How Much Line Should I Spool? And How Can I Tell? 2025
n8cas4 reply :
I tried bringing my line through a line counter when spooling, but that was a big pain. How do you know how much line your spooling on your reel? And how much should I be putting on anyways?
Here's my situation. I use cheap mono backing to fill up half the spool and then double uni to my the more expensive line. But how much line should I be putting on? I like to change my line often (maybe every 3-4 tournaments). I break off a ton and tie palomar knots most of the time (can waste more line than other knots). How much should I spool on for the typical 2500 spinning reels (8lb diameter is most common for spinning) and the typical 200 series curado's (12lb diameter is the average line I use for casting)?
I'm a firm believer in quality line, so I prefer Sunline for braid and Fluorocarbon. It's not cheap, so learning to be useful with my line will help me save some of that extra money needed to buy the more expensive line.
How many 2500 spinning spools could I fill with the typical 200 yards of 8lb Sunline Sniper? Two? Three? more?!?
Mike2841 reply :
On the reel it should list the capacity of the reel for several different line diameters.
roadwarrior reply :
The Curado Curado 200G holds around 120 yards of #50 braid.
Start with about 40 yards or 1/3 of the spool mono. Fill to capacity
with your braid, the back off 5 yards or so. Tie your fluorocarbon
leader and reel down so that the knot is just above the first guide
and over the tip 8" or so.
The leader will probably last a trip or two before needing replacement.
Braid does not need to be replaced unless you knick the line.
n8cas4 reply :
Thanks. My Braid stays on nearly all season. Turns nearly white, but it lasts. But I'm always unsure with my Fluoro how much I'm putting on. I know the line capacity for the 2500 stradic is 150 yards for the average 8lb line diameter. If I fill it half way with cheap 8lb mono that leaves me with 75 yards of good Fluoro - so It might be possible to spool three times with a 200 yard spool IF i'm exact (75 x 3 = 225 - close to 200). I wanted to know if anyone had a way to be more exact.
roadwarrior reply :
00 Mod suggests this:
Spool up some cheap line and attach a 1/2 ounce weight. Cast it in field as far as you can.
Now release the spool, grab your line at the rod tip and walk it to where the weight landed.
Pick up the weight and line, walk back to your rod and cut the line. Attach your good line
and fill the spool. Now you have two casting distances of good line.
If you want to be extra frugal, when the spool is down more than you like, walk it off and
cut the line again. Replace or add to the filler, retie and reel up your good line. Now you
are probably at two casts minus 20 yards, but the spool is full.
mc6524 reply :
Each reel has a retrival speed and distance for each turn of the reel handle. Based on the capacity of the reel, I also use an inexpensive mono as a backing on the reel. So for examplemy reel holds 120yards of 12lb test and ads a reel speed of 6.3:1 and a retrival distance of 24 in per turn here is how I proceed if I want 100yds of fluro on my reel:
I calculate the amount on mono I'm going to put on my reel baby the numbers of turns of my reel angle will equal 20 yes. In this case (36 in X 20 yds= the number of inces of mono I need I this case that equals 720 inches and since each turn of my reel handle equals 24 inches I will need to crank the reel handle 30 times to get 30 yds of my mono backing on my reel. After I do that I tie my fluro on using a blood knot an proceed filling my reel
This works with any pound test and you do not need to be that accurate but it will save you significantly money wise by not wasting expensive line.
n8cas4 reply :
Awesome. I'll have to try those out this spring. Thanks a lot.
Marty reply :
Just talking about spinning...I've used for years the number of cranks of the reel times the inches per turn, however, I don't know how accurate it is. My preference has been to use 50-60 yards of the good line on top of the backing.
n8cas4 reply :
How do you calculate inches per turn again?
roadwarrior reply :
Generally listed in "Specfications"
http://fish.shimano.com/publish/content/global_fish/en/us/index/products/reels/low_profile_baitcasting/Curado_E0.html
n8cas4 reply :
Thanks
n8cas4 reply :
I'm guessing a 201e7 is the same IPT as the 201g7
Preytorien reply :
I always thought with a baitcaster there'd be a general rule kind of thing like a spinning reel, where you fill it to within about 1/8in of the spool lip.
Nothing like that for baitcasters?
roadwarrior reply :
You can overfill a baitcaster to the point it gets sticky (line rubs against the frame).
If you do that with spinning tackle the line jumps off the spool.
