Fluoro or Mono for baitcaster setup? 2024
Jake51823 reply :
Hey all, I can’t decide whether to go with fluorocarbon or monofilament for my baitcaster setup. Sensitivity is really important to me, I like to feel everything and be able to set my hook once I feel something. Which leads me more towards fluorocarbon but all of them that I have tried seem to break off or coil very easily. I heard Tatsu was pretty good yet to try it though. Whereas mono I never really had an issue. Any thoughts or suggestions and what do you y’all use? Also never really been a braid guy, not my favorite.
haggard reply :
How about copoly such as Yo Zuri hybrid? Best of both worlds?
WRB reply :
What lb test FC are you trying to use and what brands have you tried?
Tom
Jake51823 reply :
On 6/11/2019 at 3:40 AM, WRB said:What lb test FC are you trying to use and what brands have you tried?
Tom
I’m looking for 10-12 lb test. I’ve used Seaguar invisX and the abrasion one there can’t quite recall the name but both of those didn’t end well. That’s why my next would be Tatsu I guess. I’ve been using sufix elite 8lb on my spinning setup without any problems. Even before I switched to sufix never had problems with Big game or any of those besides they knick and kinda break very easily and the sensitivity isn’t quite to what I want in those lines.
On 6/11/2019 at 3:34 AM, haggard said:How about copoly such as Yo Zuri hybrid? Best of both worlds?
I heard this was decent but also that the sensitivity wasn’t great for this line.
new2BC4bass reply :
I haven't used any, but you might want to check out Sufix Advance.
Mike L reply :
I use Sniper on all combo's except 2.
I use mono to hang pictures on a wall.
Mike
Jake51823 reply :
On 6/11/2019 at 4:00 AM, new2BC4bass said:I haven't used any, but you might want to check out Sufix Advance.
Heard this was a good co poly with great sensitivity. Will have to try it, if that’s the case I could use it on both my spinning and baitcaster and ditch the elite.
WRB reply :
Sufix Advantage and Yo-Zuri Hybrid are both oversize dia line per pound test and offers nothing.
Sunline 10 or 12 lb Sniper is equal to Seagaur FC, Tatsu orcSniper isn't going to handle any differently then the other types of Seaguar FC.
You need to a line conditioner, KVD or TangleFree.
Consider Sunline Deifer Armillo Nylon 13 lb line.
Tom
Jake51823 reply :
On 6/11/2019 at 4:41 AM, WRB said:Sufix Adavantage and Yo-Zuri are oversize dia line per pound test and offers nothing.
Sunline 10 or 12 lb Sniper is equal to Seagaur FC, Tatsu isn't going to handle any differently then the other types of Seaguar FC.
You need to a line conditioner, KVD or TangleFree.
Tom
So are you suggesting I try sunline sniper fluoro? And I’ll check out the conditioner.
WRB reply :
I edited my reply while you were responding. Sniper FC isn't noticeably different from Seagaur FC you have already tried. I treid Tatsu and didn't find it to be more sensitive FC, it has slightly better knot strength and a little less memory per lbs test. You pay a lot for a small performance improvement.
Sunline Armillo offers superior casting and knot strength per lbs test but not as sensitive as FC do to it's lighter specific gravity. It's all trade offs, but nothing is more aggravating then random knot failures.
TangleFree is a Punsher lure product and KVD is available everywhere.
Tom
Fishingmickey reply :
On 6/11/2019 at 4:58 AM, Jake51823 said:So are you suggesting I try sunline sniper fluoro? And I’ll check out the conditioner.
WRB was suggesting this: Consider Sunline Deifer Armillo Nylon 13 lb line.
anderb54 reply :
On 6/11/2019 at 5:16 AM, WRB said:Sunline Armillo offers superior casting and knot strength per lbs test but not as sensitive as FC do to it's lighter specific gravity.
+1 for Armillo. I've really began to like that line.
