I've never jig fished and I am going to force myself to learn! Trying to figure out which line to go with. I was planning on using the setup I use for frogging (a Shimano SLX 8.2:1 with 50# 832 braid on a Dobyns SA735C rod) but after reading all of the jig post on here I see a lot of people using FC. Here in Missouri I doubt I would be getting into some super gnarly spots so abrasion protection is not necessarily the highest of priorities. I just figured never really fishing bottom contact baits using something as sensitive as braid would really help me to detect a bite plus the power of braid to horse fish out of muck or to keep them from scurrying into brush or something once hooked. IDK, what is the thought process here for a newbie?
I prefer Fluorocarbon for jigs. I like the slack line sensitivity it gives me and I like how the line sinks . I tried using braid and I didn't like it at all, but it works for a lot of other people. Since you already have a setup with braid I would try it first before going out and buying new line.
On 10/14/2019 at 11:31 PM, pauldconyers said:Here in Missouri I doubt I would be getting into some super gnarly spots so abrasion protection is not necessarily the highest of priorities.
Lots of rocks in my experience in MO.
Try the braid, if you like it and have abrasion issues you can also add a leader.
Lol, I actually prefer the characteristics of braid over anything.
Clear water, I'll use a FC leader.
Use what you use for bullet weight Texas rigged worms.
Tom
For a jig bottom applications (pitching , football jig , etc. ) - I like the sink rate that FC #12 lb. to #17 lb. provides .
For jigs I'm reeling in the water column constantly (i.e. swim jigs) , a braid mainline will do fine ...
If your water is clear go with fluro.
If it's stained then you can go with braid.
I dont use a leader with my braid, that's why I usually only use it in stained water.
Most of the time I use fluro.
I'd say neither, but you can't catch jig fish with mono anymore apparently so go with the flouro.
I dunno, caught a bunch of them green fish on mono for a few years..lol
On 10/15/2019 at 4:43 PM, Hammer 4 said:I dunno, caught a bunch of them green fish on mono for a few years..lol
I still do ????♂️ Works just fine for jigs when I'm not in real heavy cover.
Any type of line will work. I personally use fluoro for the abrasion resistance up around docks and wood, but braid will work fine too. Just depends what you have most confidence in.
Try both.
The one you like better, use that.
Personally, I like the tad amount of stretch of FC but can, have and will use both.
Use whichever one makes a cooler sound whenever you hook into a good one on a short leash.
(I'll give you a hint. It's both )
I fish a lot of medium heavy to sparse fallen trees, and fully submerged timber. I always use braid to leader because I don't like the way braid drags over the trees underwater. It digs in a little and makes a weird sound that I have seen spook bass. The mono or fluoro will slide right over the branches more easily, and is more abrasion resistant. I love dragging and dancing jigs through trees with braid to leader, it's so sensitive.
I primarily use 30lb braid to 15-20lb leader. Hope another opinion helps you out.
If sensitivity is your goal braid is your answer.
IMHO, the best way to fish jigs or other finesse techniques is braid with an FC leader, the leader made of leader-grade FC, not FC line which is designed to be somewhat soft and flexible to facilitate easier handling.
Line will work; I've used it too, but the best leader, with no disadvantages, is leader-grade FC. One uses so little in a season that it's price is not a significant disadvantage.
When I started out I use braid to help me feel the bottom. I wasn’t expect to catch any fish just drag it around, feel all type of bottom and tried not to get the jig to snag. I used to lost jig most every time.
These days I’m still learning and use all type of line depends on location.
I found that FC and copolymer line help me finesse my jig out of jungle better than braid. Braid help tremendously when long cast and still get a good hook set.
I’ll use braid (30lb pp) when fish deep and long cast. I’ll use FC/copolymer when fish around dock and rocky area in shallow. I used to think that 1/4oz jig or lighter is better when fish from bank (less hang up), but 3/8 is my go to now. A lot of ppl recommend football jig for rock type bottom but I found Arkie style jig is way better. I don’t use braid with any type leader because that is to add another possibility weak link to your equation.
Remember with jig (thick hook and weed guard) you need to set hook hard. I just lost again a bass last night jig fishing from my kayak. I have lost many bass due to poor hook set especially when I fish from kayak and float tube. This is another thing I need to learn to set hook harder.
Go braid to leader. Ur 50lb is fine no need to change it although a 40lb would probably get a little extra casting distance. But go to like a 12-14lb fluorocarbon leader.
Many reasons to do this man the biggest one for me is I can break off if I get snagged too bad ! You'll be cutting off a whole lot of braid or having to find something to wrap it around to pull it and who knows where the line will snap cuz it's rarely at the knot if you use a palomar . That alone is enough reason for me to use the leader but the fluoro also sinks unlike the braid , and it is also less visible for the fish. And you don't need all the line management that a full spool of fluoro requires ; and the casting distance from braid can not be beat !
Get confident with your knots and it's no issue at all.
Braid to fluorocarbon leader is the way to go.!!
I like 12 or 15lb trilene big game. Tried braid with jigs and didn’t like it. I don’t use Fluoro
On 10/16/2019 at 11:31 PM, Bass_Fishing_Socal said:I found that FC and copolymer line help me finesse my jig out of jungle better than braid. Braid help tremendously when long cast and still get a good hook set.
