Fluorocarbon Or Mono?? 2025

Vanbassin reply :

Hi Guys

I only recently after years of Bass Fishing started using Fluorocarbon Line as I was always using Mono and I have never had a problem with it. I started using fluorocarbon recently, searched the correct knots for it and I bought a decent brand Sunline. It started off well, but after 1 month I have now lost two big fish, I am using 14lb, what am i doing wrong or do you think its the Line?

Tywithay reply :

Did you wet the knots really well when tying? Also, how did you set your drag?

Vanbassin reply :

I Did wet the knots really well as all the videos on the knots suggested it Tywithay. Drag set.... I tightened my drag pretty much all the way, as if not you will also loose the fish due to the spool turning not? And holding the spool is pretty much the same as tightening the drag?

I dont know maybe im wrong, do you think it was the drag? What do you suggest?

Tywithay reply :

Probably the drag if it was tightened down. The line can only take so much pulling before it fails. The fish has to be allowed to run, unless you're using 50lb braid or something. You won't lose fish by them pulling line, unless there's a lot of snags in the area; even then, it's good to have some give because the fish will usually run again when it sees the boat (or bank).

Sam reply :

Did he line snap or did the knot fail?

Please consider checking your line for nicks, cuts, scratches and abrasions by running the line over your thumb nail between your thumb and index finger while your are fishing.

You will be surprised with what you feel.

Cut out the damaged line and retie.

Are you retying after every two or three fish you catch?

Are you using a Palomar or Chinch knot or something else?

14-pound fluorocarbon should not break unless:

1. The line has an unknown damage area.

2. Your knot fails.

3. You point the rod tip directly at the bass in the water.

4. You are using old line that has not been kept in your house out of the weather.

So keep on throwing that Sunline as it is one of the best lines on the market with a price to match and consider my input when fishing.

Good luck.

Senko lover reply :

I wouldn't set my drag all the way with anything less than 50 pound braid. Try backing down a little on your drag and that may help.

Vanbassin reply :

Thanks guys! Sam will def take into consideration what you said, well both of you for that matter. No I do not retie my knot after every 2-3 fish, will try that! But the line snapped. My line is kept in a cupboard in good condition. Maybe i had some nicks or scratches on my line, will double check everytime. I use the palomar knot or the uni-knot.

sprint61 reply :

Yea just check your line for weak spots and you will be fine, it's a good habit to get into.

Poolshark reply :

In my experience fluoro can be a little more sensitive to abrasion than mono. I really am careful to check mine for line damage frequently. When I was starting out with fluoro, I used a relatively cheap brand. I remember one day getting a nasty backlash that had to picked out. I ended up breaking my line on a fish where it was damaged from the backlash. Just a thought. Not sure if it helps at all.

Tim Kelly reply :

I think fluoro is more prone to damage from backlashes than mono, so if you've had a good birdsnest the line can be significantly weakened where the loop has caught itself.

Vanbassin reply :

Hi Guys

Thanks I tried all your suggestions this weekend and what do you know, no breaks!!! Thanks for all the great advise!!

rippin-lips reply :

Good to hear. It's always good when someone updates with their findings. I check my line for any type of rough spot after 2-3 fish. I'll lick my fingers and run it up the line a few feet starting at the knot. If it's fine then I keep fishing or retie if it's damaged. I think retying after 2-3 fish is a bit overkill though. My knot of choice is the Uni.

Turtle135 reply :

I have been fishing with monofilament line since the 1960's. I do not trust flourocarbon. The mystery breakoffs with flouro drive me to drink (I drink enough already). Flouro has some characteristics that I like but the breakage issues from backlashes and during hook sets make for unacceptable performance in my book. There is a reason that the pros change their flourocarbon line after every tournament day. Flouro line is the today's equivalent of the "Emperor's New Clothes".

Angry John reply :

High quality flouro does not do well with the Palomar. It is almost brittle and most people use special knots like the SD jam. Knot wars has great info for tests on utube.

Tywithay reply :

On 1/12/2015 at 12:54 PM, Turtle135 said:
I have been fishing with monofilament line since the 1960's. I do not trust flourocarbon. The mystery breakoffs with flouro drive me to drink (I drink enough already). Flouro has some characteristics that I like but the breakage issues from backlashes and during hook sets make for unacceptable performance in my book. There is a reason that the pros change their flourocarbon line after every tournament day. Flouro line is the today's equivalent of the "Emperor's New Clothes".

"Mystery" breakoffs are a myth. It's widely known that links from backlashes will hurt the integrity of your line, no mystery. It's less prevalent in quality lines. Breakoffs due to knots are user error. I know numerous tournament fishermen that don't change their line that often. I, myself, have a few reels going on 4-5 years without changing line and it's just as strong today.

corn-on-the-rob reply :

On 1/12/2015 at 12:56 PM, Angry John said:
High quality flouro does not do well with the Palomar. It is almost brittle and most people use special knots like the SD jam. Knot wars has great info for tests on utube.

It is my understanding that the palomar AND the Uni do not do well with fluorocarbon. The way the line tightens on the knot and the hardness of fluoro cause it to cut into itself under the right conditions which can cause seemingly random break offs.