OP, is there a reason you don't use/like braid? If sensitivity is important, there's no better line for this. It's also drama free when it comes to line management. I pretty much strictly use braid with fluoro or mono leaders, as many of the guys on here do.
Catt reply :
If I gotta walk around with a bottle of line conditioner in my back pocket just to make fluorocarbon manageable & castable I will stick with Big Game!
Brew City Bass reply :
For max sensitivity, braid. If you're in clear water, throw a 5ft fluoro leader on.
813basstard reply :
Nothing makes a bait more natural than old school Berkley Trilene XL 10 or 12lb mono. Not sexy, not cool but I’ve broke more off on 65lb power (like today) pro than the XL.
Try both.
Casting mono vs Fluoro is different btw. Once dialed in, you can ‘get after’ Fluoro and really send it out.
Gorris317 reply :
I use InvisX with L&L and have no issues. The only time I have coils is when I have to peel deep down into the spool because I ended up with a professional overrun. I used Hybrid for a bid but straight flouro is way more sensitive for me. I would just make sure you condition the line and give Sniper a try, I have heard good things about it.
NorthernBasser reply :
You plan on fishing any top water? If so, rule fluoro out.
ike8120 reply :
I have been using a copolymer line and I am very happy with it.
dodgeguy reply :
Sufix Advance if you don't like braid.
Jake51823 reply :
On 6/11/2019 at 5:05 PM, ike8120 said:I have been using a copolymer line and I am very happy with it.
What co poly do you use? I’ve heard good things about yo Zuri and sufix advance.
bwjay reply :
I know you said you don't like braid, but you didn't say why. I'm using 40lb Super8SlickV2 on my Bantam with a 10ft 14lb fluoro leader (Sunline Sniper) and it casts like a dream and doesn't dig into the spool due to the larger line diameter. I spooled up the Bantam using 14lb Sunline Sniper when I got it, and even though I was still breaking in the reel and getting it tuned, I got about 10 casts in, and on that 10th cast (or whatever one it was), I got a backlash so bad I could not get it out. The fluoro was popping off the reel, so coiled up. I spent 15 minutes trying to get it out, and finally just started cutting. I swear I lost almost half of the spool from that. I went home not long after that and spooled up the reel with the Super8Slick and have had a much better time. I've still had a few backlashes as I further tune the reel and get used to it, but I have always succeeded at getting them out within 2-3 mins for the worst ones. The slick line really helps. I use 40lb Sufix 832 on my SLX and have also had no issues getting backlashes out quickly, and it also casts nicely with a long 14lb Sunline Sniper leader as well. Safe to say, I think it will be a very long time before I ever consider trying straight fluoro again. Tying a double uni knot doesn't take too long, and you get better hook sets and sensitivity with braid, not to mention it makes getting backlashes out so much easier. There's no contest for me.
Allen Der reply :
sufix siege is a quality mono. havent tried advance yet
franke1951 reply :
On 6/12/2019 at 3:18 AM, bwjay said:I know you said you don't like braid, but you didn't say why. I'm using 40lb Super8SlickV2 on my Bantam with a 10ft 14lb fluoro leader (Sunline Sniper) and it casts like a dream and doesn't dig into the spool due to the larger line diameter. I spooled up the Bantam using 14lb Sunline Sniper when I got it, and even though I was still breaking in the reel and getting it tuned, I got about 10 casts in, and on that 10th cast (or whatever one it was), I got a backlash so bad I could not get it out. The fluoro was popping off the reel, so coiled up. I spent 15 minutes trying to get it out, and finally just started cutting. I swear I lost almost half of the spool from that. I went home not long after that and spooled up the reel with the Super8Slick and have had a much better time. I've still had a few backlashes as I further tune the reel and get used to it, but I have always succeeded at getting them out within 2-3 mins for the worst ones. The slick line really helps. I use 40lb Sufix 832 on my SLX and have also had no issues getting backlashes out quickly, and it also casts nicely with a long 14lb Sunline Sniper leader as well. Safe to say, I think it will be a very long time before I ever consider trying straight fluoro again. Tying a double uni knot doesn't take too long, and you get better hook sets and sensitivity with braid, not to mention it makes getting backlashes out so much easier. There's no contest for me.
