Your Opinion...when Are The Worst Times To Use Braid? 2025
LApanic reply :
want to see what the forum has to offer up before I reveal what applications I sue braid for, but I do use it a good bit.. No let here em! lol
motodmast reply :
only thing i dont use it for is baits that have treble hooks. topwater gets mono, cranks get fluoro.
everything else i can use braid for. i dont necessarly use it 100% of the time, but i have use it and will use it again
Virtuoso reply :
The worst times to use braid are when there is anything but a frog on the line.
LApanic reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 12:20 PM, Virtuoso said:The worst times to use braid are when there is anything but a frog on the line.
I would have to agree to disagree, I use them with several topwater applications for better action and hook sets, as well a pitching/flipping matted grass, even wood. Heck, my favorite application for braid is 20# Power Pro on spinning tackle, with 12-14# Fluorocarbon leader (2, 2.5 ft) for throwing a fluke. Get way better action, with the soft jerkbait dropping faster at the end, and the hooksets are reel sets!
LApanic reply :
The only thing I personally WONT use it for, hta I can think of off the bat, is clear water deep worm fishing. Ive been know to thrown braid with a leader worm fishing
Virtuoso reply :
The buoyancy and drag that braid has makes it a terrible line for any cranking techniques. Not to mention that treble hooks will tear it apart. For jerkbait use fluorocarbon or mono are much better choices and give the bait a much more natural action. Also, if it is windy braid is severely effected. It bellies heavily for any light weight application due to its hydrophobic/buoyancy tendencies. During bottom contact applications, there are many times where the line is slack, braid does not transmit vibrations during these times. Other lines offer a more consistent feel throughout the entire process.
Braid, however, does due fairly well for punching grass. Anyways, if the bait sinks I want a line that sinks. A premium fluoro works very well for a technique where you want a line to sink. For floating applications minus frogging I feel a quality mono like suffix siege or elite works well. This is a braid/powerpro heavy forum so I am sure most will disagree. Having used braid extensively, it does not even compare in performance to Tatsu or even a mid-priced FC sniper for that matter. But like you said, agree to disagree.
derekxec reply :
i use braid for everything and honestly other than a leader in saltwater you couldnt pay me to use mono/flouro
skeletor6 reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 12:42 PM, Virtuoso said:The buoyancy and drag that braid has makes it a terrible line for any cranking techniques. Not to mention that treble hooks will tear it apart. For jerkbait use fluorocarbon or mono are much better choices and give the bait a much more natural action. Also, if it is windy braid is severely effected. It bellies heavily for any light weight application due to its hydrophobic/buoyancy tendencies. During bottom contact applications, there are many times where the line is slack, braid does not transmit vibrations during these times. Other lines offer a more consistent feel throughout the entire process.
Braid, however, does due fairly well for punching grass. Anyways, if the bait sinks I want a line that sinks. A premium fluoro works very well for a technique where you want a line to sink. For floating applications minus frogging I feel a quality mono like suffix siege or elite works well. This is a braid/powerpro heavy forum so I am sure most will disagree. Having used braid extensively, it does not even compare in performance to Tatsu or even a mid-priced FC sniper for that matter. But like you said, agree to disagree.
I'm with this guy.
rockchalk06 reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 12:20 PM, Virtuoso said:The worst times to use braid are when there is anything but a frog on the line.
That makes absolutely no sense
Virtuoso reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 2:05 PM, rockchalk06 said:That makes absolutely no sense
If there is anything, but a frog on the line it is the worst time to use it. Where's the confusion?
SirSnookalot reply :
I've yet to have a problem with lure depth with braid, different lip angles produce different depths. I want a deeper dive I use kind of lure vs a shallow runner. How the rod is held also will produce different depths, hold lower for more depth. The worst time to use braid is trolling when using lures that have the propensity to spin a lot, like a drone spoon. if I do troll with braid I'm using lures that waver back and forth like a sling jig, freestyle jig, cedar plug.
rockchalk06 reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 2:08 PM, Virtuoso said:If there is anything, but a frog on the line it is the worst time to use it. Where's the confusion?
