Can you use a monofilament line for crankbaits
Yes, the crank will run more of its suggested rating if you use mono aswell.
You sure can!
Yup, thats all I use for crankbaits in either 10 or 12 lb.
I like mono for my squarebills
Mono will help your lures run at the rated depth.
On 3/2/2015 at 8:01 AM, ABW said:Not necessarily
Why do you disagree ?
Most folks use mono for cranks, and treble hooked top water lures for that matter. The stretch of the line being the biggest advantage.
But, IMHO since the advent of all the different line types now a days, and glass/composite/slower action rods on the market, there seems to be somewhat of a shift away from useing straight mono exclusively.
Mike
Who throws a DT-6 on 15 pound mono? The resistance does nothing to dictate the depth that the lure dives to. 15 pound mono and flouro are the exact same diameter, I can assure that mono will not push the lure up. With flouro the line sinks with the bait as it is diving letting it reach greater depths as it is being reeled. The mono will no have the force to push the bait up in the water.
"Can you use a monofilament line for crankbaits ?"
The short answer is Yes.
A more complete answer revolves around understanding that just like the rods & reels we use, your line is a tool. Rarely does one tool work for every job. This is the case when discussing line choice for any technique including throwing a crank bait. Everyone has their own method and what works for them - meaning there's no definitive right answer.
I do like mono for cranking in some open water situations, usually 12 or 14 lb.test. I also like braid for some of that too. I do not like mono when working in, around or through aquatic vegetation where I like to be able to rip the bait out with authority and mono just doesn't work well there; Braid gets it done.
There are other situations depending on the type of conditions you're faced with and the type of crank bait your fishing.
So there's a little something to consider.
A-Jay
You can use mono for any type of fishing and it works fine. Fisherman have been using it for over 70 years for every type of fishing under the sun. I used it all the time until I discovered something else that worked better. I now only use it for spooks and poppers. One of the best bass fisherman I know only uses Triline mono. You need to see what works best for you.
On 3/2/2015 at 8:29 AM, Matthew2000 said:Who throws a DT-6 on 15 pound mono? The resistance does nothing to dictate the depth that the lure dives to. 15 pound mono and flouro are the exact same diameter, I can assure that mono will not push the lure up. With flouro the line sinks with the bait as it is diving letting it reach greater depths as it is being reeled. The mono will no have the force to push the bait up in the water.
Just wondering where you've been getting your information. Of the two lines (fluoro and mono) diameters differ for identical pound test ratings. The resistance of the line DOES dictate the maximum depth a crank will achieve. Lastly, fluoro's sinking characteristic has nothing to do with how deep a crank will run. Cranks will attain almost identical depth with lines of the same diameter. It, fluoro, is a better choice for deeper cranking because if it's smaller diameter and lower stretch characteristic, the latter of which is misuderstood .
BTW, I never use line with a diameter greater than .013in.(12lb. mono) unless I want a crank to run shallower than it's rated. 15lb. mono on a DT-6 reduces not only the depth it will run, but hinders it's action.
To answer the original question, yes you can and in most applications I prefer it.
Use what you can afford to use.
That's all I use is mono for cranks. 12 pound suffix seige should do the trick.
Just use P-line cxx and don't worry about what everyone else says. LOL
On 3/2/2015 at 8:14 AM, Mike L said:Most folks use mono for cranks, and treble hooked top water lures for that matter. The stretch of the line being the biggest advantage.
But, IMHO since the advent of all the different line types now a days, and glass/composite/slower action rods on the market, there seems to be somewhat of a shift away from useing straight mono exclusively.
Mike
Matthew, some like to use a soft tip graphite rod for treble hook baits and therefore mono is the way to go as mono's stretch helps set the hook and keep the fish hooked during the fight.
Mono also floats which many believe keeps the topwaters' front from pointing down in the water and you get a better "pop" with mono then the other lines.
Now, with the introduction of other line types, many of the pros are using flouro, copoly and braid to avoid the line stretch of mono. Flouro has some stretch to it but not as drastic as mono.
It is a personal choice as to what lines you use and for what presentations.
It boils down to confidence in your line.
On 3/2/2015 at 9:12 AM, A-Jay said:Rarely does one tool work for every job.
My gosh...this answer is as funny to me as the question itself. 20 years ago...mono was all we had, most people used a 6'6" MH rod for everything, and we still caught fish.
I get it...it's all technique specific this day and age...but you don't need special line to catch fish. You don't need 5 different rods either. 9 times out of 10, you don't need more than a few lures.
Yes OP, mono will pull a crankbait through the water.
Not to disrespect anyone's opinion, but marketing has really gotten people buffalo'd into thinking they need 1 of everything.
On 3/2/2015 at 2:40 PM, Sam said:Matthew, some like to use a soft tip graphite rod for treble hook baits and therefore mono is the way to go as mono's stretch helps set the hook and keep the fish hooked during the fight.
