ground in front of you and waste the braid.
Use at least 1/2 oz bass casting weight to learn with.
Lastly, I hope you bought a baitcaster whose handle is on the same side as what your spinning reels have. If not, I'd exchange it. There is no need to reprogram yourself unless you had planned on becoming proficient fishing both ways.
Thank you for all the info. I made sure the handle is on the side I use my spinning gear. That was actually #1 priority lol. Im a lefty and enjoy reeling with my right hand.
Will mono react better with backlashes than braid? How about Fluorocarbon? I want the least issues however I really like the strength of braid.
Thank you once again!
Choporoz reply :
https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/cast-adjust-baitcast.html
M0xxie reply :
Baitcasting is about training your thumb -- most backlashes occur because of improper settings for whatever size lure you're using, true, but even if you don't have reel tuned properly, you can nearly always avoid a backlash with a "smart thumb" instead of a "dumb thumb". Use your thumb as an extra set of breaks to feather the spool during cast, and then clamp down with thumb to stop the spool completely just before the lure hits the water, which makes for a less noisy entry that's less likely to spook fish, as well as stops overrun.
If you can feel line coming off too fast, you can always just abort the cast with thumb pressure, reel in, readjust, and try again.
Also during your cast, if you hold rod so that the spool's axis is vertical, instead of horizontal, this seems to prevent a lot of backlash, too.
new2BC4bass reply :
My Revos are all older models so I can't offer suggestions on how to set the brakes other than to say start high and slowly back off. Adjust spool tension so the lure falls slowly and has no overrun when the lure hits the ground. If this were a Magforce Z reel, then my spool tension advice would be different.
Braid is expensive. 30# works on a baitcast reel, but you have to keep it fairly tight on the spool. I'd suggest starting with 40# if you want to start with braid. As a newbie backlashes are guaranteed. Less costly to replace mono or co-polymer.
Don't start with the overhead cast. Learn with a side arm roll cast. Baitcast reels hate jerky motions. A roll cast keeps the rod tip loaded. Be smooth. I came from spinning reels. Release timing is completely different...as already mentioned. The roll cast will be your friend.
Most fluorocarbons are going to be more prone to backlashing then any of the other line types...with a couple exceptions on both sides.
Wizzlebiz reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 8:43 AM, Choporoz said:https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/cast-adjust-baitcast.html
Yep I watched it actually 3 times lol. I like to be able to ask questions. Unfortunately the videos dont reply.
haggard reply :
- cast downwind, not upwind or sidewind
- set brakes half way
- put on a 1/4 to 1/2 oz weight lure
- set spool tension to when you press the thumb bar (freespool) the lure just starts to drop
- start with a gentle side arm cast and keep your thumb gently on the line on the spool while casting
- as soon as lure hits ground/water, fully stop the spool with your thumb
Backlashes are likely. To untangle them:
- press thumb bar to release spool
- pick a random bunch of line at top of spool and pull up
- pinch line coming out of the line guide and pull it forward (while putting pressure on spool with thumb)
- engage reel
- pinch line coming out of the line guide and pull line out
go to step 1, repeat....
It's not as bad as it sounds.
Someone mentioned trying with mono for starters, not braid. I'm thinking good advice. Much cheaper, and mono is probably a little more forgiving for removing backlashes. Certainly cheaper if you have to cut the line.
Baitcaster is pretty awesome; don't let the backlashes scare you. Take the time to get to know it, and enjoy.
new2BC4bass reply :
There is one terrible downside to your first baitcast reel. It won't be your last. 
diehardbassfishing reply :
Roll cast might not be such a great "early to try" exercise. It's very rod sensitive - if have a broomstick, OhOh.
Just good even swing side-arm is best way to start out.
Karl
Fishes in trees reply :
I agree with losing the braid until you learn more about how to use the reel. If you can put it back on the spool it come on using an electric drill that would be best. Now - step A - go get some cheap but decent mono. Stay away from big game or p-line. I'd start out with 14 lb.
There are lots of opinions on how to learn. Me, if I had to do it all over again, I'd learn how to pitch first. There are many videos on u-tube that will give you the general idea - then just practice. It is worth the money to get a pick to help you untangle backlashes. Good luck.
