For jigs? Just started using them and realized mono wasn;t working for me lol. Had a reel rigged up with 17lb mono and caught my first jig fish and lost a few bites. I don't really fish "heavy" cover, or atleast until summer comes around. Would 15-20lb fluorocarbon be a good line for all around jig fishing? casting/flipping
What about yo zuri hybrid for jigs? what #?
Heavy cover=Heavy line. 65# should be good. Braid all day long
what about if im just casting open water?
Open water you can do a 17lb flouro. You just have to remember that each type of line has its own characteristics. Flouro can be damaged easier than braid, but is stronger than mono. I think braid is a lot easier to cast than mono or flouro. All my rigs are spooled with 65# Spiderwire, and it serves me good whether I fish local canals, or the thick grassy flats in the Everglades. Also, braid is a zero stretch, so hooksets are a +, but it takes some getting used to. The only way your gonna know is to try it. I fish with all baitcasters, maybe you use spinners, so there are some variables to the equation.
i use 15# vicious fluorocarbon for plastics and jigs. i have broke off with it, but it's always at the knot and after catching 3-4 without retying. i don't really fish grass, so it works for me
i like how braid handles (especially on spinning) but i don't stay as connected to the lure as i do with fc.
Unless it is super clear water 65 lb braid is the way to go. I like power pro but any braid you like should be fine.
i have all baitcasters just wanna have atleast 2 rigged for jigs. figured id do one with braid and one with fluoro.
Depends how much you want to spend. You cant cut corners with fluorocarbon. I fish pretty sparse cover and use 14lb Sunline FC Sniper and it gets it done. If you don't want to spend much and like braid then all means go with 50lb braid. You can also add a leader if you feel it is too visible or to boost your confidence.
fluoro-no more than $15 a spool
braid-ill use power pro
On 1/25/2012 at 11:27 AM, Brand0n said:fluoro-no more than $15 a spool
braid-ill use power pro
Then go with power pro.
On 1/25/2012 at 9:36 AM, LgMouthGambler said:Open water you can do a 17lb flouro. You just have to remember that each type of line has its own characteristics. Flouro can be damaged easier than braid, but is stronger than mono. I think braid is a lot easier to cast than mono or flouro. All my rigs are spooled with 65# Spiderwire, and it serves me good whether I fish local canals, or the thick grassy flats in the Everglades. Also, braid is a zero stretch, so hooksets are a +, but it takes some getting used to. The only way your gonna know is to try it. I fish with all baitcasters, maybe you use spinners, so there are some variables to the equation.
There's a lot of misinformation in that post. Let's start with fluoro being easier damaged, it's absolutely untrue. Under normal fishing, fluorocarbon has greater abrasion resistance and is more resilient than braid. Braid has zero abrasion resistance, none whatsoever. I fish fluorocarbon in the deepest, thickiest nasty for a reason: I know that it isn't going to pop like braid from fishing in rock and wood. It's also my preferred line, as well many others will attest, for flipping.
Fluorocarbon is less likely to wind knot and tip wrap than even 65 braid. Braid is notorious, again, even in larger diameter, for digging in on the spool whether from a snag or setting the hook and fighting a fish; I don't care how large a diameter you fish- braid does it and nothing you say will convince me otherwise. I've been around it long enough, and fished it long enough to know the truth. When it digs, it's likely to create more issues for you- backlash, losing a fish, break-offs; they all can, and will, happen over time.
Fluorocarbon has better casting behaviour and gives you more feel under all conditions. Yes braid is very sensitive, but you can't feel anything on a slack line with it. It's also terrible for fishing in the wind; you can't tell what's going on with your bait or your line. The fact that braid floats is also a pain, it bellies on the water, and below, and you lose your direct connection when fishing lighter jigs.
The only time I fish braid is for frogs and I have one reel spooled with braid for certain conditions flipping.
As a general jig line, fluorocarbon is the better choice.
To each their own, I don't bad rap what anyone else is using. For me, it's strictly spinning gear with 10 or 15# braid and I'm not overly fussy on the brand, on sale is ideal.
Fishing in Florida I fish in some very weedy areas 15# cuts thru very well for me. I'm a real non technical guy and lazy, using braid, swivel, short leader and a duolock, much of the time I don't retie any of it for a week or more and I fish everyday. Braid will cut and it happens all the time, in saltwater on coral and barnacles, don't often experience cutting in freshwater. Fishing a senko yesterday on a very windy day there was no problem feeling bites with slack in the braid, no I wasn't using a Loomis. No question wind knots can be an issue, for me the trade off is well worth any line management problems I may with other lines. My windknots in freshwater are not rare, but not common either, saltwater I get them more often.
The best choice is the line that you are most comfortable with.
