Fish photography..... 2024

Fish Chris reply :

wasn't sure where to post this.... as the "everything else" section says non-fishing related, but anyway.....

A buddy of mine took notice of some of my recent fish photos, and asked how I was taking them.

Good question. Now I don't know how many of you have cameras with the features that mine does. Mine is "only" a point and shoot (not a DSLR) and it's 3 years old, so it's somewhat of a dinosuar..... but it was (IMPO) about the best point and shoot available, 3 years ago. It cost $450 back then.

So here's my secrets;

I'm setting the camera to "full manual". Then, I'm purposely adjusting my exposure down to just below what would be required with the natural sunlight available. {on my camera this is usally about 1/1600th, at F5, ISO 200..... but this will vary from camera to camera}

Next, I use my fill-flash. This is also adjustable on my camera, and so I usually use anywhere from -3, to 0.

Finally, my camera has a setting called "chrome", which is actually just a color saturation booster, but I think it looks more natural, than boosting the color later, in Photoshop.

If your camera is capable of some of this stuff, you might want to play around with it...... and remember, you don't have to wait until you stick a big fish to figure this stuff out. You can hold anything for test shots :-)

When you get it dialed in, make a short "cheat sheet" of the settings, and keep it with your camera. Then, when you stick a pig, and your head is spinning with adrenalin, you won't have to think very much :-)

Peace,

Fish

PS, And one important thing with photo shop; Of course we have to size our photos way down for posting on the internet, right ? Well, have you ever noticed how sizing them way down, tends to make them lose there sharpness ? Okay, here's what you do.... Size them down part of the way. With my large file size photos, this is about an 80% decrease, but you will have to experiement to see how far to downsize...... Then use the "sharpen", or better yet, the "sharpen edges" feature, in Photoshop. Then go on and size down the rest of the way. If you size them all the way down first, then sharpen, they will often become "over-sharpened" and rough on the eyes. This will really help to keep your photos as sharp on the internet, as the full size printed files would be :-)

fourbizz reply :

Thanks for taking the time Fish! I'm gonna start screwing with the camera when i get a chance. My pictures are always a crap shoot. Sometimes I get a jewel, sometimes a pile of turds.

Any word in the replica department?

Jay

WhiteMike1018 reply :

Are you sure your not making the gut bigger on those fish?

After all, i could make a 5lb bass in photoshop turn out to be a monster...actually i think they do this in Bassmaster a lot. If anyone has the lastest issue of BassMaster, look at the bass Shaw Grisby is holding in the article about "Redefined Drop Shotting" looks totally fake.

As far as Fish Chris photocropping his Bass i was only kidding lol..thanks for sharing

Fish Chris reply :

Hey Jay, I hear ya.... but we both know that if your ever going to take bad shots, its probably going to happen on that super giant fish, that has you completely whacked out.... which is, of course, the one that matters most ! That's why its best to play around and get your photography, {or most often in my case, my 'self-photography'} dialed in before the fact.

Nothing on the replicas.... but haven't dug too much yet. On vacation... too much playing... no time for business :-)

Hey Mike, nah.... I promise :-) The only "really fat" fish I have caught this year was that 8.5 lb Smallmouth, and it was actually a bit fatter yet, when the kid caught her 10 days earlier. Then, with that 14.40 I caught, it was long enough, and deep enough (from back to belly) that even in real life it looked 16 1/2 to 17 lbs...... but I knew from the empty belly, and narrowness of the back it, that it wouldn't weigh that much. I'm sure I could have said so..... But no BS here :-)

Peace,

Fish

.ghoti. reply :

Hey Chris, Thanks for the tips. I need the help in this department. I just can't ever seem to get a good fish pic. I'll be experimenting with your concepts. I've never tried the fill flash in daylight. Sounds good. Don't know if either of my cameras have a saturation feature, but I'll be digging into the manuals before the next trip.

Thank you for taking the time.

Cheers,

Hawgin reply :

Quote
Then, with that 14.40 I caught, it was long enough, and deep enough (from back to belly) that even in real life it looked 16 1/2 to 17 lbs...... but I knew from the empty belly, and narrowness of the back it, that it wouldn't weigh that much. I'm sure I could have said so..... But no BS here :-)
Peace,

Fish

Yeah, I'm pretty sure if I caught a 14+ I probably wouldn't BS about it either.

