The Do's and Dont's of fishing a Crank Bait... 2024
Bass_Akwards reply :
What makes someone "Good" with a crank bait?
What are the most common mistakes made by people who aren't very good at fishing a crank bait?
T
Munkin reply :
QuoteWhat makes someone "Good" with a crank bait?What are the most common mistakes made by people who aren't very good at fishing a crank bait?
T
They catch fish 
Just winding it straight in. A crankbait should be running into things like wood, rocks, bridge pilings, etc. What I have seen in the past is someone afraid of getting snagged so they do not cast into cover. I am a full contact fisherman! Meaning I will throw a $16 LC crank in places you would expect to get a flippin jig stuck.
Allen
Other. reply :
Things that I guess some one that just starting to fish a crank bait would be throwing something too shallow for the water they are fishing.
Oh Redneckriot27 has a great don't when fishing a crank bait.
Stringjam reply :
QuoteWhat makes someone "Good" with a crank bait?
Feel (e.g. - like a good jig fisherman knows where and what his lure is doing at all times)
Casting accuracy and distance
Boat positioning
Reading electronics
QuoteWhat are the most common mistakes made by people who aren't very good at fishing a crank bait?
Staying away from cover
Fish Man reply :
NEVER leave more than a foot of slack line and NEVER cast into the wind with to much slack line(especially at the same time). the result will be a crank to the back of the head
roadwarrior reply :
QuoteA crankbait should be running into things like wood, rocks, bridge pilings, etc. What I have seen in the past is someone afraid of getting snagged so they do not cast into cover. I am a full contact fisherman! Meaning I will throw a $16 LC crank in places you would expect to get a flippin jig stuck.
I like your attitude!
8-)
Raul reply :
One of the reasons why most people suck at crankbaiting is just because they really don 't get that crankbaiting IS A CONTACT SPORT.
Get it straight guys:
IF YOU ARE NOT FISHING WITH A CRANKBAIT WHERE IT 'S GOING TO HANG UP YOU ARE NOT FISHING IT WHERE THE FISH ARE.
Another mistake:
Dude crankbaits ain 't for reeling in in straight line.
Another mistake:
Dude, there ain 't no point in you castin right next to the stump, standing tree or whatever, you cast PAST THEM so when the bait passes next to them, on top of them or into them limbs you have it running at it 's max diving depth.
Don 't wanna your baits with scratches, shaved lips, peeled finish ? don 't fish with carnkbaits.
CJ reply :
Raul makes a great point.
Other Anime named the most common mistake I see people do.
Using the wrong crankbait for depth,season(water temps),and cover/structure they are fishing,I believe is the most common mistake made.
Chris has started some of the best threads on crankbaits.I would take time to try and look those up.
Marty reply :
QuoteWhat are the most common mistakes made by people who aren't very good at fishing a crank bait?
Not getting them wet. 8-)
Micro reply :
My favorite crank technique is fishing crawdad colored cranks on the bottom, especially in fall. I like a craw colored crank that will absolutely get to the bottom of wherever I'm fishing. I scrape and bounce it along the botton the whole way back, leaving a trail behind it. I've lost cranks and banged even more up, but it's a very productive technique. It works very well when there is a hard sandy or gravely bottom.
Munkin reply :
Another problem is using a fast action rod, crankbait rods should flex through most of the blank. By switching to a crankbait rod my hookup ratio went up by about 25%. You do not need a crankbait specific rod just get a inexpensive graphite rod or a fiberglass one and it will work. I have a $18 Quantum IM4 (something like that) that works great as a crankbait rod.
Allen
Bassin_Fin@tic reply :
I do believe that working in and around cover will usually be more productive.You can get the occasional "fluke fish"in open water though almost by accident.
INCIDENTALLY,my top 2 PB were both on cranks over deep, flat bottom water.No cover or structure.
12-3 bass: wind was killing,I couldnt cast accurately,and because of the chop I could not see the weedline I was working.Got pretty mad from gettting hung up.Hurled my crank toward the middle of the lake and burned it in like a missile.Thought I snagged a turtle or a giant catfish.
second pb 10-2:Threw a flat dt7 over 20 ft of water and was trying to tune it.Steady medium retrieve and the big momma hit.What a surprise.Darn near lost my rod!
2 giant "accidental" fish.When I actually try to fish a crank in that manner I can never even get a bass to so much as breath on it.
