Strange Breakoff 2024

hooah212002 reply :

As I am getting used to my new BC, I loosened up the brakes to see how far I could chuck my buzzbait because I felt comfortable doing so. I got it out there a good ways...a REAL good distance. I don't think I got too bad of a birds nest, but as I was reeling in after letting some of the nest out, I felt no resistance AT ALL and my lure was gone, along with about half the line that went out with it (I could tell this because almost immediately the end of the line was already all through the guides and on my reel). Like I said, I felt NO resistance and my line is brand new; this is only the second time I have fished this reel. It was dark, so I have zero clue what the heck happened. I checked the end where the break off was, which was now wrapped around my reel, and it was kinked a bit. However, being new line and given as far as I chucked it, this bit of line most likely had never seen any action.

The optimist in me says it was a northern that cut my line. However, I'm a realist and would like some differing, more logical opinions. It was a freakin SK Bleeding Bait black buzzbait....so it wasn't cheap.

roadwarrior reply :

A kink in new line is no different than a kink in old line.

I suspect the backlash is the culprit.

Bass Slayer 72 reply :

Yeah, hate to say it but probably operator error.... Sucks you lost good bait... been there, done that, too stupid not to repeat.....=

1234567 reply :

I made a long cast one time and when I started reeling in my line I also discovered the line was broke. No backlash, no fish hit my bait, just a broke line. Upon further inspection, I noticed there was a crack in one of my eyelets on the guide that was cutting the line and after enough casts and retrieve it would break completely. After this I never let my poles drop and am always double checking my eyelets.

islandbass reply :

When you make a really good cast like that, chances are the amount of force/energy you put into the cast made the line snap. It is not uncommon and speaking from personal experience, when you are caught admiring what a beautiful cast you've made that is really far it's going, well, you now know the rest of the story. Been there, done that. As a newbie to bc reels, it won't hurt to occasionally check you line for kinks and weak points periodically especially after birds nests. Learning to carefully undo nests also helps. There is a video out there that shows a great way to unravel a birdsnest that is pretty effective. A quick search on here might find it.

SuskyDude reply :

^What he said. That REAL good cast was your lure breaking off and flying into the next zip code. The backlash was a result of no longer having the lure pull line from the reel.

hooah212002 reply :

Thanks for the replies guys. I suspected the backlash to be the culprit, but it just didn't seem to be bad enough. On a more positive note, this morning wasn't a bust like last night. Though, the two dinks I caught ultimately cost about $30 in tackle lol. Smallies were nailing my rattle traps, but so were the boulders on the river bed. I probably would have caught a whole lot more if I had a decent supply of cranks. Lost both of those, my SK KVD square bill and my bleeding bait spinner bait. However, every lure I lost hooked into a fish (a couple unhooked themselves before i landed em).

This is great. I'm fishing better than I ever have.

ClackerBuzz reply :

A previous back lash can cause line damage. I've picked out a bad backlash which compromised my line. A week later i lost a lure just like you did and realized the damage probably came from the prior 'overrun'. it took me awhile casting baitcaster to learn "don't make the cast if i'm not 100% sure i can make it successfully". that meant not trying to bomb extra far to a sweet spot, casting at nite before i was ready, into the wind, near a tree, substituting the wrong rod b/c i stop at a pond unprepared and really want to cast a specific lure. i lost a lot of lures before learning to resist the temptation. (substituting the wrong rod was last week ).

hooah212002 reply :

Lesson learned. Thanks again for the insight. At least it wasn't a $30 swimbait, right?

hooah212002 reply :

A question then: does braid get compromised like mono or fluoro does with backlashes? Intuition tells me no since it is softer, but intuition is worthless when evidence is available.

Fishwhittler reply :

On 8/27/2012 at 2:54 AM, hooah212002 said:

A question then: does braid get compromised like mono or fluoro does with backlashes? Intuition tells me no since it is softer, but intuition is worthless when evidence is available.

No. Braid doesn't kink, so backlashes with braid don't damage the line.