Since when does line stretch "help" set a hook? Line stretch is counterproductive in setting a hook.
Bill Dance, Roland Martin, Jimmy Houston, and all the others never caught any bass, because they only had mono. Those were just made up stories for the fishing magazines.
Hootie
I fish monofilament, specifically Sunline Super Natural, with all treble hook lures.
On 3/2/2015 at 8:35 PM, chelboed said:My gosh...this answer is as funny to me as the question itself. 20 years ago...mono was all we had, most people used a 6'6" MH rod for everything, and we still caught fish.
I get it...it's all technique specific this day and age...but you don't need special line to catch fish. You don't need 5 different rods either. 9 times out of 10, you don't need more than a few lures.
Yes OP, mono will pull a crankbait through the water.
Not to disrespect anyone's opinion, but marketing has really gotten people buffalo'd into thinking they need 1 of everything.
Since when does line stretch "help" set a hook? Line stretch is counterproductive in setting a hook.
Nearly five decades of bass fishing has taught at least 3 things;
1). The tackle used in days gone by still catches bass
2). Some of the newer tackle & techniques also catch bass and often times I prefer them
&
3) Apparently, I'm funny.
A-Jay
I use either mono or copolymer exclusively for any bait with trebles.
Define mono filament line.
Tom
On 3/3/2015 at 4:56 AM, WRB said:Define mono filament line.
Tom
Tom,
I realize that technically copolymers are "monofilament". However in common nomenculture fishermen
generally define the term as nylon. Copolymers are considered a blend and fluorocarbon a crystal even
though the resins determine the characteristics of specific brands.
As you know I am baiting the thread.
What is interesting is the diehard belief that mono stretches more than FC and FC line is thinner dismeter than mono. Nothing could be further form the truth.
FC does have less friction or drag going through water than mono lines.
I use Big Gsme mono for my crank baits because it performs extremely good with deep diving lures and is inexpensive. I am getting more and more confident using Sunline Armilo Defier a Nylon mono for everything including crank baits, the only draw back is price compared to other mono lines.
Tom
On 3/3/2015 at 9:01 AM, WRB said:As you know I am baiting the thread.
What is interesting is the diehard belief that mono stretches more than FC and FC line is thinner dismeter than mono. Nothing could be further form the truth.
FC does have less friction or drag going through water than mono lines.
I use Big Gsme mono for my crank baits because it performs extremely good with deep diving lures and is inexpensive. I am getting more and more confident using Sunline Armilo Defier a Nylon mono for everything including crank baits, the only draw back is price compared to other mono lines.
Tom
As long as it's been brought up twice, I'll add what my searches have shone me and please keep in mind, I despise fluorocarbon. Almost all the fluorocarbon lines I was able to locate on various sites show a smaller diameter than 'mono' for the same pound test lines, and thus the resulting reduction in friction. What is farthest from the truth, as far as the numbers show is that 'mono' and fluoro have the same diameter for equal pound tests. Some copolymers do have identical diameters to their fluorocarbon counterparts, but with the exception of Trilene XL, the majority of those lines have either fluorocarbon based formulas, or are coated fluorocarbon variants. Stretch is a whole different discussion as temperature has a profound influence as to the amount of, or lack of stretch on both line types.
Don't forget, some mono absorbs water, while FC its said, does not. Some Mono lines are enhanced w copolymer then coated with a silicon R Flouric Resin coating that repels water. Those are the lines I use 95% of the time.
Line diameter verses lb test mono vs FC
Berkley 100% FC vs Big Gsme mono, same diameters
Lb test.
6. = .010
8. = .011
10= .012
12= .013
15= .015
17= .016
20= .017
25= .019
Sunline Sniper FC vs Defier mono
7= .0086 mono
8= .0093 FC. Berkley = .011
10= .0102 FC. Berkley = .012
11= .0108 mono
12= .0112 FC. Berkley = .013
13= .0118 mono
14= .0122 FC
15= .0126 mono. Berkley = .015
16= .0130 FC
17= .0134 mono. Berkley = .016
19= .0142 mono
20= .0146 FC......Berkley = .017
22= .015 mono
25= .0159 mono ... Berkley = .019
Big differences, Sunline mono 25 lb test is the same dia as Berkley mono or FC 17 lb test.
Most Japanise lines are similar to Sunline, domestic similar to Berkley.
Diameter matters how line performs, smaller allows the lure to have more action, dive deeper and less drag in the water.
Tom
We according to Paul Elias y'all aint gonna get more than a foot difference in depth.
I think I'll go with ole Paul
On 3/3/2015 at 11:43 AM, papajoe222 said:As long as it's been brought up twice, I'll add what my searches have shone me and please keep in mind, I despise fluorocarbon. Almost all the fluorocarbon lines I was able to locate on various sites show a smaller diameter than 'mono' for the same pound test lines, and thus the resulting reduction in friction. What is farthest from the truth, as far as the numbers show is that 'mono' and fluoro have the same diameter for equal pound tests. Some copolymers do have identical diameters to their fluorocarbon counterparts, but with the exception of Trilene XL, the majority of those lines have either fluorocarbon based formulas, or are coated fluorocarbon variants. Stretch is a whole different discussion as temperature has a profound influence as to the amount of, or lack of stretch on both line types.
