I decided to make this thread because I recently bought the new Lund Renegade. While doing so, I had a hard time finding much information about it other than whats on Lund's website since it just came out not too long ago. By making this, I figured you guys can ask me questions about it if you have any and I can try to help you out the best I can. So far I am very pleased with the boat. Here are the details about mine:
It is the 1875 Bass Model
Gray in Color
I had the Mercury 115 Pro XS FS put on it
I also upgraded the trolling motor from a Minn Kota Edge 45 to a Fortrex 80
I have not gotten any electronics yet, it still has the Hook 3 that came with it
Still deciding on what shallow water anchor to go with.
Remember, I am definitely not a boat expert, just trying to help out a little!
Great choice. I like the layout of the Lund. I think I would choose that one too if I were shopping for an 18ft mod v boat. Enjoy it.
I just paid a visit to a marina yesterday to look over one...very tempted to pull the trigger on it.
On 10/11/2017 at 11:42 PM, Attila said:I just paid a visit to a marina yesterday to look over one...very tempted to pull the trigger on it.
I have been very happy with mine so far! Is it a new boat or used? If you decide to buy it, and have the option, I would try to have a bigger trolling motor thrown in with the purchase. Mine was going to come with the Edge 45 on the bow, and I think that is far to little power considering my old 14 ft Lowe had a 36lb thrust trolling motor and would struggle in windy conditions. I asked the dealer to switch it to a fortrex 80 and he agreed, and that moves the boat around great.
On 10/12/2017 at 12:17 AM, RenegadeBassin said:I have been very happy with mine so far! Is it a new boat or used? If you decide to buy it, and have the option, I would try to have a bigger trolling motor thrown in with the purchase. Mine was going to come with the Edge 45 on the bow, and I think that is far to little power considering my old 14 ft Lowe had a 36lb thrust trolling motor and would struggle in windy conditions. I asked the dealer to switch it to a fortrex 80 and he agreed, and that moves the boat around great.
It's going to be a used one, and I'm definitely going with a bigger trolling motor; more than likely the Terrova 112. Then I'll also be putting in a pair of HELIX 9 CHIRP DI GPS G2N so that I can network the two and take advantage of the I-Pilot Link feature.
Great looking boat and there are a few reviews on youtube.....comgrats
On 10/12/2017 at 12:36 AM, Attila said:
It's going to be a used one, and I'm definitely going with a bigger trolling motor; more than likely the Terrova 112. Then I'll also be putting in a pair of HELIX 9 CHIRP DI GPS G2N so that I can network the two and take advantage of the I-Pilot Link feature.
Sounds like one hell of a boat!
On 10/12/2017 at 12:54 AM, RenegadeBassin said:Sounds like one hell of a boat!
It's going to be perfect for the style of fishing that I do, which includes a lot of shallow water fishing in non turbulent waters. I'm hoping to fish some tournaments in the not too distant future and this setup will go a long way in helping me make the most of the waters that I fish.
That and the fact that it doesn't cost an arm and a leg, especially in gas when it comes to towing and running it, make it very appealing.
On 10/12/2017 at 1:27 AM, Attila said:It's going to be perfect for the style of fishing that I do, which includes a lot of shallow water fishing in non turbulent waters. I'm hoping to fish some tournaments in the not too distant future and this setup will go a long way in helping me make the most of the waters that I fish.
That and the fact that it doesn't cost an arm and a leg, especially in gas when it comes to towing and running it, make it very appealing.
That was the deciding factor for me when I bought it. If I spent less money on the boat itself I could use the money saved for other things like nice electronics etc.
On 10/11/2017 at 11:42 PM, Attila said:I just paid a visit to a marina yesterday to look over one...very tempted to pull the trigger on it.
DO IT ~ !
A-Jay
Great looking boat. What was your cost..out the door with your upgrades?
On 10/12/2017 at 1:52 AM, Choporoz said:Great looking boat. What was your cost..out the door with your upgrades?
I got an end of the season deal on it, the dealer had had it for a while. I ended up paying a little north of 23.
I hadn't looked at the Renegades at all because they have the Lund name plate and that spells out of my price range.
I looked at the 1775 and the 1875 and they aren't priced bad at all. I don't think my "financial manager" will push the budget that far, but I'm impressed. The only I think I'd change is put the rod locker at the center. Other than that I like it a lot.
There are lots of Mod V boats with a central rod locker. Not having it in the middle is one of the things that most appeals to me about the Lund. Good to have choices, so everyone can get closer to their ideal layout.
On 10/12/2017 at 1:39 AM, A-Jay said:
DO IT ~ !
A-Jay
Is that your unbiased opinion?
Cool boat, enjoy it!
...and it's really cool you started a topic about it for other folks.
I wish there was a Lund dealer closer to me than 183 miles. Nice boat. Well, it's not that far to Pennsylvania, is it?
On 10/12/2017 at 8:22 AM, Johnbt said:I wish there was a Lund dealer closer to me than 183 miles. Nice boat. Well, it's not that far to Pennsylvania, is it?
I’m lucky enough to have one about 5 minutes from my house, makes things pretty easy for me. Today I brought the boat there to see what my options would be for mounting a talon and was home again a half hour later!
On 10/12/2017 at 7:51 AM, Attila said:
Is that your unbiased opinion?
You know it is
A-Jay
On 10/12/2017 at 2:05 AM, 12poundbass said:I hadn't looked at the Renegades at all because they have the Lund name plate and that spells out of my price range.
I looked at the 1775 and the 1875 and they aren't priced bad at all. I don't think my "financial manager" will push the budget that far, but I'm impressed. The only I think I'd change is put the rod locker at the center. Other than that I like it a lot.
They are priced very competitively with the other mod v tins.
I'm thinking about buying my first graph for the lund today which would be the humminbird helix 10 g2n with mega imaging. Does anyone know if humminbird has any sales throughout the year? Or do you think the price of it now will be the best i'll get? ($1699)
On 10/12/2017 at 7:19 PM, RenegadeBassin said:I'm thinking about buying my first graph for the lund today which would be the humminbird helix 10 g2n with mega imaging. Does anyone know if humminbird has any sales throughout the year? Or do you think the price of it now will be the best i'll get? ($1699)
Black Friday. Also check pricing with Universalmania, BBG marine, BOE marine. I'm guessing you'll find better pricing with those stores over the big box stores.
On 10/12/2017 at 10:25 AM, slonezp said:They are priced very competitively with the other mod v tins.
From what I've been reading the Ranger tins are very popular, and I'm guessing the the Renegades are going to be some good competition for the Ranger boats. It looks like they're priced pretty close to the same.
On 10/12/2017 at 8:11 PM, 12poundbass said:Black Friday. Also check pricing with Universalmania, BBG marine, BOE marine. I'm guessing you'll find better pricing with those stores over the big box stores.
So maybe I'll buy my console unit now, then my bow unit and trolling motor transducer on black friday...I just want to be able to try one out before there's ice on the lakes!
On 10/12/2017 at 8:49 PM, 12poundbass said:From what I've been reading the Ranger tins are very popular, and I'm guessing the the Renegades are going to be some good competition for the Ranger boats. It looks like they're priced pretty close to the same.
If you are thinking of a Ranger, do your research. There are reported structural issues on the RT 188 line,
On 10/14/2017 at 9:25 PM, slonezp said:If you are thinking of a Ranger, do your research. There are reported structural issues on the RT 188 line,
I've been reading that at your other online hang out. That's too bad, because they are really nice boats.
On 10/12/2017 at 9:24 AM, RenegadeBassin said:I’m lucky enough to have one about 5 minutes from my house, makes things pretty easy for me. Today I brought the boat there to see what my options would be for mounting a talon and was home again a half hour later!
The proximity to a services/sales location was one of the deciding factors when I bought a boat two years ago too.
I haven't seen any Renegades out there yet in Minnesota and a lot of people have Lunds here. I like the fact that they can put a 90 hp on the 1775 model whereas most comparable size aluminum boats can only handle a 75.
On 10/15/2017 at 7:27 AM, gimruis said:
The proximity to a services/sales location was one of the deciding factors when I bought a boat two years ago too.
I haven't seen any Renegades out there yet in Minnesota and a lot of people have Lunds here. I like the fact that they can put a 90 hp on the 1775 model whereas most comparable size aluminum boats can only handle a 75.
Yeah that is nice. I have been pleasantly surprised by my 115 on the 1875. I wasn’t expecting a speed demon when I bought this boat but today on my way back to the boat launch a speedometer app on my phone that uses gps said I topped out at 52 mph. (I don’t have a gps on the console yet that tells me my speed.) Thats pretty good for an almost 19’ boat with a 115 I think. I had all my gear that I would normally fish with in the boat, and am still running the aluminum propellor that came on the outboard which is the mercury spit fire, 19p. I am interested to see what performance gains I would make by getting the spitfire x7, a stainless prop with the vent holes.
Hey guys, I recently bought a helix 10 mega si g2n unit to put in the console of my boat and it was too big, so I ram mounted it to the side which actually worked out fine. However, now I still have the big ugly plastic spot on my console with just a lowrance hook 3 in it. (came with the boat) I am now planning to pick up a helix 7 g2n with just gps and sonar, that way I can be watching my map on one unit and have SI/sonar/DI on my 10. I would consider leaving the hook 3 there to save money but I think I can render it pretty useless due to the fact that its transducer is still mounted on the transom directly next to my new transducer, so I think it will cause interference and I would have to have it turned off all the time anyway.
What do I need to get in order for this setup to work? Just an ethernet cable to connect the two units? I plan on getting another helix for my bow over the winter as well, and that will have a trolling motor transducer but I will want to have it networked with my other two. Any advice?
On 11/1/2017 at 8:53 PM, RenegadeBassin said:Hello again everyone! I recently bought a helix 10 mega si g2n unit to put in the console of my boat and it was too big, so I ram mounted it to the side which actually worked out fine. However, now I still have the big ugly plastic spot on my console with just a lowrance hook 3 in it. (came with the boat) I am now planning to pick up a helix 7 g2n with just gps and sonar, that way I can be watching my map on one unit and have SI/sonar/DI on my 10. I would consider leaving the hook 3 there to save money but I think I can render it pretty useless due to the fact that its transducer is still mounted on the transom directly next to my new transducer, so I think it will cause interference and I would have to have it turned off all the time anyway.
What do I need to get in order for this setup to work? Just an ethernet cable to connect the two units? I plan on getting another helix for my bow over the winter as well, and that will have a trolling motor transducer but I will want to have it networked with my other two. Any advice?
I was doing some price checking a few weeks ago trying to decide which route I'm going to go. Anyways I emailed BBG marine told him what I wanted to do and within a couple hours he replied with some great pricing and a list of everything I needed to network the units together.
Universal Mania is another company with great pricing and knowledge from what I hear. Give those two a shout and they'll hook you up and explain everything to you if needed.
Or you could get your info from the source: 1-800-633-1468
https://www.humminbird.com/Category/Company/Contact-Us/
On 11/1/2017 at 9:57 PM, 12poundbass said:I was doing some price checking a few weeks ago trying to decide which route I'm going to go. Anyways I emailed BBG marine told him what I wanted to do and within a couple hours he replied with some great pricing and a list of everything I needed to network the units together.
Universal Mania is another company with great pricing and knowledge from what I hear. Give those two a shout and they'll hook you up and explain everything to you if needed.
On 11/1/2017 at 10:08 PM, J Francho said:Or you could get your info from the source: 1-800-633-1468
https://www.humminbird.com/Category/Company/Contact-Us/
Thanks, called both these places and I think i've got it figured out. It's way more complicated than I thought to get this stuff all set up.
On 11/2/2017 at 12:23 AM, RenegadeBassin said:
Thanks, called both these places and I think i've got it figured out. It's way more complicated than I thought to get this stuff all set up.
Lol. Yes it is. My head was spinning.
If you will be networking more than 2 units you will need the ethernet hub
I am trading in my 2011 Skeeter ZX225 and going to the smaller, more nimble and much less expensive Renegade. I will be getting the 1775 with a 90hp, 2 8'talons and and a Minn Kota Ultrex. Hummingbird Electronics.
I love the Pro V Bass models and may upgrade to that later....if needed. Depending on how this little boat handles rough water conditions on big water.
Oh and have also requested hotfoot and blinker style trim. Cannot wait for shallow water spring fishin, this boat will be perfect!
Edited by Randy AustinJust had mine winterized on Wednesday Spring Can't come soon enough! I'll post a boat update when its about time to get it back out because I have big plans for over the winter.
Swapped out the hook 3. It's looking way less awkward now. I had a new mechanic mount the in dash unit and he did an awesome job.
Now that's an upgrade!
Looking sweet!
Looks awesome! This boat is on my radar when its time to buy in the next year or so. Great value. Nice looking.
On 10/14/2017 at 9:25 PM, slonezp said:If you are thinking of a Ranger, do your research. There are reported structural issues on the RT 188 line,
where did you learn this?
On 1/3/2018 at 10:48 AM, Quarry Man said:where did you learn this?
PM sent
Recently installed the bow helix on my own time. It was pretty easy since there was pre-rigged power for it under the pedal tray. Just had to run the ethernet cable to the console where my 5 port switch is. It appears to all be working but I'll find out for sure in a few months.
Had a couple goodies show up in the mail yesterday...
On 2/20/2018 at 9:04 PM, RenegadeBassin said:Had a couple goodies show up in the mail yesterday...
I've been following your install, can't wait to see the finished product.
Put the blades on a couple days ago!
Looking good!
Nice rig@RenegadeBassin! Great setup and summary of everything you have done.
I'm looking at the 1775 and the RT 178; unfortunately I'm undecided.
I would like to know if you could share that info about the Rangers... @Quarry Man and @slonezp.
I'd hate to invest my hard earned money into Rangers structure issues.
On 3/23/2018 at 4:38 AM, MrBigDawg said:Nice rig@RenegadeBassin! Great setup and summary of everything you have done.