I have no such mentioned problems except for maybe some tip wrap every once in a while, but thats the nature of the beast. Never broke, I can fish fine in the wind, casts better that flouro or mono, and if you let the line slack too much thats your own fault. Tune your equipment and get used to braid and it will be your best friend, but everyone has their own opinion.On 1/25/2012 at 2:17 PM, Hooligan said:There's a lot of misinformation in that post. Let's start with fluoro being easier damaged, it's absolutely untrue. Under normal fishing, fluorocarbon has greater abrasion resistance and is more resilient than braid. Braid has zero abrasion resistance, none whatsoever. I fish fluorocarbon in the deepest, thickiest nasty for a reason: I know that it isn't going to pop like braid from fishing in rock and wood. It's also my preferred line, as well many others will attest, for flipping.
Fluorocarbon is less likely to wind knot and tip wrap than even 65 braid. Braid is notorious, again, even in larger diameter, for digging in on the spool whether from a snag or setting the hook and fighting a fish; I don't care how large a diameter you fish- braid does it and nothing you say will convince me otherwise. I've been around it long enough, and fished it long enough to know the truth. When it digs, it's likely to create more issues for you- backlash, losing a fish, break-offs; they all can, and will, happen over time.
Fluorocarbon has better casting behaviour and gives you more feel under all conditions. Yes braid is very sensitive, but you can't feel anything on a slack line with it. It's also terrible for fishing in the wind; you can't tell what's going on with your bait or your line. The fact that braid floats is also a pain, it bellies on the water, and below, and you lose your direct connection when fishing lighter jigs.
The only time I fish braid is for frogs and I have one reel spooled with braid for certain conditions flipping.
As a general jig line, fluorocarbon is the better choice.
On 1/25/2012 at 5:29 PM, LgMouthGambler said:if you let the line slack too much thats your own fault. Tune your equipment and get used to braid and it will be your best friend, but everyone has their own opinion.
There are techniques that call for a slack line, not to mention that when a jig is falling it's on a slack line. Fish a senko? Slack line. Fish Ikas? Slack line. Fish tubes for a drop? Slack line. Fish blades on the fall? Slack line. Fish jigging/flutter spoons? Slack line.
I fish equipment that's among the best there is, Steezy would argue that point, but that's another story. tuning your equipment has nothing to do with fishing braid, and the fact of the matter is that all of those things will occur with braid. It's not a matter of opinion, it's fact. Wind bellies braid, again fact, not a perceived instance.
I agree that it's a matter of preference, but one should be truthful in stating the advantages and disadvantages, not one's perceptions. As a case in point: when you're dragging a jig, nothing can beat braid for the sensitivity, no doubt about that. Yet, it is not the perfect line for all situations and all conditions. If that were the case every pro would be throwing braid on every rod under all conditions. Yet, over 90% of the Elite series pros are using fluorocarbon on their jig rods, on their flip sticks, and for TX rigs. Many only use braid on spinning reels. THAT says something in, and of, itself.
You fish different types than me. Im in the swamp here in the Everglades where mono and flouro dont stand a chance against the cover that is in our waters. We dont fish most those baits you mentioned, its mostly frogs, lizards, toads, shads, traps, jerks, spooks, some jigs (mostly swimming through heavy grass), big worms and snakes. I see your point, being from GA, he may have heavy cover, he may not, all I know is that unless you are fishing a clean lake down here, flouro and mono dont cut it. You want to drag a pig out of the grassy flats, you better be at least 50# braid or better.
yeah i have heavy cover when its summer time but my plan is to have a rig with braid and a rig with fluoro
occasionally ill fish somewhere with submerged vegetation
what are some decent fluoro lines under $15 in the 15-20lb range?
Quotewhat are some decent fluoro lines under $15 in the 15-20lb range?
Unless you find Bass Pro Shops XPS 100%, Berkley 100%, or InvisX on sale, you're going to have to spend a little more. Those are three reasonably priced lines that I trust my entry fees on.
Raise your budget to $20 to $25, and your options are better. Otherwise, stick with braid and use a leader if necessary, or try a stronger coplymer line like P-Line CXX.
On 1/25/2012 at 9:19 PM, LgMouthGambler said:You fish different types than me. Im in the swamp here in the Everglades where mono and flouro dont stand a chance against the cover that is in our waters. We dont fish most those baits you mentioned, its mostly frogs, lizards, toads, shads, traps, jerks, spooks, some jigs (mostly swimming through heavy grass), big worms and snakes. I see your point, being from GA, he may have heavy cover, he may not, all I know is that unless you are fishing a clean lake down here, flouro and mono dont cut it. You want to drag a pig out of the grassy flats, you better be at least 50# braid or better.
I disagree. I fish just as heavy cover and and I have no issues whatsoever. And all those baits I mentioned? Those get fished a LOT in FL, man, don't kid yourself. Harris Chain, Okee, Toho... I've fished them all many times, and they're baits I use. Again, braid does not stand up to heavy cover, be it hard or soft, as well as fluorocarbon, it's a fact.
