Went and bought a Hobie Compass yesterday. Already struggling with loading. I have been loading kayaks on SUVs for years with no problems. I put the bow on the back of the car and slide the kayak up into the racks. However, the Compass is the first yak I have had with a rudder fixed underneath...the rudder doesn't stow on top. I can no longer rest back of yak on the ground and just lift bow into the back of the SUV. I may try same method with the yak upside down, but even that may damage the rear handle. Any suggestions?
On 1/5/2019 at 9:58 PM, Choporoz said:Went and bought a Hobie Compass yesterday. Already struggling with loading. I have been loading kayaks on SUVs for years with no problems. I put the bow on the back of the car and slide the kayak up into the racks. However, the Compass is the first yak I have had with a rudder fixed underneath...the rudder doesn't stow on top. I can no longer rest back of yak on the ground and just lift bow into the back of the SUV. I may try same method with the yak upside down, but even that may damage the rear handle. Any suggestions?
Load it from the cart or use an upside down milkcrate to "jack" the Stern/rudder of the ground
Can you load it stern first?
Thanks, @GeekFisherand @redmexican5081. I have considered both, but haven't tried either yet. Will practice today.
Id try the milk crate idea. Id take a jig saw, and cut a slot in the bottom of the crate. Just big enough for the rudder to slide into. A small bungee cord to hold the crate in place? If it would hold tight,your could just leave it on,till you get to your spot. Or maybe a piece of a pool noodle,bungeed over the top and bottom of the rudder ?
Edited by KDW96 buy a trailer...you will thank me later lol
or just lift it up...it's more technique than brawn. I was able to load my ATAK on the roof rack of my lifted Jeep Wrangler once i figured out the balance point of the boat which is rarely where the handles on the side are.
I looked at trailers, but didn't find any that are small enough to man handle around to back of town house and fit through gate and in tiny backyard; and still sturdy enough for confidence on highway.
I worked at it yesterday for a couple dry runs. It wasn't pretty, but for now, upside down is the way to go.
I'm disappointed in the the side 'handles'....all the handles for that matter. Wildy has spoiled me ..lol.
@KDW96, I think you may be on to a potential solution....an attached cushion around the rudder so I can lift up on stern without worry would be real nice...assuming I can do that reliably with the handles.
Hope to get more practice today since the weather may allow a shakedown cruise.
This might help if you load your kayak stern first:
On 1/6/2019 at 8:15 PM, Choporoz said:I looked at trailers, but didn't find any that are small enough to man handle around to back of town house and fit through gate and in tiny backyard; and still sturdy enough for confidence on highway.
I worked at it yesterday for a couple dry runs. It wasn't pretty, but for now, upside down is the way to go.
I'm disappointed in the the side 'handles'....all the handles for that matter. Wildy has spoiled me ..lol.
@KDW96, I think you may be on to a potential solution....an attached cushion around the rudder so I can lift up on stern without worry would be real nice...assuming I can do that reliably with the handles.
Hope to get more practice today since the weather may allow a shakedown cruise.
There are quite a few trailers that meet that criteria but they are pricier than your harbor freight specials for the most part but they are specifically made to carry toys.
I have a https://www.sportsrig.com
many have https://www.yakima.com/rackandroll-66-trailer
another option is https://www.rackwarehouse.com/malone-micro-sport-kayak-canoe-bike-cargo-trailers.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA68bhBRCKARIsABYUGid9-PmBoh1RcnOqMTZfjzC375A3KQxezYOz3S0nutMX95fmzSdD4yoaAg12EALw_wcB
and yet another https://www.trailex.com/products/pc/home.asp
Now I know personally or have used the sportsrig and the Yakima trailers and they are definitely suited for highway use and are easily maneuvered around by hand. I tow mine with a mini cooper countryman and after getting it in my driveway i unhitch and walk it into the backyard through a gate.
Was one of the best purchases I have made.
Another possibility is this one. It's rated for PWCs, but with a little work can be used for kayaks or canoes. It's the one I'm getting for my canoe,
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612542_200612542
https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612543_200612543
This is the size I built mine, minus my tongue is way longer. Can give you my plans if you want to.
On 1/7/2019 at 12:54 PM, GeekFisher said:https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612543_200612543
This is the size I built mine, minus my tongue is way longer. Can give you my plans if you want to.
I'm a bit lazy - so getting one with bunks already included is a plus. Though I am going to get some steel tubing to extend the length of the tongue. I have done metal work, just not welding- drilling and tapping, so it'll be an insert-tube bolted to both sections to secure it.
On 1/7/2019 at 1:02 PM, MN Fisher said:I'm a bit lazy - so getting one with bunks already included is a plus. Though I am going to get some steel tubing to extend the length of the tongue. I have done metal work, just not welding- drilling and tapping, so it'll be an insert-tube bolted to both sections to secure it.
I'd just buy a correct lenght square tube instead. Eyeballing it should be around 9 feet 2x2 square tube, 1/8th should be enough. My tongue is 2.5x2.5 and would I have to do it again, I'd go with 2x2.
On 1/7/2019 at 1:07 PM, GeekFisher said:I'd just buy a correct lenght square tube instead. Eyeballing it should be around 9 feet 2x2 square tube, 1/8th should be enough. My tongue is 2.5x2.5 and would I have to do it again, I'd go with 2x2.
So 10 gauge - I just checked some prices and 10' of that isn't that much more than 4' plus a 2' insert. Maybe I'll go that route instead of building an extension. Under $50, and I can still do the drilling - I got the tools for that.
Thanks for the tip - sometimes I try to make things more complicated than they should be.