I'm looking at the 1775 and the RT 178; unfortunately I'm undecided.
I would like to know if you could share that info about the Rangers... @Quarry Man and @slonezp.
I'd hate to invest my hard earned money into Rangers structure issues.
There are multiple threads on other sites. Google ranger aluminum hull cracks
Nice setup, did you install the blades yourself Renegade?
I got a look at the 1775 this weekend at the northwest sports show. Sick looking boat! I had already been in thoughts of upgrading my tracker 170, and this scratched the itch. Does anyone know the stored length of the 1775? As in trailer folded and motor trimmed down? My tracker stores at 19'8" and I don't have a lot more room in the garage!
On 3/24/2018 at 8:33 AM, gimruis said:Nice setup, did you install the blades yourself Renegade?
Yes I did everything other than put the m to s brackets on because they had to go behind the motor and I didn't really have any way to get the motor off that I trusted.
Really nice boat and setup! Is there really no way to mount the larger Helix 10 in the console? On Lund's website the Lowrance HDS 12 is available as a "flush mount console" option on this boat and it's 12.92" wide. Possibly with some type of mount or bracket?
On 3/30/2018 at 2:11 AM, Jibber82 said:Really nice boat and setup! Is there really no way to mount the larger Helix 10 in the console? On Lund's website the Lowrance HDS 12 is available as a "flush mount console" option on this boat and it's 12.92" wide. Possibly with some type of mount or bracket?
It wasn't a width issue it was a depth issue, there is some fiberglass behind the dash that they would of had to cut to fit it in there. The HDS must not be as big in the back as the helix. They do make mounts that work for the console that aren't flush that I've seen. I think the brand might be Precision Sonar. They stick out a little ways but look really good regardless.
On 3/31/2018 at 12:32 AM, RenegadeBassin said:It wasn't a width issue it was a depth issue, there is some fiberglass behind the dash that they would of had to cut to fit it in there. The HDS must not be as big in the back as the helix. They do make mounts that work for the console that aren't flush that I've seen. I think the brand might be Precision Sonar. They stick out a little ways but look really good regardless.
Awesome. Thank you for the info. That makes sense because I spoke with a Lund representative about this today and he said even the Helix 10 non-DI or SI model will fit but the Helix 10 with SI or DI wont fit so these DI, SI units must be a little deeper. Anyways, I am very seriously considering ordering this boat. I also live in the northeast (New Hampshire). Are you happy with the boat? Anything you would warn me of?
Very close to pulling the trigger on a Renegade myself. Thinking either 1775 with 90hp ETEC HO or 1875 with Yamaha 115 Vmax SHO. Is hydraulic steering standard or an add on? Can't seem to find it on Lunds website. Planning on Humminbird electronics, minn kota Ultrex or Fortrex and hydraulic jack and possible one or two power poles. Going to have to pick between Ultrex by itself or fortrex with a power pole, any thoughts on that?
What kind of top end speed do you get with the merc 115 on the 1875? Not much data on engine performance for renegades out there yet. I've seen that a 1775 with a merc 90 should get high 44-48 without any special mods. Thinking the 1875 might be able to get around 55mph?
On 4/1/2018 at 8:18 AM, Janderson45 said:Very close to pulling the trigger on a Renegade myself. Thinking either 1775 with 90hp ETEC HO or 1875 with Yamaha 115 Vmax SHO. Is hydraulic steering standard or an add on? Can't seem to find it on Lunds website. Planning on Humminbird electronics, minn kota Ultrex or Fortrex and hydraulic jack and possible one or two power poles. Going to have to pick between Ultrex by itself or fortrex with a power pole, any thoughts on that?
What kind of top end speed do you get with the merc 115 on the 1875? Not much data on engine performance for renegades out there yet. I've seen that a 1775 with a merc 90 should get high 44-48 without any special mods. Thinking the 1875 might be able to get around 55mph?
Hydraulic steering is an add on, mine doesn't have it. I've heard tons of good things about the ultrex and wish I had put one on mine. I'd get the ultrex and then add another pole when you can, because two poles is also really nice.
I just put my boat in the water for the first time since winter yesterday, so I got to try the poles out, and I love them. It was a really windy day and I actually used them a lot as drift paddles (I don't actually have the drift paddles) to slow my drift down the banks, it worked great!
I am still trying to get the performance worked out, I think I am going to need to re-prop now that I've added some stuff to the boat along with the fact that I will be fishing with a partner 90% of the time, but I can tell you I got 52 mph in the fall with the boat relatively unloaded, and thats about the best I think you will see out of the 1875. The 1775 tops out around 44, according to *** and a few other articles I've read. However they also said the 1875 tops out at 49, and I've proven that wrong, so you never know!
On 3/31/2018 at 2:25 AM, Jibber82 said:Awesome. Thank you for the info. That makes sense because I spoke with a Lund representative about this today and he said even the Helix 10 non-DI or SI model will fit but the Helix 10 with SI or DI wont fit so these DI, SI units must be a little deeper. Anyways, I am very seriously considering ordering this boat. I also live in the northeast (New Hampshire). Are you happy with the boat? Anything you would warn me of?
I am very happy with the boat. One of my major concerns was I went a little crazy and bought a ton of electronics and then realized there wasn't any room in the battery compartment to get a bigger cranking battery--at least the way I have mine set up--but I got the boat in the water yesterday for the first time since the fall and I fished for like 6 hours and didn't kill my battery. If you do go electronics crazy like I did, just make sure you are smart about it and put the stuff you aren't using in standby and use a low voltage alarm on your fish finders, that way If you do get low, you can run the outboard for a little bit for some more juice.
I have been looking at boats, with plans to buy next year if everything goes right and it's looking like the Renegade 1875 is going to be the winner. I also liked the Ranger RT188 a lot, but the Renegade is a little cheaper, plus Lund would be my first choice for an aluminum boat a well since they've been doing it so long.
What's the fuel consumption like? I'd assume not too bad.
Anything else you don't like about the boat?
On 4/1/2018 at 10:36 PM, RenegadeBassin said:I am very happy with the boat. One of my major concerns was I went a little crazy and bought a ton of electronics and then realized there wasn't any room in the battery compartment to get a bigger cranking battery--at least the way I have mine set up--but I got the boat in the water yesterday for the first time since the fall and I fished for like 6 hours and didn't kill my battery. If you do go electronics crazy like I did, just make sure you are smart about it and put the stuff you aren't using in standby and use a low voltage alarm on your fish finders, that way If you do get low, you can run the outboard for a little bit for some more juice.
Thanks for the info. That is a good point on the low voltage alarm. I went ahead and ordered a Renegade 1875 over the weekend. Got the 115 Pro XS, stereo, auto bilge, Smartcraft gauges, tilt steering, upgraded trailer. I also upgraded the TM to an Ultrex 80# 52".
I haven't ordered any electronics yet but I'm planning on a Helix 10 SI at the console on a Precision Sonar mount and a Helix 10 DI at the bow but I'm not sure how to mount the bow unit yet. Which mount did you use at the bow? Your's looks like it fits perfectly.
Which mount did you use to mount your bow electronics?
On 4/3/2018 at 2:31 AM, Jibber82 said:Thanks for the info. That is a good point on the low voltage alarm. I went ahead and ordered a Renegade 1875 over the weekend. Got the 115 Pro XS, stereo, auto bilge, Smartcraft gauges, tilt steering, upgraded trailer. I also upgraded the TM to an Ultrex 80# 52".
I haven't ordered any electronics yet but I'm planning on a Helix 10 SI at the console on a Precision Sonar mount and a Helix 10 DI at the bow but I'm not sure how to mount the bow unit yet. Which mount did you use at the bow? Your's looks like it fits perfectly.
On 4/3/2018 at 5:12 AM, nocluefisher said:Which mount did you use to mount your bow electronics?
http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Comfortroll_On_Deck_Electronics_Mount/descpage-COMFOD.html
On 4/3/2018 at 12:40 AM, Boomstick said:I have been looking at boats, with plans to buy next year if everything goes right and it's looking like the Renegade 1875 is going to be the winner. I also liked the Ranger RT188 a lot, but the Renegade is a little cheaper, plus Lund would be my first choice for an aluminum boat a well since they've been doing it so long.
What's the fuel consumption like? I'd assume not too bad.
Anything else you don't like about the boat?
I don't really have something to compare against for fuel consumption. I've only owned one boat before this one and it was a lot smaller so its hard to compare.
On 4/3/2018 at 6:10 AM, RenegadeBassin said:I don't really have something to compare against for fuel consumption. I've only owned one boat before this one and it was a lot smaller so its hard to compare.
Understood. One of the reasons I'm shopping aluminum boats is because they're supposed to be so much more fuel efficient, which results in more time on the water.
My 18’ Xpress with. A 115 had a 25 gal tank. A full tank would last a month of a weeknight or two of fishing and tournaments every weekend, so long as I wasn’t running WOT constantly.
On 4/3/2018 at 8:02 AM, J Francho said:My 18’ Xpress with. A 115 had a 25 gal tank. A full tank would last a month of a weeknight or two of fishing and tournaments every weekend, so long as I wasn’t running WOT constantly.
That should be no problem at all! If I can put in a half a tank every weekend and get a solid weekend of fishing, let's say I wouldn't have to altar my budget to fish all weekend.
On 4/3/2018 at 8:27 AM, Boomstick said:That should be no problem at all! If I can put in a half a tank every weekend and get a solid weekend of fishing, let's say I wouldn't have to altar my budget to fish all weekend.
That's basically what I do. I only fill it up to about a half a tank because why weigh yourself down with a full tank if you don't need it?
This thread is very helpful, I appreciate you posting all of your opinions and experiences with the Lund Renegade so far...
I'm leaning towards an 1875 Renegade just like yours, rigged up nicely with humminbirds.. probably a helix 9 Chirp GPS G2N flush mounted at helm, with an additional helix 7SI G2N mounted off the side of the console, and a Helix 9DI G2N mounted at the bow. Was considering a 10" Solix for the helm or the bow, but don't think I really need it and can justify the extra cost, especially if I'm not able to flush mount it on the console. I already own the Helix 7 SI G2N, so thinking I'll use that for pretty much dedicated SI, while a Helix 9 Chirp/GPS G2N flush mounted can show me charts and traditional sonar. Both units at the helm networked together and also networked to the helix 9 DI G2N at the bow... finally helix 9 at the bow networked with trolling motor (minn kota ultrex) From what I understand this should all be pretty straightforward and doable- I'll just need numerous ethernet cables and splitters from Humminbird? As far as transducers are concerned, would I just be using the SI transducer off the transom while sitting at the helm and then the DI transducer off the bow mount trolling motor when at the bow on the TM? Any need for an additional transducer off the transom or thru-hull?
The only thing keeping me from pulling the trigger on the 1875 is that I really wish it would take a 150hp outboard. I LOVE the G2 E-Tec's and wouldn't hesitate to throw one on this bad boy if I could! As it stands with the 115hp max I'm leaning towards the Yamaha 115 VMAX-SHO or the Gen-1 115HP E-Tec. I know a lot of people run the Merc's and have zero issues with them and claim that they're super reliable, but I personally feel that Yamaha makes a better motor, and Evinrude is going to be the most powerful/best performer. No dealer scheduled maintenance for 300 hours, easy winterization, and no break in period is pretty awesome too!
On 4/3/2018 at 10:47 PM, Janderson45 said:This thread is very helpful, I appreciate you posting all of your opinions and experiences with the Lund Renegade so far...
I'm leaning towards an 1875 Renegade just like yours, rigged up nicely with humminbirds.. probably a helix 9 Chirp GPS G2N flush mounted at helm, with an additional helix 7SI G2N mounted off the side of the console, and a Helix 9DI G2N mounted at the bow. Was considering a 10" Solix for the helm or the bow, but don't think I really need it and can justify the extra cost, especially if I'm not able to flush mount it on the console. I already own the Helix 7 SI G2N, so thinking I'll use that for pretty much dedicated SI, while a Helix 9 Chirp/GPS G2N flush mounted can show me charts and traditional sonar. Both units at the helm networked together and also networked to the helix 9 DI G2N at the bow... finally helix 9 at the bow networked with trolling motor (minn kota ultrex) From what I understand this should all be pretty straightforward and doable- I'll just need numerous ethernet cables and splitters from Humminbird? As far as transducers are concerned, would I just be using the SI transducer off the transom while sitting at the helm and then the DI transducer off the bow mount trolling motor when at the bow on the TM? Any need for an additional transducer off the transom or thru-hull?
The only thing keeping me from pulling the trigger on the 1875 is that I really wish it would take a 150hp outboard. I LOVE the G2 E-Tec's and wouldn't hesitate to throw one on this bad boy if I could! As it stands with the 115hp max I'm leaning towards the Yamaha 115 VMAX-SHO or the Gen-1 115HP E-Tec. I know a lot of people run the Merc's and have zero issues with them and claim that they're super reliable, but I personally feel that Yamaha makes a better motor, and Evinrude is going to be the most powerful/best performer. No dealer scheduled maintenance for 300 hours, easy winterization, and no break in period is pretty awesome too!
You will need one ethernet cable per unit, along with one adapter for each cable if you get helix's, and then the ethernet switch to connect them all. I have mine setup so the two console units run off the mega si transducer on the transom, and the bow unit is obviously connected to its own transducer on the trolling motor.
@RennegadeBassin...great write up and thanks for keeping us posted with your progress. Thats one bad ass boat. Ive started looking at boats and for the price of the 1875, it really cant be beat. Your finished product is basically the boat i want. Looking back on how you went about everything, would you have the dealer set up everything for you so all you have to do is go pick it up? So have them install talons (are 12' available for the 1875?), electronics etc? I like the idea of saving money and it seems as though dealer prices for electronics (probably everything for that matter) are much higher than sourcing them through companies listed in this thread. Im in western maine and cant wait to see one of these bad boys. Mid-Maine marine shows a white one in stock @ just under $23k. Not bad.