Same experience with fc for me too. Those backlashes were so bad that what’s left of it now , on my reels, is just backing so I don’t have to spoil up 2-300 yards of braid. I will NEVER use anything but braid and have been using it for ten years.
One can can really hammer a big fish that smashes a spook way out there at the end of a long cast.
CrankFate reply :
10 or 15lb Braid.
Allen Der reply :
On 6/12/2019 at 10:53 AM, CrankFate said:10 or 15lb Braid.
On a bait caster is really bad advice
ike8120 reply :
On 6/12/2019 at 1:51 AM, Jake51823 said:What co poly do you use? I’ve heard good things about yo Zuri and sufix advance.
I started to use KastKing Copolymer. Price is very reasonable. From Ebay or Amazon.
Oregon Native reply :
Have gone back to just old Big Game and P-line. LOVE IT.......why did I ever....ever go through the nightmares of fluro for a mainline. Just me....but I haven't lost a fish to a broken line in quite some time now.
Steveo-1969 reply :
I've been using 10# Sufix Advance on a baitcaster for a couple months now and really like it. Sensitivity is important to me too. This is a bottom contact rod and I like to feel every tick thump bump crack rock log leaf FISH! I tried several brands of nylon and it lacked this sensitivity for me. I've been trying lots of different fluorocarbons over the past several years because it has better sensitivity for me but not great abrasion resistance in my shallow rocky river. Even Seaguar Abrazx falls short, at least in 10# test.
So far Sufix Advance in 10# has been very sensitive, handles well and is as abrasion resistant as any fluoro or nylon line I've tried except Gamma Edge fluorocarbon. But at $26/100 yards Gamma Edge is even MORE expensive than Seaguar Tatsu!
Heartland reply :
What rod you going to be using with this setup.
MickD reply :
Do any of the posters who advocate that FC is more sensitive than mono have any data to confirm this belief?
The only hard data comparing the two that I have seen are density comparisons that show mono has a density about the same as water and FC about 50% more. Which confirms that mono is better for most surface lure fishing.
Since there is no objective test (at least I've never seen one) for sensitivity (how does one measure sensitivity?), what attribute of FC would lead one to believe it is more sensitive? Stretch? I think that has been debunked by many tests indicating there is little if any difference.
Just asking. Just trying to learn. I note an appropriate quote above in red.
CrankFate reply :
On 6/12/2019 at 11:35 AM, Allen Der said:On a bait caster is really bad advice
I don’t know why people say this. It’s easier than mono or fluoro.
bwjay reply :
On 6/13/2019 at 7:01 AM, CrankFate said:I don’t know why people say this. It’s easier than mono or fluoro.
It's the thin line diameter that's the concern, I believe. From what I read, thin braid can dig into the spool on baitcasters. By all other accounts though, it should(?) cast better than heavier braid, and you can fit more of it onto the spool. I sized up to 40lb braid and I think it casts just fine, and I've had no issues with it digging into the spool.
BassThumb reply :
On 6/11/2019 at 3:24 PM, NorthernBasser said:You plan on fishing any top water? If so, rule fluoro out.
You can toss topwater on rigs with fluorocarbon if you're not letting baits sit for a half minute between twitches. I do it all the time with faster topwaters. It's not leadcore line. It just sinks a tiny bit and comes right back up to the surface with every twitch.
On 6/11/2019 at 3:29 AM, Jake51823 said:Hey all, I can’t decide whether to go with fluorocarbon or monofilament for my baitcaster setup. Sensitivity is really important to me, I like to feel everything and be able to set my hook once I feel something. Which leads me more towards fluorocarbon but all of them that I have tried seem to break off or coil very easily. I heard Tatsu was pretty good yet to try it though. Whereas mono I never really had an issue. Any thoughts or suggestions and what do you y’all use? Also never really been a braid guy, not my favorite.