But to answer the topic... A good cb fisherman knows the right kind of crank to use in a situation. A poor cb fisherman doesnt experiment.
Kick.N.Bass reply :
I think evryone is right on with thier advice, but I would add throw towards the weed lines more. Everyone is always affraid of getting snagged, or wasting a cast by getting a lil grass on the trebles, but that monster Bass is right in those weeds waiting to ambush so don't be affraid to hit those weed lines/weed beds.
Matt Fly reply :
I think knowing your cranks is important. Rarely will a billed crank get used before I have checked for tuning.
I like to keep right running and left running cranks for lakes that have the long docks. Working a crank under docks can put some fish in the boat.
I like to know what line size does to fall rates, suspending types, and so on.
Already knowing what type of feedback a lure gives you allows you to feel the unkowns.
When deep divers are used, I think too many people use to high of a ratio and it becomes too much of a work out. 3:8:1, 4:3:1 or low 5 will help get the job done and not leave you worn out.
Hookem Cranks catch fish, good fish!!!!
fishfordollars reply :
QuoteMy favorite crank technique is fishing crawdad colored cranks on the bottom, especially in fall. I like a craw colored crank that will absolutely get to the bottom of wherever I'm fishing. I scrape and bounce it along the botton the whole way back, leaving a trail behind it. I've lost cranks and banged even more up, but it's a very productive technique. It works very well when there is a hard sandy or gravely bottom.
You are right on. Also rip it through the tops of grass. It will get your arm ripped out of socket.
5bass reply :
In my opinion, the biggest mistake people make is not choosing the correct crank for the situation at hand, as many have stated already.
You should at least identify the depth that the fish are holding first, then choose a crank that will put you in that zone.
If fish are mainly relating to or feeding on the bottom, I will always try to use a crank that will dig into the bottom or at least bump it every now and then. The deflection of the bait off the bottom (or anything else for that matter) is what triggers the strike.
When cranking shallow brush, I prefer a square billed balsa crank that deflects well and floats up and away from obstructions quickly. Lucky Craft is making some plastic cranks now that have alot the characteristics of a wood crank, only more durable and consistent right out of the package. The LC SKT(Skeet Reese) cranks are going to be real killers.
If the fish are suspended at 10' I will use a suspending crank that runs 10' or a little less and pause it every now and then. Suspended fish usually indicates a negative feeding mood and you should try several different retrieves on them before moving on.
There are so many crank choices nowadays, it can be confusing trying to figure out what each one is best for. Just remember to keep it simple. Overthinking a situation is almost as bad as not thinking about it at all.
Low_Budget_Hooker reply :
QuoteIn my opinion, the biggest mistake people make is not choosing the correct crank for the situation at hand, as many have stated already.You should at least identify the depth that the fish are holding first, then choose a crank that will put you in that zone.
If fish are mainly relating to or feeding on the bottom, I will always try to use a crank that will dig into the bottom or at least bump it every now and then. The deflection of the bait off the bottom (or anything else for that matter) is what triggers the strike.
When cranking shallow brush, I prefer a square billed balsa crank that deflects well and floats up and away from obstructions quickly. Lucky Craft is making some plastic cranks now that have alot the characteristics of a wood crank, only more durable and consistent right out of the package. The LC SKT(Skeet Reese) cranks are going to be real killers.
If the fish are suspended at 10' I will use a suspending crank that runs 10' or a little less and pause it every now and then. Suspended fish usually indicates a negative feeding mood and you should try several different retrieves on them before moving on.
There are so many crank choices nowadays, it can be confusing trying to figure out what each one is best for. Just remember to keep it simple. Overthinking a situation is almost as bad as not thinking about it at all.
Love the new avatar Scott!! ;D
grimlin reply :
I'm taking in all this information.Learned a thing and two now. 
.dsaavedra. reply :
i consider myself a good crankbait fisherman. i am very productive witha crank. probably my top 4 or 5 fish were taken on a crankbait. i do everything that everyone said.
but im not sure what you all mean by dont crank it back in a straight line. how can you avoid this? any lure that you are retreiving back to you comes back in a straight line. the only way to avoid this would be sticking your rod way out to the left or right...but even that doesnt get you too far off a straight line.
when you guys say "straight line" do you mean just reeling it straight back at a steady pace with no variation? that seems like a beginner mistake. are you saying that instead of cranking steadily, change the pace of your reeling, and add pauses and jerks and let the lure float for a little bit then crank it back down....change things up? cuz thats what i do but the lure still comes back to me in a straight line.
i just wanted to clarify things. :
maxke01 reply :
I'd just like to say thanks for this thread, im learning a lot and taking it all in. What are some goood all around cranks?
