Let's get a drop shot thread going. Tell us the where's, when's and how's of the drop shot. I know originally it was intended to be dropped straight down into schools and fished vertically but I've been hearing about people casting the drop shot and just working it back horizontally.
I hardly ever throw it and work it back, I'm strictly a 'watch the depthfinder and drop it' kinda fisherman. Am I missing something by not casting it and retrieving horizontally?
Go.
You absolutely are. I am shorebound and therefore do not have the luxury of fishing the DS purely vertically. Yet, from the shore and working it back, I find it to be very productive.
Take a look at my post in the outings section of how DS saved my bacon from going home skunked.
I wrote an article on it and here is an excerpt from it:
"The Drop Shot technique has been so effective for me even though it is my first season learning and using it. It has accounted for 100% of the smallmouth bass and about 70% of the largemouth bass I have caught this season, and I caught a lot, the most ever!!! And here is the thing that makes this even sweeter. They were all caught from the shore. No, this is not a testament to my skills, but a testament to the effectiveness of the Drop Shot technique."
shorebound = non vertical use of drop shot for me. 8-)
Should be a good technique to try around those docks on SML.
Im a shorebound fisherman as well... I use the drop shot horizontally with good success. Typically I fish local city lakes in So Cal (they get pounded pretty good) and finesse approaches are needed to get some of these fish to bite. My setup is 7' MF Vendetta with a Quantum Incyte 20 and 6# Trilene XL. Normally I use about a 10-12" leader to the weight. I use this length for worms because of the fact that I am fishing horizontally with it, it keeps the worm up off the bottom, and above any weeds or grass. Fairly recently I have been shortening the leader to about 3-6" and putting a handpoured craw and slowly working that has produced a few good sized bass for me.
FBL, I cast it like at Texas rigged worm and it works great.
I throw it to the shore and bring it back to the boat.
One must stop it along the way and let it flutter as it returns to you.
Catch a lot of fish in this manner on Virginia lakes, rivers and ponds.
QuoteLet's get a drop shot thread going. Tell us the where's, when's and how's of the drop shot. I know originally it was intended to be dropped straight down into schools and fished vertically but I've been hearing about people casting the drop shot and just working it back horizontally.I hardly ever throw it and work it back, I'm strictly a 'watch the depthfinder and drop it' kinda fisherman. Am I missing something by not casting it and retrieving horizontally?
Go.
Maybe something like this?
The overwhelming percent of fish I have caught using the drop shot have been caught swimming/drifting the drop shot.
I started off letting it drop straight down, and twitching/jigging it very slightly.
I began experimenting with casting and retrieving and drifting the drop shot, and my catch went up dramatically.
I would think that if you were over a school of fish, and maintained your position, the standard drop shot method would produce great numbers. But I have never found such gatherings in the places I fish.
So, I developed, what works for me, a method of "swimming" the drop shot. It is particularly effective on grassy or weedy bottoms. I set the distance between the sinker and hook according to the height of the vegetation.
I want to snag the vegetation occassionally, but not constantly. The trick seems to be to keep the bait in the water column at the height of the plants.
I use 6 pound fluoro with twenty pound fluoro leader and a swivel. Primarily because of pickerel.
I like the stretch of the fluoro. It reduces the input of twitching the rod to the bait.
I let the weight of the rod do the work. I hold the rod loosely, and give it a slight horizontal flick to get it moving. Then I allow the rod to move on its own, flex and spring back in my hand.
The stretch of the line and the flex of the rod causes the bait to move/flutter/twitch very little, but it's enough.
I'll twitch the rod perhaps 12 times to gain a couple of feet. Reel in the slack, and begin again.
On windy days the drift is fast enough across shoal areas surrounded by deeper water, or anywhere fish tend to hold.
I've also, forgive me, tried trolling the drop shot when I'm in a lazy mood, using the same method of retrieval. It works very well too.
This may be a stupid question but what dictates using a drop shot over a carolina rig?
Working it back horizontally is all I ever knew & I find it very effective pitching to bald spots in grass flats.
I like to dead stick a drop shot in shallow water. I just let my bait settle to the bottom and then give it an occasional twitch or hop. The drop shot weight ensures that the bait keeps falling to the same spot. If I don't get a bite, I'll slowly drag it (like a Carolina rig) a few feet and start over. I'll repeat this all the way back to the boat. Most of my bites are subtle and occur while the bait is sitting on the bottom.
