I took my boat to a different lake today (actually caught a few, woohoo) and the ramp was very shallow. What I mean is that it had very little angle to it. So little that I had my trucks front tires in about 4 inches of water. That's when I noticed it. To get my boat to float, I have to get the trailer too far in the water. I've owned a few boats before and usually you get the trailer in the water up to the top of the wheel wells or so to get the boat off the trailer. My current boat, I have to get the trailer in the water about 8 to 10 inches over the fenders to get the boat off the trailer. This isn't a problem on steeper ramps but this was the first time I tried to launch on a shallow angle ramp.
I noticed that on the springs of the trailer there is an extension from the rear of the spring to the mount on the trailer. Two pieces of metal where the bolts go thru the spring and the mount.
Is this supposed to be there to let the spring expand or contract or has that been added by some previous owner to make the trailer taller and can I take it out to make the trailer sit lower on the axle?
What kind of boat and trailer do you have. Got a picture?
Here are a few pix of the boat and a pic of the bracket. I'm assuming the bracket is supposed to be there otherwise the spring would not be able to flex.
The boat is an older Trophy bass boat with the stock trailer.
Any ideas???
Hmm, How do I attach mulitple pics????
Here is one of the boat.
Thanks.
That bracket is supposed to be there. it makes your leaf springs have travel in them. If it was bolted to the frame instead of that bracket your springs wouldn't have any travel and your trailor would bounce all over the place when you hit a hole
Yeah, that's what I figured. I can't lower anything on the trailer to get the boat to sit lower without having the fenders hitting the boat so I guess it's just something I'll have to live with.
Having to get the trailer so far in the water isn't a problem when I have a fishing partner but when I'm alone, I either am going to get wet or I'll need a pair of waders.
Anyway, thanks for confirming that for me.
Well i have a tip for unloading your boat. Me and my uncle do this all the time. You can say that i'm by myself unloading the boat really cause all he does is sit in it and tell me when it's floatin. What you do is when your on the ramp get a good roll going (down the ramp not up) and hit yours brakes hard. This will make your boat waant to slde down the runners making the boat go further into the water rather than the trailer
Yes, that's how I do it if I have another person around. Just back it in, let it float off, pull out and park the truck. The problem I have is that I go out fishing by myself most often so I don't have the luxury of a driver. I have to back the trailer down, get out of the truck which is my now deep in the water, get the boat off the trailer, pull the truck and trailer out, park the truck and get back in the boat. I get pretty wet when I'm alone on a shallow angle ramp. I was just hoping there was a better way to do this but apparently not so I'll just get some hip waders or get wet.
Your boat is sitting higher on that particular trailer style than a typical drive on style trailer which has the boat bunks lower within the trailer frame. Not much you can do with that type of setup. If you said you would be launching at really shallow ramps all the time I'd probably suggest you buy a different trailer.
what about maybe going with a wider drop axle, and then moving the fenders? you'd have to get a longer drop for your hitch too, then....
Well, that's definately an idea. I'm wondering if it's worth the price and effort on a boat I only paid a grand for????
What would an axle like that cost a guy?????
the site i nabbed that pic from had them for $116 w idler hubs up to 95" wide...but i can't immagine the shipping would be too pleasant. Maybe see if you have a redneck trailer, or that type of store nearby and get them to give you a quote.
http://www.trailerpart.com/35kdroptraileraxle.htm
you would have to be sure you aren't creating any other problems by doing that first, though...ya know?
If you have a Northern Tools store near you, they have the asles in stock but I think about 2 1/2" drop is all they carry. If you could find a 4" or 6" drop it would make a world of difference but before getting too excited about using a droped axle, trim your motor down with the trailer level and see how much clearance you have from the bottom of the skegg to the ground. I personnally would be a little uneasy about not having enough clearance that I could not trim the motor all the way down on the trailer. Eventually, you would make a mistake and break the skegg off and damage your prop. That would totally ruin your day.