You make no mention about what rod you got to go with the reel - for a learner I'd recommend one with a medium action and a forgiving tip. A 6'6" Medium Berkley Lightning Rod, something like that. Your classic pitching stick 7' to 7 1/2, MH to Heavy, extra fast tip, isn't the kind of stick you learn on. It is the kind that you graduate to once you understand the basics of how to coordinate your thumb, wrist, arm & elbow.
Wizzlebiz reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 10:51 AM, diehardbassfishing said:Roll cast might not be such a great "early to try" exercise. It's very rod sensitive - if have a broomstick, OhOh.
Just good even swing side-arm is best way to start out.
Karl
From all the videos I have watched and the limited bit I did in my back yard I am seeing it needs to be a smooth motion. So far any type of snapping causes a backlash lol. Thats ok though. I will get out to the water and learn my lessons like the rest and master this beast!
Alonerankin2 reply :
Mono is much cheaper and perfect for the learning curve you will go thru..
If you backlash severely, you can cut it out and respool..
Use heavier lead weights as in a bank sinker etc.
I noticed you didn't state the rod, length, action etc.
The rod is a critical component here as well.
Good luck and best wishes.
PhishLI reply :
islandbass reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 8:26 AM, Wizzlebiz said:Thank you for all the info. I made sure the handle is on the side I use my spinning gear. That was actually #1 priority lol. Im a lefty and enjoy reeling with my right hand.
Will mono react better with backlashes than braid? How about Fluorocarbon? I want the least issues however I really like the strength of braid.
Thank you once again!
Unfortunately, no line is immune from potential backlash. However, it’s less painful to the wallet, lol.
mono is just the economic choice even if money is not an object. Why waste good line. That’s all. You could probably have enough line even on a filler spool to fill your reel twice.
So for the learning process, stay away from fc or braid. It’s just not worth wasting more expensive line when cheap mono is more than adequate.
Wizzlebiz reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 9:18 AM, haggard said:- cast downwind, not upwind or sidewind
- set brakes half way
- put on a 1/4 to 1/2 oz weight lure
- set spool tension to when you press the thumb bar (freespool) the lure just starts to drop
- start with a gentle side arm cast and keep your thumb gently on the line on the spool while casting
- as soon as lure hits ground/water, fully stop the spool with your thumb
Backlashes are likely. To untangle them:
- press thumb bar to release spool
- pick a random bunch of line at top of spool and pull up
- pinch line coming out of the line guide and pull it forward (while putting pressure on spool with thumb)
- engage reel
- pinch line coming out of the line guide and pull line out
go to step 1, repeat....
It's not as bad as it sounds.
Someone mentioned trying with mono for starters, not braid. I'm thinking good advice. Much cheaper, and mono is probably a little more forgiving for removing backlashes. Certainly cheaper if you have to cut the line.
Baitcaster is pretty awesome; don't let the backlashes scare you. Take the time to get to know it, and enjoy.
I took a screen shot of this post so when I dont have service while fishing I can pull this up.
Thank you.
Sam reply :
Suggestions:
Balance rod, line test, bait weight with the reel. Stay within the rod's parameters. Use the "average line test" by adding up the high and low line test limits and divide by two. You now have the optimum line test for your rod.
Set up baitcaster ready to fish while at home and go outside. Point rod tip to 11 o'clock and using the spool tension knob to slow or speed up the line coming off the spool, release the line on the spool. You want the bait to fall slowly to the ground (not carpet) and have the spool stop when the bait hits the ground. You do this a few times and use the spool tension knob and your drag to set this up. You do this every time you change baits while fishing.
Then cast your lure as far as you can and pull out three arm-lengths of line off spool. Place Scotch tape or some electrical tape over the remaining line on the spool. This will stop backlashes from going deeper into your line. You don't need much tape. Just enough to cover a section of the line on the spool.
The 11 o'clock trick will have your bait stop as it approaches or hits the water. When throwing your baits you can start your retrieve as the bait gets ready to hit the water on each cast. No worries about backlashes unless you hit a tree, bush, or the boat's windshield while casting.
Always look up and all around yourself when bank fishing to avoid overhanging trees that can snag your bait and create the Backlash from the Devil.
Adjust the bait's fall rate so you will maximize your casts and avoid backlashes. You will get the hang of it and never have a backlash.
Good luck.
The Bassman reply :
What I see as I follow this thread is a very good student who is going to excel at this. My bit of advice is to understand that no matter how much one studies technique there's no substitute for experience. It's like learning to drive a straight stick. You develop a natural feel for it. The "educated thumb" comes with time.
