Still on the fence between mono and fluoro for crankbaiting. Some say fluoro because it sinks better and is more sensitive. Some say mono because fluoro is TOO sensitive and they tend to try to set the hook before the fish has the lure. Obviously for deeper water I want fluoro.
What does everyone use?
10# mono has never done me wrong. Cranks are one technique where line is not a big concern, IMHO. Match it to your cover. Lots of weeds and timber, up it to 15 or 17. Deep open water I like 10.
Want to try something brand spanking new from Seaguar?
http://www.seaguar.com/about-seaguar/press-releases/114-seaguar-introduces-rippin-premium-monofilament-fishing-line.html
I'm leaning towards mono at this point. Berkley Big Game.
So here's my rod setup:
Flipping: Straight 40# Braid
Jig/Worm: 40# Braid and Fluoro leader
Jig/Worm: 12# Fluoro
Crankbait: 12# Mono
Spinning Multi-Purpose: 12# Mono
Spinning Drop-Shot/Shaky Head: 8# Fluoro
On 2/24/2017 at 3:52 AM, roadwarrior said:Want to try something brand spanking new from Seaguar?
http://www.seaguar.com/about-seaguar/press-releases/114-seaguar-introduces-rippin-premium-monofilament-fishing-line.html
Hmm....I'm pretty stocked on Big Game, but maybe next time.
I prefer flouro more for the increased abrasion resistance as well as the sinking properties to get it down just a fuzz deeper. Its just a preference for me, i used mono for years with no problems. On either check your line periodicly for nicks, especilly if throwing around rocks or structure.
I fish crankbaits alot. It or a senko are my go to lures first usually. Ive never had an instance where i missed a fish due to the line being too sensitive on cranks. Having it on too stiff a rod, yes, but thats not the lines fault.
I use fluoro probably 90% of the time for crank baits.
As far as being too sensitive and pulling the bait from a fish too early? That's non-sense in my opinion. You're talking about a moving bait that's probably moving 24-30" every crank and you're bringing it in on a steady retrieve. That fish either has that crankbait in his mouth or he doesn't. We're not talking about a plastic craw where the fish might only pick it up by the pinchers, or a fluke where the fish might only grab it by the tail. You're overcomplicating things.
I put mono on already. Mono is pretty cheap. If it doesn't work out or I find that I don't like it then I'll switch to fluoro.
Along these lines, when you guys use braid do you back it with mono? I was thinking of putting maybe 75 yards of it on in order to save the braid. Guess I could do the same with fluorocarbon. Back around ten years ago people were saying to always use a backing because the braid would scratch the spool.
I have 10lb seaguar invizx on my medium cranking set up, and 12lb on my medium heavy cranking set up. Switched to the flouro for the added strength. I can usually pull snags right out with the 10lb. I like the seaguar red label too for cranking, slightly better abrasion resistance than the invizx.
The braid will not scratch the spool, not that it matters. The braid will slip on the spool without some backing.
I use Yo Zuri for all moving reaction baits...Flouro is not THAT much of an advantage and I don't use mono for anything...Can't stand the stuff.
Mike
I never use backing personally. Mostly because i hate feeling a knot hit my thumb in the spool.
As far as braid sliiping on the spool its bot an issue for me now. I prefer spools that are drilled and actually use an arbor knot through one of the holes. No more slipping like on a solid spool.
On 2/24/2017 at 3:54 AM, Zeeter said:I'm leaning towards mono at this point. Berkley Big Game.
So here's my rod setup:
Flipping: Straight 40# Braid
Jig/Worm: 40# Braid and Fluoro leader
Jig/Worm: 12# Fluoro
Crankbait: 12# Mono
Spinning Multi-Purpose: 12# Mono
Spinning Drop-Shot/Shaky Head: 8# Fluoro
Hmm....I'm pretty stocked on Big Game, but maybe next time.
Yeah, I love me some Big Game. Just check it often and retie after a big fish or when one chokes the bait and it should never do you wrong. I use this and braid. I hate fluoro.
On 2/24/2017 at 5:16 AM, Zeeter said:Along these lines, when you guys use braid do you back it with mono? I was thinking of putting maybe 75 yards of it on in order to save the braid. Guess I could do the same with fluorocarbon. Back around ten years ago people were saying to always use a backing because the braid would scratch the spool.
Yes. Do that. Not because it will scratch the spool, it won't. But because it's way cheaper. Use a double uni knot and you won't feel the knot on the spool. Just don't use so much backing that you cast all the braid off. I did that once.
