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Is a 5' UL rod too small for bank fishing? 2024


fishing user avatarJBT1981 reply : 

Hi,

I bought a 5' UL Ugly Stik and paired it with a Pflueger Trion 120 and some 4# mono. I wanted a rig dedicated to bluegill, sunfish and crappie that was easy to maneuver with through trees etc.

On the bank last night, I landed some bluegill, but I also missed a lot. I began thinking that either

1) I just need more practice (I've only been fishing for a few months),

2) My 5' rod may not be long enough to give me decent leverage, or

3) the ultralight action doesn't 'snap' home as fast when I try to set the hook.

 

Do the rod and reel seem like the issue here?

 

 


fishing user avatarLionHeart reply : 

An ultra light is pretty flimsy but then again so are blue gill.  What type of hooks are you using?

 

Question #2 is a myth that keeps getting perpetuated in the fresh water fishing community.  A longer rod gives you less leverage, not more. 

 

Do you mean it feels like you are not moving enough line during hook set?


fishing user avatarMN Fisher reply : 

Up until this year, my UL rig was an old Pflueger 640 on a 5' Ugly Stick and never had an issue with setting the hook. One thing to make sure of - make sure they're quality hooks and touch them up with a sharpener to make sure they're needle-sharp.


fishing user avatarJBT1981 reply : 

I'm using some cheap #6 hooks that came in a kit. Not the best hooks, for sure.

I think part of it might be my hookset. I've read that panfish, especially crappie, can have a hook tear right through their lip on a strong set. I initially just tried to 'pull' or swing my rod to the side. I wasn't being gentle but I wasn't trying to slam the hook home. The few times I was aggressive with the set, the hook would come flying out of the water!


fishing user avatarMN Fisher reply : 

VMC or Gamakatsu hooks - worth the money.

 

Don't need much of a sweep to set the hook on panfish. If your rod is pointed at 11 O'Clock when you want to set, just a gentle sweep to 9 O'Clock (or 1 and 3 if you sweep to the right).


fishing user avatarHeartland reply : 
  On 5/27/2019 at 5:43 AM, LionHeart said:

An ultra light is pretty flimsy but then again so are blue gill.  What type of hooks are you using?

 

Question #2 is a myth that keeps getting perpetuated in the fresh water fishing community.  A longer rod gives you less leverage, not more. 

 

Do you mean it feels like you are not moving enough line during hook set?

Question 2 depends a lot on where you believe the fulcrum is.  Some think the hand is the fulcrum, others believe it is the part of the rod that goes from action to power.  Not an engineer so I can't swear to either.  I think the best example that I can think of off hand is that you do not often see saltwater sport fisherman fishing tuna or marlin on a 5ft rod.

 


fishing user avatarLionHeart reply : 
  On 5/27/2019 at 6:19 AM, Heartland said:

Question 2 depends a lot on where you believe the fulcrum is.  Some think the hand is the fulcrum, others believe it is the part of the rod that goes from action to power.  Not an engineer so I can't swear to either.  I think the best example that I can think of off hand is that you do not often see saltwater sport fisherman fishing tuna or marlin on a 5ft rod.

 

Nah man, it isn't a matter of opinion, but a matter of fact.  A longer rod gives a greater moment (pulling force) to the fish.

 

Think of it like a pry bar.


fishing user avatarWRB reply : 

Just reel and lift the rod, rod hook sets are not needed. Get a diamond hook sharpening hone for a few dollars and sharpen the bait holder hooks you have.

What are you using for bait?

Tom


fishing user avatarJBT1981 reply : 
  On 5/27/2019 at 6:36 AM, WRB said:

Just reel and lift the rod, rod hook sets are not needed. Get a diamond hook sharpening hone for a few dollars and sharpen the bait holder hooks you have.

What are you using for bait?

Tom

Gulp! Minnows, both 1" and 2.5". They seem to love them!


fishing user avatarNYWayfarer reply : 

I have caught LMB in the 2lb range on 4# test mono using a size 6 Eagle Claw Aberdeen hook meant for panfish. 

 

It’s all in playing the fish until you get him to shore. Using drag, keeping constant tension and fighting the urge to horse the fish in and you can land almost any fish. 

 

I watch Professional and YouTube anglers waterski a fish on the surface and think I know why they do it but where is the fun. 

 

Landing a big fish on light tackle is one of life’s great joys.


fishing user avatarWRB reply : 

Wait a longer until the fish move off with the bait then reel and lift, it's a timing issue.