I have no doubt that tossing the drop shot will work. I've done it myself on many occasions when shore bound. Very effective presentation regardless of where or how you use it.
That being said, I don't see the advantage of using the drop shot as a drift or cast presentation from a boat (being mobile); only because there are just as many other ways of drifting & casting that are as effective and sometimes even more so. Take for example a simple jig & plastic combo, crankbait, jerkbait, etc..
However if you want to maintain a specific distance above the bottom, the DS certain does that well enough. I still believe that the most effective presentation is still using it vertically - unless I'm fishing shallow (<10'). JMO.
QuoteThat being said, I don't see the advantage of using the drop shot as a drift or cast presentation from a boat (being mobile); only because there are just as many other ways of drifting & casting that are as effective and sometimes even more so. Take for example a simple jig & plastic combo, crankbait, jerkbait, etc..
I think that a lot of times it is effective simply because you're showing the fish something different.
QuoteQuoteThat being said, I don't see the advantage of using the drop shot as a drift or cast presentation from a boat (being mobile); only because there are just as many other ways of drifting & casting that are as effective and sometimes even more so. Take for example a simple jig & plastic combo, crankbait, jerkbait, etc..
I think that a lot of times it is effective simply because you're showing the fish something different.
I agree with Bird dog, the fact that the presentation is different is what makes it more effective at times than other, more commonly used, presentations.
I've been having great success casting DS rigs from my kayak. Even though most of the areas I fish are very weedy (hydrilla, milfoil, coontail, etc.) I find the DS very effective because of the ability to raise and drop a lure without moving it very far or at all.
I'll use a DS rig in almost all the same ways I would fish a T-rig or C-rig. You can even bulk up the gear for a "power shotting" presentation, as they call it, and use the DS rig in heavy cover. It's an excellent alternative to pitching jigs and worms around tree stumps, again because of the ability to give the bait plenty of action without it leaving the area. With a little experimentation the DS rig has added itself to many of my softplastic presentations. I even use it for inshore saltwater fishing with the same results, and that's in water mostly three feet deep or less.
http://www.richz.com/fishing/blog/?page_id=552
Quotehttp://www.richz.com/fishing/blog/?page_id=552
That is indeed the most in-depth article to be had on the subject. I've read it several time in the past. Thanks for posting it! Very value-added.
Anytime you want to keep a plastic bait in one spot, while adding some action, the drop shot rig is the way to go. Try a long drop line, heavier than usual weight, like 3/8 oz, and cast so the sinker lands beyond a bedding bass. let the bait fall on slack line. As things "cool down" slowly lift the line, and gently wiggle the bait in the nesting bass's face.
Works like a charm:
The drop shot rig is just a new variation of an old technique. The way it's fished can also be varied to match different situations. Fishermen who try different things, usually catch more fish.
I have only used a drop shot a handful of times and I really like it, especially on windy days. I like to Keep the worm 18-24 inches from the weight, just over the vegetation on the bottom. I'll lightly jig the worm a few times taking care not to move the sinker, then give it a harder jig/pull after a while to move the sinker and start over.
I was using a drop shot today to bed fish for smallies in 5-7 feet of water.
I'd just cast it into the bed and shake it until it got bit.
I've only just using the drop shot on a consistently this year....but I really like it
i like to flip it
anybody out there that does the majority of their shotting on casting gear?
Dropshotting is a staple for the high pressured city lakes here in so. cali..
Five bass limit,
I also fish Smith Mtn a lot. Drop shotting is probably my most used technique there. All that clear water and high pressure from fishing and boat activity. I can often fish the back of the boat with my partner throwing cranks or something else and clean up.
Especially around all those docks up there.
I like to start with the first dock post and work my back.
QuoteI like to start with the first dock post and work my back.
Interesting. When fishing docks with a drop shot, do they get bit on the initial fall or after the weight hits bottom and you shake it around a bit?
Also, anyone use the SWL Recoil Rig?
QuoteThis may be a stupid question but what dictates using a drop shot over a carolina rig?
not stupid. from my experience a carolina rig helps you cover a wide surface area better, more of a locator rig. apparently that's all down the toilet now though cause these guys are talkin about fishin a DS horizontally, which is great, i'm just used to droppin it down and fishin it within the close vicinity of the boat. also a drop shot suspends your lure off the bottom and above grass for example like Rhino mentioned, closer to the bass's field of vision. a worm gets better action suspended off the bottom, the bottom stops it from moving as much
Quoteanybody out there that does the majority of their shotting on casting gear?
