Dropshotting my way 2024

fourbizz reply :

Many people would probably be suprised that drop shotting is possibly my favorite way to fish. I love this technique. If I am in danger of getting skunked, this rig will cure it. It is not an intricate tactic, but, the devil is in the details. This is how I dropshot on clear, deep, rocky lakes with an emphasis on application and gear, and not so much on baits. T

Rod:

Its got to be a spinning rod for me. I do not feel that line can pay out of a casting reel fast enough with a light weight to allow the rig to drop without it made to pendulum. Some people prefer a very light whippy rod, I am not one of them. The rods I like tend to be marked as Medium Light, erring more to the light side perhaps. But they have an extra fast action. This is important to me because I feel that the XF tip is more sensitive and able to tell me more of whats happening down below. I like a 7fter but i dont think length is critical. I use a Powell 702ML XF most of the time, although I own others. This is my favorite rod, that I have ever owned.

Reel

Your selection in reels should be based on only a few things. What you can afford is obviously one, there are usable reels all the way down to the $40 range. For functionality, in my mind, there are only two things that truly matter over simple preference. First major trait is the drag. Drop shotting is a technique that between the light line and small hooks means that if you get into a good fish you need a drag that will perform. Second important trait, especially if you do not follow my line recomendations, is a reel that has a very good line roller to reduce twisting. Start dropshotting in 60+ fow with mono or flouro, and a bad line roller will instantly make its presence known. I prefer 2000 size reels for this technique as I feel that they offer the perfect balance of weight, line capacity, and drag ranges. I use a Daiwa Tierra 2000 primarily and a Daiwa SOL 2500.

Line

In the running with rods as most important to your entire presentation in my opinion. This is where my style massively strays from the standard, which is 4-10lb monofilament or flourocarbon. When I made the switch to very light diameter braid and a flourocarbon leader, my dropshotting world was shaken to its core. I use 2lb diameter braid, which is 10lb test.

The first and most obvious benefit is sensitivity. With a technique that often finds you plying for un-aggressive fish, deep, with tiny baits and light weight, it should seem clear that light bites are gonna be common. In fact the most undetecable bites i have ever had have been on the drop shot. Braid really helps level the playing field for you.As a corollary to the sensitivity, there is the awesome, and much more important than it seems benefit of line resistance. With the much thinner diamter line, it is much easier to keep a nice taut line all the way to your bait when casting. This helps bite detection immensely all on its own. When fishing vertically you have the benefit of much, much shorter drop times due to reduced drag. Also when moving the bait horizontally, you do not develop a bow, and are less likely to pull the bait up out of the strike zone.

Another major bonus in my eyes is braids resistance to twisting. The dropshot is a rig that really twists line, between the long retrieves back to the surface with a spinning reel and the worm constantly spinning around your line, its a recipe for frustration. That does not happen with braid.

Yet another benefit of the braid is hooking fish. Since you have no bow in your line and no stretch a nice smooth reel set and lift sticks fish more me with a huge hookup percentage.

Finally you have the benefit of using many different lines to cater to situation without changing spools. I most commonly use 5, 8, and 10lb flourocarbon. This gives you a nice, lo vis, but high abrasion resistance leader.

I use ONLY Sufix 10lb Braid, and use flourocarbons from Maxima, Seaguar and Sunline. WHEW, the dude is long winded about line isnt he? ;D

Hooks

Hooks are obviously an important part of the game, principally their sharpness. I very seldom texas rig a dropshot and prefer to nose hook them the vast majority of the time. Even if you are getting snagged some, I still prefer the nose hooking as I feel that the presentation is much more effective, as are the hook up ratios. Pick a company reputable for their sharpness and use their dropshot/split shot hook. I prefer the Owner Mosquito in size 2 and 1.

Weights

The actual weight of the sinker and its shape are the most important to me. In incredibly rocky areas, a cylinder weight will hang up less, at the cost of reduced feel on your end. The ball weights offer you the best feel of the bottom in my opinion and to my that is more important during a tough bite than sacrificing a few weights. Whatever you choose, you want it to seperate from your rig under less pressure than it takes to break your leader. I have used everything from bell sinkers to crimp on weights of several varieties and they all work, but I always come back to the 1/4 ounce ball with clip swivel. With the light braid, 1/4 oz will let you fish 5ft or 80ft if water effectively. If you are having a hard time with weight selection, err to the side of too light.