One other question, does your boat sit so the bow is higher than the stern? I see a lot of aluminum boats do this. From what ive seen online the renegade seems to side pretty level bow to stern.
On 4/5/2018 at 3:07 AM, BassB8Caster said:@RennegadeBassin...great write up and thanks for keeping us posted with your progress. Thats one bad ass boat. Ive started looking at boats and for the price of the 1875, it really cant be beat. Your finished product is basically the boat i want. Looking back on how you went about everything, would you have the dealer set up everything for you so all you have to do is go pick it up? So have them install talons (are 12' available for the 1875?), electronics etc? I like the idea of saving money and it seems as though dealer prices for electronics (probably everything for that matter) are much higher than sourcing them through companies listed in this thread. Im in western maine and cant wait to see one of these bad boys. Mid-Maine marine shows a white one in stock @ just under $23k. Not bad.
One other question, does your boat sit so the bow is higher than the stern? I see a lot of aluminum boats do this. From what ive seen online the renegade seems to side pretty level bow to stern.
I chose to do it all myself to save money and because I enjoy projects like this. I don't know what the scoop is on talons, what I did was emailed Lund about the power-poles to make sure it was ok to do, and I would suggest doing the same. One thing to consider is that talons are really heavy. I don't have anything against them, but they will probably slow the boat down quite a bit if you get 2 12's and they may make it sit bow high.
I have heard that buying electronics through the dealer can be pricey, but it may be a good idea to try to get them put on the boat at the factory if you order it, because then you wouldn't get charged for labor if you had them put on at a shop after the fact. Some of the other guys on here may be able to give you better advice on this. I didn't have that choice because I bought mine like a day after seeing it on the lot.
Heres a picture of how the boat sat in the water before the poles. Haven't had a chance to see from the side since i've put them on, but I doubt they did much they aren't heavy.
This thread has been seeing quite a bit of attention lately! I am glad I can help people who have questions about the renegade. I just want to repeat what I said before about how I am definitely not an expert on boats, just doing what I can to help from my personal experience with this model. That being said I am very happy to answer everyone's questions. Thanks guys
On 4/5/2018 at 3:21 AM, RenegadeBassin said:I have heard that buying electronics through the dealer can be pricey, but it may be a good idea to try to get them put on the boat at the factory if you order it, because then you wouldn't get charged for labor if you had them put on at a shop after the fact. Some of the other guys on here may be able to give you better advice on this. I didn't have that choice because I bought mine like a day after seeing it on the lot.
The only problem with getting electronics installed at the factory is that many units are not factory options. I wanted a Helix 10 Mega DI at the bow and a Helix 10 Mega SI at the console. Neither of these are available options from the factory. With that said my dealers prices for the units themselves was the same as the retail price everywhere else.
On 4/5/2018 at 11:43 PM, Jibber82 said:The only problem with getting electronics installed at the factory is that many units are not factory options. I wanted a Helix 10 Mega DI at the bow and a Helix 10 Mega SI at the console. Neither of these are available options from the factory. With that said my dealers prices for the units themselves was the same as the retail price everywhere else.
Yeah I see they only list a few options on their website...I wonder if those are really the only units they will do or if they just don't have a very updated list of choices online?
On 4/6/2018 at 12:11 AM, RenegadeBassin said:Yeah I see they only list a few options on their website...I wonder if those are really the only units they will do or if they just don't have a very updated list of choices online?
I spoke with a Lund rep and those are the only units they will do at the factory.
@RenegadeBassin thank you for the follow up. The info i am looking for. I think the only down side i could see with the lunds (of course layout is personal preference) is the .100 hull thickness. it would be nice to see a higher guage here. But i dont plan on running into stuff. I was initially set on a used fiberglass but aluminum would be better for taking the family out and pulling up to a beach. Nice to see that the 1875 can hold 8' rods as well. I love how big the front deck is too.
@RenegadeBassin do you know if Optima D31M batteries will fit in the battery compartment of the Renegade? Dimensions of this battery are 12.81" x 6.56" x 9.38" (LxWxH). If not what about D27M's 12.19" x 6.81" x 8.75"?
On 4/9/2018 at 8:42 PM, Jibber82 said:@RenegadeBassin do you know if Optima D31M batteries will fit in the battery compartment of the Renegade? Dimensions of this battery are 12.81" x 6.56" x 9.38" (LxWxH). If not what about D27M's 12.19" x 6.81" x 8.75"?
For trolling motor batteries right? I can measure when I go home to eat lunch. In the meantime I have a picture from before I rearranged everything for my pumps that may or may not help.
Thanks for the quick reply! That is really helpful. Are those TM batteries 27DCM NAPA batteries (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP8301)? If so they are listed as 12 1/2" long but it sure doesn't look like that on the tape.
On 4/9/2018 at 9:01 PM, Jibber82 said:Thanks for the quick reply! That is really helpful. Are those TM batteries 27DCM NAPA batteries (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP8301)? If so they are listed as 12 1/2" long but it sure doesn't look like that on the tape.
Yeah those are 27's. I think the tape is a bad representation of the actual length because it is closer to the camera than the batteries are. I would just ignore it and go by online specs about the batteries.
So I measured over from my cranking battery to the opposite side of the compartment. It was 28". I did move the cranking battery over a little bit to make more room, but it seems like you should be able to fit everything in there.
Awesome! Thanks so much for your help. Just to be sure, for the cranking battery could you get away with a 12.81" x 6.56" (LxW) battery?
On 4/10/2018 at 3:21 AM, Jibber82 said:Awesome! Thanks so much for your help. Just to be sure, for the cranking battery could you get away with a 12.81" x 6.56" (LxW) battery?
If you are going to leave the batteries in the configuration they are in, you won't be able to get anything longer than 11.5 inches. That is one issue I have run into with this boat. I wanted to get a bigger cranking battery to support all the toys I added, but I found out I was constrained to 11.5 inches and they only really make 24s or 34s that fit in there.
OK that is what I was afraid of but I should be OK with a 34.
I want to buy the 1775 Renegade. I have one question. I like to fish main lake points so there are boats going by fairly often. How does it handle the wakes from other boats while you are on the trolling motor?
I have a Sea Nymph fishing machine deep v 16.5 feet and it has done well most of the time.
I am worried the stability maybe a step down in that aspect.
On 4/27/2018 at 6:34 AM, o2bfishn@frontier.com said:I want to buy the 1775 Renegade. I have one question. I like to fish main lake points so there are boats going by fairly often. How does it handle the wakes from other boats while you are on the trolling motor?
I have a Sea Nymph fishing machine deep v 16.5 feet and it has done well most of the time.
I am worried the stability maybe a step down in that aspect.
Thats a tough one for me to answer. What I may consider to be stable may be different than what you consider to be stable. I think its plenty stable, but I also live in an area where I don't have a ton of boat traffic. I may be able to give you a better answer on Monday. I am fishing a tournament sunday which will be the first one out of this boat for me, and I am sure I will encounter some wakes. I'll get back to you!
Having owned both deep-v and mod-v hulls I'll offer this. On flat water, while fishing, a mod-v is more stable. A deep-v will ride smoother in waves when running. Any boat hull type will be unsettled if a large wake hits the boat broad side.
If Lund had introduced this boat one year earlier (prior to 2016), I would have seriously considered it as an option in my boat buying process. I like my Ranger RT178 but the Lund Renegade 1775 series has a few options that the Ranger didn't offer. The main item was the ability to put a 90 hp outboard on it compared to a 75 on the Ranger. Oh well
On 4/27/2018 at 10:09 PM, J Francho said:Any boat hull type will be unsettled if a large wake hits the boat broad side.
Exactly. Thats why I don't want to just go and say its a stable boat, because I have no idea what type of wakes he is talking about. Could be the wake of another small boat, or it could be large ship going up the channel for all I know
I fish inland lakes with pleasure boater buzzing around not large barges but half throttle 25-30 foot boats cruising around playing crappy music too loud. You know the guy. I do go to the no wake areas when it is very busy.
My sea nymph can handle it okay, but it is a lighter boat and 72 inch beam compared to 95 inches beam on the lund.
Just looking for your experience and impressions with this boat.
I have a buddy that has a Tracker 175txw for sale but I think the Lund 1775 would be a better boat.
The Lund will be more stable at rest, but will probably hit the wakes harder than the Sea Nymph when you're running. I'd take the lund over the Tracker any day, not because it's a Tracker, but because I like everything about the Lund hull and layout more than the Tracker.
I agree with what Tim is saying. I think you would be just as well off in the Lund in those waves as you would be in most other boats, while fishing. Like any other mod v, it won't handle the waves as well as a v-hull when running through them. I was in quite a few waves yesterday and it wasn't a big deal. We had to do an idle only blast off because there was severe fog. Pretty hilarious...it was a turtle race across the lake. Anyway, with everyone going around 8-10 mph and throwing huge wakes there were still quite a few waves when I started fishing. It is much more of an up and down motion than a rocking back and forth motion if you know what I mean.
On 4/27/2018 at 11:13 PM, gimruis said:If Lund had introduced this boat one year earlier (prior to 2016), I would have seriously considered it as an option in my boat buying process. I like my Ranger RT178 but the Lund Renegade 1775 series has a few options that the Ranger didn't offer. The main item was the ability to put a 90 hp outboard on it compared to a 75 on the Ranger. Oh well
I just got to look at the Renegade 1775 and I have to say compared to the Ranger RT178, it has a much better layout. I felt that I had more width on the seating area, and more depth up front. The RT178 is still better than most. I liked the 1775 so much that I'm considering saving some money and going with the smaller model.
The RT188 and 1875 appear to be much more similar.
Hey Renegade another question for you. When networking your electronics what length of Ethernet cables did you use to go from the bow unit to the switch and from the console unit to the switch? Also where did you put the switch?
On 5/2/2018 at 10:12 PM, Jibber82 said:Hey Renegade another question for you. When networking your electronics what length of Ethernet cables did you use to go from the bow unit to the switch and from the console unit to the switch? Also where did you put the switch?
My ethernet switch is in behind my dash inside my console. I was going to have it mounted underneath the console, but when the guy who installed my dash unit took the dash off we discovered a nice open space in there so that's where it ended up. All you have to do to get to it is take the four screws out of the dash with a screwdriver and pull the dash out towards you.
For my bow unit, I used a 15' ethernet cable, and for my other two at the console I used 2' cables. The reason I could do that was because the adapter cables you have to get for the helix's are a foot long or so so they give you some extra length.
Cool thanks for the info! I don't think they sell the 2' cable anymore. I can't find it for sale anywhere.
On 5/3/2018 at 9:06 PM, Jibber82 said:Cool thanks for the info! I don't think they sell the 2' cable anymore. I can't find it for sale anywhere.
BBG Marine was where I got all my networking stuff. They may be able to help.
On 3/26/2018 at 10:14 AM, dsidle61 said:
I got a look at the 1775 this weekend at the northwest sports show. Sick looking boat! I had already been in thoughts of upgrading my tracker 170, and this scratched the itch. Does anyone know the stored length of the 1775? As in trailer folded and motor trimmed down? My tracker stores at 19'8" and I don't have a lot more room in the garage!
I have been looking for the same info but can not seem to find it. The Lund dealer is about 150 miles away. I stopped by the ranger dealer yesterday and measured the RT178 on the trailer, fold and motor trimmed and it is 22' 8". Sadly 4 inches too long for my garage! So no new Ranger for me.
If any of you guys are close to a dealer or own a Lund 1775 would you please measure it?
I have the new boat itch, but I do not want to drive 300 miles round trip to find out it is too long.
Thanks
I am interested in picking up an 1875 or an RT188 with a 115 for my first bass boat. How much do prices come down in fall and/or winter?
TIA
I guess that would depend on your dealer, but I think generally speaking prices typically will go down a few thousand if the dealer really wants to get rid of the boat before the season is over. Most dealers have whats called a floor plan. It's sort of like a loan. The brands that the dealer sells send them the boats that they put in their inventory, and for a period of time they don't have to pay any interest on them, but if that time period is up and they still have the boat, they have to start paying interest, and that makes them more motivated to sell, which can bring the price down.
On 5/5/2018 at 10:09 AM, smackthatbass said:I am interested in picking up an 1875 or an RT188 with a 115 for my first bass boat. How much do prices come down in fall and/or winter?
TIA
Prices fluctuate less on premium brands and most dealers don't inventory heavy.
I live in western Maine. I have 3 dealers (Lund) within 1.5 hours of me. One (the closest one) has an open house event soon. So I contacted them to see if they will have a renegade in stock to check out. Nope. Said they haven't even had anyone order one. The other two I emailed to get info about the buying/ordering/upgrading process. Got an email with a quote (NH dealer) with add ons I asked for (except they quoted talons instead of power poles. Not a word from the other dealer. Apparently they don't care to sell a boat. The quote I got was high (in my opinion). They priced the boat and motor (115 merc) at $26995. Then upgrading to an 80lb ultrex, one helix 9 mega si at console and 2 talons final price is $35989. I've seen this boat without the upgrades for 23 and change. I believe renegadebassin said he paid just over 23 for his.
Def not the selling urgency like with vehicles. We will see this fall.
Yeah I got a deal. I think it was a combination of the dealer already having the boat on the lot for like 4-5 months and the fact that we were going into winter. There are a lot more cold water fisherman around here than bass.
On 5/4/2018 at 5:54 AM, o2bfishn@frontier.com said:I have been looking for the same info but can not seem to find it. The Lund dealer is about 150 miles away. I stopped by the ranger dealer yesterday and measured the RT178 on the trailer, fold and motor trimmed and it is 22' 8". Sadly 4 inches too long for my garage! So no new Ranger for me.
If any of you guys are close to a dealer or own a Lund 1775 would you please measure it?
I have the new boat itch, but I do not want to drive 300 miles round trip to find out it is too long.