ColdSVT reply :
On 1/18/2014 at 2:45 AM, PSN81 said:I always thought with a baitcaster there'd be a general rule kind of thing like a spinning reel, where you fill it to within about 1/8in of the spool lip.
Nothing like that for baitcasters?
Thats exactly what i do for all of my baitcasters. I also amm in the minority as i dont use backing on my two bait casters with braid. I use an arbor knot just like on my fly reel
aavery2 reply :
On 1/16/2014 at 2:33 AM, n8cas4 said:I tried bringing my line through a line counter when spooling, but that was a big pain. How do you know how much line your spooling on your reel? And how much should I be putting on anyways?
Here's my situation. I use cheap mono backing to fill up half the spool and then double uni to my the more expensive line. But how much line should I be putting on? I like to change my line often (maybe every 3-4 tournaments). I break off a ton and tie palomar knots most of the time (can waste more line than other knots). How much should I spool on for the typical 2500 spinning reels (8lb diameter is most common for spinning) and the typical 200 series curado's (12lb diameter is the average line I use for casting)?
I'm a firm believer in quality line, so I prefer Sunline for braid and Fluorocarbon. It's not cheap, so learning to be useful with my line will help me save some of that extra money needed to buy the more expensive line.
How many 2500 spinning spools could I fill with the typical 200 yards of 8lb Sunline Sniper? Two? Three? more?!?
If you want to know exactly how to figure it, this is it.
The edited article appears on page 58 in the June 2006 Edition of Saltwater Sportsman 50vsw
The following is the full article before editorial shortening.
Braid and Mono Capacity –
How to figure just the right amount of Mono backing for the quantity of
the Braid you want to use – or visa-versa.
By Adam Wilner
Many bottom-bumping anglers like to use the thinner and far more sensitive super braids to find their dinner. This type of line offers greater strength, much smaller diameters and the key – Unbelievable sensitivity. The down side it is that it costs 3 times the price of mono. Most anglers I know don’t want to spend upwards of $50 to fill the reel with line. The solution is simple. Put 150 yards of braid on the top and spool the rest with good old-fashioned monofilament.
The problem occurs when we try to get just the right amount of monofilament backing to add the amount of braid we have decided upon. I have heard of many methods to accomplish this. The best one I have heard requires a second, identical spool, where you put on the braid first and then add the mono until the spool is full. At this point you would take the end of the mono that you just put on and tie it onto the second reel. Now wind it on and you are done – perfect. Except you need another spool or in the case of most bottom rigs another reel. That is a costly way to add line.
With a little info and a calculator you can get the same result for free (or at least real cheap). However, you must remember that your results will only be as accurate as the information you use. If you are looking for perfection then I recommend that you take precautions. For example, test your line counter.
The first information you will need is how much line the reel will hold. It doesn’t matter if the manufacturer tells you a capacity in a different line size than you are going to use because we are going to convert all the numbers.
In the following illustration I am going to use The Penn 113H, 50 lb Power Pro and Ande 30lb mono for the backing.
The 113H has a capacity of 475 yards of 30 lb line. We need to know the diameter of the 30 lb. line Penn used in “their” calculations. I could have called them or sent an e-mail but Penn also printed the other capacity numbers (metric) on the Penn website www.pennreels.com. It is 435 Meters at .55 millimeters (mm). Don’t be frightened, like many of you, I don’t think in meters or millimeters either. The conversion tables are easy to use or you could simply go to www.onlineconversion.com and plug in your numbers. In this case I have converted meters to yards and millimeters to inches. These are the terms I am familiar with. You will also need to know the diameter of the lines. Power Pro has the specs posted on their website at www.powerpro.com. It says there that their 50 lb. test line is .014 inches in diameter. Finally, I will use Ande 30 lb. Monofilament as the backing www.andemonofilament.com. I found that 30 lb Ande is .022 inches in diameter.
Let’s jot down some conversions.
435 meters = 476 yards (rounded)
.55 mm = .0216535 inch
50 pound Power Pro = .014 inch
Ande Premium Monofilament 30 lb. = .022 inch
1 mm = .0393701 inch
1 meter = 1.0936133 yard
Total Capacity Factor
The total capacity equals 476 yards with line of .0216535 of an inch. To get the total capacity factor we do the following: 476 x .0216535 = 10.30
So 10.30 is the total capacity factor.