I only have dropshotted with my casting gear.
Also, I prefer to fish the drop-shot horizontally, per the OP's original question.
I really like to cast a dropshot where I normally fish under a bridge. One thing I sometimes do, if I have the right baits with me, is to make a long cast with a Gene Larew Long John that is nose hooked dead straight and use a slow retrieve with some pauses and small jerks. It keeps the bait up just a bit from the bottom. Sometimes it's hard to keep good contact but I find it very effective the few times I have done it.
Pitching it to laydowns and docks with a 1/4 oz. weight and 8 lb. flourocarbon has been most productive for me.
Ive learned that a DS can be very effective. Its my "go-to" when I cant get bit on anything else.
I normally strip line the length of my arm,and tie the hook there(maybe its a little long but it works for me)
When I fish it,Ill cast it out,let the weight hit the bottom. Ill then begin lightly yo-yo'ing my rod tip. If that doesnt work,ill drag it,stop,drop my rod tip so the bait flutters to the bottom. Wait a few seconds and snap the line up,making sure you keep the sinker on the bottom.
Yesterday I noticed something neat. I was Using a DS and the sinker got stuck in some boulders on the bottom.I pulled and pulled trying to get unstuck. I tie a slipknot on my sinker for just such an occasion.
Once the sinker slid off the line and the line was free(weightless),I had a fish just SLAM the bait.
The fish mustve just been there watching the bait the whole time waiting for it to move,It came loose with a jerk,and then the fish attacked it.
Alot of times,I wont even feel the fish. Just more weight than usual. I set the hook and "FISH ON!!"
As far as a horizontal presentation,ive been told if you fish from the bank,that the bait(if using a worm) will appear like a baitfish feeding on the bottom as it climbs up the depths incline back to the bank.Ive pictured it and it makes sense
If you are not using braid mainline, you are cheating yourself.
QuoteIf you are not using braid mainline, you are cheating yourself.
x2
Since switching to a braid mainline, it is like a whole new world.
FBL,
I use this technique a lot at lake Anna and I know for sure it will work at SML.
I do a couple of different versions when bringing it back to the boat I will pick it up and let it fall all the way back with a pause in between and a couple of twitches or I will add some nervous twitching while its falling.
You have got to try the way everyone says they do it it's a great technique and yields some really fun fishing!!!
I cant agree more...It really is alot of "fun fishing" using a Dropshot.
Ive caught every species of fish in my home lake on a DS. Trout,Bass,Green Sunfish,Bluegill and Hybrid Sunfish.
QuoteFBL,I use this technique a lot at lake Anna and I know for sure it will work at SML.
I do a couple of different versions when bringing it back to the boat I will pick it up and let it fall all the way back with a pause in between and a couple of twitches or I will add some nervous twitching while its falling.
You have got to try the way everyone says they do it it's a great technique and yields some really fun fishing!!!
Yeah, I'm sure it works being casted but I just cant bring myself to do it. I always throw the carolina rig in those situations. I might cast a drop shot one day but for now, I think I'll just keep dropping it......straight down. (I'm hard-headed)
QuoteQuoteFBL,I use this technique a lot at lake Anna and I know for sure it will work at SML.
I do a couple of different versions when bringing it back to the boat I will pick it up and let it fall all the way back with a pause in between and a couple of twitches or I will add some nervous twitching while its falling.
You have got to try the way everyone says they do it it's a great technique and yields some really fun fishing!!!
Yeah, I'm sure it works being casted but I just cant bring myself to do it. I always throw the carolina rig in those situations. I might cast a drop shot one day but for now, I think I'll just keep dropping it......straight down. (I'm hard-headed)
Dropshotting is my third favorite technique. I cast it probably 90% of the time. Just sayin... ;D
FBL,
You really need to convince yourself to try this I know I had a hard time grasping it myself but it really does work!!
I will tell you one other thing I did try and that is tying a 12 to 18 inch leader to where your hook normally is on a drop shot...as the weight falls the bait falls away from the line and gives the bait a more closer appearance to that of it being weightless and I have had some really great fishing especially at the 208 bridge on that point there with this technique and it also works really good down at dike 3 where the current is strong coming under the bridge.
What style and size of hook is generally used?
I like to use a 3 to 5/o offset hook smaller if I'm in calmer waters and larger if I'm in waters with a little current.
I use the rage shad mostly for this set up.