Thanks
So I got a hold of Rapid Marine. They had a 1775 crappie edition, which I dont believe changes length at all. They told me that the stored length (trailer folded and motor trimmed down) is 20'4". I'd still like to get eyes on one and measure it for myself but I definitely dont think youd have any trouble with a 22' garage.
On 5/7/2018 at 7:16 PM, BassB8Caster said:I live in western Maine. I have 3 dealers (Lund) within 1.5 hours of me. One (the closest one) has an open house event soon. So I contacted them to see if they will have a renegade in stock to check out. Nope. Said they haven't even had anyone order one. The other two I emailed to get info about the buying/ordering/upgrading process. Got an email with a quote (NH dealer) with add ons I asked for (except they quoted talons instead of power poles. Not a word from the other dealer. Apparently they don't care to sell a boat. The quote I got was high (in my opinion). They priced the boat and motor (115 merc) at $26995. Then upgrading to an 80lb ultrex, one helix 9 mega si at console and 2 talons final price is $35989. I've seen this boat without the upgrades for 23 and change. I believe renegadebassin said he paid just over 23 for his.
Def not the selling urgency like with vehicles. We will see this fall.
I paid 30k for my 1875 at a dealership in NH this past March. All the upgrades add up quickly. I did an 80# 52" Ultrex w iPilot-link and quick release plate (plus install charges). My options included the 115 Pro XS, Raised logo on freeboards, cover, stereo, auto bilge, tackle trays port and starboard, Smartcraft gauges, tilt steering, 2 bike seats w air ride, and the upgraded Shorearmr trailer. Don't forget if you order your boat from Lund like I did they also get you for dealer freight and prep which is not included on Lund's boat builder thingy and for me was around $1500. So in total the retail was over 33k so I was happy at 30k. I am still waiting patiently on delivery of the boat (should be delivered end of this month). I purchased 2 Helix 10's, all mounting hardware (Precision Sonar) and networking stuff, a 3 bank charger, and 2 Optima D31M's on my own separately but will have the dealer install.
On 5/11/2018 at 9:56 PM, Jibber82 said:I paid 30k for my 1875 at a dealership in NH this past March. All the upgrades add up quickly. I did an 80# 52" Ultrex w iPilot-link and quick release plate (plus install charges). My options included the 115 Pro XS, Raised logo on freeboards, cover, stereo, auto bilge, tackle trays port and starboard, Smartcraft gauges, tilt steering, 2 bike seats w air ride, and the upgraded Shorearmr trailer. Don't forget if you order your boat from Lund like I did they also get you for dealer freight and prep which is not included on Lund's boat builder thingy and for me was around $1500. So in total the retail was over 33k so I was happy at 30k. I am still waiting patiently on delivery of the boat (should be delivered end of this month). I purchased 2 Helix 10's, all mounting hardware (Precision Sonar) and networking stuff, a 3 bank charger, and 2 Optima D31M's on my own separately but will have the dealer install.
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah 30k is really the highest I want to go. I'm aware the Lund price does not include de the dealer prep fees. Just want sure how much that would be. Does that trailer you got have a braking system? What exactly is the upgrade? I emailed greens marine twice. The first time he quoted me for stuff I didn't ask for. Then I asked him what the boat price he gave me included and it had stuff I didn't want (crappie option, etc). If someone wants to buy something from you wouldn't you ask them what they want instead of putting options on that they may not want? That turned me off. Done with them. Never asked me one question about the order. Quoted me 26995 for boat and trailer. Im in no hurry to buy. Will see what dealer inventory is this fall. Ptices should come down some. Vexus is coming out with a pretty sick boat. 18'9 aluminum fiberglass hybrid base price around 26k. Includes 115 motor, trailer with brakes, hydraulic steering, fortrex TM etc. Pretty good deal. Closest dealer will be connecticut tho.
On 5/11/2018 at 10:27 PM, BassB8Caster said:Thanks for the feedback. Yeah 30k is really the highest I want to go. I'm aware the Lund price does not include de the dealer prep fees. Just want sure how much that would be. Does that trailer you got have a braking system? What exactly is the upgrade? I emailed greens marine twice. The first time he quoted me for stuff I didn't ask for. Then I asked him what the boat price he gave me included and it had stuff I didn't want (crappie option, etc). If someone wants to buy something from you wouldn't you ask them what they want instead of putting options on that they may not want? That turned me off. Done with them. Never asked me one question about the order. Quoted me 26995 for boat and trailer. Im in no hurry to buy. Will see what dealer inventory is this fall. Ptices should come down some. Vexus is coming out with a pretty sick boat. 18'9 aluminum fiberglass hybrid base price around 26k. Includes 115 motor, trailer with brakes, hydraulic steering, fortrex TM etc. Pretty good deal. Closest dealer will be connecticut tho.
The trailer upgrades include the cool wheels, spare tire, retractable tie downs in the back, and I think that's it although I could be forgetting something. It does not have brakes. I don't believe any trailer for a boat of this weight will have brakes. I bought mine from Green's and honestly the in store experience was good (I did have to wait 15 min for a salesperson) but their customer service over the phone and email has been terrible. I've had a lot of questions about options and batteries and such since I bought and RenegadeBassin has helped me more than Greens has. Getting answers to specific questions from them has been like pulling teeth which is frustrating since I spent 30 freaking k on a boat with them. It's making me worried that they won't install my graphs and options correctly so I am crossing my fingers on that. I have checked out the Vexus and it is a freaking sweet boat.
On a side note. I think the reason they quoted you on stuff you didn't ask for is because they quoted you for the 1875 they have in stock at Greens it's white and has the crappie option. I think they did the same to me when I asked for an initial quote. As for dealer inventory prices in the fall they will definitely be better than ordering one from Lund in the spring. Did not see the Vexus trailer has brakes. Maybe it's a bit heavier being a fiberglass/aluminum hybrid?
On 5/11/2018 at 10:49 PM, Jibber82 said:On a side note. I think the reason they quoted you on stuff you didn't ask for is because they quoted you for the 1875 they have in stock at Greens it's white and has the crappie option. I think they did the same to me when I asked for an initial quote. As for dealer inventory prices in the fall they will definitely be better than ordering one from Lund in the spring. Did not see the Vexus trailer has brakes. Maybe it's a bit heavier being a fiberglass/aluminum hybrid?
Appears that boat dealers (lund atleast) in Maine and NH are not very good (on the sales side at least). Seem to careless about customer service and earning ones business. That def concerns me a little. Im not as concerned with the sales side as thats just a numbers game. Im concerned with good services, as issues can and probably will come up. One dealer (closest one to me) actually responded quite quickly. Unfortunately they do not have a renegade in stock and said they will not be bringing one in. I agree with you about concern with proper install of electronics (and any dealer installed item). Simple things like proper fuses for upgraded electronics. Im considering installing my own as well.
As far as the Vexus goes, it is very similar to the renegade with length, motor options, etc. Not sure of specs as they are not listed online yet. I guess its old ranger guys making them / starting the company. I do not mind travelling to CT to buy the boat, my concern is if i have a warranty issue with the boat i would have to go to CT, then back to pick it up. I would think that if i have motor issues, any Mercury dealer will honor that, regardless where i bought the boat. The vexus also has hydraulic steering standard, a nice upgrade. The base price does not come with any electronics. I was hoping (looking to be wishful thinking as i look more) to be $30k or under with 2 power poles, upgraded trolling motor and some sort of graphs (console and bow). We will see when the time comes how much over that $26k a base boat and trailer runs (with dealer prep fees etc).
If you do end up putting poles on and you have any questions about brackets and stuff I can help you. It gets a little confusing if you aren't bolting to a jackplate because you can't use sandwich brackets with mercury's warranty.
On 5/13/2018 at 11:33 PM, RenegadeBassin said:If you do end up putting poles on and you have any questions about brackets and stuff I can help you. It gets a little confusing if you aren't bolting to a jackplate because you can't use sandwich brackets with mercury's warranty.
Appreciate it. I remember you commenting on that earlier in this thread. I fish alone a lot and poles are high on my priority list.
On 5/13/2018 at 11:33 PM, RenegadeBassin said:If you do end up putting poles on and you have any questions about brackets and stuff I can help you. It gets a little confusing if you aren't bolting to a jackplate because you can't use sandwich brackets with mercury's warranty.
Thanks Renegade. Poles will be in my near future so I will definitely be asking you about the install.
I officially joined the club yesterday with a black 1875 renegade. I'll supposedly get the first run of the 2019 models as I special ordered, interested to see if it stays the exact same or if they'll perhaps address the weather/water sealing concerns on the lids. 6-8 week wait time to get it from the factory. I built a pretty unique rig as I went with an Evinrude E-Tec 115HO, hydraulic jackplate, hotfoot and blinker style trim, minn kota Ultrex and 3 Humminbird helix G2N units. Also got the upgraded trailer, travel cover, bike seat and 3 bank onboard charger. I'm stoked, can't get my hands on it soon enough!
Very nice. Enjoy it.
On 5/20/2018 at 11:43 PM, Janderson45 said:I officially joined the club yesterday with a black 1875 renegade. I'll supposedly get the first run of the 2019 models as I special ordered, interested to see if it stays the exact same or if they'll perhaps address the weather/water sealing concerns on the lids. 6-8 week wait time to get it from the factory. I built a pretty unique rig as I went with an Evinrude E-Tec 115HO, hydraulic jackplate, hotfoot and blinker style trim, minn kota Ultrex and 3 Humminbird helix G2N units. Also got the upgraded trailer, travel cover, bike seat and 3 bank onboard charger. I'm stoked, can't get my hands on it soon enough!
I'm hoping to eventually see this thread turn into a place where more renegade owners can also share their experiences and help other people looking into the boat as well. Congrats man that sounds like its going to be awesome, can't wait to see it!
On 5/20/2018 at 11:43 PM, Janderson45 said:I officially joined the club yesterday with a black 1875 renegade. I'll supposedly get the first run of the 2019 models as I special ordered, interested to see if it stays the exact same or if they'll perhaps address the weather/water sealing concerns on the lids. 6-8 week wait time to get it from the factory. I built a pretty unique rig as I went with an Evinrude E-Tec 115HO, hydraulic jackplate, hotfoot and blinker style trim, minn kota Ultrex and 3 Humminbird helix G2N units. Also got the upgraded trailer, travel cover, bike seat and 3 bank onboard charger. I'm stoked, can't get my hands on it soon enough!
So awesome! I got a call from my dealer that mine should be delivered by this weekend! I'll post pics once I get it. Can't wait. I ordered at the end of March. Honestly not sure if I ordered a 2018 or 2019 haha. Jealous of that hydraulic jackplate and hotfoot!
On 5/21/2018 at 9:40 PM, RenegadeBassin said:I'm hoping to eventually see this thread turn into a place where more renegade owners can also share their experiences and help other people looking into the boat as well. Congrats man that sounds like its going to be awesome, can't wait to see it!
That's good to hear Renegade. I have been a little worried about hijacking your thread
On 5/21/2018 at 10:02 PM, Jibber82 said:That's good to hear Renegade. I have been a little worried about hijacking your thread
Don't worry about that! The more the merrier
On 5/21/2018 at 9:40 PM, RenegadeBassin said:I'm hoping to eventually see this thread turn into a place where more renegade owners can also share their experiences and help other people looking into the boat as well.
That would be great. Just the the Heritage boat thread.
While I'm here, I have story/warning for you new boat owners like me that I don't think I've shared with you guys yet. Some of you may already know to do this but I didn't and its got my boat currently somewhat out of commission.
A couple of weekends ago I was fishing a tournament and the wind was really blowing for the morning blast off. I'm talking about 3 and 4 foot waves. I drew number 1 so I got to go first when we started and so I didn't really have anyone to watch in front of me to gauge just how big those waves were for Maine. I haven't experienced anything like that around here before. I took off across the lake at a speed that I thought was safe, but would also get me to where i wanted to go without getting passed by the entire club behind me. Well, little did I know, in situations like that you want to have a stabilizer bar under your trolling motor. I've seen them before but mine did not come with one from the factory so I didn't think I needed it. If you are going to be going through waves, GET ONE. My fortrex mount basically snapped in half from the force of those waves.
Luckily, minn kota is fixing it for me under warranty since I was not abusing it or mistreating it, I just was going through some unavoidable waves. I haven't been able to go fishing for like 2 weeks though and its driving me crazy.
My advice, if you don't have something to support the head of your trolling motor, I would seriously consider getting one. If I had had one I wouldn't be in the situation I'm in now.
Ouch!
On 5/22/2018 at 3:15 AM, RenegadeBassin said:While I'm here, I have story/warning for you new boat owners like me that I don't think I've shared with you guys yet. Some of you may already know to do this but I didn't and its got my boat currently somewhat out of commission.
A couple of weekends ago I was fishing a tournament and the wind was really blowing for the morning blast off. I'm talking about 3 and 4 foot waves. I drew number 1 so I got to go first when we started and so I didn't really have anyone to watch in front of me to gauge just how big those waves were for Maine. I haven't experienced anything like that around here before. I took off across the lake at a speed that I thought was safe, but would also get me to where i wanted to go without getting passed by the entire club behind me. Well, little did I know, in situations like that you want to have a stabilizer bar under your trolling motor. I've seen them before but mine did not come with one from the factory so I didn't think I needed it. If you are going to be going through waves, GET ONE. My fortrex mount basically snapped in half from the force of those waves.
Luckily, minn kota is fixing it for me under warranty since I was not abusing it or mistreating it, I just was going through some unavoidable waves. I haven't been able to go fishing for like 2 weeks though and its driving me crazy.
My advice, if you don't have something to support the head of your trolling motor, I would seriously consider getting one. If I had had one I wouldn't be in the situation I'm in now.
The stabilizer bar is OK. (and better than nothing).
But it will still 'bounce' and quite a bit.
