Minor tip when structure fishing 2024

Catt reply :

One of my buddies who retired to Toledo Bend called last night and we were talking about some of the deep structure I put him on. He was saying after Matt Fly and I had talked to him a couple months ago he had fished one of my big bass spots but couldn't get them to bite. Well after 15 to 20 minutes of him explaining how he approached this underwater point I realized his problem. I had explained to him that when you're approaching this point he was to drop anchor in 15' of water and cast towards the river channel. Simple enough right! Wrong because here's what I didn't consider, he has a Skeeter 22I which is 21' 8 long so when his depth finder on the transom read 15' he would walk up front and drop anchor. He then picked up his rod and started fishing not realizing the bow of his boat where he was standing is in 8' of water and his cast would barely reach the edge of the drop off.

Solution:

When using the rear depth finder to mark 15' fish off the rear deck

When using the bow depth finder to mark 15' fish off the bow deck

cart7t reply :

I usually just toss a marker buoy over my shoulder when I'm on the dash graph.

5bass reply :

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I usually just toss a marker buoy over my shoulder when I'm on the dash graph.

Works everytime!

Catt reply :

Yea a buoy will mark the spot but what do you do next?

Jig Man reply :

I have found that it is very hard to give someone enough specific instructions for them to be able to adequately fish submerged stuff. That is what makes it so hard to catch the other guys fish.

We don't all see the same things or thing the same way when we are approaching a spot. For example, I would direct you to something close to the water level as a beginning while one of my fishing buds would have you looking for something way up the hill without saying it wasn't close to the bank.

There is also specific ways to position the boat for maximum effectiveness in some spots and that is rarely covered good enough in an instruction.

Matt Fly reply :

Things seem to work a little better once we realized that we werent' throwing where we thought we were supposed to.

Made a big difference in finding the fish on the drop off. I won't ever forget that spot. That number was my HS football number.

Matt

Catt reply :

Many people fish deep offshore structure by trying to stay in position with their trolling motor which I think is a waste of time; anchoring is way more productive. When anchoring a boat on deep offshore structure you must account for the length of you boat and which transducer you're reading.

Matt we will fish this place again and hopefully in the near future

CJ reply :

I use a bouy marker too.As long as that marker stays put,which I add extra weight to mine,you shouldn't have any trouble as long as you know how to fish that spot.High winds and rough water can make it more complicated but with experience you learn.

I fish a deep hump that if you don't fish it just right you'll miss the fish.I also fish other spots that are much more forgiving.I also fish ledges where I need to move paralell to the drop because it has more than one sweet spot.Fish may relate to structure differently at different times.One day they're on top of a ledge,holding to cover,come back later and catch them down on the side.When I am out checking ledges I will usually start out in the deep throwing toward the shallower ledge making sure I present my lure all the way down deep.Then if I feel I need to move closer or even up on top,I will do so.

5bass reply :

I agree with CJ. Boat positioning depends on what lure you use, where the fish are, wind etc....I like working jigs uphill on points and downhill with cranks. Both require being somewhere different on the structure. Ledges and humps are not all that much different, they are either on top or they're on the sides. I fish them with the current if there is one, from the downside of the structure.

Brian_Reeves reply :

Quote
Yea a buoy will mark the spot but what do you do next?

Ummm.....fish???

Needemp reply :

The anchor would waste a lot of my time. What if the area is not holding fish? What if you catch a couple and need to start working the area at different angles? What if you are locating fish on a depth finder and drop-shotting for them? What if you're fishing a tournament? Or just trying to fish as many productive spots as possible? That anchor sure would waste a lot of time for some fisherman. But if you just like to relax and fish, then I can see the benefits.

5bass reply :

I agree with that Needemp. An anchor is cumbersome to use and takes up valuable time when you're runnin' and gunnin'. I'd be more apt to use an anchor if the wind was real bad and I had a good read on where the fish were sittin'.

Catt reply :

Over the past 35 years I've participated in 70+ tournaments with 27 wins all but 13 were won will anchored on deep water structure. It is easier to pick apart structure anchored than constantly fighting a trolling motor. You can anchor deep while casting shallow or anchor shallow while casting deep; you can also work 360 degrees around the boat without worrying about drifting off the structure.