I really don't have much room to lower it. As it is I only have maybe 3 inches with the engine down so if I lower the trailer, I may not have any room left if I forget to raise the motor. I'm usually pretty good about that but there is always a first time and yes that would totally ruin my day so I guess I'm just stuck with the way it is. If I go to shallow angle ramps, I'll just pack some hip waders with me and call it good.
In any case, I'm having a blast with my boat and my feeble attempts at bass catching. I'm great at bass fishing but pretty horrible at this point actually catching but it's still lots of fun. If I get frustrated, I grab my ultra-light and catch a few trout and I feel much better.
The water temps are still pretty cold here in Oregon so when it warms up another 5 to 8 degrees, I'm sure I'll have a great time.
All is well.
There is a solution to getting your feet wet all the time when launching your boat.
Several years ago when I bought my first Tracker bass boat there was a manual with it that had a procedure for launching a boat by yourself. I fish by myself 99% of the time and I don't usually get my feet wet coming or going.
Get a launch line that is at LEAST 2 1/2 times the length of your boat. Tie it off to the bow eye (I have a snap hook on mine) and Tie the other end off on the front bumper bracket on your trailer or if there is a catwalk/post at the ramp tie it off there. Once the boat floats off pull out and untie from the bracket and moor the boat and go park or if its on the post just go park the trailer.
You might have a need for the waders getting it back on the trailer at the end of your trip but at least you will leave with dry feet.
Shortbasser
Wow! Great suggestion. I'll definately implement that simple idea. Why didn't I think of that??? Goes to show ya how smart I am. lol.
Thanks.
I never have to step off into the water, then again I crawl over my vehicle like spider-man or something. It's also easy for me tho because I have a pickup....if you have an SUV, just open the backdoor and crawl on through =) You will look like an idiot but atleast be dry.
I can't tell from the pictures but are your axles mounted on the top or the bottom of the spring. If they are on the bottom of the spring you can simply mount the axles to the top of the leaf spring to drop the clearance down about 4 inches. It's a old trick we used to do in reverse on CJ8 Jeeps to gain a little more ground clearance.
Hope it helps,
Bill
I tie my boat to the front of the trailer (I lay the loose rope on the front deck to let it come off as it gets tight) and float it off as well, then get out, get the rope, pull the boat over to a dock and tie it off. If your boat slides easy, you can do as I've seen others do and just back up to where you stay dry and give the boat a shove with your hands. Still have to have it tied to your trailer or hold the rope. If it don't slide easy and you want it to, just go fishing and before you leave re-cover the bunks with a slicker material. You can actually unload the boat with the trailer halfway in the water like that depending on how low in the water it sits.
BIG TIP: If you make it where your boat will slide easy off of the trailer, DO NOT UNTIE IT BEFORE YOU BACK IN! Sounds simple I know but a friend of mine fixed his dad's boat where he could push it into the water, but his dad was used to floating it off and untied it before he had gotten all the way to the water and ended up sliding it onto the cement ramp. >
Yes, I have seen a boat come off a trailer before. I was waiting to launch one day and some kid borrowed his fathers boat, untied it at the top of the ramp and promptly watch it slide off the rollers onto the corregated concrete ramp. (the trailer had rollers, not carpeted rails)
Needless to say, he was in big trouble as it was a pretty expensive boat. He was scared to death.
I like your idea about the rope. I'll definately use that and I know the lake that I use that idea will work just fine.
As far as where the axle is placed???? Yes, it's already on top of the springs so it's as low as it's going to go but thanks for the advice.
What a great site this is and a great bunch of people here. All the suggestions are a big help and I appreciate everyones imput. Now all need to figure out is how to actually catch something. Be the highlight of my year I'm sure.
I've seen those rollers but never seen anyone using them. That would be the way to go if you wanted to push a boat in. BTW, the fella that dropped that boat loves it now. He backs up to where the back of the trailer is just in the water and gives it a push. He just keeps the boat hooked on front till it is there
I agree, this is a great site!
Do a search for 'Trailer bunk slides'
They might help.