The T-H Marine Troll Tamer is Very Solid.
A-Jay
Dang Renegade. That sucks. Thanks for the warning. I do know the Ultrex has an arm that touches the deck but not sure if that would be sufficient to avoid this.
Hope you get fixed up and back on the water soon Renegade!
Im still contemplating a Fortrex since it's supposed to be more solid if you hit anything with the motor.. I fish a lot of shallow water and would be super bummed out if the Ultrex took a shot and didn't handle it well... that said I'm probably worrying about nothing and the Ultrex will be fine.. apparently the Fortrex isn't quite as "indestructible" as people say!
I guess I'll be looking into a stabilizer bar or troll tamer like AJ suggested as well.. luckily I don't typically fish rough water like that, but a trip or two each year to Champlain which an get very rough very quick...
On 5/24/2018 at 1:02 AM, Janderson45 said:Hope you get fixed up and back on the water soon Renegade!
Im still contemplating a Fortrex since it's supposed to be more solid if you hit anything with the motor.. I fish a lot of shallow water and would be super bummed out if the Ultrex took a shot and didn't handle it well... that said I'm probably worrying about nothing and the Ultrex will be fine.. apparently the Fortrex isn't quite as "indestructible" as people say!
I guess I'll be looking into a stabilizer bar or troll tamer like AJ suggested as well.. luckily I don't typically fish rough water like that, but a trip or two each year to Champlain which an get very rough very quick...
Aside from this incident the fortrex has been good to me, but I think if you get a fortrex you will regret not getting the ultrex. Its basically the same mount and there are times almost every time I go fishing where I think, man, spot lock would be nice right now.
Hey fellas!
Figured I'd jump in on the thread since I just received the call from my dealer today that my Renegade 1775 has been delivered... When I ordered the boat I was told he had an Ultrex in house that he would put aside for my boat when it came in... low and behold one of his people "stole it" off the shelf and used it for another boat.... so while my boat is at the dealership (hopefully with the shrink wrap still installed) stuck outside, I may have to wait for an Ultrex to come in which are very hard to find right now... may be another 3 weeks. No bueno.
Looks like the dealer is offering the 36V 112lb Ultrex as a free upgrade since they don't have the 80lb Ultrex in house... I'm worried about space in the back storage compartment and where 4 batteries and a charger will fit. Any thoughts? Too much?
On 5/31/2018 at 1:03 AM, Hattrick said:Looks like the dealer is offering the 36V 112lb Ultrex as a free upgrade since they don't have the 80lb Ultrex in house... I'm worried about space in the back storage compartment and where 4 batteries and a charger will fit. Any thoughts? Too much?
Id probably prefer the 80lb, but interested to hear what others think. Im curious about what people are running for batteries on the renegade, I really don't want to run my electronics on my cranking battery or trolling motor batteries ideally I'd have room for a fourth battery to run my graphs, and other misc. electronics.
Thanks for the response! I've been asking around on other forums and everyone is saying definitely take the upgrade, including another Renegade owner. Consensus seems to be the 24V owners would love the extra battery life and power. Saying I won't regret it and jamming 4 batts in the compartment is not an issue since you typically don't use the compartment to store anything.
But if you're happy with the 24V maybe you're on to something with your Humminbird setup, a fourth dedicated electronics battery might be a good idea.
I am not really sure how 4 batterys could fit in there unless they upgraded the compartment? There's no way I could fit 4 in mine!
And thats before I rearranged it all to fit two power pole pumps
On 5/31/2018 at 11:11 PM, RenegadeBassin said:I am not really sure how 4 batterys could fit in there unless they upgraded the compartment? There's no way I could fit 4 in mine!
That was my assumption too. Are you running all of your electronics off the cranking battery and two other batteries dedicated to the TM?
Im trying to get my battery and electronics install figured out and squared away, don't want to do these things twice..
Every boat I've owned, I run the graphs off the cranker without issues.
On 5/31/2018 at 11:30 PM, Janderson45 said:That was my assumption too. Are you running all of your electronics off the cranking battery and two other batteries dedicated to the TM?
Im trying to get my battery and electronics install figured out and squared away, don't want to do these things twice..
I am running 3 fishfinders, two powerpoles, and anything else as needed such as the aerator etc. on the cranking battery and I haven't had a dead battery yet. You just need to be smart about it and keep an eye on your voltage on your fishfinder, turn off stuff you aren't using, and charge your boat when its not in the water. Is it ideal? Maybe not for some people, but it works for me.
Thanks for the input guys, guess I'll probably do the same but keep a jumber box in the boat just in case.. glad to hear with 3 fish finders and other misc. electronics you haven't had any issues yet. I'm just trying to do everything I can to make sure battery life isn't an issue constantly plaguing me.. I've fished with guys who are always having issues with cranking batteries or trolling motor batts dying and it's miserable- don't want to be one of those guys!
I'll post a pic when I get one from dealer. My guess is they rotated the batteries 90 to fit
On 6/1/2018 at 12:10 AM, RenegadeBassin said:I am running 3 fishfinders, two powerpoles, and anything else as needed such as the aerator etc. on the cranking battery and I haven't had a dead battery yet. You just need to be smart about it and keep an eye on your voltage on your fishfinder, turn off stuff you aren't using, and charge your boat when its not in the water. Is it ideal? Maybe not for some people, but it works for me.
Renegade, what are the specs on your trolling motor batteries (amphours etc) just curious cause Im wondering if the dealer used smaller less capable batteries in order to make things fit in my boat.
On 6/1/2018 at 12:45 AM, Hattrick said:I'll post a pic when I get one from dealer. My guess is they rotated the batteries 90 to fit
Renegade, what are the specs on your trolling motor batteries (amphours etc) just curious cause Im wondering if the dealer used smaller less capable batteries in order to make things fit in my boat.
I think if they somehow managed to fit 4 batteries they're probably group 24 size, maybe group 27... no way group 31s would fit.
I requested all group 31s, dealer said he would try to make them fit if at all possible and that it was probably overkill.
On 5/31/2018 at 11:11 PM, RenegadeBassin said:I am not really sure how 4 batterys could fit in there unless they upgraded the compartment? There's no way I could fit 4 in mine!
And thats before I rearranged it all to fit two power pole pumps
Here's the pic they sent me. Looks like they all fit well. Picking her up tomorrow morning. Will be installing my charger myself but should fit fine.
Sweet, looks like I should be able to get 4 in mine as well !
Mine are group 27's and I had to hang them over the bildge area on a custom tray that I made to fit. They were to long to fit in that way with the back walls.
Thanks Renegade, Yep mine are 27s also so everything worked out perfect and there's room for my 3 bank charger. Here she is after I drove her home today.
On 5/31/2018 at 11:38 PM, J Francho said:Every boat I've owned, I run the graphs off the cranker without issues.
Just for contrast, not because @J Franchois wrong, I'll offer these:
Because of the first bullet point above, and the fact that I am often on remote lakes by myself, I decided to isolate my electronics from my cranking battery to eliminate any risk of running that battery too low. Works great, and as a side benefit, I've never seen better images on my electronics. With the electronics completely isolated from the "boat" stuff, there's much less opportunity for any kind of interference.
All of the above have root causes than can be solved (or at least reduced) by methods other than adding a battery and charger and wiring for a separate system, and there's probably at least tens of thousands of folks who have done so. I had the room and the money to add a 5th battery to my boat, it works great and it gives me peace of mind. It is far from the only solution, and could easily not be the best solution...but it sure is nice...
If they could fit 3 27s and a cranking battery in hattrick's they can in mine too? If that's the case I'll plan on two for the TM and one dedicated for my HB's. I am of the same mindset when it comes to many of the benefits further north recapped above.
On 6/3/2018 at 9:40 AM, Janderson45 said:If they could fit 3 27s and a cranking battery in hattrick's they can in mine too? If that's the case I'll plan on two for the TM and one dedicated for my HB's. I am of the same mindset when it comes to many of the benefits further north recapped above.
I don't mean to be prescriptive, or indicate that anyone who is running electronics off their cranking battery is doing even the slightest thing wrong...as I said there's at least tens of thousands of folks doing this who are just fine, and will be, forever.
It's just that what happened to me was sobbering...we had to go about 8 miles back to the lodge on a Canadian lake on the trolling motor at about 4:00 PM...after fishing on the trolling motor hard since 8:00 am that morning...had I not been running a 36 volt system, I'm not 100% sure we'd have made it back. Would they have come looking for us? Sure. Could my boat and thousands of dollars in gear been pushed up on rocks by the wind and sunken/lost before they got there? You bet. Could we have been hurt along way? Unlikely, but maybe.
I'm embarrassed to have had to deal with the situation, but it taught me to go belt and suspenders on the water, these days. I hope others can benefit from my telling of the story.
...I also carry a portable jump battery. probably belt, suspenders and an extra pair of pants...but I've got peace of mind...
Maybe the battery compartment is bigger in the 1775? Hattrick's fit so if they offer you that option than I am sure you can do it as well! They definitely could have made it bigger for 2018 cause that was the one thing I didn't like about mine and maybe the received a lot of feedback saying the same.
On 6/3/2018 at 9:40 AM, Janderson45 said:If they could fit 3 27s and a cranking battery in hattrick's they can in mine too? If that's the case I'll plan on two for the TM and one dedicated for my HB's. I am of the same mindset when it comes to many of the benefits further north recapped above.
I think it's the same size as the 1875 and same size as the 2017 models. I noticed the difference with the layout is that my dealer slid the cranking battery all the way to the sidewall where your charger is located. That left room to put 2 batteries lengthwise and the last one fit laterally and also left enough room on the fuel tank wall for me to mount my 3 bank minn kota charger which is 12" long and 4" tall.
I had to remove two batteries to mount my charger and it was hell getting them back in with the charger mounted but it did fit.. barely lol.
Awesome news.... not really. I took my new Renegade out yesterday for the first time to start an hour long break in session. She ran perfectly smooth the entire hour then all of the sudden the 90hp Merc started acting like my old 2 stroke. Running rough and sputtering RPM. I made it a whole 1 hour with the mercury before I had to shut her down and trolled on the Ultrex 2 hours to the boat ramp. Thank God I had the 36V cause I wouldn't have made it otherwise. The batteries were about 30% when I finally got home. As for what she gave me when she was running smooth. 4 blade spitfire was only getting 40mph max at 5100-5200RPM. Could only trim up a little before she would start porpoising on the water. Common complaint I've heard from a bunch of other Renegade owners. Probably a couple weeks atleast till I get the boat back and start worrying about tweaking anything.
If it wasn't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all.
That's not good...and the batteries don't sound great. You should be able to run them pretty much all day and still have half you capacity or better left.
On that day above where I had to make it back to camp on my Terrova, I still had plenty of battery left.
Well they were at 12.1V when I got home. I don't know... she ran almost 2.5 hours of 8-10 speed. I may have had another hour at best just based off Ultrex amp draw and amp hour on the batteries.
On 6/10/2018 at 4:52 AM, Hattrick said:Well they were at 12.1V when I got home. I don't know... she ran almost 2.5 hours of 8-10 speed. I may have had another hour at best just based off Ultrex amp draw and amp hour on the batteries.
I can't tell you where mine are usually when I get home, but I've run them all day, two days in a row without a charge.
Seemed weird to me.
Finally after almost 3 long months she's home. Too bad the dealership couldn't register it. Will have to wait a few days for the maiden voyage.
On 6/10/2018 at 8:47 AM, Jibber82 said:Finally after almost 3 long months she's home. Too bad the dealership couldn't register it. Will have to wait a few days for the maiden voyage.
Wicked cool rig there! Enjoy!
On 6/10/2018 at 3:59 AM, Hattrick said:Awesome news.... not really. I took my new Renegade out yesterday for the first time to start an hour long break in session. She ran perfectly smooth the entire hour then all of the sudden the 90hp Merc started acting like my old 2 stroke. Running rough and sputtering RPM. I made it a whole 1 hour with the mercury before I had to shut her down and trolled on the Ultrex 2 hours to the boat ramp. Thank God I had the 36V cause I wouldn't have made it otherwise. The batteries were about 30% when I finally got home. As for what she gave me when she was running smooth. 4 blade spitfire was only getting 40mph max at 5100-5200RPM. Could only trim up a little before she would start porpoising on the water. Common complaint I've heard from a bunch of other Renegade owners. Probably a couple weeks atleast till I get the boat back and start worrying about tweaking anything.
If it wasn't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all.
Sorry to hear about that Hattrick, I hope your dealer takes good care of you since that definitely shouldn't happen. As far as the porpoising goes, I recall during my break in if I didn't trim up my outboard how the boat wanted me to it would porpoise a little, but I've learned how to do it so it doesn't happen. I think you will just have to feel it out and then you won't have any more issues. For me I have to do it slowly, I can't just hold my trim button until its at the sweetspot cause if I do it too fast I sometimes get a little porpoising. I edge it up a little at a time until I'm right where I want to be and it works. Best of luck to you.
Question for you guys? Are you using a transom saver when towing?
On 6/12/2018 at 12:35 AM, Jibber82 said:Question for you guys? Are you using a transom saver when towing?
No. Having had three different kinds break, I've come to believe they transmit shocks directly frm the trailer to the lower unit...
But I do use the M-Y Wedge to take the stress off the hydraulics: https://www.cabelas.com/product/M-YWEDGE-MOTOR-SUPPORT/2030926.uts?productVariantId=4220019&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=04201272&rid=20&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwqqP8KHM2wIVRp7ACh0BjAbUEAQYBSABEgLMcvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Someone will likely jump in with experience that they've towed for years with a transom saver, and you should listed to them as well. I just went with what happened to me.
There are also folks who run with the support built into the motor. I'd listen to it all and make your own choice.
Thanks Further. That M-Y Wedge looks like a great option.
On 6/12/2018 at 3:03 AM, Jibber82 said:Thanks Further. That M-Y Wedge looks like a great option.
