Is that even possible with something like a buzzbait?
With today's modern reels I do not know why you would want to. I can see running low magnetic braking but why put up with the possibility of terrible backlashes, just to hypothetically gain a couple of feet. You better have a REALLY good thumb. I never buy cheap baitcasters, so the reels I do buy help me achieve long casts without running on the edge of disaster.
i rarely use the magnetic brakes unless its windy and i'm throwing crankbaits but on some of my reels with the internal centrifugal brakes i will occasionally turn on 1-2 brakes for centain applications. . i usually just set my spool tension just tight enough so the the spool doesn't overrun when i drop the lure to the floor/water..
as long as my lure is matched to the proper rod i feel brakes are not needed in most circumstances.
I've done it with a 6xd on my Curado E5. Takes too much concentration haha.
when i fished a quantum smoke I would fish it in free mode once in awhile if i was fishing somewhere and just needed a little more distance. The problem is if you are not carefull you will overrun it soo bad that you have to cut the line out.
Have I ... yes.
Did I regret it? Uh, yes.
Would I do it again? No.
Not when fishing, but have accidentally done it with new-2-me reels a couple times when practicing. Not pretty. The only reels I have done it on purpose with...and with good results...are the Diawa reels with MagForce 3D braking. My thumb will never be as good as 90% of the people on here.
On 2/16/2017 at 5:18 PM, fishnkamp said:With today's modern reels I do not know why you would want to. I can see running low magnetic braking but why put up with the possibility of terrible backlashes, just to hypothetically gain a couple of feet. You better have a REALLY good thumb. I never buy cheap baitcasters, so the reels I do buy help me achieve long casts without running on the edge of disaster.
Would you say there's really any idea weight of a lure to remove all breaks? I've heard most guys used two on and two off, but I was wondering if there's any good reason to remove all.
On 2/16/2017 at 7:27 PM, jbrew73 said:i rarely use the magnetic brakes unless its windy and i'm throwing crankbaits but on some of my reels with the internal centrifugal brakes i will occasionally turn on 1-2 brakes for centain applications. . i usually just set my spool tension just tight enough so the the spool doesn't overrun when i drop the lure to the floor/water..
as long as my lure is matched to the proper rod i feel brakes are not needed in most circumstances.
Wouldn't you have to limit your casting to slow casts?
Even a thumb with a college education, cannot compete with today's braking systems.
One reel I own, I CAN NOT backlash if I wanted to. I've tried to get an overrun with this reel, just to see if I could, and failed. For that reason, I keep my brakes set at 0, and I can just about spool myself on any cast.
First lets look at the different types of braking. Most reels have either centrifugal or magnetic and some reels use a combo of each. A Shimano uses primarily the centrifugal brakes. Diawa used primarily magnetics.
You seem to be asking about the Shimano style brakes ie two on two off. I used a lot of those reels in the past. I really dislike opening up a reel on the deck of a boat in rough water. Many believe the magnetic only reels won't cast as far. Not true! Diawa has combined an externally adjustable magnetic system that also incorporates an automatic centrifugal component, the moving drum on the spool. So now when you first start a cast the drum is further away, out of the influence of the magnets, but as the spool speeds up it moves into the magnets thus controlling the possibility of an over run, as the cast drops off the speed of the spool slows down and the drum automatically moves back and minimizes the influence of the magnets allowing for the longest cast possible. I get good long casts and have little trouble with backlashes. It works well for me.
If I'm pitching to targets less than 1/2oz bait and it's pretty calm wind wise, then yes all the time. Any real casting I personally haven't.
On 2/17/2017 at 12:42 AM, fishnkamp said:First lets look at the different types of braking. Most reels have either centrifugal or magnetic and some reels use a combo of each. A Shimano uses primarily the centrifugal brakes. Diawa used primarily magnetics.
You seem to be asking about the Shimano style brakes ie two on two off. I used a lot of those reels in the past. I really dislike opening up a reel on the deck of a boat in rough water. Many believe the magnetic only reels won't cast as far. Not true! Diawa has combined an externally adjustable magnetic system that also incorporates an automatic centrifugal component, the moving drum on the spool. So now when you first start a cast the drum is further away, out of the influence of the magnets, but as the spool speeds up it moves into the magnets thus controlling the possibility of an over run, as the cast drops off the speed of the spool slows down and the drum automatically moves back and minimizes the influence of the magnets allowing for the longest cast possible. I get good long casts and have little trouble with backlashes. It works well for me.