On 1/7/2019 at 1:14 PM, MN Fisher said:So 10 gauge - I just checked some prices and 10' of that isn't that much more than 4' plus a 2' insert. Maybe I'll go that route instead of building an extension.
Thanks for the tip - sometimes I try to make things more complicated than they should be.
10 gauge is .120 but often sold as 1/8th. 0.005 shoudn't make a difference since it should notre carry much more than 240lbs. Just make sure it's really 2x2. Mine is not an harbor freight since i'm in Canada and no HF here sadly ????
On 1/7/2019 at 1:19 PM, GeekFisher said:Mine is not an harbor freight since i'm in Canada and no HF here sadly
This isn't HF either - local metal supplier, this is 2x2 structural steel.
On 1/7/2019 at 1:22 PM, MN Fisher said:This isn't HF either - local metal supplier, this is 2x2 structural steel.
I meant my trailer base isnt an HF one so I can't attest for sure that the HF small trailer I linked has a 2x2 tongue, I eyeballed it. Its the same "Deck" size than mine and my Deck size was originally based on a Malone kayak trailer crossed with a standard PWC trailer for tongue lenght. I've been pleased with the results. I realised afterwards that HF had the same deck size in kit and northern tools even have the aluminium version of it
On 1/7/2019 at 1:26 PM, GeekFisher said:I meant my trailer base isnt an HF one
Ahhh - well, as I said, I'm lazy. So getting a 9' length at the local steel shop won't be hard. If I wasn't so lazy, I'd get everything I needed to scratch-build the trailer and save some money, but I set aside enough for the trailer and an extension, and this way will be cheaper than buying a pre-made extension.
Also, if that helps, my trailer has a 14' total lenght. The pwc trailer is 10'6", the other smaller one I linked is 6'6". A trailer is great to carry multiple boats but I still prefer jeep-toping mine when I am on my own. No rudder on my good ol' Catch 120 though and I built a load bar out of pvc so loading it is a breeze.
On 1/7/2019 at 1:35 PM, GeekFisher said:Also, if that helps, my trailer has a 14' total lenght.
I'll probably get 10', make it a bit longer - my canoe is 14'.
Advantage is that I don't have to unload anything out of the canoe. Bring it home and hand-wheel the whole thing into the garage.
I understand that ! My Jeep is my fishing vehicle so I don't need to unload my fishing gear or the kayak. I daily commute with an econobox to work since the ol Jeep is thirsty. I made an overhead fishing rod carrier inside the Jeep so everything is ready to go when needed. If I feel like going fishing after work, I just leave home with the Jeep in the morning I'm adding a teardrop camper to the fishing possibilities for next season ! Planned on a roof rack on the camper as well. I promised my girlfriend I was a normal guy 6 months per year, from November to April lol, the rest of the year I'm fishing as much as I can
As for your trailer, I highly recommend at least 14' total lenght as it's easier backing up. You will probably not see it in the side mirrors since too narrow and maybe not in the rear mirror especially when backing up after the fishing Day since no boats will be on it. That being Said, I aint the best in town to back-up trailers. Ymmv !
Mine also has a rudder but i just unload it the way you used to . the rudder is flexible enough where it doesent stress it out where things might break. seems like asking for trouble but ive been doing it for a few years now.
I load my Compass stern first, whether into the bed of my pickup, or roof of the Matrix. It was awkward at first, but you'll get the hang of it.
Congrats on the new boat!
On 1/8/2019 at 2:34 AM, J Francho said:I load my Compass stern first, whether into the bed of my pickup, or roof of the Matrix. It was awkward at first, but you'll get the hang of it.
Congrats on the new boat!
You're correct. Ty. I will get the hang of it...just a little panicky at first. Got it up and down twice yesterday (upside down) without too much difficulty. (Windy day, though and it wasn't pretty yet.)
No fish yesterday, but good 4+ hours of acclimation. My hips and hamstrings are cursing me today.
Glad you joined the Hobie team, @Choporoz! The Hobie Compass will soon be a part of my kayak fleet too, I want one for quick trips and to have a second boat for my lady.
After a solid amount of time of constant pedaling, you lose the soreness. I also added a laaaarge amount of muscle to my legs, which will undoubtedly help you load and unload the boat as time goes on.
Resurrecting this because my news feed alerted me to a new player in the cartopping space. Cool enough idea, though not a lot more economical than the Hullivator. (About a month after this thread, I 'stole' my wife's Hullivator and have been using it since.....so much better than any other method, I'd figured out.) This one looks cool, but may not have helped my particular situation a whole lot:
https://newatlas.com/ez-rec-rack-kayak/60168/
(The link has a video when I use my phone...no video on desktop....weird)
On 1/6/2019 at 9:00 PM, DogBone_384 said:This might help if you load your kayak stern first:
This^^ is a cool idea.
On 6/24/2019 at 5:00 AM, Paul Roberts said:This^^ is a cool idea.
A cheap or old rubber backed bath mat works as well and is easier than using a strap like he does
I use a rubber-backed memory foam mat that rolls up. Works like a charm for my Nucanoe Frontier 12
On 6/24/2019 at 7:12 AM, VolFan said:I use a rubber-backed memory foam mat that rolls up. Works like a charm for my Nucanoe Frontier 12
Isn't the friction of sliding the kayak burning the foam?
No - theres a thin cloth-like covering. Look at Costco for kitchen mats or stanging mats.
Congrats on the Hobie. You're going to love that thing!
Wonder if something like this would make load/unload easier.
I have a Compass. I car top and load it bow first like Flukemaster's video and just put a rolled up sleeping bag under the stern to protect the rudder. Works like a charm.