With a narrow minded statement like that, anything anyone says, will mean zilch
Virtuoso reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 2:13 PM, rockchalk06 said:With a narrow minded statement like that, anything anyone says, will mean zilch
I am narrow minded? Did you bother to read my post describing the reasons for why I only use braid for said purposes, or were you just too narrow minded to respect someone else's opinion? Nonetheless, if you would like to contribute and actually respond to the OP's question then maybe it would be more helpful then attacking those who offer thoroughly explained reasoning.
rockchalk06 reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 2:25 PM, Virtuoso said:I am narrow minded? Did you bother to read my post describing the reasons for why I only use braid for said purposes, or were you just too narrow minded to respect someone else's opinion? Nonetheless, if you would like to contribute and actually respond to the OP's question then maybe it would be more helpful then attacking those who offer thoroughly explained reasoning.
I never called you anything. I never attacked anything either. I respect anyone's opinion but don't have to agree with it. You bring up some valid points, but lack in the others. Your close minded on braid which is completely obvious and will shoot down anything anyone says differently. This is pointless
Virtuoso reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 2:31 PM, rockchalk06 said:I never called you anything. I never attacked anything either. I respect anyone's opinion but don't have to agree with it. You bring up some valid points, but lack in the others. Your close minded on braid which is completely obvious and will shoot down anything anyone says differently. This is pointless
What is pointless is every post you have made in this thread. You have done nothing but offered personal attacks towards my opinions. You have yet have you made to make a point relevant to this thread.
I have used, in varying diameters Power pro, PP Super Slick, Suffix 832, Seaguar Kanzen, Daiwa Samurai, and Toray Bawo Finesse. All were tested on both spinning gear and casting gears and also side-by-side as I have duplicates of most of my rods. Of all of those, I prefer Seaguar Kanzen in the higher diameters and Toray Bawo Finesse in the smaller. Thoroughly fishing many of these lines has allowed me to notice many of braids inherent weaknesses.
Poor/null slack line sensitivity, bellying, getting blown around by the wind, hydrophobic-buoyancy/high drag issues with crankbaits causing lower running of crankbaits poor abrasion resistance, high visibility, and bleeding of a few brands. The positives that I have experienced are longevity, great tight line sensitivity, good performance in grass, good manageability and excellent strength/diameter ratios. I will give stretch a neutral since there are times when it is desirable and those where it is not. Frogging is an excellent example where stretch is not.
With all of the usage, I found myself disliking more and more that braid offered inconsistent feel throughout the entire retrieval process. When dragging a jig its fantastic, but while the bait is sinking, suspended or moved in a way that causes slack line I am not offered feel at all. This yo-yo of inconsistency is undesireable to me. In times where it is windy, my line was severely effected as the line would blow around heavily both on top of the water and while the cast is in the air. Your bait my land in one area, but then the line that is floating would blow and cause the bait to fall elsewhere. Furthermore, it is easily noticeable on gin clear lakes that fish are spooked by the line.
I compare this against what is offered by Seaguar Tatsu, Sunline Shooter and FC Sniper and it is easily noticeable which line performs better to my standards. I have more experience fishing braid than most. I also employ braid, fluorocarbon and copoly into my fleet of rods I bring on a given day. I am very demanding on the performance of my equipment and need the consistency to produce on a consistent basis.
Care to offer arguments against my reasoning Mr. Chalk? Or would you rather just offer some more personal arguments?
rockchalk06 reply :
Your a funny guy. I haven't and won't ever make a personal attack. Your post is of your personal opinion. Plain and simple. I disagree. Now move on unless you have to have the last word. Then by all means please do!
The Commodore reply :
I am going to have to disagree with braid not being good on anything but frogs.
I will say do not use braid when fishing in heavy or big rocks.
loodkop reply :
I don't like braid using weightless plastics when the wind is blowing. I love braid for frogging,punching, spinnerbaits and lipless cranks. I fish a lot of grass.
flyfisher reply :
I prefer braid for pretty much everything except walk the dog type baits as it tends to get wrapped around the trebles easier. I have also actually started to prefer braid for crankbaits as well. All the talk about braid floating and affecting the running depth of the bait just doesn't work for me. You can use a smaller diameter braid then you can in mono or flouro which cuts through the water better hence getting the bait deeper.
