Hey guys! I’m thinking of buying some line too spool my ecooda black hawk, and I was wondering what type of line will help my lure drop deeper/faster with that good shimmer you normally get while it descends. Thank you!
Fluorocarbon with a ballvearing swivel 16 inches up the line connected to braid
Good answer Croak. The swivel accomplishes two things. It makes connecting the two lines a breeze and adds just a touch of weight not to mention doing what a swivel is intended to do. Even using straight mono, or fluoro it's a good idea.
Yes with any line it is, I'm just a braid guy on my spinning rods.
On 1/22/2018 at 8:48 AM, CroakHunter said:Fluorocarbon with a ballvearing swivel 16 inches up the line connected to braid
Your clutch thanks man! What pound test should I use?
On 1/22/2018 at 9:47 AM, Jkt23113 said:Your clutch thanks man! What pound test should I use?
What's your setup?
On 1/22/2018 at 10:16 AM, CroakHunter said:What's your setup?
6’6 medium ugly stick with 3000 ebh reel
15-20lb braid
8-12lb fluorocarbon
Both are dependent on cover present
Been doing it for years ????
How is the hookup percentage with that hook setup Catt?
Last year I started using different line for my Fluke/Caffeine Shad set up. Had been a braid+leader guy for years. This may surprise some, but I started using a mainline only of Sunline Flippin Fluorocarbon, 16 lb test.
It has a mixture of clear and bright green to see/detect bites above water. Very helpful as most of the bites I get with flukes are on the fall. Every 30 inches of line is clear Fluorocarbon. I tie the lure at the very end of the clear line for 30 inches of extra invisibility under water.
No more tying leaders or swivels, all Fluorocarbon gives you a uniform sink rate (no more “hockey stick shaped” slack to take up before setting the hook) and I can see the line above water, but the fish don’t see it below.
My catch rate was as high as ever, maybe higher and better hook up percentage by seeing bites and reacting better. And no more failed Albright Knots!!
http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Sunline_Flippin_FC_Fluorocarbon_Line_200_yd/descpage-FC.html
On 1/22/2018 at 8:48 AM, CroakHunter said:Fluorocarbon with a ballvearing swivel 16 inches up the line connected to braid
That's an interesting choice...do you mind explaining why?
...I expect to learn something cool here...
6 or 8lb diameter braid for me. Best action, best hookset and i have yet to see a difference in getting hits when compared to flouro.
I use 12lb sniper.
On spinning gear for weightless senkos I use 8lb tatsu or 7lb sniper. On casting gear I use 12lb tatsu or sniper.
On 1/23/2018 at 9:29 AM, Further North said:That's an interesting choice...do you mind explaining why?
...I expect to learn something cool here...
#1. Is he said that he wanted a good sink rate, being that fc is more dense than mono Or copoly, that was my first choice.
#2. The swivel aids in the sinking, gives it a really nice action, eliminates a braid to leader knot (still have 2 terminal knots), and does what it was designed for, keeping line twist minimized. Flukes and other weightless plastics have a tendency to roll so that's why I like the swivel and braid. Both a resistant to line twist.
I use a spinning rod 8 to 10 pound mono with a swivel.Use a faster action rod to help with line stretch.
I may go against the grain a little here but I use only spinning gear for weightless plastics and I use straight Mono (pick your favorite brand) in 6, 8 or 10lb test. I consider weightless plastics a "Finesse" technique and since I only use Yamamoto plastics, I want them to be able to act 100% natural. IMHO that's where they separate themselves from other plastics. Any factor you add in the equation, swivel, leaders, braid, etc., affects the action of the bait. I want to be able to control the action of the bait and to me that is best done by hook size and placement. I don't want to have to factor in floating line, sinking line, extra knots, clips, line stretch differences, etc. I want as pure a presentation as possible. With good gear, you really up your ability to downsize your line. Not on purpose but last year I caught a 14lb snakehead on 6lb test mono and a spinning outfit in heavy weeds. I regularly catch 4lb hard fighting smallmouth on 6lb test mono. I very, very, very, rarely break off and it's usually because I was lazy and didn't retie when I should have or a toothy fish gets me. I will commonly clip off my bait and feed out a couple casts worth of line when we are in dead water or moving, to get line twist out. I also use a lot of backing and change out my line regularly. But that's just me....
