New Boat 2024

Quarry Man reply :

As some may know, I started fishing 2 years ago at the age of 14. i am now nearing 17 and have my license. I have learned so much over the years. My family has helped me to purchase a 14' Semi V with a bow mount and no graph or outboard. We also have a 10' Jon that I want to fix up this spring. I love to fish with my grandfather. We recently had an accident and realized that the 14' is too small for both of us. I am 5'10" 150 and he is 6'3" 200.

In the coming year, I want to start fishing bigger water. I plan on getting a bigger boat sometime between next spring or fall. I am going to save up as much money as I can to afford it. What the of boat should I look at? Obviously a big glass boat would be awesome, but I likely can't afford one new. I was thinking of at least a 17 or 18' aluminum or glass boat. Max budget maybe 5k, but that number is subject to change. I have no idea if i will have more or less than that. I want something that is clean, reliable and can get me on bigger water safely.

slonezp reply :

Since you are fishing with your grandfather, a boat he can sit/stand in rather than on may be the best choice. Maybe a used 16ft Lund Rebel or Fury

MickD reply :

Good idea on the used Lund, but they are rare. I sold my 2000 Monark 16 foot single console deep V earlier this year for $6K. 50 HP Suzuki 4 stroke, a bullet-proof engine. A boat like that would do you nicely. Buying used has the risk of getting a leaker or a less-than-perfect engine, so be careful. Check the service records, if none, beware. Check for hull damage.

slonezp reply :

On 12/17/2017 at 10:06 PM, MickD said:

Good idea on the used Lund, but they are rare. I sold my 2000 Monark 16 foot single console deep V earlier this year for $6K. 50 HP Suzuki 4 stroke, a bullet-proof engine. A boat like that would do you nicely. Buying used has the risk of getting a leaker or a less-than-perfect engine, so be careful. Check the service records, if none, beware. Check for hull damage.

My dad is one of the primary reasons I bought a Lund. He can sit and fish, there's room for him to move around a little, and room on the floor for him to put his gear rather than him having to get on his knees to take his tackle out of a storage locker. Also safer for him when nature calls. He pee's in a coffee cup and dumps it in the lake rather than risk losing his balance, standing on the deck, peeing off the side of the boat. The Lund has seating for 4 so he can sit on either side of the boat when we are fishing docks. If I had 3 across like a bass boat, he'd be stuck fishing on the port side, and that would leave me less options trolling the bank, especially on windy days.

moguy1973 reply :

I’m going to be Debbie downer here and say save your money, get a good education, get a good job and then you can afford what you really want. Having a boat is great but it’s just a hole in the water that you throw your money in. Make sure you can afford one before you buy one.

MickD reply :

On 12/17/2017 at 10:35 PM, slonezp said:

He pee's in a coffee cup

Give him one of those hospital urine jugs for Christmas, would be a real step up for him.:-)

NHBull reply :

On 12/17/2017 at 10:35 PM, slonezp said:

My dad is one of the primary reasons I bought a Lund. He can sit and fish, there's room for him to move around a little, and room on the floor for him to put his gear rather than him having to get on his knees to take his tackle out of a storage locker. Also safer for him when nature calls. He pee's in a coffee cup and dumps it in the lake rather than risk losing his balance, standing on the deck, peeing off the side of the boat. The Lund has seating for 4 so he can sit on either side of the boat when we are fishing docks. If I had 3 across like a bass boat, he'd be stuck fishing on the port side, and that would leave me less options trolling the bank, especially on windy days.

The exact reasons I got the impact 1775..... But I can still pee of the boat as long as have one hand on the motor ????

A-Jay reply :

On 12/18/2017 at 4:27 AM, NHBull said:

The exact reasons I got the impact 1775..... But I can still pee of the boat as long as have one hand on the motor ????

I do not recall seeing that particular featuring in the brochure . . .important though

A-Jay

Swbass15 reply :

Take a look on Craigslist, boat trader and other sites to see what prices are running on boats you might be interested in. You never know what you might find out there. Then once you save your money and find your boat take it to a mechanic. I learned the hard way on this, pay to have them inspect and see what works must be done to it. That will give you a good starting point.

fishnkamp reply :

First thing please answer a few simple questions.

What state do you live in and tell us what type of water is available for you.

Do you want to fish small rivers, ponds, small to mid sized lakes or big lakes?

slonezp is correct, a deeper Vee boat may be best for you from a safety point of view, especially if you are going to fish bigger and faster water. He is a great source of knowledge on the Lund boats. The downside to a Lund is finding one in your budget, however there are other good deep v boats that may be available cheaper, perhaps a good Alumacraft, Lowe, G3 etc even an old Grumman deep V as my friend Kris found a few years ago.