When i switched from 8lb flouro to 8lb diameter PP Super slick i gained about a foot or two of diving depth on my cranks.
kickerfish1 reply :
I know guys that others have success fishing braid for most techniques but I am not one of them. Of the outfits I have I have braid rigged on 2. I like braid for fishing hollow body frogs and buzz toads, punching weed mats, and big soft body swimbaits around heavy grass. Every other technique will be covered by mono, quality floro, or a hybrid co-poly line in some cases. I would say roughly 75% of my outfits are rigged with floro.
In my 15 years of bass fishing this is what I have found to be optimal since I fish alot of technique specific outfit's that may only be used for 1 or 2 presentations. The biggest thing is having confidence in your line for its intended uses...
Capt.Bob reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 9:35 PM, flyfisher said:I prefer braid for pretty much everything except walk the dog type baits as it tends to get wrapped around the trebles easier. I have also actually started to prefer braid for crankbaits as well. All the talk about braid floating and affecting the running depth of the bait just doesn't work for me. You can use a smaller diameter braid then you can in mono or flouro which cuts through the water better hence getting the bait deeper.
When i switched from 8lb flouro to 8lb diameter PP Super slick i gained about a foot or two of diving depth on my cranks.
I will have to go one farther than flyfisher and say,,,,I use braid on every reel I own, and even consider the Dacron backing on my fly reels as. I will also say every one of those outfits (over 30) get a leader of mono or fluorocarbon or as with the fly rods, flyline and then Fluoro or mono and depending on what where and how I am fishing.Once I setup an outfit, be it spin, or cast, I make sure every outfit I have is setup for proper use, for the tactic I bought it for, with BRAID. I fish lighter lures, get down quicker, and feel more than I ever did with mono or fluoro, and refill my reels every 2 to 5 YEARS!! During those years the only thing I replace is leaders, and every single one of them use a leader from 4lbs test to 130 lbs test, in ether fluoro or mono. I will turn the braid around on the spool after 1 to 2 or 2 1/2 years when it starts to get to raggedy and needs a few yards more yards of backing to fill it again from being trimmed and having leader changes. I always use leaders lighter than my braid, and this allows me to determine what breaks off and where. I will never loose all my braid. If I ever was going to get spooled it would be a simple matter to realize, I haven't stopped this fish yet, and it's time to grab the spool or thumb it to allow the leader to break off. One advantage of using a proper leader!! NEVER EVER LOOSE MY BRAID! I never use over 20 or 30lbs test braid 6-8 lbs mono dia. except on my frog heavy jig outfit that doubles as my light Pike Musky rod, and it has 50lbs test, and 832 Sufix is my preferred main line.
I agree on my weightless rigs in the wind it is not good "if you keep the tip raised in the air over your head", but pretty simple to hold the rod down a few inches off the water and absolutely no affect from the wind and reap all the benefits from using it. The benny's are smaller diameter line and less weight to get down quicker especially in currents, and this allows me to rigg the same reel in calm water or fast water, and shallow or deep. plus I don't have to yank with all my might to set a hook, even with 50 to 100 yards of line out, but I also feel every little hump and transition of soft hard rock weed whatever. If your having trouble casting weightless get a Team Gold or Tournament Pro, it helped me!!
The only other thing I have ever had to do special to use braid and get all it's benefits over mono or fluoro is use the proper rod for braid with treble baits, (crankbaits). I learned from all the years speed trolling miles and miles of Lake Erie with deep diving cranks, and to using shallow divers with mechanical release aids, was I had to depend on very moderate actions on my rods. This was easy to transfer to bass, walleye, and panfish on smaller water. Instead of 8' Downrigger or Trolling rods, I went to rods deliberately made for Crankbaits! When I throw cranks I run as light a line as possible 6 and 8 pound mono diameter and always on my St. Croix Cranckbait rods, and there are other makes, suite yourself! These rods have a much more forgiving Moderate action in Light, Medium, and Med Heavy Power, when properly used they really hold fish, and allow the use of braid with almost no fish being lost do to ripped out hooks. I have seen that with mono these rods miss more fish on the initial hookup, but not as much with braid, and once they are on using mono or braid, very few pull hooks out regardless of line.
