Reel Drag per technique 2024
juicebass reply :
Hey guys,
Looking to get a look at what drags should be set on a baitcast reel and spinning reel for specific techniques.
For example, I've heard a lot about setting the drag full for frog fishing. I've also seen that different applications require different settings. Can you share?
Specifically looking for drag settings on baitcast for-
1-frogs
2-jigs
3-plastics
4-plastic craws
5-spinnerbaits
6-crank baits
7-swim bait
8-swim jig
9- top water
10-buzzbait
Spinning set up for-
1- wacky rig
2 - drop shot
3- carolina rig
4- Etc...
Looking to get some insight into what drags to set. Most times i feel lost on how tight to set the drag. Would love to learn some rules of thumb when it comes to specific techniques.
Thanks!!
EvanT123 reply :
That's a good question.
Frogs-lock it down.
I like the drag to slip with a steady pull when I'm fishing weightless or trebles.
If I'm fishing the bottom I go a quarter or half turn more.
Simple but I hope it helps.
Montanaro reply :
Also depends on ths drag itself. A stuttering drag is worse than setting it too light
Catt reply :
I set my drag the same on every reel!
Montanaro reply :
I have more time to post now...trebled lures are pretty loose drag 50% maybe. Just want the drag to slip some with moderate pressure. Frogs jigs soft plastics is always 100%. Spinnerbaits buzzbaits and swimjigs are 75%.
Spinning setups vary. Depends on line size, rod, and quality of drag. You should be adjusting drag on the fly.
Maxmaxryan123 reply :
this is my first post btw!
Goose52 reply :
I set my drag by feel and probably end up around 30% of line test (perhaps even less than that). I like to feel the drag slip just a bit on the hook-set.
The only time I would go with a heavier drag setting might be if fishing in heavy slop where you have to drag the fish out of the heavy stuff, and as mentioned above, with frogs. HOWEVER, locking the drag down, and using braid, might have a tendency to result in an occasional broken rod if you have a really stout drag stack.
I might loosen the drag after hook-set if I'm in open water, and am trying to protect the hook-up on the fish. I also might loosen the drag if I have a very big fish coming back close to the boat or bank, and fishing with nylon mono or flouro, to protect the line in case the fish makes a sudden run.
Use the drag appropriately to protect your line and hook-up, but no need to have a different drag plan for all of those baits that you listed.
Catt reply :
On 15# Big Game my drag is @ 10# leaving my 5# to play fish with.
I dang sure don't want anything slipping on hook set!
the reel ess reply :
I lock it down on the frog with heavy line and a good rod/reel combo. If I had a questionable (cheap) combo, I'd set it a little over halfway. The fact is you can't set a drag on a BC reel higher than the break strength of 65# braid. But you can lock it to where almost no bass you catch will take it out so you can drag the bass and the salad they accumulate out of the water.
Everything else I set it about 3/8 of the break strength if I was using mono line. But that's just a feel. I don't get out a scale and check it.
Delaware Valley Tackle reply :
I discourage the practice of locking a drag down completely. Leave a little to protect the Rod and reel from undue strain. Most reels will give some even at highest settings. A star drag is easily adjusted while landing fish if need be. The rule of thumb is 1/3 of line rating (mono equivalent diameter for braid). I don't see any reason to adjust for technique .
Goose52 reply :
On 1/15/2016 at 11:34 PM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:I discourage the practice of locking a drag down completely. Leave a little to protect the Rod and reel from undue strain. Most reels will give some even at highest settings. A star drag is easily adjusted while landing fish if need be. The rule of thumb is 1/3 of line rating (mono equivalent diameter for braid). I don't see any reason to adjust for technique .
I left that out of my post. My use of 30% of line test applied to nylon mono and flouro. DVT IMHO has an excellent recommendation when it comes to braid.
the reel ess reply :
On 1/15/2016 at 11:34 PM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:I discourage the practice of locking a drag down completely. Leave a little to protect the Rod and reel from undue strain. Most reels will give some even at highest settings. A star drag is easily adjusted while landing fish if need be. The rule of thumb is 1/3 of line rating (mono equivalent diameter for braid). I don't see any reason to adjust for technique .