Now if you want to fish slower moving water ( read safer to handle) such as small to mid sized lakes, slower running rivers ponds, reservoirs etc, than my suggestion is to look for a 17to 18 foot aluminum bass boat. These will be easier to find in your price range. I would stay away from fiberglass as your first real boat. A 17 foot aluminum with a 40 to 75 is an ideal first boat. These boats will be called a "mod V" boat and the 17 to 19 foot boats will have more beam and stability. Obviously Tracker is the most recognized brand, but Lowe, Alumacraft, G3, and many other manufacturers make these boats. Look for boats like these from Craigslist.

https://allentown.craigslist.org/boa/d/bass-boat/6429356149.html

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/boa/d/bass-tracker-tx17-tournament/6421940849.html

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/boa/d/power-boat-with-trailer/6421936258.html

My wife and I have fished out of tiny little 12 foot jon boats on reservoirs, several 15 and 17 foot aluminum mod v aluminum bass boats and several fiberglass rockets ships. I have caught as many fish out of our 4 different aluminum bass boats as I have out of the fancy fiberglass, however the maintenance on the fiberglass is much more involved.

Here is what we currently have. It is a 17 1/2 foot Lowe bass boat. It is now powered by a 75 hp Mercury outboard. It runs in the high 30's to low 40's, is quite stable and we have fished on reservoirs, big 60 mile long lakes and fast moving tidal rivers including the Chesapeake Bay.

Junk Fisherman reply :

On 12/18/2017 at 12:31 AM, moguy1973 said:

I’m going to be Debbie downer here and say save your money, get a good education, get a good job and then you can afford what you really want. Having a boat is great but it’s just a hole in the water that you throw your money in. Make sure you can afford one before you buy one.

I disagree with this. As long as you are not financing a 25K boat, saving up and buying a modest, used boat is fine. Get the boat, learn how to rig it and do your maintenance and enjoy the time you fish with your grandfather. I bet you look back in 20 years and realize that your fondest memories with your grandfather were the times you spent fishing. You'll have moved on to a 20' fiberglass bassboat with all the bells and whistles but you'll reminisce about catching all those bass out of your 18' tin boat you had.

With all that being said, obviously moguy is right about getting a a good education and a good career to afford the boat you want in the future. But saving up and buying a reasonably-priced used boat does not derail that plan. Hell, boats that we are talking about do not significantly lose their value from one year to the next. So you buy a 10-12 year old Tracker or some comparable boat and if needbe you sell it and get back most of your money. This is not a risky idea. Just make sure that you get the motor checked out and don't finance anything. Good luck.

Troy85 reply :

I'd start with aluminum, they are generally cheaper to buy and easier to maintain and clean(as far as the hull is concerned). They are also lighter than glass, so its easier to launch and you have more options as far as what vehicle is needed to tow it.

Aluminum bass boats are become more popular and they have several different models and sizes to choose from, they don't ride as nice as an equivalent glass boat, but they will ride better than a regular aluminum jon boat.

J Francho reply :

Look for a 16' deep-V tiller. That's going to be affordable, safe, easy to maintain, and will serve you for years. It'll also be comfortable for your grandfather. My dad (68) loved fishing out of my deep-V tiller, but hated my bass boats. He in fact would not set foot in my Bullet.

Troy85 reply :

Can I ask why one would refuse to set foot in a Bullet? I'm honored just to have one blow past me on the water.

Quarry Man reply :

well I'm back in business, so i now have a high paying job for a 16 year old, maybe this dream will be closer to coming true after all...

J Francho reply :

On 12/22/2017 at 3:48 AM, Troy1985s said:

Can I ask why one would refuse to set foot in a Bullet? I'm honored just to have one blow past me on the water.

He doesn't like the speed, and the way a pad-v hull feels when it's up on plane. He was used to old school deep-v wood and glass boats.

Fishing Rhino reply :

On 12/22/2017 at 3:48 AM, Troy1985s said:

Can I ask why one would refuse to set foot in a Bullet? I'm honored just to have one blow past me on the water.

Maybe they didn't have a change of undies.

Quarry Man reply :

Where is the best place to buy an aluminum boat? Also do I get a boat like the rt188 or a semi v?

Troy85 reply :

I bought my first aluminum boat from a private seller, and I bought my second one from a used boat yard. I don't see any problem with buying a used boat as long you thoroughly check it out. Open every hatch, check all wiring and hoses, you can usually tell if someone has done routine maintenance or not. Take it for a test ride, this is a must, don't buy it, unless you can test drive it first. Also, if its a newer engine and its possible, have a diagnostic test run on the engine. This can tell you how many hours the engine has and if there are any problems detected by the ECM(There could be issues that the ECM doesn't detect, but its better than not running diagnostics at all). Lastly, don't get pressured into buying it if you don't love it. It can be tough to say no(for me at least), after having used up someones time doing a test run and everything, if you see something you don't like about the boat, don't buy it.

