Strong Weedless Hooks 2025

Wayne P. reply :

None of the weedless hooks I have tried are strong enough to handle big bass in heavy cover so I made some up.

I used 1/8" electrical shrink tubing and some stiff mono.

The left, middle and bottom hook is a Gamakatsu Octopus hook 3/0 # 02413.

Just as a test, the right hook is a former Gamakatsu Weedless Finesse Wide Gap hook 4/0 that the plastic weedguard broke when the second bass was caught using it.

I fixed the 3/0 hooks for rigging Senkos wacky style with a perpendicular hook insertion which gives a better hook-up ratio than the parallel hook position when using O rings.

skillet reply :

I like'em! How does the shrink tubing hold up? Have you been using them long enough to tell. I sure had a heck of a time trying to get the worm straight when hooking parallel :-[...

skillet

VAfishin4me reply :

I have also had a lot of trouble with the Gama weedless hooks I use for wacky rigging, I eventually gave up and went to some split shot hooks, but those look great. Let us know how they work

Wayne P. reply :

The assembly works great. I made up a few earlier with some fluorocarbon line that was not as stiff as the pictured mono and they have held together fine. The material for the weedguard is still an on-going project as I may find a stiffer line that may work better. I have caught several bass with the components pictured and the only affect I can tell is maybe the water absorbsion of the line will lessen the stiffness some. I haven't found a suitable fluorocarbon line yet that may lessen that affect. As soon as I can get to a speciality salt water tackle store the carries true leader material of fluorocarbon, that may be the best option.

The only caution during the assembly is to not apply too much heat too fast as it affects the line.

Adding a piece of 3/8" electrical shrink tubing to a Senko for the hook insertion will add more durability also. This is one without the weedless addition.

skillet reply :

I just about have to have a weedless application! Let us know if you find salt water leader material and how it works. Places that sell salt water gear in the Mid-South are far and few (I wonder why that is?) ;D...

skillet

Wayne P. reply :

I colored the line so it would show up better in the photo

Paul Roberts reply :

Wayne, try Mason mono leader material. Fly and saltwater shops will carry it. It's the stiffest, hardest mono going. Been around a long time. I've been using Maxima Chameleon which is pretty stiff mono, but not as stiff as Mason.

Dan: reply :

so you are just making a loop, feeding the loop end through the hook and then around the hook barb. Is the heat wrap the only thing securing the loose ends of the loop to the hook shank?

Wayne P. reply :

Thanks Paul. I have some Mason fishing line and it is quite flexible, I'll try the leader material if I can find some. I got the pictured line in the fly fishing dept at a Gander Mountain store.

Dan, yes that is all it takes to assemble it. After the heat shrink cools, pull the line slightly, if it moves, reheat again. The key is to not use too much heat too fast that it will affect the line.

Crestliner2008 reply :

Great idea! Thanks for posting. Going to give that a try very soon.

Paul Roberts reply :

Quote
Thanks Paul. I have some Mason fishing line and it is quite flexible, I'll try the leader material if I can find some. I got the pictured line in the fly fishing dept at a Gander Mountain store.
Dan, yes that is all it takes to assemble it. After the heat shrink cools, pull the line slightly, if it moves, reheat again. The key is to not use too much heat too fast that it will affect the line.

There's a Mason line that is used for shock tippets, called "Hard Mono". Looks like BPS has/had it:

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_22711?cm_mmc=froogle-_-175-3-2-_--1-_-38-429-648-00&hvarAID=froogle&mr:trackingCode=7A5A7BA8-E881-DE11-B712-001422107090&mr:referralID=NA

I tried Wayne's method here and it does work. But you have to be very careful with the heat as the mono will just melt or curl right up. I tried a heat gun but way too much heat. I had to dig around the shop to find a lighter with a weak flame. I suppose an adjustable Bic type would be best.

Wayne P. reply :

You are right Paul about the heat. I use a grill butane lighter and just get the tubing close but not in the flame. I hold the hook in my fingers to monitor the heat-if it gets too hot to hold, I have heated it too fast. Holding one of those small lighters for more than a few seconds will burn your fingers too (been there, done that).

I'll be going by Bass Pro Shops near Knoxsville, Tenn. in a couple of weeks and will get some of the Mason line. Thanks

edited: you may have not noticed, but I crimped the line with pliers

where it hooks over the barb. Some may want the wider loop though. It works just as well both ways.

Brian4618 reply :

Have you looked into the steel fishin cable? When my dad and I go offshore we use it for the toothy fish and I believe it would make a good weed gaurd, it may be a little more pricey but I think it would hold up better.

Here is a link to some: http://www.alltackle.com/american_fishing_wire_stainless_steel_trolling_wire.htm

Wayne P. reply :

Thanks Brian, I am using mono especially because of the wireguard breaking on factory made weedless hooks.

The only metal I would consider would be titanium.

Dan: reply :

Thanks Wayne. I'm going to try to make a whole bunch sometime soon. I'm assuming you can buy the shrink tubing at most hardware stores?

Wayne, one more thing: I know you are basically a wacky-rigging guru; have you ever tried circle hooks?

NewAngler reply :

Wayne is a wacky rigging guru. Hands down.

You fish any other style, wayne?

Wayne P. reply :

Dan, yes I have tried circle hooks and have fished with persons that bought the octopus circle hooks by mistake when trying to duplicate how I weedless wacky rig finesse and Trick worms. I always carry lots of extra octopus hooks to relieve their frustration from missing fish.