The Braids Capacity Factor
The capacity factor of the braided line is done the same way: Remember, 150 yards of 50 lb. Power pro:
150 x .014 inch = 2.1 The braid capacity factor is 2.1
So the remaining capacity (or mono needed as backing) is: The total capacity factor minus the braid capacity factor or: 10.3 – 2.1 = 8.2 This is the Remaining Capacity Factor. This is the reason we went through all this. The remaining capacity factor divided by the diameter of the mono tells us how much backing we need or: 8.2 ¸ .022 = 373 yards of the monofilament backing.
Simply load the reel with 373 yards of this mono, join the mono to the braid and wind it on. If you are interested to know your new line capacity just add the two numbers 373 yards of mono + 150 yards of braid = 523 yards of line.
Want to add capacity to a spinning reel (or any reel)? Trying to figure out how much braided line the spool will hold? This method makes short work of it. Of course we start with the manufacturers information. Most often it is printed right on the spool itself. Lets say we have a spinning reel that holds 195 yards of 20 lb test. We want to keep 20-pound test but here we want to increase the amount of line on the reel.
Remember: Line capacity multiplied by the Line diameter = Total Capacity Factor or 195 x .018 = 3.51
Then the total capacity factor divided by the “new” line diameter (the braided line) = The new capacity
Or 3.51 ¸ .009 = 390 yards of 20 pound test braided line. In this case we have doubled the reels line capacity. You may decide that you do not need that much line and opt for a little more strength. Simply take the total capacity factor (you already figured this out) and divide it by the diameter of 30 pound braid or: 3.51 ¸ .011 = 319. Perfect. You now have 319 yards of 30-pound braid vs. 195 yards of 20 lb. Mono. Look out Spindlebeak – I’m a commin’.
So with an inexpensive line counter and a calculator you can get you reel spooled to the brim without wasting any of that expensive braided line.
Fill your reel with line, fill your cooler with pop and fill your boat with fish.
The following is how it appears in Saltwater Sportsman June 2006
newel
TOPS FOR BOTTOMS: Braid with mono backing draws raves from bottom fishermen.
Photo: Joe Cermele
Many bottom-bumping anglers like to use superbraid lines to help them catch fish. Rather than spend up to $50 to spool a reel, top-shot with mono backing. Here's how to calculate the amount of mono to use. The first information you will need is the reel's line capacity.
For this example, I used the Penn 113H with 50-pound PowerPro and 30-pound Ande mono.
Penn lists the capacity of the 113H at 435 meters of .55-millimeter-diameter line. I like to convert all metric figures to English (see "Conversion Table"), so the reel holds 475 yards of 30-pound mono. You will also need to know the diameter of the lines. PowerPro's 50-pound-test line is .014 inches in diameter. Finally, Ande 30-pound monofilament is .022 inches in diameter.
To find the total capacity factor of the reel, multiply how many yards the spool can hold (476) by the diameter of the line, in inches (.022). 476 5 .022 = 10.5 yard-inches.
Use the same formula above to find the braid capacity factor. Only in this instance multiply the number of yards of 50-pound PowerPro that you want (150) by its diameter in inches (.014). 150 5 .014 = 2.1 yard-inches.
The total capacity factor (10.5) minus the braid capacity factor (2.1) gives us the remaining capacity factor: 8.4. Now, to figure out how many yards of mono backing you'll need to finish the job, divide the remaining capacity factor (8.4) by the diameter, in inches, of 30-pound Ande mono (.022-inch). 8.4/.022 = 382 yards—the amount of mono needed as backing.
— Adam Wilner
Conversion Table
1 mm = .0393701 inch
1 meter = 1.0936133 yard
1 yard = 3 feet
435 meters = 476 yards
.55 mm = .022 inch
50-pound PowerPro = .014-inch diameter
Ande Premium Monofilament 30-pound. = .022-inch diameter
Note: numbers are rounded
KDW96 reply :
On 1/18/2014 at 9:21 AM, aavery2 said:If you want to know exactly how to figure it, this is it.
The edited article appears on page 58 in the June 2006 Edition of Saltwater Sportsman 50vsw
The following is the full article before editorial shortening.
Braid and Mono Capacity –
How to figure just the right amount of Mono backing for the quantity of
the Braid you want to use – or visa-versa.
By Adam Wilner
Many bottom-bumping anglers like to use the thinner and far more sensitive super braids to find their dinner. This type of line offers greater strength, much smaller diameters and the key – Unbelievable sensitivity. The down side it is that it costs 3 times the price of mono. Most anglers I know don’t want to spend upwards of $50 to fill the reel with line. The solution is simple. Put 150 yards of braid on the top and spool the rest with good old-fashioned monofilament.