Fluorocarbon burns and weakens really easily if the knot is not well-lubed with spit and tightened down slowly. There's no need to jump to Tatsu. Give Invisx another try with some line conditioner on it, and slow down with those knots.
Jake51823 reply :
On 6/13/2019 at 11:36 PM, BassThumb said:You can toss topwater on rigs with fluorocarbon if you're not letting baits sit for a half minute between twitches. I do it all the time with faster topwaters. It's not leadcore line. It just sinks a tiny bit and comes right back up to the surface with every twitch.
Fluorocarbon burns and weakens really easily if the knot is not well-lubed with spit and tightened down slowly. There's no need to jump to Tatsu. Give Invisx another try with some line conditioner on it, and slow down with those knots.
I’ll give it another try, I did like how the feel of it and how you can hardly see it.
Cgrinder reply :
You'll never see "hard data" on sensitivity because sensitivity is subjective.
Fluorocarbon is a tool. I feel it transmits vibration and slack line bites better than nylon monofilament line, so I use it. Have you ever felt a bite while fixing a backlash? It's neat.
Troy85 reply :
I tried going straight FC a couple years back, but I didn't like the line memory. I used a couple different brands, I think the Seaguar I used was the best, but it still had more memory than I liked. I ended up going back to braid, and using a FC leader when the water is clear. I only have 1 rod that still has Seaguar FC on it at the moment, and when its time to change that line out, I'll probably swap it back to braid as well.
CrankFate reply :
On 6/13/2019 at 11:05 PM, bwjay said:It's the thin line diameter that's the concern, I believe. From what I read, thin braid can dig into the spool on baitcasters. By all other accounts though, it should(?) cast better than heavier braid, and you can fit more of it onto the spool. I sized up to 40lb braid and I think it casts just fine, and I've had no issues with it digging into the spool.
It doesn’t dig in. Maybe decades ago, but spectra and dynerma are drastically improved now. It literally never digs in.
bwjay reply :
On 6/14/2019 at 9:38 AM, CrankFate said:It doesn’t dig in. Maybe decades ago, but spectra and dynerma are drastically improved now. It literally never digs in.
Welp, that's the only reason why I thought people recommended against light braid (10-20lbs).
Steveo-1969 reply :
On 6/13/2019 at 5:26 AM, MickD said:Do any of the posters who advocate that FC is more sensitive than mono have any data to confirm this belief?
Nope, no hard data. All I have is what my brain tells me my hands are feeling. I've fished the same rod, reel and jig in the same spot on a river with the same current flow. I know I feel the bottom more distinctly with fluorocarbon line than I do with nylon monofilament, but not as distinctly as I do with braid.
Good enough for me.
WVU-SCPA reply :
Quote from Saving Private Ryan...
"What I mean, sir, is if you was to put me with this here Sniper FC 10# anywhere up to and including 50 yds from Miss Bass... with a clean line of sight... well, pack your bags, boys. War's over." ***edits in bold***
I have the feel and confidence in it, so that's what gets spooled.
Fishingmickey reply :
On 6/13/2019 at 5:26 AM, MickD said:Do any of the posters who advocate that FC is more sensitive than mono have any data to confirm this belief?
The only thing I can add here is that with bottom contact baits where in my opinion and a few others that post here. Sensitivity is most important in bottom contact baits! Fluorocarbon line sinks. Monofilament floats. This difference has a tendency to create more of a bow in the line with mono then fluoro. Not having that bow in the line gives you more direct contact to your bait resulting in better sensitivity. I feel that not having that "bow" also can make for better hook sets especially when you have more line out.