As far as hull type goes, I would base that on your budget vs the type of a water you fish. If you fish a lot of big water that can get rough, you may want a hull type that can better handle some chop. That's the main reason I upgraded, I got tired of fighting waves in the 17' G3.

Quarry Man reply :

On 12/26/2017 at 11:08 PM, Troy1985s said:

As far as hull type goes, I would base that on your budget vs the type of a water you fish. If you fish a lot of big water that can get rough, you may want a hull type that can better handle some chop. That's the main reason I upgraded, I got tired of fighting waves in the 17' G3.

https://allentown.craigslist.org/boa/d/gbass-fishing-boat/6407776115.html

what do you think? Not get ng this one, haven't even looked at it in person, but is this kind of what i want?

fishnkamp reply :

That is a nice hull and to redo the seats will not cost that much. The 20 on it will get you around and was probably chosen to meet the restrictions on some of the PA lakes.

That would do well for you if the rest of the boat is in good shape. Later on if you decided you wanted to get more hp I would go talk to Barb at Lakeside Marine in Harrisburg PA. She sells the G3 boats and Yamaha engines. Often times she has good used ones. I have been dealing with her for decades and she has always taken care of me and my friends

I was not sure what part of Northeast USA you were in.

Troy85 reply :

That hull looks nice, looks similar to the hull I have on my Xpress. It should have a nice ride. As stated above, the 20 will get you around. The closest new model I could find from G3 was the Sportsman 16, which has a max HP rating of 70. So if you aren't pleased with the 20, you have plenty of room for a motor upgrade(just check the coast guard plate to see what the max rating is if you check the boat out). Low hours on the motor are good, and its a 4-stroke, so you shouldn't have a ton of maintenance issues(other than routine maintenance). Just check it out thoroughly, leave no hatch unopened haha.

Also, I don't know what state you live in, but make sure you know whats required as far as title, registration, notary rules for the boat and trailer. If your state requires a boat title, and the owner doesn't have one, the boat is worthless.

Further North reply :

On 12/18/2017 at 12:31 AM, moguy1973 said:

I’m going to be Debbie downer here and say save your money, get a good education, get a good job and then you can afford what you really want. Having a boat is great but it’s just a hole in the water that you throw your money in. Make sure you can afford one before you buy one.

On 12/21/2017 at 7:52 PM, Junk Fisherman said:

With all that being said, obviously moguy is right about getting a a good education and a good career to afford the boat you want in the future. But saving up and buying a reasonably-priced used boat does not derail that plan. Hell, boats that we are talking about do not significantly lose their value from one year to the next. So you buy a 10-12 year old Tracker or some comparable boat and if needbe you sell it and get back most of your money. This is not a risky idea. Just make sure that you get the motor checked out and don't finance anything. Good luck.

Regarding getting a good education and a good job...

IMO, we send way to many people to expensive colleges (way, way to expensive!) that leaves the kids in debt up to their fannies and competing for jobs that pay nowhere near enough to be be able to start a family, get a home, and fund their hobbies...so they go deeper into debt...

There are other ways of "getting an education" than college. Plumbers, electricians, builders, etc. all make great money, so do lots of other trades. The guys that run our presses make good money, and the ones that want them have boats, ATVs, campers and cabins up north and most will retire comfortably (unless they do dumb things with their money, there's no cure for that)...and didn't start life $50K in the hole...

Culturally, we have turned the trades into "dirty" jobs for the most part...and that's a shame.

**********************

On the "hole in the water" aspect of boat ownership: I've never experienced that...but I buy smart, take care of my stuff and make sure I'm well insured. Sure, it's an expense, but my boat maintenance costs a lot less than my car maintenance...

Junk Fisherman reply :

On 12/31/2017 at 7:52 AM, Further North said:

Regarding getting a good education and a good job...

IMO, we send way to many people to expensive colleges (way, way to expensive!) that leaves the kids in debt up to their fannies and competing for jobs that pay nowhere near enough to be be able to start a family, get a home, and fund their hobbies...so they go deeper into debt...

There are other ways of "getting an education" than college. Plumbers, electricians, builders, etc. all make great money, so do lots of other trades. The guys that run our presses make good money, and the ones that want them have boats, ATVs, campers and cabins up north and most will retire comfortably (unless they do dumb things with their money, there's no cure for that)...and didn't start life $50K in the hole...

Culturally, we have turned the trades into "dirty" jobs for the most part...and that's a shame.

**********************

On the "hole in the water aspect of boat ownership: I've never experienced that...but I buy smart, take care of my stuff and make sure I'm well insured. Sure, it's an expense, but my boat maintenance costs a lot less than my car maintenance...