The 4" pocket diamond hook hone will sharpen any hook and last until to lose it, about $2.50-$3 at BPS or wherever.

Tom


fishing user avatarHeartland reply : 
  On 5/27/2019 at 6:34 AM, LionHeart said:

Nah man, it isn't a matter of opinion, but a matter of fact.  A longer rod gives a greater moment (pulling force) to the fish.

 

Think of it like a pry bar.

Like I said originally it depends on where you believe the fulcrum is.   If it is a matter of fact, then please support it. Sorry OP, we are off topic in your thread.  My last reply on this subject.


fishing user avatargreentrout reply : 

i don't fish ultralight from the bank when lily pads surround the pond ... go to a short rod 5'6"or 5'10" at least ... med. action sometimes med. heavy ... 

 

good fishing ...

 

 

 


fishing user avatarHeartland reply : 

I prefer a rod of a little longer length.  I have many from 5.5 to 7.0.   Maybe a two piece rod would work in your particular situation.


fishing user avatarJBT1981 reply : 

So it seems that (at least after a quick Google search anyway) that most people prefer a 6'+ fishing rod, I have to wonder what uses there are for a 5' UL rod? Ice fishing? 

I thought it would be easier to maneuver along banks with trees and brush, but that seems to be a small gain for a lot of bigger losses...


fishing user avatarClintIsKING reply : 

I have a UL 5ft rod I use for trout fishing in small streams and I don't really set the hook per say more of a sweeping motion. Maybe give it an extra second or two to ensure they have the bait. From my experience with bluegill/panfish they tend to hold onto the end of the bait a lot of the "hits" versus actually swallowing it. 


fishing user avatarLionHeart reply : 
  On 5/27/2019 at 6:57 AM, Heartland said:

Like I said originally it depends on where you believe the fulcrum is.   If it is a matter of fact, then please support it. Sorry OP, we are off topic in your thread.  My last reply on this subject.

That's just the thing.  The fulcrum is where it is.  Where someone believes it is, is irrelevant.

 

Support?  Arm×Weight=Moment


fishing user avatarQUAKEnSHAKE reply : 
  On 5/27/2019 at 6:57 AM, Heartland said:

Like I said originally it depends on where you believe the fulcrum is.   If it is a matter of fact, then please support it. Sorry OP, we are off topic in your thread.  My last reply on this subject.

Shovel half a driveway with a 12" snowfall with a 10 foot shovel(good luck) and other half with a 4 foot shovel.

A shovel is a 3rd class lever just as a fishing rod is a 3rd class lever. The shorter the lever the more power you have.

 

http://www.softschools.com/examples/simple_machines/class_three_lever_examples/513/


fishing user avatarHeartland reply : 
  1. Lots of "techie" stuff follows...........
     
    Answer 1 : The longer the rod the more leverage advantage the fish has & the less line tension the angler can generate for the same effort.

    Answer 2 : Depends on where the angler is holding that rod ( but not practical )

    As usual our simple fishing rod has a complex dynamic.
    A fishing rod is not a classical lever , as they are rigid.
    A fishing rod is a flexible lever.
    there are 3 classes of levers.

    When casting a rod it acts as a reverse Class1 lever.
    - the effort is applied on the short end of the lever (the butt) & the top hand acts as the fulcrum ( yes its moving too & applying some effort , but it results in a class 1 lever action).

    When fighting a fish, pulling on a rod it acts as a Class 3 lever.
    - the butt of the rod acts as the fulcrum and the effort is applied at the foregrip with the "load" being line tension at the tip .

    levers generate torque at the fulcrum and are explained as a 
    torque-leverage-force equation.
    With a rigid lever ( rod) the equation is well understood.
    load x load to fulcrum distance = effort x effort to fulcrum distance.
    irrespective of the class of lever the equation holds true.
    - where the load & effort are not perpendicular to the rigid lever their effective force is reduced by the angle they are applied at from the perpendicular.
    - the effective force at an angle is called a vectored force.

    forces in a fishing rod as a lever are all vectored forces :-
    a) because the rod is a flexible lever 
    &
    b) because none of the forces in practice are applied perpendicular to the "effective" lever.

    as a fishing rod is flexible its leverage is not explained by the classical rigid lever situation, but it uses the same equations & physics/engineering.