The problem occurs when we try to get just the right amount of monofilament backing to add the amount of braid we have decided upon. I have heard of many methods to accomplish this. The best one I have heard requires a second, identical spool, where you put on the braid first and then add the mono until the spool is full. At this point you would take the end of the mono that you just put on and tie it onto the second reel. Now wind it on and you are done – perfect. Except you need another spool or in the case of most bottom rigs another reel. That is a costly way to add line.
With a little info and a calculator you can get the same result for free (or at least real cheap). However, you must remember that your results will only be as accurate as the information you use. If you are looking for perfection then I recommend that you take precautions. For example, test your line counter.
The first information you will need is how much line the reel will hold. It doesn’t matter if the manufacturer tells you a capacity in a different line size than you are going to use because we are going to convert all the numbers.
In the following illustration I am going to use The Penn 113H, 50 lb Power Pro and Ande 30lb mono for the backing.
The 113H has a capacity of 475 yards of 30 lb line. We need to know the diameter of the 30 lb. line Penn used in “their” calculations. I could have called them or sent an e-mail but Penn also printed the other capacity numbers (metric) on the Penn website www.pennreels.com. It is 435 Meters at .55 millimeters (mm). Don’t be frightened, like many of you, I don’t think in meters or millimeters either. The conversion tables are easy to use or you could simply go to www.onlineconversion.com and plug in your numbers. In this case I have converted meters to yards and millimeters to inches. These are the terms I am familiar with. You will also need to know the diameter of the lines. Power Pro has the specs posted on their website at www.powerpro.com. It says there that their 50 lb. test line is .014 inches in diameter. Finally, I will use Ande 30 lb. Monofilament as the backing www.andemonofilament.com. I found that 30 lb Ande is .022 inches in diameter.
Let’s jot down some conversions.
435 meters = 476 yards (rounded)
.55 mm = .0216535 inch
50 pound Power Pro = .014 inch
Ande Premium Monofilament 30 lb. = .022 inch
1 mm = .0393701 inch
1 meter = 1.0936133 yard
Total Capacity Factor
The total capacity equals 476 yards with line of .0216535 of an inch. To get the total capacity factor we do the following: 476 x .0216535 = 10.30
So 10.30 is the total capacity factor.
The Braids Capacity Factor
The capacity factor of the braided line is done the same way: Remember, 150 yards of 50 lb. Power pro:
150 x .014 inch = 2.1 The braid capacity factor is 2.1
So the remaining capacity (or mono needed as backing) is: The total capacity factor minus the braid capacity factor or: 10.3 – 2.1 = 8.2 This is the Remaining Capacity Factor. This is the reason we went through all this. The remaining capacity factor divided by the diameter of the mono tells us how much backing we need or: 8.2 ¸ .022 = 373 yards of the monofilament backing.
Simply load the reel with 373 yards of this mono, join the mono to the braid and wind it on. If you are interested to know your new line capacity just add the two numbers 373 yards of mono + 150 yards of braid = 523 yards of line.
Want to add capacity to a spinning reel (or any reel)? Trying to figure out how much braided line the spool will hold? This method makes short work of it. Of course we start with the manufacturers information. Most often it is printed right on the spool itself. Lets say we have a spinning reel that holds 195 yards of 20 lb test. We want to keep 20-pound test but here we want to increase the amount of line on the reel.
Remember: Line capacity multiplied by the Line diameter = Total Capacity Factor or 195 x .018 = 3.51
Then the total capacity factor divided by the “new” line diameter (the braided line) = The new capacity
Or 3.51 ¸ .009 = 390 yards of 20 pound test braided line. In this case we have doubled the reels line capacity. You may decide that you do not need that much line and opt for a little more strength. Simply take the total capacity factor (you already figured this out) and divide it by the diameter of 30 pound braid or: 3.51 ¸ .011 = 319. Perfect. You now have 319 yards of 30-pound braid vs. 195 yards of 20 lb. Mono. Look out Spindlebeak – I’m a commin’.
So with an inexpensive line counter and a calculator you can get you reel spooled to the brim without wasting any of that expensive braided line.
Fill your reel with line, fill your cooler with pop and fill your boat with fish.
The following is how it appears in Saltwater Sportsman June 2006
newel
TOPS FOR BOTTOMS: Braid with mono backing draws raves from bottom fishermen.