LOL, NewAngler, I use all presentations and riggings. If the normal components are not up to the task, I try to figure out how to make it better.

Dan: reply :

Ok. I was just wondering because a guy I know swears by circle hooks (from a conservation standpoint) and I was wondering if maybe this was a way that I could start using them. I don't think I'd like not being able to set the hook though.

mudkart reply :

Quote
Thanks Wayne. I'm going to try to make a whole bunch sometime soon. I'm assuming you can buy the shrink tubing at most hardware stores?
Wayne, one more thing: I know you are basically a wacky-rigging guru; have you ever tried circle hooks?

Radio shack carries it, but, sometimes only in a frustrating assortment of diameters, many of which will be too large for this purpose. The larger diameters will work for placing on the worms themselves. That is not something I've tried yet, but wish I had after watching sooooo many worms fly off into the distance as the bare hook settles into the lake.

Wayne P. reply :

Radio Shack was the only place I found the 1/8" and it was in an assorted size package. There are three other sizes in that package that are useful.

The 3/16" is good for a trailer hook keeper (over the hook eye)

The 1/4" fits a Trick and finesse worm

The 3/8" fits a Senko

Dan: reply :

Quote
Radio Shack was the only place I found the 1/8" and it was in an assorted size package. There are three other sizes in that package that are useful.
The 3/16" is good for a trailer hook keeper (over the hook eye)

The 1/4" fits a Trick and finesse worm

The 3/8" fits a Senko

excellent! thanks for the tip

skillet reply :

Dan, I went to Lowe's today and they had packs in an assortment and they had packs that just contained 1/8"-1/2". If you don't have Lowe's, Home Depot carries pretty much the same things. Hope this helps...

skillet

Wayne P. reply :

Update on the weedguard material:

I stopped by the BPS near Knoxville yesterday and they didn't have the Mason Hard Type Nylon Leader material. I saw some stainless steel multi-strand leader material and purchased the 60# .021 diameter in 30' length and the color is black. The brand is Malin and it may be the best option for a weedguard. The best trait is when shrinking the tubing, the heat issue with nylon or fluorocarbon is eliminated. I assembled one 4/0 Octopus hook to try this week. If is too stiff, a lesser diameter may be better. It is definately stiff enough to stay in position when coming thru heavy weeds. Being stainless wire and more than a single strand, it should outperform any marketed weedless hook.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_53198____?ordProd=Y&CMID=TOP_selectitems#itemDetail

edited: I made an extra one for the picture. Also the metal to metal contact slips so a drop of super glue on the point end prevents the slippage.

Paul Roberts reply :

Probably have to get to a good fly-tying shop or a SW shop to get the Mason.

I've also used single strand stainless. The stuff I have is .016 diam. The one good thing about rigid wire is you can adjust the tension. Lotsa wires out there now -some quite fine. Fly-fishing shops also have very fine braided stuff -might be what you have. Comes in pretty light break strengths now.

Anyway, let us know what you come up with.

Wayne P. reply :

I used the new version today with very good success. I used a Senko and a Magnum Zoom Finesse Worm with 8 strikes and 7 catches. The braided stainless steel is easy to straighten after a fish bends it out of shape and doesn't hold the kink in the wire. It is stiff enough to work the baits thru heavy vegetation and timber without coming off the hook point. I'll stick with this version for a while. The rest of the fish I caught were with the weedless wacky rigged Zoom finesse worm.

Paul Roberts reply :

Wayne, what knot do you use with that hook -Palomar?

Wayne P. reply :

Paul, I use a Uni-Knot with 5 turns. I was using 20# fluorocarbon. The only time I use a Palomar knot is to tie the hook on a drop shot rig.

J Francho reply :

I prefer to snell this style hook. Any negatives to moving the shrink wrap weed guard down the hook shank?

Wayne P. reply :

J, I don't think so other than the roughness of the braided stainless steel damaging the line when cinching the knot down. I use the Uni-Knot for snelling also, but usually snell a hook when using heavy tungsten sinkers on Tx rigs ( it eliminates damage to the knot by the hard metal of the sinker since the sinker only hits against the hook eye ).

J Francho reply :

Thanks Wayne. These are supreme and elegantly rigged hooks. I've nevar realized much issue using an exposed hook point for wacky rigged worms, but then again, I don't drag the rig through heavy weeds either. I prefer teh the snelled hooks for the same reason as you, and would also cite the physics of the hookset as an advantage, if you are like me and cannot simply reel down on the fish, LOL. I'll have to mess around with this. Thanks for sharing it again.

Paul Roberts reply :

Quote
Thanks Wayne. These are supreme and elegantly rigged hooks. I've nevar realized much issue using an exposed hook point for wacky rigged worms, but then again, I don't drag the rig through heavy weeds either. I prefer teh the snelled hooks for the same reason as you, and would also cite the physics of the hookset as an advantage, if you are like me and cannot simply reel down on the fish, LOL. I'll have to mess around with this. Thanks for sharing it again.

That's what I was thinking -line/point angle. I always snelled up-eye hooks -out of necessity. For fly-fishing, where there is a fly head (thread wraps) to deal with I used a Euro knot called a "Tweed Clinch" -essentially a clinch knot but the line is first run through the eye, under the head, then back out the eye again on the other side of the head. From there you just tie the regular clinch. It places the knot wraps inside the eye, and leaves the tippet in-line with the shank. Good knot -caught plenty of big browns and steelies with it.

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Strong Weedless Hooks 2025

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