Yeah, I currently own a Shimano Curado 70. I haven't dared to turn all the brakes of yet... If you're familiar with the Curado's system, generally how careful must you be when operating a buzzbait with all the brakes off?
On 2/17/2017 at 1:01 AM, dam0007 said:If I'm pitching to targets less than 1/2oz bait and it's pretty calm wind wise, then yes all the time. Any real casting I personally haven't.
Is that on a Curado's system?
My set up for skipping is zero brakes, and heavy spool tension. And a trained thumb.
On 2/16/2017 at 10:31 PM, Darren. said:Have I ... yes.
Did I regret it? Uh, yes.
Would I do it again? No.
We share the same thoughts.
I made a few casts with no brakes and quickly realized it wasn't worth it to me. One moment of lack of thumb concentration and you're stuck wasting time messing with a backlash. An extra few feet of casting distance isn't worth the trade-off for me.
On 2/17/2017 at 2:21 AM, blckshirt98 said:I made a few casts with no brakes and quickly realized it wasn't worth it to me. One moment of lack of thumb concentration and you're stuck wasting time messing with a backlash. An extra few feet of casting distance isn't worth the trade-off for me.
How much distance did you get between two brakes off compared to all off?
Your looking for the holy grail kid. Maximum distance with no possibility of a backlash just doesn't exist. Human error is always the variable. Just one bad cast, one second when your focus isn't 100% and...BAM....you're cutting 100 yds of good mono off your spool and that's if you're lucky to be using mono. Just learn how to use the breaks and spool tension knob, learn how to make smooth casts, and train your thumb to hit the spool when the bait hits the water and you'll be fine. Don't go down rabbit holes, it gets you nowhere.
On 2/17/2017 at 2:23 AM, Outdoors said:How much distance did you get between two brakes off compared to all off?
Honestly I didn't measure it, I'm a shore guy so I was just eyeballing it. My skill level with no-brake casting isn't premium, so two backlashes were enough to not pursue it any longer.
The big reel manufacturers spend tons of time to build a braking system that works really well. I use them instead of wasting say $30 dollars worth of high quality braid or fluoro. As for your Curado it has its fans. I sold off all of my Curado B & E series and Chronarchs 200 E7s. I like the Diawa system better. My casting style and these reels match up great. I get my longest casting distance without issues from my Tatula Type Rs and Tatula CTs.
By the way, any recommendations from the Curado guys on number dial levels for lure weight?
I use Daiwa reels, and even when I set my breaks to 0/20, its not truely 0 like shimano reels. There will always be a bit of magnetic break no matter how low I set the dial due to the nature of the system. I have fished at 0 a few times when casting 1/8oz minnows using 8lb braid, and I honestly don't see any casting distance over 2-3 breaks.
Generally, for Daiwa Mag-Z/X brakes a setting of zero put the magnets in phase cancelling position, and they have no effect on the induction coil, and no braking effect whatsoever.
On 2/17/2017 at 3:59 AM, Outdoors said:By the way, any recommendations from the Curado guys on number dial levels for lure weight?
There is just to many variables to try to set things up the way you are inferring. The friction of the line in the guides, amount of line on the spool, etc etc, all contribute to the amount of drawing force the lure has on the spool. Just go out and cast with it a bunch, you will get the feel for things.
I recommend starting like everyone recommends and that is tightening spool tension until the lure drops slow and doesn't overrun when it hits the ground. This will be the "safe zone".
Start with 2 shoes and brake dial high, 5 or 6, I forget which is highest.
Make casts, and start backing down the spool tension and the dial. Keep casting, and keep an eye on the spool during the cast, after changing a setting. If you see the line puff up on the spool at the beginning of the cast then adjust the brakes tighter, or don't whip the rod as hard. If the line puffs up towards the end of the cast, adjust spool tension tighter.
If you are as low as you can go on the dial, then your next step is go to one shoe and max out dial and continue downward.
After a bit, you will do this on the fly, and instead of trying to set up the reel for a different bait that you just tied on, you might just release the spool and make sure spool tension is in the ballpark, and you will make a cast and make adjustments on the fly as you are fishing, after a few casts you have your settings dialed and you can feel free to swing away.
That's how I do it anyway.
My .02
packing tooth pics with you GOOD. using them for picking out backlash NO FUN!
On 2/17/2017 at 12:03 AM, Outdoors said:Would you say there's really any idea weight of a lure to remove all breaks? I've heard most guys used two on and two off, but I was wondering if there's any good reason to remove all.