Photo: Joe Cermele
Many bottom-bumping anglers like to use superbraid lines to help them catch fish. Rather than spend up to $50 to spool a reel, top-shot with mono backing. Here's how to calculate the amount of mono to use. The first information you will need is the reel's line capacity.
For this example, I used the Penn 113H with 50-pound PowerPro and 30-pound Ande mono.
Penn lists the capacity of the 113H at 435 meters of .55-millimeter-diameter line. I like to convert all metric figures to English (see "Conversion Table"), so the reel holds 475 yards of 30-pound mono. You will also need to know the diameter of the lines. PowerPro's 50-pound-test line is .014 inches in diameter. Finally, Ande 30-pound monofilament is .022 inches in diameter.
To find the total capacity factor of the reel, multiply how many yards the spool can hold (476) by the diameter of the line, in inches (.022). 476 5 .022 = 10.5 yard-inches.
Use the same formula above to find the braid capacity factor. Only in this instance multiply the number of yards of 50-pound PowerPro that you want (150) by its diameter in inches (.014). 150 5 .014 = 2.1 yard-inches.
The total capacity factor (10.5) minus the braid capacity factor (2.1) gives us the remaining capacity factor: 8.4. Now, to figure out how many yards of mono backing you'll need to finish the job, divide the remaining capacity factor (8.4) by the diameter, in inches, of 30-pound Ande mono (.022-inch). 8.4/.022 = 382 yards—the amount of mono needed as backing.
— Adam Wilner
Conversion Table
1 mm = .0393701 inch
1 meter = 1.0936133 yard
1 yard = 3 feet
435 meters = 476 yards
.55 mm = .022 inch
50-pound PowerPro = .014-inch diameter
Ande Premium Monofilament 30-pound. = .022-inch diameter
Note: numbers are rounded
Im not this ^ smart after 2 strokes. Anyone know of a GOOD line counter? Ive just been filling reels ,leaving about a third or less with 6pd line tightly spooled,and taped.Makes a very good base for tightly added braid.Just would like too know how many yards i put on?
Basswhippa reply :
Neat post aavery2. Here is my method. It involves trial and error at first. I only use it on high dollar line and don't sweat the yardage on cheap mono. I happen to use 50 braid a lot. I always put 75 yards of braid on the top, so I put mono on, and then I add 75 yards of braid and see if I have enough or t0o much mono. If there is not enough mono, I pull all the braid off and I add a bit of mono. If there is to much, I pull the braid back off and take some mono off and repeat the process. That sounds complicated, but once you have the right amount of mono to properly fill your braid or floro, you can either market your spool, or just not worry about it at all.
The braided line spools I use are normally 150 yards. I possibly could third it into 50 yard sections, but I prefer to half it into 75 yards. I have a place in the yard that I have marked out to 75 yards. I tie off on that spot, walk to the spot 75 yards away, tie the line to the reel and walk and reel as I go until I have all the line pulled onto the reel.
Very accurate, very simple, and if you ever get the proper line amount on your reel, and you remain constant on your line size, you can do this from now on. The only problem with my method is if you are constantly changing line size, and if so, AAvery2's math will be the only way you can quickly solve the problem without trial and error.
Revoman91 reply :
On 1/16/2014 at 7:41 AM, mc6524 said:Each reel has a retrival speed and distance for each turn of the reel handle. Based on the capacity of the reel, I also use an inexpensive mono as a backing on the reel. So for examplemy reel holds 120yards of 12lb test and ads a reel speed of 6.3:1 and a retrival distance of 24 in per turn here is how I proceed if I want 100yds of fluro on my reel:
I calculate the amount on mono I'm going to put on my reel baby the numbers of turns of my reel angle will equal 20 yes. In this case (36 in X 20 yds= the number of inces of mono I need I this case that equals 720 inches and since each turn of my reel handle equals 24 inches I will need to crank the reel handle 30 times to get 30 yds of my mono backing on my reel. After I do that I tie my fluro on using a blood knot an proceed filling my reel
This works with any pound test and you do not need to be that accurate but it will save you significantly money wise by not wasting expensive line.
Guys, let me be the first to tell you that this isnt accurate, no matter how good it sounds. Ive wasted alot of line in the past by trying to do this. On my Stradic Ci4+ this method was off roughly 25 revolutions of the handle, the IPT varies on spool depth and how much line is on the spool, as the spool fills it changes. Its best to just mark off an area and stretch the line out if possible, this also allows you to get out any line twist when you retrieve all of your line with nothing attached to the end.