I couldn't agree more with you. I work in education yet I don't blindly recommend going to college to everyone. Have you seen the financial analysis of the electrician versus the doctor? There is also one about working for UPS versus becoming a doctor. Lots of great careers out there that do not require a 4-year college degree. And don't even get me started on people that "have to" go to a 4-year university and live away from home and take out loans that they'll be paying off till they're 40. Or the number of people who earned degrees in a field where there are few jobs. When my kids get to that age, we'll be making some wise decisions.

Quarry Man reply :

I am pretty sure that I want to get a Ranger RT188. My friend and his dad have the 2015 model and they love it. They use it on the Delaware River with a 115 HP Mercury. I really like the design, the storage looks great, and it appears to be the perfect size, not too small for bigger water, and maybe a tiny bit big for my local lakes, but I can still get away with to just fine, or use my other boat. I only have a limited amount of tackle and rods, so It will hold everything just fine. The boat will also open up more opportunities to fish bigger water, and fish with others, like my grandfather more comfortably. Now, I have a few questions:

1 - What features/upgrades do I need/want? I am looking at trailer brakes, boat cover from ranger, trolling motor, graphs, tie downs, on board chargers, and all that stuff. I have no clue what to get.

2 - What motor? Although I would love the fastest and biggest motor, is it worth the money to get a 115? I could get a 90 0r 75 and save some money. Also do I need those extra MPH, I don't fish big tournaments yet, but will likely do so in college.

3 - How do I make $15k? in less than a year? Right now, I am focusing on school and wrestling. Come spring time, I am going to get a part-time job and save up. As of right now, I shovel snow, babysit, when possible. I also make apps for small companies, which pays well, but we are dealing with issues right now. I hope to have the boat by the summer, but I am prepared to work very hard and save all my income if I need to. I am fortunate enough that my grandfather also loves to fish. With our last boat, he was willing to pay for half of the boat.

4 - Are there similar boats that I should consider? Although I really like the Ranger, I would also like to see my other options

5 - How do I drive a bass boat? Is there any advice you have for me?

6 - When is the best time to buy? I am planning on buying from a local marine store, and getting it customized to my liking. I will have the money by late summer hopefully.

fishnkamp reply :

First you will need to save your money as you have said.

The features question has endless answers, but I have owned 11 fishing boats in 42 years of bass fishing so I will share a little of what I learned doing it..

Here would be my most important features:

A 24 volt trolling motor and 3 high reserve AGM marine deep cycle batteries. You will be fishing some tidal water and will need that as a minimum. I would forgo the fancy painted trailer and go with a galvanized trailer. It will not look as pretty, but if you intend to fish places like the Delaware river and the Upper Chesapeake bay you will encounter tidal water and that has salt in it. It will rot out a painted square tube trailer in a few years, and it does it from the inside out. Road Armor coating do not help. Have them install side boards to help in capturing the trailer easier when loading in heavy current. Tidal water is almost always moving and rarely helpful when at the ramp.

Trailer brakes is a luxury and safety item on a light weight boat like this. This is very dependent upon what your tow vehicle is. My Lowe does not have brakes on its trailer, but it could have. I tow with a big enough truck I did not need them. My 20 foot Pro Craft fiberglass bass sat on a tandem axle trailer and had a 200 Merc on it. It was big and heavy. It had to have brakes on it.

The on board charger is a must for me. I prefer a 3 bank, but I have a 2 bank on this boat, mostly due to space. Ask to have an external A/C plug installed. It makes it so easy to just lift the cap and insert your extension cord. For the motor, I usually say to go with the biggest possible. The top speed is not the only aspect that the full HP affects. It will make getting on plane quicker, and if you are cruising part throttle you will get better fuel economy since you will be working the engine less to maintain mid range speed. If you decide to go with less HP never go below the 90 on that boat. Boat Buckles are worth every penny. I would look at some of the newer engine supports that only mount on the motor. Motor totters that connect to the trailer are just old technology and not the best idea. I run a Motor Mate but you would have to see what model fits your engine.

Electronics depends on what you can afford at the time and what brand you prefer.

I can not help with how to earn the money, we all have that problem!

How do I learn to drive my bassboat? Now that one I can help with easily. From your posting I figure you should be about 1 to 1 1/2 hours from the Upper Chesapeake Bay-Susquehanna Flats. If sometime this spring or summer you are willing to go fish the Northeast River and Susquehanna Flats I would be happy to meet you there and teach you how to launch, load, drive and fish from my boat. They are very similar boats.

When to buy depends on when you have the money. Show season can provide an opportunity to gat a deal, however I would be looking at the used market too and that requires I pay attention to what some dealers and craigslist has to offer.

Quarry Man reply :

On 1/3/2018 at 12:02 AM, fishnkamp said:

First you will need to save your money as you have said.

