Citica 201G6 Reassembly Question 2025

Cgrinder reply :

I just put my Citica 201G6 back together and two things seem off.

1) Small amount of back and forth play in the handle, even with the drag locked down. This leads me to number two.

2) With the drag locked down, line comes out a little too easily. I know the Citica doesn't have strong drag, but I don't think I should be able to pull line out with it clicked down all the way.

I followed the schematic and didn't have any major catastrophes in the process. Does anyone have any ideas before I take it apart again?

MarkH024 reply :

Why did you diassemble and what did you do while apart?

iabass8 reply :

you most likely put the spacers on in correctly that are below the drag star on the shaft. there should be 2 spacers that you put on first that should be in the shape of an oval ( ) followed by a spacer, then the drag. if you put these on incorrectly, when tightening down the drag, the drag won't tigten down as far as it should. there should be a gap on the elongated sides in between the 2 spacers. i know after cleaning too many reels over the winter and the course of the season, i do this from time to time as well.

the circled red spacers are what i'm talking about. also make sure you have a very minimal amount of grease on the drag washers under the handle side plate. too much will cause it to slip.

Cgrinder reply :

On 8/26/2013 at 5:56 AM, MarkH024 said:
Why did you diassemble and what did you do while apart?

The spool wouldn't come out so I took the tension knob off. This released the spool but i had to take the drag star off to get it back on.

Cgrinder reply :

On 8/26/2013 at 6:24 AM, iabass8 said:
you most likely put the spacers on in correctly that are below the drag star on the shaft. there should be 2 spacers that you put on first that should be in the shape of an oval ( ) followed by a spacer, then the drag. if you put these on incorrectly, when tightening down the drag, the drag won't tigten down as far as it should. there should be a gap on the elongated sides in between the 2 spacers. i know after cleaning too many reels over the winter and the course of the season, i do this from time to time as well.

You may be on to something. I didn't take the spacers off but maybe they got shifted around.

Cgrinder reply :

Update. Took the handle off again and put it back together as described. Drag still lets line out too easily. How tight does the nut after the spacers have to be?

Delaware Valley Tackle reply :

The nut is tightened and loosened by turning the drag star. The drag star may not be seated correctly. take the handle, drag star and spring back off. Use the drag star to tighten the drag nut down. Then replace the spring and drag star making sure star is square with the flat sides of crank shaft and it is fully seated. Hold it down all the way while installing the handle and hold it all in place while attaching the handle with the nut.

Cgrinder reply :

The drag star was fully seated. However, there seems to be some play in the drag star with the handle on. Is it possible that I have unreasonable expectations for the drag on the Citicia G?

iabass8 reply :

if it is a very minimal amount of play that isn't unheard of and is most likely normal. A few of my E curados have very small amounts of play and i don't pay any mind to it and never notice it. they are smooth as butter.

Cgrinder reply :

Well that's good regarding the play. However, I have another question. I took the spacers out and a large amount of metal shavings came out with them. Like, a lot. There was also a fair amount of metal shavings on the gear shaft when I took the drag star off. Is this normal? It seems like a lot of damage for a "new" reel that I've used for not even two weeks.

And of course, the locked down drag still feels like it is letting out line too easily.

.RM. reply :

On 8/26/2013 at 11:16 AM, Cgrinder said:

Well that's good regarding the play. However, I have another question. I took the spacers out and a large amount of metal shavings came out with them. Like, a lot. There was also a fair amount of metal shavings on the gear shaft when I took the drag star off. Is this normal? It seems like a lot of damage for a "new" reel that I've used for not even two weeks.

And of course, the locked down drag still feels like it is letting out line too easily.

Nope any kind of metal shavings is NOT normal any time.

There are no shims under the drag star they are called drag spring washers....

Most likely they were originaly installed like so..)( this installation will cause the bottom drag washers edge to dig into the upper edge of the one-way (AR) bearing pack. This will cause metal shavings to be peeled and distrubuted around the crank shaft, and cause a slight play. Proper way to install drag spring washers is ().......

If I were you I would not do another thing to the reel until you get the reel schematic out and look at how the parts are supposed to be installed, or send it to a pro and have it worked properly....

FYI the reel has max drags of 11lb.............are U using braid?

Tight Lines!

Cgrinder reply :

Thanks for the help. Certainly learning a lot!

I do have braid backed with a good fifty yards of mono.

I have a chronarch with 11 lbs max drag as well but I can't pull out any line on lockdown. That's what is making me suspicious.

In regards to the spring washers, they may be flattened. Reel was a display and I seem to remember the drag being sort of tight. It's also probable that they were originally installed )(, which would cause the shavings as described and maybe flatten them prematurely. I'm going do see about bending them. Shimano will send me two new ones for $3.78 if this fixes it.

Again, thanks for the good help all around.

.RM. reply :

On 8/27/2013 at 1:00 AM, Cgrinder said:

Thanks for the help. Certainly learning a lot!

I do have braid backed with a good fifty yards of mono.

I have a chronarch with 11 lbs max drag as well but I can't pull out any line on lockdown. That's what is making me suspicious.

In regards to the spring washers, they may be flattened. Reel was a display and I seem to remember the drag being sort of tight. It's also probable that they were originally installed )(, which would cause the shavings as described and maybe flatten them prematurely. I'm going do see about bending them. Shimano will send me two new ones for $3.78 if this fixes it.