Mike L reply :
You got some Excellent advise.
The only thing I will add is don't get discouraged when you backlash, your first cast's go straight down, or you don't get the distance you want.
As as you learn, in time all that will come.
Mike
haggard reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 2:00 PM, Wizzlebiz said:I took a screen shot of this post so when I dont have service while fishing I can pull this up.
Thank you.
Also note you don't have to follow those steps absolutely in order. I mix them around a bit randomly. For excample, you might try two or three sets of "pick up and pull" before engaging the reel. It depends on what the backlash is telling you. You'll just learn to "feel" the backlash. When things loosen up a bit, that's a good time to engage the reel and pull some line out. For me the process is fast and somewhat random, not slow and deliberate. Don't ever pull too tight or you'll make things worse. Maybe I'll do a video on it this weekend (there are probably plenty out there).
Yeajray231 reply :
Your spool tension is much more important than your brakes. Set the spool tension so that your lure will fall to the ground and not "over run" when you engage the reel. Set your brakes half way up and you'll be fine. Work the spool tension a little looser as you get more comfortable. The braid is fine, and preferred on my reels. Again, THE SPOOL TENSION KNOB is most important. If your spool tension is tight then you will not have any nasty back lashes.
When you do backlash, they can be hard to pick out but use a thin needle to dig the loops out. I use a pick set I bought at harbor freight very cheaply and it works nicely. I've picked many out... I don't backlash much anymore unless I make a bad cast and hit an overhead limb while bank fishing.
Also, thumb (or "feather" ) the spool especially if you think you've casted farther than you intended. The backlash comes from the spool continuing to rotate when the lure has losr momentum.. a trained thumb will prevent this.
Definitely fun to use, you'll have a few before you know it.
NHBull reply :
This works for me 90% of the time
new2BC4bass reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 10:51 AM, diehardbassfishing said:Roll cast might not be such a great "early to try" exercise. It's very rod sensitive - if have a broomstick, OhOh.
Just good even swing side-arm is best way to start out.
Karl
I learned with a side arm cast. Was tough for me. It wasn't until later that I tried the roll cast. Maybe it was because I knew how to cast before trying the roll cast, but I find it vastly easier to execute. I use it from Light to Heavy power rods. I don't notice a difference in my ability to use any of my rods....but I don't own a cue stick. 
Hopefully the OP didn't buy a cue stick for his first rod.
Wizzlebiz reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 3:02 PM, Sam said:Suggestions:
Balance rod, line test, bait weight with the reel. Stay within the rod's parameters. Use the "average line test" by adding up the high and low line test limits and divide by two. You now have the optimum line test for your rod.
Set up baitcaster ready to fish while at home and go outside. Point rod tip to 11 o'clock and using the spool tension knob to slow or speed up the line coming off the spool, release the line on the spool. You want the bait to fall slowly to the ground (not carpet) and have the spool stop when the bait hits the ground. You do this a few times and use the spool tension knob and your drag to set this up. You do this every time you change baits while fishing.
Then cast your lure as far as you can and pull out three arm-lengths of line off spool. Place Scotch tape or some electrical tape over the remaining line on the spool. This will stop backlashes from going deeper into your line. You don't need much tape. Just enough to cover a section of the line on the spool.
The 11 o'clock trick will have your bait stop as it approaches or hits the water. When throwing your baits you can start your retrieve as the bait gets ready to hit the water on each cast. No worries about backlashes unless you hit a tree, bush, or the boat's windshield while casting.
Always look up and all around yourself when bank fishing to avoid overhanging trees that can snag your bait and create the Backlash from the Devil.
Adjust the bait's fall rate so you will maximize your casts and avoid backlashes. You will get the hang of it and never have a backlash.
Good luck.
The avg test limit for the rod is 22.5 lb. The drag on the reel is 18lb. Ive been told by my local bait shop I shouldnt go over the drag limit but I dont think they know much of anythig about bass fishing tbh. Lol. Then again neither do I so I think its a case of blind leading the blind. Lmao
Ratherbfishing reply :
Until you get the hang of it, try not to use it as a hammer.
Wizzlebiz reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 11:43 PM, Ratherbfishing said:Until you get the hang of it, try not to use it as a hammer.
Yea. Im gonna stay smooth as a cucumber until I am extremely comfortable.