Knots

Your knots, especially with my braid/leader setup are critical. I am a knot nerd. I am constantly checking out new knots online and burning 100's of feet off my filler spools trying them out. With this setup, you have two knots that are vital to your success. Firstly the line to leader knot. This is the big one. Tying two lines of different materials and diameters with good strength retention, ease, and function is a tough one. After trying out quite a few, sometimes elaborate knots, I found this knot, the Modified Albright or Alberto knot.

http://stripers247.com/albrightknot.php

Having used this knot for over 2 years with this and other techniques I feel comfortable saying that it meets or exceeds all of my needs and expectations. If you are gonna run braid/leader learn this knot. Period.

Your other knot will be your knot to your hook. I prefer a Palomar. There is a trick in tying this to get your hook to stand out from the line, point up. When you pass the doubled line through the eye, pass it through in a direction that goes FROM the hook point TO the hookshank. Leave at least 18 inches of tag end. After you have tied the knot, take the tag end and go back through the eye again in the direction from the point to the shank. Pull tight and you will see your knot roll down and your hook will be properly placed. You can now place your weight on your line. the distance between hook and weight will obviously be the distance your bait is fished off the bottom.

Baits

Keep it simple. A few basic colors in a few basic styles. I need a small 3.5-4" leach/reaper, a 4inch straight tailed worm, and a 6" straight tailed worm. Of course there are a myriad of baits to try, but for me, this is the core of it, and what I am fishing almost all of the time when dropshotting. You dont need every color out there, even on clear water. I like a dark green color, a brown color, a purple/pink color, and a white/shad color.

Basic Application

So simple it is difficult. Let rig drop to the bottom. Remove all slack. Your bait is now levitating up off the bottom in an oh so inviting manner. Shake your rod tip. Not hard, just give it a nice shake, with that braid, there is plenty of action being imparted. Less is more in my opinion, you need your worm to look like it has parkinson's not a seizure. After you shake, just let it sit a moment, then lift your rod tip and move the rig towards the boat a few feet and repeat. Easy to learn impossible to master.

Thats it, thats my take on the drop shot. It is a very versatile rig limited only by your imagination. A myriad of baits and applications are possible, but this is the core of my dropshotting. Not a big fish technique in my opinion, but a great, fun, challenging, and rewarding way of chasing bass.

LCpointerKILLA reply :

Do you watch it to detect bites like the pros in lake Michigan and what-not, or do you have enough feel with the braid? also, do you you think dropshotting with a really light dropshot weight over a huge hydrilla infested area would work? I could treat the top of hydrilla as if it is the bottom, and tie the worm closer to the weight (maybe 5 inches?). You have a way better sense of dropshotting, so do you see this idea potentially working out? It is the only way I could dropshot on FL. Let me know what you think, and great post, this will be a huge help for everyone who fishes "dropshottable" lakes.

Oh one more thing, how far do you cast out from the boat? Is it better to keep you casts in closer to keep the bait and weight more vertical, or can you cast it way out and work it in?

thanks fourbizz dude for taking the time to write this

Dan: reply :

Nice, fourbizz. Good read. I am just getting into drop-shotting and I was thinking about trying braid for the very same reasons you mention. Thanks.

fourbizz reply :

Quote
Do you watch it to detect bites like the pros in lake Michigan and what-not, or do you have enough feel with the braid?

Its all about the feel for me, between a high end rod, and a finger on braid, youre in good shape imo.

Quote
also, do you you think dropshotting with a really light dropshot weight over a huge hydrilla infested area would work?

It might, but you would need to change almost everything I recomended for it to work effectively in hydrilla. Rods, line, hooks all gotta be heavier and you will probably have to texas rig the plastic. think about those rubber weights, enough to cast, big profile, they might not sink through as bad.