Wouldn't you have to limit your casting to slow casts?
not at all. i may pick out a backlash or two on any given day but its not a problem to me.. i feel like im better off picking out a backlash here and there than over tightening my brakes and feeling like im loosing distance when needed or even worse having to work hard for every cast..
i'm no expert at all when it comes to casting.. maybe im just lucky being able to cast with little to no brakes. now if i could actually caught more fish that would be great!!!!!!
I could but I ain't!
My Calcutta has centrifugal brakes, 6 pins, every other one off or 50%.
On 2/17/2017 at 6:22 AM, jbrew73 said:not at all. i may pick out a backlash or two on any given day but its not a problem to me.. i feel like im better off picking out a backlash here and there than over tightening my brakes and feeling like im loosing distance when needed or even worse having to work hard for every cast..
i'm no expert at all when it comes to casting.. maybe im just lucky being able to cast with little to no brakes. now if i could actually caught more fish that would be great!!!!!!
What reel are you using?
all my reels are lews. i have the $100 lfs up to the $200 bb1 pro.. honestly i think the rod is more important than the reel when ot comes to casting.
the short answer is: only once.
On 2/17/2017 at 1:44 AM, Outdoors said:Yeah, I currently own a Shimano Curado 70. I haven't dared to turn all the brakes of yet... If you're familiar with the Curado's system, generally how careful must you be when operating a buzzbait with all the brakes off?
Is that on a Curado's system?
Used to be, now Tatulas/Zillions
On 2/17/2017 at 6:39 AM, Catt said:I could but I ain't!
My Calcutta has centrifugal brakes, 6 pins, every other one off or 50%.
Glad to see someone with a lot of experience sets their centrifugal brakes like I do. All this time I thought everyone else used 0 or 1 brake. I can do 2, but 3 makes it worry free. My Patriarch XT has one centrifugal brake on and 3 on the magnetic dial. Probably the least amount of brakes I use on any reel as a standard setting.
I've done this on a couple of Daiwa reels I own. Bought them in bad condition and when re building them I found the mag brake had come unglued and become stuck in full mag (common problem years back). I just used them pitching 1/16-1/10 oz finesse stuff. Worked great. But I see NO advantage at all to this. I usually set the brakes at the outtet limits to begin with but it's good insurance. That being said the newer more expensive reels I own make these brakes so easy to use with out limiting casting quality.
Magforce set on 2 with just enough spool tension.I don't feel like cutting out line for the sake of cutting out line.Its not a matter of IF your going to nest.You're going to nest.I've got a pretty good thumb and I still do it on occasion.I don't trust myself to free spool.I do like it on the edge though.
On 2/17/2017 at 9:43 AM, new2BC4bass said:
Glad to see someone with a lot of experience sets their centrifugal brakes like I do. All this time I thought everyone else used 0 or 1 brake. I can do 2, but 3 makes it worry free. My Patriarch XT has one centrifugal brake on and 3 on the magnetic dial. Probably the least amount of brakes I use on any reel as a standard setting.
That's how I do my PQ. Every other one off.Magnetic at 2.5
On 2/17/2017 at 9:43 AM, new2BC4bass said:
Glad to see someone with a lot of experience sets their centrifugal brakes like I do. All this time I thought everyone else used 0 or 1 brake. I can do 2, but 3 makes it worry free. My Patriarch XT has one centrifugal brake on and 3 on the magnetic dial. Probably the least amount of brakes I use on any reel as a standard setting.
No reason not to!
You don't loose distance, you don't work harder, all ya loose is backlashes.
I do it all the time with some reels. Most of them are at zero or maybe one. A few get one or two at the most. On the rare occasion maybe three with a super light weight bait on a super windy day.
On 2/17/2017 at 10:58 PM, RB 77 said:I do it all the time with some reels. Most of them are at zero or maybe one. A few get one or two at the most. On the rare occasion maybe three with a super light weight bait on a super windy day.
How do you avoid backlashes? Just don't swing hard?
i tried for 20 minutes, 30 seconds of that was casting.
On 2/17/2017 at 11:19 PM, Outdoors said:How do you avoid backlashes? Just don't swing hard?
To clarify, I rarely "swing for the fences" when bass fishing. Some presentations call for it when covering massive amounts of ground or "bombing" a cast to breaking fish. Most casts are more precise in nature once the electronics have done a bit of the ground work. Backlashes happen to the best of us. That's just the nature of a bait caster. A sudden gust of wind will humble anyone. A few of my reels are a PITA to adjust the brakes at all (Calcutta D) so they stay permanently off. I usually always start with the breaks off and add as needed. Most, if not all my rod and reel combos are very technique specific at this point so they stay designated for one technique and one technique only. For example, my C-rig setup is a Falcon Lowrider Lizard Dragger with a Curado 200 E7 with 12lb Yo-zuri Hybrid. Because of the nature of using heavier weights (1/2-3/4 oz mostly) and the way the rod loads the bait I do not need any brakes or one at the most. Heavier baits IE: Lipless cranks, C-rigs, big jigs, etc. usually get the hall pass...