For a good $8.00 experiment : Try #8lb. Spiderwire Ultimate Mono using a small #30lb. Spro swivel 18" or so up from the Fluke with 4/0 Gamakatsu EWG hook . You will get a nice fall rate of mono but lower stretch of FC for setting a larger single hook ... Ultimate Mono is a mono line that responds much like FC but handles like mono plus is very thin for each line rating .
On 1/23/2018 at 7:39 PM, TOXIC said:I may go against the grain a little here but I use only spinning gear for weightless plastics and I use straight Mono (pick your favorite brand) in 6, 8 or 10lb test. I consider weightless plastics a "Finesse" technique and since I only use Yamamoto plastics, I want them to be able to act 100% natural. IMHO that's where they separate themselves from other plastics. Any factor you add in the equation, swivel, leaders, braid, etc., affects the action of the bait. I want to be able to control the action of the bait and to me that is best done by hook size and placement. I don't want to have to factor in floating line, sinking line, extra knots, clips, line stretch differences, etc. I want as pure a presentation as possible. With good gear, you really up your ability to downsize your line. Not on purpose but last year I caught a 14lb snakehead on 6lb test mono and a spinning outfit in heavy weeds. I regularly catch 4lb hard fighting smallmouth on 6lb test mono. I very, very, very, rarely break off and it's usually because I was lazy and didn't retie when I should have or a toothy fish gets me. I will commonly clip off my bait and feed out a couple casts worth of line when we are in dead water or moving, to get line twist out. I also use a lot of backing and change out my line regularly. But that's just me....
^^^^^agree 100%^^^^^
On 1/22/2018 at 9:37 PM, Comfortably Numb said:How is the hookup percentage with that hook setup Catt?
Don't know I missed ya! ????
I generally throw this setup during post spawn around timber/brush.
Hookup percentage is on par with most Wacky Rigs, the rate of fall is faster but when the swivel hits bottom the worm slows down.
I prefer 10lb straight braid. No leaders, no swivels, no stretchy mono or FC lines. First, lighter braid allows me to cast farther. Having a swivel 18 inches up the line is much more difficult to cast. If you rig your bait straight, it shouldn't spin. I like a floating braid because with weightless baits, bites can be hard to detect even with sensitive line. Braid floating on the surface will visibly twitch when a fish picks up your bait. A lot of my strikes happen and my first indication is that line "twitching" The floating line, especially light braid, has almost no effect on the rate of fall of your bait. Allowing a bait to free fall on a slack line also means it can be more difficult to get a good hook set especially when using a line that stretches. I get better hook sets using braid.
As you can see, there is more than one way to skin a cat. Try one or all of the above suggestions and see which one suits you and the way you fish best.
All of my weightless plastics are thrown with a 6'6" MF spinning rod on straight 30lb Sufix 832 braid diameter of 8lb mono. Haven't tried a swivel yet. May have to see if it's effective enough to worry about in the future.
I throw them on a casting rod with 10 lb. Flouro. The swivel works well. Also if you need it to sink faster just use a nail weight .
I throw flukes on a baitcaster 15 pound floro I throw lighter soft plastics on spinning rod # 15 braid to #10 leader.
I like to use a 1/64 oz to a 1/32 oz bullet nose weight above my swivel thats 40" above fluke (Carolina rig) for a couple reasons..
1. Its always windy where I fish and the wind pulls my line too much and keeps my fluke on top
2. If you watch when you cast, your bullet weight slides up your line 10-15' above fluke, which allows the weight to contact bottom while there still 10-15' of line that is 8'+ above bottom yet (14'ish water). And that last 8' of fall is now all but weightless, as desired, but is now in the kill zone that much quicker.
3. Cast farther(its a little different since you are starting a cast with 40" of line out, but you get used to it quickly)
4. It works.
5. #4 is enough.
On 1/22/2018 at 8:40 AM, Jkt23113 said:Hey guys! I’m thinking of buying some line too spool my ecooda black hawk, and I was wondering what type of line will help my lure drop deeper/faster with that good shimmer you normally get while it descends. Thank you!
Lots of opinions on what to use.....what water clarity are you fishing? Water clarity dictates what line I use. I fish a lot of super clear water so in that case I stay away from braid.
Give some thought to using mono, and insert a nail weight. Varying the wegh5 and where you insert it will change the fall.
I use spinning tackle and 15lb braid, flouro leader only in clearer water. Most of the water i fish is fairly muddy so straight braid works fine.
I use 40lb braid with 12-15 flouro leader
I use 14# Flouro for all weightless presentations on a bc.
Mike