    Sooooo....... pulling on a rod:-
    * its fulcrum is the rod butt in a fighting belt.
    * the effective lever & length is the STRAIGHT line from the deflected tip to the butt.
    * the effective load is line tension on the tip at the angle the line is relative to the effective lever ( this is a critical concept to understand in how a rod works & what the effort efficiency of different types of rods is ).
    effective load leverage = line tension ( drag setting etc) x Cosine of the difference between the actual line angle to perpendicular to the EFFECTIVE load lever X the length of the EFFECTIVE load lever.
    * the effective effort is angler input at the foregrip at the angle of the angler's forearm.
    * the EFFECTIVE lever is the straightline from the hand on the rod at the foregrip to the butt.
    the effective effort leverage = angler effort x cosine of the angle between the forearm & the perpendicular to the EFFECTIVE effort lever x the length of the EFFECTIVE effort lever

    In equilibrium where the rod is deflected but not moving up or down
    load leverage = effort leverage...........and this holds true irrespective of the angle the rod is being held at................as its the angles of load & effort to the EFFECTIVE levers that change with rod orientation & cause equilibrium in leverage.
    the Equilibrium is resolved as a torque equation at the fulcrum as the EFFECTIVE load lever & EFFECTIVE effort lever are in different horizontal planes ( this is different to a classdical rigid lever , where both are in the same plane ).

    Sooooo............ the load leverage in a rod is the tip to butt deflected length , which is always longer than the effort leverage , which is foregrip to butt deflected length so a longer rod is less effort efficient than a shorter rod.

    Ha Ha I posted the equations & diagrams for this quite some time back.
    If anyone is seriously interested in them I can post them again in this thread.

    Now you can start to see explanations of the different effort efficiency of different rod actions.
    Lets take 2 types :-
    A parabolic rod & a fast taper rod of equal length & equal line class.
    - a fast taper rod always has a longer EFFECTIVE lever length.
    - A fast taper rod always has a smaller angle between line angle at the tip & the perpendicular to the EFFECTIVE lever...............therefore the effective load leverage is always higher.
    - this means for equal angler effort the equilibrium load ( line tension ) is lower for a fast taper rod than for a parabolic rod.

    The key element here is that the parabolic rod deflects further & decreases
    the angle from the EFFECTIVE lever and the line............this increases the line tension that results from the same angler effort.

    Wonderful thing Physics when you understand it & how to use it in engineering to your advantage.
    Its complex tho & you need to apply the right physics for the particular application.
    its easy to assume the wrong physics for the application & fool yourself.

    It took me more than a decade of extensive research to establish the truth of how a fishing rod works as a flexible lever & what the applicable physics for them was.
    Extensive testing (with rigorous 3-way validation) has developed an explanation & predictive formula which is accurate to 2% .............this is equivalent to measurement errors, not errors in the physics formulae.

    BTW..............once you come to grips with the concept of EFFECTIVE levers in a deflected rod ............the physics is basically the same as in a 'pinch' bar with an angled foot, where the load & effort are not in the same horizontal plane .........despite the lever being rigid in the case of such a 'pinch' bar.
    `

fishing user avatarQUAKEnSHAKE reply : 
  On 5/27/2019 at 12:25 PM, Heartland said:
  1. Lots of "techie" stuff follows............if you are not into it read another thread
    :) 

    " using a longer rod gives you better leverage on the fish. I am not good in mathematics or physics, but doesnt a long rod give the fish a better lever on you too?"

    explanations;...........how long is a piece of string.

    Answer 1 : The longer the rod the more leverage advantage the fish has & the less line tension the angler can generate for the same effort.

    Answer 2 : Depends on where the angler is holding that rod ( but not practical )

    As usual our simple fishing rod has a complex dynamic.
    A fishing rod is not a classical lever , as they are rigid.
    A fishing rod is a flexible lever.
    there are 3 classes of levers.

    When casting a rod it acts as a reverse Class1 lever.
    - the effort is applied on the short end of the lever (the butt) & the top hand acts as the fulcrum ( yes its moving too & applying some effort , but it results in a class 1 lever action).

    When fighting a fish, pulling on a rod it acts as a Class 3 lever.
    - the butt of the rod acts as the fulcrum and the effort is applied at the foregrip with the "load" being line tension at the tip .

    levers generate torque at the fulcrum and are explained as a 
    torque-leverage-force equation.
    With a rigid lever ( rod) the equation is well understood.
    load x load to fulcrum distance = effort x effort to fulcrum distance.
    irrespective of the class of lever the equation holds true.
    - where the load & effort are not perpendicular to the rigid lever their effective force is reduced by the angle they are applied at from the perpendicular.
    - the effective force at an angle is called a vectored force.

    forces in a fishing rod as a lever are all vectored forces :-
    a) because the rod is a flexible lever 
    &
    b) because none of the forces in practice are applied perpendicular to the "effective" lever.

    as a fishing rod is flexible its leverage is not explained by the classical rigid lever situation, but it uses the same equations & physics/engineering.