I've been very pleased with Seaguar Invizx for all my cranking since I started using it 2 years ago. Very, very manageable fluoro and has a little stretch, but still very sensitive.
On 2/24/2017 at 10:46 AM, the reel ess said:Just don't use so much backing that you cast all the braid off. I did that once.
I think I did that on my flipping rod earlier. Didn't seem like I put much braid on after the mono. Well, it's for flipping and pitching so hopefully it won't be too big a deal.
On 2/24/2017 at 3:52 AM, roadwarrior said:Want to try something brand spanking new from Seaguar?
http://www.seaguar.com/about-seaguar/press-releases/114-seaguar-introduces-rippin-premium-monofilament-fishing-line.html
Rippin has been really good so far. In mono I really like it, but I use 10# invisx on my cranking setup.
On 2/24/2017 at 12:07 PM, Zeeter said:
I think I did that on my flipping rod earlier. Didn't seem like I put much braid on after the mono. Well, it's for flipping and pitching so hopefully it won't be too big a deal.
If you're only going to be flipping and pitching with it you can pull off a little more than your longest pitch and put tape around the spool. That will make getting backlashes out a lot easier. That's a trick one of my coworkers used to use. He pitched about half the time in tourneys.
On 2/24/2017 at 9:06 PM, the reel ess said:If you're only going to be flipping and pitching with it you can pull off a little more than your longest pitch and put tape around the spool. That will make getting backlashes out a lot easier. That's a trick one of my coworkers used to use. He pitched about half the time in tourneys.
I think I have at least 75 yards of braid on it. Should be fine for flipping and pitching.
2 of my three CB setups I'll use braid (30#) with a Hybrid lines (Pline or Yozuri) 10-12# leader. The main squarebill CB rod I use straight Yozuri 12#.
I just use straight Yozuri hybrid 12 lb for cranking. I always back my braid with mono to avoid slip on the spool and also to save some $.
Yo-Zuri Hybrid 10 lb for most cranks. 12 lb for lipless.
12# Big Game has worked well for me.
I like 10 or 12# Tatsu.
I found that a good knot makes WAY more difference in cranks and such Lures with similar mechanics for action. A uni knot, rapala, or arbor knot I believe are 3 knots that are strong and leave a small loop at the end. Between the knot and the eyelet of the lure. It seems to facilitate better action.
I've always been a mono guy with cranks either 10 or 12 pound stren original or big game.
I use 10 and 12# Sniper FC
I love me some Big Game, but not on cranks, I use 12lb Invisx for anything from a KVD 1.0 to a 10XD.
10-lb Yo Zuri Hybrid is the best cranking line I've used. I spent all of last season and about $50 in fluorocarbon to realize that there are minimal advantages to using it for cranks. I'll be going back to Hybrid this season.
I'm on the boat with everyone fishing yo zuri. I used to fish straight fc for cranks and switched last year and couldn't be happier. I don't use any backing on my reel either with it it. Held up plenty well in my rocky lake here. 600 yd spool is like 12 bucks at tw.
I'm testing out fluoro for the first time this season on two rods... My crankbait setup and my jig/texas rig rod... After a couple of outings, I'm struggling with it. Not the easiest to cast with and while the sensitivity is better, it feels cheap almost. Not going to strip it off just yet, but I don't know if fluoro is for me. May have to go back to braid with fluoro leader.
I use KVD line & lure, but am still getting a few backlashes and can't get the distance I want because i have the breaks turned up. Using Lew's Tournament MBs.
Have any of you guys tried braid for trolling cranks? Seems like the extra feel would be beneficial.
On 3/2/2017 at 11:31 PM, IndianaFinesse said:Have any of you guys tried braid for trolling cranks? Seems like the extra feel would be beneficial.
I don't like it, you hang a crank, and you might not realize it, if it's in a rod holder. The trout and salmon guys up here are big on it, though. There's plenty that like throwing cranks on braid. I think it affects the deflection negatively, but that's debatable. I don't buy into this whole, "set the bait too fast, or rip out hooks" argument. I'll bet most fish poorly hooked on the outside were hooked when the fish was spitting the bait, and the angler never detected the bit.
On 3/2/2017 at 11:31 PM, IndianaFinesse said:Have any of you guys tried braid for trolling cranks? Seems like the extra feel would be beneficial.
I don't troll crankbaits for bass, so I can't comment of the use of braid in that sense.