What if the area is not holding fish? Then I aint gonna be fishing to start with

I can also work just as many productive spots but simply pulling up anchor and moving; it aint that hard.

CJ reply :

Quote
Over the past 35 years I've participated in 70+ tournaments with 27 wins all but 13 were won will anchored on deep water structure.
What if the area is not holding fish? Then I aint gonna be fishing to start with

Catt reply :

Quote

Quote
Over the past 35 years I've participated in 70+ tournaments with 27 wins all but 13 were won will anchored on deep water structure.
What if the area is not holding fish? Then I aint gonna be fishing that spot to start with

:

Ok fingers faster than the brain again

5bass reply :

Quote

Quote

Quote
Over the past 35 years I've participated in 70+ tournaments with 27 wins all but 13 were won will anchored on deep water structure.
What if the area is not holding fish? Then I aint gonna be fishing that spot to start with

:

Ok fingers faster than the brain again

Was he referring to the first part of your reply or the second?

And when you say you can work 360 deg around the boat without drifting off the structure with the anchor.....are you just hovering over it in your boat and plopping your anchor right in the middle of it? Seems like that would spook the fish in more ways than one. Anchoring away from and just within casting distance of the target makes the most sense to me. I guess there's more than one way to skin a cat.

Catt reply :

I guessed he was referring to my original post which stated What if the area is not holding fish? Then I aint gonna be fishing to start with

After carefully evaluating the structure with my depth finder I will determine where the best place to anchor is located based on its relationship to where the bass will be holding. Contrary to popular beliefs dropping anchor has no effect on the bass at all; the reason I love to target deep water bass is they are not affected by much. By anchoring or using a trolling motor to stay away from the structure you're limiting your casting angles where as anchoring on the actual structure affords you a 360 degree radius at which you can attack.

RoLo reply :

Quote
It is easier to pick apart structure anchored than constantly fighting a trolling motor. You can anchor deep
while casting shallow or anchor shallow while casting deep; you can also work 360 degrees around the boat

Catt makes a good point.

Fishing over shipwrecks in the ocean is where you learn the art of anchoring, otherwise you're flat out of the game.

In saltwater, both the wind and tide affect the speed & direction of the drift. A strong wind and weak tide usually means a wind drift

but a moderate wind during a strong tide usually means a tide drift (it's generally some weird angle twixt the two).

I can't tell you how many times I've seen boats anchor-up to chum, and watch their chum-slick drift "away" from the hotspot

To nail a hotspot, I generally use the technique below.

1. Obtain "Accurate Coordinates" of the bottom-break (That's where it all begins)

Wait for net lag to relax (signal thrust), and don't push "Save" until the ledge of the drop-off is displayed on the sonar screen.

2. Each time you return, get on the numbers and look for the bottom break to appear on the depth sounder (e.g. 4 to 10-ft drop-off)

now place a marker buoy smack on top of the transducer signal (be that the bow, stern or anywhere in between).

3. Place the transmission in neutral, and pour a cup of coffer (beer works too)

As the boat drifts naturally away from the buoy, it will establish an "Accurate Drift-Line" w/o guesswork (wind & tide combined)

4. When you've drifted about 50 ft from the buoy, run a perfectly straight path directly over the buoy (to one side of the prop)

and continue past the buoy a distance equal to about 4 water depths. The drift-line will determine whether you'll be anchoring

in the channel or on the shelf (usually a big difference in anchor scope).

5. Drop anchor, then motor slowly but directly toward the buoy while feeding loose anchor rode.

Be sure the anchor gets a good foothold, so you don't drag anchor later on.

6. "Kill the engine" a few yards from the bouy, then pay anchor rode until the the boat drifts right alongside the bouy,

now tie it off on a cleat. If all went well, you'll be able to retreive the buoy before you begin to fish.

Granted, fishing for freshwater bass has made me pretty lazy, but that's the way to anchor over a hotspot, even in whitecaps.

Roger

Needemp reply :

I guess for me it is just a little different. For one thing, it is not real hard just using the trolling motor. I don't see it being a hindrance but a pleasurable challenge. But the second thing I would state is that the only way to find fish on good structure is to fish it. You can't suggest that you only fish structure that has fish on it. You don't know whether the fish are using it or not. Sometimes they are there and sometimes not.