    Sooooo....... pulling on a rod:-
    * its fulcrum is the rod butt in a fighting belt.
    * the effective lever & length is the STRAIGHT line from the deflected tip to the butt.
    * the effective load is line tension on the tip at the angle the line is relative to the effective lever ( this is a critical concept to understand in how a rod works & what the effort efficiency of different types of rods is ).
    effective load leverage = line tension ( drag setting etc) x Cosine of the difference between the actual line angle to perpendicular to the EFFECTIVE load lever X the length of the EFFECTIVE load lever.
    * the effective effort is angler input at the foregrip at the angle of the angler's forearm.
    * the EFFECTIVE lever is the straightline from the hand on the rod at the foregrip to the butt.
    the effective effort leverage = angler effort x cosine of the angle between the forearm & the perpendicular to the EFFECTIVE effort lever x the length of the EFFECTIVE effort lever

    In equilibrium where the rod is deflected but not moving up or down
    load leverage = effort leverage...........and this holds true irrespective of the angle the rod is being held at................as its the angles of load & effort to the EFFECTIVE levers that change with rod orientation & cause equilibrium in leverage.
    the Equilibrium is resolved as a torque equation at the fulcrum as the EFFECTIVE load lever & EFFECTIVE effort lever are in different horizontal planes ( this is different to a classdical rigid lever , where both are in the same plane ).

    Sooooo............ the load leverage in a rod is the tip to butt deflected length , which is always longer than the effort leverage , which is foregrip to butt deflected length so a longer rod is less effort efficient than a shorter rod.

    Ha Ha I posted the equations & diagrams for this quite some time back.
    If anyone is seriously interested in them I can post them again in this thread.

    Now you can start to see explanations of the different effort efficiency of different rod actions.
    Lets take 2 types :-
    A parabolic rod & a fast taper rod of equal length & equal line class.
    - a fast taper rod always has a longer EFFECTIVE lever length.
    - A fast taper rod always has a smaller angle between line angle at the tip & the perpendicular to the EFFECTIVE lever...............therefore the effective load leverage is always higher.
    - this means for equal angler effort the equilibrium load ( line tension ) is lower for a fast taper rod than for a parabolic rod.

    The key element here is that the parabolic rod deflects further & decreases
    the angle from the EFFECTIVE lever and the line............this increases the line tension that results from the same angler effort.

    Wonderful thing Physics when you understand it & how to use it in engineering to your advantage.
    Its complex tho & you need to apply the right physics for the particular application.
    its easy to assume the wrong physics for the application & fool yourself.

    It took me more than a decade of extensive research to establish the truth of how a fishing rod works as a flexible lever & what the applicable physics for them was.
    Extensive testing (with rigorous 3-way validation) has developed an explanation & predictive formula which is accurate to 2% .............this is equivalent to measurement errors, not errors in the physics formulae.

    BTW..............once you come to grips with the concept of EFFECTIVE levers in a deflected rod ............the physics is basically the same as in a 'pinch' bar with an angled foot, where the load & effort are not in the same horizontal plane .........despite the lever being rigid in the case of such a 'pinch' bar.

    Enjoy the read????
    Did it help ????

    FWIW
     
     
     
     
  2. `

Your conclusion proves you wrong. Cant compare parabolic to fast thats apples to oranges need to compare fast to fast parabolic to parabolic and still a person using a 4' short parabolic rod will lift a 10 pound weight easier than a 10' parabolic rod all other features being equal. 


fishing user avatarHeartland reply : 
 
 
1
  On 5/27/2019 at 12:43 PM, QUAKEnSHAKE said:

Your conclusion proves you wrong. Cant compare parabolic to fast thats apples to oranges need to compare fast to fast parabolic to parabolic and still a person using a 4' short parabolic rod will lift a 10 pound weight easier than a 10' parabolic rod all other features being equal. 