On 8/22/2019 at 10:41 PM, new2BC4bass said:I learned with a side arm cast. Was tough for me. It wasn't until later that I tried the roll cast. Maybe it was because I knew how to cast before trying the roll cast, but I find it vastly easier to execute. I use it from Light to Heavy power rods. I don't notice a difference in my ability to use any of my rods....but I don't own a cue stick.
Med heavy fast tip 7 foot 3 inch.
new2BC4bass reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 11:47 PM, Wizzlebiz said:Yea. Im gonna stay smooth as a cucumber until I am extremely comfortable.
Med heavy fast tip 7 foot 3 inch.
Excellent choice. Versatile. My MHF rods out number all other power rods.
islandbass reply :
Two last things
1) you must learn how to let the weight of the lure load the rod so that the rod can toss your lure like a catapult. You probably know as well as I do that you can get away with not doing this with a spinning rod with zero consequence/penalty but NOT with a casting set up. Other than figuring out the timing of the release, This is probably the second most challenging thing for spinning background folks to overcome if they have the bad habit of failing to load the rod properly on the cast. If they already do this, this point is moot.
2) do not hesitate to stop the spool dead cold if suspect or feel something isn’t or wasn’t done right. For example if you realized you let your thumb off too late on an overhand cast, stop it could turkey before the lure smacks down in front of you. Or, if you were mindful enough to realize your made your cast but failed to load the rod properly, stop the spool cold and start over.
Stopping the spool from spinning before the lure hits the ground, water, or a shrub does a heckuva lot to prevent a birdsnest. Why? Because a spool can’t overrun if it isn’t spinning, lol.
Bankbeater reply :
When your casting remember to look behind you to make sure you won’t hit anything when you cast. Nothing kills a spool of line faster than hitting a bush that’s behind you that you didn’t know was there.
Sam reply :
Don't be too concerned with the drag. You can put the drag wherever you want it. Just be sure it is tight enough to hold the spool in place.
Your goal is to set up the spool to avoid backlashes.
BassNJake reply :
You will backlash and when that happens a crochet needle is what I found to be the best tool to use.
They are cheap and have a rounded point so it wont dig between braid and some have a pointed end.
Can be found in the craft section of Walmart or stores like Joanne Fabrics or Michael's and of course online.
islandbass reply :
On 8/23/2019 at 4:51 AM, BassNJake said:You will backlash and when that happens a crochet needle is what I found to be the best tool to use.
They are cheap and have a rounded point so it wont dig between braid and some have a pointed end.
Can be found in the craft section of Walmart or stores like Joanne Fabrics or Michael's and of course online.
You know, I’ve been considering getting one for the longest time. I know they come in different sizes so I’ll try to find one that would be decent for both thin and thick lines. At the very least, if the fishing is slow I suppose you could crochet a couple of reel covers, lol.
Wizzlebiz reply :
So I decided to go out to the delta. I live in northern California. I dropped a line in the water with frozen anchovies for stripers (tis the season) and spent 6 hours throwing the Baitcaster. A couple of backlashes but nothing terrible. No Braid lost at all. Every backlash I was able to fairly easily get it pulled and back on the road. I used a rattle trap 1/2 oz as my 1st lure. I found the brakes half down work well for me. My thumb is already able to feel if and loops are forming during the cast and applies pressure to slow the spool.
I am absolutely loving this! The ability to trully control the distance, accuracy, and the entry into the water are just leaps and bounds better than my spinning set up.
Thank you all for the info before I went out today. Without it I wouldnt have known to stop the spool right before it hit the water. That was probably the most important piece of information you all gave me.
Hammer 4 reply :
On 8/23/2019 at 8:01 AM, Wizzlebiz said:So I decided to go out to the delta. I live in northern California. I dropped a line in the water with frozen anchovies for stripers (tis the season) and spent 6 hours throwing the Baitcaster. A couple of backlanshes but nothing terrible. No Braid lost at all. Every backlash I was about to fairly easily get it pulled and back on the road. I used a rattle trap 1/2 oz as my 1st lure. I found the brakes half down work well for me. My thumb is already able to feel if and loops are forming during the cast and applies pressure to slow the spool.
I am absolutely loving this! The ability to trully control the distance, accuracy, and the entry into the water are just leaps and bounds better than my spinning set up.
Thank you all for the info before I went out today. Without it I wouldnt have known to stop the spool right before it hit the water. That was probably the most important piece of information you all gave me.