The features question has endless answers, but I have owned 11 fishing boats in 42 years of bass fishing so I will share a little of what I learned doing it..

Here would be my most important features:

A 24 volt trolling motor and 3 high reserve AGM marine deep cycle batteries. You will be fishing some tidal water and will need that as a minimum. I would forgo the fancy painted trailer and go with a galvanized trailer. It will not look as pretty, but if you intend to fish places like the Delaware river and the Upper Chesapeake bay you will encounter tidal water and that has salt in it. It will rot out a painted square tube trailer in a few years, and it does it from the inside out. Road Armor coating do not help. Have them install side boards to help in capturing the trailer easier when loading in heavy current. Tidal water is almost always moving and rarely helpful when at the ramp.

Trailer brakes is a luxury and safety item on a light weight boat like this. This is very dependent upon what your tow vehicle is. My Lowe does not have brakes on its trailer, but it could have. I tow with a big enough truck I did not need them. My 20 foot Pro Craft fiberglass bass sat on a tandem axle trailer and had a 200 Merc on it. It was big and heavy. It had to have brakes on it.

The on board charger is a must for me. I prefer a 3 bank, but I have a 2 bank on this boat, mostly due to space. Ask to have an external A/C plug installed. It makes it so easy to just lift the cap and insert your extension cord. For the motor, I usually say to go with the biggest possible. The top speed is not the only aspect that the full HP affects. It will make getting on plane quicker, and if you are cruising part throttle you will get better fuel economy since you will be working the engine less to maintain mid range speed. If you decide to go with less HP never go below the 90 on that boat. Boat Buckles are worth every penny. I would look at some of the newer engine supports that only mount on the motor. Motor totters that connect to the trailer are just old technology and not the best idea. I run a Motor Mate but you would have to see what model fits your engine.

Electronics depends on what you can afford at the time and what brand you prefer.

I can not help with how to earn the money, we all have that problem!

How do I learn to drive my bassboat? Now that one I can help with easily. From your posting I figure you should be about 1 to 1 1/2 hours from the Upper Chesapeake Bay-Susquehanna Flats. If sometime this spring or summer you are willing to go fish the Northeast River and Susquehanna Flats I would be happy to meet you there and teach you how to launch, load, drive and fish from my boat. They are very similar boats.

When to buy depends on when you have the money. Show season can provide an opportunity to gat a deal, however I would be looking at the used market too and that requires I pay attention to what some dealers and craigslist has to offer.

Thanks as always for the help. I would love you take you up on your offer. That would be an amazing learning experience for me! i was thinking of Just getting the basic needs to get me on the water "now" and maybe upgrading "later". Here is what I mean: Boat, best motor, trailer brakes, manual backplate, cover and retractable tie downs. I Want to add a better trolling motor, electronics, and a second console when I have the money. i am constantly scanning craigslist for great deals, so you are right on. What do you think about a manual jack plate? Is it necessary, not really sure what it does, but heard it helps. As far as graphs, I want to have a better one for vertical fishing for trout and walleye, which i do a lot up north. I have no clue if side imaging is worth it. Looking at the hds 7 by lowrance in the bow

http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Lowrance_HDS-7_Carbon_Fishfinder_Chartplotters/descpage-CAR7X.html

looking at the Garmin echo map for gps mainly at the console.

I am not sure if you can do this, but adding a second console later? I think it is worth the money because my co angler will be more comfortable and it also looks very nice.

thanks again!

Sam reply :

Quarry, as you can read, there is a lot involved with the purchase of a used bass boat.

You are from the "northeast" which does not give us a specific area and since you need to match your bass boat with your fishing conditions it would be helpful if you would add your physical location and waters you fish the most to your avatar and to this post.

May I suggest reading all of the above posts and then realize that the hull should be in good shape so you need to focus on the motor.

Safety is also a factor. The longer the boat (say 20 to 21 feet) the safer you will be in heavy water, like the Great Lakes or the New York lakes.

Do your homework and understand that now is a good time to consider purchasing a boat. You could wait a month and find even better deals.

Good luck and let us know what you purchase.

Quarry Man reply :

On 1/3/2018 at 8:44 AM, Sam said:

Quarry, as you can read, there is a lot involved with the purchase of a used bass boat.

You are from the "northeast" which does not give us a specific area and since you need to match your bass boat with your fishing conditions it would be helpful if you would add your physical location and waters you fish the most to your avatar and to this post.

May I suggest reading all of the above posts and then realize that the hull should be in good shape so you need to focus on the motor.

Safety is also a factor. The longer the boat (say 20 to 21 feet) the safer you will be in heavy water, like the Great Lakes or the New York lakes.