I probably should have said "in heaviest cover" because I don't do that most places and I don't fish a LOT of slop either. But I do set it higher on the frog rod with braid. I'm in the kayak, so I can go get a bass anywhere. If I spook them, I just paddle past it and come back later. bass have a short memory for sure.
J Francho reply :
Irrespective of technique, I go with this rule of thumb: 1/3 to 1/2 the rating of the weakest link in the system. So if you're using 50# braid, with a 15# leader on a rod rated to 20# line, you can go 5-8 lbs. of resistance, and be assured nothing will break, provided you tie a good knot.
Paul Roberts reply :
BCing: just shy of the weakest link.
Spinning: Lock it down and back-reel.
roadwarrior reply :
All my drags are set the same: slight release. In terms of drag weight that equates to about 2 1/2 lbs.
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rippin-lips reply :
1/3 - 1/2
clh121787 reply :
If I fished lakes with open water I'd use lighter line and set drag loose. But I don't all of my drags are locked down. Most of my rigs are 17 to 20 pound line. Alot of people here at fork say 20 is the minimum. Here you have to turn a fish and keep it comming or you risk getting wrapped in a tree and broke off. All this is simply dictated by my home waters
Molay1292 reply :
On 1/16/2016 at 1:23 AM, Paul Roberts said:BCing: just shy of the weakest link.
Spinning: Lock it down and back-reel.
Paul, why do you feel it is an advantage to set your spinning reels in this manner?
Paul Roberts reply :
I've posted a bunch over the years on back-reeling, as explanation, then almost always in defense. I've never opened a back-reeling thread. Drag may be simpler -maybe. Bottom line I guess is that I just don't want to turn control of my fish over to a mindless stack of washers.
Here's another (I must have missed):
roadwarrior reply :
Well, I will just agree to disagree. Today's technology trumps many of the "old school" techniques and this is one of those. I know some guys cast with all brakes off, too. That would not be me.
WRB reply :
Agree with DVT, 1/3rd the lb test on the reel for mono and FC, not less than 2 lbs or exceeding 5 lbs, except swimbaits the weigh over 4 oz, go up to 6 lbs.
Heavy cover using 65 lb braid, 6 to 8 lbs drag.
If I need more drag use my thumb on the spool for bait casting and index finger for spinning, I don't back reel.
Tom
Josh Smith reply :
When using braid, no leader:
Single hooks: 3/4 to full drag. I'm usually fishing salad with this, and go to full lockdown. I've known some folks who take pliers to their drags. I'm not one of those.
Treble hooks: Generally not used without a leader, but would go to 1/4 to 1/2 drag as long as the drag's not slipping on the retrieve. I'm thinking deep crankbaits here.
When using braid with leader, or mono:
Single hooks: Generally not used, but on the rare occasion they are (like with round head jigs) I set the drag to 1/3 to 1/2 the weakest link, with the weakest link generally being tied at the lure.
Treble hooks: 1/4 to 1/2 the weakest link breaking point. I'm usually fishing open water and I do this to prevent fish loss more than anything.
Josh
.ghoti. reply :
25 - 33% of line test. When I'm trout fishing, that's about 1 lb. up to about 5 lbs for my heaviest power combos.
Molay1292 reply :
I probably should practice a better method of setting my drag, but this seems to work for me. I just pull line from the end of the reel until it feels right to me. I can adjust on the fly and use my thumb on the spool if needed. Not what I would recommend, but works for me.
papajoe222 reply :
I've always backed off the drag on my reels at the end of the day, even if I plan on fishing the next day. I reset them the next time out, likely a lot looser than most, but then I drop my thumb on the spool when setting the hook, or if I feel I need to when fighting a fish.
Molay1292 reply :
On 1/16/2016 at 10:35 PM, Paul Roberts said:I've posted a bunch over the years on back-reeling, as explanation, then almost always in defense. I've never opened a back-reeling thread. Drag may be simpler -maybe. Bottom line I guess is that I just don't want to turn control of my fish over to a mindless stack of washers.