I like it, and I think it's it's easier to deal with than the transom savers.
On 6/12/2018 at 3:26 AM, Further North said:I like it, and I think it's it's easier to deal with than the transom savers.
I use a transom saver - don't really love it but I haven't found anything else that will work for me.
Do like the M-Y Wedge - even ordered two (sorry OCD) when I first took delivery of the Lund.
Just didn't fit - the long shaft Optimax does not tilt back far enough to make sufficient space to accommodate even the shortest wedge. The Owner refunded my $$ no problem.
May revisit it once I re-power this fall.
A-Jay
On 6/12/2018 at 4:00 AM, A-Jay said:Do like the M-Y Wedge - even ordered two (sorry OCD) when I first took delivery of the Lund.
That's hilarious. I use two of them... ????
I have a my wedge on my little motor. It was too long, so I cut it down to fit.
On 6/12/2018 at 4:51 AM, Tim Kelly said:I have a my wedge on my little motor. It was too long, so I cut it down to fit.
I thought of that -
However after the necessary length reduction, I wouldn't have had sufficient rubber material left.
Unit would have been bottoming out on the "Plastic" cylinder.
Like the concept though.
A-Jay
I use a transom saver and haven't had any issues. I hate it though cause its no fun crawling under my motor to hook it up to my trailer right after I've pulled my boat out of the water and the ground is all wet, and my livewell is draining out its contents which sometimes consist of chunks of whatever was in the stomachs of the fish I had in there. Kind of a necessary evil though until motor mate comes out with a model that fits the new fourstrokes
edit: I guess they aren't really the new fourstrokes anymore are they @A-Jay, there's a new outboard in town soon to be on the back of your pro-v ????
On 6/12/2018 at 8:33 PM, RenegadeBassin said:I use a transom saver and haven't had any issues. I hate it though cause its no fun crawling under my motor to hook it up to my trailer right after I've pulled my boat out of the water and the ground is all wet, and my livewell is draining out its contents which sometimes consist of chunks of whatever was in the stomachs of the fish I had in there. Kind of a necessary evil though until motor mate comes out with a model that fits the new fourstrokes
edit: I guess they aren't really the new fourstrokes anymore are they @A-Jay, there's a new outboard in town soon to be on the back of your pro-v ????
@RenegadeBassin Yes Sir ~ If we can call October soon . . . .
(not soon enough for this guy)
That Renegade is a Sweet Rig and there's a good chance that 4 stroke paved the way for whatever ends up hanging off the back of mine. So I'm a fan.
btw - I feel the same way about the transom saver - but I kind of like kneeling in the crayfish parts and half digested perch torsos. Means I had a good day.
Working in a clean wet spot is what's bogus . . .
A-Jay
Hi Renegade. Thanks for the info. I got the Shorelander trailer which has a brake light in the middle of the rear or the trailer where the transom saver would rest. I believe you do not have the Shorelander trailer. Is that right? if you do have the middle brake light which transom saver are you using? Either way I ordered the M-Y Wedge Universal which works for the 115 Pro XS. The Regular M-Y Wedge is not compatible with the 115. I'll let you know how I like it.
On 6/12/2018 at 8:58 PM, Jibber82 said:Hi Renegade. Thanks for the info. I got the Shorelander trailer which has a brake light in the middle of the rear or the trailer where the transom saver would rest. I believe you do not have the Shorelander trailer. It that right? if you do have the middle brake light which transom saver are you using?
I do have that trailer and had that issue. I had to redrill the bracket that you put on the trailer and fasten it to the underneath part of that center bar. If I remember correctly there is already a bolt under there holding in some piece of plastic or something. I redrilled a hole in the bracket that that bolt fit through which allowed me to fasten it under the brake light. The bolt is slightly bigger than the pre-drilled hole. I can't really take any pictures because my boat is in the water for the week and I left my trailer at a friends house on the lake since she has a good spot for it, but if you imagine that bar going across the back of the trailer, the bracket is fastened upside down underneath it like an upside down "U". You can then put the transome saver in it and secure it in place with the pin and it still has enough movement to swing up under the lower unit. I bought mine from my dealer cause he had it right on the shelf and the brand is Springfield.
On 6/12/2018 at 8:33 PM, RenegadeBassin said:I use a transom saver and haven't had any issues. I hate it though cause its no fun crawling under my motor to hook it up to my trailer right after I've pulled my boat out of the water and the ground is all wet, and my livewell is draining out its contents which sometimes consist of chunks of whatever was in the stomachs of the fish I had in there. Kind of a necessary evil though until motor mate comes out with a model that fits the new fourstrokes
On 6/12/2018 at 8:57 PM, A-Jay said:btw - I feel the same way about the transom saver - but I kind of like kneeling in the crayfish parts and half digested perch torsos. Means I had a good day.
????
...another reason I'll stick with the M-Y Wedge.
Ok stupid question for you guys with Renegades. The cover comes with 3 poles where do the poles actually insert into the boat, in the seat holes (only 2) or the light holes?
Mine did not come with a cover ☹️
On 6/13/2018 at 2:51 AM, RenegadeBassin said:Mine did not come with a cover ☹️
Haha. No problem. Maybe someone with a Lund boat will chime in. I'm sure the way these things work is pretty universal.
Most likely the seat posts.
I have A shorelander trailer with the center light and use the extreme max transom saver. It comes with a bracket that attaches to the existing bolt on the trailer and " twists " into place. To attach or remove, turn the TS 180 degrees. No crawling under the trailer. It also adjusts for length. I have a 50 Mercury and am very happy with the TS. Here's a pic of how it attaches. The end of the TS spirals into a slot on the bracket.
On 6/13/2018 at 2:38 AM, Jibber82 said:Ok stupid question for you guys with Renegades. The cover comes with 3 poles where do the poles actually insert into the boat, in the seat holes (only 2) or the light holes?
I rig mine like this . . . . One up forward about 2/3' the height of the console wind screens.
And the other two on the main deck behind the consoles - height is a bit higher than the wind screens.
I place 'pool noodles' over the wind screens to protect the cover
And before you ask - No I don't usually rig the cover out on the lake.
Another BR member asked how I did it and I set this up for the pic on the way in last fall.
A-Jay
On 6/13/2018 at 3:19 AM, jbmaine said:I have A shorelander trailer with the center light and use the extreme max transom saver. It comes with a bracket that attaches to the existing bolt on the trailer and " twists " into place. To attach or remove, turn the TS 180 degrees. No crawling under the trailer. It also adjusts for length. I have a 50 Mercury and am very happy with the TS. Here's a pic of how it attaches. The end of the TS spirals into a slot on the bracket.
I have the same make trailer & the same transom saver bracket.
A-Jay
On 6/13/2018 at 3:24 AM, A-Jay said:I rig mine like this . . . . One up forward about 2/3' the height of the console wind screens.
And the other two on the main deck behind the consoles - height is a bit higher than the wind screens.
I place 'pool noodles' over the wind screens to protect the cover
And before you ask - No I don't usually rig the cover out on the lake.
Another BR member asked how I did it and I set this up for the pic on the way in last fall.
A-Jay
I have the same make trailer & the same transom saver bracket.
A-Jay
Ok thanks A-Jay. So the poles don't actually insert into the boat anywhere. They just go wherever you want them I guess. I will have to play with it. Are you able to tow the boat at highway speed with the cover on?
On 6/13/2018 at 3:48 AM, Jibber82 said:Ok thanks A-Jay. So the poles don't actually insert into the boat anywhere. They just go wherever you want them I guess. I will have to play with it. Are you able to tow the boat at highway speed with the cover on?
Absolutely ~
I have to take off the Fortrex to facilitate proper cover fit however.
It's on a quick slide bracket so it's quick & easy.
A-Jay
On 5/31/2018 at 1:03 AM, Hattrick said:Looks like the dealer is offering the 36V 112lb Ultrex as a free upgrade since they don't have the 80lb Ultrex in house... I'm worried about space in the back storage compartment and where 4 batteries and a charger will fit. Any thoughts? Too much?
I have a 36 volt Maxxum 101 and have never thought; I wish I had less power.
On 6/11/2018 at 7:31 PM, RenegadeBassin said:Sorry to hear about that Hattrick, I hope your dealer takes good care of you since that definitely shouldn't happen. As far as the porpoising goes, I recall during my break in if I didn't trim up my outboard how the boat wanted me to it would porpoise a little, but I've learned how to do it so it doesn't happen. I think you will just have to feel it out and then you won't have any more issues. For me I have to do it slowly, I can't just hold my trim button until its at the sweetspot cause if I do it too fast I sometimes get a little porpoising. I edge it up a little at a time until I'm right where I want to be and it works. Best of luck to you.
Good news. It was a false alarm. I had some air in my fuel line and it took a fresh tank of gas and several minutes to clear out but all is well with my motor now! WOOHOO!
On 6/13/2018 at 2:38 AM, Jibber82 said:Ok stupid question for you guys with Renegades. The cover comes with 3 poles where do the poles actually insert into the boat, in the seat holes (only 2) or the light holes?
Hey Jibber, I use a my wedge on my Renegade as well. So much nicer and faster than my old transom saver I use to use on my last boat. As for the cover, A-Jay is spot on. There are buttons on the underside of the cover that the posts snap into. I have one standing up dead center on the casting deck and the other on the back casting deck.
@Hattrick if you get a chance will you post a link for the wedge that fits these fourstrokes a lot of us have, sounds like I may want to take a look at one.
On 6/13/2018 at 9:30 AM, Hattrick said:Good news. It was a false alarm. I had some air in my fuel line and it took a fresh tank of gas and several minutes to clear out but all is well with my motor now! WOOHOO!
Hey Jibber, I use a my wedge on my Renegade as well. So much nicer and faster than my old transom saver I use to use on my last boat. As for the cover, A-Jay is spot on. There are buttons on the underside of the cover that the posts snap into. I have one standing up dead center on the casting deck and the other on the back casting deck.
That is great to hear that it was a false alarm. Glad your motor is OK! Thanks for the info very much appreciated!
On 6/13/2018 at 7:25 PM, RenegadeBassin said:@Hattrick if you get a chance will you post a link for the wedge that fits these fourstrokes a lot of us have, sounds like I may want to take a look at one.
Here is the link to the M-Y Wedge. For the 115 Pro XS I bought the M-Y Wedge Universal http://www.m-ywedge.com/order-today.html Here is the link to the amazon reviews: https://www.amazon.com/M-Y-Wedge-Universal-Outboard-Trailering/product-reviews/B01D1RYZG8
Yep Jibber's got it! We need to buy the M-Y Wedge universal model.
Bought mine at Cabelas in store.
https://www.cabelas.com/product/M-YWEDGE-MOTOR-SUPPORT/2030926.uts?slotId=0
OK just got back from taking her out for her second hour of break in. Outboard is butter smooth thankfully no issues. How much water if at all are you renegade owners draining out of hull when you pull her out of the water? Gotta a couple pints over a 5 hour trip. Not to concerned but may fill hull with water to see where some water maybe be getting in.
Don't fill the hull with water unless you've exhausted every other option. Puts a huge amount of strain on the trailer and the hull adding all that weight!. Firstly, check the drain plug. If it's the screw in type, put a little silicone grease round the O ring and tighten it up really snug. If that doesn't help, then pay close attention to the livewell hose connections and the through hull connections. Do a process of elimination of the fittings. The least likely place for a new boat to be leaking is through the construction of the hull.
On 6/16/2018 at 5:06 AM, Hattrick said:OK just got back from taking her out for her second hour of break in. Outboard is butter smooth thankfully no issues. How much water if at all are you renegade owners draining out of hull when you pull her out of the water? Gotta a couple pints over a 5 hour trip. Not to concerned but may fill hull with water to see where some water maybe be getting in.
I would check all the plumbing connections first before I filled it with water.
Took my Renegade out today to start the break in. Boat is freaking awesome! Only thing I was concerned with and maybe Renegade and any others with the 115 can chime in here but at full throttle I was only getting about 5300 rpm and about 46 mph. I thought this motor was supposed to top out at 6300 rpm. Is there like a safety break in period or something I don't know about?
5300 RPMs does seem low to me.. if set up properly I would expect to see closer to 5800rpms at WOT- but I'll let other guys with a lot more knowledge and experience about outboard performance chime in... I put an E-Tec on mine and will be interested to see how it compares to all you guys with the Merc XS.
Mine gets like 6200. Spitfire X7 17p
On 6/16/2018 at 5:06 AM, Hattrick said:OK just got back from taking her out for her second hour of break in. Outboard is butter smooth thankfully no issues. How much water if at all are you renegade owners draining out of hull when you pull her out of the water? Gotta a couple pints over a 5 hour trip. Not to concerned but may fill hull with water to see where some water maybe be getting in.
I have a Ranger RT188 with a screw in plug. Last year the tether broke off so when I had it winterized I had them put a whole new plug/bracket in. Plug looks the same but isn't as dry. The last one worked with only a snug turn. This one I have to screw in really, really tight. The last time I went out I started pumping out with my auto bilge shortly after putting in so I stuck an arm in the water and turned it one more quarter of a turn. Four hours later and I didn't have a drop when I trailered. Just one quarter of a turn was the difference between two gallons and not a drip.
On 6/17/2018 at 4:34 AM, RenegadeBassin said:Mine gets like 6200. Spitfire X7 17p
I have the stainless Spitfire X7 19p. Do you think the difference between the 17p and 19p would account for the 1000 rpm difference in WOT rpm?
On 6/16/2018 at 5:06 AM, Hattrick said:OK just got back from taking her out for her second hour of break in. Outboard is butter smooth thankfully no issues. How much water if at all are you renegade owners draining out of hull when you pull her out of the water? Gotta a couple pints over a 5 hour trip. Not to concerned but may fill hull with water to see where some water maybe be getting in.
On a new boat...I can't think of a reason why you'd have any water inside unless it was raining, or something else external put water over the sides.