Do your homework and understand that now is a good time to consider purchasing a boat. You could wait a month and find even better deals.

Good luck and let us know what you purchase.

Sam,

You make several very good points! I will do my best to answer them in the following.

Buying a Boat

As previously stated, buying a boat is a very complicated process. I consider myself a smart consumer. I will only be buying a boat in full and if it is exactly what i want. I do not want to regret this purchase. If I do not have sufficient funds for the boat I want, I will not be getting one. Thanks to everyone here and their generosity, this process is much easier.

Location

I am very fortunate to have several homes. My primary residence is in Chester County, PA. I also have a lake house in the Pocono Mountains of PA. Lastly, my family sort of has a cabin in Eastern Massachusetts that we spend a lot of time in during the summer. I also have many family friends with access to different bodies of water, but Ill go in more depth later.

At home, I have a few electric only lakes nearby. I also have the Delaware River nearby. I mostly just pond fish, so I am not really in my boat at home much, though I have fished the Delaware and it is a lot of fun.

At my lake house, I am on a 75 acre electric only lake. My boat might be overkill on that, as half the lake is under 6' deep. There are however many smaller and a few larger lakes that would allow for a bigger boat. There are also HP restricted lakes too. I spend most of my time on a boat here. The abundance of decent lakes makes for a lot of fun.

In MA, many of the lakes are deep open and very clear. I fish for bass, trout and walleye there. The lakes range from 100 acre "ponds" to 25,000 acre reservoirs. These lakes get rough when it is windy, but I am not there much and won't go out, because my current boat is too small for that.

Several of the other lakes I plan to fish are:

Lake Hortonia

Lake Bomoseen

Lake George

Lake Champlain

Table Rock Lake?

Smith Mountain

Susquhenna River

Newfound Lake

Lake Erie

Lake Ontario

Onondaga Lake

Finger Lakes

Oneida Lake

As you can see, I want to fish a lot of bigger water, and will need a b9gger boat, but most of my time will be small trips to local lakes.

Safety

Safety is my utmost concern

Thanks Again!

Logan S reply :

Couple additional thoughts for you since you've got some good advice already.

On an AL bass boat a jackplate is really not as big of a deal as it would be on a glass rig. If a boat has it installed already, great, but if not I wouldn't really worry about adding one. I also wouldn't worry about trailer brakes on this size boat unless you are towing with a small vehicle. If the boat will be stored outside, a good cover is a must-have. Small items like retractable tie-downs are standard on many boats now, but they are also pretty inexpensive comparatively so these would be a non-factor to me - can be added later.

For graphs, whatever brand you choose, I would make sure both/all are the same brand for networking purposes. Being able to share waypoints, maps, transducers, etc between the console and bow is a very nice feature to have. This also means getting models that have ethernet/network ability since some brands like Lowrance have models that don't have this ability. You'll want a decent screen size, like a 7-size or bigger, at the console for navigation/mapping. For sonar tech, that really depends on how much you want to spend and what your goals are. I personally wouldn't be caught without the full array of SI/DI/2D sonar, but I have some friends that are content with without SI or even DI because they fish differently than I do.

Some people like second consoles, some don't. I hate them personally, they take up more room and don't really offer any meaningful protection (other than maybe a placebo effect) for the co-angler. It also limits floor space for a co-angler's bag/stuff.

Being safe is all about making smart decisions on bigger water and in rough conditions. I have several friends with AL boats, including a couple with Rt188's, they all fish the same waters I do and don't have problems...We have big water around here with the Potomac and Chesapeake too. They just make good decisions on those days when the weather turns. Those good decisions are really just common sense things like "don't run out to the main river when the wind is kicking" .

Sounds like a 17 or 18 foot AL bassboat is a good choice for you. I took a similar path in that I started working early (at 15 ) with the goal of buying a boat. I ended up with a 17' Tracker and it suited me well for many years....As soon as I turned 16 I started fishing tournaments as a boater did so for many years out of that little boat before upgrading to glass. It was limiting in certain ways, but I believe it made me a better fisherman in the long run.

Quarry Man reply :

Here is the message that I sent to my local ranger dealer. Am i missing anything?

In the near future, I would like to purchase an aluminum bass boat. I am considering the Ranger RT188 , but am open to other suggestions. I am only 16, and will be working very hard until I save up the money to buy my first bass boat. I hope to have the money by next fall. I am not certain that this is a realistic goal, but I am prepared to do everything in my power to purchase this boat. I am interested in several upgrades. I also have several questions as well.