Here's another (I must have missed):
No need to defend your preference with me. I was asking as it is something that I do not practice. I keep my drag systems clean and in good shape and they work for me, but I am always up for learning a better way.
corn-on-the-rob reply :
On spinning rods, I keep it just shy of locked for the hookset, then loosen accordingly on the fly if the fish is large enough.
BC's I tighten just shy of locked and am always ready to thumb a free spool if the pull is hard enough.
It is important to note that I run relatively heavy line for my spinning set ups, I just always feel that I never want my drag to slip too much on a hookset unless I am using very light line.
BassNBarry reply :
Appreciate your drag-set advice for your spinning rig. I use 12-lb fc and a medium-power rod and never had a fish break off. On the flip side, I've missed getting better hook sets because of lighter drag and less power in the rod. I'll tighten the drag and see how I like it. No problem with my BC's. Would like to hear any other advice for setting drag on a spinning rig.
68camaro reply :
On 1/15/2016 at 11:34 PM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:The rule of thumb is 1/3 of line rating (mono equivalent diameter for braid). I don't see any reason to adjust for technique .
But how do you set the drag for specific weight? For instance if I am fishing with 12 lb line, how do I set it for 4 lbs? I use Lews and Curado.
Paul Roberts reply :
I was watching MLF recently and saw those pro's spinning reel's drag's buzzing with each 1+lb fish. Boyd Duckett (I believe it was) was reeling while the drag was turning! I don't get it. Back-reeling is SO much more efficient. It's less mindless, but mindless is not necessarily better. Just MHO. 
gulfcaptain reply :
On 2/7/2016 at 12:35 AM, Paul Roberts said:I was watching MLF recently and saw those pro's spinning reel's drag's buzzing with each 1+lb fish. Boyd Duckett (I believe it was) was reeling while the drag was turning! I don't get it. Back-reeling is SO much more efficient. It's less mindless, but that's not necessarily better. Just MHO.
I used to back reel, but the reels I have now don't have that option so using the drag is the only option and when using smaller hooks with braid and lighter FC, a light drag helps not pull the hook or brake them off. But I understand your point as well. It does come in handly.
Delaware Valley Tackle reply :
On 2/6/2016 at 9:04 PM, 68camaro said:But how do you set the drag for specific weight? For instance if I am fishing with 12 lb line, how do I set it for 4 lbs? I use Lews and Curado.
You can attach a spring scale or known weight to the end of the line and adjust accordingly. I just go by feel. It's not all that critical to get too scientific.
Josh Smith reply :
I recall losing fish back in the day of fiber drags. I'd adjust on the fly and it would stick and the line would break.
Today's drags are a blessing that this latest generation may not fully appreciate. Even the large drag stars would have been a great addition to some reels of yesterday.
It's hard to appreciate back reeling, I think, if you've never had to. And for some, changing techniques to adapt to new technology can lead to lost fish. 2016 is my fourth year with the new drags, and I am just beginning to fully trust them.
Regards,
Josh
Bluebasser86 reply :
On 1/15/2016 at 2:46 PM, juicebass said:Hey guys,
Looking to get a look at what drags should be set on a baitcast reel and spinning reel for specific techniques.
For example, I've heard a lot about setting the drag full for frog fishing. I've also seen that different applications require different settings. Can you share?
Specifically looking for drag settings on baitcast for-
1-frogs
2-jigs
3-plastics
4-plastic craws
5-spinnerbaits
6-crank baits
7-swim bait
8-swim jig
9- top water
10-buzzbait
Spinning set up for-
1- wacky rig
2 - drop shot
3- carolina rig
4- Etc...
Looking to get some insight into what drags to set. Most times i feel lost on how tight to set the drag. Would love to learn some rules of thumb when it comes to specific techniques.
Thanks!!
I keep it simple, lock it down, then use the thumb bar or back reel as needed.
roadwarrior reply :
About 2 1/2 lbs for everything.
Jeff H reply :
On 2/7/2016 at 12:52 AM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:I just go by feel. It's not all that critical to get too scientific.
My method as well. Like Bluebasser, I also lock some of mine down, or pretty close to it. Jerkbaits and crankbaits I might run a bit looser but they would not be considered loose. I do quite a bit of backreeling with spinning rigs too.