GatorBK reply :

Thanks for the tips . I just put some pics in the members challenge I took that turned out kind of chitty. I have a hard time getting good pics with my cam in bright light . I will have to tinker with it and see what happens

Low_Budget_Hooker reply :

Awesome info Fish!!

BK, "auto" settings are terrible for "on-water" photography. They can't read the changing light bouncing off the water, etc.

As FC said, switch to "manual" and then lower your settings so your light meter reads JUST BELOW where it would be for a normal picture (off water)

Best info here is to play with this stuff now, not at the critical time when the fish is in the boat

Every camera is different but the tips above apply to all cameras. I'm not sure if I have "flash fill" but thats a new one to me, can't wait to experiment now.

Thanks again FC.

guest reply :

I don't understand what all the fuss is about.

My pictures always come out perfect 8-)

guest reply :

THE HARDEST PART FOR ME IS TO GET THE FISH TO SIGN A REALEASE

Fish Chris reply :

The one that gets me, is when people will occasionally ask, "Do you mind if we use this photo for this add, article, cover, etc" ? Uhhhhh....... Well ya' see, I'm pretty secretive about my big catches..... and I really don't want the recognition.... Doh ! :-) Heck yes you can use my photo !..... But here, check these out too ! Take your pick ! Please use them all ! :-) LOL

Peace,

Fish

Low_Budget_Hooker reply :

Fish, you're a great ambassador for our sport so it doesn't surprise me but people get $$ for shots like yours. Kudos and thanks for freely sharing.

Now, the guy that made $$ off that older pic without your permission,...that's another story, I would have nailed him to the wall.

Says a lot for your character I guess. (and not so much for mine,lol)

Gotta Love It reply :

Quote
I don't understand what all the fuss is about.
My pictures always come out perfect 8-)

This is the BEST POST of the DAY!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

guest reply :

Quote
Fish, you're a great ambassador for our sport

And very generous about sharing information

FishChris gets the Avid

RoLo reply :

I'd just like to add something here, for those who may not know. Switching from "Auto" mode to "Manual" mode

may be accompanied by other default changes. For instance, the default focus for the Nikon D70s is "Closest Subject".

However, if you switch from "Auto" mode to "Manual" mode, the default focus automatically switches to "Area Focus" mode.

Here's the deal: When the focus is set to "Closest Subject", the camera focuses on the fish (closest subject) and not the fisherman.

However, when the camera is switched to "Manual" mode, the default focus automatically switches to "Area Focus" mode.

Therefore, if the fisherman's face happens to be in the focus box, the lens will focus on the fisherman rather than the fish.

Roger

Fish Chris reply :

Hey Rolo, you are correct.

But the "major" difference between a DSLR, like the D70, and a point and shoot, like my Fuji S7000, is that DSLR's have a very shallow depth of field, making focus very critical, and easy to screw up..... where as point and shoots have a very deep DOF, and are a lot easier to get a good focus with. In fact, depending on your settings, if you give just about a foot more space between the camera and the fish (than I sometimes do :-)), you can sometimes even get both yourself, and the fish, razor sharp with a point and shoot, while this is very difficult with a DSLR.

Peace,

Fish

RoLo reply :

Chris,

Speaking of depth-of-field, I was wondering if you ever tried using Aperture Priority instead of Full Manual?

In other words, cranking down on the aperture to maximize the depth-of-field.

(I realize that if it's overdone, then subject motion becomes an issue).

Roger

bgbfflochp reply :

Thanks for the info! I'll be going to Santee for a week at the end of this month. I will definitely be using your advice.

Now all I have to do is figure out how to get them in the boat! :-/

Captain Cali reply :

Great post!

I'm assuming the settings you all are talking about are for pictures taken during the day/sunlight hours. I'm also going to assume that taking pictures at night will require different settings. Any tips on manual settings for night time photos?

Stringjam reply :

Quote
Great post!
I'm assuming the settings you all are talking about are for pictures taken during the day/sunlight hours. I'm also going to assume that taking pictures at night will require different settings. Any tips on manual settings for night time photos?

You will have to use a flash for night time photos......unless you have a light source somewhere else.