However, braid has no stretch and isn't as shock-resistent as mono, and a bad backlash in the middle of a hard cast can cause braid to snap. This is especially true with heavy baits or if the braid is frayed. Just the other night I made a hard cast with a swimbait, my reel loaded with braid backlashed, and SNAP! Goodbye swimbait. But, that doesn't happen much unless you're using larger baits (for me that's anything 1oz and up), and even then you shouldn't have problems unless you try to cast into the middle of next week.

BTW I did get the swimbait back the next day; it was a floater, and I found it floating where I figured it would wind up.

hooah212002 reply :

Thanks fishwhittler. I probably am casting pretty hard because this new reel casts like a dream and I'm still pretty stoked at how far i can chuck it. I'll calm down, so to speak, once I get better control amd am able to ease off on the brakes and tension and get it just as far.

West Coast Bass reply :

all i have to say is that i feel your pain. here was my experience a few months ago with my brand new crucial and swimbait reel.

bad cast + bad clinch knot = lost 6" huddleston

i was heart broken as i watched my brand new huddy fly powerlessly through the air. all i could do was watch LOL. take the time to double, triple check your ties and tags.

MarkH024 reply :

One other note on this topic, if you have your baitcaster set up properly, you don't need to send your bait into orbit to get a good distance cast. If everything is working as intended a nice steady swing cast from the side of your body will get your lure out to where you need it. Often I fish with friends that don't fish nearly as much as I do, and they try to send 3/4 oz spinnerbaits or alike lures a mile across the lake. Just about every trip they lose a lure from snapping their lines from casting like a moron. If you get a birds nest with braid....pull it all out......and then pull out another 10 yds and reel it back up with your fingers supplying some tension so it's nice a smooth going back in. That will help prevent the digging in some too.

Not saying you aren't set up properly, just something to remember as a lot of people don't think about it.

hooah212002 reply :

On 8/27/2012 at 11:39 PM, MarkH024 said:
pull it all out......and then pull out another 10 yds and reel it back up with your fingers supplying some tension so it's nice a smooth going back in.

I pretty much do that. I pull out enough to where what is left on the spool is tight and "clean".

If that sentence had any more innuendo, I'd probably get banned.

Greenstealth reply :

You think thats bad? I cast the majority of my musky stuff with an 8ft medium heavy rod and a large round reel. Recently ive been using a 7ft xh with a low profile reel for jerkbaits. The rod feel is totally different and affects casting a LOT. I backlashed 80lb braid so bad that it brok my leader and sent my $20 jerk sailing. It took a little bit for me to get accustomed but it was a painful lesson indeed.

cody161 reply :

And if you want to cast even further with less effort you could always take the reel apart, clean the bearings, and then lightly oil them instead of having grease/thick oil in them.

hooah212002 reply :

On 8/28/2012 at 12:57 AM, cody161 said:

And if you want to cast even further with less effort you could always take the reel apart, clean the bearings, and then lightly oil them instead of having grease/thick oil in them.

I bought it used from a member here and he did that before he sent it to me.

retiredbosn reply :

What kind of line was it. With floro or hybrid treat a kink as a cut. Floro has a crystal type structure and any kink ruins that section of line. Found out the hard way too.

hooah212002 reply :

On 8/29/2012 at 12:58 AM, retiredbosn said:

What kind of line was it.

Spiderwire EZ-Mono. It has been surprisingly good to me otherwise. I picked up some KVD L&L last night and gave it a few tosses and boy howdy is that stuff MORE than worth the cost.

MarkH024 reply :

Try out some braid or fluoro if you haven't yet. Just use some mono backing and a spool of either will carry you for quite some time. I think you will like one of those lines better judging from some of the other posts I've read of yours. Just my 2cents brotha. You'll eliminate some of those break offs in the river too.

hooah212002 reply :

On 8/29/2012 at 2:43 AM, MarkH024 said:

Try out some braid or fluoro if you haven't yet. Just use some mono backing and a spool of either will carry you for quite some time. I think you will like one of those lines better judging from some of the other posts I've read of yours. Just my 2cents brotha. You'll eliminate some of those break offs in the river too.

Oh, indeed. I plan on it when funds become more readily available. I'm tossed between Power Pro and Yo-Zuri, though. Leaning heavily towards Yo-Zuri since I suck at knots and don't want to have to tie a leader on frequently.