The one exception I have using Fast actions and heavt powers for crankbaits, is when I'm fishing for Pike and Musky, for the fishing I do I would only use Braid and Fast actions and Heavy power rods for all tactics. These fish attack with viscous aggression, and one thing on their mind, "ENGULF" for these fish, and I am targeting fish over 40", I only use Braid and 100lbs to 130lbs test custom made Fluoro leaders, but depend on the braid and the Fast Heavy action to set the trebles in their extremely bony and hard mouth or jaws, once they are set, there is very little chance coming loose, but you need enough power to penetrate there boney structure. Braid excels for this.
.ghoti. reply :
You ask for opinions. I'll give you one. The worst time to use braid is when you are fishing.
TrippyJai reply :
I use it for punching, flipping, frogging and lipless cranks.
I avoid it when I'm fishing in rocky areas, clear water and crankbaits with treble hooks. Adding a leader helps as well.
Hogsticker reply :
0 stretch 100% of the time. The ONLY time I'm not using braid is with weightless plastics as fluoro does offer better slack line sensitivity. When I'm trolling I know exactly what my bait is doing at all times. If I pick up a leaf, grass, whatever, I instantly know. I throw spinner baits with it, lipless and billed cranks, jerk baits - The key is having the right action rod, and correct diameter braid. I can throw further with it, it's harder to backlash (and easier to dig out), and it lasts a very long time. The best thing about braid - It has no memory! I see no other reason to use anything else. My OPINION of course!!
flippin and pitchin reply :
The worst time to use braid? With the exception of drop shotting, any time you have to ad a leader. And the drop shot deal's jury is still out for me. I plan to give it a fair chance, at least a full season before the braid spool goes back in the box and the flouro goes full time. Just to clarify a point, I rig my drop shot with a very small black barrel swivel, to reduce line twist, so the braid to leader Alberto knot is not employed.
To chide in on the topwatwer/braid issue........my Super Spook rod has braid. I fish it in clear water and moving water with very long casts and need it to float and avoid stretch. There are some draw backs but those advantages outweigh them. The Spook and Lunker Punker are the only non-frog topwater baits that get braid.
Scott F reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 12:42 PM, Virtuoso said:The buoyancy and drag that braid has makes it a terrible line for any cranking techniques. Not to mention that treble hooks will tear it apart. For jerkbait use fluorocarbon or mono are much better choices and give the bait a much more natural action. Also, if it is windy braid is severely effected. It bellies heavily for any light weight application due to its hydrophobic/buoyancy tendencies. During bottom contact applications, there are many times where the line is slack, braid does not transmit vibrations during these times. Other lines offer a more consistent feel throughout the entire process.
I disagree with your opinion. Braid is not so buoyant that it has any effect on how deep lure will dive. I use suspending jerkbaits a lot on braid and if the line was so buoyant, it would not allow the baits to suspend which is not the case. On the contrary, the thinner line has considerably less resistance and allows lure to run MUCH deeper than mono or fluoro of comparable line strength. The larger the diameter a line is, the more resistance it has in the water shallower a lure will run. Also tests done several years ago show that the stretch of mono makes strike detection difficult especially on lines of less than 20 pound test. I'm like one of the other posters and find that there is no situation where I prefer mono or fluoro to braid.
LApanic reply :
Wow, guys/gals the responses have been kinda a-typical from what I expected, and see why one poster called the forums heavy "braid/PowerPro" users. I am one myself so I guess that makes me typical, lol
The reason I posted the topic was to really see how I was using it compared to others using the same techniques, some different and experiences. Here is my standard issue setup for almost 90% of my fishing, club tournaments, ponds, etc.