If you want to get artistic with it (and who doesn't you can turn the flash off and stand facing a lower intensity light source. This will require opening your aperture to a very large setting and really slowing down shutter speed (many times to several seconds). And remember to stand PERFECTLY still during the shot. I've never taken any night shots of fish using this technique, but in general photography.

Here's one I took over the winter - - - you can see the effect.....

As far as depth-of-field.....a good point-shoot will handle it fine, but a DSLR should handle it with ease, as it is largely a product of proper aperture setting combined with shutter speed. Smaller aperture + longer shutter speed = greater depth of field.

Brian_Reeves reply :

Am I the only guy that uses a 1 time use waterproof Kodak $9.99 special? Something tells me I'm behind on the times. It's not the bait monkey...what monkey is it???

Low_Budget_Hooker reply :

Quote

Quote
Great post!
I'm assuming the settings you all are talking about are for pictures taken during the day/sunlight hours. I'm also going to assume that taking pictures at night will require different settings. Any tips on manual settings for night time photos?

You will have to use a flash for night time photos......unless you have a light source somewhere else.

If you want to get artistic with it (and who doesn't you can turn the flash off and stand facing a lower intensity light source. This will require opening your aperture to a very large setting and really slowing down shutter speed (many times to several seconds). And remember to stand PERFECTLY still during the shot. I've never taken any night shots of fish using this technique, but in general photography.

Here's one I took over the winter - - - you can see the effect.....

As far as depth-of-field.....a good point-shoot will handle it fine, but a DSLR should handle it with ease, as it is largely a product of proper aperture setting combined with shutter speed. Smaller aperture + longer shutter speed = greater depth of field.

The problem with this is the motion. Great pic of the tree, but it's a tree and is still. No matter how steady you are, you will be in a moving boat. (rocking, floating,etc) Very tough to not blur that shot. I don't think my camera is capable (fuji s5600)

Captain Cali reply :

Hey Russ,

What is a boat???

kbkindle reply :

kbkindle here cameras change every year they come out with some thing new all the time what do you guys think "now " would be a good camera to buy for fish taking. lot of guys like the cannon sure shot looking for one with the biggest view finder and a time delay cannon sure shot makes a few different typs dont know what work the best thanks kb

RoLo reply :

Quote
cameras change every year they come out with some thing new all the time what do you guys think "now " would be a good camera to buy for fish taking. lot of guys like the cannon sure shot thanks kb

kbkindle,

For many decades I've been a Canon buff, but lately I think that Canon is loosing their grip.

We all look for different features and capabilities so it's tough to recommend a camera.

Anyway, I recently performed a digicam shootout as I needed a camera for real estate photography as well as fish photography.

I selected and purchased the NIKON D70s and very glad that I did. It's a 6-Megapixel, CCD SLR, Compact Digicam.

On the downside, the Nikon lens is prohibitively expensive (18 - 200mm Zoom: $750).

Of course you can substitute with an aftermarket lens for much less money (sigma, vivatar, ~),

but then it would no longer be a Nikon, because the picture is only as good as the lens resolution.

Roger

Stringjam reply :

Quote
The problem with this is the motion. Great pic of the tree, but it's a tree and is still. No matter how steady you are, you will be in a moving boat. (rocking, floating,etc) Very tough to not blur that shot. I don't think my camera is capable (fuji s5600)

I realize it will be difficult - - but methinks an experiment is in order.... : to be continued........(of course, I get to use my little tripod.....that's a given..)

Fish Chris reply :

Ya' know Rolo, don't get me wrong, I think both the Nikon D70, and the Canon XTi are both great cameras...... But I think DSLR's are better suited for straight up "scenic" or "special effects" photography, rather than for self taken fish photos.

I have a {very sharp} buddy, who's wife recently took some great fish photos of him / for him, with his Canon XTi, but he has yet to figure out how to take good "self photos" with it. Problem is, even with the self timer set, the camera focuses the second he hits the shutter button...... and NOT when he sits back and poses with the fish. Yes, there are ways around this, but I just think it would be easier for a "fisherman" {who is not a straight up photographer} to use a nice quality point and shoot, like my Fuji S7000 or a Canon S3 Pro.

Just MPO,

Peace,

Fish

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