I’m debating on switching out the O split rings on my my crank baits (at the line tie) to snaps, and the regular round-bend treblehooks to EWG style hooks. What are the pros and cons to this, I’m very new to crankbait fishing customizing and could use some help. I am normally a soft plastic, Chatterbait, and Spinnerbait guy. Just decided to dive in to crankbaits this past year, and even though I’ve caught some fine, I’m wanting to tinker and catch more.
what have you tinkered with so far? from what i have learned round bend are normally just better all around hooks, if a fish swipes at a bait they are unlikely to get the ewg because they are turned inwards. as far as snaps go i believe @Glenn uses them on his line and takes off split rings off the line tie (as per his video). so maybe he can talk about that a little more. i would be looking at line type and diameter. I am always trying to get more feel with crankbaits so im going to be throwing braid to leader next season probably 40lb 832 --> 14 lb mono. also what is your cranking setup and what depths are you using it for mainly?
Changing out hooks can affect more than you think. For example, take a slow floating crankbait and put some heavier hooks on them and you'll likely have yourself a suspending crankbait. Also, using a lighter/heavier wire hook can slightly affect how deep a bait dives. Maybe not by a drastic amount, but it may add/subtract 6-12", which can sometimes make a difference.
The most important thing to consider whenever choosing crankbait hooks is going as big as you can without the hooks being able to foul up on one other. The bigger those hooks can be, the better chance you have at hooking into that fish whenever it bites.
Not sure I can explain the science behind it but I used EWGs on nearly all my crankbaits, mostly lipless and squarebill, with improved results versus the stock round bend hooks.
I take the split rings off of my crainkbaits and connect to them with a snap. Never had any negative issues. Still can't neglect the occasional re-tie though.
I switch all my split rings to Owner hyper wire and hooks to triple grips. I am not worried about those few fish that may "slap" at the bait. I'm more worried about keeping those big girls that actually inhaled it pinned on.
I have recently started to use snaps in place of the ring on the bill. I really like them so far. Hopefully I'm not on here one day crying about how I lost a monster because my snap gave way. Only time will tell I guess.
I leave them alone . I have had no problem with stock hooks on modern crankbaits . Sure ,I could spend a bunch of money and get premiere hooks but I just dont have a problem with the hooks and I fish cranks a lot . Most of the old baits I switch hooks.
O-rings the same way. No sense in changing them . I've never had one fail .
@Scarborough817 I used 30lb braid last year, did really well with squarebills on cover. Super sensitive. Now though I’ve gone back to 12 pound fluorocarbon. I use a 7’ Abu Veritas medium fast action and a 6:4.1 Abu reel. I’ve used the ewgs on the front for that reason. Throwing into cover and pulling it through with way less snags, but I was debating on trading all my trebles out.
Someone enlighten me, what is a EWG treble hook? We have standard bend (sproat bend), round bend, triple grip, short shank, heavy wire XX, out barb, but only Gamakatsu calls thier round bend short shank EWG.
Most good quality crankbaits today come with sharp strong treble hooks. The only reason to change them is up size, lighter wire or shorter round bend shanks. Older crankbaits had horrible dull hooks compared to today's hooks, so I don't change them unless wanting to up size them.
O-rinds are solid rings, I think you mean split rings. If you use a clip you don't need a split ring. If you tie directly to the split ring, change it to a oval split ring so the knot doesn't get cut by the sharp ends.
Tom
EWG = Extra Wide Gap
On 12/13/2017 at 9:27 AM, Sifuedition said:EWG = Extra Wide Gap
Ok, tell me how that applies to a treble hook, list brands and differences from round bend for example. Extra Wide Gap then what other hook, compared to a size 4 and size 2 for example.
Tom
"Extra-wide gap - The hook's gap, where it normally is measured for sizing, is from the shank to the point. An "extra-wide gap" is actually extra wide farther down in the bend, creating an inward point angle. The point aiming toward the hook eye offers added holding power to keep large, hard-fighting fish hooked. "
https://www.flwfishing.com/tips/2013-10-18-guide-to-treble-hooks
I don't switch mine out, so I haven't spec'd out different brands, etc. I was just answering your question about what an EWG is.
@WRBthese are the two I’m asking about...the top one is the EWG
The in the photos appear to be Owner ST-35 & ST-46, neither are EWG because Owner doesn't make them.
Your question could be the top hook is a standard sproat bend treble hook, the points turned slightly inward. The bottom photo is a round bend treble hook. Both are excellent, I prefer the standard bend treble hooks. If you want a wider gap use a larger size.
Tom
@WRB neither are Owner, both are Trokar. I’ve heard the top are better for larger fish and fishing structures.
Over kill, you can only put a about 4 lbs of force using a heavy crankbait rod, bass aren't tuna. Knife edge treble hooks like Tokar tend to tear out easily.
My largest crankbait bass is 14lbs caught using a standard Norman DD22 with stock hooks that I keep very sharp, that is important.
Good luck with your crankbait fishing.
Tom
I don't change them, unless they are not nickel plated then I will swapp them out probably not necessary but it's just me. Most of my crankbaits usually have decent if not very good quality hooks.
Speed traps, baby minus, cotton Cordell spots and so on I replace when I take them out the package.
Changing hooks became very popular during the red hook era, bass anglers are a lot like cattle following the herd. If the hooks are sharp use them, if not change them.
Tom
The ewg short shank trebles work good for squarebills because you get less hang ups or snags on wood not weedless but the closes thing to weedless in regards to trebles the inward bend helps to get over cover better than the traditional trebles.
I use the short shanks on lures like the old Rebel Deep Wee R's because they were made with the hook hangers to close together . Otherwise I just use stock hooks and replace them with inexpensive VMC's , or Mustad round bends if they become damaged .