CJ reply :

Rolo,nice to see you come around and another educational post,I wouldn't expect less.

Really a thought that keeps dawning on me is that I have fished different fisheries in different regions.WTS,I have noticed that angler's techniques,no matter what it is,vary.On Toledo bend anchoring may be the preferred technique of a majority of the angler's.It may have something to do with more compressed "sweet spots"?On Ky.Lake bouys are what a majority use if there isn't a simple vortex for the submerged structure.

Just because one's way is right,doesn't make another's wrong!

Catt reply :

Thank you RoLo I couldn't have explained it any better but I was in the process of trying.

What y'all don't know is I actually started my fishing career as a deck hand of one of my uncle's charter boats in the Gulf of Mexico. Fishing offshore is second nature to me, while my technique is not as complicated as what is used in the Gulf it's very similar. Before I drop anchor consideration must be given to wind direction and current, on the Toledo Bend the current is a given since it only occurs during generation at the dam. So this only leaves me with the wind to deal with and I compensate for this by short anchoring or using a heavy anchor and a short rope.

And yes Needemp I'm only fishing structure that holds fish, after 35 yrs. I can tell you what structure holds no fish, what structure holds schools of small fish, and what structure holds schools of big fish.

By definition Prime Structure is the most active, thriving, satisfying, and choicest piece of structure. It has all the key elements to sustain a population a fish so therefore it will always hold fish because it is their home. The fish will move vertical or horizontally on prime structure but they will not leave it.

Take for instance this piece of prime structure I'm referring to in this topic, it is an underwater point that protrudes out off a huge main lake flat, the top of the point is 8' deep dropping of into the Sabine River with depths down to 45-50', the flat is covered Hydrilla and the sides of the point has timber.

The structure y'all are referring to is not prime structure and visited by fish moving from one area to another say for spawning or feeding but don't mistake this for Prime Structure.

CJ reply :

CATT,you sure do alot of assuming!How do you know what kind of structure I fish.It's not prime because I don't anchor on it?BS!I may not have been fishing for 35 years but I'm still no idiot.You don't have to define prime structure and I've never seen any that has big fish on it 24-7.Results from structure vary year to year,hour to hour.You should quit thinking the people on this form fall short of your glory!

Catt reply :

Where do you come to that conclusion?

Just because you've never seen structure that holds big fish 24-7 you assume it doesn't exist?

So you think catching big bass a coincidence?

CJ reply :

I didn't say it does't exsist,but I find it hard to believe.

I guess every tournament you fish you simply run to that spot?

Where do you draw the conclusion that a certain structure holds big fish 24-7,365 days?

Maybe Toledo Bend is different,but on Ky.Lake schools of big fish will and do migrate.I have drawn this conclusion from "on-water experience".Sure there are structure that is known for dinks and structure that is known to hold toads.There is structure that renders big bass for consecutive years,but they all play out at sometime.If mother nature doesn't cause it,then man will.

Catt reply :

Well believe it or not it does exist

When I fish a tournament I do head straight to structure that I know holds larger fish but that doesn't mean they'll bite. I still have to contend with weather, water conditions, wind and every thing else involved in getting the bass to bite; I've just eliminated the need to look for where to find the bass.

I draw the conclusion that certain structure holds big bass year round by catching big bass on that structure year round.

Not all bass migrate or when they do they don't migrate far; just like not all bass suspend at the same time, not all bass school up and chase shad, and so forth.

I can't think of one piece of prime structure in 35 years on Toledo Bend that no longer holds bass.

Matt Fly reply :

CJ,

I don't disagree with you or Catt. But I would make a bet as to the fact, that if you watched me on my deep structure on Fork during the summer, I can produce a fish over 6.5 pounds on almost every trip.

Its not coclky, its results that are repeated. I say summer, because summer provides stable weather and stable weather means consistent patterns.

ONE area Catt talks about is in the boat lane marked with boat lane bouy. I fished this during a Big Bass Splash and the STREN series going on the at the same time for 3 days straight. I had boats flying by all day, and I was on fish for three days. Won some nice money in June, and thats due to Catt for sharing a sweet spot with me, which my novice girl friend caught fish for three days also.

IF I am lookng for quality fish, I will always try the quite approach, I will use the wind if possible to drift in, instead of trolling motor. I always turn the grapshs of. Stealth is the number one advantage for Quality. Didn't matter with boats zipping by every 5 minutes. Funny thing about this area was, i could see 100 boats all day.