I would look at those bunks. Can you lower them, Also check the carpet maybe somebody put house carpet on the bunks and it doesn't slide so good.
Garnet
Wouldn't the easy solution be to flip your hitch?
I have a bumper hitch and also a receiver style hitch. I've tried it every way. My trailer is just a pain with a shallow angle ramp. I might try those sliders mentioned above. Might make it a bit easier. I'm hopeful anyway.
QuoteI have a bumper hitch and also a receiver style hitch. I've tried it every way. My trailer is just a pain with a shallow angle ramp. I might try those sliders mentioned above. Might make it a bit easier. I'm hopeful anyway.
I just remembered what the guy I mentioned before actually used on his dad's trailer. The magic mover type things you can get at wal-mart that you put furniture on so you can slide it around easily. Cheap and works like a charm. Just be sure to get the type that have a round center (I think they have a rubber center on the ones my friend used). Then again the rectangle one may work as good or better :-/
If its just an issue with having too much of your trucks backend in the water (you mentioned having the front in 4") lift the truck.
I usually walk the trailer tongue to load mine by myself. Because of that, I used a grip tread tape from 3M on the tongue. Keeps me from falling in.
You could try a smaller trailer tire as well, or better yet, you and I can swap boats and I will live the problem
Thanks for the response and I appreciate your generous offer. Unfortunately, I kinda like this boat considering I got it for practically nothing.
I think what I'll do is just live with it. I'm going to get some of those slippery bunk things and call it good.
Anybody have any experience with these????
If i remember correctly those trailers are welded bracketts that the bunks sit on. If you raised the front just 2 inches it would lower the back a lot. Don't think a welder would charge that much.
Garnet
The brackets aren't welded, they are bolted so I could adjust them slightly if needed although the way this trailer is made, raising the front won't lower the rear, it just raises the front which will just make it harder to load and unload I think????? If I lower the rear, the fin will hit the ground if I forget to bring the motor up. I've alread done that once when I got gas. I have to lower the motor to pump gas into this because the filler is just in front of the motor so I can't put the fuel nozzle in unless I lower the motor completely. I mixed the oil and gas, paid the attendant and drove off only to feel the skeg hit the ground going out of the station. I only have 3 inches or so clearance when the trailer is level so I can't forget to bring the motor up.
I'm checking into the bunk sliders. They aren't that much and with those and a good pair of waders or tall boots, I'll probably be just fine but if there are more suggestions, I'm open to anything.
If you can wait till it is in the water to lower the motor you shouldn't need the waders unless your boat just sits lower in the water than the depth of the water is. I hope it's not, it'd work out good for ya, just need the sliders and a long rope. Let us know how it does for ya.
Kevin
Hi Kevin,
It's sits in the water just fine. I'll get the sliders, a long rope AND the waders just in case.
I took my ex-girlfriend/girlfriend/ex-girlfriend/girlfriend/ex-girlfriend/girlfriend/ex-girlfriend/girlfriend/ex-girlfriend (long story for a completely different thread) fishing last week. I figured even though she never drove a boat, that I'd back the trailer in the water and she could just inch it up the trailer, shut down the motor and I'd pull out.
She floored it and ran the boat almost into the bed of the truck. lol. It was halarious. It was so far up the trailer that the lower end of the motor got stuck on the trailer bunks. I will never know how it didn't damage a thing but I'm glad it didn't. Didn't even scratch the boat. The eye where you hook the winch to was almost touching the back window of my canopy on the truck. I had to back the truck into the water almost to the doors to get the boat to float enough off the trailer to get it unstuck.
Lesson learned. I'll just get wet if need be next time. The waders would have come in handy.
All is well.
hahaha, great story! I went fishing with my boy one day and put him in the back of the truck, then I got the boat (big motor wasn't working or something) lined up on the trailer with the trolling motor and threw a rope to him so he could pull me on up till I could reach the winch and hook it. Made that six year old think he was superman to pull the boat up on the trailer