I’ll use braid (30lb pp) when fish deep and long cast. I’ll use FC/copolymer when fish around dock and rocky area in shallow.
Try Hitena's Pureline 21 pound test, only .006 diameter for the best of everything, casts very long, no stretch, good knot strength. Seems abrasion resistant. I haven't tried it without a leader because when changing lures I don't want to sacrifice the braid. It is pretty pricey but lasts well. I have some in it's 3rd season and it works and looks like new. I just don't seem to get wind knots with it. (Fuji KLH guides) Sensitivity is much much better than either FC or copolymer, and you can use a pound test that casts great and isn't fragile like the lighter FC's and co's.
I use braid in weeds and fluoro or copoly near rocks, docks, and laydowns.
I have used YZH, braid, braid to leader, and this year, I've done extensive work with fluoro on a jig rod.
The jury is still out. I do love the feel of fluoro and I've come to believe that 'slack line sensitivity' is a real thing.
But.....and it's a big but....I fish from a kayak and with a little less leverage/swing space/whatever....not to mention reduced line visibility...I haven't gotten the reliable hooksets that I got with braid. I don't keep stats, but I'm convinced that I have missed a lot more fish on straight fluoro than any braid or braid/leader.
I recognize and acknowledge those that are totally against adding another knot to the equation, but I think after a few years of experimenting, I'm going to go back to braid with leader for most of my jig fishing. (I have less leader knot failure with the larger lines on my jig rods than on finesse rigs....just need to be extremely careful, diligent and retie every couple trips.)
On 10/16/2019 at 12:53 AM, fishballer06 said:Use whichever one makes a cooler sound whenever you hook into a good one on a short leash.)
I will tell you what isn't a cool sound - fluoro line snapping. It's the loudest snap ever. Yesterday I forgot I had 8 pound test leader attached to 15# braid and set the hook like it was a jig fish in a mat with 50# test. The line snapped about 3 inches below my leader knot and it was the loudest snap ever.
The only good news...my knots held.
On 10/23/2019 at 2:10 AM, JediAmoeba said:The line snapped about 3 inches below my leader knot and it was the loudest snap ever.
Yet another reason thrown on top of the large pile of reasons why I never use leaders.
On 10/23/2019 at 1:09 AM, J Francho said:I use braid in weeds and fluoro or copoly near rocks, docks, and laydowns.
I'm similar. Braid for flipping/pitching into heavy cover that includes weeds/wood. But never rocks.
It appears due to vast varying opinions that no clear cut answer exists.
I throw mostly braid in 15# unless my bait is gonna sit for observation, then a 8# leader of Sunline FC goes on......like a Ned or drop shot and such.
Braid can misbehave in the wind and can form a love relationship with a front treble. But it's sensitivity and cast keeps me from straying.
FC unlike braid sinks which works well for those who finesse fish, think 1/16 ounce applications.
Just when you start to fall in love with that reel " spinning " full of fluorocarbon you find yourself sporting a pair of 3.0 reading glasses spinning in circles on the lake in a battle.
That's my short story.
I'm a fan of braid to leader from years of throwing it in the inshore salt as well as really starting my bass fishing hobby with Senkos and YUM Dingers. I like the casting distance to cover more water. The braid doesn't stretch, so it really aids with hook sets at distance. A lot of jig bites happen on the initial fall, and years of watching braid twitch on a stick bait bite gives me an advantage with those right off the top bites, as the braid is a highly visible line.
The fluorocarbon is there for the abrasion resistance, the ability to break off should I need to, and because some of the bodies of water I fish are very clear.
I don't think there's an incorrect way to go about it. There are advantages to straight fluoro, mono, copoly, straight braid, and braid to leader. I just prefer braid to leader.
I'd say try as many as you can and see what works best for you. The best setup is the one you have the most confidence in.
For me, I love using braid to flouro leader for everything except my cranking setups.
On 10/23/2019 at 4:01 AM, Shockwave said:I'd say try as many as you can and see what works best for you. The best setup is the one you have the most confidence in.
For me, I love using braid to flouro leader for everything except my cranking setups.
As others have said I'm skidish about adding another knot into the equation. Plus since a lot of my fishing is with my 8 year old son with all the attention he requires when we're on the boat stopping to tie leaders and such just sounds like a real issue.
If one wants to know where his leader/line will break he will use a leader significantly less strong than the line, a good line to leader knot like a double uni or FG, and a terminal knot that has only about 80 per cent knot strength. Size the whole setup so that that 80% is sufficient. It will break at the lure every time. Like 20 braid, 15 leader , and an improved clinch knot.
I've been fishing for the past 64 years and never saw the time I would need to use 40# or 50# test line. Even in salt water I never used anything close to that. What are you all doing? Pulling stumps. ????
On 10/23/2019 at 2:10 AM, JediAmoeba said:I will tell you what isn't a cool sound - fluoro line snapping. It's the loudest snap ever. Yesterday I forgot I had 8 pound test leader attached to 15# braid and set the hook like it was a jig fish in a mat with 50# test. The line snapped about 3 inches below my leader knot and it was the loudest snap ever.
The scariest is whenever you aren't paying attention and your partner sets the hook on one and the line snaps on the hookset. I almost jump out of my shoes every time.