Read the Posted signs on the water and know mother nature. What???????

KNow how and what directions the creek, river runs. Know how trees on the ledges or edges grow towards the sun. Know that the biggest tress will always be closest to the channels while its under water.

CAn you find a creek under water in the middle of the lake by just looking at the trees on top even though they have been dead for 20 years?

Learn the what types of treee in your region grow on hump or hills, know that sand on the hills is different than creek bottom sand, all of these small tidbits can help you find areas with out using maps and electronic.

You find desirable areas by sight, and scope them out with electronics and fishing them.

Knowing the way a tree leans into a creek gives you the picture of how to toss or pitch at targets. knowing the bend in the river, the fallen tree into the river channel, and grass on top on the ridge, also knowing some one drug their anchor through the grass cut a gut in the middle of it and fish are relating to it all make for easy fishing in my book.

Would I tie up or anchor all day on every lake? no

Do most tournament fishermen anchor out? not many, but I will if thats the best way to stay on fish.

Do all lakes have the same structure? NO

Lakes like Toledo Bend, Fork, Amistad, and others will hold fish in the same areas year around as long as their needs are met, and only be in migration mode when the urge to reproduce commences.

Why does a guide make money? He sure don't fish new water every day or every year. He goes back to the same spots over and over, that don't mean he don't have 1000 spots, but he has to be able to consistently catch fish.

I have seen guides take clients to the same spots and start on the same spots day after day. Why? cause fish relate to that area for reason, every year.

What Catt and others have done is settle in on the sweet spot within a good area.

Learn the signs, Raul has posted numerous tips on learning the dry ground that surrounds your lake, note the types of timver if any, where does that type of tree grow, near creek bottoms, top of hills or elevated ground. What type of tree grows next to the channels that are now under water.

For those that want to be successful and eliminate some luck, learn how to fish with out electronics first, learn to decipher what mother nature is showing you.

Sorry to be long winded, you could write a book on identifing types signs to help learn reading the water before ever making a cast.

One thing to remember, Catt and I are blessed to have a state and lakes in our area that handle as much pressure as any lakes across the US, and are loaded with quality fish. To catch quality consistently, you must have great fisheries, and we do have some of the best pleasure lakes, and tournament waters in the US. Typical stringers are 20+ lbs, and thats year around.

These kind of sweet spots are due to being blessed with better than average lakes.

Wish me luck, I'm fishing for a piece of the$ 400,000.oo for 3 days this weekend. And I haven't fished the sweet spots for 3 weeks, and I won't move for 3 days straight. I have faith that I wll catch some 8's, but its the magic 24 inches that makes them turn into money.

Hookem

Matt.

RoLo reply :

Thank you CJ,

I see you've shortened your handle which is okay, as long as you're still wack'n em

This has gotten to be an interesting thread.

As Matt said, you could write a book on this stuff, so I'll be as brief as possible.

I must confess, even on a brand new lake that I've never seen in my life, I will only fish a couple dozen hotspots

that I selected at home. Though I might spend two weeks on that lake, I will generally ignore about 85% of the water.

1. The first step is always the same, acquire the best contour map that money can buy (GPS software or hardcopy).

If a satisfactory contour map is unavailable, I will flatly refuse to vacation on that lake,

because life is too short to be wasted on blind fishing. A guide is another alternative,

but I have never hired a guide because it wouldn't make sense for me to pay another man

to do what I love the most..."locating fish" (anyone can winch a fish to the boat).

2. The "Chart Survey" is the second step. At home and in my leisure time, I'll scrutinize the entire lake

chart until I know it as well as the furniture in my own home. Each "trial site" is given an appropriate

waypoint name, something that sets it apart. A trial site is essentially an outstanding compression point (contour line convergence) adjacent to a sizable flat. In the process, every major flat

(spawning grounds) is also named.

3. The third step I refer to as the "Field Survey" is done onsite. Generally the entire first day

of my vacation is spent confirming the "Chart Survey" conducted at home. Mainly, I'm looking

to confirm the presence of vegetation, and to identify the plant species and status of the bed.

Sadly, this step will eliminate some of the most promising "trial sites" that were selected at home.

