which do you all think is better the regular transom saver that braces against the trailer or I had someone tell me that a couple of short pieces of pvc pipe that the motor is trimed down against is better he said they would'nt transfer shock from the road like a transom saver would
Not really sure what you're talking about with the pvc. If the pvc is between the motor and the transom it's not doing anything to protect the transom. The normal transom saver is essentialy making the motor part of the trailer taking all the stress off the transom.
QuoteNot really sure what you're talking about with the pvc. If the pvc is between the motor and the transom it's not doing anything to protect the transom. The normal transom saver is essentially making the motor part of the trailer taking all the stress off the transom.
What jj2 said. Use a REAL transom saver. It's cheap insurance.
I feel the best one is the one you don't use.
I don't and won't use one and that's with a 600 pound motor.
Placing PVC pipe over your trim rods does nothing more than what the motor's built in support will. Actually probably not even as good. The factory support is designed to keep the motor as just the right balance point to keep the stress off the tansome.
I've seen lower units and midsection busted by them. All the shock from a hard bump that lets the boat bounce transfers all that into the motor. I don't car how tight you make you're tie downs, 2,500 pounds of boat and motor can move up and down.
I you use a transome saver with the spring in it, you haven't accomplished anything. The spring is going to let the motor rock as if it were not on a transome saver, just trimmed further down so there is more stress on the transome.
QuoteI feel the best one is the one you don't use.I don't and won't use one and that's with a 600 pound motor.
Placing PVC pipe over your trim rods does nothing more than what the motor's built in support will. Actually probably not even as good. The factory support is designed to keep the motor as just the right balance point to keep the stress off the tansome.
I've seen lower units and midsection busted by them. All the shock from a hard bump that lets the boat bounce transfers all that into the motor. I don't car how tight you make you're tie downs, 2,500 pounds of boat and motor can move up and down.
I suspect those who broke their lower units because they hit a pothole or whatever may have had too much tension in the transom saver.
I've never been told the "proper" amount of tension to put into the transom saver, but here's what I do.
First, secure the tie downs, then install the transom saver. I bring the motor down and get everything lined up. Then I bring the motor down until I notice the bolt in the trailer roller start to bend, then back it off until it is straight.
There is flex in the bolt, the trailer roller, and the four rubber snubbers that grip the lower unit.
I can see where too much pressure, or too much slop in the transom saver could cause serious problems.
The ideal transom saver might be one that has either a coil spring or rubber donut to absorb shock while still reducing the forces on the transom. They call them torque absorbers in race cars and are used to reduce the shock transmitted to the contact patches of the tires during hard braking and acceleration, thus preventing the tires from breaking loose.
My transom saver mounts to a rubber roller on the trailer which provides a little shock absorbtion. I can't imagine NOT using a transom saver.
Definitely a normal one that goes to the trailer. The pvc pipe deal( if I understand you correctly) would not really relieve the stress on the transom.
Actually jj2, your friends way with the PVC is the new thing. Transom Savers are starting to be built like this. It temporaryily mounts under your trim and sits on your two trim pads (or whatever theyre called). I went to buy a new one and the tackle store told me that these new ones actually took more stress off the transom. I dont really understand it, but i do know that it looks alot more like the original mounts on the motor. It has worked for me this year.
Way2slow hit the nail on the head you should never run a transom saver on any outboard or boat ..............
the transom is designed to hold the motor.You think about this watch a video of a boat on ruff water and see how much abuse your motor and transom is designed to withstand Now do you think pulling a boat down the road will be rougher then on the water. use what they put on there from the factory to hold your motor up wile in transit.
After doing some searching on the matter of the "transom" saver, both pro and con I decided to go to the horse's mouth, not the boat manufacturer, but the outboard manufacturer, in my case the Mercury Owner's Manual.
Here, word for word is their input on transom savers. It is in bold letters along with a sketch of a boat on a trailer and a transom saver installed between the trailer and a tilted motor.
IMPORTANT: do not rely on the power trim system or tilt support lever to maintain proper ground clearance for trailering. The outboard tilt support lever is not intended to support the outboard for trailering.
Which brings us to this important question. Does trailering the boat with the motor tilted, and no transom saver installed, void the warranty on the power tilt system?
Another possibility for this disclaimer so to absolve them of liability for damage caused should the tilt system fail while being trailered.
I do agree that the transom absorbs much more abuse during routine boat operation than it experiences while being trailered. But, these boat operating stresses cannot be avoided.
You might want to take a look at the Lock-n-Haul advanced transom savers. I have been using one on my 250 ProXS for a year and a half and it works great. It is the only 4-point inline load motor stow available. It completely stops all movement of the motor which prevents stress on the transom. Since it is not attached to the trailer, road shock is not transferred to the motor or transom.