I would highly recommend the san diego jam as well, it is one of the strongest and simple terminal knots out there that works on ALL types line well. With fluorocarbon I believe the uni and palomar are in the 70% ABS (absolute breaking strength) range and risks the knot cutting itself while the SD is close to 90% ABS and the wraps set nicely which is huge.

Now I am sure there are plenty of people out there who use palomar and uni "successfully" with fluoro which is fine but in my opinion I'd rather set myself up with the least risk possible especially because the SD jam is an easy 3 second knot once you get it down. I even used the uni-knot religiously (I still love it for braid and I don't use mono anymore) but it just wasn't cutting it with fluoro. Once I switched it was night and day, much more strength and no more odd break offs.

Test it for your self, tie one end to a lure with uni or palomar, the other end to another with SD jam, pull steady or test impact (sudden snap pull), SD jam will win every time.

Vanbassin reply :

Thanks again guys for all the help! corn-on-the-rob, will def try that SD Jam knot!! Turtle135, i am also a strong believer in Mono, always used Mono and never lost a single fish to line breaking or snapping! I will give Flouro the benefit of the doubt but if i keep on having issues with Flouro i will return to old faithfull.

BassSlayer71 reply :

Try using the improved clinch knot. It's a great knot for this type of line. I use it all the time and barely use mono. I've only lost one and it's cause my drag was too tight and I got cocky with the fish.

Vanbassin reply :

Tried the SD Jam knot, nice and easy and works like a dream, thanks guys!!

Shark10 reply :

I have always used mono and have had great success. Knot- uni knot or improved clinch knot

A-Jay reply :

On 1/12/2015 at 1:26 PM, Tywithay said:
"Mystery" breakoffs are a myth. It's widely known that links from backlashes will hurt the integrity of your line, no mystery. It's less prevalent in quality lines. Breakoffs due to knots are user error. I know numerous tournament fishermen that don't change their line that often. I, myself, have a few reels going on 4-5 years without changing line and it's just as strong today.

Unless you're fishing in a vacuum, Mono or Fluorocarbon line really should be changed at least seasonally - and that's pushing it. We spend a good deal of $$$ on many aspects of the sport in the hopes that The Big One might happen by. Not investing in the only connection between you and that dream is really reducing your chances unnecessarily.

A-Jay

Tywithay reply :

On 1/14/2015 at 5:06 AM, A-Jay said:

Unless you're fishing in a vacuum, Mono or Fluorocarbon line really should be changed at least seasonally - and that's pushing it. We spend a good deal of $$$ on many aspects of the sport in the hopes that The Big One might happen by. Not investing in the only connection between you and that dream is a really reducing your chances unnecessarily.

A-Jay

Fluorocarbon does not deteriorate in the elements, the way mono does. It does not break down in UV rays. There's no need to replace it seasonally, unless you like wasting money. I replace my mono line each winter, sometimes multiple times if I feel the need, but never with fluoro. I'm not reducing any chances, because the line maintains its integrity, as long as it hasn't been compromised by a backlash. I only replace my fluoro when I have retied enough times to have my spool underfilled by a good margin. That might take one season, it might take 5; either way, the line remains just as strong and still could go longer.

A-Jay reply :

On 1/14/2015 at 5:21 AM, Tywithay said:
Fluorocarbon does not deteriorate in the elements, the way mono does. It does not break down in UV rays. There's no need to replace it seasonally, unless you like wasting money. I replace my mono line each winter, sometimes multiple times if I feel the need, but never with fluoro. I'm not reducing any chances, because the line maintains its integrity, as long as it hasn't been compromised by a backlash. I only replace my fluoro when I have retied enough times to have my spool underfilled by a good margin. That might take one season, it might take 5; either way, the line remains just as strong and still could go longer.

I am not debating the lines longevity. Frankly, I do not believe the cost justifies the advertised benefits. Additionally, I have not had any miraculous results with fluorocarbon that would justify it use.

But the reason I recommended changing your line out is because there are any number of underwater hazards that can reduce the integrity of your line. Specifically in the middle of or far from your "Knot" that could be a weak point. Standing timber, dock supports, any other type of man made or natural cover we often probe could nick or damage it. So unless you routinely check the entire length of the line you fish as diligently as you check the last 3 or 4 feet, there is a reasonable chance for a reduction in the lines structural integrity.

That's all.

A-Jay

Turtle135 reply :

When I fish down on the tidal potomac river for largemouth it is something of a "contact sport". My line frequently gets wrapped around pad stems, laydowns and dock posts. Usually after two or three full days of fishing down there I will completely change out my line. I would hate to hook the fish of a lifetime and then have a nick in my line be my undoing.

I just save that used line in a box and ship it off once a year to the Berkley Recycling collection center.

Vanbassin reply :

Im torn between the two ,but I will probably go back to Mono, never had a break on it, no issues!!

slainempire reply :

i never use fluoro for the simple fact that i like to change my line quite often and fluoro costs to much for that. on my non-braided line reels i change my line at least once a month during the season, sometimes more depending on how much river shore fishing i do.

Vanbassin reply :

Slainempire, I agree with you,same reason why I use to use Mono.

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Fluorocarbon Or Mono?? 2025

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