Quote
Oh one more thing, how far do you cast out from the boat? Is it better to keep you casts in closer to keep the bait and weight more vertical, or can you cast it way out and work it in?

i fish it anywhere from directly under the TM to as far as i can cast, which with really light braid, is a long, long way. If the bites are super light, keep your casts to medium distance or less though.

BrianinMD reply :

Thank you fourbizz great information

Dan: reply :

If you are casting the rig farther away from you, wouldn't a longer bait-to-sinker distance help to keep the bait higher in the water column at the lower angle created when the sinker is farther from your rod tip?

I hope that makes sense.

fourbizz reply :

Well if you did that, would it be too long when it got closer to the boat?

I didnt really go into weight/hook distance, but I often will go with as little as 4 or 5 inches of drop. Sometimes they love that. Sometimes you gotta go 18".

I definitely understand what you are saying, but if i were positive they wanted a bait 10" off the bottom, then that is where i would set my weight. if they werent eating it till it got closer to the boat, then id stop casting so far, lol

jerbs reply :

bizz and dropshot in the same sentence

I use 10lb braid and floro leader too. awesome combo for deadstickin.

hope you've been good dood, it's been awhile. 8-)

roadwarrior reply :

WOW!

;D ;D ;D

Bassin_Fin@tic reply :

I am a total noob and the more I read the more I want to get out and do it. Thanks

Garnet reply :

I refuse to give up sight, feel, instinct in any style of fishing and dropshoting is know different.

Garnet

Daniel A. reply :

Thanks for the write-up, Bizz. Nice job keeping it simple. I'd like to gain more confidence in dropshotting this year, and your instructions will definitely help.

simplejoe reply :

Nice post Bizz, One question you said about being in clear water. Does this method also work in our murky water up here in the north?

My guess it would be more feeling of the rod and line rather than sight in this situation, I'm I close.

Bare with me I'm still learning :-[

Jimzee reply :

Jay, I didn't know you had it in you. Good read and well done, thanks.

fishizzle reply :

when you get stuck on the bottom where does the break occur?

ps. great thread

srv1990 reply :

Bizz, great post, thanks much! I've really been wanting to give drop shotting a try this year, especially at Table Rock, where it's very clear and the bite can be tough. Your insight has really helped increase my knowledge of this technique, not to mention my confidence...

Thanks again!

Tom

J Francho reply :

Fishizzle,you lose the weight, generally.

_______

Fourbizz, that is one solid approach to the rig and application. Thanks, great post.

I tend to think of "Drop Shot" as a rig, not a presentation or style. I'm pretty sure I've rigged it up on every rod I own. Well, not my trout rods, LOL. I love DS on braid as well, and 10/2 is ideal. I've also used much heavier line and a flipping stick to cannon ball the pads. A very deadly tactic with a 10" worm or Super Fluke.

While many think of the rig as a way to deliver a soft plastic to a location, and add action while keeping it in place, it solves other problems. When slow drifting either live bait (GASP!) of finesse plastics in the Great Lakes, the rig keeps the business end of your terminal tackle from getting hung, or chewed up on the zebra and quagga mussels. I will often drag a tube and a DS when fishing in Lake Ontario.

BARON49_Northern NY reply :

Great report! I too switched over to braid and found the sensitivity increased dramatically. However instead of tying directly to the leader I use a small black swivel between the main line braid and the fluoro leader. While braid does not show the twist as badly this almost eliminates any line twisting.

The other thing I discovered after a couple years of using braid was using 10 lb Fireline worked better then my favorite Power Pro. The Fireline has just a small amount of memory and stays on the spool better then the limper Power Pro.

DADto4 reply :

Thanks Bizz that is great info and gets me headed in the right direction.

-John

Bass Dude reply :

I was using the same braid (Suffix 10/2), until I had a ton of breakoffs between the leader and the braid main line then I went to straight flouro. I was using a blood-knot, which I think was causing the braid to cut thru my leader. I'm going to try that albright knot and see if that solves my problem.

Other than that, my set-up was pretty much like yours.