MarkH024 reply :

On 8/29/2012 at 2:45 AM, hooah212002 said:

Oh, indeed. I plan on it when funds become more readily available. I'm tossed between Power Pro and Yo-Zuri, though. Leaning heavily towards Yo-Zuri since I suck at knots and don't want to have to tie a leader on frequently.

No where does it say you need a leader to fish braid. I fish straight braid on 95% of my applications and catch fish, topwater included. I fish fluoro with my crankbaits. All you need to know is how to tie a palomar knot for braid, San Diego Jam for fluoro. The only time I'd really break down and worry about leader is fishing a c-rig or drop shot, and I hardly ever fish either technique. I have no experience with Yo Zuri so I can't speak for it. Braid I like Sufix 832 or the Performance Braid.

You will get 1000 opinions regarding what I just said, so take it for what it's worth. Just helping a brother out.

hooah212002 reply :

Well, the lake I mention in my profile is one I go to frequently and have the best luck so far, is VERY clear. Visibility is ~10-15 ft. Common wisdom and the consensus here (that I have gathered) is that people typically have much better luck with either straight fluoro or a fluoro leader in clear water.

mikey5string reply :

I have lost a few good lures getting a little overzealous and whipping a cast as fas as I could without adjusting the reel setting. I will watch an overspool happen mid-cast, lock up the spool, stop the cast short mid-air and snap the line sending my new $10 crankbait flying into the lake 50 yards away all in a second or two, leaving me standing there with a limp line blowing in the wind.

Also had the ceramic coating crack off the first guide exposing the sharp metal frame. Lost 2 good fish setting the hook and havingt the line cut like that. I scratched my head and retied only to have it happen AGAIN before I realized what had happened.

Another aggravating "user error" that resulted in lost fish was using hooks without a welded eye. The knot slips down into the notch where the eyelet "closes" against the hook shank. Set the hook with that going on and its like a little guillotine. Nothing like reeling back up to see your neat little clinch knot at the end of the line with nothing else. I use welded eye hooks now.

I have lost fish/lures by getting exited and sloppily tying knots, not adding the "improved" part of the improved clinch knot because I couldn't get that last piece through that d**n loop. Or wondering "did I tie that right?" when tying a different knot but throwing it anyway....

No worse feeling that losing a big fish because of something you could have prevented.

WRB reply :

Before you start to pull out line after a backlash, first put light thumb pressure on the loose spool line and reel line back on the reel. Next make an easy lob cast short of the back lash, then keeping thumb pressure on the spool carefully pull out the loops without putting much pressure on the line while dropping the loose line in the water. Reel the loose line back on the reel while running the line between your index finger nd thumb to feel for any flat spots or damaged line. If you can feel a flt spot, the line needs to be changed.

A good line dressing like TangleFree or KVD helps tp reduce backlashes and so will a good casting rod that isn't too fast action.

Another over looked problem is hook damage to the line when the lure is stored on the rod. The hook points and barbs are very sharp nd can cut the line when in the rod locker or on the boat deck due to vibration. Ron your line between your finger in the re where the hook cn contact the line occasionally.

Tom

hooah212002 reply :

Yep, i just watched a video that describes undoing an overrun just how you describe. I also bought some KVD last night and it helped. For the most part, I don't store my rods with lures that have treble hooks, I tend to retie a frog or texas rig before I put it in my car. Mainly because they get transported in my small car and I don't want to hook my wifes leg or tear up my seats.

WRB reply :

Any sharpe hook, single , double or treble can contact the line if the lure is attached to the rod hook hangar or rod guides. If you keep the lure tied on and use the hook to attached it to the reel, rod handle, rod blank or guide, the line next to the lure can contact the hook. One trick that helps is to pull the line between the rod tip nd the attached lure like a bow string about 4" away from the rod about 1/2 way between the rod tip and lure, then spin the rod a few tunes to wrap the line around the rod nd guides to hold the line tight and keep it away from the hook point. Using a lure wrap also helps to prevent line damage from hooks.

It's a common problem over looked by lots of anglers.

Tom

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