Again, thanks for the good help all around.

Actually there is no max lockdown (direct drive) on any Shimano reel (that I know of), at least not since their 1972 dedicated flipping reel "Brush Buster 10"

In my 28yrs servicing, I have never seen a set of drag spring washer completly flattened.

Micky Mouse Fix: You can add some spring to them by mounting the spring into a vise and tapping lightly with a small hammer until you get a slight cupping, then mount in the proper orientation ()....

Proper/Best Fix: Get new ones!

I would also be checking the top of the AR bearing to make sure it isn't damaged from gouging...

Good Luck & Tight Lines!

J Francho reply :

Metal shavings? Spring washer installed incorrectly? I doubt it's that. I'll bet the threads on either the four sided drag tension nut, or the crankshaft itself are stripped. This is a lefty reel after all, and I've seen many a rookie strip the reverse threads.

Cgrinder reply :

I'll check the AR bearing. If it is damaged, I'm going to take it back or send it in.

Side note: could overgreased drag also be a contributor?

J Francho reply :

Quote

Side note: could overgreased drag also be a contributor?

To much drag grease will just get squeezed out when you put pressure on the drag washers. Drag washers contaminated with oil, or the wrong greas, and even dirt and water is another story.

Cgrinder reply :

Ok, checked the teeth and the drag nut. All good. No visible stripping. Spring washers seem pretty flat, but there's still a little space between them.

I'm going to go ahead and say there was an issue with the reel before I broke it down, since I only messed with the drag spacers and washers after it was suggested to check them. I flipped the spacer around; tried it with gold side up and gold side down. Gold side down seemed better, but the internet seems to recommend gold side up.

I'm only $47 into this reel and I can still take it back. It's my current frog reel, so I don't want it letting out line. This is what I get for buying display models from a store that doesn't keep good tabs on their fishing gear.

Good excuse to buy a Chronarch or Super Duty, says the Bait Monkey.

I appreciate the help guys. This has been a fun one.

J Francho reply :

I don't think you need too much sophistication in a frog reel - metal frame, strong, fast gears, solid drag. A Citica with a Smooth Drags Carbontex upgrade would be a great frog reel. take it back, get a replacement, and think about running a dry Carbontex setup. It's a very inexpensive upgrade, around $8.

.RM. reply :

On 8/27/2013 at 1:21 AM, Cgrinder said:

I'll check the AR bearing. If it is damaged, I'm going to take it back or send it in.

Side note: could overgreased drag also be a contributor?

Nope the (BNT3241) drags stay dry no grease should be on those pads....

.RM. reply :

On 8/27/2013 at 2:40 AM, Cgrinder said:

Ok, checked the teeth and the drag nut. All good. No visible stripping. Spring washers seem pretty flat, but there's still a little space between them.

I'm going to go ahead and say there was an issue with the reel before I broke it down, since I only messed with the drag spacers and washers after it was suggested to check them. I flipped the spacer around; tried it with gold side up and gold side down. Gold side down seemed better, but the internet seems to recommend gold side up.

That spacer is teflon coated (reason for the gray side)..

Gray side up it helps keep the nut from free turning and loseing adjustment....

J Francho reply :

There's no issue with greasing a Dartanium Drag washer. They come greased with Shimano Star Grease from the factory. No grease, and they chatter. Not good for fighting big fish. They last longer too, otherwise they wear out. All it takes is a vapor thin coat of Star Drag Grease or Cal's Drag Grease.

.RM. reply :

On 8/27/2013 at 9:39 PM, J Francho said:
There's no issue with greasing a Dartanium Drag washer. They come greased with Shimano Star Grease from the factory.

No issue's other than being lose feeling like the posters issue.

I just opened 3 boxs of Citica 200G6' for a client, broke into the reels and NO grease on the pads!

J Francho reply :

The early ones I saw without grease (Curado Gs) had a a ton of debris from the drag washer inside the main gear and metal, keyed washer. After cleaning and grease, I get about 9 lbs. max drag - plenty for bass, snook, redfish, even schoolie stipers. So, either they changed their manu process, or someone snuck in there, and added grease, lol.

BTW, water is the kiss of death to the Dartanium washers, one of the main reasons I recommend an upgrade to Carbontex. Water makes the stock washers swell, and weaken, and can cause slipping and/or binding issues. Worst case, I've seen a few cracks, and torn up Dartanium washers, presumably from over tightening the drag star to overcome the slipping issue. Light grease mitigates the issue. Upgrading to Carbontex (dry or greased) eliminates the issue.

Delaware Valley Tackle reply :

Carbontex is the real deal and a true upgrade over that "Dartanium" material.

J Francho reply :

I only share this stuff from experience, not to try and out "interwebz" someone. Sharing experience is what this place is about.

.RM. reply :

On 8/28/2013 at 12:47 AM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:
Carbontex is the real deal and a true upgrade over that "Dartanium" material.

No arguments there.....

I only shared what I FOUND from factory NIB reels..... :Victory:

LeroyB reply :

I have 3 Cu 200 Curados. One of them had a drag that jerked very badly when you pulled line out to adjust it. As soon as I put Any tension on it , it jerked as I pulled line out. I had already had a local repair shop replace drag washers with dartanium. It didn't help. I replaced with Carbontex and it now works great.

LeroyB reply :

5047

Citica 201G6 Reassembly Question 2025

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