And it only gets better with time on the water..
Wizzlebiz reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 10:20 PM, NHBull said:This works for me 90% of the time
This technique saved me a lot of time picking at the nest tbh. It didnt get tham all undone. I had to do some picking but it worked alot more often than it didnt.
roadwarrior reply :
https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/cast-adjust-baitcast.html
onenutinthewater reply :
That once you get the hang it you will become obsessed with owning many more..........
islandbass reply :
On 8/23/2019 at 4:25 AM, Bankbeater said:When your casting remember to look behind you to make sure you won’t hit anything when you cast. Nothing kills a spool of line faster than hitting a bush that’s behind you that you didn’t know was there.
So true, lol! Or you knew was there but you thought you had enough space. I did this just this week but with an overhanging tree. It was clear behind me but not completely above me. Luckily, it was a spinning rig, but if it were a baitcasting rig, I'm pretty sure that rig would have been laid to rest until I got home.
Wizzlebiz reply :
On 8/23/2019 at 8:33 PM, roadwarrior said:https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/cast-adjust-baitcast.html
Just learned from this. Thank you. I went again today for about 5 hours. I brought only the baitcaster so no matter what I had to deal with the situation. I figured out a bunch but I realize when setting up my reel I may have been holding the rod to high. I was holding it at a 45 degree angle and Glenn said 90 degrees. Further more I was good side arm casting but not over head casting. It was due to my hand positioning.
Thank you for the link. Its very helpful.
ClackerBuzz reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 8:43 AM, M0xxie said:Baitcasting is about training your thumb -- most backlashes occur because of improper settings for whatever size lure you're using, true, but even if you don't have reel tuned properly, you can nearly always avoid a backlash with a "smart thumb" instead of a "dumb thumb". Use your thumb as an extra set of breaks to feather the spool during cast, and then clamp down with thumb to stop the spool completely just before the lure hits the water, which makes for a less noisy entry that's less likely to spook fish, as well as stops overrun.
If you can feel line coming off too fast, you can always just abort the cast with thumb pressure, reel in, readjust, and try again.
Also during your cast, if you hold rod so that the spool's axis is vertical, instead of horizontal, this seems to prevent a lot of backlash, too.
Well said. Only thing I'll add is go cast in ur backyard at night. No house lights and preferably in the complete dark. You will instinctively do two things:
Make short casts. Thumb spool the entire cast.
Not being able to see ur lure/weight means you won't know when it's going to hit the ground. It will force you to thumb brake the entire time. Go crazy and over thumb brake. There is no consequence to stopping the lure mid air with a total spool thumb brake (something even us 'experienced anglers' should do during an aborted cast). You'll have a smart/educated thumb much faster and make shorter casts from muscle memory alone. Help a blind man see.
Chris at Tech reply :
On 8/22/2019 at 3:02 PM, Sam said:Then cast your lure as far as you can and pull out three arm-lengths of line off spool. Place Scotch tape or some electrical tape over the remaining line on the spool. This will stop backlashes from going deeper into your line. You don't need much tape. Just enough to cover a section of the line on the spool.
This, this, this!!!
M0xxie reply :
On 8/24/2019 at 11:22 PM, ClackerBuzz said:Well said. Only thing I'll add is go cast in ur backyard at night. No house lights and preferably in the complete dark. You will instinctively do two things:
Make short casts. Thumb spool the entire cast.
Not being able to see ur lure/weight means you won't know when it's going to hit the ground. It will force you to thumb brake the entire time. Go crazy and over thumb brake. There is no consequence to stopping the lure mid air with a total spool thumb brake (something even us 'experienced anglers' should do during an aborted cast). You'll have a smart/educated thumb much faster and make shorter casts from muscle memory alone. Help a blind man see.
One thing I forgot to mention, I tend to keep my spools slightly under-filled because it exposes the sides of the spool, which is more comfortable for me to thumb-brake on than having my thumb entirely on the line itself, especially if you're touching braid all day. Instead of thumbing entirely down on the line, I'm mashing the spool to the left to knock it against the bearings or tensioner, depending on your reel design/handedness.
Any one else under-fill their baitcasters?
Wizzlebiz reply :
On 8/24/2019 at 11:22 PM, ClackerBuzz said:Well said. Only thing I'll add is go cast in ur backyard at night. No house lights and preferably in the complete dark. You will instinctively do two things:
Make short casts. Thumb spool the entire cast.