Fishinthefish reply :
I set my drag to 50% of the line strength of the line that I have on for hooksets (or rough guess of that at least). On my go to rod, I have 22lb worth of drag, but only 30lb braid test on it. So I set the drag for between 12-17 pounds of drag that I hand test the strength of. I'm never worried about drag per technique because a hook set is a hookset, it's more so in the rod matching the type of hook and bait you're using than the drag being set properly, unless it's too loose. Just my amateur opinion.
JGBassinAL reply :
I just do it by feel except for frogs, punching, or pitching in laydowns then I tighten it all the way down. Honestly, the only time I need my drag is if the fish is away from the boat. When the fish is by the boat I press down the clutch and thumb the spool and control the drag myself. Then you don't have to worry about your drag failing.
Delaware Valley Tackle reply :
Releasing the clutch under load is hard on a reel and much more likely to damage something than the chances of drag failure which is nil in any but the most neglected bass reel.
Goose52 reply :
Some of the comments about back-reeling and not trusting drags on either spinning or BC reels, along with recent threads about folks disdaining BC reel braking systems and maintaining that only an "educated thumb" is necessary...make me think of Fred Flintstone's car with the hole in the floor. Don't need fancy technology - just stick your feet on the ground to stop the car...
Just sayin'...
A-Jay reply :
I used to back reel with a spinner - back when drags were prone to sticking. Don't do it any more, have felt I needed to. Routinely have respectable Brown bass pull the drag pretty good with 4 & 6 lb leader. Don't know what I set it at exactly, just know it's pretty light. The only manual manipulation I may do to a spinner is to put a finger on the spool just to slow a good run. Additionally some of the by catch up here is of sufficient size to really test ones drag & fish fighting skills.
I rarely have the need to adjust a casting reels drag after the days initial setting. But I would if I needed to.
A-Jay
FSUFish reply :
Locked down drags and 50# braid? The fish don't stand a chance! I'd rather have the tug of the fish than horsing him in.
I do 25% of line test. Never had a fish break me off.
Paul Roberts reply :
The talk about current drag technology is not where I'm coming from on back-reeling. It's the whole idea of just who is giving out line and when. I don't want my rigs giving line when I don't want them too.
There are advantages to back-reeling in many places, but in bass fishing it's esp noticeable when pulling fish out of heavy cover. You need to have their head pointing at you and coming in. Let them get a shoulder against you and you are then fighting tail. Winching with a locked down drag is the best way. But... there's a risk there, esp if you just happen to not be using 65# braid at the moment. People handle this different ways. With a casting rig, lock down, and free-spool when necessary. Or, clamp a thumb down and pull. But then you reach the top of your pull, you gotta reel, and the drag gives! That 6 inches of line your reel (not you) just gave allows that fish to turn his head down and the shoulders and tail follow. Wrestle him back up again, and again, until he tires, or buries. In some places, you don't want them to bury. In milfoil we have to go over and dig them out. In wood we may have to wait and let them un-wrap themselves. In Chara (stuffs like steel wool) you have to wait them out. In rip-rap, you can try changing angles -and will have to re-tie- but you may be better off waiting them out. I've even had bass swim down into muskrat burrows!
When using drag, you just have to be sure you're appropriately, possibly over-, gunned. With drag, if you go heavy enough it shouldn't matter all that much, you've got an efficient winch. Go to 65# braid and you're set.
With spinning tackle, it's a different story; You can lock down and back-reel, if needed. Most often, it's not needed. If I find I didn't lock my drag down sufficiently, I'm apt to let out a stream of cusswords that can damage ear drums within a mile radius. I give line when I deem it appropriate. "What the heck (#%#@^) is that drag doing anyway -thinking for me!??" I don't want my drag slipping -ever. I know how deep a bend in my rod the line can take. If I feel it's weakened I can back off. Line gets short -at boatside- I can back off. When I need to I can max things out. Seeing anglers fumbling with their drags (remember rear-drags, and "fightin' drags?), or setting so light the drag gives with every little turn of that fish's head, makes me... shake my head. Just why Boyd Duckett's fish were being given line, and twisting up his line, is lost on me. Some technology.