First of all, will the Ranger RT188 be a good fit for medium to large lakes and rivers in up to semi-rough weather. I do not plan on fishing Lake Ontario in the middle of a storm, but I do want to open up and start fishing the bigger water bodies nearby. I have been told that I can maximize fuel efficiency by purchasing the biggest engine rated for that boat. The Ranger Rt188 is rated for a 155 horsepower engine and I plan on getting the Mercury® FourStroke 115ELPT Pro XS Command Thrust. My friend has this same setup and loves it. I am also interested in purchasing the boat with the "necessities" and upgrading/purchasing the other stuff later on when money is less tight. I Was thinking of getting upgraded aluminum wheels, trailer brakes, a painted spare, trailer tie downs, a boat cover, and lastly a 70 lb thrust Minn Kota Edge. In the future, I would like to add a front deck step, second console, an extra rod strap, and console/bow electronics. Can I purchase the boat and make the additional upgrades later? I do a lot of vertical fishing in Northern lakes, so having a good fish finder is useful. also, I might need a GPS for larger lakes and making waypoints. What graphs do you recommend for this? Finally, this will be my first boat with an outboard, and I have heard that a jack plate is helpful, nut I am not certain what its use is. Is having a manual jack plate necessary?

Thank you for your time, I realize that you are likely very busy. I appreciate your response. I am beyond ecstatic at the chance of purchasing a bass boat in the near future!

On 1/3/2018 at 10:59 AM, Logan S said:

Couple additional thoughts for you since you've got some good advice already.

On an AL bass boat a jackplate is really not as big of a deal as it would be on a glass rig. If a boat has it installed already, great, but if not I wouldn't really worry about adding one. I also wouldn't worry about trailer brakes on this size boat unless you are towing with a small vehicle. If the boat will be stored outside, a good cover is a must-have. Small items like retractable tie-downs are standard on many boats now, but they are also pretty inexpensive comparatively so these would be a non-factor to me - can be added later.

For graphs, whatever brand you choose, I would make sure both/all are the same brand for networking purposes. Being able to share waypoints, maps, transducers, etc between the console and bow is a very nice feature to have. This also means getting models that have ethernet/network ability since some brands like Lowrance have models that don't have this ability. You'll want a decent screen size, like a 7-size or bigger, at the console for navigation/mapping. For sonar tech, that really depends on how much you want to spend and what your goals are. I personally wouldn't be caught without the full array of SI/DI/2D sonar, but I have some friends that are content with without SI or even DI because they fish differently than I do.

Some people like second consoles, some don't. I hate them personally, they take up more room and don't really offer any meaningful protection (other than maybe a placebo effect) for the co-angler. It also limits floor space for a co-angler's bag/stuff.

Being safe is all about making smart decisions on bigger water and in rough conditions. I have several friends with AL boats, including a couple with Rt188's, they all fish the same waters I do and don't have problems...We have big water around here with the Potomac and Chesapeake too. They just make good decisions on those days when the weather turns. Those good decisions are really just common sense things like "don't run out to the main river when the wind is kicking" .

Sounds like a 17 or 18 foot AL bassboat is a good choice for you. I took a similar path in that I started working early (at 15 ) with the goal of buying a boat. I ended up with a 17' Tracker and it suited me well for many years....As soon as I turned 16 I started fishing tournaments as a boater did so for many years out of that little boat before upgrading to glass. It was limiting in certain ways, but I believe it made me a better fisherman in the long run.

Thank you for the thoughtful response. I could not agree more with what you have said.

fishnkamp reply :

I thought that was the area you were located in and you are in deed about an hour and a half from the town of North East MD. There is a great marina there called Anchor Marine. That river feeds directly into the Susquehanna Flats.

That is where we will meet and you will gain enough experience in one day to help answer many of these questions.

I posted a picture earlier in this thread of my 17 1/2 foot Lowe Stinger 170. It is very similar to the Ranger 178. I first set that boat up with a special jack Plate and a 25 HP Merc in order to fish Lake Marburg in Hanover PA. I lived about 30 minutes from it back then. Once we moved to the RT 95 corridor, I exchanged that motor out for its current 75 Merc.

I have a 788 Hummingbird up front and a Lowrance Elite 7 at the console. It currently has a MK Maxumm 70 on the front deck and a bunch of other goodies. I am about to exchange that trolling motor for a Mk Terrova with I pilot. These are high end pieces. For your use a 70 Maxumm or even an Edge would be fine.

slonezp reply :

Kudos to you. At 16, all I was worried about was getting laid. Best time to buy used is in the fall. best time to buy new is in the spring, buying last years leftovers and taking advantage of manufacturer discounts. Promotions on graphs and trolling motors usually happen right around the first of the year as well. As far as the rest of your questions, you hold the answers.

Second, laying all your cards out on the table with the Ranger dealer may not be the wisest thing to do. I would highly recommend you get an adult who has negotiated deals on cars or boats to go with you during the buying process. There is some skill required to not get screwed. You should rig your boat the way YOU want, and not with what the dealer tells you, you need. They are in business to make a profit and your wants/needs will take a back door to the all mighty dollar. When you are financially ready to pull the trigger, come back here for a refresher.