My boat is an '05 and it's bone dry, every time, always has been...unless it's raining or I've done something stupid and taken water of the side or the transom.
On 6/18/2018 at 12:34 AM, Further North said:On a new boat...I can't think of a reason why you'd have any water inside unless it was raining, or something else external put water over the sides.
My boat is an '05 and it's bone dry, every time, always has been...unless it's raining or I've done something stupid and taken water of the side or the transom.
Yeah took her out today with the family and barely anything came out. I'm pretty sure it was rain water that was trapped from a few rain storms while my boat was at the dealer. Boat ramp is steeper the the driveway so I didn't get it all out until my first trip after the dealer. No biggie.
On 6/18/2018 at 5:47 AM, Hattrick said:Yeah took her out today with the family and barely anything came out. I'm pretty sure it was rain water that was trapped from a few rain storms while my boat was at the dealer. Boat ramp is steeper the the driveway so I didn't get it all out until my first trip after the dealer. No biggie.
That'll do it. Glad it was better!
On 6/17/2018 at 6:16 AM, Jibber82 said:I have the stainless Spitfire X7 19p. Do you think the difference between the 17p and 19p would account for the 1000 rpm difference in WOT rpm?
Some of these other more knowledgable guys may know for sure but I'm pretty sure the average rpm increase by going down one incriment in pitch is 200 rpms. I wouldn't go any lower than a 17p though I think there has to be another reason why you are only getting 5300. Right now I am getting around 49-50 mph, but I had my boat out at my camp all weekend and my dad told me that he thinks my powerpoles may be dragging a little. I had never noticed cause I'm always driving the boat, but he was following me in his and said he saw some abnormal spray coming up. I have them set as low as they'll go. I'm interested to see what kind of performance increase I'll see when I raise them up. Maybe nothing...but we'll see!
On 6/18/2018 at 7:29 PM, RenegadeBassin said:Some of these other more knowledgable guys may know for sure but I'm pretty sure the average rpm increase by going down one incriment in pitch is 200 rpms. I wouldn't go any lower than a 17p though I think there has to be another reason why you are only getting 5300. Right now I am getting around 49-50 mph, but I had my boat out at my camp all weekend and my dad told me that he thinks my powerpoles may be dragging a little. I had never noticed cause I'm always driving the boat, but he was following me in his and said he saw some abnormal spray coming up. I have them set as low as they'll go. I'm interested to see what kind of performance increase I'll see when I raise them up. Maybe nothing...but we'll see!
Ok thanks for the info. I do have a pretty significant rooster tail coming from the SI transducer. Maybe that has something to do with it.
On 6/10/2018 at 8:47 AM, Jibber82 said:Finally after almost 3 long months she's home. Too bad the dealership couldn't register it. Will have to wait a few days for the maiden voyage.
Hey Jibber, something I just noticed in this pic. I have my Minn Kota charger mounted in the same spot you have your charger. Both of us have our chargers mounted directly to the aluminum. Are you worried at all about electrolysis? I'm thinking about returning the Minn Kota and going with the smaller Noco Genius mini that will give me enough space to mount it to wood or plastic do no corrosion forms. What are your thoughts?
On 6/18/2018 at 9:02 PM, Hattrick said:Hey Jibber, something I just noticed in this pic. I have my Minn Kota charger mounted in the same spot you have your charger. Both of us have our chargers mounted directly to the aluminum. Are you worried at all about electrolysis? I'm thinking about returning the Minn Kota and going with the smaller Noco Genius mini that will give me enough space to mount it to wood or plastic do no corrosion forms. What are your thoughts?
To be honest with you electrolysis never crossed my mind. Is this something to worry about? I will most likely leave it as is and keep an eye on it. The charger is working perfectly.
Well it never crossed mine either but after reading the install instructions that Minn Kota provided they recommend mounting the charger to something other than aluminum... problem is there is no room to do that. The dealer was just going to install the charger straight to aluminum as well. I thought about it a little more today and I think we're OK. As long as the charger is not mounted to hull structure we have time to observe any corrosion that might possibly form on the fuel cell divider. Worst case scenario if you see corrosion starting to form around the base of the charger just pull it out and grind corrosion down and install a smaller Noco Genius style charger that you can easily mount to vinyl or wood.
Quick question for you guys that own an 1875- what is the measurement (length) from console to the front of the TM tray? Trying to figure out if I can get away with 10' Ethernet cables or if I need the 20' cable to link console and bow Humminbirds?
I have 2 helix units to mount on the boat and am likely going to buy a third and link them all in with the Ultrex... haven't quite figured out my placement preferences yet other than the helix 10 Mega SI that's definitely going to be mounted at the console (on a precision sonar mount). Additionally I have a helix 7SI G2N, and am likely adding a third graph that's either 7" or 9"... what would you guys recommend? If I stick the helix 7 SI at the bow would you supplement it with another 7" graph, or at I better off having two graphs at the console and one larger 9" graph at the bow? How important is SI at the bow? Since I've got the Ultrex w/ link I plan on taking full advantage of the auto pilot and follow the contour features, I'm thinking SI at the bow would be quite useful since the Ultrex would only be making small incremental adjustments? But maybe I'm not looking at it right..
Original plan was for a 10" and 7" graph at the console for constant SI, CHIRP and maps, and then a 9" unit for sonar/maps and DI at the bow... I still can't decide if this is what I really want or not though! What I really would like is the helix 10 Mega SI at the console and the bow but that's out of the question at the moment as I've already blown my budget for this boat out of the water (no pun intended)
On 6/20/2018 at 9:11 PM, Janderson45 said:Quick question for you guys that own an 1875- what is the measurement (length) from console to the front of the TM tray? Trying to figure out if I can get away with 10' Ethernet cables or if I need the 20' cable to link console and bow Humminbirds?
I have 2 helix units to mount on the boat and am likely going to buy a third and link them all in with the Ultrex... haven't quite figured out my placement preferences yet other than the helix 10 Mega SI that's definitely going to be mounted at the console (on a precision sonar mount). Additionally I have a helix 7SI G2N, and am likely adding a third graph that's either 7" or 9"... what would you guys recommend? If I stick the helix 7 SI at the bow would you supplement it with another 7" graph, or at I better off having two graphs at the console and one larger 9" graph at the bow? How important is SI at the bow? Since I've got the Ultrex w/ link I plan on taking full advantage of the auto pilot and follow the contour features, I'm thinking SI at the bow would be quite useful since the Ultrex would only be making small incremental adjustments? But maybe I'm not looking at it right..
Original plan was for a 10" and 7" graph at the console for constant SI, CHIRP and maps, and then a 9" unit for sonar/maps and DI at the bow... I still can't decide if this is what I really want or not though! What I really would like is the helix 10 Mega SI at the console and the bow but that's out of the question at the moment as I've already blown my budget for this boat out of the water (no pun intended)
I run one bigger screen on the bow and a big screen and small screen at the console. I use my 7 for mapping and my 10 for SI and everything else. One thing I have learned from this process is unless you fish really popular lakes all the time, you may not even have a map at all. I have two map cards and still only get info for like 2 of the several lakes I fish. But I also live in Maine so I guess I shouldn't of had high expectations. I should've just bought the zero lines card and done a bunch of mapping myself.
I personally have never used SI at the bow. If fish slow, so it wouldn't even work anyway since most the time my boat is stopped or barely drifting. I don't have an ultrex though. I don't know the measurements from the bow to the console but I'm not sure you'd be able to get away with ten foot cables. I guess it would depend on where your ethernet switch is.
On 6/20/2018 at 9:11 PM, Janderson45 said:Quick question for you guys that own an 1875- what is the measurement (length) from console to the front of the TM tray? Trying to figure out if I can get away with 10' Ethernet cables or if I need the 20' cable to link console and bow Humminbirds?
I have 2 helix units to mount on the boat and am likely going to buy a third and link them all in with the Ultrex... haven't quite figured out my placement preferences yet other than the helix 10 Mega SI that's definitely going to be mounted at the console (on a precision sonar mount). Additionally I have a helix 7SI G2N, and am likely adding a third graph that's either 7" or 9"... what would you guys recommend? If I stick the helix 7 SI at the bow would you supplement it with another 7" graph, or at I better off having two graphs at the console and one larger 9" graph at the bow? How important is SI at the bow? Since I've got the Ultrex w/ link I plan on taking full advantage of the auto pilot and follow the contour features, I'm thinking SI at the bow would be quite useful since the Ultrex would only be making small incremental adjustments? But maybe I'm not looking at it right..
Original plan was for a 10" and 7" graph at the console for constant SI, CHIRP and maps, and then a 9" unit for sonar/maps and DI at the bow... I still can't decide if this is what I really want or not though! What I really would like is the helix 10 Mega SI at the console and the bow but that's out of the question at the moment as I've already blown my budget for this boat out of the water (no pun intended)
I have a Helix 10 DI at the bow and a Helix 10 SI at the console. The DI transducer is the TM transducer and is mounted on the Ultrex while the SI transducer is mounted on the transom. Since everything is networked I can see the data from any transducer on any screen. I also have my console unit on the Precision Sonar mount (awesome very solid mount BTW). I used the 15' Ethernet cable and have the Ethernet switch located inside the console. RenegadeBassin also used the 15' cable (he said so on page 4 of this thread).
If you have everything networked you certainly don't need an SI unit at the bow if you already have one at the console since you'll be able to see the SI data from the transom SI transducer on the bow unit. It would make more sense to have a DI unit at the bow with a DI transducer mounted on the Ultrex since this will give you DI data directly beneath the TM. If I was you I would put the 10 SI in the console on the Precision mount and ram mount the 7 to the side at the console. Then get another 10 DI for the bow.
Alternatively, you could flush mount the 7 in the console and ram mount the 10 to the side of the console like Renegade did. This would eliminate the need for the Precision mount. You will still need another unit for the bow though.
Good luck!
Hey Renegade are you able to get a depth reading from your transom SI transducer when on plane? If so would you mind posting a pic of your transducer mounting location (front and side view)? It would be a huge help!! I can't get a reading on plane and I'm getting a huge rooster tail too.
On 6/21/2018 at 2:38 AM, Jibber82 said:Hey Renegade are you able to get a depth reading from your transom SI transducer when on plane? If so would you mind posting a pic of your transducer mounting location (front and side view)? It would be a huge help!! I can't get a reading on plane and I'm getting a huge rooster tail too.
I can't get a reading on plane either. From what I've seen on here and other websites it looks like mine is in a good spot, but the readings are all off as soon as I speed up.
On 6/21/2018 at 2:42 AM, RenegadeBassin said:I can't get a reading on plane either. From what I've seen on here and other websites it looks like mine is in a good spot, but the readings are all off as soon as I speed up.
Ok good to know. I think mine is also in a good spot but my readings are crazy too as soon as I speed up. I am thinking about getting an AlumaDucer and seeing how that works. If I do it I'll post an update.
On 6/21/2018 at 2:38 AM, Jibber82 said:Hey Renegade are you able to get a depth reading from your transom SI transducer when on plane? If so would you mind posting a pic of your transducer mounting location (front and side view)? It would be a huge help!! I can't get a reading on plane and I'm getting a huge rooster tail too.
SI transducers and aluminum hulls don't play well together for on plane depth readings. If on plane depth readings are a necessity, get an alumaducer
Too me its just not very important. Right now I am having a lot of fun playing with autochart live. Tried it out for the first time yesterday and its pretty cool to just be able to idle around and map the entirety of the lake I live on. Since the lakes around me are all pretty small, I am going to try to autochart as many as I can!
On 6/21/2018 at 8:33 AM, slonezp said:SI transducers and aluminum hulls don't play well together for on plane depth readings. If on plane depth readings are a necessity, get an alumaducer
No kidding.
It took me four tries to get this one right, and I lucked into it when I moved it to make room for a 2D transducer...
But what I lucked into really works well:
Interesting discussion, I'm playing around with the idea of using a Vexilar for on plane depth readings and real time depth changes... also saw earlier this year how a pro I fished with down on Okeechobee used a flasher to locate bottom and bait in heavy vegetation... if I don't end up using a flasher I'll definitely look into the alumaducer for thru-hull 2d sonar while the boat is one plane..
On 6/22/2018 at 12:36 AM, Further North said:No kidding.
It took me four tries to get this one right, and I lucked into it when I moved it to make room for a 2D transducer...
But what I lucked into really works well:
Long Lake eh? ????
On 6/22/2018 at 2:31 AM, 12poundbass said:Long Lake eh? ????
I've been known to mess with GPS read outs. I use Photoshop as part of my job...
So...yeah, you should go fish Long Lake. ????
On 6/22/2018 at 2:27 AM, Janderson45 said:Interesting discussion, I'm playing around with the idea of using a Vexilar for on plane depth readings and real time depth changes... also saw earlier this year how a pro I fished with down on Okeechobee used a flasher to locate bottom and bait in heavy vegetation... if I don't end up using a flasher I'll definitely look into the alumaducer for thru-hull 2d sonar while the boat is one plane..
You can do that, but it adds an extra piece of gear on deck.
I just added a dedicated 2D transducer for about $80, works great.
Just wanted to let anyone know who is thinking about re-propping their renegade that it turns out my powerpoles were dragging in the water like I thought and now that I've raised them I can hit 50 mph gps and I am hitting max RPMs. I am going to have cup added to my prop to bring the rpms down a little bit and maybe gain a little more speed but if you don't have a lot of extra weight on your boat I would probably not get a 17p spitfire x7 like I have because you will probably be hitting the rpm limiter. I think once I get the cup added I will have it dialed in just about perfectly but you would probably get the same results by just staying at a 19p. I hope everyone is enjoying their boats!