However, braid can be really handy when tossing crankbaits around grass, particularly lipless crankbaits. You can easily feel the bait begin to hang up and then give it a solid rip, freeing it from grass and triggering strikes. This works best on a heavier fast-action rod. I use my swimjig rod with this technique. Heavy-power, 7' 3", 30lb straight braid.
On 3/2/2017 at 11:39 PM, J Francho said:
I don't like it, you hang a crank, and you might not realize it, if it's in a rod holder. The trout and salmon guys up here are big on it, though. There's plenty that like throwing cranks on braid. I think it affects the deflection negatively, but that's debatable. I don't buy into this whole, "set the bait too fast, or rip out hooks" argument. I'll bet most fish poorly hooked on the outside were hooked when the fish was spitting the bait, and the angler never detected the bit.
Thanks for the reply. I wasn't planning on trolling with a several rods in holders, just one rod in my hand. I haven't spent much time trolling cranks for bass, but I plan to this year. The one time I did try it, I was disappointed with how little feel I had. I couldn't even feel if the crank hit a branch or ticked the bottom, which is a big thing if you're trying to follow a contour line with the lure bumping bottom. So I am considering trying braid to see if it helped the sensitivity.
Too much ado about nothing here: buy a 600yard spool of YOZURI in 8,10,12lb and change lines every season and be done with it.
Ive found no downsides to this approach.
On 3/3/2017 at 12:40 PM, Silas said:Too much ado about nothing here: buy a 600yard spool of YOZURI in 8,10,12lb and change lines every season and be done with it.
Ive found no downsides to this approach.
This!!! I am getting away from flouro due to moving away from the gin clear water in WA. There is a time and place for flouro and i have been there. To many people boy into the hype!!!!
On 2/24/2017 at 5:16 AM, Zeeter said:Along these lines, when you guys use braid do you back it with mono?
Though nylon and fluorocarbon are compressible, braid is virtually incompressible.
For this reason, a spool of pure braid is liable to rotate on the spool arbor.
This is easily avoided by simply wrapping electrical tape around the arbor,
I detest the connection knot between the backing & topping,
so I'll often fill the entire spool with braid (good for years)
Roger
On 3/3/2017 at 1:02 PM, RoLo said:
Though nylon and fluorocarbon are compressible, braid is virtually incompressible.
For this reason, a spool of pure braid is liable to rotate on the spool arbor.
This is easily avoided by simply wrapping electrical tape around the arbor,
I detest the connection knot between backing & topping, so I fill the entire spool with braid (good for years)
Roger
On the Chronarch I was spooling they have a line insert that goes directly out the other end of the spool. No trying to line it up and find the hole on the other end. Looks like it was made for the very purpose of tying the line on.
On 3/3/2017 at 10:42 AM, IndianaFinesse said:Thanks for the reply. I wasn't planning on trolling with a several rods in holders, just one rod in my hand. I haven't spent much time trolling cranks for bass, but I plan to this year. The one time I did try it, I was disappointed with how little feel I had. I couldn't even feel if the crank hit a branch or ticked the bottom, which is a big thing if you're trying to follow a contour line with the lure bumping bottom. So I am considering trying braid to see if it helped the sensitivity.
I see guys trolling with way too much line out. Anything more then a long cast, and you get a bow in the line. That bow in the line is why you lose feel.
And there isn't a better feeling than having a fish strike a trolled bait, almost ripping the rod from your hands.
On 3/3/2017 at 9:13 PM, Zeeter said:
On the Chronarch I was spooling they have a line insert that goes directly out the other end of the spool. No trying to line it up and find the hole on the other end.
Looks like it was made for the very purpose of tying the line on.
That's for sure.
You can also forego built-in line holes by throwing a spool noose around the arbor (stop knot & overhand loop).
then back-up the braid with any heavy diameter mono you've got laying around.
On 3/3/2017 at 1:02 PM, RoLo said:
Though nylon and fluorocarbon are compressible, braid is virtually incompressible.
For this reason, a spool of pure braid is liable to rotate on the spool arbor.
This is easily avoided by simply wrapping electrical tape around the arbor,
I detest the connection knot between the backing & topping,
so I'll often fill the entire spool with braid (good for years)
Roger
Wrap a small piece of electrical tape over the knot between the backing and topping. You'll never feel it again; it's like it's not even there.
This is an ice fishing technique. Sometimes we only put 30-40' of topping on a reel since we're fishing in 10-20' of water.