Braid can be a pain in the rear...I have been experimenting
with a number of applications for the last 9 months or so.
Here's my take:
1. No leader unless you fish gin clear water, mussels or
what seem to be sharp edge structure (rocks and
ledges).
2. The impact on jig fishing is dramatic.
3. The "feel" when fishing soft plastics is improved,
but not nearly as much as with jigs.
4. I hate braid in the wind...PERIOD!
I have braid (PP 50/12) on three rigs:
1. Jig rig, no leader.
2. Weighted soft plastics, fluorocarbon leader.
( For weightless presentations, spinning
tackle and #6 Hybrid)
3. Small swimbaits (Mattlures Baby Bass),
no leader.
8-)
Kent, I had tons of problems when I first used braid, then realized nothing is perfect and just dealt with short comings.
I use braid on everything ( I only use spinning) and always use leader regardless of water color and my simple rule of thumb is to double the braid, 10#=20# leader. I learned to cast using braid, my technique is to slightly pinch the line as the lure hits the water, can not remember the last windknot I had in freshwater. I use 10 and 15#, even in heavy slop.
Saltwater I use 15 or 20#, get a few more windknots but nothing I consider discouraging.
What I like is the strength and sensitivity, using cut or live bait for fish like kings, you don't always feel the bite with mono, but you do with braid. I don't have to do bone jarring hooksets and many fast swimming fish set themselves with braid. I could never go back to mono.
Still boils down to personal preference.
QuoteBraid can be a pain in the rear...I have been experimentingwith a number of applications for the last 9 months or so.
Here's my take:
1. No leader unless you fish gin clear water, mussels or
what seem to be sharp edge structure (rocks and
ledges).
2. The impact on jig fishing is dramatic.
3. The "feel" when fishing soft plastics is improved,
but not nearly as much as with jigs.
4. I hate braid in the wind...PERIOD!
I have braid (PP 50/12) on three rigs:
1. Jig rig, no leader.
2. Weighted soft plastics, fluorocarbon leader.
( For weightless presentations, spinning
tackle and #6 Hybrid)
3. Small swimbaits (Mattlures Baby Bass),
no leader.
8-)
Same here. I just need to slow down when I'm fishing bottom contact baits. Lately I've been fishing them too fast.
I'm using P-Line Spectrex 50/10. I like it, but next time I'll 65/16 PP.
So when you guys tie jigs directly to braid what do you do when you get hung up? I feel like it is too hard to break and I don't want to cut because I lose so much line.
I tried it but I ended up throwing it out. All my rods are built on Shikari SHX blanks which are sensitive. So with the exposed blank real seat & the Yo-Zuri line I'm good. In clear water I will use Seaguar AbrazX. Braid has no stretch & I do like some for a little more protection for my rod. I have seen rods explode on a hook set that had braid on the reel. Good luck with it, I know many people like it.
scbassin, if a rod explodes on a hookset when using a superline, it's the stupidity of the person using it and they haven't adjusted their technique for it.
It's no difference if a person is a superline user and then switches to a mono and keeps loosing fish due to the lack of hook penetration caused by an improper hook set with the mono.
I've been using superlines since the days of Kelvar and original Spiderwire and have never had any rods explode or break when using it. All it takes is the simple awareness of their equipment and using it accordingly.
QuoteSo when you guys tie jigs directly to braid what do you do when you get hung up? I feel like it is too hard to break and I don't want to cut because I lose so much line.
Point the rod tip at the bait, reel down, hold the spool, pull straight back (or walk backwards if you are on the bank). It should break at the knot. Many times that will dislodge the lure as well but be careful, sometimes it will come flying back at you.
The only time I use braid really is with buzzbaits (frogs) mostly,and flippin. With no leader..I use it on a caster with no problems. I dont fish rocks though.
Dan, that is a good way to bend the reel spool axle. THE best way to get un-hung or break off is to wrap the line around a net handle, boat cleat, or some other solid object and then pull. Do not wrap the line around your hand to do it--it will cut your hand. I carry a short piece of 1" wooden dowel for that purpose.
I always open my bail, to avoid breaking a tip, which I've done, then I wrap the line around ,my shoulder and walk, lure comes loose or line breaks. The bow snapping method works exceptionally well with braided line, doesn't work as well with mono due to the stretch.