X Infinity ~
Me Too.
A-Jay
Which one will cast better? I've heard mono casts better, but after its been on a reel for a month and turns into a phone cord...I'd think zero memory line would cast better.
On 3/3/2015 at 10:13 PM, chelboed said:Which one will cast better? I've heard mono casts better, but after its been on a reel for a month and turns into a phone cord...I'd think zero memory line would cast better.
The solution to is change your line often or choose braid, braid is not trouble free however..
The 1 thing FC line offers is weaker knot strength....guaranteed!
Equal or more stretch, equal or less abrasion resistance, higher prices, more memory, less drag, less light refraction, some brands have smaller diameters, FC sinks most mono's float.
No panacea.
Tom
On 3/3/2015 at 10:27 PM, Alonerankin2 said:The solution to is change your line often or choose braid, braid is not trouble free however..
I've only used a few different types of braid...but I didn't like the experience. Tell me what you think:
Spiderwire...I felt that rubbing it against rocks and stumps caused it to fray badly.
Berkeley Fireline...by far the noisiest line on retrieve I've ever experienced. I have a sensitive rod, so the line was audibly annoying and felt like crap. Casted okay, but not as good as Stren mono.
Any thoughts?
On 3/3/2015 at 11:59 PM, chelboed said:I've only used a few different types of braid...but I didn't like the experience. Tell me what you think:
Spiderwire...I felt that rubbing it against rocks and stumps caused it to fray badly.
Berkeley Fireline...by far the noisiest line on retrieve I've ever experienced. I have a sensitive rod, so the line was audibly annoying and felt like crap. Casted okay, but not as good as Stren mono.
Any thoughts?
Uh, yea, plenty, lol.. Ok I'm not in the braid camp at all.. For many reasons, but I throw monos and FC on spinning with no trouble, ever... I change line quite often, more than most. I felt like 832 probably threw better than any braid I've tried.. If your still interested in braid, maybe give it a whirl.
Line is always going to be prone to damage no matter what it's made of.. But I do see braid as a hinderance in Rocks, etc.. But not in soft cover, hydrilla, pads,etc..
thx
Here has been my evolution after experimenting with several lines to cast cranks:
1) First line was Trilene 100% fluorocarbon. I found the line stretched too much - on long casts it was like setting the hook with a rubber band and I would miss too many hook-ups. Also, its fluorocarbon and I grew tired of rats nests.
2) I switched to Berkley XL. Much easier to handle and less stretch than Trilene fluorocarbon. However, not very abrasion resistant.
3) The line I settled on was Yo-Zuri Hybrid. Stretches less than either of the above, and doesn't absorb water and become stretchier over time. Also very abrasion resistant, and little to no rats nests.
A close second for me was Trilene XT but it is a little thicker in diameter than YH.
To answer your question yes, mono works as well as any other line. there are advantages and disadvantages of all 3 types of line (which I will not get into!)
The thing that has been discussed about mono floating and fluoro sinking is BS in the sense we are talking about here. its all about line diameter. and the thing that the others have been "discussing" is partly true on both sides. the fluoro line of the same "rated strength" will get the bait deeper because its thinner. why is it thinner? <---- Thats the important question! because if you take the diameter of a couple of main brand fluoro's they are smaller than most of the main brand mono's/Co-poly's. thats because their "breaking strength" is closer to the "rated strength". P-line 100% Fluoro, Invizx, and Sunline shooter all break within a pound of advertised strength. Look at a few mono's/Co-poly's and the same "rated" line breaks much higher BUT also has a higher diameter. Trilene XL, Yo-zuri, and CXX are the 3 that I use and all are rated at 12lb and all break close to 20lbs.
Lesson for today? mono works just fine and For EVERY BRAND & EVERY TYPE of line take the "advertised breaking strength" with a grain of salt. Also look around online and you should be able to find a test done for all the name brand lines.
There's that "rubber band" anology again, lol..
I know, that fluorocarbon is really stretchy stuff... and yet marketed to be low stretch. How ironic ~
not as crazy as 20 and 25 pound breaking strength line marketed as 15 pound line. There are no rules for the labels, you just have to be informed.On 4/16/2015 at 4:04 AM, FryDog62 said:I know, that fluorocarbon is really stretchy stuff... and yet marketed to be low stretch. How ironic ~
Maybe some day there will be a centralized governing body that does all line testing consistently for stretch, breaking strength, sensitivity, etc.... But that sounds too much like big government and we need less of that You're right, its best to test things out and see what works for you best. I think too often we as fishermen (including myself) get stuck on one line or one method and settle in before learning about other maybe more viable options.