BTW, fish don't have to be dog-tired to give up. Tugging and pulling and giving keeps them motivated, and their fins dug in. I decide when my reel gives line. And I'm darn stingy with it.
I have no interest in talking anyone into back-reeling. At the same time, I can't see allowing a mindless stack of washers fight my fish for me. Thanks, but I don't need the "protection".
J Francho reply :
I get the technique - it works. I can't do it with a spinning reel, but I have no choice with a centrepin. It's actually better than any drag system, when you have a 8-12# steelhead on with a 4# leader. You're in control of the pressure. I get it, just cannot for the life of me get on board with bass fishing, lol.
Try it, see what happens. You might like it. Some very good drop shotters use it. Rich Zaleski <cough-cough>...
WIGuide reply :
I try to keep it pretty simple. For my flippin', pitchin' and froggin' rods I don't lock them down, but they're pretty close to max drag. For treble hook baits I keep them nice and loose. Loose enough that the drag may slightly slip on a hard hookset. Everything else I have set pretty much right in the middle. I keep it tight enough that it won't budge on a hookset, but light enough that if my line is weakened I'm not going to break off before the drag gives. My system isn't exact as I don't set them with a scale, but use a hand to check.
Paul Roberts reply :
On 2/10/2016 at 11:14 PM, J Francho said:I get the technique - it works. I can't do it with a spinning reel, but I have no choice with a centrepin. It's actually better than any drag system, when you have a 8-12# steelhead on with a 4# leader. You're in control of the pressure. I get it, just cannot for the life of me get on board with bass fishing, lol.
Try it, see what happens. You might like it. Some very good drop shotters use it. Rich Zaleski <cough-cough>...
John, I came to understand "complete control" fly-fishing for stripers and trout in open water with a single action (1:1) fly reel. I found if I stayed smooth -no tugging or popping on the fish- they'd not really know what's up and I could reel a fish straight in (just like you need to do with bass in cover) headfirst right to my feet or boatside. I came to call winching unsuspecting fish in (and quickly) "torque-reeling". Then of course I had a green fish on a short-line, but that's not the point. Tugging, pumping, giving line, alarms the fish and they run away! Fighting a neutrally buoyant critter is all about shoulders, flanks and tail. Keep their head pointed at you and they have no choice.
I learned to whip big trout on light lines (like you describe) -including some approaching 10lbs on 1lb Trilene- by lulling them in, via "torque-reeling". Do I do this with bass? No, not necessary much of the time, except for those in dense cover described above. However, I do not give line that doesn't need to be given. How often do bass need line given -at least an amount that your rod and arm length cannot give? If really needed -like the line maxes on a really large one, or the fish isn't hooked well on a small gapped hook, etc..- I can easily make a half-turn back and give.
Florida Cracker2 reply :
On 2/8/2016 at 12:53 PM, FSUFish said:Locked down drags and 50# braid? The fish don't stand a chance! I'd rather have the tug of the fish than horsing him in.
I do 25% of line test. Never had a fish break me off.
That's what I was thinking reading through this post. Playing a fish is more sporting to me than winching him in. I just set my drag stiff enough for a good hookset and tire the fish. But I guess tournament fishing is different than sportfishing and would do the same if money/prestige were riding on it.
Paul Roberts reply :
On 2/12/2016 at 1:06 AM, Florida Cracker2 said:That's what I was thinking reading through this post. Playing a fish is more sporting to me than winching him in. I just set my drag stiff enough for a good hookset and tire the fish. But I guess tournament fishing is different than sportfishing and would do the same if money/prestige were riding on it.
When I mention 'winching' I'm talking about bass in cover where they can wrap up. In open water I'm happy to let them show their stuff. However, drag isn't needed for that to happen. Rod and arm length absorb most of what most bass will dish out -at least up here in the North.
Florida Cracker2 reply :
I wasn't referring to your comment.
Paul Roberts reply :
On 2/12/2016 at 7:48 AM, Florida Cracker2 said:I wasn't referring to your comment.
Yeah, I know. Just jumping off, since I said so much about winching and not giving line.
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