Not being able to see ur lure/weight means you won't know when it's going to hit the ground. It will force you to thumb brake the entire time. Go crazy and over thumb brake. There is no consequence to stopping the lure mid air with a total spool thumb brake (something even us 'experienced anglers' should do during an aborted cast). You'll have a smart/educated thumb much faster and make shorter casts from muscle memory alone. Help a blind man see.
My yard is small. But I see the logic here and will just got to the delta and cast with closed eyes for a week. Same theory just no hitting the shed lmao
islandbass reply :
On 8/25/2019 at 1:38 AM, M0xxie said:One thing I forgot to mention, I tend to keep my spools slightly under-filled because it exposes the sides of the spool, which is more comfortable for me to thumb-brake on than having my thumb entirely on the line itself, especially if you're touching braid all day. Instead of thumbing entirely down on the line, I'm mashing the spool to the left to knock it against the bearings or tensioner, depending on your reel design/handedness.
Any one else under-fill their baitcasters?
You might actually be at optimum line capacity since many spools are considered “full” about 1/8” below the spool’s lip. That is usually considered full and not “up to the brim.” That’s over spooled, lol.
Wizzlebiz reply :
Day 4 now with it. Still have not had to cut out any line. Had minimal backlashes and when I did have them I had them undone and back to fishing within 20 seconds.
Aim is improving alot as well.
I do have a couple of question though. For soft entry into the water at a decent distance what has to be done? I have noticed that following the lure down to the water with the rod tip and pulling back a small bit seems to help. Im sure there is a way to feather the spool as well to help. I am just not exactly sure what I am supposed to be doing.
Also is flipping and pitching done with the same settings on the reel? It just doesnt seem to have much velocity at all. Probably my form lol
The Bassman reply :
You pretty much answered your own question. Feathering is the key word. Again, as in the driving/clutch analogy your thumb will develop a natural ability to ease the lure down. Flipping really doesn't involve any particular settings as you're manually dropping the lure in place. Pitching requires very light settings. I would initially focus on your casting. Looks like you're making good progress.
M0xxie reply :
On 8/25/2019 at 6:18 AM, islandbass said:You might actually be at optimum line capacity sine many spools are considered “full” about 1/8” below the spool’s lip. That is usually considered full and not “up to the brim.” That over spooled, lol.
It usually more like 3/8s exposure, but yeah, definately dont fill to the rim.
Bass Whoopin' reply :
Get yourself some practice plugs from the store or order them online. Eagle claw makes some. They are basically orange weighted plugs that you can tie on so you can practice. They are great for pitching and flipping practice and just overall practice to see how a reel handles certain weighted lures. I have a big yard so i tie them on every once ina while to test out a new reel/rod combo etc. I also practice pitching/flipping into the holes inside my nieces play house. It has the perfect sized windows and holes in the rock wall to practice my accuracy when pitching and flipping
Burke reply :
On 8/23/2019 at 4:25 AM, Bankbeater said:When your casting remember to look behind you to make sure you won’t hit anything when you cast. Nothing kills a spool of line faster than hitting a bush that’s behind you that you didn’t know was there.
Yup, still having that problem.
branches & bushes, It just sneak up on me quickly...
Russ Brown reply :
I dont want to jinx myself, but here it goes. Long story short, long time saltwater, fished for bass last 2 years with my college aged son. Nothing but spinning gear, great success with plastics/jerkbaits and lipless hard baits.
Last fall I bought a black max baitcast combo on clearance at a large box store for 29$, figured what the heck, the reel is worth that. Proceeded to put 30# braid on it, practice a bit, then have modest success with foootball jig and beaver trailer.
Fast forward to a month ago, sale at dicks, bought a lews tournament MB and a dobyns 734 fury rod.
Spooled 14# mono on and the lights went on. Set up following guidelines on here and what an eye opener!!!
This sucker will cast a 1/4oz jig and trailer a Maine mile.
I am also throwing 6" worms wacky style and they fly too.
I have not backlashed once yet, this reel is amazing! I keep loosening the spool tension but the spool still
is behaving well and will stop with no thumb.
I was always careful with the cheap abu set up and it treats me well but with the upgraded rig I am amazed by the casting distance and the no backlashes. Surely I will have my blow up but so far so good.
I learn so much here, what a great site!
Russ
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