If you can understand basic electricity, can turn a screwdriver and operate a drill, you can do a basic electronics installation and save hundreds of dollars. Buying "last years" technology rather than this years can save you hundreds of dollars if not more.

The size and weight of the RT188 doesn't justify the additional expense of the trailer upgrades as long as you have a big enough tow vehicle. If you want fancy wheels, you can buy them aftermarket for about $80 a piece and you can get the ones you want, not the ones that Ranger offers.

If you don't know what a jackplate is, why do you think you need it?......The gains from the added expense will be minimal at best on this hull. Save your money

Quarry Man reply :

On 1/3/2018 at 2:34 PM, slonezp said:

Kudos to you. At 16, all I was worried about was getting laid. Best time to buy used is in the fall. best time to buy new is in the spring, buying last years leftovers and taking advantage of manufacturer discounts. Promotions on graphs and trolling motors usually happen right around the first of the year as well. As far as the rest of your questions, you hold the answers.

Second, laying all your cards out on the table with the Ranger dealer may not be the wisest thing to do. I would highly recommend you get an adult who has negotiated deals on cars or boats to go with you during the buying process. There is some skill required to not get screwed. You should rig your boat the way YOU want, and not with what the dealer tells you, you need. They are in business to make a profit and your wants/needs will take a back door to the all mighty dollar. When you are financially ready to pull the trigger, come back here for a refresher.

If you can understand basic electricity, can turn a screwdriver and operate a drill, you can do a basic electronics installation and save hundreds of dollars. Buying "last years" technology rather than this years can save you hundreds of dollars if not more.

The size and weight of the RT188 doesn't justify the additional expense of the trailer upgrades as long as you have a big enough tow vehicle. If you want fancy wheels, you can buy them aftermarket for about $80 a piece and you can get the ones you want, not the ones that Ranger offers.

If you don't know what a jackplate is, why do you think you need it?......The gains from the added expense will be minimal at best on this hull. Save your money

Thank you for your thoughtful response. I plan on buying electronics for the best deal i can get, so your advice is very valid. Also, i like the idea of installing the aftermarket stuff myself, as long as i am able to do so effectively. I will be using my dad's new Ford F150 when i can, But usually my Fj Cruiser will be used the most. Is that too small to go without brakes? I planning on driving a lot with it, not just to local waters. Do you think they are necessary?

CroakHunter reply :

On 1/4/2018 at 4:19 AM, Quarry Man said:

Thank you for your thoughtful response. I plan on buying electronics for the best deal i can get, so your advice is very valid. Also, i like the idea of installing the aftermarket stuff myself, as long as i am able to do so effectively. I will be using my dad's new Ford F150 when i can, But usually my Fj Cruiser will be used the most. Is that too small to go without brakes? I planning on driving a lot with it, not just to local waters. Do you think they are necessary?

Your fj would pull and stop that boat/trailer/gear just fine without trailer brakes if you drive with sense and remember you have it back there.

Quarry Man reply :

On 1/4/2018 at 5:40 AM, CroakHunter said:

Your fj would pull and stop that boat/trailer/gear just fine without trailer brakes if you drive with sense and remember you have it back there.

ok thank you, that was one of the questions i hadn't answered yet. what about covers for driving an using while the boat is in the water ad it rains?

CroakHunter reply :

On 1/4/2018 at 11:36 AM, Quarry Man said:

ok thank you, that was one of the questions i hadn't answered yet. what about covers for driving an using while the boat is in the water ad it rains?

Covers I have 0 information on. But if you are fishing in the rain I would think the boat would have a bilge pump, if not, a small electric pump from harbor freight, wired to alligator clamps hooked to a small 12volt battery works great. Its what we use in my buddies 18 ft jon boat and also use it to fill our portable live well. As far as driving in the rain, we pull the plug as soon as the boat exits the water and leave it out until we take off the straps to launch the boat. Just make sure if you have water in the boat and you take off driving with the plug out thinking you are draining the water, remove all debris that could stop up the drain hole. We flipped my friends boat and trailer going about 20mph around a curve because it was still full of water due to a few zoom lizards plugging the drain hole. But once it flipped over, all the water came out very fast lol.

slonezp reply :

On 1/4/2018 at 11:36 AM, Quarry Man said:

ok thank you, that was one of the questions i hadn't answered yet. what about covers for driving an using while the boat is in the water ad it rains?

Travel covers and mooring covers will be an option from whichever manufacturer you go with.A travel cover is for anytime the boat is on the trailer. A mooring cover is if you store the boat on the water. You can also have custom covers made for about the same price as you will pay for the factory option. Custom cover should last longer.

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