On 2/17/2017 at 11:46 PM, RB 77 said:
To clarify, I rarely "swing for the fences" when bass fishing. Some presentations call for it when covering massive amounts of ground or "bombing" a cast to breaking fish. Most casts are more precise in nature once the electronics have done a bit of the ground work. Backlashes happen to the best of us. That's just the nature of a bait caster. A sudden gust of wind will humble anyone. A few of my reels are a PITA to adjust the brakes at all (Calcutta D) so they stay permanently off. I usually always start with the breaks off and add as needed. Most, if not all my rod and reel combos are very technique specific at this point so they stay designated for one technique and one technique only. For example, my C-rig setup is a Falcon Lowrider Lizard Dragger with a Curado 200 E7 with 12lb Yo-zuri Hybrid. Because of the nature of using heavier weights (1/2-3/4 oz mostly) and the way the rod loads the bait I do not need any brakes or one at the most. Heavier baits IE: Lipless cranks, C-rigs, big jigs, etc. usually get the hall pass...
Do you think you could get the same distance with half brakes on, and half brakes off if you bombed it? Obviously that would eventually grow tiring, though.
On 2/18/2017 at 12:33 AM, Outdoors said:Do you think you could get the same distance with half brakes on, and half brakes off if you bombed it? Obviously that would eventually grow tiring, though.
Honestly, no I don't. With that being said maximum distance is rarely, if ever more important than an accurate or well timed cast. An angler also has to take into consideration that proper adjustment of the cast control knob in conjunction with properly set breaks (centrifugal and/ or magnetic, sometimes also in conjunction) according to what they are trying to accomplish, what bait they have on, rod rating, etc. Some really light weight baits, extra fast action, etc will definitely get a pin or two on the centrifugal system from me. Pitchin' and Flippin', heavy baits, etc will get less or none.
My #1 setup is a Calcutta 100A it's on a 6' 10" medium heavy extra fast.
I have every other pin on & cast, flip, or pitch every thing from a weightless trick worm to 3/4 t-rig by simply adjusting the cast control knob.
Adjusting your rerl is completely personal preference!
like catt said, the settings for "your" reel is totally up to you.. nothing wrong with asking for recommendations but at the end of the day just try a few different settings and see what works best for you.. i wouldn't get too hung up on how others set up there reels..
Just got myself a rod for the reel; a Shimano Clarus. The recommended max line on the rod is 17 lb, but is it safe to use 20 lb braid? 20 and 30 seems to be what most of the baitcasting guys are using.
On 2/17/2017 at 9:43 AM, new2BC4bass said:
Glad to see someone with a lot of experience sets their centrifugal brakes like I do. All this time I thought everyone else used 0 or 1 brake. I can do 2, but 3 makes it worry free. My Patriarch XT has one centrifugal brake on and 3 on the magnetic dial. Probably the least amount of brakes I use on any reel as a standard setting.
Just having one brake doesn't off balance the reel?
On 3/1/2017 at 9:20 AM, Outdoors said:Just having one brake doesn't off balance the reel?
No.
EDIT: I have an older blue Patriarch XT. I run it with one centrifugal brake on and 3 magnetic brakes on.
On 2/16/2017 at 2:27 PM, Outdoors said:Is that even possible with something like a buzzbait?
I have a Tourney Special from a year and a half ago (still works fairly well, although I can't wait to upgrade) and I fish it with all brakes off, even when changing from light to heavy lures.
Yes twice, 1st time was like well that sucked, years later I'm better now....I should be able to handle it. Uh no, brought back down to earth again....will never ever do it again. Why do we need to anyway? I can still cast far enough with all breaks on to catch a fish.
Short roll cast ... yea somtimes. Just need a lil more pressure with the thumb
On 3/1/2017 at 10:34 AM, RMax said:I have a Tourney Special from a year and a half ago (still works fairly well, although I can't wait to upgrade) and I fish it with all brakes off, even when changing from light to heavy lures.
I have a Curado 70, and I was wondering if there should be any difference in cast distance with all brakes off, and on a high number, compared to half brakes off, and on low number.
In your reel case, is there a noticeable difference?