retainer screws. im getting ready to service a Fuego and would love to know any "secrets" for the easiest way to get that booger out.
What/where screw is that? Not familiar with taking that reel apart, but they're all pretty similar and i do all my own.
part #71
I know exactly what you're referring to. For some reason these tend to be way tight. Make sure you have the right size screw driver with a nice fresh tip. Not only are they tight, they are soft and strip easily. A drop of silicone or break-free helps some times. Bare down and keep the screw driver straight. The only other thing I can think of is that I sometimes wrap the handle of a screwdriver to make it thicker and can get a better grip. Good luck.
There are no secrets, just plan on having to break the reel down to just the set plate (frame).Quoteretainer screws. im getting ready to service a Fuego and would love to know any "secrets" for the easiest way to get that booger out.
Then using the proper sized driver carefully break the screw lose (so that you DON'T damage the head of the screw). Then remove the screw/s, being very careful not to lose the spring that shares the drive shaft retainer.
Good Luck & Tight Lines!
This screw?
(I didn't do this, BTW)
Yeah, its hard to get out for a reason, it has thread lock applied to it. Use a soldering iron with a fine tip to heat it up enough to break the thread lock seal. Too much, and you'll damage the frame. The Mg framed reels seem to take more, like TD-Z and the Fuego.
That screw takes a #1 Phillips head, BTW. Use one with a longer shaft, for power.
JF gave you the exact way to do it. A little heat will make it come right out.
If you don't have a soldering you can tap the screwdriver with a small hammer. Make sure the screwdriver fits perfectly, and tap it ONCE.
I normally wouldn't give out this type of info, but I'm pretty sick of fixing the problem, LOL. Sometimes I can't fix it, and that's a bummer.
QuoteI normally wouldn't give out this type of info, but I'm pretty sick of fixing the problem, LOL. Sometimes I can't fix it, and that's a bummer.
I here ya brother!
QuoteThis screw?(I didn't do this, BTW)
Yeah, its hard to get out for a reason, it has thread lock applied to it. Use a soldering iron with a fine tip to heat it up enough to break the thread lock seal. Too much, and you'll damage the frame. The Mg framed reels seem to take more, like TD-Z and the Fuego.
i first learned of this screw with my Sol and assumed the Fuego would be the same.
I fixed one those once for a buddy.
I used a Dremel and a very thin grinding disc to cut a slot in the screw to fit a standard screwdriver. Took a long time, and a lot of discs.
Tackle Tour has a mainenance and supertuning forum with very helpful and willing people as well. There is a TON of info on there.
QuoteTackle Tour has a mainenance and supertuning forum with very helpful and willing people as well. There is a TON of info on there.
Great article, LOL. Includes using an awful substance to lubricate the reel, and incorrect installation of drag washers.
Just because it looks good on the internet, doesn't make it gospel.
QuoteTackle Tour has a mainenance and supertuning forum with very helpful and willing people as well. There is a TON of info on there.
TT is ok but the place is too "supertune" crazy.
QuoteJF gave you the exact way to do it. A little heat will make it come right out.If you don't have a soldering you can tap the screwdriver with a small hammer. Make sure the screwdriver fits perfectly, and tap it ONCE.
this is what i did. a little heat and a snap-on screw driver.
i just bought a Zillion, i hope its not the same way.
QuoteQuoteTackle Tour has a mainenance and supertuning forum with very helpful and willing people as well. There is a TON of info on there.Great article, LOL. Includes using an awful substance to lubricate the reel, and incorrect installation of drag washers.
Just because it looks good on the internet, doesn't make it gospel.
I'm sorry if you dont like that site but my post was directed to the OP. Every site has BS but there is some useful info on there with some helpful members. I was not dis-crediting Bass Resource or it members; this site is great. I was only offering a fellow member other options to help with current/future issues.
We (BassResource.com) are friends of TT, that was not
J Francho's point. As an experienced servicer, he took issue
with this particular article.
-Kent
QuoteQuoteQuoteTackle Tour has a mainenance and supertuning forum with very helpful and willing people as well. There is a TON of info on there.Great article, LOL. Includes using an awful substance to lubricate the reel, and incorrect installation of drag washers.
Just because it looks good on the internet, doesn't make it gospel.
I'm sorry if you dont like that site but my post was directed to the OP. Every site has BS but there is some useful info on there with some helpful members. I was not dis-crediting Bass Resource or it members; this site is great. I was only offering a fellow member other options to help with current/future issues.
Actually I misunderstood. There;'s an article about supertuning a Daiwa Sol, littered with bad advice, that's all. I think I said I love the TT site further above, LOL. You guys are WAYYYY too defensive - its a fishing site!
Right, not to say all their advice is bad, just check around before diving in.
QuoteI fixed one those once for a buddy.I used a Dremel and a very thin grinding disc to cut a slot in the screw to fit a standard screwdriver. Took a long time, and a lot of discs.
Do you remember which disk, and did you end up sacrificing the retaining collar? I usually end up destroying that part int he process.
John, which part is the retaining collar? I did get into the nylon piece that raises the yoke. Had to order a new one of those. I nicked the part that the screw holds down, but a little bit of file work fixed that. I didn't damage anything else.
For the disc; I still have a little plastic bottle about half full of discs. I'm fairly sure it has a part number on it. I'll PM it to you later.
John, I'll get that reel back for servicing sometime soon. When I open up I'll try to remember to take a pic. The slot does not have to be cut very deep. I'd guestimate it at no more than 1/64". But it went all the way across the surface of the head of the screw.
The shallow cut, all the way across, gave enough bite for a standard driver that I put the original screw back in. I told the guy to stop using it and bring it back if anything started sounding or feeling funny. It hasn't come back yet.
When I ordered parts, I got several of those pesky screws.
The plate the screw holds down is what I meant. I end up scrapping that, and ordering a new one, if I really can't get that bearing clean without removing it, i.e. a VERY dirty reel. The reel I posted was a Daiwa TD-Z BBS, and the bearing was fine, cleaned in place.
Just curious if you had a special cutting wheel you used, but its probably the same thin one I have.
Thanks!
QuoteThere are no secrets, just plan on having to break the reel down to just the set plate (frame).Quoteretainer screws. im getting ready to service a Fuego and would love to know any "secrets" for the easiest way to get that booger out.Then using the proper sized driver carefully break the screw lose (so that you DON'T damage the head of the screw). Then remove the screw/s, being very careful not to lose the spring that shares the drive shaft retainer.
Good Luck & Tight Lines!
Wow, i thought I was only one that ran into this problem. For me it was with my TD-X 103. I used the above to remove the screw.
Half of the battle with small screws is having well made screwdrivers. These are about the best...http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26199-Slotted-Phillips-Screwdriver/dp/B000NZ5QG0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1299289337&sr=1-1-catcorr
I love my Wiha tools, but for that particular screw, I have an old, el cheapo Stanley long shaft #1 Phillips head that gets the job done. The issue with that screw is that it's softer than most screw driver tips.