On 7/10/2018 at 7:17 PM, RenegadeBassin said:Just wanted to let anyone know who is thinking about re-propping their renegade that it turns out my powerpoles were dragging in the water like I thought and now that I've raised them I can hit 50 mph gps and I am hitting max RPMs. I am going to have cup added to my prop to bring the rpms down a little bit and maybe gain a little more speed but if you don't have a lot of extra weight on your boat I would probably not get a 17p spitfire x7 like I have because you will probably be hitting the rpm limiter. I think once I get the cup added I will have it dialed in just about perfectly but you would probably get the same results by just staying at a 19p. I hope everyone is enjoying their boats!
I have the same boat same motor no power poles and the 19p Spitfire X7 and I get max 5300 rpm and 46.5 mph (gps) with a 1/4 tank and only me in the boat. And that's on water like glass with the trim juuuusst right.
I'm reading the RPM off the digital Mercury Smartcraft gauge and the speed off a Helix 10.
On 7/13/2018 at 3:12 AM, Jibber82 said:I have the same boat same motor no power poles and the 19p Spitfire X7 and I get max 5300 rpm and 46.5 mph (gps) with a 1/4 tank and only me in the boat. And that's on water like glass with the trim juuuusst right.
I'm reading the RPM off the digital Mercury Smartcraft gauge and the speed off a Helix 10.
Motor might be too low
On 7/13/2018 at 3:12 AM, Jibber82 said:I have the same boat same motor no power poles and the 19p Spitfire X7 and I get max 5300 rpm and 46.5 mph (gps) with a 1/4 tank and only me in the boat. And that's on water like glass with the trim juuuusst right.
I'm reading the RPM off the digital Mercury Smartcraft gauge and the speed off a Helix 10.
Like @slonezp said, I'd take a look at what hole your motor is in and I can look at mine when I go home for lunch and I'll let you know where its at.
I trim mine up basically as high as it will let me on plane. I've noticed it only goes a certain distance then it won't go any more, even though it seems like I could maybe get a little more speed if it let me go a tiny bit higher. Is that a standard feature or is my trim messed up? I've also found that if I partially fill my livewell, it actually allows for more bow lift and a tiny bit more speed. I wouldn't worry about doing that for day to day fishing, but its fun to do when I am trying to see how fast I can get her to go on a nice calm day.
On 7/13/2018 at 7:36 PM, RenegadeBassin said:
Like @slonezp said, I'd take a look at what hole your motor is in and I can look at mine when I go home for lunch and I'll let you know where its at.
I trim mine up basically as high as it will let me on plane. I've noticed it only goes a certain distance then it won't go any more, even though it seems like I could maybe get a little more speed if it let me go a tiny bit higher. Is that a standard feature or is my trim messed up? I've also found that if I partially fill my livewell, it actually allows for more bow lift and a tiny bit more speed. I wouldn't worry about doing that for day to day fishing, but its fun to do when I am trying to see how fast I can get her to go on a nice calm day.
The trim stop is a safety feature.
On 7/13/2018 at 7:36 PM, RenegadeBassin said:
Like @slonezp said, I'd take a look at what hole your motor is in and I can look at mine when I go home for lunch and I'll let you know where its at.
I trim mine up basically as high as it will let me on plane. I've noticed it only goes a certain distance then it won't go any more, even though it seems like I could maybe get a little more speed if it let me go a tiny bit higher. Is that a standard feature or is my trim messed up? I've also found that if I partially fill my livewell, it actually allows for more bow lift and a tiny bit more speed. I wouldn't worry about doing that for day to day fishing, but its fun to do when I am trying to see how fast I can get her to go on a nice calm day.
What do you think?
On 7/23/2018 at 9:08 PM, Jibber82 said:What do you think?
I just found pictures of mine where I was showing the powerpole brackets and its in the top hole...seems like that would be too low and that you should actually be getting better performance where you are than where I am. I don't know what to think, weird.
Thanks guys this blog was a big help in choosing my new boat.
Lund Renegade 1775, Crappie setup. 90 hp Mercury, Motorguide X5i trolling motor, Garmin 9sv in the dash, Lowrance elite 7 on the front.
I put the transom saver that is exactly like the one pictured in a earlier post.
The top speed I have reached is 40 mph gps with a 13X17p prop 5300 rpm. The motor is in the highest hole so the motor is all the way down.
I was wondering if I raise the motor one hole will this increase the top end speed and reduce the propoising some?
I love it!
On 8/5/2018 at 1:13 AM, o2bfishn@frontier.com said:Thanks guys this blog was a big help in choosing my new boat.
Lund Renegade 1775, Crappie setup. 90 hp Mercury, Motorguide X5i trolling motor, Garmin 9sv in the dash, Lowrance elite 7 on the front.
I put the transom saver that is exactly like the one pictured in a earlier post.
The top speed I have reached is 40 mph gps with a 13X17p prop 5300 rpm. The motor is in the highest hole so the motor is all the way down.
I was wondering if I raise the motor one hole will this increase the top end speed and reduce the propoising some?
I love it!
Sweet rig!
On 8/5/2018 at 1:13 AM, o2bfishn@frontier.com said:Thanks guys this blog was a big help in choosing my new boat.
Lund Renegade 1775, Crappie setup. 90 hp Mercury, Motorguide X5i trolling motor, Garmin 9sv in the dash, Lowrance elite 7 on the front.
I put the transom saver that is exactly like the one pictured in a earlier post.
The top speed I have reached is 40 mph gps with a 13X17p prop 5300 rpm. The motor is in the highest hole so the motor is all the way down.
I was wondering if I raise the motor one hole will this increase the top end speed and reduce the propoising some?
I love it!
Very nice! Hopefully someone who knows a lot about that motor hole stuff can chime in because mine is also in the top hole so I'd like to know what would happen if I moved mine up one hole as well.
Raising the motor can help...but it can also have the opposite effect.
Bets to have a way to take it up and down easily (and inexpensively).
Finally towed mine home so I could prove I wasn't lying
more to follow over the next few days, just had a few quick shots from my phone to share for now.
Janderson45, I am new to the site. I would like to know where you got your boat from? I just came from a boat dealership in mass today and they told me i could only get a merc or Yamaha with the Lund 1875 renegade.
On 10/2/2018 at 11:58 AM, WhoopinBass said:Janderson45, I am new to the site. I would like to know where you got your boat from? I just came from a boat dealership in mass today and they told me i could only get a merc or Yamaha with the Lund 1875 renegade.
I purchased mine at Thayers Marine in Norwich, CT. They will certainly put an Evinrude on it for you, but it will cost more than a Mercury.
On 10/2/2018 at 11:58 AM, WhoopinBass said:Janderson45, I am new to the site. I would like to know where you got your boat from? I just came from a boat dealership in mass today and they told me i could only get a merc or Yamaha with the Lund 1875 renegade.
You can order a boat from Lund without a motor and have your dealer of choice install your motor and forward controls of choice
Little video of mine out on Lake Winnipesaukee the other weekend, been meaning to do a video walk-thru or review but haven't gotten there yet, been too busy fishing! Will have a video review posted up sometime over the coming weeks.
In depth review still coming... been too busy fishing to make vids! Overall I’d give the boat a B+ so far, generally very happy with it but do have a gripe or two.
Look forward to your thoughts on the boat.
On 10/28/2018 at 8:30 AM, Janderson45 said:In depth review still coming... been too busy fishing to make vids! Overall I’d give the boat a B+ so far, generally very happy with it but do have a gripe or two.
Nothing is perfect...will be interested in your thoughs once the season is done.
Those boats are purrrrrty!
Well.. I just got a deal too good to pass up on a pair of 8’ powerpole blades, mounting brackets and wireless footswitch, so I guess I’ll be adding a pair of poles to my rig over the winter as well. Right now the plan is to install them myself like @RenegadeBassin did- I think I even have the same same sandwich brackets that he did- biggest issue is going to be getting the outboard and jackplate off to mount the sandwich brackets.. I may have to take it to a dealer to do that. The rest seems pretty simple, with the second biggest obstacle being finding a suitable mounting spot for the pumps and running the hydraulic hoses.
@RenegadeBassin if you don’t mind me asking, how did you mount your HPUs and where did you run the hydraulic lines? Did you use access that was already available from your outboard or did you have to drill into the transom? Do you have any pics that you could share of the pumps mounted and hydraulic lines plumbed through the transom? Do you have any issues or complaints with your blades yet? Would you install them yourself again or have a professional do it second time around?
My boat is in the shop currently so I can’t crawl around it to figure out how I’m going to make all of this work, but I’ll have it back soon enough and then I’ve got all winter to figure it out.
On 12/6/2018 at 10:53 PM, Janderson45 said:Well.. I just got a deal too good to pass up on a pair of 8’ powerpole blades, mounting brackets and wireless footswitch, so I guess I’ll be adding a pair of poles to my rig over the winter as well. Right now the plan is to install them myself like @RenegadeBassin did- I think I even have the same same sandwich brackets that he did- biggest issue is going to be getting the outboard and jackplate off to mount the sandwich brackets.. I may have to take it to a dealer to do that. The rest seems pretty simple, with the second biggest obstacle being finding a suitable mounting spot for the pumps and running the hydraulic hoses.
@RenegadeBassin if you don’t mind me asking, how did you mount your HPUs and where did you run the hydraulic lines? Did you use access that was already available from your outboard or did you have to drill into the transom? Do you have any pics that you could share of the pumps mounted and hydraulic lines plumbed through the transom? Do you have any issues or complaints with your blades yet? Would you install them yourself again or have a professional do it second time around?
My boat is in the shop currently so I can’t crawl around it to figure out how I’m going to make all of this work, but I’ll have it back soon enough and then I’ve got all winter to figure it out.
Sorry for taking so long to respond, I don't check these forums much anymore because everything with my boat is working how I'd like it to! I am also working on having my first house built and that has most of my attention this winter. My 8' blades have been great and I don't have any complaints about them. I had a faulty pump and Powerpole sent me a new one no charge. Doing the install yourself is the way to go, other than the stuff involving removing the outboard from the boat. I had my dealer do that cause I didn't want to risk anything and I don't have a motor hoist. Other than that it is really simple with patience and care. The only difficult part is mounting the pumps in the bildge compartment, I had to move my batteries around and fab a custom tray so I can put them in the long way to make room for the pumps. There are pictures of how I have it laid out a few pages back on this thread (page 6 I think). My hoses fit through the pre-existing access. It was a little tough getting the fitting through but once those are through the hoses themselves are very thin and fit fine. I have a thread about the entire process on the other tin boat forum. (I like the people better on bass resource though ????)
nice looking boat, what kind of speed you get out of that? ive been looking to go to an aluminum boat, lund, ranger, and vexus are my picks.
The 1875 (18’9”) Renegade with a high output 115hp outboard & stainless prop gets +- 50mph depending on load and various other factors.
Not a speed demon, but not a slouch either. 45-50mph suits my needs well.
Yeah I've seen 50.1 on my gps since I've put my powerpoles on.
On 1/22/2019 at 8:08 PM, RenegadeBassin said:Yeah I've seen 50.1 on my gps since I've put my powerpoles on.
Can’t wait to get my poles on! Checked out your more in-depth thread on another forum and it was helpful, thanks for posting up detailed pics and thoughts on the install. That’s too bad about the Mercury warranty requiring you to use the side mount brackets off of the sandwich brackets, I’m happy that I can just use the straight sandwich brackets with an Evinrude.
On 1/22/2019 at 10:54 PM, Janderson45 said:
Can’t wait to get my poles on! Checked out your more in-depth thread on another forum and it was helpful, thanks for posting up detailed pics and thoughts on the install. That’s too bad about the Mercury warranty requiring you to use the side mount brackets off of the sandwich brackets, I’m happy that I can just use the straight sandwich brackets with an Evinrude.
Oh that will make it even easier for you! Those were kind of confusing for the install. Powerpole has great customer service and is a really great product, but their directions were a little weird. Mostly just which bolts to use, that part was confusing.
On 5/22/2018 at 3:15 AM, RenegadeBassin said:While I'm here, I have story/warning for you new boat owners like me that I don't think I've shared with you guys yet. Some of you may already know to do this but I didn't and its got my boat currently somewhat out of commission.
A couple of weekends ago I was fishing a tournament and the wind was really blowing for the morning blast off. I'm talking about 3 and 4 foot waves. I drew number 1 so I got to go first when we started and so I didn't really have anyone to watch in front of me to gauge just how big those waves were for Maine. I haven't experienced anything like that around here before. I took off across the lake at a speed that I thought was safe, but would also get me to where i wanted to go without getting passed by the entire club behind me. Well, little did I know, in situations like that you want to have a stabilizer bar under your trolling motor. I've seen them before but mine did not come with one from the factory so I didn't think I needed it. If you are going to be going through waves, GET ONE. My fortrex mount basically snapped in half from the force of those waves.
Luckily, minn kota is fixing it for me under warranty since I was not abusing it or mistreating it, I just was going through some unavoidable waves. I haven't been able to go fishing for like 2 weeks though and its driving me crazy.
My advice, if you don't have something to support the head of your trolling motor, I would seriously consider getting one. If I had had one I wouldn't be in the situation I'm in now.
@RenegadeBassin how was the ride in those 3'-4' waves? I'm considering a 1775 Renegade but I'm kinda worried about how it will do in rougher water.
Thank you,
Shayne
On 2/13/2019 at 12:06 AM, sej71 said:@RenegadeBassin how was the ride in those 3'-4' waves? I'm considering a 1775 Renegade but I'm kinda worried about how it will do in rougher water.
Thank you,
Shayne
When I did that to my trolling motor I was pushing it a little harder than I should've been. I remember after I realized it was broken and headed back to the boat launch I went a lot easier and it wasn't too bad of a ride. You're never going to have a very good time in waves that big in an aluminum boat, in my opinion, but if you take your time and be careful its not too bad. Typically on a day like that I would just not fish. We don't get waves that big up here very often at all.
Can you put Talon(s) on the 1875 and not void the hull warranty .. like Ranger says they will do if you install Talons on the RT aluminum boats? And has anyone here put Talons on their 1875?