Here is another observation/opinion of mine and I will probably be getting the popcorn eaters out in force with this one. Both fluoro and mono stretch that is pretty much universally agreed upon. My add is this. I think that they stretch differently. Mono is a more uniform stretch being that it stretches sooner as tension is added then fluorocarbon does. I also think mono recovers from being stretched/strained much better then fluoro does.
For what it is worth I use pretty much top quality mono and fluoro line (Seagar Invisx and Tatsu, Berkely XL and Sunline Defier) are currently my favorite flavors.
Let the naysayers and other feel free to chime in! Fire up the popcorn popper.
Fishingmickey
On 6/14/2019 at 9:38 AM, CrankFate said:It doesn’t dig in. Maybe decades ago, but spectra and dynerma are drastically improved now. It literally never digs in.
Horse hockey! I'm not talking decades ago BBBF (before braid before fluoro). I'm talking last weekend.
It does dig in on bait casters. Especially after you have been using straight 30# braid and tried to break it off. Spinning rods I don't have much experience with using braid.
FM
MickD reply :
Regarding floating mono. Mono does not float since its specific gravity is essentially the same as fresh water. Will float in salt. But possibly the fact that it doesn't sink gives FC a "sensitivity" advantage while fishing sinking lures. Good comments. thx
On 6/15/2019 at 12:38 AM, Fishingmickey said:using straight 30# braid
The reason for less of a problem now than earlier is that braids are generally round now, used to be flat, and edge would slide under. Trying cut a full spool of braid off. . . not fun. I don't use braid any lighter than 30#, usually 40. I think it handles better, casts more like 12 pound mono, very little chance (I've not had it happen) of digging in.
Do you know what line you had dig in?
Fishingmickey reply :
On 6/15/2019 at 3:12 AM, MickD said:Regarding floating mono. Mono does not float since its specific gravity is essentially the same as fresh water. Will float in salt. But possibly the fact that it doesn't sink gives FC a "sensitivity" advantage while fishing sinking lures. Good comments. thx
The reason for less of a problem now than earlier is that braids are generally round now, used to be flat, and edge would slide under. Trying cut a full spool of braid off. . . not fun. I don't use braid any lighter than 30#, usually 40. I think it handles better, casts more like 12 pound mono, very little chance (I've not had it happen) of digging in.
Do you know what line you had dig in?
Yes Power pro 30#. I was using straight braid and got hung up in about 17' of water. It was windy and I was getting blown around in my kayak and cranked the drag down and thumbing the spool trying to get it to break. It was dug in the spool pretty good. I ended up pulling off about fifty yards of line before I got past the "dig-in's".
Cgrinder reply :
I want some popcorn.
Mono does seem to recover from stretch better than fluoro. Mono also handles mishaps and abuse better. The pros say to respool fluoro if you backlash, but their job is to sell fluoro so who knows. They've been misleading the public regarding fluoro and stretch for years.
Some fluoro stretches a lot. Some fluoro does not. I really, really like Shooter but $35 a spool does not spark joy. 15 lb. Invizx is probably the best overall fluoro on the market (imo) when you combine performance and price. It is manageable without conditioner and does not stretch as much as the lower lb. tests.
CrankFate reply :
On 6/15/2019 at 12:38 AM, Fishingmickey said:The only thing I can add here is that with bottom contact baits where in my opinion and a few others that post here. Sensitivity is most important in bottom contact baits! Fluorocarbon line sinks. Monofilament floats. This difference has a tendency to create more of a bow in the line with mono then fluoro. Not having that bow in the line gives you more direct contact to your bait resulting in better sensitivity. I feel that not having that "bow" also can make for better hook sets especially when you have more line out.
Here is another observation/opinion of mine and I will probably be getting the popcorn eaters out in force with this one. Both fluoro and mono stretch that is pretty much universally agreed upon. My add is this. I think that they stretch differently. Mono is a more uniform stretch being that it stretches sooner as tension is added then fluorocarbon does. I also think mono recovers from being stretched/strained much better then fluoro does.