I agree with LgMouthGambler, interesting we fish similar waters and live within 15 minutes of each other, my exception is I use lighter braid and spinning gear.
I see no problems with braid and slack, I have no problem in detecting bites with a slack line, but there really isn't that much slack all that often. The heavier weight as with a bullet weight or jig head, the less slack. I can see having problems with slack using a line that stretches.
Bottom line if you don't like braid, don't use it, but say there are better choices is only a personal preference.
Why is everyone like 65lb braid? The line diameter is equal to a 16lb flruo, its not too heavy for Jigs? I mean I haven't used braided line myself, and was going to buy few spools this season.
berkley triline xl only line i use imo its best for me
65# Spiderwire=12# dia. Thats why I like it. I never have problems with it.On 1/26/2012 at 9:34 PM, Lee.MD said:Why is everyone like 65lb braid? The line diameter is equal to a 16lb flruo, its not too heavy for Jigs? I mean I haven't used braided line myself, and was going to buy few spools this season.
On 1/26/2012 at 9:34 PM, Lee.MD said:Why is everyone like 65lb braid? The line diameter is equal to a 16lb flruo, its not too heavy for Jigs?
I scratch my head on this as well. Ive used BC for 30+ years and the last 9-10 has been with braid 8-20# and really dont need any heavier. Got to look at the structure surroundings of the waters fished I guess. And the size fish, I dont catch big bass so 20# in my waters is more than plenty.
I don't go less than 50/12 on baitcasting gear. It's easier to handle in the bigger diameter.
+1On 1/26/2012 at 10:21 PM, J Francho said:I don't go less than 50/12 on baitcasting gear. It's easier to handle in the bigger diameter.
There's a lot of good stuff in this post.... But, In my personnal opinion it is mostly your preference.. I'm from the northeast therefore I don't have the "creds" most of the anglers on here do, such as a 10lber under my belt... but, I land over a 1000 bass a year none the less... I preffer FC, I can lay all the facts on you but I won't.. It simply feels better to me, I feel more connected to the lure... especially with jigs and soft plastics!!! as for braid, I personnally hate it, it cuts into wood bad, and I fish a lot of lay downs and stump fields... But some guys swear by it... Try them both out thoruoghly and make your own descion.... (ignore spelling errors)
On 1/25/2012 at 2:17 PM, Hooligan said:There's a lot of misinformation in that post. Let's start with fluoro being easier damaged, it's absolutely untrue. Under normal fishing, fluorocarbon has greater abrasion resistance and is more resilient than braid. Braid has zero abrasion resistance, none whatsoever. I fish fluorocarbon in the deepest, thickiest nasty for a reason: I know that it isn't going to pop like braid from fishing in rock and wood. It's also my preferred line, as well many others will attest, for flipping.
I completely agree that fluoro has more abrasion resistance than braided line. The braided line does transmit more vibration but when it comes to rocks or other structure the braid just won't hold up. Braided line excels in grass because it has more breaking strength per diameter than any other line and grass isn't a hard enough substance to actually cause any damage to the line.
But as always, each user has to make up there own mind as to what will work best for them.
broke down and bought some p line floroclear in 20lb. i have it in 12lb and love it. i couldn’t stray away from it
on a side note-i use the palomar knot...how many wraps would i need for 20lb?
I will go with fluoro for jig and plastics. Braid just doesn't have enough give in it and they spit it out much faster. Only in very heavy cover do you need braid.
On 1/26/2012 at 9:34 PM, Lee.MD said:Why is everyone like 65lb braid? The line diameter is equal to a 16lb flruo, its not too heavy for Jigs? I mean I haven't used braided line myself, and was going to buy few spools this season.
50# and larger diameter braid won't dig as bad as a smaller diameter braid.
On 1/25/2012 at 2:17 PM, Hooligan said:Yes braid is very sensitive, but you can't feel anything on a slack line with it. It's also terrible for fishing in the wind; you can't tell what's going on with your bait or your line.
I like braid and I fish braid a lot. Out of everything you said I just about at least some what agree with or can acknowledge as truth. But this is just simply untrue.. in my experience at least.
On 1/27/2012 at 9:53 AM, Brand0n said:broke down and bought some p line floroclear in 20lb. i have it in 12lb and love it. i couldn’t stray away from it
on a side note-i use the palomar knot...how many wraps would i need for 20lb?
P line fluoroclear is a copolymer monofiliment coated In fluorocarbon not actually fluorocarbon itself. Still good line and less stretch than typical mono. I use it myself on a couple bc reels because I feel like it gives me the best of both worlds as an all around general line. As far as loops on your Palomar knot I usually use a normal single wrap with copolymer.. but it being 20lbs test I'd do two.