J Francho reply :

Blood knots are terribly unreliable on fast action bass tackle. They do not hold up well to the hookset. The Allbright knot is a very good one. I'm good with a Uni to Uni connection. If there is a big difference between leader and mainline, a spider hitch knot to double up the braid makes a better connection.

tand reply :

Great information! I cant wait to try it!

As a side question would this work equally as well in stained water with timber?

J Francho reply :

It works anywhere there are fish. Adjust the tackle to the situation.

.ghoti. reply :

When I read the post title, I expected to see a drop shot rig consisting of a 22/0 EWG hook impaling one of those hand-poured 19" worms and a 4oz cannonball weight, all tied up on 100lb test flouro.

srv1990 reply :

Quote
Great report! I too switched over to braid and found the sensitivity increased dramatically. However instead of tying directly to the leader I use a small black swivel between the main line braid and the fluoro leader. While braid does not show the twist as badly this almost eliminates any line twisting.
The other thing I discovered after a couple years of using braid was using 10 lb Fireline worked better then my favorite Power Pro. The Fireline has just a small amount of memory and stays on the spool better then the limper Power Pro.

Just curious, does the swivel ever get hung up on the guides? Thanks!

J Francho reply :

Yep, and in fact will ruin them. I hate using a swivel in this application, as I feel it adds too much fuss to the rig, but if you want to use one, thread a plastic bead on the mainline before tying the swivel. This will prevent you from reeling the swivel through your guides.

islandbass reply :

Quote

If you are casting the rig farther away from you, wouldn't a longer bait-to-sinker distance help to keep the bait higher in the water column at the lower angle created when the sinker is farther from your rod tip?

I hope that makes sense.

Absolutely. I too wrote an article on my take on the drop shot and I mention this. As one who is permanently shorebound, I sometimes have to make fairly long casts. I take that factor into account.

I also prefer the teardrop shaped weights when possible closely followed by the cylindrical ones. I have ball ones that I haven't gotten around to.

Drop shotting is so effective, it's almost not fair.

Great job, Fourbizz! 8-)

Gatorbassman reply :

Thank you bizz. Thanks for assuring me that what I was thinking about doing is ok to do. Sometimes I need a kick in the pants.

Tin reply :

....

You're something else.

Md reply :

Good stuff man! All that you said is right on! Although here in the Northeast when it comes to smallies, it IS a big fish tactic. It also translates well to any water color and lots of species. Last year I caught everything from perch to trout to a few Pike over 35 inches...not that I wanted to catch any of these useless fish but what the heck! lol For anyone new to drop shotting and looking to start out, follow fourbizz's advice exactly and you will be doing it right...now all you have to do is find the fish!

fourbizz reply :

Quote
One question you said about being in clear water. Does this method also work in our murky water up here in the north?

Absolutely. My biggest fish on the dropshot came in about 2ft visibility, in the dark, during a new moon. And that was with a small 6" worm.

Quote
when you get stuck on the bottom where does the break occur?
ps. great thread

Your line will either pull through the swivel on the weight, or the swivel will cut it at that point. Assuming of course that you have no nicks in your line and and it isnt your hook that is stuck.

Quote

I tend to think of "Drop Shot" as a rig, not a presentation or style. I'm pretty sure I've rigged it up on every rod I own. Well, not my trout rods, LOL. I love DS on braid as well, and 10/2 is ideal. I've also used much heavier line and a flipping stick to cannon ball the pads. A very deadly tactic with a 10" worm or Super Fluke.

I have punched this rig with a 1.5 ounce tungsten weight and a 15" worm and swimbaits

Quote
Great information! I cant wait to try it!
As a side question would this work equally as well in stained water with timber?

Absolutely, if the timber is still branchy, ditch the nose hook and go texas. If they are just vertical trunks, keep to the nose hook.

Thanks all. Glad this was of some use

J Francho reply :

Quote
I have punched this rig with a 1.5 ounce tungsten weight and a 15" worm and swimbaits

Here is a nice swimbait for you:

fourbizz reply :

I would really like to go out and get a Steelie. I went once this year and blanked epicly.

fourbizz reply :

Quote
bizz and dropshot in the same sentence
I use 10lb braid and floro leader too. awesome combo for deadstickin.

hope you've been good dood, it's been awhile. 8-)

How have you been bro! Been awhile! We'll have to get out this spring. Sucks that we'll be stuck on the bank at the spot though.

jerbs reply :

Been alright. Lots of fishing and skateboarding. Been fishing a dropshot at anderson for a bunch of dinks. tons of fun though. 4" robo sculpin pattern ,straight down to 20-30 fow, no movement.