For what it is worth I use pretty much top quality mono and fluoro line (Seagar Invisx and Tatsu, Berkely XL and Sunline Defier) are currently my favorite flavors.
Let the naysayers and other feel free to chime in! Fire up the popcorn popper.
Fishingmickey
Horse hockey! I'm not talking decades ago BBBF (before braid before fluoro). I'm talking last weekend.
It does dig in on bait casters. Especially after you have been using straight 30# braid and tried to break it off. Spinning rods I don't have much experience with using braid.
FM
You just have to spool on it tight. I’ve never seen dig in on any reel fishing from 6lb braid to 50lb braid. If you spool it on at 2lbs of pressure or less and fish 5lbs or more drag, it might dig in, but spooled at 4-5lbs pressure it won’t dig in. I wish I could spool up your reel for you and bring you over to the light side of the force.
MickD reply :
On 6/15/2019 at 7:28 AM, CrankFate said:You just have to spool on it tight.
So you spool it on tight, then do a bunch of casts without catching fish. How tightly is it being spooled on? Tightly enough to prevent digging in?
I think you'll find a lot of fishermen, myself included, who have had braid dig in. Not so much now as in the past, but it seems logical that there would be less of a problem with the heavier pound tests than the lighter pound tests.
I'll keep it above 30 on my casting outfits. I see no advantage to going lower, and depending on the line, there can be disadvantages. I may have less trouble than most since I keep my drags lower than most probably do. I don't do a lot of fishing where horsing one out of cover is needed. It also seems logical that the best line for that would be a heavy pound test.
jimmyjoe reply :
On 6/15/2019 at 9:23 PM, MickD said:
I think you'll find a lot of fishermen, myself included, who have had braid dig in.
True. 40 lb. j-braid, 50 lb, 832, 40 lb. performance braid, and a PowerPro that I forgot the poundage.
On 6/14/2019 at 9:38 AM, CrankFate said:It doesn’t dig in. Maybe decades ago, but spectra and dynerma are drastically improved now. It literally never digs in.
Sooooooo wrong! So, so, so wrong! That is literally 180 degrees from reality.
On 6/15/2019 at 7:28 AM, CrankFate said:If you spool it on at 2lbs of pressure or less and fish 5lbs or more drag, it might dig in, but spooled at 4-5lbs pressure it won’t dig in.
Correct .... up to a point. But make six long casts, and how much tension is there on the line? Then you get a biggie on the line, and ... voila! ... the line digs in like a Case backhoe.
And if you think you can put 4-5 lbs. pressure on the retrieve with a lure, I'd like to see that lure! Same with your fingers. I run my line through my fingers on the retrieve, and I'd have to see what would happen if I tried to put 4-5 lb. pressure on the line with my fingers! Bye-bye, flesh!
On 6/15/2019 at 7:28 AM, CrankFate said: I wish I could spool up your reel for you and bring you over to the light side of the force.
The Dark Side has cookies! ???????????????? jj
MickD reply :
On 6/11/2019 at 3:29 AM, Jake51823 said:luorocarbon but all of them that I have tried seem to break off or coil very easily.
Same for me. I've tried a lot of them, not Tatsu, not going to pay that much for a type of line (FC) that in every other brand has resulted in disappointment. It's as you say, fragile on taking out backlashes, a few of which are inevitable since it doesn't cast that well. If not braid just go mono. I have one casting rod still with FC, have avoided disaster so far, but will be changing to braid or mono when the FC gives up.
On 6/11/2019 at 3:29 AM, Jake51823 said:luorocarbon but all of them that I have tried seem to break off or coil very easily.
Same for me. I've tried a lot of them, not Tatsu, not going to pay that much for a type of line (FC) that in every other brand has resulted in disappointment. It's as you say, fragile on taking out backlashes, a few of which are inevitable since it doesn't cast that well. If not braid just go mono. I have one casting rod still with FC, have avoided disaster so far, but will be changing to braid or mono when the FC gives up.