WRB reply :
Depending on your arm span pull off 1 confortable span of line and measure it, average is between 5' to 6'. Divide the arm span length into 100 and that wil bet he number of arm pulls to remove 100' of line. Not exact but close enough for intended use.
Tom
FishDewd reply :
I don't normally bother with measuring out or anything, I just fill it until I know there is enough to cover whatever distance I am trying to fish at, given the bait/lure weights I'll be throwing. Usually I leave a fiar bit to be desired on the reel itself cause I feel it is less wasteful and sometimes necessary for it to be totally filled. Remember, more line = more weight, and therefore the more resistance (inertia) the spool has to turning (on baitcasters). Which can mean you lose distance with a cast because it takes more effort to cast it.
But if you want to be more frugal and precise, here is what I have done before. Tie your line onto the spool loosely with a knot that can be easily removed, make exactly one rotation of the handle, then mark the line spot where it just leaves the spool (can use the end of the line guide for a baitcaster, or the lip of the spool for a spinner). Untie the knot, remove the line from the spool, then measure out the distance to the mark. This should get you a pretty good ballpark measurement of how much line is taken in per turn. Then you just do some basic math to figure out how much line you're taking in based on your reel specifications. So if you measure say... 28 inches on a turn, and you want about 100 feet on your reel: 100 feet x 12 inches to a foot = 1200 inches. Then 1200 inches / 28 inches per turn = ~4.3 turns. Round that up to 5 to be safe.
WRB reply :
You do realize that an empty spools IPT is about 40% less than a full spool IPT.
Tom
FishDewd reply :
Which is why I said ballpark measurement... it won't work as well with high spool capacities, but I never fill my spool that full so that small difference is negligible.
Mike L reply :
You guys make my head hurt sometimes. ????
I dont get why you have to know exactly to the yard how much line to spool.
I know how deep my spool is, I know what the reel and line is going to be used for, so what is so wrong with just eyeballing it and calling it good?
If I'm spooling my punch or flipping reel I put 3/4 backing on a shallow spooled reel and calling it good.
If it's on my casting reel I put 1/4 backing and call it good.
I don't like to waste line either but I'll be respolling long before the numbers say I should anyway.
Would I have put too much or not enough on sometimes? At the beginning sure, but after a while it's dialed in and my head won't hurt doing all the math and from worrying about it.
But that's me
Mike
J Francho reply :
Four year old thread.... still getting a headache.
Line, in the grand scheme of things that can fail, is pretty inexpensive. If you get a couple spools out a a reel fill, so be it. No need to get involved with heavy, and suspect math to do it. You run out? Get another spool.
fishwizzard reply :
On 2/6/2018 at 9:42 PM, J Francho said:Four year old thread.... still getting a headache.
Line, in the grand scheme of things that can fail, is pretty inexpensive. If you get a couple spools out a a reel fill, so be it. No need to get involved with heavy, and suspect math to do it. You run out? Get another spool.
In general, yes, but for $35 per spool floro, I would want to get as many respools as I can.
My new "system" is to only buy lines that come in bulk spools whenever I can, which also solves the problem.
J Francho reply :
At $35 a spool, I don't want to cut a corner, and be into backer after a month of cutting off and retying because I was too cheap to let the math go.
Never mind the annoying knot under your thumb.
fishwizzard reply :
On 2/6/2018 at 9:56 PM, J Francho said:At $35 a spool, I don't want to cut a corner, and be into backer after a month of cutting off and retying because I was too cheap to let the math go.
My main concern was making sure I added enough backer to let me get two fills from one small spool. I use lighter line then most and some of my reels can eat up 75% of a spool unless I watch what I am doing. I do some dumb math where I measure the depth of the spool with calipers and then fill with backer until I hit 50-75% full by depth. Even if I dont know the exact legnth of my backer, I know what % of the spool I have filled and can guess pretty accuratly from there.
The other "solution" is to only buy Daiwa reels, all of mine have spools with a half-way mark on them. It makes respooling a snap.
As for the knot, I back with cheap braid and use a blunt needle to push the knot into the braid and cover it with a tiny bit of electricians' tape. I also got the bright idea to write the line specs on the tape so that when I inevitably forget what line is on what spool, I can pace it out and check.
I will admit I get a kick out of fussing over things, but I think its a good system.
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