I've heard of this before but haven't used it yet. Next time out on the kayak I think I will.
It's a good technique but it requires patience so don't give up on it and good luck.
QuoteWhat style and size of hook is generally used?
match the hook to the bait....as small as #6 split shot hooks, up to 5/0 wide gaps for bubba shotting big plastics in weeds.
If I'm targeting suspended bass the yes drop it straight down but bass aint always suspended!
QuoteQuoteWhat style and size of hook is generally used?match the hook to the bait....as small as #6 split shot hooks, up to 5/0 wide gaps for bubba shotting big plastics in weeds.
I've wondered about using larger hooks. The largest I've used has been 1/0.
Strange that I've stuck to the "rules". There have been times I've thought larger hooks might work better.
Drop shotting and fishing Jackall Wacky Jig Heads are the only times I use such small hooks.
I'll use 3/0 to 5/0 hooks for most of my other fishing. Why not for drop shotting as well? Why not indeed. The weight is just to get the bait into the strike zone, fluttering around the top of vegetation, or close to the bottom.
(Smacking myself aside the head.) : :-[
QuoteQuoteQuoteWhat style and size of hook is generally used?match the hook to the bait....as small as #6 split shot hooks, up to 5/0 wide gaps for bubba shotting big plastics in weeds.
I've wondered about using larger hooks. The largest I've used has been 1/0.
Strange that I've stuck to the "rules". There have been times I've thought larger hooks might work better.
Drop shotting and fishing Jackall Wacky Jig Heads are the only times I use such small hooks.
I'll use 3/0 to 5/0 hooks for most of my other fishing. Why not for drop shotting as well? Why not indeed. The weight is just to get the bait into the strike zone, fluttering around the top of vegetation, or close to the bottom.
(Smacking myself aside the head.) : :-[
J Francho explained it on the money it's just that where I fish primarily 3 to 5/0 hooks work great!!!
I'll take this "its just a terminal rig" philosophy further to include an answer about rods, reels, and line....
Match tackle to the cover you are fishing.
QuoteQuoteIf you are not using braid mainline, you are cheating yourself.x2
Since switching to a braid mainline, it is like a whole new world.
I understand the sensitivity in braid is nice, but I don't use braid for anything but musky. I feel like I am tossing rope out there, even with a fluro leader. Confidence thing I guess. It is either 12 pound mono for most situations (have even caught a 43'' musky on it, no leader) or lighter if I am using spinning gear. I know I will get lit up for this, I just don't see the need unless fishing for money. Then maybe it is 20pound big game. To each his own... :-X
QuoteQuoteQuoteIf you are not using braid mainline, you are cheating yourself.lmao. I use 2lb dia braid. The small diameter is just as important to me as the sensitivity.
x2
Since switching to a braid mainline, it is like a whole new world.
I understand the sensitivity in braid is nice, but I don't use braid for anything but musky. I feel like I am tossing rope out there, even with a fluro leader. Confidence thing I guess. It is either 12 pound mono for most situations (have even caught a 43'' musky on it, no leader) or lighter if I am using spinning gear. I know I will get lit up for this, I just don't see the need unless fishing for money. Then maybe it is 20pound big game. To each his own... :-X
QuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteIf you are not using braid mainline, you are cheating yourself.lmao. I use 2lb dia braid. The small diameter is just as important to me as the sensitivity.
x2
Since switching to a braid mainline, it is like a whole new world.
I understand the sensitivity in braid is nice, but I don't use braid for anything but musky. I feel like I am tossing rope out there, even with a fluro leader. Confidence thing I guess. It is either 12 pound mono for most situations (have even caught a 43'' musky on it, no leader) or lighter if I am using spinning gear. I know I will get lit up for this, I just don't see the need unless fishing for money. Then maybe it is 20pound big game. To each his own... :-X
LMAO=small rope.
QuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteIf you are not using braid mainline, you are cheating yourself.lmao. I use 2lb dia braid. The small diameter is just as important to me as the sensitivity.
x2
Since switching to a braid mainline, it is like a whole new world.
I understand the sensitivity in braid is nice, but I don't use braid for anything but musky. I feel like I am tossing rope out there, even with a fluro leader. Confidence thing I guess. It is either 12 pound mono for most situations (have even caught a 43'' musky on it, no leader) or lighter if I am using spinning gear. I know I will get lit up for this, I just don't see the need unless fishing for money. Then maybe it is 20pound big game. To each his own... :-X
LMAO=small rope.