I like conversations like this. I am new to this forum. I also use the Lock-N-Haul system. The protection is there, the motor stays straight and locked into place. I love the size of the Lock-N-Haul and it is not big and bulky. I just want a unit like this to do its job at an ok price. I cannot imagine someone not being happy with the Lock-N-Haul unit.
I also use the Lock-N-Haul system. When it is in place the motor stays straight and locked into place. I have been using one on my Yamaha 200 for a year and it works great. Take a look at the Lock-n-Haul advanced transom savers.
Never said to use the motors hydraulics to hold motor when towing. I said to use the motors built in tow/stow bracket and manually locks the motor up.
My motor didn't come with anything to keep it up but the trim motor so I use Lock n Haul to keep the pressure off it while in transit.
QuoteI like conversations like this. I am new to this forum. I also use the Lock-N-Haul system. The protection is there, the motor stays straight and locked into place. I love the size of the Lock-N-Haul and it is not big and bulky. I just want a unit like this to do its job at an ok price. I cannot imagine someone not being happy with the Lock-N-Haul unit.
Hey Rob,
You might want to mention you're sponsored by Lock-N-Haul.
Rob, do you have a link to the Lock & Haul. Thanks
QuoteRob, do you have a link to the Lock & Haul. Thanks
It's lock-n-haul. If you had problems searching for it using lock & haul, that's why. Here's the link.
http://www.lock-n-haul.com/
I use a transom saver that attaches to the trailer. I dont see how the Lock n Haul keeps any strain off the transom. The weight of the motor is still there, plus more when you hit a hump in the road. The trailer type doesnt allow any more force than the usual weight of the motor when hitting a hump or bump, the weight is transferred to the trailer, not the transom. Which is the whole point.
I've seen this topic go pages and pages before and it usually ends up 50/50. Maybe someone with a physics degree will come along and drop some knowledge on us.
Scott, great minds think alike. I completely agree with you. Assuming the stern tie-down straps are snug, any significant downward loading on the motor is transferred to the trailer, not the transom. I'm no physicist, but I do have an engineering background. One can argue that there could be an upward loading of the motor if one were to hit a bump, but if the motor is trimmed down and into the transom saver the effect is negligible.
Good post Mike. In my opinion, the Lock n Haul type savers are more attractive to people because they are slightly easier to use and stow away. That was the biggest reason I looked at them. My current trailer style transom saver is about 5 ft long and thats no joke.
I dont doubt that Lock N Haul makes an excellent product, in fact, I know several guys who use them, I just cant see how it works better than a trailer style for 'saving the transom from excess stress'.
All i can say is my boat is a 1992 and i have never used a transom saver on it or the guy that owned it before never did and if you can find on crack around the transom well you will be the owner of a Allison. But thats just me you guys use what ever you want on your boats besides your the ones that bought and paid for them
I got the ole cheapo from wal-mart about 3 years ago. Whether it makes a difference or not i cant say, but it gives me a better feeling of being protected. Its just one of those things that i would rather have regardless of if it actually works or not.
how exactly does the lock system take stress off the transom? From the picture i saw, its taking and just putting a wedge in between the trim cylinders and the lower unit. maybe im missing something though but id rather stick with my conventional transom saver.
QuoteAll i can say is my boat is a 1992 and i have never used a transom saver on it or the guy that owned it before never did and if you can find on crack around the transom well you will be the owner of a Allison. But thats just me you guys use what ever you want on your boats besides your the ones that bought and paid for them
Almost all transoms that ive ever seen have small cracks. The cracks arent bad from what ive been told by mechanics unless they are vertical. if they are horizontal then they are fine. I may have it backwards on which direction is bad though.
QuoteQuoteAll i can say is my boat is a 1992 and i have never used a transom saver on it or the guy that owned it before never did and if you can find on crack around the transom well you will be the owner of a Allison. But thats just me you guys use what ever you want on your boats besides your the ones that bought and paid for themAlmost all transoms that ive ever seen have small cracks. The cracks arent bad from what ive been told by mechanics unless they are vertical. if they are horizontal then they are fine. I may have it backwards on which direction is bad though.
They are likely just stress cracks in the gel coat. The thicker the gel coat, the more likely it will crack when the composite flexes. Since the gel coat does not provide any structural strength to a hull, those cracks are harmless.
However, the gel coat is waterproof. If polyester resin is used for laminating, the composite is not waterproof, and will absorb water. If that moisture is subjected to freezing temps, it will expand, causing damage to the composite.
Any areas that have stress cracks should be sealed periodically with wax or some type of sealant to prevent water from getting to the composite.
If vinylester resin is used, then there is no problem. It is waterproof.
But vinylester is significantly more expensive than polyester resin. Because of that, many boatbuilders use the polyester.