QuoteDan, that is a good way to bend the reel spool axle. THE best way to get un-hung or break off is to wrap the line around a net handle, boat cleat, or some other solid object and then pull. Do not wrap the line around your hand to do it--it will cut your hand. I carry a short piece of 1" wooden dowel for that purpose.
x2 Hands down the best way.
Quotescbassin, if a rod explodes on a hookset when using a superline, it's the stupidity of the person using it and they haven't adjusted their technique for it.It's no difference if a person is a superline user and then switches to a mono and keeps loosing fish due to the lack of hook penetration caused by an improper hook set with the mono.
I've been using superlines since the days of Kelvar and original Spiderwire and have never had any rods explode or break when using it. All it takes is the simple awareness of their equipment and using it accordingly.
I believe the PP packaging even tells you to back off the drag a little. It should play out a tiny bit on the hookset. Some people have this bad habit of hammering down their drags to the max when it's just simply not needed.
QuoteI always open my bail, to avoid breaking a tip, which I've done, then I wrap the line around ,my shoulder and walk, lure comes loose or line breaks. The bow snapping method works exceptionally well with braided line, doesn't work as well with mono due to the stretch.
See, I've had the opposite experience. It always seems to me that the stretchiness of the mono allows for more of a bungie effect that shakes the bait free with the bow and arrow method. Although I've also found that braid on a moderate rod will work better than braid on a fast rod with that technique.
I agree with Mr. Snook, the superlines work very well with the bow method. The stretchy mono absords the shock needed to dislodge a hang up easily.
Quoterule of thumb is to double the braid, 10#=20# leader.
a shock leader? what is the reason for the larger leader for bass fishing? chucking big swimbaits/plugs?
i guess you wouldnt use it for most braided lines, a 100# leader on 50#PP is going to be huge!
roadwarrior - why do you use such heavy braided line (as many others do, including pros) on your setups? im just curious, i just started playing around with 20#PP, and it seems about 30# would be strong enough for heavy cover.
-z
QuoteQuoteSo when you guys tie jigs directly to braid what do you do when you get hung up? I feel like it is too hard to break and I don't want to cut because I lose so much line.Point the rod tip at the bait, reel down, hold the spool, pull straight back (or walk backwards if you are on the bank). It should break at the knot. Many times that will dislodge the lure as well but be careful, sometimes it will come flying back at you.
I also keep a work glove in my bag to put on and wrap the braid around the glove and just pull on it line til the jig either pulls free or the line breaks at the knot.
Rods "exploding" on the hookset?
Were these rods made by Al Queda? ;D :
Breaking, perhaps, but not "exploding".
I've heard that one since, well forever.
Dramatic sounding, but to someone like me that's used superlines since they came out, when someone trots that one out it makes them sound ignorant.
QuoteDan, that is a good way to bend the reel spool axle. THE best way to get un-hung or break off is to wrap the line around a net handle, boat cleat, or some other solid object and then pull. Do not wrap the line around your hand to do it--it will cut your hand. I carry a short piece of 1" wooden dowel for that purpose.
You got that right about potentially damaging the reel. x3. I guess great minds think alike. I will always free snagged hooks and lures by removing the rod and reel out of the lure/hook removal equation. Not worth the damage or heartbreak.
QuoteSo when you guys tie jigs directly to braid what do you do when you get hung up? I feel like it is too hard to break and I don't want to cut because I lose so much line.
I wrap my hand in a rag, and wind the braid around my hand a couple of times...and steadly pull. Make sure there's enough line at the end of the rod, as not to break the rod...trust me on the one.. :-[
W/o a rag, you can cut your hand pretty easy..and unless your hooked to a good sized tree, you'll get the lure back..Just stay away from rocks.. ;D
Oh, my braid..55lb Diawa Samuri.. 8-)
Wayne, I guess I should have said that I backed off on the drag when using braid but my point to RW was I like Yo-Zuri better, it's my choice. I drop every bass I catch back in after I get the hook out so it's no big deal if one comes unbuttoned during the fight.