.dsaavedra. reply :
anything made by rapala is a very well crafted fishing lure adn will last you many many many fish. and it is very affordable.
some of their good bass cranks include the shad rap, anything in the DT series, and of coures the original floater.
maxke01 reply :
Thanks dsaavedra, i own many a cranks and have NEVER used them sadly. Ill be using cranks and soft plastics for the first time this year thanks to this wonderful forum! Wish i lived around some of the experience on this forum...fishing alone sucks sometimes :'(
Munkin reply :
Quotewhen you guys say "straight line" do you mean just reeling it straight back at a steady pace with no variation? that seems like a beginner mistake. are you saying that instead of cranking steadily, change the pace of your reeling, and add pauses and jerks and let the lure float for a little bit then crank it back down....change things up? cuz thats what i do but the lure still comes back to me in a straight line.
i just wanted to clarify things. :
Correct, I guess I was a little unclear :-? I fish with people that just cast and reel. This will still catch some fish but a crank deflecting off of something catches more and bigger fish. I have a couple cranks that are now shallow divers from the bills grinding down on the river bottom.
Allen
Randall reply :
Grinding a crankbait into the bottom that dives much deeper than the bottom is the most overlooked mistake in throwing crankbaits. Some people even do it on purpose and think it produces more strikes. If you are throwing a crankbait that dives to 16 feet at a speed that allows it to dive to 16 feet into 10 feet of water it will not have as much wiggle action or deflection as a 10 foot diver 10 feet of water that barely touches the bottom. It simply kills all of the action even if it stirs up the bottom. The very best crankbait fishermen can hit a stump in 15 feet of water that sticks up a couple of feet off the bottom with out the bait ever hitting the bottom at all before it hits the stump. This gives the bait the very best action and deflection to trigger a bite from a fish holding on a stump, brushpile or other object under the water.
Micro reply :
I understand what you are saying. But how do you get, say, an 8 ft diver to 8 ft when you are only retrieving it fast enough to get it to 4 ft?
In the tidal creeks I fish, when the water hits the low 50s to mid 40s and the fish are holding anywere from 6 to 12 feet, I can't seem to get many hits if I'm using cranks that dives to those depths on a normal retrieve. So I might select a crank that dives deeper so I can get to those depths on a slower retrieve. I have better success when I do that.
With respect to hitting bottom: my experience is that the same pretty much applies. I tend to use a deeper diver to get to the bottom on a slower retrieve.
In the creeks I like to fish, when the water gets cold, craw colored cranks, particularly Bomber Model As, and Rebel Crawfish, that are skittered along the bottom seem to produce best for me. And a slow to moderate retrieve works best. So I use a deeper diver to get to the bottom on a slow retrieve. I don't mean to imply that I'm trying to dig the lip into the bottom, but I'm definately hitting bottom with it. Once I started this, my success in these creeks went way up.
QuoteIf you are throwing a crankbait that dives to 16 feet at a speed that allows it to dive to 16 feet into 10 feet of water
For me, it would more like throwing a 16 foot diver into 10 feet of water and retrieving it at a speed that allows it to dive to 10 feet. I'm sure the lure looses some action with a retrieve that's too slow. But something is working - perhaps the eratic action that must be imparted when the cranks is skittering over gravel and sand.
5bass reply :
There are times that digging a crank just kills 'em. At least where I fish it does and especially on structure where there isnt much bottom "cover". If there is ample cover on the bottom I wont dig the crankbait into the bottom.....thats when I concentrate on hitting the cover.
Matt Fly reply :
A properly geared reel makes it easy to crank a bait to its max depth, without grinding all day to keep it there.
Proper gearing allows you to keep that bait down their at a snails pace.
Whats nice, baits like DD 22's won't wear you out with the right reel.