A-Jay reply :
For a good while after being burned repeatedly by FC, I wrote it off.
Fished braid & Mono exclusively for several years, even caught a few.
As improvements were made and more and more experienced, successful anglers reported better results with FC, I gave it another try. Currently my FC use is relegated to rigs that present horizontal moving baits, it's been good.
I prefer it over braid & a leader for those applications.
But that's where it ends for me.
As for FC needing 'extra' care as in line conditioner and when correcting over runs; I use line conditioner on all my lines. I feel it improves casting distance when I need it. And if I was over spinning my reels so much that I needed special line to deal with it - I'd improve my technique rather than complain about the line.
Any line will fail after repeatedly being put through that deal.
A-Jay
MickD reply :
I admit there are a lot of better baitcasters than I am, and if I were more skilled I probably would try FC again, especially where I needed a sinking line.
Last year I thought I'd try spybaits, so I rigged up my 9 foot slow action (very expensive North Forks blank which I won at a gathering) steelhead/salmon rod that is perfect for long casts with light lures. I rigged it with 4 pound FC, (as the experts recommend for spybaits-has to be light so not to affect the action of the spybait) major brand, on a Stradic 4000. Could cast a mile with it, for about half an hour. Line was simply too fragile. So I put on a .006 in diameter braid with a leader (FG knot-rod has micros). Still casts a mile, I don't think the line is impairing the action of the spybait, and it has solved the FC problem. Theoretically it won't sink as fast, but it also won't be broken off so fast.
AJ, any experience to relate that might help me fish spybaits?
A-Jay reply :
On 6/16/2019 at 10:25 PM, MickD said:I admit there are a lot of better baitcasters than I am, and if I were more skilled I probably would try FC again, especially where I needed a sinking line.
Last year I thought I'd try spybaits, so I rigged up my 9 foot slow action (very expensive North Forks blank which I won at a gathering) steelhead/salmon rod that is perfect for long casts with light lures. I rigged it with 4 pound FC, (as the experts recommend for spybaits-has to be light so not to affect the action of the spybait) major brand, on a Stradic 4000. Could cast a mile with it, for about half an hour. Line was simply too fragile. So I put on a .006 in diameter braid with a leader (FG knot-rod has micros). Still casts a mile, I don't think the line is impairing the action of the spybait, and it has solved the FC problem. Theoretically it won't sink as fast, but it also won't be broken off so fast.
AJ, any experience to relate that might help me fish spybaits?
Before the spybait stuff - I'll say that the few times I use FC as a leader, (drop shot, ned rig) I'm never going under 8lb test. Everything less than that is either Big Game or Maxima Ultragreen. And the PB Musky I got this spring while SMB fishing came on 10 FC mainline on casting gear. So my confidence in it went WAY up after that.
And not to hi-jack the thread, but my personal success with spybaits is not really close to what I'd like it to be.
I'm still very much in the 'learning' stage right there myself.
A-Jay
NYWayfarer reply :
On my baitcasters I use, Mono for topwater, Fluoro for bottom baits, braid for gnarly overgrown stuff.
MickD reply :
On 6/16/2019 at 11:04 PM, A-Jay said:I'm still very much in the 'learning' stage right there myself.
Me too. A Lk St Clair guide told me they work best in calm water. A friend had success there counting them down in deep water. I had a follow once. ????
A-Jay reply :
On 6/17/2019 at 3:36 AM, MickD said:Me too. A Lk St Clair guide told me they work best in calm water. A friend had success there counting them down in deep water. I had a follow once. ????
Congrats - I'd take that right about now.
I'm hoping to be on the water enough & in the right conditions to experience the spybait magic I keep hearing about.
My experience so far consists of learning how, where & when to NOT fish them.
So I've got that going for me.
A-Jay
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