Were I to build a fiberglass boat for myself, or make repairs to a fiberglass boat, I'd use the vinylester and eliminate the possibility of water intrusion.
it must be because it a Allison but there is not one crack of any kind on my boat and about any Allison owner you talk to will tell you the same and the majority of them dont run transom savers all and 90 and newer Allison's have aluminum transoms instead of wood
!I use a MOTO STOP and I am not sponsored!
http://www.basstacklemaster.com/Moto-Stop-transom-saver-p/motostop.htm
Yamaha had a service bulletin #O2008-001 concerning tilt lever support for ALL outboard models. Yamaha suggests using built in support for "service" only and recommends using a transom saver device.
Here are some other alternatives:
http://www.fishingworld.com/ProRule/
http://www.m-ywedge.com/
http://www.lock-n-haul.com/
http://www.durasafelocks.com/products/marine/marine-ts-TS1.html
QuoteI feel the best one is the one you don't use.I don't and won't use one and that's with a 600 pound motor.
Placing PVC pipe over your trim rods does nothing more than what the motor's built in support will. Actually probably not even as good. The factory support is designed to keep the motor as just the right balance point to keep the stress off the tansome.
I've seen lower units and midsection busted by them. All the shock from a hard bump that lets the boat bounce transfers all that into the motor. I don't car how tight you make you're tie downs, 2,500 pounds of boat and motor can move up and down.
I you use a transome saver with the spring in it, you haven't accomplished anything. The spring is going to let the motor rock as if it were not on a transome saver, just trimmed further down so there is more stress on the transome.
Then why do boat manufacturer's recomend and supply them with their boats? I have one and use it won't trailer the boat without it anything else isn't smart. The one I have secures to the trailer's rear center roller and to the motor's lower unit with bungee cords there's just enough give but not to much give. I was told buy the dealer not to depend on the motor lock or power trim as they can fail and drop the motor all the way down and on some boat and trailer combo's that means to the street.
Tight Lines
Pa Angler
I do not have power trim on my motor it is only a 25hp. So i have to use the transom saver. I don't think the tilt tab is enough to keep it up. I do not see how a transom saver can hurt, it is kind of like insurance.
My take is that the term "transom saver" is a misnomer. My Mercury owners manual, and a prior poster said his Yamaha owners manual said not to trailer their boat without the motor tilted up.
Both said not to use the power tilt or the tilt lock to keep them tilted during trailering.
I conclude that it is to protect the lower unit from striking the ground in the down position.
What do the boat manufacturers recommend?
QuoteMy take is that the term "transom saver" is a misnomer. My Mercury owners manual, and a prior poster said his Yamaha owners manual said not to trailer their boat without the motor tilted up.Both said not to use the power tilt or the tilt lock to keep them tilted during trailering.
I conclude that it is to protect the lower unit from striking the ground in the down position.
What do the boat manufacturers recommend?
Neither one takes into consideration the transom of any manufacture's recomendation. A transom saver will keep a motor from striiking the motor on the ground. My manufacture recomends a transome saver.
QuoteBoth said not to use the power tilt or the tilt lock to keep them tilted during trailering.
I conclude that it is to protect the lower unit from striking the ground in the down position.
If a transom saver was used for keeping the lower unit from striking the ground it would be called a 'lower unit saver', not a TRANSOM saver.
A transom saver is meant to keep the excessive weight of the motor from bouncing up and down and putting extra stress on the TRANSOM, causing it to wear out or become weak faster than it normally would without use of a TRANSOM saver.
I'm not sure how the lower unit got brought into this, other than it's the part of the motor that the TRANSOM saver attaches to.
The tilt lock is to keep the lower unit from striking the ground and to keep stress off the trim unit. It has nothing to do with the transom, or the saving of the transom.
if your boat needs a transom saver to keep it from busting up the transom you need to find a better built boat
Quoteif your boat needs a transom saver to keep it from busting up the transom you need to find a better built boat
Oh no! Here we go again. :
Boats are built to withstand a motor hanging on them, no matter what boat brand you have. Obviously, some are better than others. The use of a transom saver is just extra 'insurance'. I own one of the best built boats money can buy but I still use a transom saver. It's a no-brainer.
I guess this is what happens if you dont use a transom saver
Awwwww man looks like the cork got popped on that boat!!
Oh my Lord is that a Ranger? I think this has turned out to be a debate to transome save or not. A motor lock can and has failed as was told to me by my dealer if you to take a chance on one that's up to you but I won't the transom saver is recomended by boat manufacturers now why would they do that if it didn't matter. Seems there are enough opinions on this anyone needing advice on which way to go see what your boat manufacturer and/or dealer recomends. No one can convince me not to use a transome saver. It's up to you don't make a costly mistake.
That happened on the water, not while trailering, that's for sure.
Pretty piece poor construction on that transom. The fiberglass failed at the seam of the center section of plywood.
Tells me someone was skimping on the fiberglass at the critical area that takes all the thrust.
There's no excuse for that type of failure.