CJ reply :
Crankbait techniques are going to vary with the type of structoral features and cover you are fishing.The ledges that I fish on my home lake have isolated brushpiles and rockpiles.My techniques for fishing these deeper spots are to make sure I am running a crankbait that hits the bottom.By coming into contact with the hard bottom contours I target,the brushpiles or rocks will cause the lure to deflect,sending it shooting off to one side.I really don't have to do anything special other than pause after a good contact with whatever I hit.Sometimes instead of pausing I may rip it and cause it to speed up after contact.But alot of fish have been caught on a steady retrieve simply because the contact with cover or bottom will do the work for you.
There are many different opinions on this subject and it's hard to be wrong.Hank Parker aired a show a year or so ago.He was fishing in Texas,using a Mann's 20+ in 15-18 ft. of water.He explained that he was wanting his crankbait to stand up on it's lip while digging up the bottom.
Another thing to keep in mind is that very few crankbaits will run as deep as they claim to on the package without getting your rod wet.
Matt Fly reply :
CJ,
don't forget to bring those 1/2 to 3/4 oz red traps in Feb. Fork bass love those things.
Hookem
guest reply :
QuoteA properly geared reel makes it easy to crank a bait to its max depth, without grinding all day to keep it there.Proper gearing allows you to keep that bait down their at a snails pace.
Whats nice, baits like DD 22's won't wear you out with the right reel.
MATT that being said, and i know it to be the case. If I am fishing a lot of smaller bodies of water around the 12 to 15 ft mark how much easier is it with a 5.2:1 than a 6.2:1 ratio, would it matter as much?
Micro reply :
QuoteThere are many different opinions on this subject and it's hard to be wrong.Hank Parker aired a show a year or so ago.He was fishing in Texas,using a Mann's 20+ in 15-18 ft. of water.He explained that he was wanting his crankbait to stand up on it's lip while digging up the bottom.
When I'm cranking in the situation I described a few posts ago, I'm trying to stay in contact with the bottom during as much of my retrieve as possible. I use a fairly steady retrieve until I hit something substantial. Then I pause for a second or two then accelerate the bait back down to the bottom. In the creeks I fish that have sand/gravel/stone bottoms it's the most productive cranking technique I've tried.
5bass reply :
QuoteQuoteHank Parker aired a show a year or so ago.He was fishing in Texas,using a Mann's 20+ in 15-18 ft. of water.He explained that he was wanting his crankbait to stand up on it's lip while digging up the bottom.
The idea behind that technique is to make your crank look like its a small fish (bluegill, perch etc...) just swimming along and feeding off the bottom. You will see some cranks, especially deep runners, come across ebay and other internet places that are custom weighted in the nose that makes them stand straight up off the bottom when retrieved. With the nose weighted, you can actually pause here and there and your bait just stays standing up off the bottom. It's very effective at times.
Micro reply :
QuoteThe idea behind that technique is to make your crank look like its a small fish (bluegill, perch etc...) just swimming along and feeding off the bottom. You will see some cranks, especially deep runners, come across ebay and other internet places that are custom weighted in the nose that makes them stand straight up off the bottom when retrieved. With the nose weighted, you can actually pause here and there and your bait just stays standing up off the bottom. It's very effective at times.
My big rebel Crawfish have circles molded into the lips on the underside. Are these for weights? I've seen little round weights at BPS that look like they could be glued in these. Do you think I might get even better performance out of my Crawfish by doing that? I'd like to slow my cranking down even more if I could.
Bass_Akwards reply :
Fantastic stuff guys! Thanks!
FishinDaddy reply :
I have 3 cranks that are my favorites-
Shallow water over Hydrilla ect..Rapala J-11 in golden shiner. I crank in down to the top of the grass and twitch or rip in through the grass. It produced the most fish by far this year with 3 over 5#s. Its only drawback is that it is light and you have to use lighter gear to cast it very far.
5 to 10' and around timber or docks - Bomber 6A Firetiger. I pitch this crank more than cast and I go through a lot of them. pitch it under docks or into laydown trees that are exposed. Crank and twitch until you hit something and pause and hang on. 8.31 lbs out of a huge tree in 3 ft of water. You have to work it slow and make accurate pitches and be prepared to lose or break a lot of them. Same technique with a DD 22 got me a 10-8 out of 5' deep water this year(see photo to the left). I use heavy braid when doing this. I believe these heavy structure fish are usually resident fish and don't see many cranks because most people are scared to throw them.
Deeper water (in fl that means 15') or on large flats or shell bars I like the Spro Aruka Shad in golden shiner on 30# braid. You can cast this thing a mile and it sinks quickly so you can work a lot of water.
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