I use the stock hooks that come with the bait. If the hooks need to be sharpened then I sharpen them.
Thanks for the feedback everyone! Helps a lot. Any tips on deep cranking? Never gone deeper than 8’ here in MS. Trying to broaden my fishing though.
On 12/14/2017 at 8:21 AM, Monkeysaurus said:Thanks for the feedback everyone! Helps a lot. Any tips on deep cranking? Never gone deeper than 8’ here in MS. Trying to broaden my fishing though.
Choose crankbaits that dive a couple feet deeper than the bottom your fishing . Berkely Dredgers dive to their advertised depth with 12 lb test .
On 12/14/2017 at 12:00 PM, scaleface said:Choose crankbaits that dive a couple feet deeper than the bottom your fishing . Berkely Dredgers dive to their advertised depth with 12 lb test .
I’ve used the Berkely Squarebills and really like them, haven’t gotten a chance to use anything that runs much deeer though. I’ll have to get some Dredgers, have you used any of the other Berkely cranks?
On 12/15/2017 at 11:53 AM, Monkeysaurus said:have you used any of the other Berkely cranks?
Nope .
I've really gotten into crankbait fishing this past year.. especially squarebills and recently round bills that dive up to 10 feet.. 6th Sense seem to be my go too, great color patterns And an awesome company.. anyways, a fee questions I have.. what's the best gear ratio for squarebills and deeper divers? I generally use a 6.4 for squarebills and 7.1 for anything deeper.. is that sufficient? Could I use a 7.1 for everything? Pros and cons?
Also, I usually throw them on 10-12# fluro.. is mono better? Having more stretch to help play the fish out or better abrasion resistance? What do you guys prefer? Thanks
I use a 5.2 to 1 Johnny Morris for the deepest divers with a lot of resistance but I could get by with about any gear ratio .
I'm a 5.7:1 for most all my cranking kind of guy.
A-Jay
I wish I could find something in a lower gear ratio.. but I'm a lefty and it seems like 6.4:1 is usually the lowest that's available, especially in my price range $150-$200..
What do you usually use for line? Mono or fluro?
Might like the daiwa cv-z. They have a ize reel that is boss and an ITO if pink is your thing. I like the green and gold cv-z.
On 12/16/2017 at 10:36 AM, Adam.love05 said:What do you usually use for line? Mono or fluro?
I use 12 lb Berkely Big Game .
The only 'customizing' I do is changing out the line tie split ring to an oval one and that's only on baits where I've had my line slip in between the original ring. Around here, bluegill are a big part of the bass' diet, so I add a splash of orange to the belly of many of my cranks.
For all but my really deep diving baits, I use a 6.3:1 reel spooled with 10lb. copoly or 12lb. mono. I use a different combo for lipless cranks spooled with 30lb. braid, no leader. As mentioned before, this goes for whatever depth you're fishing, unless you'll be bumping cover, pick a bait that runs deeper than the depth you're targeting. You can fine tune how often it contacts the bottom with your rod position and how fast you crank.
I keep my cranking setup super simple. 12lb flouro, 7’ medium action Abu Garcia rod, and a 6:4.1 Abu reel. Covers all my bases, lipless or lipped. I’ve never thrown deep divers and I’ve only thrown cranks going deeper than 6’ one or two days, but I’ve never had issues. I will switch to a 7’ medium-heavy with 30lb braid if I’m fishing cover though.
On 12/16/2017 at 10:36 AM, Adam.love05 said:I wish I could find something in a lower gear ratio.. but I'm a lefty and it seems like 6.4:1 is usually the lowest that's available, especially in my price range $150-$200..
What do you usually use for line? Mono or fluro?
Daiwa JDM Zillion 1516 is low profile LH with 5.5:1 at $160 TW sale.
Tom
On 12/20/2017 at 9:46 AM, WRB said:Daiwa JDM Zillion 1516 is low profile LH with 5.5:1 at $160 TW sale.
Tom
Thanks Tom. I'll check it out.
On 12/17/2017 at 11:20 AM, papajoe222 said:The only 'customizing' I do is changing out the line tie split ring to an oval one and that's only on baits where I've had my line slip in between the original ring. Around here, bluegill are a big part of the bass' diet, so I add a splash of orange to the belly of many of my cranks.
For all but my really deep diving baits, I use a 6.3:1 reel spooled with 10lb. copoly or 12lb. mono. I use a different combo for lipless cranks spooled with 30lb. braid, no leader. As mentioned before, this goes for whatever depth you're fishing, unless you'll be bumping cover, pick a bait that runs deeper than the depth you're targeting. You can fine tune how often it contacts the bottom with your rod position and how fast you crank.
Yea I usually always change out my split ring that my snap or line connect too.. exactly for the same reason. I don't often change out hooks unless the stock hooks are garbage.. I usually run most of my cranking on 10-12# fluro, on a M or MH crankbait rod.. running on a Lew's 6.4:1 for squarebills and cranks running 6' or less and everything deeper I have a Lew's in 7.1:1.. but I tend to fish too fast sometimes, so I'm considering dropping down some gear ratio.. idk.. the wife says it's just an excuse to get another set up! She's good! Haha
Monkey, in lieu of worrying about your crankbait hooks, here is a pro secret to consider.
Go to Wal-Mart, Target, etc. and buy a bottle of Sally Hansen Hard as Nails Xtreme Ware nail polish in bright orange.
Then follow up with a bottle of clear Hard as Nails.
Put an orange dot on each side of your crankbait by the eyes.
Cover the orange dot, when it is totally dry, with the clear polish.
And don't worry about your hooks.
Have fun!!!