Randy, Osama must have wrapped the rod counter clockwise instead of clockwise. My buddy was in the back of my boat when it happened you should have heard it. The rod broke in 3 pieces & the look on his face was priceless. He had his drag as tight as he could get it & gave it the old cross his eyes hook set, you had to be there. I did replace his rod. For your info I have been fishing for over 60 years & have not yet forgotten everything that I have learned.
As RW knows, I use braid on all my rods, both spinning and bait casting. Unless I'm fishing in slop, I use a six-foot flouro leader at all times. If I have to break off I use a piece of PVC pipe to wrap my line around.
QuoteSo when you guys tie jigs directly to braid what do you do when you get hung up? I feel like it is too hard to break and I don't want to cut because I lose so much line.
you bring a foot long 1 inch thick round wood dowel and wrap the line around it and pull .you will lose less line and lures than you ever thought possible.
QuoteQuoterule of thumb is to double the braid, 10#=20# leader.a shock leader? what is the reason for the larger leader for bass fishing? chucking big swimbaits/plugs?
i guess you wouldnt use it for most braided lines, a 100# leader on 50#PP is going to be huge!
roadwarrior - why do you use such heavy braided line (as many others do, including pros) on your setups? im just curious, i just started playing around with 20#PP, and it seems about 30# would be strong enough for heavy cover.
-z
the thicker the line on a baitcaster the less it will dig in.also if you use the same diameter as you would with mono your lures will ride the same depths in the water column.
kent,i have to give you one bit of advice.
Thanks!
I WILL BUY Fireline Braid next time on your
recommendation...Promise!
65/16?
8-)
hope you like it.it comes in 65/14.the 8 strand starts at 30 lb test if i am correct.
QuoteQuoteI always open my bail, to avoid breaking a tip, which I've done, then I wrap the line around ,my shoulder and walk, lure comes loose or line breaks. The bow snapping method works exceptionally well with braided line, doesn't work as well with mono due to the stretch.See, I've had the opposite experience. It always seems to me that the stretchiness of the mono allows for more of a bungie effect that shakes the bait free with the bow and arrow method. Although I've also found that braid on a moderate rod will work better than braid on a fast rod with that technique.
I argued with Muddy on this issue, he was right and I was wrong, I started the bow method little better than a year ago and it's been very effective, nothing is perfect.
Yeh I double the leader but I use a max of 15# braid for freshwater, even in the heaviest slop and lily pads down here, I just can't understand using 65# braid for small fish, fishing a tourney and getting them into the boat faster, I'll buy that, but for recreational fishing I'll go with the challenge of trying to pull them out on lighter set ups.
My maximum braid is 30# gorilla braid which is my shark outfit, I use 60# leader. I'm not all that fussy on the brand, cept PP can be bought anywhere so I buy it out of convenience.
when burning a 7/8 oz clackin rap or 1/2 oz spinnerbait above a weedbed that comes very close to the surface the larger (14 lb) DIAMETER of 65 lb braid compared to the 6lb DIAMETER of 15 lb braid will help keep the lure up above the weeds and not get snagged.also the 65 will not dig on a baitcaster where the 15 will.
QuoteI agree with Mr. Snook, the superlines work very well with the bow method. The stretchy mono absords the shock needed to dislodge a hang up easily.
hmmm very interesting. I've always found that the stretch allows you to send more of a "shockwave" back at the lure which gives it an immediate change from taught to loose that allows the hooks to come free.
QuoteQuoteI agree with Mr. Snook, the superlines work very well with the bow method. The stretchy mono absords the shock needed to dislodge a hang up easily.hmmm very interesting. I've always found that the stretch allows you to send more of a "shockwave" back at the lure which gives it an immediate change from taught to loose that allows the hooks to come free.
What I thought too, I have tried the bow method on other peoples snags who had mono on and it didn't work too well. Best course of action, try everything.
Quotewhen burning a 7/8 oz clackin rap or 1/2 oz spinnerbait above a weedbed that comes very close to the surface the larger (14 lb) DIAMETER of 65 lb braid compared to the 6lb DIAMETER of 15 lb braid will help keep the lure up above the weeds and not get snagged.also the 65 will not dig on a baitcaster where the 15 will.