- Quantum 7:1 on a Veritas 7'6" MH - 50# PowerPro (Mossy Green)
- Flipping/Pitching
- C-Rig (fluorocarbon leader)
- Buzz Frog
- Buzz Bait
- Swim Jigs
- A-Rig (very light)
- BPS ProQ 7:1 on Shimano Sojurn 7' M - 50# PowerPro (Green of course)
- Walking the dog's
- Hollow Body frogs
- 90% of T-Rigging (normally NO leader unless the water's clear)
- Soft Jerkbaits (14# Sunline FC 24" leader)
- etc
- 3rd Tournament Setup same as last ^^^
- Plueger Echelon 6:3:1 on Fenwick 7' MH - 15# Seaguar InvisX
- Crank baits (larger)
- Spinnerbaits
- Some Jigs (finesse)
- etc
- Quantum Tour Edition PT on Allstar 6'6" Medium - 14# P-Line Copolymer
- Smaller Plugs (2-4ft)
- Square Bills
- etc.
- Plueger President Med Size spinning - Quantum 7' M - 20# PowerPro (green again)
- 10% of T-Rigging (ponds, deeper water, finesse)
- Secondary Soft Jerkbait/Jerkbait Rod
- **Most all the time have 18"-24" 12# FC leader for applications above
All in all, i'm catching fish and am confident in what I use. I do fish a lot of grass lakes/ponds so i'm comfortable and confident in these setups and that plays a big role!
LApanic reply :
I would have NEVER landed that 6# in my Avatar if it wasn't for Braid!.... throwing a CottonCordell Crazy Shad Prop bait
iabass8 reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 12:42 PM, Virtuoso said:The buoyancy and drag that braid has makes it a terrible line for any cranking techniques. Not to mention that treble hooks will tear it apart. For jerkbait use fluorocarbon or mono are much better choices and give the bait a much more natural action. Also, if it is windy braid is severely effected. It bellies heavily for any light weight application due to its hydrophobic/buoyancy tendencies. During bottom contact applications, there are many times where the line is slack, braid does not transmit vibrations during these times. Other lines offer a more consistent feel throughout the entire process.
Braid, however, does due fairly well for punching grass. Anyways, if the bait sinks I want a line that sinks. A premium fluoro works very well for a technique where you want a line to sink. For floating applications minus frogging I feel a quality mono like suffix siege or elite works well. This is a braid/powerpro heavy forum so I am sure most will disagree. Having used braid extensively, it does not even compare in performance to Tatsu or even a mid-priced FC sniper for that matter. But like you said, agree to disagree.
i agree with this as well.
Thatbasstardbrent reply :
Well the worst time to use braid is in clear water because it is high visibility. the best time is on cloudy days that have stained or worse water. Also try not to use it on aluminum guides as it may make a groove in the aluminum from all the friction.
dodgeguy reply :
there are no bad times to use braid.
fishking247 reply :
jerkbaits. i have tried braid for every other technique in the past and it is manageable but i could not stand braid with jerkbaits. i am a big mono guy the only time i use braid is real heavy cover. i hate flouro
wnybassman reply :
My deep cranking success rate dramatically increased once I started using straight braid. I've switched over to braid for all topwater as well, which is mainly Super Spooks and Zell Pops (along with frogs). I am not buying into the braid not being good for treble hooked baits thing. I am still all flouro for all my flipping and pitching though, but that is just what is most comfortable for me.
ww2farmer reply :
On 6/30/2013 at 1:48 PM, skeletor6 said:I'm with this guy.
I'm not.
SirSnookalot reply :
Most of the replies are focused around bass fishing, casting and retrieving in some fashion being the predominate technique. I use braid almost 100% of the time but in my experience 3 times comes to mind when it may not be my best option. 1.Trolling with lures that spin quite a bit, the line twist created is terrible, I've wasted entire spools in very short order, ball bearing swivels won't eliminate it. 2.Casting and retrieving lures than spin, certain spoons and inline spinners, not near as bad as trolling but in time the line will twist, I'm still a gluton for punishment, and at times I do use mono. 3.Drift fishing on a party boat, many species will encircle the boat and tangle up many lines, the mates just cut line, many captains do not allow braid on these boats. Also when drifting with bait the turns over in the water and again creating line twist. I do use braid on private boats for drift fishing, I have to change it more often.
For my freshwater and inshore saltwater fishing I haven't used anything that beats braid.
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