Yep.To each his own. I can't stand to feel like I'm fishing with a rubber band with no sensitivity only mushy feeling. It boils down to the fact that I fish braid mostly for everything. On the flip side, if your used to using mono all the time then braid seems too weird.
Everytime i cast a drop shot more than 10 feet,like to the point where u drag it instead of hoppinbg it,i get snagged AALLLL THE TIME.But my grandpas friend will drag it just as much as the normal drop and pop way and he does really well that way
QuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteQuoteIf you are not using braid mainline, you are cheating yourself.lmao. I use 2lb dia braid. The small diameter is just as important to me as the sensitivity.
x2
Since switching to a braid mainline, it is like a whole new world.
I understand the sensitivity in braid is nice, but I don't use braid for anything but musky. I feel like I am tossing rope out there, even with a fluro leader. Confidence thing I guess. It is either 12 pound mono for most situations (have even caught a 43'' musky on it, no leader) or lighter if I am using spinning gear. I know I will get lit up for this, I just don't see the need unless fishing for money. Then maybe it is 20pound big game. To each his own... :-X
LMAO=small rope.
Yep.To each his own. I can't stand to feel like I'm fishing with a rubber band with no sensitivity only mushy feeling. It boils down to the fact that I fish braid mostly for everything. On the flip side, if your used to using mono all the time then braid seems too weird.
I prefer braid for heavy cover set ups i dont like it for anything else.I have it on my flippin stick,my frog rod, and then i have fluorocarbon on my main baitcast set up,mono on my topwater rod, and mono on my spinning set up
So what kind and size of hook does everyone like to use when D-Sing.
I have been recently using Eagle Claw #8 or #6 Kahle Hooks. I buy them snelled in the packages and just cut the line off.
Otherwise I use Octopus hooks in the smae size mentioned above.
drop shot stand out hooks- work well although I ds only about 5% of my fishing time
Owner Mosquito sz1 for just about everything.
Hmm...
I use these, #2
http://www.gamakatsu.com/catalog/split_shot.htm
8-)
QuoteSo what kind and size of hook does everyone like to use when D-Sing.
Out of those, I prefer the Owners. And yes, I know I've got the hooks under the wrong package for the Gammy's.
QuoteQuoteIf you are not using braid mainline, you are cheating yourself.x2
Since switching to a braid mainline, it is like a whole new world.
Can someone tell me exactly how to tie the braid to the leader? I use braid on some of my spinners and baitcasters, but never use a leader. I usually just use mono for dropshottin...
modified albright. best knot ever!
I use many of the same baits on a dropshot rig as I do on a c-rig, and I use it in much the same way.
I prefer bigger baits, like 10 inch worms and big creature baits. I use a half ounce weight up to a 3/4 ounce weight most of the time. My dropshot rig has 40lb braid as the main line with 20lb flouro as a leader.
I use a pendulum cast to launch it as far as I can, and work over a good distance of structure with it. Its a great way to cover deep structure.
I cast my dropshot about 80% of the time, drag/drift with it 10%, and drop it down verticaly 10%. In my home lake deep water offshore structure is rather scarce, fish relate to inside/outside grass edges,holes in the grass, shorline cover like docks and laydowns, or they suspend in open water around bait.
The water is typicaly clear down to 15' or so, and the bass usually don't tolerate you beeing on top of them. Many times I have located schools of bass "hanging" around the deep weed edge in 12'-14' only to have every thing I offerd them ignored while I was in veiw to them. Once I backed off and begain making long casts to them with my DS rig they were VERY willing to bite. Now in mid-summer when the weeds get thick, and the water gets some color in it, I can get closer and "bubba" shot them on the edge of even flip it right into holes in the thick stuff.
For gear, open water casting/dragging a 7'ML spinning rod w/6 lb fluorocarbon, 1/4 oz sinker works for me out to 20' any deeper I go with 3/8. Most of the time I use a #1 Gamakatsu DS/SS hook and nose hook baits like Zoom tiny flukes, 4" Roboworms, or wacky rig a 3" and 4" Senkos.
When bubba shotting I go with a 7' MH casting rod and 15lb fluoro, 1/0 or larger EWG hooks depending on what bait I am using, and at least a 3/8 sinker, and as much as 3/4 oz. depending on depth and cover thickness. I alsao like the sinker to be tied to the "drop" as well, I use the slip on one for open water, but if you use them in heavy cover you will lose alot of lead. And with the the heavy line/gear I am not worried about breaking the rig off, I can usually rip it free. I have yet to find a bait that won't work, but have settled in on a Zoom mag. finesse worm as my new favorite.