With regard to largemouth bass & pike, any trial site that lacks vegetation will be patently rejected

for lack of cover. This would not apply however to smallmouth bass and walleyes, which do not relate directly to weeds.

4. When a trial site contains satisfactory cover, it becomes a named "holding site" (i.e. waypoint).

I don't have to catch a fish to know it's a holding site. If it's the best bottom-break in the area

and there's cover on the crest, it IS a holding site. Step number 4 is to obtain accurate coordinates

for the holding site, which is often renamed at this point, based on new information gleaned onsite.

5. With my chores complete, it's now time to fish. The route of waypoints will be run like a schoolboy's paper route. My wife generally boats the first fish, because I'm usually still engrossed in jotting down

details about the lake. But that's the way I like it, because I enjoy the technical garbage,

but my wife (the smart one), enjoys catching fish.

Does it work? And how...I'll only cite the most recent example.

Last year (my last vacation), I choose a lake that I've never heard of before for northern pike (Pakashkan Lake, Ontario). I mail-ordered two different contour maps, and poured over the maps

for about 3 or 4 months (sometimes I'll spend a full year). The goal was a pike over 40"

and it was achieved on the 2nd day of our trip, actually my first fishing day.

I might add, it was the only 40"+ pike taken at the lodge. During our 6-day stay,

I never once stopped the boat to fish a spot that I didn't select at home

(Florida, nearly 2,000 miles to the south).

Roger

Matt Fly reply :

Good post Rolo,

I wish I could articulate my words as well as you do. Always clean and to the point.

Catt,

You know after post spawn, you don't catch me fishing anything above 12 ft, and hardly anything that close to a shoreline. I love the deep offshore unpressured waters. My fish only see a tenth of the fishermen as opposed to the shallow fish that are high pressured every day.

Matt

kmbgolf reply :

Excellent post Rolo,

I live on Cape Cod mass.Is there places were I can get detailed contour maps my google searches bring up nothing.I have s learned so much the little time I have been here so a thank you is in order.

Matt Fly reply :

kmbgolf,

Welcome to the forum.

What body of water are you looking for?

Matt

CJ reply :

Thank you,Matt-Fly!I agree with your post 100% and believe every bit of it.I don't doubt your or CATT's ability.Though I may dispute statments I read.Maybe it's how I read them?Maybe it's how they're wrote?

On Ky.Lake current is the #1 factor as to how a fish relates to the structure,it also helps to determine their active status.This year we had the worst drought on record.Water generation was little.In the early 90's F&W killed off all of the vegetation on Ky.Lake.In the past 3 years it has made a great comeback!Ledges that were once loaded became empty.I'm not saying all of em'.Where I used to target rockpiles stumpbeds,and man-made brushpiles.I now target submerged vegetation.

BTW,best of luck to you,Matt.I hope you get em'!

Rolo,just glad to see any thread interest you enough to squeeze some of that knowledge!Great add!I've had better years results wise,but learning new techniques.

Chris

roadwarrior reply :

WOW!

Me brains hurtin'.

I'll have to read this again later...and again later.

I stuck this in "My Favorites" for future reference.

I suggest others do the same.

8-)

Sam reply :

This is good information regarding positioning your boat.

This weekend on the Chowan my front depth read 12 feet and the rear depth was 5 feet so we decided we were going over a drop off. Are we smart or what?

Thanks for the input.

kmbgolf reply :

Coonamessett,Mashpee Wakeby,Johns POND,Ashumet,LOVELLS-MY LITTLE GEM.......thanks

Catt reply :

Doug Hannon's thoughts on Big Bass Structure

Big bass live such a simple live that it goes straight over most anglers' heads. They are located on prime structures that contain specific elements that include a good sized feeding flat. That flat would ideally be heavily weeded, with a number of weed types and open pockets 4 to 8 feet deep. Other kinds of cover like trees, stumps, brush or rocks are also beneficial. Deep water down to 17 feet or more as near as possible and better yet, if there were a source of inflowing water, like a creek. Finally, we need the nearby presence of firm spawning bottom sand, gravel, clay, and perhaps rock. This area should be located where it remains calm; in essence, the spot should be protected from north winds.

Sounds exactly like the area I'm discussing

11567

Minor tip when structure fishing 2024

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