Not my explanation, it was borrowed from another fishing forum where a similar question was asked.   I think the conclusion was reached long before the comparison of parabolic and fast action rods.  " A longer rod is less effort efficient than a shorter rod"    I believe the example was to just demonstrate how the action of the rod can change the equation based on the flex in the rod and the shortening of the effective load lever.


fishing user avatarVilas15 reply : 

My 5' ultralight did fine with some 13" crappies this weekend. Just make sure your hooks are sharp and that you reel up slack in the line then just keep reeling and give it a light hookset. A longer rod will result in less force applied to the hook but will be applied over a larger distance for a more consistent pressure. If youre using a bobber a longer rod will help take up the slack so you can react faster. Thats why walleye slip bobber rods are 7'6" or 8'.


fishing user avatarWRB reply : 

You all are barking up the wrong tree regarding Archimdedes fulcrum when discussing flexible fishing rods. Consider a very parabolic fly rod vs a ridgid steel rod, the forces are very different and non linear.

The op's 5' UL is very flexible and leverage power isn't an issue with pan fish, it's all about transportation through terrian to access fishing areas. There are some good telescoping rods and crappie poles as an option. What the op has is good for what he is doing. Also take a look at pan fish Thill slipe bobbers with bobber stops allowing the bobber to be next to the lure to cast and slides up to the stop set at whatever depth is needed, very popular with bank trout angler using micro jig in deeper water with short rods.

Just reel to hook set and lift the rod when it's bent. Reels take up line faster then a long rod can.

Tom

 

 


fishing user avatarJBT1981 reply : 
  On 5/27/2019 at 6:36 AM, WRB said:

Just reel and lift the rod, rod hook sets are not needed. Get a diamond hook sharpening hone for a few dollars and sharpen the bait holder hooks you have.

What are you using for bait?

Tom

Gulp! Minnows, both 1" and 2.5". They seem to love them!


fishing user avatarWRB reply : 

2.5" maybe too much for bluegill but crappie can engulf them ok.

Tom


fishing user avatarJBT1981 reply : 

I think a lot of the problem just might be my timing in setting the hook. I went out today, and of the numerous 'hits' on my line, I only caught one bluegill and had another huge beast take my hook, and run with it before the line snapped (hearing that drag let out and seeing the rod bend over was exciting as all get our!).


fishing user avatarSquarebill79 reply : 

Get some 1/32 or 1/16th ounce jigs instead. I catch thousands of panfish every year on those two jig sizes and 2.5 inch gulp minnows. If you are missing alot of bluegills they are probably the smaller ones nipping at it. You have to get lucky to hook the smaller ones with that setup, they usually require even smaller hooks and baits. The 2.5 inch gulp should catch plenty of crappie, bigger gills, and the occasional bass though. 


fishing user avatarQUAKEnSHAKE reply : 

I agree with Squarebill79 get smaller hooks

I also have a 5' UL Ugly Stick and use 1"gulp minnows but use 1/124,1/80,1/64 jig heads. 1/80 pictured uses #10 size hook

IMG_3121.jpg.c26ee84efa868cd7e2d0cdec9b9d3073.jpg


fishing user avatarAlTheFisherman313 reply : 

When pan fishing I use a cheap 5'6" UL uggo stick *25th anniversary edition(it matters ????????) paired to a 20 year old penn and usually fish for them with small jig heads and grubs with my nephews while they bobber fish and hooking up has never been an issue. Usually they hit quick so it could be timing, or perhaps your using too large of a hook/jig/bait. They have very small mouths usually a 1/4-1/8th jighead sometimes smaller depending on water flow that day with a grub and I usually can fill a stringer fast. 4 pound mono always on that set up.

Although Im sure there are more effictive ways to fish them, there is a small inland lake near me known for crappie fishing and years ago an older fisherman showed me the white and chartreuse grub jig combo and I have slapped the lake every time I have attempted.


fishing user avatarJaderose reply : 

Fulcrums? Archimedes?  Here's an idea...do you think it's fun to use that rod and have you successfully caught fish with it?  Then have fun and catch some fish!

 

image.jpeg.1f8af8f03d0b753ed29a2c4fa80cf014.jpeg


fishing user avatarredmeansdistortion reply : 
  On 5/27/2019 at 9:30 AM, JBT1981 said:

So it seems that (at least after a quick Google search anyway) that most people prefer a 6'+ fishing rod, I have to wonder what uses there are for a 5' UL rod? Ice fishing? 

Shorter UL rods are great for stream trout.  I have a 4'6" and 5' I use when backpacking.  The shorter length makes them very accurate plus they're much easier to navigate the undergrowth with.  




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