Pretty common scenario here in Florida, yet I seem to have no problem. You could pull the Titanic up with 65# braid.
I think there just needs to be sort of "snapping" of the line that sends a pulse down to the bait in order to make it taught and then immediately loose. I've had a lot of success using the bow and arrow with braid on an ultralight that was very moderate but not very good success on fast or XF rods. They seem to work better with fluoro/mono. Maybe at least one part of the equation has to have some give?
Who knows. I know what has worked for me but I also know that you two old guys have probably been using braid since before I could even spell it...
I usually use braid and a 3 to 6 foot flour leader (my braid is 20lb test and the leader is 12lb). I use this probably 90% of the time. I only tie straight to braid when the water is pretty muddy.
When I used to use 65lb. braid and get stuck on timber, I could pull the limbs off trees by pulling straight back on it I would always tell people with me then "That's why I use braid!" :
I've got braid on all of my setup except my cranking rod. Fluoro leader on all of them. I'll go straight braid if I'm fishing at night for an extended period of time, in dirty water, or very heavy cover. Sure, the wind can make it a little aggravating at times, but it's nothing that I can't deal with.
Quotea shock leader? what is the reason for the larger leader for bass fishing? chucking big swimbaits/plugs?i guess you wouldnt use it for most braided lines, a 100# leader on 50#PP is going to be huge!
I went to the heavier leader a number of years ago because I have better chance of not breaking the leader on a snag and losing my lure. Also some of my target species have gill plates as sharp as a razor blade, wise to use a heavier leader.
I would definitely use a 100# leader on 50# braid, if I were fishing for big grouper or another hefty pelagic species, tied with a bimini knot
Everyone should just do what they are comfortable with
QuoteQuotea shock leader? what is the reason for the larger leader for bass fishing? chucking big swimbaits/plugs?i guess you wouldnt use it for most braided lines, a 100# leader on 50#PP is going to be huge!
I went to the heavier leader a number of years ago because I have better chance of not breaking the leader on a snag and losing my lure. Also some of my target species have gill plates as sharp as a razor blade, wise to use a heavier leader.
I would definitely use a 100# leader on 50# braid, if I were fishing for big grouper or another hefty pelagic species, tied with a bimini knot
Everyone should just do what they are comfortable with
Wow Sirsnook, your in good company with your reasons. I have only heard of two other anglers who use lighter main line than leader.One is named wahoodaddy(dont know his real name, he is like Catt on this website),and Tony Pena(yes the knot).
Wahoodaddy say's he does it cause the pressure when fighting big fish is more at the hook then anywhere else?
Almost every saltwater angler I know uses a larger leader than mainline. Thats an extremely common thing, at least down here in south Florida and in the Bahamas.
QuoteAlmost every saltwater angler I know uses a larger leader than mainline. Thats an extremely common thing, at least down here in south Florida and in the Bahamas.
Same for a lot of striper fisherman up here.
That's pretty interesting cause i follow the local saltwater stuff here on the west coast and it is rare that we do it that way.
Only fished the west coast once, 35 years ago on drift boat out of Santa Monica, so I haven't a clue on how people do things out there.
Much of what I do in saltwater came out of what I thought to be common sense. The better saltwater angler I become the better my freshwater goes. 60 years of fishing has proved 1 thing to me.......fish are fish wherever they may be.
As this thread is regarding braid another thing I do for saltwater spooling is too never tie always tape. Never know what's hitting the other end of the line, hooking a tarpon 100+ or other large fish happens and you are just not going to bring it in with light tackle. I'd rather lose all my line and lure than do any damage to my reel. I didn't make this up, advice from a guide.
I learned that lesson a while back when chumming for Kings. I'll never tie a good knot around the arbor of the reel. I'll either tape it or just do a simple overhand knot that's going to come out with very little pressure. We got hit by something large, could have been a Mako for or a huge King, and it just left. Spooled the reel and when it got down to the arbor, it ripped the reel right out of the seat and went sliding up the rod blank tearing off every guide.
How did this turn into a saltwater thread?
I tie an Arbor knot to the spool with Hybrid,
then use Alberto's Knot to join the backing
to braid. I like at least 60 yards of braid so
I have plenty of casting line and enough
cushion to never feel the knot.
8-)