Yeah we will. That is a BIG time bummer. Just an excuse to spend more time on the delta ;D

Good to see your still kickin. 8-)

John McGough reply :

I realize, the posting I'm referring to is eight years old, but is one of the most astute recommendations for drop shorting.(Fourbizz) addresses every aspect of the technique from rod to weight/hook. But the line recommendation was the one that really grabbed my attention. The reasoning and the suggestions on knot for tying fly to leader to braid. But the use of braid to lessen line twist and lessen the bow in line, thereby increasing sensitivity and hook sets, is greatly appreciated.

New member, this was the first post I read. And very impressed with the forum.

For those that want to read or re-read, it was titled "Drop shotting my way" Jan 09.

Edited January 18, 2017 by John McGough
Omission

A-Jay reply :

On 1/18/2017 at 5:42 PM, John McGough said:

I realize, the posting I'm referring to is eight years old, but is one of the most astute recommendations for drop shorting.(Fourbizz) addresses every aspect of the technique from rod to weight/hook. But the line recommendation was the one that really grabbed my attention. The reasoning and the suggestions on knot for tying fly to leader to braid. But the use of braid to lessen line twist and lessen the bow in line, thereby increasing sensitivity and hook sets, is greatly appreciated.

New member, this was the first post I read. And very impressed with the forum.

For those that want to read or re-read, it was titled "Drop shotting my way" Jan 09.

Hello John and Welcome to Bass Resource ~

Keep poking around, there's a ton of solid (and more current) info on not only the effective drop shot, but All Things Bass.

A-Jay

Darren. reply :

On 1/18/2017 at 5:42 PM, John McGough said:

I realize, the posting I'm referring to is eight years old, but is one of the most astute recommendations for drop shorting.(Fourbizz) addresses every aspect of the technique from rod to weight/hook. But the line recommendation was the one that really grabbed my attention. The reasoning and the suggestions on knot for tying fly to leader to braid. But the use of braid to lessen line twist and lessen the bow in line, thereby increasing sensitivity and hook sets, is greatly appreciated.

New member, this was the first post I read. And very impressed with the forum.

For those that want to read or re-read, it was titled "Drop shotting my way" Jan 09.

Welcome aboard, John!

@A-Jay is right, this is one of many many good drop shot

posts on the forums.

jbw252 reply :

Good read. Thanks Fourbizz.

Catt reply :

Sadly some of bassresource's best articles are in archives!

Do a Google search on any subject & add bassresource to the end.

fourbizz is one of the guys I miss around here

WSOzzie reply :

Have to agree with all - great post from the past, but still relevant today. One of the key components to DS, in my novice opinion, is the setting of the drag. I was losing big fish to line breaks, and was very quick to blame line size, material and quality. Several folks, especially JFrancho, set me straight on the 'human error' involved in having the drag too tight. It takes some time to hone in on the right setting, but that's the beauty of the technique. I also have tried the swivel to avoid inevitable line twist, but I think I might have missed a few more hooksets than normal with an unwanted turn of the hook. The DS technique that I enjoy the most is more of a power-finesse approach that allows me to cover more water. Some of the most fun I've had is drawing a biting fish closer to the boat in order to subtly set the hook. Once set, the game is on. Of course, learning to use the electronics for the vertical assault is a great time as well. Thanks, again, for all who take the time to share.

NYWayfarer reply :

On 1/18/2017 at 5:42 PM, John McGough said:

But the use of braid to lessen line twist and lessen the bow in line, thereby increasing sensitivity and hook sets, is greatly appreciated.

I found the part about braid interesting as well.

I fight line twist by using VMC spinshot hooks. I don't think they were around in 2009 when this thread was created.

6852

Dropshotting my way 2024

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