So I know that using Fluorocarbon with braid gives you the ultimate sensitivity.
How sensitive is a setup when using braid and mono.
I know with mono and braid youll lose some sensitivity,just how different is it than using braid and flourcarbon?
So when drop-shotting the bait is never hooked Texas style?
If not, why is that?
I don't see why you couldn't texas rig it if the conditions warrant that type of approach. I typically just nose hook the bait.
As far as casting goes, I like to cast it into deeper water while my partner pounds the bank with a crankbait or spinnerbait.
Andy Taylor,
The bait is not rigged Texas style because you want the bait presentation to be as parallel to the bottom as possible, This is not to say that you can't rig it T-style and have it work for you as huntfishspokane suggested.
Hope this helps be safe and have fun.
How do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position?
Redtail,
I normally will use a Palomar knot with a 2 to 8 foot leader to attach my weight at the bottom this lets the hook stand straight out when the line has the slack pulled out of it.
There is more info on the drop-shot in "fishing articles" at the header of this web-site that can be very useful to you.
QuoteSo when drop-shotting the bait is never hooked Texas style?If not, why is that?
These hooks work great for t-rigging worms on a drop shot. I generally use a smaller, open hook, like Gamakatsu Split Shot/Drop Shot or Owner Mosquito hooks, but if your bait is getting fouled by weeds, these work well.
Owner Down Shot hooks:
QuoteHow do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position?
Tie a palomar knot with a long tag end. Run the tag end back through the top of the hook's eye, and gently pull on the tag so the knot rotates a bit.
QuoteQuoteHow do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position?Tie a palomar knot with a long tag end. Run the tag end back through the top of the hook's eye, and gently pull on the tag so the knot rotates a bit.
100% effective!
8-)
QuoteQuoteHow do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position?Tie a palomar knot with a long tag end. Run the tag end back through the top of the hook's eye, and gently pull on the tag so the knot rotates a bit.
Ive been old to ALWAYS try to eliminate ANY twists in the knot when tying it. I think this may create weak spots. Not sure if its true,but its a rule of thumb for me either way.
I am shorebound also and on a particularly long walk, lost my last DS weight on a snag. Tied on a 3/8ths oz skirted jig I had cut off before as my drop shot weight. Naturally, being a banker, use a horizontal retrieve and that afternoon caught an equal number of fish on the plastic up the line and the jig.
Twitch
QuoteQuoteQuoteHow do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position?Tie a palomar knot with a long tag end. Run the tag end back through the top of the hook's eye, and gently pull on the tag so the knot rotates a bit.
Ive been old to ALWAYS try to eliminate ANY twists in the knot when tying it. I think this may create weak spots. Not sure if its true,but its a rule of thumb for me either way.
If you are using fluorocarbon, then yes, the knot must be tied perfectly. If there is a kink or twist before the hook, start over, or it will likely fail.
QuoteI am shorebound also and on a particularly long walk, lost my last DS weight on a snag. Tied on a 3/8ths oz skirted jig I had cut off before as my drop shot weight. Naturally, being a banker, use a horizontal retrieve and that afternoon caught an equal number of fish on the plastic up the line and the jig.Twitch
That is when I usually Trig the dropshot bait. I dont like using the small mosquito hooks when I have a jig or tube on the bottom as a weight. Hooksets are the reason for this. If you hit them hard enough to set the jig hook, you are usually going to miss them/ tear out the mosquito hook. If you do a reel set, you wont get them if they ate the jig. Step up to an EWG hook on the d-shot and you can hit them hard enough to set either hook. I usually only run the bubba shot when I am in desperation mode.
Line twist just comes along with the technique, but there are ways to help minimize how much twist occurs. The special sinker used for drop shotting is one way to limit line twist, but two more things you can do is, when your done fishing for the day let out a bunch of line and ride around with it running through the water, another thing to limit line twist is to reel up slowly when retrieving to recast. Most line twist actually comes from reeling the bait back up.
QuoteQuoteHow do you tie the hook on the line so it is facing upright in the correct position?Tie a palomar knot with a long tag end. Run the tag end back through the top of the hook's eye, and gently pull on the tag so the knot rotates a bit.
x2
Tried and true method. Works great everytime.